I love how you showed the inexpensive option, especially with the weights. I do not have clamps and have been putting off buying them, but I see I can easily use what I have around like weights or maybe clean bricks, books etc. Thank you!
Thank you so much for sharing! Defo', the easiest way to make fake Shaker doors. Your point about the pin gun is a good one. I have an 18 and 16g second fix pin gun, but both are far too fat and long to be useful in this scenario. However, recently, I remembered the old analogue days, aka, thumping them in with a hammer, and bought some veneer pins that are only 1mm by 10 to 30mm. Perfect for the task. They won't poke through the door, or leave an excessively large pinhole to fill. The 23g pin guns, the corded and cordless ones, that is, are just far too expensive!
Never understood why it doesn’t always get done this way if it’s just MDF that’s getting painted anyway so easily just a bit of putty on that joint. Do you know any reasons why everyone tends to do it the hard way? Thanks mate 👍
Thank you so much. I was wondering how to make cabinet doors. I think I will use your method. I have a boring flat door. I might do the same on the door too.
This video is a lifesaver! accidentally used my ½" birch as the base instead of my ¼" (I typically do ¼" as the base and ½" as my trim) so this video helped remind me I can switch it up for these cabinets. One question: What type of router bit did you use?
If you plan on painting your doors then wood filler and sand should be fine. You will need a couple of coats of undercoat especially when using raw MDF. I have made many of these doors for my clients and get them sprayed in polyurethane and they come up a treat! Good luck with your project and thanks for watching 👍
If I use these in a kitchen, they are totally sealed then finished in 2 pak polyurethane and there’s no problem even using on a vanity. Providing of course you don’t go bashing or scratching deep into the surface exposing the raw MDF were you will allow moisture to enter! 👍
Yes they should do, you will need to apply a few coats of primer/undercoat and lightly sand back in between coats before applying your top finish coat. Good luck with your project and thanks for watching 👍
Yes no problem especially if you are going to paint the doors you won't notice any difference in the materials used. Sand smooth, fill in any nail holes, undercoat well then cover with at least 2 x coats of your colour. Good luck and thanks for watching👍
I've made doors that exact way the only problem Is the doors tend to bow due to the wayoff gluing stills to door. Next time i will put dots of glue to see if its any better . Cause for bow is to much glue
Pienso utilizar mdf 5/8" (9/16") y mdf 1/4" (3/16") de esta manera quedaria la puerta exactamente 3/4" de espesor....estaria bien hacerlo asi? Que me recomiendas?.... gracias de antemano por tu ayuda...saludos desde san luis rio col. Sonora, Mex.
You could use plywood if you like the only thing is the raw layers on the ends. You could use a thin 0.5mm veneer iron edge when your finished then trim flush and that would look great. see my video on applying edge banding by hand, I have done a demonstration using 0.5mm PVC but the principle is the same. Good luck with your project 👍
If your starting to do joinery ( gluing two bits of mdf together is not joinery) you best get a pin gun because your production rate is not going to make you a living working like that
I've made 1000 of door with 3/8 back panel and 3 inch wide 3/8 molding I always oversize the doors 1 /16 all the way around to trim all the way around . I always use 23 gauge pin nails and spring clamps . when you spray the first coat you can putty the nail holes then .
@geoffsjoinery4990 it wasn't worth the hassle though .I thought I had to make all my doors for my buisness when I first started 10 years ago . now I just ordered all my doors from a company that just builds doors, and they come sanded and ready to be painted . it eliminates all of the hassle . the place that this type of method is great for is making paneling for the sides and backs of islands
That’s not entirely true my friend, most concealed hinges including the BLUMOTION 110deg (71B3550) I use require a min depth cup hole of 13mm. Trust me I have been doing this for years there is no problem hinging a 16mm door. Thanks for Watching 👍
Thanks for the comment. It made me look up what the correct way to route is. It explains why it kept jumping when I was redoing my vanity top with laminate.
![Painting MDF Doors [video 407]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ZIwNJGlVtwc/mqdefault.jpg)
Just bought an older house with outdated cupboards. We are on a budget, and this fits the bill. Thank you so much for sharing.
Good on you, great to hear 👍
I love how you showed the inexpensive option, especially with the weights. I do not have clamps and have been putting off buying them, but I see I can easily use what I have around like weights or maybe clean bricks, books etc. Thank you!
Yes if you don’t have weights you can use things like bricks, buckets even filled with water or sand…good luck with your project 👍
Thank you so much for sharing! Defo', the easiest way to make fake Shaker doors. Your point about the pin gun is a good one. I have an 18 and 16g second fix pin gun, but both are far too fat and long to be useful in this scenario. However, recently, I remembered the old analogue days, aka, thumping them in with a hammer, and bought some veneer pins that are only 1mm by 10 to 30mm. Perfect for the task. They won't poke through the door, or leave an excessively large pinhole to fill.
The 23g pin guns, the corded and cordless ones, that is, are just far too expensive!
Thanks for your feedback, be sure to watch my 2nd video on making shaker doors with a slight design difference you might like...👍
Never understood why it doesn’t always get done this way if it’s just MDF that’s getting painted anyway so easily just a bit of putty on that joint. Do you know any reasons why everyone tends to do it the hard way? Thanks mate 👍
Exactly right and it’s fairly cheap too 👍
Thank you so much. I was wondering how to make cabinet doors. I think I will use your method. I have a boring flat door. I might do the same on the door too.
Good on you, have a go! Thanks for watching and your nice comment 👍
This video is a lifesaver! accidentally used my ½" birch as the base instead of my ¼" (I typically do ¼" as the base and ½" as my trim) so this video helped remind me I can switch it up for these cabinets. One question: What type of router bit did you use?
For the edges just the smallest round over bit - 1.5 (1/32” or 1/16”)
Definitely something I need to update my kitchen on a budget. Would you recommend edge banding, or wood filler and sand before painting?
If you plan on painting your doors then wood filler and sand should be fine. You will need a couple of coats of undercoat especially when using raw MDF. I have made many of these doors for my clients and get them sprayed in polyurethane and they come up a treat!
Good luck with your project and thanks for watching 👍
Great video! Thanks for sharing. Perfect timing for making my first cupboard doors!
A1 video. Please don't stop making these
Do I need a table saw? I have just about everything but that..!! 😮 thank you 🙏 like the music as well!!
Nice technique, I’m curious as to the longevity of MDF as cabinet doors in the kitchen…
If I use these in a kitchen, they are totally sealed then finished in 2 pak polyurethane and there’s no problem even using on a vanity. Providing of course you don’t go bashing or scratching deep into the surface exposing the raw MDF were you will allow moisture to enter! 👍
Great video, what thickness material is on the inside of the door? It looks like the front panel is between 2 rails/styles. Is it all 1/4 MDF?
You can use 1/4" if you like, I used 1/2"
Great idea. Will paint cover the glue lines at the edges?
Yes they should do, you will need to apply a few coats of primer/undercoat and lightly sand back in between coats before applying your top finish coat. Good luck with your project and thanks for watching 👍
For the styles and rails you use 5 mm mdf. Would hard board be the same (the material used for cabinet drawer bottoms) If so can you sand it?
Yes no problem especially if you are going to paint the doors you won't notice any difference in the materials used. Sand smooth, fill in any nail holes, undercoat well then cover with at least 2 x coats of your colour. Good luck and thanks for watching👍
Do you think I'd be able to do this with a jigsaw? I don't have the money or the space to buy any other big tools.
Thank you so much for this video, you made it so easy for me a beginner diyer.
Great to hear good on you 👍
Since you'll be painting this style door, is using glue and a few brad nails in edition to clamps a reasonable option?
Would this work with 12mm mdf with 6mm straps?
Yes 100%
Love it … simple, effective and looks perfecto
Good video. Good thing it wasn’t a windy day in your garage, your hat would’ve blown right off your head
I've made doors that exact way the only problem Is the doors tend to bow due to the wayoff gluing stills to door. Next time i will put dots of glue to see if its any better . Cause for bow is to much glue
Pienso utilizar mdf 5/8" (9/16") y mdf 1/4" (3/16") de esta manera quedaria la puerta exactamente 3/4" de espesor....estaria bien hacerlo asi? Que me recomiendas?.... gracias de antemano por tu ayuda...saludos desde san luis rio col. Sonora, Mex.
Yes that would be perfect and exactly what I have done.
👍👌
Nice, do you recommend using plywood and if so, how would I hide the edge of the plywood?
You could use plywood if you like the only thing is the raw layers on the ends. You could use a thin 0.5mm veneer iron edge when your finished then trim flush and that would look great. see my video on applying edge banding by hand, I have done a demonstration using 0.5mm PVC but the principle is the same. Good luck with your project 👍
Thank you!
put the stiles on first and then squeeze the rails in... easier for adjustment if needed
Whats the depth of panel and trim? 3/4 main and 1/4 trim????
@@bananabaird I work in mm but for you it would be around 1/2” main and 1/4” trim.
If your starting to do joinery ( gluing two bits of mdf together is not joinery) you best get a pin gun because your production rate is not going to make you a living working like that
Who did you borrow the weights off🤔
Haha I’ve had them for over 25yrs now my boys use them 🤣
You just made my profit increase big time!!! 🎉🎉🎉🎉
Great video as always thanks
Thanks so much for your support 😁
deurtjes zullen kromtrekken door het even aantal lagen
I've made 1000 of door with 3/8 back panel and 3 inch wide 3/8 molding I always oversize the doors 1 /16 all the way around to trim all the way around . I always use 23 gauge pin nails and spring clamps . when you spray the first coat you can putty the nail holes then .
Mate your a legend 👍
@geoffsjoinery4990
it wasn't worth the hassle though .I thought I had to make all my doors for my buisness when I first started 10 years ago . now I just ordered all my doors from a company that just builds doors, and they come sanded and ready to be painted . it eliminates all of the hassle . the place that this type of method is great for is making paneling for the sides and backs of islands
good
Will Screws hold good on MDF ? I doubt it
If you only have 16mm you wont get a kitchen type hinge in them they need to be thicker at least 20mm.
That’s not entirely true my friend, most concealed hinges including the BLUMOTION 110deg (71B3550) I use require a min depth cup hole of 13mm. Trust me I have been doing this for years there is no problem hinging a 16mm door. Thanks for Watching 👍
Sorry but You often trim in wrong direction.
Thanks for the comment. It made me look up what the correct way to route is. It explains why it kept jumping when I was redoing my vanity top with laminate.
I guess you haven't heard routers turn the opposite way down under😅
@@strawcarpenter9559hilarious 😂😂😂😂😂😂😊😊😊❤
😂 now that’s some cheap doors