I have to say you saved my sanity with this video! I was doing a flip and since I don't do ALOT of electrical especially with 3ways controlling an outlet I've been stuck. Finally found your video and BAM I'm on track. Thank you for the detailed work!!
Interesting and informative I wish you had a closer view of the Boxes being wired for mental understanding by vision seeing what you do as well as hearing what you say. This is exactly what I was wanting to comprehend for up coming purposes.
Thanks for the great video. Very helpful. Replaced 2 wall outlets that were controlled by 2 switches. Outlets were hot on top and were on/off on the bottom. Did everything right except disconnecting top part of outlet from bottom part of outlet. Spent many frustrating hours of troubleshooting and never did figure it out. I watched the video and problem solved. Thanks.
I've been looking for several months for a wiring video to explain how to run from existing power, to an outdoor light + outdoor receptacle, with two-way switches. Still haven't found exactly that setup but I'm hopeful!
Run a 12-2 from existing power to the switch box. From the switch box run a 12-3 to the second switch box. From second switch box run switch leg to the light. From first switch box run a 12-2 to the outlet. Make sure you use large single gang for first switch so all the wires fit. Ask question if you need more help.
I used this exact method on a 15A workshop lighting circuit with a slight modification to also control the 2nd half of the receptacles. 14/2 from panel/breaker to the 3-way switch box, then 14/3 to the 2nd switch box 3-way switch (as the traveler). That 2nd switch box also had a simple SPST switch feed by the 3-way switch (its load side black). The 3-way controls the entire circuit and first half of all receptacles directly. The extra SPST feed from the load side of the 3-way switch (black), then controls the second half of the receptacles (red). The lighting outlets were then feed with 14/3 with the receptacles spilt (black to one outlet, red to the other). This allows the entire circuit to be controlled via the 3-way and the SPST controls the 2nd half of the receptacles only. The main lights and rim/task lights... all can be turned on/off via the 3-way and the rim/task lights powered on/off on top of the main lights. As per code... all grounds connected together and all neutrals connected together.
The reason he didn't bring the hot wire to switch one first is because all power would of been controlled by the switches. He wanted only 1/2 of the plug switched and the other half hot all the time. This is just one example of how to wire this configuration.
Thanks for the sub! If the power wire was in the far left box there would not be enough wires to get the hot and switch leg to the other switch box - in the three wire, the black and red are travelers, that leaves only the neutral white wire. You would have to run a second wire for the hot to the receptacle.
great video Tim. exacly what i want to do in my new 4 season room. I'm getting a little confused on switch box #2 where the main power comes to. Do you have a diagram of #2 switch box? thanks
Very helpful video. One question maybe you can help with. My gfci in garage is 20 amp and I just replaced it. I have a 15 amp outlet that needs to be changed outside that ties to the GFCI 20 amp. Is it ok to replace the 15 amp outside with 20amp outlet? Sometimes my 15 amp is overtaking and trips the Gfci. Thanks
it depends on the size of wire. if you have a 14-2 wire it needs to have a 15 amp breaker, even if it ties into a 12-2, 20 amp wire. You have to breaker at the smaller amp. The smaller wire cannot take the heavier load and could start a fire.
What if you wanted the first receptacle full hot and the second half hot? I have 8 outlets in my living room, all half hot. I want the outlet where our computer is to be hot at all times but I want the rest to be half hot.
I have 3 way switch controls 3 split receptacles. They seems to warm up/overheat after charging phone for a 10mins. How can this be fixed? or can I convert them to permanent hot?
It could be the phone charger causing the problem. Yes you could make them hot all the time. Go into switch box and wirenut hot to switchleg bypassing the switch.
This is exactly how my house is wired by a licensed electrician for my homebuilder. I was trying to figure out why there was a hot neutral on one switch with only a 3 wire, and a neutral and red wire spliced together on the other switch, as I was going to install a smart switch and was very confused by this set up. Thanks for explaining it. I don't see how else it could be wired if there is only the one set of wires going to the first switch! You just have to label that neutral as a HOT (Line/Load/Traveler etc) with tape, which my homebuilder did not do.
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Perfect! The only video I found that explains a 3 way switched outlet!
Go to SPARKY CHANNEL he explains it much better
Excelent presentation. I assimilate and understand the whole explanation. Thanks, mr. Tim.
I have to say you saved my sanity with this video! I was doing a flip and since I don't do ALOT of electrical especially with 3ways controlling an outlet I've been stuck. Finally found your video and BAM I'm on track. Thank you for the detailed work!!
Interesting and informative I wish you had a closer view of the Boxes being wired for mental understanding by vision seeing what you do as well as hearing what you say. This is exactly what I was wanting to comprehend for up coming purposes.
Thanks for the great video. Very helpful. Replaced 2 wall outlets that were controlled by 2 switches. Outlets were hot on top and were on/off on the bottom. Did everything right except disconnecting top part of outlet from bottom part of outlet. Spent many frustrating hours of troubleshooting and never did figure it out. I watched the video and problem solved. Thanks.
Thanks so much, this was exactly the demo I needed.
very helpful - thanks a bunch - really saved me time
I've been looking for several months for a wiring video to explain how to run from existing power, to an outdoor light + outdoor receptacle, with two-way switches. Still haven't found exactly that setup but I'm hopeful!
Run a 12-2 from existing power to the switch box. From the switch box run a 12-3 to the second switch box. From second switch box run switch leg to the light. From first switch box run a 12-2 to the outlet. Make sure you use large single gang for first switch so all the wires fit. Ask question if you need more help.
Great job - good explanations!
Nice video but I think It was lots of information to remember. But I got it
Thanks
Good information
Thanks
Well put sir 👏
Is there a way to wire this with neutrals in both switch boxes? I want to be able to use smart switches.
nice idea if you want switched outlets for table laps
I have to watch again, wish camera would’ve zoomed in 😂
Sorry about that, I'm going to redo all my older vids, make them easier to see and hear
No dude, don’t mind me…I appreciate the video. I appreciate it this helped me a lot 👍🏼
I used this exact method on a 15A workshop lighting circuit with a slight modification to also control the 2nd half of the receptacles. 14/2 from panel/breaker to the 3-way switch box, then 14/3 to the 2nd switch box 3-way switch (as the traveler). That 2nd switch box also had a simple SPST switch feed by the 3-way switch (its load side black). The 3-way controls the entire circuit and first half of all receptacles directly. The extra SPST feed from the load side of the 3-way switch (black), then controls the second half of the receptacles (red). The lighting outlets were then feed with 14/3 with the receptacles spilt (black to one outlet, red to the other). This allows the entire circuit to be controlled via the 3-way and the SPST controls the 2nd half of the receptacles only. The main lights and rim/task lights... all can be turned on/off via the 3-way and the rim/task lights powered on/off on top of the main lights. As per code... all grounds connected together and all neutrals connected together.
Good concise well explained video. Any reason you didn't bring the hot from the panel to the far left switch box ? New subscriber here
The reason he didn't bring the hot wire to switch one first is because all power would of been controlled by the switches. He wanted only 1/2 of the plug switched and the other half hot all the time. This is just one example of how to wire this configuration.
Thanks for the sub! If the power wire was in the far left box there would not be enough wires to get the hot and switch leg to the other switch box - in the three wire, the black and red are travelers, that leaves only the neutral white wire. You would have to run a second wire for the hot to the receptacle.
great video Tim. exacly what i want to do in my new 4 season room. I'm getting a little confused on switch box #2 where the main power comes to. Do you have a diagram of #2 switch box? thanks
Is there anyway to directly email you a ith a stupid question? I am over thinking my project and it is driving me nuts.
Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner, had health problems last year. If you ever need any help my email is tim.palmer@netech.edu.
I like to pigtai the outlets so if one goes dead it doesn’t kill the ones down stream
Very helpful video. One question maybe you can help with. My gfci in garage is 20 amp and I just replaced it. I have a 15 amp outlet that needs to be changed outside that ties to the GFCI 20 amp. Is it ok to replace the 15 amp outside with 20amp outlet? Sometimes my 15 amp is overtaking and trips the Gfci. Thanks
it depends on the size of wire. if you have a 14-2 wire it needs to have a 15 amp breaker, even if it ties into a 12-2, 20 amp wire. You have to breaker at the smaller amp. The smaller wire cannot take the heavier load and could start a fire.
Tim, Thanks for the refresher , does the last receptacle bridge on gold side needn't be cut to separate the two?
Yes, all receps need to have tab removed or they will be hot all the time
@@timpalmer-logstolumber1999 thank you again
I want to add an outlet 5 feet away a from a three way switch, but the switch that I have is the leg. Is this still possible?
If the power is running through that box to the other one.
If you didnt break the lug on the first rec but you did on the second one would the switches work or would it be hot all the time?
They would be hot because they would be getting electricity across the little piece between the screws
What if you wanted the first receptacle full hot and the second half hot? I have 8 outlets in my living room, all half hot. I want the outlet where our computer is to be hot at all times but I want the rest to be half hot.
Why did you start with switch box 2?
No reason
I have 3 way switch controls 3 split receptacles. They seems to warm up/overheat after charging phone for a 10mins. How can this be fixed? or can I convert them to permanent hot?
It could be the phone charger causing the problem. Yes you could make them hot all the time. Go into switch box and wirenut hot to switchleg bypassing the switch.
Good show.
Shouldn't that white be marked or reidintify
yes, when not used as a neutral it should be marked.
get a qualified licensed electrician never split the neutrals 30 yr master
He is only a Electrician in his Mind and that is pretty damn Stupid !!!
At what point in the video is he splitting the neutrals? Trying to understand since I am not familiar with that.
This is exactly how my house is wired by a licensed electrician for my homebuilder. I was trying to figure out why there was a hot neutral on one switch with only a 3 wire, and a neutral and red wire spliced together on the other switch, as I was going to install a smart switch and was very confused by this set up. Thanks for explaining it. I don't see how else it could be wired if there is only the one set of wires going to the first switch! You just have to label that neutral as a HOT (Line/Load/Traveler etc) with tape, which my homebuilder did not do.