Yes it can be done as you state, I prefer to unhook the linkage at the carb especially on older models where the plastic could be more brittle to prevent any breakage of plastic components that would create an even larger issue costing me money.
While your procedure may work in some cases, a good 50 to 70% of the time you will not get the desired result you are wanting due to the carb having a restriction in a passage that you can not get cleaned out or like in other cases the carb having no low speed adjustment to compensate for the ware in the engine due to the amount of use they have seen (this was an early EPA carb) among a couple other causes This video is for those individuals who either want to choose an easy replacement to save time or do not have the knowledge \skills, tools or time to mess with the disassembly and cleaning which may or may not fix the issue.
This particularly carb was Branded Stihl and with the lack of access to adjust the Idle adjustment I'm sure this was the original carb. I do know the Coustomer and it is VERY unlikely that he changed it out but I am not the only shop to have worked on this saw, it wound up in my shop because the Stihl Dealer told him it was unfixable. There is a boss cast into the carb for a idle circut adjustment but was never utilized on this carb. I seen a few of these older 017's with the non adjustable EPA carbs like this over the years.
Well done Craig.. I liked that solution From the look of the bar that saw had little done and was distant from early retirement☺.what caused original carb to stop working or was it only the fact it could not be re tuned...there's to many variables for correct carburation not to have adjustability...tut tut to stihl...
Yes Nicky this saw has very little use on it, Not quite sure what the issue is but the saw passed a pressure/vacuum test 100%. My thinking is it had a little piece of dirt, or Ethanol setting in the carb for an extended period of time or just the gas drying up. I absolutely hate these EPA carbs. It just blows my mind that the Authorized Stihl dealer told the customer that they could not fix the saw.
Trying to get this throttle cable back on is nothing short of a nightmare 😫., man u make that saw look like a little toy , I'm 6,1 and over 260lbs and my saw doesn't look that small. The dummy that put that idle screw bracket in the way of the throttle cable wasn't installing carbs on these
Chad, In this Video I'm 6'1 and pushing 270, I've lost a few pounds since then but still push 250. I agree that some of these smaller saws are a pain in the but to work on. I always like to say that Engineers have no common sense when ther design some of this stuff.
This is an aftermarket carb made by Farmertech that I purchased from Huztl.net for around $5.00 plus shipping if I remember but is also available on Amazon The part # is PJ18014 hope this helps
Craig Timmons thanks for sharing. I just restored my dads 017 but all it needs is the carb you listed. Do you think I could drive a 16” bar and chain? It originally had a 14”.
I just inherited my dads old ms017, just like you.. I have set myself a goal to get it started.. I have my own 261 c-m so i really dont need it, but it was supposed to be a fun project.. After dissembling the entire shit, cleaning it up i started installing new parts. . .New carb, new oil filter and hose, new fuel filter and hose, new air filter, removed the spark arrestor completely, new spark plug. Would it start? Nope.. Not even close.. Sore shoulder for 2 days after giving it my all.... The piston does not looked scored at all.. I guess its down to a compression problem..? I keep reminding myself im doing this of own choice, and i really do enjoy it. But boy is it fucking annoying when it wont start..
That's so interesting, I just had an MS 170 on my bench a few days ago with similar issues. I pulled the spark arrestor screen and it was clogged. Was not my saw so I kept it original. I did not care for that shitty air filter set up one bit.
It could be a multitude of issues, fuel filter plugged, fuel line sucking air, fuel tank vent plugged, air/vacuum leak, bad spark plug, dirty air filter, the rings could even be worn out causing this and then the new carb could be bad I've seen this happen especially if your useing a aftermarket carb.
That is made in China for Stihl and costs $179! Not any better than a Poulan Pro IMHO. I wish that people wouldn’t buy these saws and there wouldn’t be a market for these worthless turds that are obviously overpriced because it says Stihl on it. For no more power than this saw has at 30cc it would be smarter to buy a battery saw and not deal with fuel and carb issues. I would drive past that worthless Stihl dealership and not give them any more of your hard earned money!
@@andybecker2693 Poulan Pro? LMAO You are right Andy Becker all of the pro loggers and tree service guys using husqvarna and stihl saws are wrong, they should be using a walmart saw. I have a stihl 017 that I love! I got from it the dump for free because someone like you, with no mechanical ability thought it was junk and threw it away. After an hour of work cleaning and tuning, it has started first or second pull every time for the last 2 years. Poulan Pro is garbage. You'd be better off buying the cheapest gas saw on amazon. Sorry Andy
Thank for this video Craig!
The handle unclips easily and you can pull the throttle linkage away with the carby I've got big club fingers and found this way was very easy
Yes it can be done as you state,
I prefer to unhook the linkage at the carb especially on older models where the plastic could be more brittle to prevent any breakage of plastic components that would create an even larger issue costing me money.
If you take the carb apart and adjes the metering lever and check and adjust the pop-off pressure you can solvethe bogging
While your procedure may work in some cases, a good
50 to 70% of the time you will not get the desired result you are wanting due to the carb having a restriction in a passage that you can not get cleaned out or like in other cases the carb having no low speed adjustment to compensate for the ware in the engine due to the amount of use they have seen (this was an early EPA carb) among a couple other causes
This video is for those individuals who either want to choose an easy replacement to save time or do not have the knowledge \skills, tools or time to mess with the disassembly and cleaning which may or may not fix the issue.
Original carb has an air adj screw & it's possible it might've adjusted out. Done a few of these.
This particularly carb was Branded Stihl and with the lack of access to adjust the Idle adjustment I'm sure this was the original carb.
I do know the Coustomer and it is VERY unlikely that he changed it out but I am not the only shop to have worked on this saw, it wound up in my shop because the Stihl Dealer told him it was unfixable.
There is a boss cast into the carb for a idle circut adjustment but was never utilized on this carb.
I seen a few of these older 017's with the non adjustable EPA carbs like this over the years.
Well done Craig..
I liked that solution From the look of the bar that saw had little done and was distant from early retirement☺.what caused original carb to stop working or was it only the fact it could not be re tuned...there's to many variables for correct carburation not to have adjustability...tut tut to stihl...
Yes Nicky this saw has very little use on it, Not quite sure what the issue is but the saw passed a pressure/vacuum test 100%. My thinking is it had a little piece of dirt, or Ethanol setting in the carb for an extended period of time or just the gas drying up. I absolutely hate these EPA carbs.
It just blows my mind that the Authorized Stihl dealer told the customer that they could not fix the saw.
Trying to get this throttle cable back on is nothing short of a nightmare 😫., man u make that saw look like a little toy , I'm 6,1 and over 260lbs and my saw doesn't look that small. The dummy that put that idle screw bracket in the way of the throttle cable wasn't installing carbs on these
Chad, In this Video I'm 6'1 and pushing 270, I've lost a few pounds since then but still push 250.
I agree that some of these smaller saws are a pain in the but to work on.
I always like to say that Engineers have no common sense when ther design some of this stuff.
the problem here is not a clogged carb, the carb has leaking welch plugs thats why u get no high end
Interesting insight I never even give that a thought I'll check that out. Thanks
headlamps
What carb did you get and Oder ?
This has been a day or two, but more than likely it was either a Walbro WT-325a
or an aftermarket from Farmertec # PJ18014.
Craig, what is the part number for the after market carb? I need to replace my carb.
This is an aftermarket carb made by Farmertech that I purchased from Huztl.net for around $5.00 plus shipping if I remember but is also available on Amazon
The part # is PJ18014 hope this helps
Craig Timmons thanks for sharing. I just restored my dads 017 but all it needs is the carb you listed. Do you think I could drive a 16” bar and chain? It originally had a 14”.
@@kg1966 It should as long as you keep the rpm's up and don't lay on it just let the saw do the work you should be fine.
Great video! Thank you
I just inherited my dads old ms017, just like you.. I have set myself a goal to get it started.. I have my own 261 c-m so i really dont need it, but it was supposed to be a fun project..
After dissembling the entire shit, cleaning it up i started installing new parts. . .New carb, new oil filter and hose, new fuel filter and hose, new air filter, removed the spark arrestor completely, new spark plug. Would it start? Nope.. Not even close.. Sore shoulder for 2 days after giving it my all.... The piston does not looked scored at all.. I guess its down to a compression problem..? I keep reminding myself im doing this of own choice, and i really do enjoy it. But boy is it fucking annoying when it wont start..
That's so interesting, I just had an MS 170 on my bench a few days ago with similar issues. I pulled the spark arrestor screen and it was clogged. Was not my saw so I kept it original. I did not care for that shitty air filter set up one bit.
remove throttle from handle area FIRST
Yes you can do it that way but you really don't need to, just take your time and get it into that sweet spot and the linkage will fall right out.
Mine does same thing with a brand new carb. Any idea
It could be a multitude of issues, fuel filter plugged, fuel line sucking air, fuel tank vent plugged, air/vacuum leak, bad spark plug, dirty air filter, the rings could even be worn out causing this and then the new carb could be bad I've seen this happen especially if your useing a aftermarket carb.
@@craigtimmons3468 i was able to diagnose it the other week i took everything apart and tge fuel line had collapsed
@@isaiahslawncare8600 I'm glad to hear you finally got it figured out, issues like yours will drive you Ape Shi*t
That is made in China for Stihl and costs $179! Not any better than a Poulan Pro IMHO. I wish that people wouldn’t buy these saws and there wouldn’t be a market for these worthless turds that are obviously overpriced because it says Stihl on it. For no more power than this saw has at 30cc it would be smarter to buy a battery saw and not deal with fuel and carb issues. I would drive past that worthless Stihl dealership and not give them any more of your hard earned money!
@@andybecker2693 Poulan Pro? LMAO You are right Andy Becker all of the pro loggers and tree service guys using husqvarna and stihl saws are wrong, they should be using a walmart saw. I have a stihl 017 that I love! I got from it the dump for free because someone like you, with no mechanical ability thought it was junk and threw it away. After an hour of work cleaning and tuning, it has started first or second pull every time for the last 2 years. Poulan Pro is garbage. You'd be better off buying the cheapest gas saw on amazon. Sorry Andy