Great explanation. Had the same issue on my bobcat 553 with the d1105 kubota that I swapped a d1105 turbo from a reel mower. Mine ended not have a ground at the plug and was able to find the problem!
Thank you so much Steve,this saved me so much time,Exactly what I needed,like other comments I thought one wire was ground!!!!spent Two evenings trying to figure this out,really appreciate this video
Steve. Big thanks for this. My Doosan compressor has the same engine. Couldn't figure the rattling solenoid. My original solenoid burned out. I traced the wires back and found that the run always circuit was routed through a temp switch that had gone bad and was stuck open so no 12v feed to the always on side of the solenoid. Obviously a way to shut off the fuel if the compressor overheated. The new solenoid (very cheap from Aliexpress) was doing the rattling thing until I restored the always on feed by joining the switch wires temporaraly. Weird wiring ok whoever thought of it.. Big thanks again, you The Man :-) As an afternote, its not easy to refit the solenoid. The little shaft has to be located into a recess inside the hole it goes into. It took me a few goes to get it right. Fit nearest bolt and try, if ok fit other (harder) one. You will know its wrong because the engine will smoke baddd. Hope this helpd someone else. Charlie
Well done brother. I have the same problem on my Kubota generator on my sailboat. Wired exactly as you described. Couldn’t figure out why they wired the thing with two 12 leads either. Thanks to your video now I know what to check for. Thanks man.
That was amazing to see! Have you ever thought of being an investigative reporter? Wait! A better ides...volunteer to work with the scientists who are trying to develop a vaccine for corona virus! Awesome talent right there! You teach like the pro that you are! The whiteboard was a great teaching tool.
I think this may have just clued me in on what is going on with my kubota powered exmark. I bought it as a non starting mower. I wondered what the hell that clicking was. Im going to look into this as soon as i get home
Thanks Steve! I'm just starting to try to figure out an issue on my Kubota-based engine on my sailboat. Trying to figure out how the stop solenoid and starting relays function. This information is helpful and very motivating!
Hi Steve we are having the same problem as this but on a Donkey forklift with a kubota D1105 engine, hoping this has shone a light on what we need to look for, as you said couldnt find anything on the net related to this problem until now, so thanks for the vid and info
That certainly could have the same solenoid setup. But if I remember right when I was knee deep in that kubota, there were a couple of wiring designs kubota used specifically on their equipment. I would think the forklift company would design that control as simple as possible.
The starter is hooked directly to the battery - that would be a hot at all times connection. How is the starter wired for you to have a key on only? Signal wire comes from the key and is not main power feed to operate the starter. Alternators will also commonly charge the system through the starter power wire which is typically routed to battery positive and hot at all times What I’m getting at is how is that primary coil not on at all times according to your diagram ?
I have the 2006 Kubota RTV900 Worksite model. The fuel stop solenoid wiring diagram is clearly shown in the RTV900 Workshop Manual, page 8-M1 Electrical System Wiring Diagram. I can't imagine that it would not be shown on the equivalent wiring diagram for 2007 RTV1100 or the WSM for any of the other RTV models.
Just found your channel. I also have a 2007 1100 that cranks but won't start . I suspect it is a fuel delivery problem, but no diagnosis as of yet. Gonna check the solenoid and fuses you just mentioned. Cool video
Thanks frank! Easy to check fuel going into the high pressure pump from mechanical pump. Then if that's a go, crack open a line on top of the pump and see if you have pressure there. No pressure could be the solenoid, the rack stuck closed, bad pump.. I just had to rebuild that pump. Broke all the springs in it. Tons of good videos on it.
@@franktirelli there is a rubber hose on top of the high pressure fuel injection pump. Probably 1/4 inch rubber hose. Follow it down to the mechanical pump.
@@StevesBeyondRepair after the fuel filter is a little can looking device with a small lever on it that that can be manually actuated. It is connected to the engine in close proximity to the lower oil fill cap. I guess I better get a service manual so I can more easily identify the parts.
Steve, wish you could do a video on wiring a bypass electric fuel pump in. Hubby working to get a used 1100 going for us. Can’t figure out it. Works great straight run to battery. How to bypass wire through starter solenoid? Other videos block the view or skip the subject. Appreciate all help. 🤷 Nana Margie
I have a 2014 Kubota side by side 1120D and it will start after priming the fuel but will not stay running,still trying to figure out what's wrong with it.any suggestions
Sounds like your mechanical fuel pump. You can see it there where the line from fuel tank goes to it, then goes to the injection pump. I dont remember my kubota having a primer bulb. My kubota diesel in my bobcat does tho. How are you priming it?
@@StevesBeyondRepair it has a little lever on it that is built from the factory do you can prime it in case you run it out of fuel,thanks for getting back to me.have not checked any fuses but it does run but will not stay running and after it stalls out the fuel filter bowl is full
Yes sir. That is for priming the fuel pump if you run out of fuel. Fuel pump is not very good at pushing air. It should have a fuel line from tank to primer, primer to pump, pump to high pressure injector pump. Prime it, take line off high pressure injection pump and see if while you crank it over, fuel should pulse out of the line you took off, coming from low pressure pump.
@@StevesBeyondRepair not working on it at the moment but I will try that and see what happens,makes sense to me,thanks for the suggestion before I send it to the dealer for high dollar fix
Do you think it could be a a fuel selinoid ? I pulled the line off the mechanical fuel pump and cranked the engine over and it looked like it had fuel flow. I have to change fuel filter and see that the small rubber o ring is installed correctly. It will run when primed like it's not getting fuel flow
Yep... on this style. The initial click on happens with the big main winding magnet to pull it in, then the second wire is to a light winding that just keeps it in the open position. It does not have the ability to activate the solenoid, only keep it energized and open.
Both wires test positive for 12v with the key on and i get nothing. Pretty sure the solenoid isn't working. Pulling it out right now and I'll bench test it
@@tomh7871 that's correct. Both wires come from separate fuses as well. One is lower amp, one is higher. My lower amp "hold" wire was ate up from mice. So when key on, it would click on, then would immediately release off as there was no power to the hold wire. I initially thought one was 12v and one was negative. Not on this one.😁
Steve, wish you could do a video on wiring an electric bypass fuel pump motor in. Hubby is struggling to get a used 1100 running for us. Have schematics but they don’t help. Works when he straight wires to battery. How to permanent wire?? Can’t figure it.🤷 Nana Margie
I think under the seat area where the wire harness is, I would separate part of the harness to gain access to the wires individually. Then with a test light find a wire that has 12v with key on only. Tie into that wire to power the electric pump.
A SOLUTION: A friend of mine has a Kubota diesel garden tractor of some sort, not sure what model, and a couple of years ago he came to me with this problem where he could not shut off the tractor (engine). This appears to be what you are talking about here. My friend wanted to know if I could design a circuit that would engage the tractor's fuel-shut-off solenoid so that when the key is turned off the tractor engine would quit by starving it of fuel. Which, he told me, is how it actually worked - as originally designed - until the original circuit/board/module went bad after which - try as he might - he could not find a replacement fuel-shut-off board/module. So I accepted the design challenge ... which is engaging the fuel-shut-off solenoid (applying voltage to it) with the key off long enough to starve the engine of fuel (thereby stopping it). The trick is to not engage the solenoid for too long which could - at the very least; a) drain the solenoid-engaging power source (the tractor battery ?? or other battery source?) and/or b) possibly run excessive current through the solenoid coil and damage it. So, to cut to the chase on this, I ended up designing two different self-contained circuits (both use tractor battery power very briefly to power the solenoid) to shut down the tractor engine within 5 - 7 seconds of key-off. My friend tried both and then settled on the smaller solid-state version rather than the larger relay version, and he's used it successfully ever since. If anyone is interested in acquiring this solution, let me know via email at cactusreedllc@gmail.com. If there is enough interest I'll look into manufacturing these designs.
@@StevesBeyondRepair mine starts but will not stay running after priming the system, have not checked the mechanical fuel pump yet like you told me to do a while back
Great explanation. Had the same issue on my bobcat 553 with the d1105 kubota that I swapped a d1105 turbo from a reel mower. Mine ended not have a ground at the plug and was able to find the problem!
Thank you so much Steve,this saved me so much time,Exactly what I needed,like other comments I thought one wire was ground!!!!spent Two evenings trying to figure this out,really appreciate this video
Thank you so much for the nice words!
Steve.
Big thanks for this.
My Doosan compressor has the same engine. Couldn't figure the rattling solenoid.
My original solenoid burned out. I traced the wires back and found that the run always circuit
was routed through a temp switch that had gone bad
and was stuck open so no 12v feed to the always on side of the solenoid.
Obviously a way to shut off the fuel if the compressor overheated.
The new solenoid (very cheap from Aliexpress) was doing the rattling thing
until I restored the always on feed by joining the switch wires temporaraly.
Weird wiring ok whoever thought of it..
Big thanks again, you The Man :-)
As an afternote, its not easy to refit the solenoid.
The little shaft has to be located into a recess inside the hole it goes into.
It took me a few goes to get it right. Fit nearest bolt and try, if ok fit other (harder) one.
You will know its wrong because the engine will smoke baddd.
Hope this helpd someone else. Charlie
Charlie, you are so right!! that solenoid is a booger bear to get back in correctly!!
Wow, Steve....that will really save some detective work for anyone having that problem. You are so smart!!
Well done brother.
I have the same problem on my Kubota generator on my sailboat. Wired exactly as you described. Couldn’t figure out why they wired the thing with two 12 leads either.
Thanks to your video now I know what to check for.
Thanks man.
Thanks Roger!!
That was amazing to see! Have you ever thought of being an investigative reporter? Wait! A better ides...volunteer to work with the scientists who are trying to develop a vaccine for corona virus! Awesome talent right there! You teach like the pro that you are! The whiteboard was a great teaching tool.
I think this may have just clued me in on what is going on with my kubota powered exmark. I bought it as a non starting mower. I wondered what the hell that clicking was. Im going to look into this as soon as i get home
let me know what you find out!!
Great video, I also assumed one was a ground, took me forever to figure it out.
Thank you. Very helpful. Amazon sells the Woodward solenoid as well.
The Florida pool pump motor repair guy 32750 approved ! that was good info !
Thanks Steve! I'm just starting to try to figure out an issue on my Kubota-based engine on my sailboat. Trying to figure out how the stop solenoid and starting relays function. This information is helpful and very motivating!
very great information Steve!!! This will definitely help me troubleshoot my Kubota Diesel engine on my stump grinder. Thanks dude!!
You bet! Thanks for the compliments!
Thx for your time Steve, drawings were very very helpful to ...
Awesome! Thank you!
My ZD 1211 diesel Kubota mower is doing the same thing! Thanks for the info
Hi Steve we are having the same problem as this but on a Donkey forklift with a kubota D1105 engine, hoping this has shone a light on what we need to look for, as you said couldnt find anything on the net related to this problem until now, so thanks for the vid and info
That certainly could have the same solenoid setup. But if I remember right when I was knee deep in that kubota, there were a couple of wiring designs kubota used specifically on their equipment. I would think the forklift company would design that control as simple as possible.
I had same bang headache seen wiring diagram in photo saw this video and hey 👋 completely satisfied my head
Really Great Video !! My bobcat T300 works with the same kinda fuel solenoid principle.
The starter is hooked directly to the battery - that would be a hot at all times connection. How is the starter wired for you to have a key on only? Signal wire comes from the key and is not main power feed to operate the starter.
Alternators will also commonly charge the system through the starter power wire which is typically routed to battery positive and hot at all times
What I’m getting at is how is that primary coil not on at all times according to your diagram ?
that diagram i drew was for the fuel stop solenoid not the starter solenoid.👍
I have the 2006 Kubota RTV900 Worksite model. The fuel stop solenoid wiring diagram is clearly shown in the RTV900 Workshop Manual, page 8-M1 Electrical System Wiring Diagram. I can't imagine that it would not be shown on the equivalent wiring diagram for 2007 RTV1100 or the WSM for any of the other RTV models.
I Googled and googled!!
Just found your channel. I also have a 2007 1100 that cranks but won't start . I suspect it is a fuel delivery problem, but no diagnosis as of yet. Gonna check the solenoid and fuses you just mentioned. Cool video
Thanks frank! Easy to check fuel going into the high pressure pump from mechanical pump. Then if that's a go, crack open a line on top of the pump and see if you have pressure there. No pressure could be the solenoid, the rack stuck closed, bad pump.. I just had to rebuild that pump. Broke all the springs in it. Tons of good videos on it.
@@StevesBeyondRepair just getting into this, but where is the mechanical pump located?
@@franktirelli there is a rubber hose on top of the high pressure fuel injection pump. Probably 1/4 inch rubber hose. Follow it down to the mechanical pump.
@@StevesBeyondRepair after the fuel filter is a little can looking device with a small lever on it that that can be manually actuated. It is connected to the engine in close proximity to the lower oil fill cap. I guess I better get a service manual so I can more easily identify the parts.
@@StevesBeyondRepair hi Steve. So how do you actually check if the mechanical pump is working?
We have a McCormick utility tractor and we cant find info neither . All sites lead to buying the manual for 50.
Exactly!!! It just crazy the lack of info out there for our stuff!!
Excellent video great information
Great information sir thank you
Steve, wish you could do a video on wiring a bypass electric fuel pump in. Hubby working to get a used 1100 going for us. Can’t figure out it. Works great straight run to battery. How to bypass wire through starter solenoid? Other videos block the view or skip the subject. Appreciate all help.
🤷
Nana Margie
I have a 2014 Kubota side by side 1120D and it will start after priming the fuel but will not stay running,still trying to figure out what's wrong with it.any suggestions
Sounds like your mechanical fuel pump. You can see it there where the line from fuel tank goes to it, then goes to the injection pump. I dont remember my kubota having a primer bulb. My kubota diesel in my bobcat does tho. How are you priming it?
@@StevesBeyondRepair it has a little lever on it that is built from the factory do you can prime it in case you run it out of fuel,thanks for getting back to me.have not checked any fuses but it does run but will not stay running and after it stalls out the fuel filter bowl is full
Yes sir. That is for priming the fuel pump if you run out of fuel. Fuel pump is not very good at pushing air. It should have a fuel line from tank to primer, primer to pump, pump to high pressure injector pump. Prime it, take line off high pressure injection pump and see if while you crank it over, fuel should pulse out of the line you took off, coming from low pressure pump.
@@StevesBeyondRepair not working on it at the moment but I will try that and see what happens,makes sense to me,thanks for the suggestion before I send it to the dealer for high dollar fix
Do you think it could be a a fuel selinoid ? I pulled the line off the mechanical fuel pump and cranked the engine over and it looked like it had fuel flow. I have to change fuel filter and see that the small rubber o ring is installed correctly. It will run when primed like it's not getting fuel flow
Thanks for this. Now if i were to hotwire 12v to both wires for troubleshooting it should open unless the solenoid is actually shot?
Yep... on this style. The initial click on happens with the big main winding magnet to pull it in, then the second wire is to a light winding that just keeps it in the open position. It does not have the ability to activate the solenoid, only keep it energized and open.
Both wires test positive for 12v with the key on and i get nothing. Pretty sure the solenoid isn't working. Pulling it out right now and I'll bench test it
@@tomh7871 that's correct. Both wires come from separate fuses as well. One is lower amp, one is higher. My lower amp "hold" wire was ate up from mice. So when key on, it would click on, then would immediately release off as there was no power to the hold wire. I initially thought one was 12v and one was negative. Not on this one.😁
It bench tests good. So in theory the fuel should be on with the solenoid removed?
I'm still cant get fuel to the injectors
Steve, wish you could do a video on wiring an electric bypass fuel pump motor in. Hubby is struggling to get a used 1100 running for us. Have schematics but they don’t help. Works when he straight wires to battery. How to permanent wire?? Can’t figure it.🤷
Nana Margie
I think under the seat area where the wire harness is, I would separate part of the harness to gain access to the wires individually. Then with a test light find a wire that has 12v with key on only. Tie into that wire to power the electric pump.
A SOLUTION:
A friend of mine has a Kubota diesel garden tractor of some sort, not sure what model, and a couple of years ago he came to me with this problem where he could not shut off the tractor (engine). This appears to be what you are talking about here. My friend wanted to know if I could design a circuit that would engage the tractor's fuel-shut-off solenoid so that when the key is turned off the tractor engine would quit by starving it of fuel. Which, he told me, is how it actually worked - as originally designed - until the original circuit/board/module went bad after which - try as he might - he could not find a replacement fuel-shut-off board/module. So I accepted the design challenge ... which is engaging the fuel-shut-off solenoid (applying voltage to it) with the key off long enough to starve the engine of fuel (thereby stopping it). The trick is to not engage the solenoid for too long which could - at the very least; a) drain the solenoid-engaging power source (the tractor battery ?? or other battery source?) and/or b) possibly run excessive current through the solenoid coil and damage it. So, to cut to the chase on this, I ended up designing two different self-contained circuits (both use tractor battery power very briefly to power the solenoid) to shut down the tractor engine within 5 - 7 seconds of key-off. My friend tried both and then settled on the smaller solid-state version rather than the larger relay version, and he's used it successfully ever since. If anyone is interested in acquiring this solution, let me know via email at cactusreedllc@gmail.com. If there is enough interest I'll look into manufacturing these designs.
Wonder if the selonoid is similar on my 2014 model
They changed design and wiring thru the years. Not sure.
@@StevesBeyondRepair mine starts but will not stay running after priming the system, have not checked the mechanical fuel pump yet like you told me to do a while back
Thanks
Good explain sir
They can also stick and starve to engine from fuel