Brilliant as always. It’s worth mentioning that in some circumstances some three-way lighting set-ups may be incompatible with AFCI/GFCI receptacle on a circuit which would trip given the borrowed neutral- either you would have to change the layout of the 3-way wiring or wire it into a one way switch. It’s worth while showing that bill because many people will not be aware of this issue and if people are not aware it can create faults and problems. I say this because many people will want to protect branch circuits with an AFCI/GFCI receptacle and depending which feeds power to a set of lights and borrowed neutrals can be problematic they will need to re-wire the three way to make it fully compatible with a three way switch.
just a suggestion bill---- might want to show a multimeter on continuity mode showing how the common connects to each traveler terminal on the switch and how each thraveler teminal is isolated from each other. i've had a hard time getting people to understand but once they visualize it they get it.
I’m glad you noticed two of the wago nut levers on the grounds had lifted up, and closed them back down. For this very reason, I like to wrap the wago lever nuts with electrical tape (which of course reduces their convenience) for added security.
My preferred method for 3 way switches. My only difference is I use the red and white (marked as hot) wires for my travelers. It helps to keep them from being mixed up with the neutral.
I agree that omitting/repurposing the neutral seems like one of those situations where “just because you CAN doesn’t mean you SHOULD.” Buuuuut, it’s a lot more elegant than a lot of the “shortcuts” I’ve discovered in my old house.
What's the purpose of the neutral in the switchbox? Unless you have a dimmer that requires a neutral? You can also send a 12-3 or 14-3 from each switch box up to the light box and tie your travelers together and feed either switch hot.
Just fixed a 3-way switch in my house that has been a problem for 10 years. The wiring was different than this and the regular 3-way video that you had but thanks to how well you explained it in the video I was able to work the logic out. Absolutely fantastic.
I am wiring my ceiling up with outlets, to plug LED lights in to. With two 3-way switches as you've shown. Would this work with wiring multiple outlets rather than the one light receptacle you've shown? I am just trying to rough in the wiring for my electrician to do final hookup. I think it will work, but always appreciate input! Thank you for the great videos
This was a common method of 3way/4way system wiring in old houses. So this is great for troubleshooting. If I'm installing new 3way/4way wiring I will stick with the method of feeding line power to the 1st switch and load from the 2nd w/ travellers between. I like the way Bill sketches the wiring out, that was the best way for me to learn and wire things correctly as an apprentice.
I realize this is an old video but i’m just now getting into electrical work. I know that your neutrals always have to go to the light, but out of curiosity what purpose does the lone white wire serve in the first switch box? it just has a “wire nut” or whatever you’re using for the pigtails.
Hey Sparky! I know this video is over a year old now but its still very helpful. You have a knack for teaching and me understanding it. For the longest time, 3 and 4 way switching confuzzled me. Its funny to me now because I'm used to doing 3-way switching with DC circuits. For some reason, 120v circuits would just break my brain. It wasn't until after understanding what is going on within the walls that helped me understand it better. Thank you for this and your other great videos!
I've normally heard it back in black, but it doesn't matter, so long as you know. Is there any reason you choose the white (re-identified, of course) as the return?
I wanted to keep the red and black for the travelers. Having just one neutral in one of the 3-way switches wasn't allowable in 2011. I think they decided it was too harsh and eased up some, including 2020 where they are now allowing this in all habitable rooms. You can see it at 10:47 where it says "all habitable rooms or occupiable spaces". That phrase is new for 2020. I would rather provide the neutrals but I wanted to be able to demonstrate 404.2 (C). Tomorrow's video will show what I think is a super cool way to wire this 3-way switch set-up with power from the light. And it will provide neutrals to both switch boxes. I'm noticing that the guys who make videos and just say the code is such and such are often wrong or perhaps they were correct for a couple of code cycles back. I would rather go to the actual current code and discuss that even if it does take longer.
That's an interesting thought. I was working from the CEC before 2014, when I moved, so I was unfamiliar with having to have ALL switches with the neutral (grounded conductor.)
@@IceBergGeo Yes, that was a huge change here in the USA in 2011. Lots of complaints and grumbling. Now the NEC has backed off a little with some exceptions. But it seems that not that many people are familiar with the exceptions. Cheers from San Diego!
I have seen this wired a few different ways and I have a question. Is there code for what color wire powers the light on this type of setup? I have seen Bill use red here and others I have seen black. Is it personal preference? Thanks
Question. Let’s second I needed at neutral wire in the second (right side) box. Could I install a 12/2/2 instead of a 12/2? And use the all white for the neutral and the white with red stripe as a traveler? Of course I would mark it as a hot.
there is never a bad reason to use it - just wrap the grounding conductor coming out of the light fixture around it, before you connect it to the grounding conductor in the box.
I am confused about your diagram, where the neutral wire from 12/2 cable is floating (or open) when you capped it with Wago at the first switch. I am trying to follow the flow of the current and I can't seem to follow it using your diagram.
He used 12/3 from the light to the first switch, not 12/2. In that 12/3, black is extension of the hot wire in the light box and red is the leg wire that will power the light. At the first switch, you have two choices when wiring the common and travelers. You can connect the black wire from that 12/3 directly to the common of the first switch then join the red wire to any wire going to the next switch, or you join the black wire with one of the wires going to the next switch then connect the red wire directly to the common, which is what Sparky did. Either way, the other end of that wire that is jointed at the first switch should go to the common of the second switch. After that, it’s really simple. Just connect the remaining wires to the remaining terminals of both switches and your ready to install your light.
"Line" hot wire comes in from the top, goes through switches, comes back to the light. Light now has hot power. Neutral takes the current from the light and back through the line wire at the top. The capped neutral is in the other box just in case.
Hi Sparky. Nobody can answer my question. Hopefully you will or can.. I am trying to hookup a single pole switch, to operate an outside light, from my end three way switch. Already have wire coming from light to the double box to be hooked up. just need to bring power from three way to outside single pole switch to operate. Hope I gave you enough info. Thank you, Rick Smith
Bring power from the 1st 3-way switch box. That box will have non-switched power. Don't bring the power from the 2nd 3-way switch box as that power will be influenced by the 3-way switching.
Great vid. Next time mention why you used big boxes for the switches (answer: cuz of me of course). Also, this type of circuit can be hard to troubleshoot. Lol
Question, i have the same settings, and on the 2nd switch, I want to replace it with a combo switch + outlet, and the switch remains 3-way, but I need constant power to the outlet. do I need to rewire between the 2 switches with a 12-4 cable?
Do they even make a 3-way switch/outlet combo? If you can expand it to a 2-gang box, it might just be better to use a regular 3 way switch and a standard duplex outlet.
@Sparky Channel. Thanks for another educational video. I've been in homes where the "electrician" didn't remark wires they repurposed to be line wires. Head scratcher until I figured them out. Now I remark them. I like that you listened to your viewers and added diagrams to help those of us who like to see wiring diagrams. Patiently waiting to see your next videos. Hope you and your family stay safe and well.
Hi! Great to hear from you! Yes, marking the re-purposed wires wasn't done very often in the old days or perhaps the marks just wear off over time. I have another video tomorrow which shows similar wiring but no re-purposing necessary.
Hi bill from sparky Channel Fantastic video and example I personally appreciate the code you showed here. You know I like learning the code. Your show gets better every day. Thanks again
Isn't that an amazing code? Having just one neutral in one of the 3-way switches wasn't allowable in 2011. I think they decided it was too harsh and eased up some, including 2020 where they are now allowing this in all habitable rooms. You can see it at 10:47 where it says "all habitable rooms or occupiable spaces". That phrase is new for 2020. I would rather provide the neutrals but I wanted to be able to demonstrate 404.2 (C). Tomorrow's video will show what I think is a super cool way to wire this 3-way switch set-up with power from the light. And it will provide neutrals to both switch boxes. I'm noticing that the guys who make videos and just say the code is such and such are often wrong or perhaps they were correct for a couple of code cycles back. I would rather go to the actual current code and discuss that. Thanks Jeff!
So switch looping is no longer allowed? ex. In a bedroom with feed to ceiling light or switched receptacle you can no longer just pull a 2 wire to the switch? It now has to be a 3 wire and the neutral would be capped off?
because the very first cable is the power which is coming from the light junction itself, the red cable in the first light junction is actually the HOT. it's complicated for me too but essentially he is doing it all backwards so the wiring is backwards as well. the 3 way switches do not appear to need neutral thats why he has provided the neutral to the first 3 way switch but actually capped it off meaning none of the switches are even using neutral. the only function those 2 switches are doing is telling the light if it is ON or OFF, if we were over simplifying it's concept. anyways look at the very first power cable, that is the source of the neutral
"Line" hot wire comes in from the top, goes through switches, comes back to the light. Light now has hot power. Neutral goes from "hot" light back through the line wire at the top. The capped neutral is in the other box just in case.
Simple. Just run a 3 wire (or 4 wire if you want a neutral in both boxes) to the new location. Choose one of the new wires in the new cable you ran to be the extension of your existing hot or leg. Label it so you don’t forget. Then use the next to wires on both ends of the new cable as travelers. I like to use the black wire from the new cable and join it with either the black hot wire or leg wire. The black wire at the new location and the remaining black wire at the old location will be your commons. Then reidentify the white wire in that new cable as a traveler wire. So the whites and red of the new cable will be your travelers.
Is wrapping the switches (and receptacles and what have you) with electrician’s tape part of code? Or just a “best practice” you’ve adopted? I’m all for it (and have started to do it in my renovations/repairs) but I don’t believe I’ve seen it done before I found your channel.
Definitely not a code requirement, perhaps not even a "best practice". Most electricians don't do it, but I suspect Bill is showing it this way to "dumb it down", or rather to make it safer for a DIY'er, who will follow the instructions in this video. Another good reason to tape around terminals is to avoid the contact of the bare ground wire with one of the terminals as you are stuffing the device back into the box (which an electrician will have a plan for avoiding by planning how the bare grounds are folded into the box). Also, the tape tends to slip off the device. What I use instead, when I need to cover the terminals, are cut-up squares of Scotch 2228 thick "rubber" tape - much neater and stays on much better.
Not code just preference commercial electrician I always tape up everything as far as devices but have worked with people usually from a different local that say “it just wastes time”😂I think he’s got a video supposedly ideal makes a rubber band type thing now u can use too circumvent using tape
Brilliant as always. It’s worth mentioning that in some circumstances some three-way lighting set-ups may be incompatible with AFCI/GFCI receptacle on a circuit which would trip given the borrowed neutral- either you would have to change the layout of the 3-way wiring or wire it into a one way switch.
It’s worth while showing that bill because many people will not be aware of this issue and if people are not aware it can create faults and problems. I say this because many people will want to protect branch circuits with an AFCI/GFCI receptacle and depending which feeds power to a set of lights and borrowed neutrals can be problematic they will need to re-wire the three way to make it fully compatible with a three way switch.
Thanks Math Man, excellent point.
In what situation would it not be afci compatible? As long as the neutral and hot are the same circuit it should be fine right?
What if you have 12-2 coming into the first box from the light?
just a suggestion bill---- might want to show a multimeter on continuity mode showing how the common connects to each traveler terminal on the switch and how each thraveler teminal is isolated from each other. i've had a hard time getting people to understand but once they visualize it they get it.
Excellent idea, thanks!
Thank you, sir! I learned something new with the neutral wires by watching this.
My pleasure, thanks!
I’m glad you noticed two of the wago nut levers on the grounds had lifted up, and closed them back down. For this very reason, I like to wrap the wago lever nuts with electrical tape (which of course reduces their convenience) for added security.
It's not a problem if the Wago's lift up a little. It gives the same connection. You have to lift the lever up all the way to disconnect.
Where you been Bill? Glad to see you back😊 Great tutorial!!!
I've been doing paper work. I'm glad to be back! Thanks!
@@SparkyChannel nobody likes paperwork.
@@IceBergGeo I had a big stack of it! LOL!
@@SparkyChannel boo! I hope that it is all gone now.
everytime i see power to light its knob and tube or cloth/asbestos type wire
Yes, that is a great example of when you would see it.
My preferred method for 3 way switches. My only difference is I use the red and white (marked as hot) wires for my travelers. It helps to keep them from being mixed up with the neutral.
wait, what; why send the power all the way to the end? there's no neutral there anyway, so just send the red switched leg over to the "dead" end.
you're just inviting the kitchen remodelers/handyman to abuse the ground for neutral when they put in a "smart" switch...
also, if we're mentioning "grounded conductor" (aka neutral), use the magnificently epic "luminaire" for light.
@@wim0104 I like your comment as a best practice - if you bring a "full-time" hot into a box you should bring a neutral with it.
I agree that omitting/repurposing the neutral seems like one of those situations where “just because you CAN doesn’t mean you SHOULD.” Buuuuut, it’s a lot more elegant than a lot of the “shortcuts” I’ve discovered in my old house.
I was trying to demonstrate 404.2 (C).
What's the purpose of the neutral in the switchbox? Unless you have a dimmer that requires a neutral? You can also send a 12-3 or 14-3 from each switch box up to the light box and tie your travelers together and feed either switch hot.
Just fixed a 3-way switch in my house that has been a problem for 10 years. The wiring was different than this and the regular 3-way video that you had but thanks to how well you explained it in the video I was able to work the logic out. Absolutely fantastic.
Great job!
Is this wiring applicable with modern smart dimmer switches?
I am wiring my ceiling up with outlets, to plug LED lights in to. With two 3-way switches as you've shown. Would this work with wiring multiple outlets rather than the one light receptacle you've shown? I am just trying to rough in the wiring for my electrician to do final hookup. I think it will work, but always appreciate input! Thank you for the great videos
This was a common method of 3way/4way system wiring in old houses. So this is great for troubleshooting. If I'm installing new 3way/4way wiring I will stick with the method of feeding line power to the 1st switch and load from the 2nd w/ travellers between. I like the way Bill sketches the wiring out, that was the best way for me to learn and wire things correctly as an apprentice.
Thanks! More 3-way examples to come. For this one I wanted to demonstrate 404.2 (C).
Best teacher on TH-cam hands down when it comes to electrical. Always detailed and thorough.
Thanks!
Interesting mate, why do you call it a 3 way ?
We would call this a 2 way switch because it can be switched from 2 switches.
Great video 👌🏼
It's an American thing. Basically because there are 3 terminals we call it a 3-way.
How would you and a plug to the second box where the first switch is?
Great video as usually! Can we just use a two wire from the light to the first switch?
It'll work, but it's against code because there won't be a neutral in the switch box.
They manufacture a 12-2-2 romex, but it is hard to find exept at maybe a large supply house.
Yes, that can definitely be useful when you would like to run 2 circuits with one cable and have each circuit with it's own neutral.
I realize this is an old video but i’m just now getting into electrical work. I know that your neutrals always have to go to the light, but out of curiosity what purpose does the lone white wire serve in the first switch box? it just has a “wire nut” or whatever you’re using for the pigtails.
Currently there is no purpose. But if you wanted to add or change to something like a smart switch, you would need neutral. Future proof it a bit.
thank you !
Hey Sparky! I know this video is over a year old now but its still very helpful. You have a knack for teaching and me understanding it. For the longest time, 3 and 4 way switching confuzzled me. Its funny to me now because I'm used to doing 3-way switching with DC circuits. For some reason, 120v circuits would just break my brain. It wasn't until after understanding what is going on within the walls that helped me understand it better. Thank you for this and your other great videos!
No problem, thanks!
I've normally heard it back in black, but it doesn't matter, so long as you know. Is there any reason you choose the white (re-identified, of course) as the return?
I wanted to keep the red and black for the travelers. Having just one neutral in one of the 3-way switches wasn't allowable in 2011. I think they decided it was too harsh and eased up some, including 2020 where they are now allowing this in all habitable rooms. You can see it at 10:47 where it says "all habitable rooms or occupiable spaces". That phrase is new for 2020. I would rather provide the neutrals but I wanted to be able to demonstrate 404.2 (C). Tomorrow's video will show what I think is a super cool way to wire this 3-way switch set-up with power from the light. And it will provide neutrals to both switch boxes. I'm noticing that the guys who make videos and just say the code is such and such are often wrong or perhaps they were correct for a couple of code cycles back. I would rather go to the actual current code and discuss that even if it does take longer.
That's an interesting thought. I was working from the CEC before 2014, when I moved, so I was unfamiliar with having to have ALL switches with the neutral (grounded conductor.)
@@IceBergGeo Yes, that was a huge change here in the USA in 2011. Lots of complaints and grumbling. Now the NEC has backed off a little with some exceptions. But it seems that not that many people are familiar with the exceptions. Cheers from San Diego!
How do you wire a smart light switch in a power to light circuit?
I have seen this wired a few different ways and I have a question. Is there code for what color wire powers the light on this type of setup? I have seen Bill use red here and others I have seen black. Is it personal preference? Thanks
Red and black are common colors for hot wires and both are fine.
Question. Let’s second I needed at neutral wire in the second (right side) box. Could I install a 12/2/2 instead of a 12/2? And use the all white for the neutral and the white with red stripe as a traveler? Of course I would mark it as a hot.
Ha ha 15:15. I should’ve waited to watch the entire video. But good to know that it can be done like that.
When do you need to use the grounding screw on the lighting crossbar?
there is never a bad reason to use it - just wrap the grounding conductor coming out of the light fixture around it, before you connect it to the grounding conductor in the box.
California 3-way?
This set-up is by the book. See 2020 NEC 404.2 (C). But this code has changed quite a bit from 2011. And it changed for 2020 as well.
Thanks man I was stuck. You explained it extremely well. Appreciate you
Happy to help!
I'm a issue with a 3way
3way issue with the power coming from the light fixture
I am confused about your diagram, where the neutral wire from 12/2 cable is floating (or open) when you capped it with Wago at the first switch. I am trying to follow the flow of the current and I can't seem to follow it using your diagram.
He used 12/3 from the light to the first switch, not 12/2. In that 12/3, black is extension of the hot wire in the light box and red is the leg wire that will power the light. At the first switch, you have two choices when wiring the common and travelers. You can connect the black wire from that 12/3 directly to the common of the first switch then join the red wire to any wire going to the next switch, or you join the black wire with one of the wires going to the next switch then connect the red wire directly to the common, which is what Sparky did. Either way, the other end of that wire that is jointed at the first switch should go to the common of the second switch. After that, it’s really simple. Just connect the remaining wires to the remaining terminals of both switches and your ready to install your light.
"Line" hot wire comes in from the top, goes through switches, comes back to the light. Light now has hot power. Neutral takes the current from the light and back through the line wire at the top. The capped neutral is in the other box just in case.
Hi Sparky. Nobody can answer my question. Hopefully you will or can.. I am trying to hookup a single pole switch, to operate an outside light, from my end three way switch. Already have wire coming from light to the double box to be hooked up. just need to bring power from three way to outside single pole switch to operate. Hope I gave you enough info. Thank you, Rick Smith
Bring power from the 1st 3-way switch box. That box will have non-switched power. Don't bring the power from the 2nd 3-way switch box as that power will be influenced by the 3-way switching.
@@SparkyChannel Thank you. Keep up the videos
Great vid. Next time mention why you used big boxes for the switches (answer: cuz of me of course). Also, this type of circuit can be hard to troubleshoot. Lol
Hi Dave! Yes, the 2 gang box with a one gang mud ring is a great way to have plenty of room in the box. Yes, I give you credit. Thanks!
@@SparkyChannel good man. credit accepted. woohoo. great man you are. i have alot of respect you baby!!!!!!!!!
@@MrTooTechnical You da man Dave! :)
Question, i have the same settings, and on the 2nd switch, I want to replace it with a combo switch + outlet, and the switch remains 3-way, but I need constant power to the outlet. do I need to rewire between the 2 switches with a 12-4 cable?
Do they even make a 3-way switch/outlet combo? If you can expand it to a 2-gang box, it might just be better to use a regular 3 way switch and a standard duplex outlet.
@@mae2759 Yeah, I want to do this too, but I have never seen anyone demonstrate how its done.
Thanks for the video
My pleasure Charles!
I just experienced this same set-up. If I hadn't watched this video, I still be scratching my head
Thanks Sparky Channrl.
Welcome Toby!
Good demo as usual Bill ...
Thanks Eddy!
@Sparky Channel. Thanks for another educational video. I've been in homes where the "electrician" didn't remark wires they repurposed to be line wires. Head scratcher until I figured them out. Now I remark them. I like that you listened to your viewers and added diagrams to help those of us who like to see wiring diagrams. Patiently waiting to see your next videos.
Hope you and your family stay safe and well.
Hi! Great to hear from you! Yes, marking the re-purposed wires wasn't done very often in the old days or perhaps the marks just wear off over time. I have another video tomorrow which shows similar wiring but no re-purposing necessary.
Hi bill from sparky Channel
Fantastic video and example
I personally appreciate the code you showed here.
You know I like learning the code.
Your show gets better every day.
Thanks again
Isn't that an amazing code? Having just one neutral in one of the 3-way switches wasn't allowable in 2011. I think they decided it was too harsh and eased up some, including 2020 where they are now allowing this in all habitable rooms. You can see it at 10:47 where it says "all habitable rooms or occupiable spaces". That phrase is new for 2020. I would rather provide the neutrals but I wanted to be able to demonstrate 404.2 (C). Tomorrow's video will show what I think is a super cool way to wire this 3-way switch set-up with power from the light. And it will provide neutrals to both switch boxes. I'm noticing that the guys who make videos and just say the code is such and such are often wrong or perhaps they were correct for a couple of code cycles back. I would rather go to the actual current code and discuss that. Thanks Jeff!
why do you use 12/2 for all these demo's?
@@HoosierRallyMaster just thinking of workability, why not for demonstration purposes use 14/2 for ease of use
@@stevenhall9020 I think he is worried that someone will only watch ten seconds of a video and install 14 gauge on a 20 amp circuit.
12/2 is superior to 14/2 even if it does exceed code. I like to protect the house in case someone adds to a lighting circuit later on.
Another reason 12 AWG is superior to 14 AWG even though #14 would work is voltage drop over long distances.
@@SparkyChannel I like this attitude. As a craftsman, always do your work in such a way that it will not have to be redone!
Great and very understandable. And great explaining "always set up same each time." Makes easier to remember
Glad it was helpful, thanks!
Thank you for explanation. Although I don’t understand the need of the neutral in one of the boxes if we don’t even use it... what is it for then?
Future proof in case you use a smart switch or something that requires a neutral.
So switch looping is no longer allowed? ex. In a bedroom with feed to ceiling light or switched receptacle you can no longer just pull a 2 wire to the switch? It now has to be a 3 wire and the neutral would be capped off?
Yes but there are exceptions such as 404.2 (C) that I demonstrated in the video.
Also, I wanted to add that I have more 3-way example videos coming! Thanks!
Very detailed video.
Thank you.
Do you have any videos how to install ceiling light from a wall switch that controls an outlet?
If it controls the outlet you should be able to run it directly from the outlet to the light
Well done Sparky. You really explain it very well.
Thanks so much Gary!
I dont understand how this works if you go neutral to light then capped your neutral on your first box how does it complete the circuit?
because the very first cable is the power which is coming from the light junction itself, the red cable in the first light junction is actually the HOT. it's complicated for me too but essentially he is doing it all backwards so the wiring is backwards as well. the 3 way switches do not appear to need neutral thats why he has provided the neutral to the first 3 way switch but actually capped it off meaning none of the switches are even using neutral. the only function those 2 switches are doing is telling the light if it is ON or OFF, if we were over simplifying it's concept. anyways look at the very first power cable, that is the source of the neutral
"Line" hot wire comes in from the top, goes through switches, comes back to the light. Light now has hot power. Neutral goes from "hot" light back through the line wire at the top. The capped neutral is in the other box just in case.
@@eksineyes only thing that needs a return path is the light
How to wire a 3way switch with a switch leg and power from the same box
Simple. Just run a 3 wire (or 4 wire if you want a neutral in both boxes) to the new location. Choose one of the new wires in the new cable you ran to be the extension of your existing hot or leg. Label it so you don’t forget. Then use the next to wires on both ends of the new cable as travelers.
I like to use the black wire from the new cable and join it with either the black hot wire or leg wire. The black wire at the new location and the remaining black wire at the old location will be your commons. Then reidentify the white wire in that new cable as a traveler wire. So the whites and red of the new cable will be your travelers.
Very good, Sir.
Thanks 👍🙏🏼
Is wrapping the switches (and receptacles and what have you) with electrician’s tape part of code? Or just a “best practice” you’ve adopted? I’m all for it (and have started to do it in my renovations/repairs) but I don’t believe I’ve seen it done before I found your channel.
Definitely not a code requirement, perhaps not even a "best practice". Most electricians don't do it, but I suspect Bill is showing it this way to "dumb it down", or rather to make it safer for a DIY'er, who will follow the instructions in this video. Another good reason to tape around terminals is to avoid the contact of the bare ground wire with one of the terminals as you are stuffing the device back into the box (which an electrician will have a plan for avoiding by planning how the bare grounds are folded into the box).
Also, the tape tends to slip off the device. What I use instead, when I need to cover the terminals, are cut-up squares of Scotch 2228 thick "rubber" tape - much neater and stays on much better.
No, it's not code but I think it's a good idea.
@@SparkyChannel agreed. My house has small metal boxes for the most part, and putting in a GFCI gets COZY.
Not code just preference commercial electrician I always tape up everything as far as devices but have worked with people usually from a different local that say “it just wastes time”😂I think he’s got a video supposedly ideal makes a rubber band type thing now u can use too circumvent using tape
@@christianlemus6483 I saw that one. If someone else was footing the bill, I would absolutely be using those!
Amazing thank you so much!
My pleasure!
Ahhh, the old switch loop.
Yep.
👍🏼🍻🍺👍🏼
Thanks and have a great weekend!