I don't do a lot of metal work, but when I do, I get all amped up on 4 or 5 of your videos and I bang it out in no time lol! Another great video, Fitz! Thanks again for helping us out!
Great job! I like your no nonsense approach to getting things done! Good point about all the seams being bare metal on old vehicles, I've cut apart a few vehicles as old as the 1920s where the entire outside of the vehicle was surface rust and the bottom 6" was rotted away, but the inner seams were still bare metal. I remember pulling the wood structure out of a 29 Plymouth and the wood had fit so tight to the body that the metal underneath was sealed off and perfectly preserved, after a few minutes of being exposed to air a set of fingerprints from someone on the assembly line in 1929 had flash rusted into the metal.
I think the first Fitzee video I ever watched you were putting cab corners on a Square Body . I still have that project ahead of me . Lot's of great content since that one !
I'm looking at a lot of sheetmetal repair on a 1987 Square I just bought. I've got cowl, core support, lower windshield corners and all the other usual rust spots (fenders, cab corners, floor) to repair. So I would love to see any other repairs to do to this truck Fitzee! Thanks for this video and the encouragement therein.
Thanks again Tony, I'm a big fan of all the 'little'repair jobs on firewalls and chassis/frame. I've got a lot of exposed firewall repairs to do and this is pure gold to helping me make them look right. Cheers!
"Get it nice and hot, just like that, Owww!" You make this fun, Tony. Some day when I grow up (I'm already older than you), maybe I'll be half the body man that you are. I'd be happy with that. Thanks for the tips!
i am restoring a 82 like that same spots are rusted i live in north east lots of rust perfect time for this video thank you i been here since the begining
Your video gives me hope. Bought a pretty nice '76 C20 Camper Special and after buying it found that the firewall is roached on it. Enjoying it for now but I know in its future will be firewall repair. Thank you!
another great teaching video. I got one of these square bodies, 1978 vintage wisconsin truck loaded with rust. Will be using your teaching methods. Thank you for education.
I'M SO GLAD YOU ARE BACK ON DOING SQUARE BODY FABRICATION.... PLEASE MAKE A VIDEO FOR EVERYTHING YOU DO TO THIS TRUCK.... IT WILL BE WELL RECEIVED!!!! THANKS FOR ALL YOU DO BROTHER.... PEOPLE LIKE YOU ARE WHAT IS MISSING IN THIS LUNATIC WORLD THAT WE FIND OURSELVES IN....
I only had to do some work on this. It's completed now. This was all I video. I love to get one that is ruff and make it whole agian. Been trying to get my hands on a cab to do this with
@@fitzeesfabrications I wish you lived close to Tennessee, I literally have one on a cab dolly 5 feet away from me that I needed to use the roof skin from.... If you were closer I would give it to you...
love videos like this, always is discouraging when you see the easy areas being done on other channels, it is this kind of stuff that you never see. Loved every minute of it.
To get in small places I bought a Katsu mini angle grinder off ebay, about £26.. UK money, it's excellent plus you can buy a roloc adapter for it that fits the screw on small sanding discs, works fantastic, the adapters are £7 again off ebay. Excellent video as always Fitz!
Great video. Just finished repairing this same issue on my 1969 Chevy. 5 hours before this video was posted. I used your "tips" from previous videos and they were "good". Keeping up your great work
Again…👏👏👏👏👏👏. Bravo!!! You do make it look a whole lot easier than it is but you make all of us watching say” well i can do that” .. A great teacher doing great work
Oh Fitzee, you went and done it now! You know how easy those old Chevy's are to work on. Well spraying that Ford Gray paint on there, the next time they try finding a starter or something they'll never get the right part!!! LOL
Good tip using a piece of scrap as a handle,an older guy taught me that trick a long time ago and it's priceless. I keep a bunch of wire coat hangers on hand for those moments.
I was doing a little research on whether or not its ok to do a lap joint on a firewall. So these trucks came factory with lap joints on the firewall and that is also the part that rusted out. ok, but at the same time that truck is 30 years old and that firewall is really not that bad, well bad enough to repair the rust holes in a restoration yes, but like if that was my work truck or 4x4, I would of just left it like that. thanks for sharing what you are doing.
It's not a matter of being "too old" (you are younger than me), it's a case of doing things in the most convenient way that causes the least amount of discomfort and makes the job as easy as possible for the best outcome.
The idea of breaking a job down into many pieces , I believe escapes most guys. I too, suffer from that same issue at times. Then I sit , study it & think, "WWFD"? = "What Would Fitzee Do"? And after thinking through it, a solution appears. Another great tutorial for us . Thank You for sharing your ways , & expertise . Stay Real. Rick
Never tire of your videos Fitzee!👌👌👌 I used a cup wire wheel on my grinder to remove the underseal and seam sealer from my car and it worked a treat, didn't clog up at all.
You are a true wizard! Not only that you can make everything with metal, but your videos gave me the confidence to start fixing my ´76 dodge aspens rust issues. I'm learning as i work with it, but your videos have taught me thing or ten too, so it is a little easier. So thank you from Finland!
Thanks for the tips. As always your your videos are concise & very easy to understand. I have a '69 Ford F-250 that needs some rust repair & some of the body mounts underneath the cab do not seem to be available anywhere, so watching you make these parts in some of your other videos is going to be very helpful when I get to that point. Have a super nice day!
Fitzee, Your the Man! I 've been putting off repairing rear quarters on my Lincoln project so I decided to watch a couple of your videos yesterday on how to do it without all the expensive tools and I'm proud to say I have one side done already today using your tricks for making wheel well flanges and persevering when it gets overwhelming, and pretty soon you are done! Just like you said 👍
Great tips! I need to make 2 small 2x3 patches in a VW engine fan shroud so watching you slide the repair patch under and scribing the edges is just what I will do to make the patch pieces fit. I will also tack on that piece in the middle to help line things up like you did. I love to watch your videos. Very helpful!
Hi. Another great session. Thanks. This one is very timely for me and my 280z built. I have built a new frame rails and floor pan and just cut out the foot/firewall area with all those contours and overlapping panels. It's been a real creative puzzle getting up down left right what needs to go what doesn't and fitting it all back in together. Some of your previous notes about thin metal and and connecting different grade metals has been informative as well and I think I'm putting all that together with just this one area.
I just finished this job on my personal 1976 K20. What a job. I did a lot of welding under the dash. But I also cut good steel off the front side to help with access. Good Tip!
Good evening Fitzy, I do like your 45 degree cut that you demonstrated. It really makes for a tight fit. Another tip that I noticed you used was the tac puller tool. Really clever and innovative. Thanks for an excellent video. As always, very informative. Take care and good luck.
Great video Fitz. These are the sort of repairs I gave had to do on my van of late. Very much the same process actually thought I was ‘cutting corners’(literally). But to be honest when completed I had done s pretty decent job. I felt a bit overwhelmed (you mention this) so can relate to what you said. In the end it was(and will be) a case of breaking things down. Heating up Metalwork beforehand before painting is also something I have done, it’s getting cold and damp here in Scotland. If I’m applying several layers it’s my ‘go to’ technique to cut down drying time. But sure where I heard of that certainly wasn’t an original thought(maybe you mentioned it in passing before?) Things like that ‘stick with me’. Thanks for another super video… I will be ‘sticking around’!! Cheers from Scotland!!
For removing undercoating I use a needle scaler. I just buy the better of Two that they sell at harbor freight. I paid extra for the warranty for a year and I finally broke it after stripping the bottom of 2 and 1/2 first gen Camaros. Took it back and got a new one. Still working now. Around $60.00 with warranty and taxes. It should be used at an angle and great care especially around edges and seams
Great job....I also use heat to "force" paint in my barely heated shop. I heat the metal as you do but I also heat my paint can with a heat gun...works really well! My shop gets down to about 40 degrees F in the dead of winter. Thanks for the video...really appreciate it! Mike 🇨🇦🍁👍
Did your quality control Forman approve of your repair at the end of the job Fitzee? 😂great video ! Thank you again for taking the time to put these together for us!🇨🇦
Another fantastic video, Tony!!! I had to remove yards of undercoating this summer toward restoring my GTO. I heated and scraped it all and nearly lost my mind over it. Why didn't you give us the "zip blade" tip 6 months ago??? LOL. Anyway, thanks for another great video. And, as always, it's great to see inspector Peanut keeping your shop in order!
Back when I was in college my brother and I would fix our cars using a spot welder to attach patch panels. The panels would overlap. I would put in a line of spot welds then use a propane touch and solder to seal the seam. The solder would suck in just like soldering copper pipe to seal the seam.
Fitzee great video as always.I have a tip for you , use a good quality red permanent marker you can see the scribe lines so much better,I used black/blue permanent makers for years and still do when I drive over my red 😂
I don't do a lot of metal work, but when I do, I get all amped up on 4 or 5 of your videos and I bang it out in no time lol! Another great video, Fitz! Thanks again for helping us out!
Your comment made me laugh because I do the same!
Ahhhh, Fitzee prep for Firewall and Cowl repairs on my 62 C10....
Thanks very much!
The god of Steel the don of dings the remedy for rust.cant get enough of THE MAN FITZ
He’s phenomenal
every curb of the body has a fitzee tip. as always thanks for sharing.
I have to do this on my 83' Blazer and you made me feel much better about starting the project. Thank you.
simple and straight forward explanations and techniques!
Great job! I like your no nonsense approach to getting things done! Good point about all the seams being bare metal on old vehicles, I've cut apart a few vehicles as old as the 1920s where the entire outside of the vehicle was surface rust and the bottom 6" was rotted away, but the inner seams were still bare metal. I remember pulling the wood structure out of a 29 Plymouth and the wood had fit so tight to the body that the metal underneath was sealed off and perfectly preserved, after a few minutes of being exposed to air a set of fingerprints from someone on the assembly line in 1929 had flash rusted into the metal.
I think the first Fitzee video I ever watched you were putting cab corners on a Square Body . I still have that project ahead of me . Lot's of great content since that one !
Thanks Fritzee! I have a square body that has a rusted fire wall from side to side, I’ll keep you posted! Thanks again!!
Cool idea with heating before painting! Great as always. We learn something new everytime. Thank you very much!
I've always heated stuff first when doing bike bits dries quickly no dust to stick and not hanging up in the way 😀
@@Jabba.1 This is so obvious. I should have done that decades ago.
I'm looking at a lot of sheetmetal repair on a 1987 Square I just bought. I've got cowl, core support, lower windshield corners and all the other usual rust spots (fenders, cab corners, floor) to repair. So I would love to see any other repairs to do to this truck Fitzee! Thanks for this video and the encouragement therein.
Specially the floor braces above the cab mounts.
Thanks again Tony, I'm a big fan of all the 'little'repair jobs on firewalls and chassis/frame. I've got a lot of exposed firewall repairs to do and this is pure gold to helping me make them look right. Cheers!
Beautiful work as always, love the old square bodies!
"Get it nice and hot, just like that, Owww!" You make this fun, Tony. Some day when I grow up (I'm already older than you), maybe I'll be half the body man that you are. I'd be happy with that. Thanks for the tips!
i am restoring a 82 like that same spots are rusted i live in north east lots of rust perfect time for this video thank you i been here since the begining
Your video gives me hope. Bought a pretty nice '76 C20 Camper Special and after buying it found that the firewall is roached on it. Enjoying it for now but I know in its future will be firewall repair. Thank you!
another great teaching video. I got one of these square bodies, 1978 vintage wisconsin truck loaded with rust. Will be using your teaching methods. Thank you for education.
Ah yes Wisconsin! Where even the cow paths are paved and salted in winter! …native of Milwaukee.
I'M SO GLAD YOU ARE BACK ON DOING SQUARE BODY FABRICATION.... PLEASE MAKE A VIDEO FOR EVERYTHING YOU DO TO THIS TRUCK.... IT WILL BE WELL RECEIVED!!!! THANKS FOR ALL YOU DO BROTHER.... PEOPLE LIKE YOU ARE WHAT IS MISSING IN THIS LUNATIC WORLD THAT WE FIND OURSELVES IN....
I only had to do some work on this. It's completed now. This was all I video. I love to get one that is ruff and make it whole agian. Been trying to get my hands on a cab to do this with
@@fitzeesfabrications I wish you lived close to Tennessee, I literally have one on a cab dolly 5 feet away from me that I needed to use the roof skin from.... If you were closer I would give it to you...
Lol....it's 00:39am and I was just about to go to bed, I guess that's postponed for a good half hour😂.
Thanks for the coat hanger trick, I used one yesterday to replace a small panel on the rusted out c pillar near the drip rail on a Bronco.
I am working on a 77 Chev P/U. This helped a lot! Thanks
Another wonderful video to show in the shop
love videos like this, always is discouraging when you see the easy areas being done on other channels, it is this kind of stuff that you never see. Loved every minute of it.
What a job fitzee watching you build these gives one courage if they follow you and how you repair panels we can do it also thumbs up 👍
Always nice work sir!!!!
To get in small places I bought a Katsu mini angle grinder off ebay, about £26.. UK money, it's excellent plus you can buy a roloc adapter for it that fits the screw on small sanding discs, works fantastic, the adapters are £7 again off ebay.
Excellent video as always Fitz!
Think you posted this on the Facebook page. Very good tip. Neat little grinder. Got to look into one
Fritzee, with each viewing of your videos, I learn something new. Thank you very much for your education.
Cheers 🍻
Spot-on about where all square body chev’s rust, experience must have taught you for sure 👍🏻❤️🏴☠️🎥💯%🇨🇦👌🇺🇸🌎
I done my share of these. Lol
Fitzee, You are a 'great' teacher. Thank you so much for these videos.... Phillip Hall
Great video, you are a very good teacher !
The best how to videos ever a real result based common sense based approach to auto body metal repair done right 👍
I am your apprentice. When I am in my garage working on cars, I use your tips a lot. Thanks for sharing. Edgewood Washington State USA.
Fitzee's Technique's are So simple amongst the chaos of Restoration. Breaking it down to the E=MC'2.
Thanks for making a troublesome job easy to do. Keep them coming.
I've never done any work like this before but now I'm replacing sections in a '79 vw bug convertible thanks mostly to your videos.
Great video. Just finished repairing this same issue on my 1969 Chevy. 5 hours before this video was posted. I used your "tips" from previous videos and they were "good". Keeping up your great work
Again…👏👏👏👏👏👏. Bravo!!! You do make it look a whole lot easier than it is but you make all of us watching say” well i can do that” .. A great teacher doing great work
Looks good as always keep up the good work.
Fitzee keeping it simple, than again you make everything look simple.
The tips are always good Tony ! Thanks
Oh Fitzee, you went and done it now! You know how easy those old Chevy's are to work on. Well spraying that Ford Gray paint on there, the next time they try finding a starter or something they'll never get the right part!!! LOL
Amazing work!!!! Thanks for the tips!!!
Always great advice. You have made metal work fun for me. I really enjoy fabricating now. Thanks so Mitch!
True craftsman totally jealous of your skills, but so glad that you are sharing, may be future generations appreciate your efforts, sadley
Tips are always good!
Thank you Sir!
Wonderful job as usual, Tony. I look forward to each video. Thank you.
Well young man I have to watch every damn thing you do and love it all .More please !
Another great lesson thanks Fitzee
The tips were good! Like always “Great Job Tony “
Good tip using a piece of scrap as a handle,an older guy taught me that trick a long time ago and it's priceless. I keep a bunch of wire coat hangers on hand for those moments.
Another fascinating and tip-packed episode. Thank you Fitzee
I was doing a little research on whether or not its ok to do a lap joint on a firewall. So these trucks came factory with lap joints on the firewall and that is also the part that rusted out. ok, but at the same time that truck is 30 years old and that firewall is really not that bad, well bad enough to repair the rust holes in a restoration yes, but like if that was my work truck or 4x4, I would of just left it like that. thanks for sharing what you are doing.
Another good one. I've been working on my 68 GMC because of your videos thank you
This is a very good lesson on how to do this . Thank you!
Nice job as always Fitz!
Looks great ! Gets me motivated to weld my stuff
I always learn so much from your videos. Thanks for taking the time to make these.
Brilliant Tony. Tips are always good. Wish I could double like!! Thank you.
some many tip today, Thanks ! thanks for the lesson, bravo
It's not a matter of being "too old" (you are younger than me), it's a case of doing things in the most convenient way that causes the least amount of discomfort and makes the job as easy as possible for the best outcome.
And the By's said they couldn't put the bottom back in der with an AC welder...I call bull!.. Sweet job Fitzee!
The usual, nice and simple plus very well explained. Great video mate.
Great lesson; thank you very much.
Great video Tony! I always pick up a fresh tip or two. Glad to have found you sir. Keep on!!
The idea of breaking a job down into many pieces , I believe escapes most guys. I too, suffer from that same issue at times. Then I sit , study it & think, "WWFD"? = "What Would Fitzee Do"? And after thinking through it, a solution appears.
Another great tutorial for us . Thank You for sharing your ways , & expertise .
Stay Real.
Rick
ANOTHER VERY GOOD, INFORMATION-PACKED VIDEO. MANY THANKS!
Excellent Method & End Result... Nice To See Happy Cat Doing Well..
Never tire of your videos Fitzee!👌👌👌
I used a cup wire wheel on my grinder to remove the underseal and seam sealer from my car and it worked a treat, didn't clog up at all.
You are a true wizard! Not only that you can make everything with metal, but your videos gave me the confidence to start fixing my ´76 dodge aspens rust issues. I'm learning as i work with it, but your videos have taught me thing or ten too, so it is a little easier. So thank you from Finland!
Keep the great video coming...have learned much from you already..
As usual another great video and useful tips, especially that heating the metal trick, I’m in Ontario and that’ll come in handy thanks again Tony
Thanks for the tips. As always your your videos are concise & very easy to understand. I have a '69 Ford F-250 that needs some rust repair & some of the body mounts underneath the cab do not seem to be available anywhere, so watching you make these parts in some of your other videos is going to be very helpful when I get to that point. Have a super nice day!
Fitzee, Your the Man! I 've been putting off repairing rear quarters on my Lincoln project so I decided to watch a couple of your videos yesterday on how to do it without all the expensive tools and I'm proud to say I have one side done already today using your tricks for making wheel well flanges and persevering when it gets overwhelming, and pretty soon you are done! Just like you said 👍
Awesome. I've been wondering how to fix this type of rust on my square body. I didn't realize that it was bare metal between the seams. Thanks Fitzee!
Great teacher. Thank you
Great tips! I need to make 2 small 2x3 patches in a VW engine fan shroud so watching you slide the repair patch under and scribing the edges is just what I will do to make the patch pieces fit. I will also tack on that piece in the middle to help line things up like you did. I love to watch your videos. Very helpful!
Another great video ,nice job as usual
Hi. Another great session. Thanks. This one is very timely for me and my 280z built. I have built a new frame rails and floor pan and just cut out the foot/firewall area with all those contours and overlapping panels. It's been a real creative puzzle getting up down left right what needs to go what doesn't and fitting it all back in together. Some of your previous notes about thin metal and and connecting different grade metals has been informative as well and I think I'm putting all that together with just this one area.
I just finished this job on my personal 1976 K20. What a job. I did a lot of welding under the dash. But I also cut good steel off the front side to help with access. Good Tip!
Nice work Fitzee! I had a '74 Jimmy in '82 . Even 40 years ago it was half gone from the door handles down. I wish I still had it.
Great work again
I like your channel its like inspiration for my channel to remove some rust on one of my cars...
Another great video as always
Good evening Fitzy, I do like your 45 degree cut that you demonstrated. It really makes for a tight fit. Another tip that I noticed you used was the tac puller tool. Really clever and innovative. Thanks for an excellent video. As always, very informative. Take care and good luck.
Cat had to come inspect the work I'd say it's approved 🤣👌
Great video Fitz. These are the sort of repairs I gave had to do on my van of late. Very much the same process actually thought I was ‘cutting corners’(literally). But to be honest when completed I had done s pretty decent job. I felt a bit overwhelmed (you mention this) so can relate to what you said. In the end it was(and will be) a case of breaking things down. Heating up
Metalwork beforehand before painting is also something I have done, it’s getting cold and damp here in Scotland. If I’m applying several layers it’s my ‘go to’ technique to cut down drying time. But sure where I heard of that certainly wasn’t an original thought(maybe you mentioned it in passing before?) Things like that ‘stick with me’. Thanks for another super video…
I will be ‘sticking around’!!
Cheers from Scotland!!
For removing undercoating I use a needle scaler. I just buy the better of
Two that they sell at harbor freight. I paid extra for the warranty for a year and I finally broke it after stripping the bottom of 2 and 1/2 first gen Camaros. Took it back and got a new one. Still working now. Around $60.00 with warranty and taxes. It should be used at an angle and great care especially around edges and seams
Excellent job
Great job....I also use heat to "force" paint in my barely heated shop. I heat the metal as you do but I also heat my paint can with a heat gun...works really well!
My shop gets down to about 40 degrees F in the dead of winter.
Thanks for the video...really appreciate it!
Mike 🇨🇦🍁👍
Did your quality control Forman approve of your repair at the end of the job Fitzee? 😂great video ! Thank you again for taking the time to put these together for us!🇨🇦
You make it look too easy. Wish I had your talent.
Great tips mate! 👍😎🇦🇺
Keep up the great content
I use the heating trick too, I think the paint bonds better too.
Thanks for the clear explanation.
Fitzee, the tips are good. I'll stick around, for sure.
Another fantastic video, Tony!!! I had to remove yards of undercoating this summer toward restoring my GTO. I heated and scraped it all and nearly lost my mind over it. Why didn't you give us the "zip blade" tip 6 months ago??? LOL. Anyway, thanks for another great video. And, as always, it's great to see inspector Peanut keeping your shop in order!
Cool job 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Back when I was in college my brother and I would fix our cars using a spot welder to attach patch panels. The panels would overlap. I would put in a line of spot welds then use a propane touch and solder to seal the seam. The solder would suck in just like soldering copper pipe to seal the seam.
Very familiar with this technique. Done it a long time ago. Lead is expensive today
Fitzee great video as always.I have a tip for you , use a good quality red permanent marker you can see the scribe lines so much better,I used black/blue permanent makers for years and still do when I drive over my red 😂
Great job!