Yes, absolutely. I have been wanting to see this teardown for ever. Well, from the time some where back longer than I can remember 👍👍😺😃🤔 Thanks again Build Break Fix Guy.
yeah I had like 20- people in last month! Be like hey make video on splitting bottom end! So i figured why not have to tear this one apart anyhow. yeah many get scared off to attempt it. You see all crazy stuff TH-cam with it you can't blame them! Saw one guy spend 15 minutes painfully trying to split one with the crank and clutch shaft in at same time in video while back lol
@@BuildBreakFix yea nobody uses them that’s why it makes no sense to make the #3 cause the average joe that buys these kits is only goin to have a standard #2 bit. They did same thing on mine too where they changed all the screws you can see to Allen heads but the one’s behind the clutch where 99% of people won’t see the left them Phillips heads , so dumb/cheap.
Another great informative video I didn't know about the ball bearing idea I have a tool Kevin's shop made for me punches out the clutch shaft just does it from the sprocket side you just showed me another way and what's funny is I did the same thing with my second phantom bottom case and changed the piston rings bearing and crank bearings to SKF when I punched out the clutch basket as you did same thing they bragged about using Allen head screws and under the clutch basket same Phillips and they weren't even tight one had a lock washer needles to say I had to change them out and crank and clutch bearings thanks for the advice on the Allen wrenches didn't know that I thought the opposite the dark ones were the harden steel ones about the phantom she still purrs like a kitten lol ride safe brother
It's the actual purpose of the hole in the puller to be used with the clutch ball bearing. Literally in the instructions that some come with when you buy a new engine! Under how to use kit gear puller lol
Nice little trick with the ball bearing. I didn't know about that. Question, i believe i seen in video from another channel, but anyways he was saying that you can put inserts in that case stud holes and it will line right up with an ms381. Don't know if the bolt holes are different from the saw jugs, and I can't seem to find the video now, but i think he also said the 381 had a different stroke as well ... 🤔 Thanks for the video.
Yeah was my video LOL Yes you use 8mm to 6mm "Stainless Steel" Thread Adaptor! Not helix w/e crap spring things like most use! They don't hold! Then you use ( Allen Key type 6M x 15mm long) bolts to attach the jug! Works very well! don't cheap out on the hardware for that! They will loosen up, break, strip or rip out! you will have more headaches than you bargained for lol! Thread Adaptors: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09MPZ5J88/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Bolts: www.amazon.com/M6-1-0-Socket-Screws-Stainless-Machine/dp/B07HR6PPX8/ref=sxin_15_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.14a246c3-7a62-40bf-bdd0-5ac67c2a1913%3Aamzn1.sym.14a246c3-7a62-40bf-bdd0-5ac67c2a1913&crid=7T9TMRAIM3AT&cv_ct_cx=6m%2B15mm%2Ballen&keywords=6m%2B15mm%2Ballen&pd_rd_i=B07HR6PPX8&pd_rd_r=7fc976e9-0f4e-4807-ac93-e9aa857fc697&pd_rd_w=l2fvN&pd_rd_wg=6fSjh&pf_rd_p=14a246c3-7a62-40bf-bdd0-5ac67c2a1913&pf_rd_r=YQ8JJGM6XTC0QTV11V0D&qid=1674734535&s=industrial&sprefix=6m%2B15mm%2Ballen%2Cindustrial%2C87&sr=1-1-a73d1c8c-2fd2-4f19-aa41-2df022bcb241-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzMVpSTE5OWFpCRkxHJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUExMDM3MTQ0M0E4REFDRjFVRzg3UCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTQ4NjgwMUxQSkNENk84Q0MzVSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3NlYXJjaF90aGVtYXRpYyZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1
@@BuildBreakFix i have some m8 to m6 stainless inserts, so i guess im good on that part. I already did a ms460/ yd hybrid but i haven't taken it out for a spin yet. It appears i could use an ms360 piston with my yd100 bottom end. I have the ms460 cylinder and piston on the zmn100 rod. Actually its almost perfect, as far as my eyes see, with the exception of seeing about .5mm of light at TDC in the intake port . Im using ultra grey, no base gasket. Squish was like 1.9mm if i remember correctly, and at BDC the piston was a little low, but almost flush with the bottom of the exhaust port. Probably .5mm below. Its non reed with a PZ20 as well. Really all i would need to do is hook a fuel line up and fill it with fuel and i could run it right now. I wonder if its best to wait and get the ms380 piston? 🤔 And yeah it would be so much easier if i were to build another saw engine and just be able to slap on the ms460 jug right on the bottom of the 110cc with only inserts. ☺️ - and also fill the transfers of coarse...
ok so why did you break it all apart was there a reason for it ? just to check it all out or was there another reason ? i noticed they were smart enough to remove the seal on the bearings so oil could get in there on them sealed bearings .
I gave up. I can't been able to find a puller to separate the motor. I have a crank puller for pedal crank, but the threads don't match. Bought another online, which might have worked, but the threads were offset inside from the edge of the tool so it couldn't reach the threads on the motor. Bought another tool, but it wouldn't come apart. Tried to get a puller tool from AutoZone, but threads were too big on it too. Couldn't get work from Bikeberry on the proper tool to use. taking the bike back to mountain bike status. May do a 4 stroke beach cruiser in the future.
Great video except you stopped 2 pieces short of tearing it all down. There is still one bearing stuck on the crankshaft and one on the clutch shaft, and that is my main concern when splitting these. How to get those off of there when that happens...
USe 2x 1/2 wrenches! on the crank bearing! Use them like a pry bar on each side of the bearing. the Jaws have a round edge on each side and as you use them like a pry bar it acts as a pivot point o pop the bearing off! you have to put on on both side and do it! Clutch shaft bearing is easy! Just put the whole thing like vise! so bearing resting on the vise jaws and just knock the shaft through! The bearing on my clutch shaft actually pulled off by hand! I will do a video of the one on the crank today!
Ha! I didn't hit my finger actually! My wife is half paralyzed! She has people helping her to get moving it again. One of them almost dropped her! So I grabbed my wife and her wheelchair as they were doing down. Got her into the wheel chair before she could fall! Which was crushing my other hand at the time under the bar of the seat she was just slammed down lol I don't think there is enough time in a year to edit all the censor beeps for that clip 🍺🤣👍
Thanks I'm familiar with removing the inner seal on the crankshaft bearings. Was just wondering if both bearings were the same part number thank you very much.
Yes, absolutely. I have been wanting to see this teardown for ever. Well, from the time some where back longer than I can remember 👍👍😺😃🤔 Thanks again Build Break Fix Guy.
yeah lot of people been asking me lol!
Helpful video for sure....Great for someone to watch before attempting their 1st tear down.
yeah I had like 20- people in last month! Be like hey make video on splitting bottom end! So i figured why not have to tear this one apart anyhow. yeah many get scared off to attempt it. You see all crazy stuff TH-cam with it you can't blame them! Saw one guy spend 15 minutes painfully trying to split one with the crank and clutch shaft in at same time in video while back lol
EASY HE SAYS...LOL COULDN'T I just throw it on the floor a few times to get it apart lol 😆 love your videos 🫠👍🔨⚒️🔧⚙️
lol youtube at 5:30am! Um hum...!
#3 Phillips bit is proper size for any o the Phillips head screws on every kit, most people don’t realize it but a #2 bit will strip them.
Ah you know never even thought to try a #3 ! though don't think even have one lol never use em! gonna have to give that a go! 😉
@@BuildBreakFix yea nobody uses them that’s why it makes no sense to make the #3 cause the average joe that buys these kits is only goin to have a standard #2 bit. They did same thing on mine too where they changed all the screws you can see to Allen heads but the one’s behind the clutch where 99% of people won’t see the left them Phillips heads , so dumb/cheap.
@@JMB676 omg you have to see that pe19 NIBBI carb i just tossed up lol so nice omg...
Thanks for the video my man 💪!! 💪
thanks! 🍺😁👍
Another great informative video I didn't know about the ball bearing idea I have a tool Kevin's shop made for me punches out the clutch shaft just does it from the sprocket side you just showed me another way and what's funny is I did the same thing with my second phantom bottom case and changed the piston rings bearing and crank bearings to SKF when I punched out the clutch basket as you did same thing they bragged about using Allen head screws and under the clutch basket same Phillips and they weren't even tight one had a lock washer needles to say I had to change them out and crank and clutch bearings thanks for the advice on the Allen wrenches didn't know that I thought the opposite the dark ones were the harden steel ones about the phantom she still purrs like a kitten lol ride safe brother
It's the actual purpose of the hole in the puller to be used with the clutch ball bearing. Literally in the instructions that some come with when you buy a new engine! Under how to use kit gear puller lol
Nice little trick with the ball bearing. I didn't know about that.
Question, i believe i seen in video from another channel, but anyways he was saying that you can put inserts in that case stud holes and it will line right up with an ms381. Don't know if the bolt holes are different from the saw jugs, and I can't seem to find the video now, but i think he also said the 381 had a different stroke as well ... 🤔
Thanks for the video.
Yeah was my video LOL Yes you use 8mm to 6mm "Stainless Steel" Thread Adaptor! Not helix w/e crap spring things like most use! They don't hold! Then you use ( Allen Key type 6M x 15mm long) bolts to attach the jug! Works very well! don't cheap out on the hardware for that! They will loosen up, break, strip or rip out! you will have more headaches than you bargained for lol!
Thread Adaptors: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09MPZ5J88/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Bolts: www.amazon.com/M6-1-0-Socket-Screws-Stainless-Machine/dp/B07HR6PPX8/ref=sxin_15_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.14a246c3-7a62-40bf-bdd0-5ac67c2a1913%3Aamzn1.sym.14a246c3-7a62-40bf-bdd0-5ac67c2a1913&crid=7T9TMRAIM3AT&cv_ct_cx=6m%2B15mm%2Ballen&keywords=6m%2B15mm%2Ballen&pd_rd_i=B07HR6PPX8&pd_rd_r=7fc976e9-0f4e-4807-ac93-e9aa857fc697&pd_rd_w=l2fvN&pd_rd_wg=6fSjh&pf_rd_p=14a246c3-7a62-40bf-bdd0-5ac67c2a1913&pf_rd_r=YQ8JJGM6XTC0QTV11V0D&qid=1674734535&s=industrial&sprefix=6m%2B15mm%2Ballen%2Cindustrial%2C87&sr=1-1-a73d1c8c-2fd2-4f19-aa41-2df022bcb241-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzMVpSTE5OWFpCRkxHJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUExMDM3MTQ0M0E4REFDRjFVRzg3UCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTQ4NjgwMUxQSkNENk84Q0MzVSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3NlYXJjaF90aGVtYXRpYyZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1
@@BuildBreakFix thank you! ☺️
@@BuildBreakFix i have some m8 to m6 stainless inserts, so i guess im good on that part.
I already did a ms460/ yd hybrid but i haven't taken it out for a spin yet.
It appears i could use an ms360 piston with my yd100 bottom end. I have the ms460 cylinder and piston on the zmn100 rod.
Actually its almost perfect, as far as my eyes see, with the exception of seeing about .5mm of light at TDC in the intake port . Im using ultra grey, no base gasket.
Squish was like 1.9mm if i remember correctly, and at BDC the piston was a little low, but almost flush with the bottom of the exhaust port. Probably .5mm below.
Its non reed with a PZ20 as well.
Really all i would need to do is hook a fuel line up and fill it with fuel and i could run it right now.
I wonder if its best to wait and get the ms380 piston? 🤔
And yeah it would be so much easier if i were to build another saw engine and just be able to slap on the ms460 jug right on the bottom of the 110cc with only inserts. ☺️
- and also fill the transfers of coarse...
ok so why did you break it all apart was there a reason for it ? just to check it all out or was there another reason ? i noticed they were smart enough to remove the seal on the bearings so oil could get in there on them sealed bearings .
Crank is the wrong type! Needs to be changed out to correct type! Wrong stroke length! 37.2 in it! needs to be 40! so all ports open up correctly!
I gave up. I can't been able to find a puller to separate the motor. I have a crank puller for pedal crank, but the threads don't match. Bought another online, which might have worked, but the threads were offset inside from the edge of the tool so it couldn't reach the threads on the motor. Bought another tool, but it wouldn't come apart. Tried to get a puller tool from AutoZone, but threads were too big on it too. Couldn't get work from Bikeberry on the proper tool to use. taking the bike back to mountain bike status. May do a 4 stroke beach cruiser in the future.
U you should do a peewee Herman build bro n make her fyyyaaaast
Omg Wasn't he the guy that had kids show from 90's And A news reporter caught jacking off in some weird fetish porno theater lol?
Great video except you stopped 2 pieces short of tearing it all down. There is still one bearing stuck on the crankshaft and one on the clutch shaft, and that is my main concern when splitting these. How to get those off of there when that happens...
USe 2x 1/2 wrenches! on the crank bearing! Use them like a pry bar on each side of the bearing. the Jaws have a round edge on each side and as you use them like a pry bar it acts as a pivot point o pop the bearing off! you have to put on on both side and do it! Clutch shaft bearing is easy! Just put the whole thing like vise! so bearing resting on the vise jaws and just knock the shaft through! The bearing on my clutch shaft actually pulled off by hand! I will do a video of the one on the crank today!
There yeah go! th-cam.com/users/shortsHhhZR9GEsIE?feature=share
@@BuildBreakFix Wow no special tools, that's really cool! Thank you for the quick response 👍
Is there a clip where you smacked that thumb with a hammer? 😂Need to start loading bloopers!
Ha! I didn't hit my finger actually! My wife is half paralyzed! She has people helping her to get moving it again. One of them almost dropped her! So I grabbed my wife and her wheelchair as they were doing down. Got her into the wheel chair before she could fall! Which was crushing my other hand at the time under the bar of the seat she was just slammed down lol I don't think there is enough time in a year to edit all the censor beeps for that clip 🍺🤣👍
Are the crank bearings and clutch bearings the same?
Crank bearings need to have the inner seal removed. Other than that yes they are identical. A simple small flathead will remove the seal.
Thanks I'm familiar with removing the inner seal on the crankshaft bearings. Was just wondering if both bearings were the same part number thank you very much.
Yeah I messed up the bearings in the last yd100 case I split. They were tough to get out
Yeah bearings can be a pain no matter how many times you mess with them lol. I had few moments with lots 4 letter words lok