Showing more broken bolt extraction and a normal small job I do on a regular basis. This is a big weakness of a Kuhn cutter I've had to fix this on 3 different cutters in the past.
millwright welder here, great job i have used this practice 100's of times but with a small change. i use a washer over the broken stud area before any amount of welding, allows easier arc start and protects the first few threads of the hole.
I also weld a washer first and then the nut when the screws break like this. It allows you to make a stronger weld and with the washer you avoid damaging the group. Greetings from Spain
The weld on nut does what mere easy outs cannot. Great to see a video from you. Every time I see that truck I know I am just biding my time and saving my pennies to build one or find a pre owned truck and restore it like you did.
Never been a more timely video. Yesterday I sheared three body mounting bolts on my Triumph TR4A restoration... tried welding on nuts but they just twisted off, so I had planned to start drilling-out today. Watched your video last night and this morning switched to your welded-bolt method. Only 5/16" bolts and MIG, so a lot smaller than yours... one change was to grind a cone on the bolt end before welding to allow for better penetration on the built-up stub. Dug out my rarely used pneumatic impact-wrench and followed your recommended tighten/untighten trick. Result; 100% success. Thanks very much for the practical tip as well as your usual interesting content.
It depends on the situation. As long as there’s no color in it normally you can start hitting on it. Most of the time if you have to let it cool it’s because the threads are still too hot they haven’t shrunk enough.
Here's a thought. Load a carbide spot drill bit and bore down 5/8ths inch. Square the top of the stub, start fill welding, but leave the cavity intact. Build the nugget and apply the extraction bolt as normal, heat the case, then hit only the bolt with a can of compressed air. That will shrink the hot air in the cavity suddenly. Hit it with the impact.
Sometimes what I do is after you weld it cool it with water 💧 the water takes the softness out of the hot 🔥 weld so it doesn't break off as quick but doesn't always work love the content you are hand down a very smart man as my late dad used to say (you could put a copper ass hole in a cat 🐈) 👌💪💪💪
Yup! That's what happens when someone runs it into a fence post, tree or bouncing it to hard. 🤔😉👍Maybe suggest to the owner to weld a swivel wheel post on the free end for a wheel barrel wheel if that will work.
If you don't put grower washer, the bolts will be loosen in no time. I always use grower washer or spring washers and flat washer when needed. Or you could use a little loctite for each bolt.
Hey brother, where are you located here in Mississippi? Been watching your videos for a while now. Like to see you working on the same nasty crap that I'm used to. Take care, Thomas.
Got a NAPA 30 gal Compressor. I don’t know who made it for NAPA but it’s a solid unit 13 horse Honda electric start cast-iron two-stage pump 23 CFM at 175 psi. I’ve had it for a little over a year and I’d buy another one.
When your heating with a torch you tend to only heat a small area.... stop doing that and heat a larger area !.... you had trouble with the first bolt because you probably welded the bolt to the casting.... a cold chisel will brake that part loose.
Great Video! Thank you. When things do not go as planned... I sure learned a lot. You're the best. Experience counts!
millwright welder here, great job i have used this practice 100's of times but with a small change. i use a washer over the broken stud area before any amount of welding, allows easier arc start and protects the first few threads of the hole.
I also weld a washer first and then the nut when the screws break like this. It allows you to make a stronger weld and with the washer you avoid damaging the group. Greetings from Spain
Preparation, patience, and persistence! The three most important tools for doing this kind of work!
1st 3 words are NOTHING like me. Certainly not patience.
The weld on nut does what mere easy outs cannot. Great to see a video from you. Every time I see that truck I know I am just biding my time and saving my pennies to build one or find a pre owned truck and restore it like you did.
Never been a more timely video. Yesterday I sheared three body mounting bolts on my Triumph TR4A restoration... tried welding on nuts but they just twisted off, so I had planned to start drilling-out today. Watched your video last night and this morning switched to your welded-bolt method. Only 5/16" bolts and MIG, so a lot smaller than yours... one change was to grind a cone on the bolt end before welding to allow for better penetration on the built-up stub. Dug out my rarely used pneumatic impact-wrench and followed your recommended tighten/untighten trick.
Result; 100% success. Thanks very much for the practical tip as well as your usual interesting content.
Always happy to hear my experience helping folks out there. The main reason I make content good luck with the rest of your Triumph project.
In my experience, I have had to let the weld cool longer in order to remove the stuck/broken bolt.
I just stumbled onto your videos.
Awesome vids.
It depends on the situation. As long as there’s no color in it normally you can start hitting on it. Most of the time if you have to let it cool it’s because the threads are still too hot they haven’t shrunk enough.
Another great video brother!,,
Love to watch them 👍👍👍
Glad you gave the torque specs on that. I thought it was "as tight as you can get it, then another 1/4 turn".
Here's a thought. Load a carbide spot drill bit and bore down 5/8ths inch. Square the top of the stub, start fill welding, but leave the cavity intact. Build the nugget and apply the extraction bolt as normal, heat the case, then hit only the bolt with a can of compressed air. That will shrink the hot air in the cavity suddenly. Hit it with the impact.
This is what experience gets you! Nice job.
Lots of good ideas to remove bolts. Thanks for sharing, it was easy looking over your shoulder! :-)
Nice to have the boom on any job that needs something lifted
always love your vids , learning something new ever time . thanks
Thank goodness for phone cameras you can document everything
Love the bolt idea !
Sometimes what I do is after you weld it cool it with water 💧 the water takes the softness out of the hot 🔥 weld so it doesn't break off as quick but doesn't always work love the content you are hand down a very smart man as my late dad used to say (you could put a copper ass hole in a cat 🐈) 👌💪💪💪
Brilliant method thanks for sharing your knowledge 🦘👍
Thank you for the video. God Bless!
MM77 Approved 👍🏼👍🏼
Yup! That's what happens when someone runs it into a fence post, tree or bouncing it to hard. 🤔😉👍Maybe suggest to the owner to weld a swivel wheel post on the free end for a wheel barrel wheel if that will work.
When u get it nice and hit with torch try spraying penatrint on it sucks eight up into those rusty threads
If you don't put grower washer, the bolts will be loosen in no time. I always use grower washer or spring washers and flat washer when needed. Or you could use a little loctite for each bolt.
That unit has got to put a lot of twist torque to a three point hitch without some sort of counter-balance and/or an outrigger wheel?
I’ve done this before with success. Why not use a smaller rod?
🤘🤘🤘🤘👌👌👌
Hey brother, where are you located here in Mississippi? Been watching your videos for a while now. Like to see you working on the same nasty crap that I'm used to. Take care, Thomas.
I live in Macon. I was around the Starkville area in this video.
are you using the pipeliner rod because of its fast freeze characteristics?
That’s right you can build so quick and so deep. Work good upside down too.
Hey what kind of air compressor are you running?
Got a NAPA 30 gal Compressor. I don’t know who made it for NAPA but it’s a solid unit 13 horse Honda electric start cast-iron two-stage pump 23 CFM at 175 psi. I’ve had it for a little over a year and I’d buy another one.
Why put a washer down with the nut if you're gonna weld on a fastener to extract?
Putting a washer down First helps you get the nut straighter so you’re less likely to weld to the sides of the hole.
German torque on those bolts. Guduntite! Lol
When your heating with a torch you tend to only heat a small area.... stop doing that and heat a larger area !.... you had trouble with the first bolt because you probably welded the bolt to the casting.... a cold chisel will brake that part loose.
Well done - but you might need a couple of shorter bolts in your kit by the look of it!
7018!!!!😬😬😬😬😬
bro title and vedio not same lol 🎉