interesting a DB-9 port beside the controller, wonder what that's used for on them. guess I'll have to go find a service manual and see :) those are way ancient technology in the computer world, commonly used as RS-232 serial communications (com ports) and joystick ports many moons ago also.
My freezer blows the breaker as soon as you plug it in. Where should i start? Your videos are awesome. It worked fine, then one day was off. Breaker blown. Fixed it plugged it in, was on about 30 seconds, then nothing. Ever since then, bliws breaker the second you plog it in. Any ideas? Thank you in advance!
First check if your compressor is shorted to ground. Then check your capacitors. If good begin to disconnect components one by one until you find the culprit and the breaker doesn’t trip. If it isn’t instantly tripping take an amp draw, compressor may be locked rotor. If it trips after checking all this or you can take amp draw and the amp rating is within specs and the breaker is tripping replace the breaker, could be weak breaker.
NorCal. On the model tag there is a QR code. Just point your phone in camera mode at it and the warranty info will load if you tap on the link that pops up..
We are getting a lot of the 290 units in 7-elevens... all spark less connectors and controls... but 10 inches away from the unit is a regular 110 v receptacle 🙄 One of our guys thawed a 290 coil iced over with map gas... lucky he didn’t singe his nut hairs off 🤘🇺🇸
Nor-Cal Refrigeration & H.V.A.C. .... yea it’s gonna be a learning curve for all of us. I guess it won’t be on the manufacture if the receptacle outside of the unit sparks and blows up from the unit leaking 290 out. They say your supposed to crimp and seal the lines back if you open the system and they don’t want no access ports for gauge hook ups. Not sure if propane will deteriorate the seal in a valve core or not but I got one unit out there that has an access port on the low side. Ain’t heard nothing bout it yet. Thanks for all the hard work on here brotha. 🤘🇺🇸
make your own? it's just a "normally open" momentary push button with high current rating. the whole device simply connects neutral to compressor "common" test clip, line to the "run" clip and through push-button to the "start" clip. plug it in and compressor has full line power at the run terminal, hit the push button and it gives full line power to the start terminal until released. I'd make my own, add a circuit breaker so it trips before the building one, a pilot(idiot) light so I don't forget it on and zap myself and master power switch or use a toggle that is off-on-on(momentary) although that's a specialty switch and pricey :) EDIT: the pre-made start cord may be wired opposite, with line(hot) to common clip and neutral to the other clips. either way will work for testing since it would be unplugged and isolated from the rest of the machine..
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Man you are squeaky clean for this one..lol. gooowd stuff brother Dave. Be safe have a great night.
I'm greatly curious about that nine pin connector near the control, if it's a serial port or for specialized diagnostics...
seen that and just commented about it also, off to find a service manual to see :)
Looks like a RS-232 port, can plug a connector in that goes to USB.
@@guhuna probably not standard RS-232 serial and likely meant for dedicated test equipment.
Super Dave doin' what he do ...
interesting a DB-9 port beside the controller, wonder what that's used for on them. guess I'll have to go find a service manual and see :)
those are way ancient technology in the computer world, commonly used as RS-232 serial communications (com ports) and joystick ports many moons ago also.
My freezer blows the breaker as soon as you plug it in. Where should i start? Your videos are awesome. It worked fine, then one day was off. Breaker blown. Fixed it plugged it in, was on about 30 seconds, then nothing. Ever since then, bliws breaker the second you plog it in. Any ideas? Thank you in advance!
First check if your compressor is shorted to ground. Then check your capacitors. If good begin to disconnect components one by one until you find the culprit and the breaker doesn’t trip. If it isn’t instantly tripping take an amp draw, compressor may be locked rotor. If it trips after checking all this or you can take amp draw and the amp rating is within specs and the breaker is tripping replace the breaker, could be weak breaker.
NorCal. On the model tag there is a QR code. Just point your phone in camera mode at it and the warranty info will load if you tap on the link that pops up..
I have the enter serial number web sight on my phone old school. Thanks for the heads up. 🤘🤘
We are getting a lot of the 290 units in 7-elevens... all spark less connectors and controls... but 10 inches away from the unit is a regular 110 v receptacle 🙄
One of our guys thawed a 290 coil iced over with map gas... lucky he didn’t singe his nut hairs off 🤘🇺🇸
I was thinking about that, re train ourselves on how we do things
Nor-Cal Refrigeration & H.V.A.C. .... yea it’s gonna be a learning curve for all of us. I guess it won’t be on the manufacture if the receptacle outside of the unit sparks and blows up from the unit leaking 290 out. They say your supposed to crimp and seal the lines back if you open the system and they don’t want no access ports for gauge hook ups. Not sure if propane will deteriorate the seal in a valve core or not but I got one unit out there that has an access port on the low side. Ain’t heard nothing bout it yet. Thanks for all the hard work on here brotha. 🤘🇺🇸
Can you show that handy dandy cord sir? Is it just spaded at the end?
Mario Vale th-cam.com/video/jFMm1d8Aeic/w-d-xo.html
5 year warranty on those Trues? They are here in the UK
Yep true paying
Nice job dave👍
Could you have put a 3 in 1 kit on this unit?
It was under warranty so I got the oem parts from true.
👍👍👍nice job Dave
🤘⚡️🤘
i spied the k symbol on meter lit, so 2.7 K ohm 2,700 =p
Link to that start cord? I understand it may be under warranty, if not, would a Supco 3-in-one work on these 290 units? Thanks.
True has informed me the 3 in 1 is ok to test the compressor but can not be used. Due to R290. The oem spark proof must be used.
@@NorCal-refrigeration ah, hence the circuit board inside it as opposed to mechanical contacts, that makes sense now
That start cord appears to be out of production. May have to go home made on that one. Or maybe Dave can sell me his?? LOL!
make your own? it's just a "normally open" momentary push button with high current rating. the whole device simply connects neutral to compressor "common" test clip, line to the "run" clip and through push-button to the "start" clip. plug it in and compressor has full line power at the run terminal, hit the push button and it gives full line power to the start terminal until released.
I'd make my own, add a circuit breaker so it trips before the building one, a pilot(idiot) light so I don't forget it on and zap myself and master power switch or use a toggle that is off-on-on(momentary) although that's a specialty switch and pricey :)
EDIT: the pre-made start cord may be wired opposite, with line(hot) to common clip and neutral to the other clips. either way will work for testing since it would be unplugged and isolated from the rest of the machine..
#127 thumbs up
5 oz. wow. 👍🏼. Hmm.
I know crazy. Definitely here to stay