I’ve watched many 3-way videos over the last several days and spent so many hours I’ve lost count. First 9 mins of your video and my problem was solved. No one talks about combining the black and white together for the switch. Saved my life. THANK YOU SO MUCH
I just successfully got power to a 3 way dimmer switch/3 way combination witch setup in my house that had HORRIBLY done 1950's electrical, thanks to this setup. Super super thankful for this video, excellently done. Life saver!!
Wanted to say thank you for demonstrating the many ways to wire a 3 way switch! All I could find before your video was a way how to basically wire a 3 way switch. THANK YOU!!!
I've never shared a comment on TH-cam until this, I had this same setup with a 4 wire in between the two 3 wire switches and every video until yours exclaimed a basic line-swtitch-switch-load scenario and I could not get it to work correctly until I watched your video and you explains the switch leg with the black-white on the load had to be spliced together and then just ticked away inside the box. Thank you so much for showing a less common method used to wire 3 way switches, it was immensely helpful.
Great explanation of how to wire a 3 way with power and light from the same box. The only thing I see that should also be done is to wrap the white wire that is hot with black tape in the switch boxes.
Thank you so much this was a very well put together video and answered all of my questions i am truly grateful for the knowledge you just shared with me
Thank you so much. I thought this could be done but every other example did not show both the power coming in and the switch leg in the same box. I thought I really screwed this up - thank you!!
Super great .. Is what exactly I needed to know... I have inspection in 2 days and it's almost midnight and I'm watching all these videos and none of them explain this until I came across to your video.. You are a life saver.. Thanks a lot...👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍💯
Thank you, thank you, thank you!!! I was struggling for hours with a three way switch wired exactly like this. I was going to break down and hire someone until I found your video. Great video!
Great video and hard to find explanation on other TH-cam channels. The only other video I've seen is Electrician U "Three Ways 3-Ways Can Be (3way Switch Wiring - ILLEGAL AND LEGAL METHODS". According to Electrician U, this method is legal and is called a "dead end" three way switch because it can't be extended beyond the last three way switch because there is no neutral. It is a handy setup if you want to add a switch after the framing is done and it is more convenient to bypass the light and go directly to the switch. An example is as adding a switch at the other end of a hall or room addition where there is only a single pole switch on one end. But another disadvantage is many new "smart switches" require a neutral and won't work with this setup.
I'm the same as Scott down below, I'm so grateful for your video I thought I screwed up by not having hot wire on the other side. Your video got my lights on.
Lived with incorrectly wired three way since I purchased this home. This video gave me the correction I needed to make it function correctly. Thank you.
Video was super helpful! Only thing is our 3 way switches had the bronze screws diagonal from each other instead of across. We connected our black and red travel wires on the bronze screws diagonally on both switches, and that did the trick!
In my neck of the woods this method is known as the dead end three way, and I've wired a good handful of these over the years, most commonly on remodel projects where I need to convert a single pole setup into a pair of three ways, sometimes with a 4 way included as well. Other times were in very long hallways on new construction in which the power feed and switch leg are located on the same end of the hall to to speak, I can save some wire. Note that as of 2011 with slight changes over the last 3 code cycles, an available neutral is required to be present in at least one of the switch boxs, because in this day and age, there are a wide variety of electronic switches requiring a neutral for standby power, whereas back in the 1970s when it was a common practice to run the power at light with a two wire switch loop, switches were a simple set of make and break contacts, so having said that the dead end three way method may or may not be code compliant depending on the situation as wel as the AHJ
@@timpalmer-logstolumber1999 Right. Didn't know that back then. Still it's nice to have neutral in both boxes just in case you want an add-on smart switch.
@@aurvaroy6670 we still do them with feeds and sw legs in the same box, but my old company did it with splices on both sides but regardless i think the code we are still useing is the 2017 one because the 2020 one hasnt been accepted
I have been looking for an explanation of this setup for a while. I have seen 3way switches wired this way in the field and I could not fully understand how you could be left with nothing but one 3 wire in one of the boxes. This video was excellent, thank you for making it.
This was very informative. Should have said the 2 travel wires go on the brass screws. My 3 way switches had the brass screws diagonal from each other. Not straight across. Really helped me though.
Yes there are other switches that are not like the ones I use. You have to pay attention to the colors. Silver for neutral, brass for travelers, and black for Hot/switch leg.
Hey man. I normally never comment on videos, but I wanted to let you know that your video was very helpful and it worked beautifully. Thanks for making this easy to understand.
Literally ditto. Tim, you are the man! This helped me install a smart three-way in my old South Philly Home. I couldn't figure out how/why it was wired like this. This is the video I was looking for with an excellent explanation.
I have two different three-way switches. The black common is by itself on one of them and on the other it’s not by itself. Not sure what to do in this case.
@@Otho1001 is the second one feeding another switch or outlet? Is it pig tailed or are both wires hooked to switch? With some more info I could be better able to give you an answer
@@timpalmer-logstolumber1999 no nothing like that, I have two switches, but the terminals are configured differently on each of them. The top brass screw is on the left on one of them and on the right on the other. In the video it says to attach to the screw that is alone on one side. On one switch there is a brass screw that is alone and on the other switch there is the black common screw that is alone.
Not sure if you can answer but, I have an older home I'm renovating with switch loop wiring going into a J box powering basement light fixtures, and also 3 receptacles on the 1st flr. I want to add 3 way 14-3 wire going into two 3 way switches. I will remove the current single pole switch and use the same wiring on the switch onto the 3 way switch so that all fixtures and receptacles continue to work as before, plus add the 3 way wire running from switch to switch.
Awesome video Tim! I have to do this and need to add a 4 way in the third box, but, I can't add a 4 way without a neutral can I? It's considered a dead end at the 2nd switch? :(
@@timpalmer-logstolumber1999 Hey Tim, my setup has the power wire and the power to the light wire in the same switch box. Any way I can use a 4 way to have 3 switch locations in this? 4 wire?
@@traderman4378 yes you can 4 way it. Run a 3 wire to the 2nd box and then the 3rd box. In the first box connect hot wire to switch, the common screw. Then connect black switch leg wire from light to white wire going to box 2. Then white to white going to 3rd box. This is switch leg it connects to switch in box 3. The common screw.
@@timpalmer-logstolumber1999 I don't seem to be getting it. I have a 3 wire coming from a ceiling light to my switch box where I'm putting the 4 way switch. black is the hot, red is the switch leg to light, and the white neutral. You said hook hot to the common, got that. Should I use the black and red from the 3 wire as travelers to 2nd box? Do you mean physically hook the red (switch leg) and white together. If I hook them together I have a 4th terminal with no wire on it? Unless you mean hook them both to the same terminal on the 4 way switch?
In this situation where you have a second, single pole switch in the first box, do you do two pigtails off the black hot wire, one to the bottom right screw of the three way switch and one pigtail to the gold screw of the single pole switch?
The box that has the white as the line wire with only one 12-3 in it has no neutral in it correct? So that box would be impossible to jumper off of to run a new switch and light out of correct? Cause the LED fixture has a hot and neutral wire to hook up to and without it, it just trips the breaker.
Correct, without a neutral there is no circuit and the light will not work. Besides, this method wouldn't actually work in todays world anyway. Code says there MUST be a neutral in EVERY switch box. No neutral = No pass. You would have to use 4 wire instead of 3 wire for the traveler to do what he did in this video. Even though this works, it simply would no longer pass inspection, but I'm not saying it won't work.
@@godmode3359 this is correct if the new code has been adopted in there area. Adoption usually lags behind a few years. Also DIYers working on there own house and not being inspected could still use it.
I followed this video exactly (only difference is I used rocker switches), but my switches face opposite directions when the light is off. Is that expected?
Yeah, functionally I know it doesn’t matter, but I’ve got the switch in a 2-gang box with a 2-way switch, so the off positions aren’t matching. Should I just flip the red and black travelers on the right switch?
u can also tie your neutral in to your hot and use your black wire switch leg to the light for the common on your first switch and use the neutral that was tied into your hot for the common black terminal on the other switch
Depending on the switch, some have the screws in different locations. The swl/hot is a different color screw or marked common. Sorry for not mentioning that.
Great video! How do I install an outlet from a 3 way switch? I need an outlet to power a tv and the three way is the closest to it. Can it be done? thank you!!
If the switch box has power it can be used to power an outlet. Use a pop in box, run a wire from pop in box to switch box. Tie into power and neutral in switch box.
It should work with a dimmer. There are several things that may affect it. A couple of things that may affect it are you using only one dimmer or It may be the type of light bulbs being used. Not all light bulbs work with dimmers.
thank you for your video I used it to install 2 3 way switches in my house. However I can't figure out why the both lights on each individual 3 way switch flicker only when they come on. It does it for a second then is fine. It's a Led/incandescent switch with a incandescent bulb on it. I have the same light bulb and switch on the same circuit in another room and no flicker. I checked all the connections to rule out a loose connection and didn't see anything loose. Any ideas?
Does it actually matter which screw your travelers are on as long as they're on the traveler screws and not the common? So you made your red on the side with the screw by itself, but could the one switch have it like that but the other switch the red be on the screw side that the common was on. Or would it work the same as long as travelers are on traveler screws but not the common screw
@@timpalmer-logstolumber1999 Hi Tim, Great video on this. I have found that if you CROSS the traveler locations of 2 alike 3-way switches, the two 3-ways will still do the job as intended BUT when a 4-way switch is used between the two 3-ways to get THREE switching locations for a light it won't work unless you go back and UN-cross the 2 travelers from the 3-ways so they go to identical traveler terminals as you noted here.
@@bobrub working with high school kids I try to get them to do it the same way each time, they will make less mistakes. Then later I cover other ways because not all switches are the same. Especially from older houses.
Hi Tim. Great video. This is how my house was wired. Question...is there a way to add an additional light to the system between the 2 switches or would it have to be off the existing light? Thanks!
Hello Tim. A great and easy way to add another light to the circuit is by "tapping" into the black/white/ground wires from your existing light. I do this often when I install recess lights around my house.. You can do this several ways, but the most convenient way I like is by using the wago lever nuts which allows you to grab the wires together.
The wire could be yellow or white. It is called a homerun when it leaves the panel to the first item on the circuit. For light, recepts, disposal, dishwasher etc. it is a 2 wire (120volts). A 3 wire if it is for a dryer, stove, A/C etc. (220-240 volts)
problem with no neutral in remote switch, problem could be solved using a xx/4 wire Black, White, Red, Blue , then red and blue used as travelers, Black as the common, to be connected to black-switch, the white would be capped. Also no repurposing the White wire to a hot with black tape.
No, it is weird though... it's a traveling bus 3-way that isn't traveling the bus... like it's a typical or standard 3-way except that he put the load on the first switch instead of the second. Not how most guys wire them but it is valid, just weird. It's generally considered best wiring practice to use the same wiring method as those around you so that it's kinda pseudo standardized and makes things easier for everyone.
The only wires that matter are the switch leg has to be under a black screw on one switch while the other black screw on the other switch holds the power wire. The travelers makes no difference to which screw they are under be it one side or the other.
Yes and No!! You forgot to mention the other end of the switch leg! That is the key to “switching on and off”. The other end of the switch leg MUST be joined with the black wire going directly ‘to the light’ -then the circuit is complete and turning on/off from both switches will work!
I’ve watched many 3-way videos over the last several days and spent so many hours I’ve lost count. First 9 mins of your video and my problem was solved. No one talks about combining the black and white together for the switch. Saved my life. THANK YOU SO MUCH
You are welcome, glad I could help
Same . Ty for the vid
I just successfully got power to a 3 way dimmer switch/3 way combination witch setup in my house that had HORRIBLY done 1950's electrical, thanks to this setup. Super super thankful for this video, excellently done. Life saver!!
I'm glad the video helped.
Exactly what I needed. No wasted time explaining other stuff. Thanks.
I like to break things down to easiest form, thanks.
Wanted to say thank you for demonstrating the many ways to wire a 3 way switch! All I could find before your video was a way how to basically wire a 3 way switch. THANK YOU!!!
You absolutely crushed this video. I’ve spent 2 hours working on my 3-way and watched your video once and presto. Thank you very much.
Glad it was helpful
I've never shared a comment on TH-cam until this, I had this same setup with a 4 wire in between the two 3 wire switches and every video until yours exclaimed a basic line-swtitch-switch-load scenario and I could not get it to work correctly until I watched your video and you explains the switch leg with the black-white on the load had to be spliced together and then just ticked away inside the box. Thank you so much for showing a less common method used to wire 3 way switches, it was immensely helpful.
Great explanation of how to wire a 3 way with power and light from the same box. The only thing I see that should also be done is to wrap the white wire that is hot with black tape in the switch boxes.
Very informative and well explained, I personally wasn't aware about the traveler's needed to be in the same location on each switch
Thanks so much. Was looking for a way to run the second switch to a remote box. Very clearly demonstrated.
Thank you so much this was a very well put together video and answered all of my questions i am truly grateful for the knowledge you just shared with me
@@michaelbarnes5269 your welcome
Brilliant! Thanks so much. I don’t know how many videos I’ve watched and it has never been explained so clearly and thoroughly. Thanks, thanks.
Thank you so much. I thought this could be done but every other example did not show both the power coming in and the switch leg in the same box. I thought I really screwed this up - thank you!!
Very thankful for this video... I wouldn't have been able to figure out the wiring without it!
Super great ..
Is what exactly I needed to know...
I have inspection in 2 days and it's almost midnight and I'm watching all these videos and none of them explain this until I came across to your video..
You are a life saver..
Thanks a lot...👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍💯
I’ve been losing my mind for the past few hours trying to figure this out. THANK YOU!!!!
I wrestled w/ my 3way w/ the common and the power in the same box. I never thot of the common as the switch leg . Thank you so much. Up and running.
Thank you, thank you, thank you!!! I was struggling for hours with a three way switch wired exactly like this. I was going to break down and hire someone until I found your video. Great video!
Thanks
Thanks for this video I knew it was possible for switch leg and power in same box I couldn't grasp concept until I watched video
Great video and hard to find explanation on other TH-cam channels. The only other video I've seen is Electrician U "Three Ways 3-Ways Can Be (3way Switch Wiring - ILLEGAL AND LEGAL METHODS". According to Electrician U, this method is legal and is called a "dead end" three way switch because it can't be extended beyond the last three way switch because there is no neutral. It is a handy setup if you want to add a switch after the framing is done and it is more convenient to bypass the light and go directly to the switch. An example is as adding a switch at the other end of a hall or room addition where there is only a single pole switch on one end. But another disadvantage is many new "smart switches" require a neutral and won't work with this setup.
I'm the same as Scott down below, I'm so grateful for your video
I thought I screwed up by not having hot wire on the other side. Your video got my lights on.
Lived with incorrectly wired three way since I purchased this home. This video gave me the correction I needed to make it function correctly. Thank you.
Ur the best out of 100 videos I saw u were the only one the help me
Glad to be of service
Best simple explanation for this set up I’ve ever seen thanks
Wathced 7 other videos that didn't explain it this easy. Thanks
Thank you! This solved our lighting issue! Great video!
Video was super helpful! Only thing is our 3 way switches had the bronze screws diagonal from each other instead of across. We connected our black and red travel wires on the bronze screws diagonally on both switches, and that did the trick!
In my neck of the woods this method is known as the dead end three way, and I've wired a good handful of these over the years, most commonly on remodel projects where I need to convert a single pole setup into a pair of three ways, sometimes with a 4 way included as well. Other times were in very long hallways on new construction in which the power feed and switch leg are located on the same end of the hall to to speak, I can save some wire.
Note that as of 2011 with slight changes over the last 3 code cycles, an available neutral is required to be present in at least one of the switch boxs, because in this day and age, there are a wide variety of electronic switches requiring a neutral for standby power, whereas back in the 1970s when it was a common practice to run the power at light with a two wire switch loop, switches were a simple set of make and break contacts, so having said that the dead end three way method may or may not be code compliant depending on the situation as wel as the AHJ
@@Sparky-ww5re yes, they keep changing codes so always check codes for updates. But working on older houses you may run across this setup.
Great explanation!! Just wired my house this way and was going to undo it to have power in one box and switch in other. You saved me a ton of time.
Well you'd be better off having power in one box and the switch leg in the other since NEC now requires neutrals to be present in all switch boxes
@@aurvaroy6670 YUP !!!
@@aurvaroy6670 only one box on a 3 way circuit needs to have a neutral 404.2(c)
@@timpalmer-logstolumber1999 Right. Didn't know that back then. Still it's nice to have neutral in both boxes just in case you want an add-on smart switch.
Thanks for posting! This works perfectly when adding a new three-way location to a single pole switch.
Not quite. 2020 NEC requires all switch boxes to have neutral present. So instead of a 14/3, you'd need a 14/2/2
@@aurvaroy6670 we still do them with feeds and sw legs in the same box, but my old company did it with splices on both sides but regardless i think the code we are still useing is the 2017 one because the 2020 one hasnt been accepted
@@aurvaroy6670 codes usually run a few years behind and some places adopt faster than others
I have been looking for an explanation of this setup for a while. I have seen 3way switches wired this way in the field and I could not fully understand how you could be left with nothing but one 3 wire in one of the boxes. This video was excellent, thank you for making it.
This is the set up I have thank you for your video helped me out greatly appreciated
This was very informative. Should have said the 2 travel wires go on the brass screws. My 3 way switches had the brass screws diagonal from each other. Not straight across. Really helped me though.
Yes there are other switches that are not like the ones I use. You have to pay attention to the colors. Silver for neutral, brass for travelers, and black for Hot/switch leg.
Hey man. I normally never comment on videos, but I wanted to let you know that your video was very helpful and it worked beautifully. Thanks for making this easy to understand.
Literally ditto. Tim, you are the man! This helped me install a smart three-way in my old South Philly Home. I couldn't figure out how/why it was wired like this. This is the video I was looking for with an excellent explanation.
I have two different three-way switches. The black common is by itself on one of them and on the other it’s not by itself. Not sure what to do in this case.
@@Otho1001 is the second one feeding another switch or outlet? Is it pig tailed or are both wires hooked to switch? With some more info I could be better able to give you an answer
@@timpalmer-logstolumber1999 no nothing like that, I have two switches, but the terminals are configured differently on each of them. The top brass screw is on the left on one of them and on the right on the other. In the video it says to attach to the screw that is alone on one side. On one switch there is a brass screw that is alone and on the other switch there is the black common screw that is alone.
Thank you! That was the video I’ve been looking for!
Your the man Tim thank you for the video
Not sure if you can answer but, I have an older home I'm renovating with
switch loop wiring going into a J box powering basement light fixtures,
and also 3 receptacles on the 1st flr. I want to add 3 way 14-3 wire
going into two 3 way switches. I will remove the current single pole
switch and use the same wiring on the switch onto the 3 way switch so that all fixtures and
receptacles continue to work as before, plus add the 3 way wire running
from switch to switch.
It should work, the single pole switch should have power and switch leg, run 3 wire to second box
love the setup and totorial thanks
My electrician was a no call no-show. Left me to finish my new house. This video saved the day. Great job.
Hi , thanks for sharing! My question is is it possible to connect a 14awg wire to a 12awg wire for lighting ?
It is not recommended but you can as long as the circuit breaker is for the smaller wire. So you would have to use a 15 amp breaker.
Thank you. Great job explaining
This is exactly what I needed. Thank you so much!
Wow great video. This really helped me out.
What a helpful video..
I wud love to see your more videos coming in the future..
I have plans to do videos on different ways to wire 2 and 3 gang boxes.
Best description! Thank you!
Awesome video- Absolutely solved my problems thank🤘🏻
GREAT EXPLANATION
Great explanation. But how do we address the "every box needs a neutral" in the 2nd box?
The second box on a 3 way doesn't need a neutral
@@timpalmer-logstolumber1999 interesting! Thanks for the reply 😀😀
This set up should work for a smart switch? One as the master (line in) and the remote switch ( load). Thanks!
It worked ,,thank you brother
I will answer questions if you have them.
Big help! Thank you, sir!
Glad it helped!
Thank you, Sir!
Thanks , you explained that perfectly
Awesome video Tim! I have to do this and need to add a 4 way in the third box, but, I can't add a 4 way without a neutral can I? It's considered a dead end at the 2nd switch? :(
@@traderman4378 if you have any questions let me know.
@@timpalmer-logstolumber1999 Hey Tim, my setup has the power wire and the power to the light wire in the same switch box. Any way I can use a 4 way to have 3 switch locations in this? 4 wire?
@@traderman4378 yes you can 4 way it. Run a 3 wire to the 2nd box and then the 3rd box. In the first box connect hot wire to switch, the common screw. Then connect black switch leg wire from light to white wire going to box 2. Then white to white going to 3rd box. This is switch leg it connects to switch in box 3. The common screw.
@@timpalmer-logstolumber1999 Thanks Tim, I'll see how it goes
@@timpalmer-logstolumber1999 I don't seem to be getting it. I have a 3 wire coming from a ceiling light to my switch box where I'm putting the 4 way switch. black is the hot, red is the switch leg to light, and the white neutral. You said hook hot to the common, got that. Should I use the black and red from the 3 wire as travelers to 2nd box? Do you mean physically hook the red (switch leg) and white together. If I hook them together I have a 4th terminal with no wire on it? Unless you mean hook them both to the same terminal on the 4 way switch?
This is awesome. Thanks.
Thank you 🙏
I have the same set up Plus a fan light combo in the same box 😅 my brain almost melted
I would be happy to answer any questions you have in the future.
In this situation where you have a second, single pole switch in the first box, do you do two pigtails off the black hot wire, one to the bottom right screw of the three way switch and one pigtail to the gold screw of the single pole switch?
The box that has the white as the line wire with only one 12-3 in it has no neutral in it correct? So that box would be impossible to jumper off of to run a new switch and light out of correct? Cause the LED fixture has a hot and neutral wire to hook up to and without it, it just trips the breaker.
Correct, without a neutral there is no circuit and the light will not work. Besides, this method wouldn't actually work in todays world anyway. Code says there MUST be a neutral in EVERY switch box. No neutral = No pass. You would have to use 4 wire instead of 3 wire for the traveler to do what he did in this video. Even though this works, it simply would no longer pass inspection, but I'm not saying it won't work.
@@godmode3359 this is correct if the new code has been adopted in there area. Adoption usually lags behind a few years. Also DIYers working on there own house and not being inspected could still use it.
Now how do you add an outlet using the wire from the second box?
You can't, there is no neutral in the box.
@@timpalmer-logstolumber1999 thanks much! Can I add a neutral?
@@markied2873 not without rewiring it.
@@timpalmer-logstolumber1999 oh ok...thanks for the info
I followed this video exactly (only difference is I used rocker switches), but my switches face opposite directions when the light is off. Is that expected?
It doesn't matter if they are upside down. Usually on a single pole switch the on is up. If they are three ways it doesn't matter.
Yeah, functionally I know it doesn’t matter, but I’ve got the switch in a 2-gang box with a 2-way switch, so the off positions aren’t matching. Should I just flip the red and black travelers on the right switch?
@@JohnDiBaggioSanto three way switches will vary depending on where you turn it on and off, changing wires won't help.
u can also tie your neutral in to your hot and use your black wire switch leg to the light for the common on your first switch and use the neutral that was tied into your hot for the common black terminal on the other switch
I would like to see that method, could you send me a diagram at 13husky18@gmail.com. Thanks
Did not work when using a 3 way Lutron dimmer, The black traveler and the black hot had to be swapped on the switch. Why? Dunno.
Some lutron dimmers can be single pole or 3way, look for wiring diagram on package
We put in a dimmer switch and followed your instructions but the black power has to be across from the red traveler.
Depending on the switch, some have the screws in different locations. The swl/hot is a different color screw or marked common. Sorry for not mentioning that.
Thank you sir. You helped me on my remodel
Are the light switches with the toggle a special kind for a 3way light switch connection?
Yes, you have to use 3 way switch, these are the ones that don't have on/off on them. They have screws for three wires.
Beautiful bro I love it
How would it work with two dimmable switches?
you can only use one dimmable switch.
Is it possible to add a wire to control another light to the box that has only the switch leg wire? Thanks
Yes, if there is a neutral wire for that light. wirenut the switch leg wires together and then wire the neural wires together.
Great video! How do I install an outlet from a 3 way switch? I need an outlet to power a tv and the three way is the closest to it. Can it be done? thank you!!
If the switch box has power it can be used to power an outlet. Use a pop in box, run a wire from pop in box to switch box. Tie into power and neutral in switch box.
can you run an outlet off of the second leg? Or since it has no neutral wire is it not possible?
An outlet would need a neutral
Nice job buddy!! Thanks!!
Thanks Bubba!
Will this work for Dimmer? Let clarify I tried to do this with the dimmer and it fried the dimmer switch
It should work with a dimmer. There are several things that may affect it. A couple of things that may affect it are you using only one dimmer or It may be the type of light bulbs being used. Not all light bulbs work with dimmers.
Thank you so much
very instructive Bro...
my only problem is that you naming Cable a Wire..
It's a cable that have 2 or 3 wires...14/2 or 12/3 and so on..
I know, I learned to call it wire a long time ago, it's hard to change.
thank you for your video I used it to install 2 3 way switches in my house. However I can't figure out why the both lights on each individual 3 way switch flicker only when they come on. It does it for a second then is fine. It's a Led/incandescent switch with a incandescent bulb on it. I have the same light bulb and switch on the same circuit in another room and no flicker. I checked all the connections to rule out a loose connection and didn't see anything loose. Any ideas?
It could be in the switch or the light fixture
@@timpalmer-logstolumber1999 thank you I figured it out, can't have two dimmers in a 3 way switch
Great video explanation!
THANK YOU!!!!!!!
Does the switch that has the white wire alone is it hot
At 4:20 it says it is used as the switch leg. which means it only gets power when the switches are aligned correctly to turn on the light.
Does it actually matter which screw your travelers are on as long as they're on the traveler screws and not the common? So you made your red on the side with the screw by itself, but could the one switch have it like that but the other switch the red be on the screw side that the common was on. Or would it work the same as long as travelers are on traveler screws but not the common screw
It does not matter which side they are on. I teach my students to be consistent, they are less likely to get it wrong.
If you swap the location of the travelers the switches will be in opposite orientation when the light is on.
@@timpalmer-logstolumber1999 Hi Tim, Great video on this. I have found that if you CROSS the traveler locations of 2 alike 3-way switches, the two 3-ways will still do the job as intended BUT when a 4-way switch is used between the two 3-ways to get THREE switching locations for a light it won't work unless you go back and UN-cross the 2 travelers from the 3-ways so they go to identical traveler terminals as you noted here.
@@bobrub working with high school kids I try to get them to do it the same way each time, they will make less mistakes. Then later I cover other ways because not all switches are the same. Especially from older houses.
just what I needed for my project except I will have four way switch in the middle.
Hi Tim. Great video. This is how my house was wired. Question...is there a way to add an additional light to the system between the 2 switches or would it have to be off the existing light? Thanks!
you could run a wire off an existing light or you could drop a wire into the switch box with the power and switch leg in it.
Hello Tim. A great and easy way to add another light to the circuit is by "tapping" into the black/white/ground wires from your existing light. I do this often when I install recess lights around my house.. You can do this several ways, but the most convenient way I like is by using the wago lever nuts which allows you to grab the wires together.
Does the switch that has the white wire alone is hot ?
Only one of the two boxes will be hot, the other will be the switch leg
Man, thank you!
Thanks you so much
Man, that Jump at 8:13 confused the hell out of me. I have no idea what went where after that.
He seems to be figuring it out as he goes .
So is the yellow wire from panel box to switch box 2 wire?
yes
The wire could be yellow or white. It is called a homerun when it leaves the panel to the first item on the circuit. For light, recepts, disposal, dishwasher etc. it is a 2 wire (120volts). A 3 wire if it is for a dryer, stove, A/C etc. (220-240 volts)
Thanks
Why would a yellow wire be connected to the ground on a receptacle
Is it being used as a ground? What is other end hooked to?
Losing my mind on the wire switch.
One yellow is coming from the power.
The second yellow from the switch?
😱😅
The second yellow comes from the light
problem with no neutral in remote switch, problem could be solved using a xx/4 wire Black, White, Red, Blue , then red and blue used as travelers, Black as the common, to be connected to black-switch, the white would be capped. Also no repurposing the White wire to a hot with black tape.
When working on older houses you going to run into this setup, got to know how it works.
Thank you
👍
You da man !
Is this the California three-way?
No, it is weird though... it's a traveling bus 3-way that isn't traveling the bus... like it's a typical or standard 3-way except that he put the load on the first switch instead of the second. Not how most guys wire them but it is valid, just weird. It's generally considered best wiring practice to use the same wiring method as those around you so that it's kinda pseudo standardized and makes things easier for everyone.
Here's a link to a video that shows how most guys wire a traveling bus 3-way:
th-cam.com/video/cOFKnAGOPg4/w-d-xo.html
What kind of wire is this?
12-2 for power and switch leg, 12-3 for the traveler. It's romex
The only wires that matter are the switch leg has to be under a black screw on one switch while the other black screw on the other switch holds the power wire. The travelers makes no difference to which screw they are under be it one side or the other.
Yes and No!! You forgot to mention the other end of the switch leg! That is the key to “switching on and off”. The other end of the switch leg MUST be joined with the black wire going directly ‘to the light’ -then the circuit is complete and turning on/off from both switches will work!
@@susanhardy8287 My bad I guess I took for granted people knew they had to hook the light up for it to work...
This is not code under the NEC 2020. You need a neutral wire in at least one of the switch boxes.
The neutral wire is in the first switch where the power and switch leg are
I thought a neutral wire was required in both switch boxes?
Only problem first box has to many wires look up sparky channel he explains this
There are different size boxes, make sure you get the deeper box that will work