Just diagnosed my son car, a buick Verano battery only had 320cc amps supposed to be 525cc amp. Had the whole family over for Thanksgiving supper tonight. It was a wonderful evening. TC Mahalo Tinman 🤙🤙🤙 Ps. I fired you off an email, just an FYI email.
Note: old man 73. Have tools. When trucks had carburators & distributers. E. F. I. left me behind. In your early 60s find an honest responsible mechanic. Believe me you'll use em. $50.00 American cost for an oil change at my guys shop. Costs me $48.00 to buy oil etc. Like I said find an honest /reliable mechanic. You will use em when your old.
Research and diagnosis . I once had a Alternator charging @ 12.7 volts. Would kill a battery in 15 minutes. Though the battery was bad. Replaced it, dead in 15 minutes. Diodes blew out on the Alternator, charging straight to ground. I am no mechanic, by no means. Visual inspection will tell you alot. Have a great evening 😀
One thing I would highly recommend is changing those battery terminals and put some battery terminal grease/lubricant to prevent any corrosion from forming..Also clean up all the chassis and engine grounding points..Any corrosion in the cables will cause a higher resistance which in turn causes a voltage drop and could possibly be a reason why your engine is cranking over slower..
If we don't have a diagram for the belt, always remember the smooth side of the belt always fits on a smooth pulley and the grooved pulley's always fit on the grooved pully's and you will never go wrong.
Not sure if yours has it. But when you move the tensioner they have a little lever on it and when you remove the tensioner you push the lever and take release the tensioner. It holds tension off while you change the belt, alternator etc… My 01 7.3 has it and my 6.0 has it too.
There is your problem, 11.72 will not charge your batteries, a normal alternator will charge at 13.4 -13.7 volts when the battery reaches the load limit the alternator through the voltage regulator will dump excess voltage to a heat sink Transistor which will dump excess voltage so you don’t cook your battery with too much voltage.
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Compared to many alternator replacements that one would be considered a dream installation. Very nice.
Great video Tinman! Those older rigs are awesome to work on. Thanks for this vid! Good stuff.
Your talents know no limits, my friend!
Great instructional video👍🏻 and much easier to replace than on your old tundra!
Vacation is over time to get back to fixing things 😂. Nice fix on your truck 👍👍
Just diagnosed my son car, a buick Verano battery only had 320cc amps supposed to be 525cc amp. Had the whole family over for Thanksgiving supper tonight. It was a wonderful evening. TC Mahalo Tinman 🤙🤙🤙
Ps. I fired you off an email, just an FYI email.
Note: old man 73. Have tools. When trucks had carburators & distributers. E. F. I. left me behind. In your early 60s find an honest responsible mechanic. Believe me you'll use em. $50.00 American cost for an oil change at my guys shop. Costs me $48.00 to buy oil etc. Like I said find an honest /reliable mechanic. You will use em when your old.
Glad to see you made it home safely
Research and diagnosis . I once had a Alternator charging @ 12.7 volts. Would kill a battery in 15 minutes. Though the battery was bad. Replaced it, dead in 15 minutes. Diodes blew out on the Alternator, charging straight to ground. I am no mechanic, by no means. Visual inspection will tell you alot. Have a great evening 😀
Always disconnect the negative terminal first, you don’t want to short your wrench to ground when undoing the live.
Nothing like being able fix something and getting it back to working order. Hope you and the family are doing well!
One thing I would highly recommend is changing those battery terminals and put some battery terminal grease/lubricant to prevent any corrosion from forming..Also clean up all the chassis and engine grounding points..Any corrosion in the cables will cause a higher resistance which in turn causes a voltage drop and could possibly be a reason why your engine is cranking over slower..
If we don't have a diagram for the belt, always remember the smooth side of the belt always fits on a smooth pulley and the grooved pulley's always fit on the grooved pully's and you will never go wrong.
Great video…
Make sure you buy the gear reduction starter or a 6.0 starter I believe they are compatible and gear reduced …
Hey Tinman.! Weird you making this video. I just lost alternator in my 2007 Honda accord and my 2004 ford expedition. Great explanation
Nice video! Have a 05 with the 6 leaker, witch is great after fixing the factory issues, but they have to have the voltage!
Excellent video thank you Sir!
Ahhh, two batteries. Good truck.
Thank you, really cool.
Tools pay for themselves by saving labor costs. TH-cam can tell you how to fix anything just might get a little dirt under your fingernails
Not sure if yours has it. But when you move the tensioner they have a little lever on it and when you remove the tensioner you push the lever and take release the tensioner. It holds tension off while you change the belt, alternator etc… My 01 7.3 has it and my 6.0 has it too.
You can measure if it sends an ac current, if so it’s the rectifier that has given up.
Normally there should be no ac current.
Tinman I've have too much crap too remember.57 have crs disease. Think I'll make it maybe appreciate some help. Thanks
Good batteries
There is your problem, 11.72 will not charge your batteries, a normal alternator will charge at 13.4 -13.7 volts when the battery reaches the load limit the alternator through the voltage regulator will dump excess voltage to a heat sink Transistor which will dump excess voltage so you don’t cook your battery with too much voltage.
About tools, the money you save on the jobs by DIY, you can spend on the tools to do the job, (If you're not Lazy of course)
Brother, I have been there before on my 95 7.3
How's the Tinman and family