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26mm carb sounds to big for this.

Haven't heard anything from you forever was just checking on you make sure everything is okay

Bro can you sell me two

I love my Avenger it's totally stock I haven't messed with anything not even the carb plus I run it stupid ritch

I bought the C Series of The Cerakote. It's an "Air Dry", and is suppose to resist higher heat than the H Series, which is the one that's baked. Five (5) day cure before use. They also make an E Series, but, I didn't see that one until I purchased the C Series. I also purchased the smaller skirt piston off of eBay that the OP mentioned in another video concerning, Cerakote. I'm simply airbrushing it on with a cheap battery operated air compressor >>>> it's used for decorating cakes, and make-up. It should work fine.

I disagree if you build the bike proper Android inline I don't believe you have no problems

How did this ceramic stuff work out? I'm getting ready to put my new Minarelli ULTRA together in the next 5 days, and, I think i'll order one of these pistons from the link you provided to another sub, along with this ceramic stuff over at Walmart. I'll do anything within reason to prolong the life of my engine. I've sorta HP'd it out except for the case. Using this ceramicote stuff, why can't I just fully mask the piston, and dip the face of the piston in the kote, turn it right side up, and let it dry? This stuff needs a damn paint station >>>> not for my wallet. If it's just like paint, I don't see a problem >>>> unless. . . do the pistons you switched to have the same slight hemi on the top as the stock piston? .Speaking of, can that slight arc effect the way the kote spreads, cuz i'm thinking of eveness. Shouldn't be a problem to just dip them if the kote acts like paint. Thank You, sir 👍 BTW, these bikes are going to be a Godsend within the next 60 days >>>> WATCH!!! Oh, and buy physical Silver 👍

I followed your video, pulled my crank apart, and weighed all my parts as well before hand. My crank halves weighed 626grms and 623grms respectively. I weighed my ZMN100 rod and it was 96grams. Weighed my crank pin bearing and crank pin to be 10grms and 33.5grms. My windowed piston wrist pin, bearing, rings and clips were all 122.3grams. This gave me a total weight of 261.8grms. I subtracted the 100grms for the existing holes as instructed and then drilled three 12mm holes all the way through due to needing 80.9grams removed from each crank. I weighed the first crank half after drilling three holes and it only removed 44.5 grams from the entire weight of that crank half..... what am I missing?

i keep adjusting the idle screw on the clone bofeng nt carb , how to keep engine running , will cut off if i slow down or stop ,have to keep feeding gas, ive tried everything ,except jet change

I hit 10k with stock ports and an nt carb lol

Hey man where you been

BBF thanks for taking the time. One question maybe I missed it…? What was your original hung weight without taking out the 60g from the plates? I have seen a lot of videos showing these being balanced after mass reduction, however I have yet to see anyone put (45-250g imaginary numbers for example) on a stock crank and get it the rod to sit in the journal…… Any information would help for a starting point. I have a ceracote race piston that is a lot heavier than most standard units and looking to get it dialed in after sitting in front of a scale yesterday for an hour and not finding a sweet spot. Thanks in advance if any help?

So is everybody going to put 6mm heli coils in their motor base?😮

Where is my comment from earlier?

I'm crazy about the material and design. Im not trying to be disrespectful but I feel Yamaha does this better. Cast aluminum is poor quality material. Cast iron is much better for wear and heat displacement but it is much heavier. The 1 ring piston is another thing. You can laterally port them which helps for cooling but I'd rather have the 2 for more reliable and better compression . Also the top end of this piston body is not machined Which is probably the reason for all of the shims to adjust squish. This almost always has to be decked by the consumer that cares about engine compression. It should have at least been machined to reassure the consumer that it is parallel and true to the bottom surface and the bore. Again not trying to be disrespectful just commenting opinion.

So, this morning I bought myself the CNC Head for my CMB Wildcat Minarelli ULTRA >>> I'm curious about the Squish, and how much the difference will be from the stock Head the motor came with. I figured, the OP, and all he's done should know. Yeah, this new Head uses an O-Ring instead of a gasket. I don't want my piston to be frying prematurely. I got this Head mainly for cooling purposes, but, I understand that it's also got quite a bit to offer in performance. I shall soon see. Btw, how bout these "RunWell" plugs, and where to buy them? I'm learning that they don't seat as deep as the NKG plugs, and it too also has an effect on the squish. Anyway. . .

What's the next step after this

the best part is the part where he uses all his strength while speaking

Thank you so much man u just saved me

Congratulations, until something different appears, could you help me with data? How much does your wrist run? The CVT makes you rev much higher and use more gasoline? I have ever thought of doing something like that, you are great, many doubts of many people are out, but good questions arise, hahaha🎉

How fast is it 😅

Will this hit my piston

Thanks man, this video is still helping people like me in whats about to be 2025

What brand impact is that

Baur 20 volt impact driver

For all of the 'Cruizers' out there, a coaster brake hub, and the "standard" size universal adapter are a perfect match. No sanding or tweeking of any kind needed. Also, and something almost everyone on UT is missing, the cheaper 9 hole rag/sprocket WILL NOT WORK with the Adaptor >>>>> unless you're a machinist, of course. Therefore, you have to get a 'Tuned' sprocket, and it will bolt right up, and it won't slip!!! All of that crap about hubs not being precision made, and it being why there's so many variations and problems >>>> 🐴💩!!! It's all about the right part for the job. Digg'in this channel! 👍

Awful instrucrions

Im building two right now. I got fuel mixed pretty thick around 16:1-20:1 fuel. I am building them to be free flowing and run as much as possible. I am using VP110 after break in and or 100LL AV Gas. I am not going to take any chances with these kits. Do you recomend just to keep this stuff cheap over all or is it best to branch off and do a saw build at some point? What is more reliable? I wanna do a saw build at one point and find a moped. Are mopeds worse then motorized bikes becaue they are slower revving motors? I had my engines soft seaze a lot with my PUCH E50. I even tuned it right and had 16:1 fuel ratio... That MOPED was junk. Too many issues.

Bro it's joneser up in smoke. Bro ur the man home lol KEEP IT UP. Yo hit the like button for THE KID

I'm having a hard time with my motor for my bike how can I find out if it is firing

It’s boring to hear you talking why you just built it and get it done, please man get it done please get it done !!!!!!!

A couple 3or4 times around the hole w/ die grinder was easy for me.

where do i get one of these motors?

Love your channel. You rock, and your bikes always roll. Thanks for educating us!!!!

Rod length is not cut in half like stroke. If rod length is off by 1mm it's swept area is raised 1mm. It's not like stroke where if you add 1mm it's only .5mm up and .5mm down🤦 don't think I would listen to anything this guy says.

Those heads are good enough for Minarelli?

So oil burns correct try adding cooking oil to gasoline mix in some acetone and fuel stable with your two stroke oil watch what happens to the cooking oil when you put that into the gasoline add that first you can also add some butane liquid to the mix don’t smoke while doing this lol just try if you don’t believe me you’ll be surprised by how good it runs measure as you think apply much appreciate the videos

So to sum it up... For break in convention oil is a must..16:1 up to 32:1 ...break in is 1 gallon of gas or 2 tanks of gas (tank is half gallon on bike kits) after break in you can use 32:1 conventional or 40:1 synthetic Do i have this right? Im also taking it real easy on break in and im using 16:1 to be extra cautious in case i dont have it tuned right and its maybe running too lean...

Nice

You are a wealth of knowledge and I greatly appreciate it. I learned a lot by watching just two of your videos versus hours of reading stuff online. I bought a motorized bike engine and it's always been pretty tough to start I have to really pedal fast to get it started it doesn't want to idle and I use 40 to 1 synthetic oil mix not knowing any better. I'm only reading 50 psi now compression I can't see and I don't have any tools that a machinist would have to actually measure the bore but is there any test I can do to confirm that I egg-shaped my cylinder? I was thinking of putting the Piston at top dead center and then introducing maybe 15 lb of air into the spark plug and seeing if I can feel any air or hear any air come out near the head normally in a 4-stroke I would just open up the oil fill cap and see if that are is getting by the Rings and into the crankcase but obviously I can't do that being that it is a two-stroke

Hey I have a question I have a YD100 that I have already ported. Transfers, exhaust intake, I stuffed the case and Increased velocity and compression it screams goes about 55 60ish mph. I have been attempting to try and use a ported piston and reed valve tried every size and shape with the Dio reed. Now it's a 24mm Nibbi PE carb stater magneto oz magnet stand alone coil and CDI advanced timing slightly. Like I said the thing screams I also watched your video on balancing my crank and followed suite. Runs like butter. But can I ask if there is any benefit from the windowed piston or how to get a power increase with that set-up. Please let me know

I'm confused the NGK b7hs I got has a wide silver tip at the end of it not the one with threads like in your video and I can't get it to fit into the boot or whatever you call it that goes over the spark plug

I just find out that you can use the 3rd wire as a pulse but i dont find a cdi to use it for😢

Hi ) I saw your videos about crank balance, annd I have a question, I calculate ALL stuff except one rod, because I don't want to re-press the crankshaft, my rod name is ZNM 80, If I calculate weight with this video only by scales, weight is 44 gr, and for right weight of thi rod I need to do this:44+44 AND + 15 gr = 103 gr rod !!! Thanks

Thank you so much!!

Dear motorized bike messiah, i recently aquired a couple motorized bike frames "sceaming demons". Ive heard some very mixed things. What is your honest opinion of them? I run some pretty powerful bikes. Nothing quite as impressive as yourself but im getting there day by day(with alot of your info!). Ive had a felt faker previously and it did me well. However these frames do not appear as worthy at glance. I ask you because your of the few whos opinion i value and trust. Also im sure you wont hold back from pointing out anything you find unsatisfactory. Plz and thank you! Btw HOW ABOUT SOME NEW CONTENT?! Im dying here with my fix of build break fix lol

Im assuming if u build the engine with it u can get more that seems like just the tip of the iceberg and spark right what about 2 turbos after u get engine built up?

I live in NC, is there anyway I could buy one of your builds you do not use anymore?