Shop for the Dayton Audio SPA1000: amzn.to/31Jb6Rz Don't want DIY? Check out this Sub: amzn.to/2Z1S0V5 SMD AMM-1 Handheld Amp Dyno: amzn.to/3iw1Ztm DISCLAIMER: This video and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you purchase from one of the product links, I may receive a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases
Williston Audio Labs Big d wiz! I’ve been trying to reach you for about 8 months now. I have a Lanzar optidrive 6000.1 1 ohm stable amp. There is absolutely no dynos on this amp once so ever. I would love to see what power it could do! Amp is pretty damn big too!
I got one of those , i put a 12volt amp fan in the side of it and run it a 1.5 ohms... Powered a rockfordfosgate p3 12 in a ford tarus on a power converter... Very loud... Still have it, wish i knew what kind of power it does
NEXT AMP YOU HAVE TO TEST IS ONE OF THE NEW ROCKVILLE DB COMP 3500 CEA RMS WATTS WITH A VOLT METER BUILT ON THE FRONT OF THE AMP FOR $349!!!!!!! ALSO FOR $299 THERE'S A 3000 WATT AMP AS WELL TRY BOTH!!!
@Mr. D if you think that intersting you should see me awsome extension cord plug in on my subwoofer box, no more spring connection or reg terminals. Works great ,just plug it in
I am both happy and jealous at the same time about living so far away from their headquarters. Happy because I have a long distance barrier between me, their HQ, and my bank account, but jealous I would practically live in that store!
Big big fan! I refer everyone to you when they are like “wonder how much power my amp does😂” I say go to big d wiz !! You are the go to guy. Love your work. Thanks a lot man !!
Been a PE customer for over a decade. Great company with a knowledgeable staff. When you began your listening test it certainly looked like you had a lot of air leaking around your driver which can really skew the measurements and listening tests. Great video as always, keep up the good work.
Just this one video I've seen two pieces of testing equipment I've never seen in 40+ years of electronics and just found out about your channel. Definitely a keeper
All these years and I finally get to see the guts and the watts. I have it with a 15" and I love it. Shakes the house really good. Thanks big D!! Yeah boy!!!
I've used these line of amps on a couple of builds I did for myself and friends. I really like them. I built a gaming system for my basement that gives my house " trunk farts " using this same amp. It powers two RF hx2's in a ported and dampened enclosure .
As most audiophiles would already know, that turn on/off thump will not be an issue when using a power conditioner or voltage regulator with a delayed turn on sequence. I run several high power amplifiers in my home setup but run a Furman power conditioner that has a variable turn on sequence which eliminates any chance of this happening.
The bass in this video was so clean it turned my active subwoofer into a passive subwoofer. No for real I never heard my subwoofer make such a clean and consistent bass sound xD
I usually watch your vids on my phone thru the tiny speakers. Forgot I was listening to my BT and clicked on TH-cam. Do It Bump Doe? took on a whole new meaning coming out of my M&K V-1250thx!! Guess I'll be listening on BT from now on. Great to see you mix it up with home, car, and weird audio.
I have had a few of these home theater subwoofer amps opened up before, all had either a spdt switch that selects "on" or "auto", or a simple on/off switch on the power supply like this one has. The ones that don't have selectable "on" or "auto" ALL had a jumper somewhere on the board to select it. It's as simple as adding your own switch to the jumper. The reason for the "thump" here is that when you operate that switch you are cutting power to the power supply while the output stage is still active. When you turn it "off" at the amp board instead of the power supply it will mute the outputs before ot shuts down. It's just a cost cutting measure so they don't have to add an extra switch to the panel.
Glad to see this test, it was satisfying to see it come in under the rating for four ohms, keep in mind it does outperform by a larger margin at 8 ohms. For my purposes the Crown Xli 2500 is a far better value, you can see the Xli 1500 beats the numbers by a lot. Based on the Xli 1500 tests, the 2500 should be able to roughly 982 watts at 4 ohms per channel, the biggest downside is it can't do 4 ohms bridged like the XLS 2502. Still though the Xli 2500 is the same price as this plate amp, and has lower THD... Many people say the fans are never noticeable, depends how hard you drive it of course, but we'll see because I purchased the Xli 2500.
I made some Stereo Cabinets, fitted 2 "Blam" coaxial 5.25" speakers and 2 Dayton Audio 6" extra weighted passive Radiators and they sounded pretty good in the living area of a friends Hymer campervan.
I use one of these in my shop system. I picked it up (still NIB) on the used market for $150. Very solid amp! Mine does not thump nearly as bad as that one.
Try the square woofers.....10 in or 12. They come in grey or black/white. Very good to replace any floor woofers. Bassy and loud. Available at Parts Express.
Been eyeballing those plate amps from Dayton for a very long time, never have been in my price range lol. One day I'll get one of the lower wattage, the 150 watt is all I need.
Great amp, I have one at home running a pair of Dayton Reference HF 10s in an Isobaric tuned to 21hz. Sounds masterful. The parametric has been great for tuning out my room mode.
Thanks BigD, the main problem I feel here is that lot of people would wondering how 1% distortion sounds like. It is possible to connect a 100 Ohms resistors with a classical speaker in parallel with the dyno when tuning with 1khz? I think is too hard to reach a regular 1% distorsion with a song. Microphone switched on, and try to heard how a 1% distorsion sounds like. Nice videos, as usual.
I was going to get one of these amp's to build a sub for my home studio but they are rather expensive. By the time I bought this amp and paired it with a sub and a good box it would probably be over $7-800. I bought a Kali WS-12 instead. I know its not as powerful, but it was definitely less work and cheaper.
@@NightshiftCustom Because most true audiophiles don't use Crown amps for high end setups due to the fact that they are NOT very clean. These Dayton plate amplifiers utilize a class A/B output stage and are very clean and articulate. Crown is great for loads of power for PA systems and sound reinforcement for large theaters or music venues, but for ultimate home audio enthusiasts these plate amps are great as replacement amps to fill the huge hole in an existing subwoofer encloser or to use in a new build. Crowns, with their Class D designs just don't cut it harmonicly for high end applications, and do not have the features that these Daytons do as well. I love the idea of outboard power amps running home subwoofers. I run 2 M&K X12s that are powered, but i bypass and run them with 2 Parasound JC 1 monoblocks and the low end is unbelievable!
@@ryannutter4669 yes I understand that but when your playing 100hz 80hz or less then you will never ever hear a difference from a class D amp. Why do you think just about every sub amp is some kind of class D and not a/b
I had Dayton's original hpsa1000 rack mount version of this amp. It would be nice to see how one of those or even the current model compares to the plate mount. That older model, If you pushed It to hard. That Blue led would start to turn red when it started to clip. If you kept pushing it, it would go into protect. But would come back on after a bit. I know It would do Allot more before it started to clip. Once I upgraded to a bigger power cord.
sir to prevent the turn on/off thump. you could add a relay on the output of the amplifier to get a soft starter switch for speaker. there's an output relay module out there on amazon or any circuit and electronics online store :)
Looks like it needs a gasket of some kind between the rear plastic housing and the aluminum face plate. Then again, I've used one of the "Bash 300S" plate amps before that has no inner plastic housing and had no problems. Controls were sealed up pretty well on that one.
I've been wondering about them aswell. For the price point they seem like a great value but also a little scary on quality. With other brands like crown and QSC you know you're getting something that's solid and Powerful, with Rockville" for that kind of money? we need to know if it's worth it..
I have car amp and car sub setup in my surround sound system. I have a Dual Electronics 4ch amp that does 250rms x 2. Mine is pushing a 500rms Pioneer 12" sub. I paid $65 for the sub, $45 ported box, $100 amplifier, and $20 power supply. So for about $220 I have a very powerful system.
I have the 500W version and there's no thumps if you leave it in "AUTO". It powers itself on and off when needed without thumping. I've had it over 7 years now and it still works great. I don't think it's a true class AB amp though, I recall it being more like a class G topology but maybe they switched it up over the years.
One feature that you don't see much of anymore on plate amps. Is high level inputs, 5 way binding post, that uses banana plugs. Both inputs and outputs.
That was a very cool to see review. It would be awesome to see you do a review on some of the clone amps like a FP 20000q and see if it is capable of the claimed 4000 x 4 burst power and 8000 total continuous till it trips the breaker or melts down. That is on a 30amp 240 volt circuit.
The 1/3rd duty cycle is what they do at Stereophile probably when they test, and I think they do it because that's how the FTC does it's official tests. And what they do is run the amp for an hour at 1/3 power, because that's the hardest you can work an amp. Then they test it right after that. It's to put everyone on a level playing field. No amps that can only put out crazy watts for a few seconds will get an official rating this way.
Would love to see some amps where you upgrade the coupling caps or other key ones to see what kind of gains can be had-- or not. May not do much for THIS amp but I'm speaking generally 🙂
I have the SA1000 version of this. It’s the rack mount version. Same specs. It’s pretty beefy. Pushes my single 10 down deep and hard. It does have a phase shift on it.
How do you attach the single driver to the SA1000 power amp that has left and right outputs? Did you use bridged mode? And if so which channel you use as input? Because here SPA1000 when both inputs (RCA L+R) are attached, it provides one output.
Maybe make a timed relay to connect the speaker to the amp when you turn it on.. maybe a 1 second timer relay that activates when the power switch turns on and a 240v 20amp relay to hold the power?
@@devinstepp4205 you have the right idea thay all ready make the part you are talking and thinking about it's called a speaker pertection board they sell them on eBay 120 or 240 30 amp stereo or mono they also sell in low voltage you can also add a soft start to this. Keep up those ideas you just never know 👍👌✌️💯🍒 over design is always better than under design 🤔😉👍✌️ In this case should of been design this way. 🤔😁add on
I'm using it to drive 2 JL 12W6v3's in my Home Theater, sounds a lot better then I was expecting, they still get deep for using car subs in the house! Just curious what it is truly putting out to the subs.
Hello I noticed you put two blue cable into the left and right inputs , is there a reason why one cable don’t just go in the LFE input ? By putting it into the left and right does it make the subwoofer sound better ?
Duty cycle whatever that means? It means the proportion of time that the amp is capable of delivering its rated power. In this case up to one third of the time can be spent at full power. This is fine for some types of source material (movie effects) which are short term in nature, but highly compresses bass-heavy music may cause the amp to overheat if driven at maximum power.
Dayton Audios plate amps are very stout. About 6 years back I had a big 1/4 wave TL with a 4 ohm dvc sub that I was running with a Dayton 240 watt plate amp. I was supposed to wire it to 8 ohms in series, but I accidentally left it wired to 2 ohms for a Halloween party for 4 hours. It got hot but never shut off. Fast forward to yesterday and I had been using a Avionixx 2000.1D with a power supply to power a Dayton Ultimax 10 DVC 2 ohm at 1 ohm. I switched to my Dayton 240 watt plate amp and my son played it loudly for about 2 hours. Came back in my house and it had shut off, VERY warm. I thought I had killed it, but I unplugged it and let it cool down and it fired right back up at 4 ohms series.
I have owned my SPA500 now for 10 years if that should tell you how well they perform over time. I did not realize it until late and I made a new sub cabinet, but these amps will run 2 ohm as long as you set it correctly. I had my SPA500 hooked to a 10 inch Memphis M3 set to 2 ohm for 9.9 years all because I did not check the impedance before hooking it up. While it could have cooked the amp and it would have been my fault the whole way, the amp never faltered and played strong every time.
@@TMouse-hd5jb i would probably still run the 1000 at 8ohms just because of how much power it still makes. maybe 6 ohms if i could find a "rare" driver
Next amp you have to test is one of the NEW ROCKVILLE DB COMP CEA rated not some magic rms watt rating. There's a 3500 cea rms watt with a built in volt meter for $349 and also for $299 the 3000 cea rms watt Rockville DB Comp!! Both will be nice I just can tell I've seen a demo of the 3000 and it was good👍
I can't believe you have an Infinity perfect. Those things are like diamonds in a rough these days. I had four of them and wish I kept the two that didn't eventually blow out after 15 years of play. I wish I could find a pair of these 12's but they're impossible to find and no one wants to get rid of them
@@wal any time. I appreciate your straight forward and honest approach with what you are doing. You have definitely stopped me from making some disappointing purchases.
Installed mine in a 4th order bandpass with 2 American bass 300w rms 8s and it absolutely tore the amp apart with the lower frequencies. After a couple months of use it started cutting in and out and the pots started making noises when tuning the amp. Needless to say it's replacement has never gone into any inclosure
I've had this amp driving a TC Sounds Epic 12" in a home made 3' cube sealed enclosure for the last 8 years. Never had a problem with it and it literally shakes my entire viewing area. The Epic is a great driver, it seems TC sounds either went out of business or changed ownership or something, because I can no longer find these subs available online. But the Epic is clean, has great transient response and digs below 20hz. The Dayton amp has been solid and problem free for almost an entire decade! It's the first Dayton product I've even bought, and so far the brand has impressed me. Very curious to check out there ultimax and HO subs.
CT sounds is still around. So I found 2 klipsch SPL-150SW in the dumpster about 2 weeks ago. The boxes were trashed . I finally took it apart to inspect before plugging anything in. Both subs work perfectly , and one amp. The bad amp powers on , no bad caps, but like I said this person threw it around and it's missing the toggle switches and whatever is damaged internally. I'm contemplating on bringing the amp to be serviced or going a whole different route. Currently I'm running a infinity CSW-10 and it's a great sub but getting them lows would be killer! I already in plans to build a box out of birch and I'm thinking of doing a sealed box then original spec of it being ported. Idk way to many projects and suddenly I'm wanting to fiddle with this , when I still have a 13 W7 I bought 6 years ago still in its box(I gave up on car audio because of thieves)
@@Stupid_you_so_stoopid_UHF My amp finally went out on me about 8 months ago, I kept the Epic but got an HSU Research 15" prebuilt for the home theatre now.
@@MadClowdz thanks for the reply . Yeah I think I'm going to dabble around and see what I can find. I'll probably just bring the plate to someone to have it serviced. Might as well, bring some other items there too. . I got way too much gear 😆.
my problem with some of these are that they ahve a built in subsonic filter. where they cut off lower than 30hz.... i was wondering if there is a way to bypass that... so u can get ur ultra lowbass for home theatre
I have the rack mount version of this amp (sa1000) it has a switch on the back you can turn off or on the subsonic filter. It also has the turn off thump. I leave it on. Honestly I think rack mount is the way to go. Never been a fan of mounting an amp to a enclosure.
"can be better" it also lacks of rca output for sats (senseless choice). Hope they will add this feature in conjuction with high pass filter and subsonic filter
Funny how this plate amp beats most of the car amps who tend to lie a lot about their power ratings especially since Dayton's amp is considered a budget low end unit in the audiophile community.
![Amazon Best Seller? Fosi Audio M0-3 Monoblock Home Audio Amplifier [4K]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wrBPAP3nol0/mqdefault.jpg)
Shop for the Dayton Audio SPA1000: amzn.to/31Jb6Rz
Don't want DIY? Check out this Sub: amzn.to/2Z1S0V5
SMD AMM-1 Handheld Amp Dyno: amzn.to/3iw1Ztm
DISCLAIMER: This video and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you purchase from one of the product links, I may receive a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases
Williston Audio Labs
Big d wiz! I’ve been trying to reach you for about 8 months now. I have a Lanzar optidrive 6000.1 1 ohm stable amp. There is absolutely no dynos on this amp once so ever. I would love to see what power it could do! Amp is pretty damn big too!
I got one of those , i put a 12volt amp fan in the side of it and run it a 1.5 ohms... Powered a rockfordfosgate p3 12 in a ford tarus on a power converter... Very loud... Still have it, wish i knew what kind of power it does
NEXT AMP YOU HAVE TO TEST IS ONE OF THE NEW ROCKVILLE DB COMP 3500 CEA RMS WATTS WITH A VOLT METER BUILT ON THE FRONT OF THE AMP FOR $349!!!!!!! ALSO FOR $299 THERE'S A 3000 WATT AMP AS WELL TRY BOTH!!!
@Mr. D if you think that intersting you should see me awsome extension cord plug in on my subwoofer box, no more spring connection or reg terminals. Works great ,just plug it in
Can you do the DB drive wdx 5k amp
I live near Parts Express headquarters. They have great stuff and have been a lifesaver during my many builds.
You are a lucky man!!!
Yep I live close as well..Saves having to wait on great products.
I am both happy and jealous at the same time about living so far away from their headquarters. Happy because I have a long distance barrier between me, their HQ, and my bank account, but jealous I would practically live in that store!
I live a few miles from You Do It Electronics in Needham, MA which is the closest big electronics place we have
@@circuitsandcigars1278 That place is fantastic!!!
Big big fan! I refer everyone to you when they are like “wonder how much power my amp does😂” I say go to big d wiz !! You are the go to guy. Love your work. Thanks a lot man !!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Been a PE customer for over a decade. Great company with a knowledgeable staff. When you began your listening test it certainly looked like you had a lot of air leaking around your driver which can really skew the measurements and listening tests. Great video as always, keep up the good work.
Just this one video I've seen two pieces of testing equipment I've never seen in 40+ years of electronics and just found out about your channel. Definitely a keeper
All these years and I finally get to see the guts and the watts. I have it with a 15" and I love it. Shakes the house really good. Thanks big D!! Yeah boy!!!
I'd like to see more home amps reviewed and rated. Outlaw Audios, Emotiva, Parasound, Monoprice, etc.
Home amps are SO much easier to test than car amps. Just plug them in!
@@wal please more home audio amps and receivers. It's hard to match speakers to receivers now days and I'm building a 1st home cinema next year
I want to see a home A/V receiver that claims the 165w 1ch cause you know av receivers run mono anyways right lol
@@wal Yes, and the issue with home amps is how some simply do not tell us how much power is being used with all channels driven vs. just 2 channels.
@@wal agree , i want to see more home amps also , and bring back the boards !!! i miss those !!!!
I've used these line of amps on a couple of builds I did for myself and friends. I really like them. I built a gaming system for my basement that gives my house " trunk farts " using this same amp. It powers two RF hx2's in a ported and dampened enclosure .
How do you adjust phase ? via freq?
ahaaaa i was just waiting for this amp review by you.BIG THANKS!'!'!!'''''
Good timing then 👌
I have the lowered power version with the Dayton 10" kit. It's been good for 5 years or so. I didn't have a ton of money, but have been pleased.
That turn on thump doe! 😱
Do it bump? It sho do thump!
its a built in bass test.
I've see worse.
@@carlosoliveira-rc2xt Adcom GFA565
As most audiophiles would already know, that turn on/off thump will not be an issue when using a power conditioner or voltage regulator with a delayed turn on sequence. I run several high power amplifiers in my home setup but run a Furman power conditioner that has a variable turn on sequence which eliminates any chance of this happening.
Which particular model?
Ditch the junk and you won't have that issue. Power "conditioners" do nothing but waste your money.
The bass in this video was so clean it turned my active subwoofer into a passive subwoofer.
No for real I never heard my subwoofer make such a clean and consistent bass sound xD
I usually watch your vids on my phone thru the tiny speakers. Forgot I was listening to my BT and clicked on TH-cam. Do It Bump Doe? took on a whole new meaning coming out of my M&K V-1250thx!! Guess I'll be listening on BT from now on. Great to see you mix it up with home, car, and weird audio.
That parametric eq is tight as ..
It allows the boosting or cutting of freq
Room/setup tuning
Good stuff.
Always love to watch BigDWiz, he can really help me chose an amp
Thank you for testing home plate amps as well.. Awesome!! Love to see more. Keep up the great work
I have had a few of these home theater subwoofer amps opened up before, all had either a spdt switch that selects "on" or "auto", or a simple on/off switch on the power supply like this one has. The ones that don't have selectable "on" or "auto" ALL had a jumper somewhere on the board to select it. It's as simple as adding your own switch to the jumper. The reason for the "thump" here is that when you operate that switch you are cutting power to the power supply while the output stage is still active. When you turn it "off" at the amp board instead of the power supply it will mute the outputs before ot shuts down. It's just a cost cutting measure so they don't have to add an extra switch to the panel.
It's a 17$ speaker pertection board those cheap basterd 👌✌️👍🤔😉
Good to see the old Ford on the road!
Thank you for expanding your Dyno tests outside the car offerings, looking forward to more videos like this one if possible. 👍🏻
i was just wondering if i could find a review on this thing, glad to see you have one.. Awesome!
I like the way you get right to the point and start testing.
Glad to see this test, it was satisfying to see it come in under the rating for four ohms, keep in mind it does outperform by a larger margin at 8 ohms. For my purposes the Crown Xli 2500 is a far better value, you can see the Xli 1500 beats the numbers by a lot. Based on the Xli 1500 tests, the 2500 should be able to roughly 982 watts at 4 ohms per channel, the biggest downside is it can't do 4 ohms bridged like the XLS 2502. Still though the Xli 2500 is the same price as this plate amp, and has lower THD... Many people say the fans are never noticeable, depends how hard you drive it of course, but we'll see because I purchased the Xli 2500.
I made some Stereo Cabinets, fitted 2 "Blam" coaxial 5.25" speakers and 2 Dayton Audio 6" extra weighted passive Radiators and they sounded pretty good in the living area of a friends Hymer campervan.
I use one of these in my shop system. I picked it up (still NIB) on the used market for $150. Very solid amp! Mine does not thump nearly as bad as that one.
Try the square woofers.....10 in or 12. They come in grey or black/white. Very good to replace any floor woofers. Bassy and loud. Available at Parts Express.
Been eyeballing those plate amps from Dayton for a very long time, never have been in my price range lol. One day I'll get one of the lower wattage, the 150 watt is all I need.
Thanx for testing this. I was thinking about getting one or two of these to make some powered subwoofers for my garage.
Love Dayton Audio - home and car!
Good to see the old Ford on the road! Thanks for the vid.
Them Toroids! Powering Class Amps since ages.
Great amp, I have one at home running a pair of Dayton Reference HF 10s in an Isobaric tuned to 21hz. Sounds masterful. The parametric has been great for tuning out my room mode.
I've been store for 2 years this same model (NIB) waiting for the dyno test to see the real power from this unit, thx a lot.
👌😬👍
Thank you. These types of videos are hard to find
Love the home audio tests.
Thanks BigD, the main problem I feel here is that lot of people would wondering how 1% distortion sounds like. It is possible to connect a 100 Ohms resistors with a classical speaker in parallel with the dyno when tuning with 1khz? I think is too hard to reach a regular 1% distorsion with a song. Microphone switched on, and try to heard how a 1% distorsion sounds like. Nice videos, as usual.
I was going to get one of these amp's to build a sub for my home studio but they are rather expensive. By the time I bought this amp and paired it with a sub and a good box it would probably be over $7-800. I bought a Kali WS-12 instead. I know its not as powerful, but it was definitely less work and cheaper.
Yes this is true!
Does this thing have a LPF at around 18hz?
Excellent quality and edited video. Thank you for all the time you put into this.
Thanks for testing this amp! I looked at it several times. I ended up getting a behringer ep2500 instead.
much better idea or look at used crown amps. they last forever it seems
Sounds like a jet plane
I have been running 4 of these amps for about a year in my theatre. Have them powering 4 18s from stereo integrity.
Annnd??? Leave us hanging....?
why would you not just buy some real crown amps. or even one used 4000 watt is prob about the cost of one of these
@@NightshiftCustom Because most true audiophiles don't use Crown amps for high end setups due to the fact that they are NOT very clean. These Dayton plate amplifiers utilize a class A/B output stage and are very clean and articulate. Crown is great for loads of power for PA systems and sound reinforcement for large theaters or music venues, but for ultimate home audio enthusiasts these plate amps are great as replacement amps to fill the huge hole in an existing subwoofer encloser or to use in a new build. Crowns, with their
Class D designs just don't cut it harmonicly for high end applications, and do not have the features that these Daytons do as well. I love the idea of outboard power amps running home subwoofers. I run 2 M&K X12s that are powered, but i bypass and run them with 2 Parasound JC 1 monoblocks and the low end is unbelievable!
@@NightshiftCustom Just like SMC Express said, amps like crown are just good for huge power output, but not fidelity. This Dayton amp is a "real" amp.
@@ryannutter4669 yes I understand that but when your playing 100hz 80hz or less then you will never ever hear a difference from a class D amp. Why do you think just about every sub amp is some kind of class D and not a/b
Ahhhh man that ride sounds sweet
parts express , nice store bought a few things from them, mainly install stuff
Love that flexin paper cone Kicker at the end!
Thanks for the video. I've been waiting on this one.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Was on their site today! Great video
Thanks for watching and commenting!
I have the 70W plate amp on 2 Kicker C6.5a's in a bandpass in my office
Great amp test. Oh, thanks for the ride. Cheers.
I had Dayton's original hpsa1000 rack mount version of this amp. It would be nice to see how one of those or even the current model compares to the plate mount. That older model, If you pushed It to hard. That Blue led would start to turn red when it started to clip. If you kept pushing it, it would go into protect. But would come back on after a bit. I know It would do Allot more before it started to clip. Once I upgraded to a bigger power cord.
Test some crown home amps brother. Love the channel. 👍🏼
Thanks for this review! I have seen these and have never felt the need to pursue a purchase. Turn on/off thumps kinda suck. 😞
I appreciate ya'! 😇😎
Its a 17$ fix should of been done by dayton audio look for a speaker pertection board 120v 30amp mono board. If you do buy one add it on 👍✌️👌🤔😉
MORE HOME AUDIO SUBWOOFERS AND AMPLIFIERS!!
Big D, I just bought the Dayton Sa1000 and I think it has a few more controls on it. I will take a look.
sir to prevent the turn on/off thump. you could add a relay on the output of the amplifier to get a soft starter switch for speaker. there's an output relay module out there on amazon or any circuit and electronics online store :)
Looks like it needs a gasket of some kind between the rear plastic housing and the aluminum face plate. Then again, I've used one of the "Bash 300S" plate amps before that has no inner plastic housing and had no problems. Controls were sealed up pretty well on that one.
Big d wiz always playing with his knob!😁
I have been looking forward for this review! Next could you test the Rockville PA amps?
I’ll look into them. Several car amps coming up too
Rpa12
I've been wondering about them aswell. For the price point they seem like a great value but also a little scary on quality. With other brands like crown and QSC you know you're getting something that's solid and Powerful, with Rockville" for that kind of money? we need to know if it's worth it..
I have car amp and car sub setup in my surround sound system. I have a Dual Electronics 4ch amp that does 250rms x 2. Mine is pushing a 500rms Pioneer 12" sub.
I paid $65 for the sub, $45 ported box, $100 amplifier, and $20 power supply. So for about $220 I have a very powerful system.
I have the 500W version and there's no thumps if you leave it in "AUTO". It powers itself on and off when needed without thumping. I've had it over 7 years now and it still works great. I don't think it's a true class AB amp though, I recall it being more like a class G topology but maybe they switched it up over the years.
It seems to have only two big filter caps so it can only be AB if that is the case. Wierd that this amp appears to have no output relay-delay.
I have the SA1000 rack mount version of this amplifier. It hits hard and clean with a single dayton ref10.
Very good explanation 👌👌👍👍
hell yea i dig the wall plate ive been thinking about bying that one buts its exsoensive though
One feature that you don't see much of anymore on plate amps. Is high level inputs, 5 way binding post, that uses banana plugs. Both inputs and outputs.
Heck of an exhaust leak sounds like, Big D. Thanks for the awesome test. Have a trio of JL12W3v1 that would like this amp to add to the HT!
Yeah she needs exhaust work fo sho
That was a very cool to see review. It would be awesome to see you do a review on some of the clone amps like a FP 20000q and see if it is capable of the claimed 4000 x 4 burst power and 8000 total continuous till it trips the breaker or melts down. That is on a 30amp 240 volt circuit.
Awesome video! Nice to see some home audio on here!
Sweet bonus footy! That headliner tho!
Yeah interior needs work, but she’s cruise-able now!
@@waloh shoot its sagging? I thought it was purposeful and it looked kinda cool and different. Love the chill vibes as always with you D!
Hey there. Any long term update? Did you put it into regular use? I've read some pretty negative reviews concerning this amp's longevity.
Thanks for the review and also for the ride along. Sounds great!
Cool amp man. Thanks for the video. I liked the car ride at the end more than anything though. Love the car Big D.
Thanks brother 👍
The 1/3rd duty cycle is what they do at Stereophile probably when they test, and I think they do it because that's how the FTC does it's official tests. And what they do is run the amp for an hour at 1/3 power, because that's the hardest you can work an amp. Then they test it right after that. It's to put everyone on a level playing field. No amps that can only put out crazy watts for a few seconds will get an official rating this way.
Would love to see some amps where you upgrade the coupling caps or other key ones to see what kind of gains can be had-- or not. May not do much for THIS amp but I'm speaking generally 🙂
I have the SA1000 version of this. It’s the rack mount version. Same specs. It’s pretty beefy. Pushes my single 10 down deep and hard. It does have a phase shift on it.
How do you attach the single driver to the SA1000 power amp that has left and right outputs? Did you use bridged mode? And if so which channel you use as input?
Because here SPA1000 when both inputs (RCA L+R) are attached, it provides one output.
@@henrikhengerics6782 its mono... with two parallel outputs
@@soniclab-cnc How it is mono? How do you get same output from the R+L. And yes, that way it is paralel.
@@henrikhengerics6782 you can use the stereo summing inputs or the LFE input. It is a monoblock amplifier.
Just found this channel. I’m in love
Just found this comment and I feel the same ✌️
Are you in AZ also. ?
Maybe make a timed relay to connect the speaker to the amp when you turn it on.. maybe a 1 second timer relay that activates when the power switch turns on and a 240v 20amp relay to hold the power?
I overengineer things.. shh.. and my systems constantly change configurations. So I'd be unplugging left and right😂
@@devinstepp4205 you have the right idea thay all ready make the part you are talking and thinking about it's called a speaker pertection board they sell them on eBay 120 or 240 30 amp stereo or mono they also sell in low voltage you can also add a soft start to this. Keep up those ideas you just never know 👍👌✌️💯🍒 over design is always better than under design 🤔😉👍✌️ In this case should of been design this way. 🤔😁add on
Love when you do some home audio stuff 🥃
1 /3 Duty cycle means it will work safty without going into protect one 3rd of the time during max out put
seems lame to me lol
@Dave Micolichek I thought it was a welder
Will Dayton Audio UM12-22 model be good for this amplifier? or amp will be too stronger for this sub?
Great video, good to see you are testing Home Audio equipment as well. Any chance you could test out the Crown XLS 1502?
I have the XLi 1502 I think
I'm using it to drive 2 JL 12W6v3's in my Home Theater, sounds a lot better then I was expecting, they still get deep for using car subs in the house! Just curious what it is truly putting out to the subs.
Hello I noticed you put two blue cable into the left and right inputs , is there a reason why one cable don’t just go in the LFE input ? By putting it into the left and right does it make the subwoofer sound better ?
Duty cycle whatever that means? It means the proportion of time that the amp is capable of delivering its rated power. In this case up to one third of the time can be spent at full power. This is fine for some types of source material (movie effects) which are short term in nature, but highly compresses bass-heavy music may cause the amp to overheat if driven at maximum power.
Dayton Audios plate amps are very stout. About 6 years back I had a big 1/4 wave TL with a 4 ohm dvc sub that I was running with a Dayton 240 watt plate amp. I was supposed to wire it to 8 ohms in series, but I accidentally left it wired to 2 ohms for a Halloween party for 4 hours. It got hot but never shut off. Fast forward to yesterday and I had been using a Avionixx 2000.1D with a power supply to power a Dayton Ultimax 10 DVC 2 ohm at 1 ohm. I switched to my Dayton 240 watt plate amp and my son played it loudly for about 2 hours. Came back in my house and it had shut off, VERY warm. I thought I had killed it, but I unplugged it and let it cool down and it fired right back up at 4 ohms series.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
i need new videos in every 3 days bro you are uploading huge days
Sweet ride bruh..
Thanks dawg
I've been wondering how those amps performed ever since I first saw them
I have owned my SPA500 now for 10 years if that should tell you how well they perform over time. I did not realize it until late and I made a new sub cabinet, but these amps will run 2 ohm as long as you set it correctly. I had my SPA500 hooked to a 10 inch Memphis M3 set to 2 ohm for 9.9 years all because I did not check the impedance before hooking it up. While it could have cooked the amp and it would have been my fault the whole way, the amp never faltered and played strong every time.
@@TMouse-hd5jb i would probably still run the 1000 at 8ohms just because of how much power it still makes. maybe 6 ohms if i could find a "rare" driver
That’s a great DIY sub amp! Just needs a pop kill circuit...
Next amp you have to test is one of the NEW ROCKVILLE DB COMP CEA rated not some magic rms watt rating. There's a 3500 cea rms watt with a built in volt meter for $349 and also for $299 the 3000 cea rms watt Rockville DB Comp!! Both will be nice I just can tell I've seen a demo of the 3000 and it was good👍
It doesn't have a soft start relay, you can add one if you're handy with the soldering iron ...
What you really need is a speaker pertection board with that soft start then your problem is solved like your thinking 👌✌️👍😉🤔
I can't believe you have an Infinity perfect. Those things are like diamonds in a rough these days. I had four of them and wish I kept the two that didn't eventually blow out after 15 years of play. I wish I could find a pair of these 12's but they're impossible to find and no one wants to get rid of them
Nice video very informative
Thanks big d wizz for the videos.
Love the car at the end.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@wal any time. I appreciate your straight forward and honest approach with what you are doing. You have definitely stopped me from making some disappointing purchases.
Does this sound better than a class D and how much power this must use
Please test some of the the professional Peavey amps like the PV2600.
More testing of professional amps would be awesome!
Installed mine in a 4th order bandpass with 2 American bass 300w rms 8s and it absolutely tore the amp apart with the lower frequencies. After a couple months of use it started cutting in and out and the pots started making noises when tuning the amp. Needless to say it's replacement has never gone into any inclosure
I've had this amp driving a TC Sounds Epic 12" in a home made 3' cube sealed enclosure for the last 8 years. Never had a problem with it and it literally shakes my entire viewing area. The Epic is a great driver, it seems TC sounds either went out of business or changed ownership or something, because I can no longer find these subs available online. But the Epic is clean, has great transient response and digs below 20hz. The Dayton amp has been solid and problem free for almost an entire decade! It's the first Dayton product I've even bought, and so far the brand has impressed me. Very curious to check out there ultimax and HO subs.
CT sounds is still around. So I found 2 klipsch SPL-150SW in the dumpster about 2 weeks ago. The boxes were trashed . I finally took it apart to inspect before plugging anything in. Both subs work perfectly , and one amp. The bad amp powers on , no bad caps, but like I said this person threw it around and it's missing the toggle switches and whatever is damaged internally. I'm contemplating on bringing the amp to be serviced or going a whole different route. Currently I'm running a infinity CSW-10 and it's a great sub but getting them lows would be killer! I already in plans to build a box out of birch and I'm thinking of doing a sealed box then original spec of it being ported. Idk way to many projects and suddenly I'm wanting to fiddle with this , when I still have a 13 W7 I bought 6 years ago still in its box(I gave up on car audio because of thieves)
Good grief I'm totally dyslexic. TC/ CT 😆 🤣
@@Stupid_you_so_stoopid_UHF My amp finally went out on me about 8 months ago, I kept the Epic but got an HSU Research 15" prebuilt for the home theatre now.
@@MadClowdz thanks for the reply . Yeah I think I'm going to dabble around and see what I can find. I'll probably just bring the plate to someone to have it serviced. Might as well, bring some other items there too. . I got way too much gear 😆.
my problem with some of these are that they ahve a built in subsonic filter. where they cut off lower than 30hz.... i was wondering if there is a way to bypass that... so u can get ur ultra lowbass for home theatre
I do not believe this one has a subsonic filter, but I’ve seen some on PE listed with these filters and I believe they are intended for pro audio use
I have the rack mount version of this amp (sa1000) it has a switch on the back you can turn off or on the subsonic filter. It also has the turn off thump. I leave it on. Honestly I think rack mount is the way to go. Never been a fan of mounting an amp to a enclosure.
@@oneway7412 rack mount is always the way to go!
"can be better"
it also lacks of rca output for sats (senseless choice). Hope they will add this feature in conjuction with high pass filter and subsonic filter
Could u test the sure electronics 200w amp form parts express
Great to see the hotrod out and about. Seen it in a lot of your videos sitting in the background. Would love to know more about it.
I’m planning an update video 👌
@@wal that's brilliant. Thankyou.
Funny how this plate amp beats most of the car amps who tend to lie a lot about their power ratings especially since Dayton's amp is considered a budget low end unit in the audiophile community.
What do you recommend for a plate amp ? I got 2 klipsch SPL-150SW for nothing