Thanks, it is a Casstrom Lars Falt Lock Back www.casstrom.com/knives/folding-knives/casstrom-lars-falt-lock-back-folding-knife-curly-birchscandi.html . Can also be found from knife retailers around the world.
For the knives that i use for carving after setting the bevel to zero on a stone i pull them a few times through the ceramic section of a pull through plastic sharpener , this way I don't erode the vulnerable soft steel on the cheeks excessively with stropping and everytime i get a razor edge to work with wood which seems quite ok and strong , only the ceramic part and only a few light passes every half an hour in carving i do that and i quit stropping all together.There is no micro bevel as well or maybe a micron level one.
Hello, thanks for the video, but I have a question: why do you need to sharpen the scandi edge if after that you add a micro secondary bevel? It looks more simple to me just to work on a secondary bevel directly. Also it would be less steel removed than sharpening the entire scandi edge.
Thanks for the question. It is possible to sharpen only a secondary bevel, but then it will no longer be a micro bevel and over time it will make the bevel wider and the edge clumsy, reducing the cutting ability of the knife. To retain the best cutting ability the edge should be zero-grind or have a micro-bevel that is as small as possible.
That is an excellent question. And an excellent answer. As an American I have much less experience with 0° bevel, or Scandi Grinds, than the secondary bevel blades. I may have a little more experience than the average person here due to wood tool maintenance and the like. The Scandi grinds simplicity and utility-to-mainenance ratio is making it my favorite style of cutting tools.
Never tried it. Most oils wil protect a blade, but the main issue is to see what happens over time in different conditions. Maybe read up on it and find out how well it lasts when in contact with air or just test it out. If you are unsure of how foodsafe it is it is probably best to clean it off before use with food in any case.
People freaking out about the microbevel. If you want that flat bevel back just spend 30min on a rough stone. Whats the big deal? You modify the edge to your needs. Almost half of the vintage puukos I have handled have had a convex edge or distinctive microbevel for the simple reason that whoever used that knife needed that kind of grind.
Indeed. Most of the old Puukkos have a lower angle primary bevel and for this reason needs the secondary bevel. A seconday like this could take 30 minutes to remove but I would not reccommend it. The typical Scandi Bushcraft knife we make has a bevel angle of around 15 dps and a tiny microbevel is all that is needed. This only takes a couple of minutes to remove so it is unclear what people are getting upset about. My guess is that they didn't really watch the video.
I think most people complaining about the micro bevel dont even know what the are talking about but do so because they heard it on youtube. 95% of youtube clips are just crap but people make their opinions with that.
Real Puukkos or historical knives always have a convex cutting edge! The real Skandi is a Skandivex😉 if the knife is regularly sharpened by hand, a Skandivex will automatically develop over time.
Thank you for your video. I was just wondering tho that if you used Olive oil on you blade what would it do to your leather sheath over time? Have you ever used beeswax?
So the olive oil must be used in moderation on the blade like any oil or rust protector to avoid it building up over time in your sheath. If you live in a humid area the best thing is to store the knife and sheath separately when not used. Beeswax mixed with olive oil would work, but beeswax on its own would be too hard. You can also use our Lapland Leather Wax which works well.
@@CasstromSweden I have used Beeswax on my saw blades and on one of my knives. You can get it in small blocks and it is easy to rub on. You can also just heat your blade up a bit or leave it in the sun for a bit and the Beeswax will just melt onto the blade as you rub the wax along it.
Are the complaints about microbevel use coming from people with experience (I’m 65 and have been practicing for over 50 years) or just going with something John Doe said on his TH-cam channel?
Spotta på (spit on) a fine natural stone is someting grandpa suggested. He also recommended adding significant amount circular motions to get a very (very very) slight convexing.
Yes sure😶🤦♂️ Maybe for raw iron or mild steel in annealed state but anything over 55hrc witch butter soft for any cutting tool and you can go ahead and rub it for 24hours while you can finish a knife in 5passes on diamond pocket stone... For sharpening steel you need serious stone with novaculite or jnats with silica and alumina grains witch we dont have in Sverige.. Your grandpa is out of his mind vännen😂
@@tiddybearkush Nothing is impossible but hand held doesn't make a steady surface to work on. Keeping the scandi means removing relatively a lot of metal so fatigue plays a role. Also a small secondary bevel makes the edge stronger
I think you mean 1000 grit? Yes, it is usually enough to make a very good edge. However, be aware that there are different grit scales used by different manufacturers and some products that claim to be 1000 grit is in fact much more coarse. So test and see.
Just bought the Casstrom Lars Falt. Beautiful knife, however my first day out with it I was cutting off a patch of feathered stick and smacked a close by rock and put little chips in the belly. Pretty upset about that.
It makes more sense to sharpen knives in longer strokes instead of ruining the geometry with what is shown in this video. And yes I‘m using a DC3 or 4 even on 16cm blades.
Hi Boban! Thanks for commenting. 1. We find this way is effective, but of course, it is what works best for each individual that counts. There is nothing set in stone, excuse the pun! :) 2. It's not a second bevel, but a micro bevel that we recommend (if you are going to be using the knife to split wood). Thanks for watching!
It can feel strange and unsafe in the beginning, but with this size pocket sharpener, it is effective and safe when you have practiced it and have the correct skills. If you feel uncomfortable doing it this way the sharpener can be brought to the knife instead. The sharpener can also be secured flat on piece of wood and holding the knife with two hands. The important thing is to follow the scandi grind and re-sharpen the entire bevel.
Hi there! It all depends on the angle of the grind and what the knife will be used for. But this is the way we find works best for durability for most areas of use with a grind angle between 13-15 dps.
i just learned how to sharpen a scandi grind without making it look ugly thank you
That sort of comment warms the heart! We're glad if we could assist in some small way - makes it worthwhile! 😃
Thank you. Great camera placement, the scene is breathtaking!
I like your approach. Simple. Thank you
Thanks for watching the video!
Thanks for the video. Very informative.
I own the Lars Falt. The finest wilderness knife I've ever owned, and I'm a knife buff. Thanks!
Thanks for the kind words - it's much appreciated!
Love that little knife, which brand is it?
Thanks, it is a Casstrom Lars Falt Lock Back www.casstrom.com/knives/folding-knives/casstrom-lars-falt-lock-back-folding-knife-curly-birchscandi.html . Can also be found from knife retailers around the world.
@@CasstromSweden thank you
Great vid! Can you tell me what type of a knife you are using? A scandi folder?
It is the Lars Fält Lock back :) Check details on www.casstrom.com
Mineral oil works well for protection and is food safe.
That's what I use
Ballistol 😉
For the knives that i use for carving after setting the bevel to zero on a stone i pull them a few times through the ceramic section of a pull through plastic sharpener , this way I don't erode the vulnerable soft steel on the cheeks excessively with stropping and everytime i get a razor edge to work with wood which seems quite ok and strong , only the ceramic part and only a few light passes every half an hour in carving i do that and i quit stropping all together.There is no micro bevel as well or maybe a micron level one.
Sounds like you found a good way for your needs. Thanks for sharing.
Hello, thanks for the video, but I have a question: why do you need to sharpen the scandi edge if after that you add a micro secondary bevel? It looks more simple to me just to work on a secondary bevel directly. Also it would be less steel removed than sharpening the entire scandi edge.
Thanks for the question. It is possible to sharpen only a secondary bevel, but then it will no longer be a micro bevel and over time it will make the bevel wider and the edge clumsy, reducing the cutting ability of the knife. To retain the best cutting ability the edge should be zero-grind or have a micro-bevel that is as small as possible.
@@CasstromSweden Ok, I can see that. Thank you for this great answer. it will help me sharpening my knives.
That is an excellent question.
And an excellent answer.
As an American I have much less experience with 0° bevel, or Scandi Grinds, than the secondary bevel blades. I may have a little more experience than the average person here due to wood tool maintenance and the like.
The Scandi grinds simplicity and utility-to-mainenance ratio is making it my favorite style of cutting tools.
Thanks. Always a pain to keep an edge on my Helle knives ...
Thanks for this informative video, could clove oil possibly be used also as a preventative.
Never tried it. Most oils wil protect a blade, but the main issue is to see what happens over time in different conditions. Maybe read up on it and find out how well it lasts when in contact with air or just test it out. If you are unsure of how foodsafe it is it is probably best to clean it off before use with food in any case.
Very nice. I have the No10 and folding knife and love them both. ATB🏕
People freaking out about the microbevel. If you want that flat bevel back just spend 30min on a rough stone. Whats the big deal? You modify the edge to your needs. Almost half of the vintage puukos I have handled have had a convex edge or distinctive microbevel for the simple reason that whoever used that knife needed that kind of grind.
Indeed. Most of the old Puukkos have a lower angle primary bevel and for this reason needs the secondary bevel. A seconday like this could take 30 minutes to remove but I would not reccommend it. The typical Scandi Bushcraft knife we make has a bevel angle of around 15 dps and a tiny microbevel is all that is needed. This only takes a couple of minutes to remove so it is unclear what people are getting upset about. My guess is that they didn't really watch the video.
I think most people complaining about the micro bevel dont even know what the are talking about but do so because they heard it on youtube. 95% of youtube clips are just crap but people make their opinions with that.
Real Puukkos or historical knives always have a convex cutting edge! The real Skandi is a Skandivex😉 if the knife is regularly sharpened by hand, a Skandivex will automatically develop over time.
Thank you for your video. I was just wondering tho that if you used Olive oil on you blade what would it do to your leather sheath over time? Have you ever used beeswax?
So the olive oil must be used in moderation on the blade like any oil or rust protector to avoid it building up over time in your sheath. If you live in a humid area the best thing is to store the knife and sheath separately when not used. Beeswax mixed with olive oil would work, but beeswax on its own would be too hard. You can also use our Lapland Leather Wax which works well.
@@CasstromSweden I have used Beeswax on my saw blades and on one of my knives. You can get it in small blocks and it is easy to rub on. You can also just heat your blade up a bit or leave it in the sun for a bit and the Beeswax will just melt onto the blade as you rub the wax along it.
@@nealeware9163There you go. You learn something new every day. :)
Nice video thanks! Will you ever make a lars falt with bog oak handle?
Possibly, but currently no plans. Bog Oak is not a material with unlimited supply either.
Very nice vid! Would you please share the name of the knife you are using in the video??
We certainly can 🙂That is the Casström Lars Fält Lock Back - a tough folding knife that's a great little tool for carrying in the pocket!
Are the complaints about microbevel use coming from people with experience (I’m 65 and have been practicing for over 50 years) or just going with something John Doe said on his TH-cam channel?
This is it 😂
When is this prototype stone going to be available please? Perfect size for my needs! 😁
We don't have any current plans to make this particular version, but thanks for the feedback.
@CasstromSweden ah OK. hopefully one day! 🤞🏻 😁
Get a fallkjniven stone
@Ukraineaissance2014 I have a few of the cc4 and dc4 stones in various kits. This one just looked thinner so was interesting
Spotta på (spit on) a fine natural stone is someting grandpa suggested. He also recommended adding significant amount circular motions to get a very (very very) slight convexing.
Yes, that is also a good technique that can be used.
Yes sure😶🤦♂️ Maybe for raw iron or mild steel in annealed state but anything over 55hrc witch butter soft for any cutting tool and you can go ahead and rub it for 24hours while you can finish a knife in 5passes on diamond pocket stone... For sharpening steel you need serious stone with novaculite or jnats with silica and alumina grains witch we dont have in Sverige.. Your grandpa is out of his mind vännen😂
@@CasstromSwedenI dont believe you agreed with such bullsh*t mannen.. Skojar du eller😂
Actually free hand sharpening and stropping will convex the edge. That's ok and even makes for a more solid edge.
Indeed!
Not if you do it correctly. Most people won't put the time into properly free hand so I guess that's how their knives end up.
@@tiddybearkush Nothing is impossible but hand held doesn't make a steady surface to work on. Keeping the scandi means removing relatively a lot of metal so fatigue plays a role. Also a small secondary bevel makes the edge stronger
What model is the folding one used in this video? It's gorgeous.
Thanks! It's the Lars Fält Lock Back
@@CasstromSweden thanks a lot 😊
Good video! Thanks!
Thank you!
Can you use water on the diamond stone or oil? Can you recommend a good diamond sharpener?
It can be used dry or with water or spit. Problem with oil but it makes it more messy. Dianova sharpeners are good.
Jag skulle vilja ha exakt typ av kvarn, tack.
Kvarn?
What is the ideal sharpening level for a Scandi knife? Is 1000 degrees enough?
I think you mean 1000 grit? Yes, it is usually enough to make a very good edge. However, be aware that there are different grit scales used by different manufacturers and some products that claim to be 1000 grit is in fact much more coarse. So test and see.
What grade of sharpener do you use. please?
600grit
@@CasstromSweden Many Thanks!
I make sure the diamond plate is always wet with water
Thx!
where can i buy the dimondsharper you are using in the video?
Sorry, it is just a prototype, not availble to buy currently!
Just bought the Casstrom Lars Falt. Beautiful knife, however my first day out with it I was cutting off a patch of feathered stick and smacked a close by rock and put little chips in the belly. Pretty upset about that.
What is that sharpening stone called?
Sorry, it is just a prototype, not availble to buy currently!
Needs more close up my friend .
Yes, Probably :)
Just so you guys know we don't know what a centimeter is, is that like close to a quarter inch? Or one eighth
Google excels at these types of questions. They suggest approx. 0.392 inches. I would make that 2/5 of an inch right? :)
yeah a lot of us do, as well as inches ar mentioned we need to convert
1inch is 2.5cms. Use cms/mms its so much easier.
Super video.
Thank you!
What Knife and what sharpener any one have some links ?
Lars Fält Lock Back , the sharpener is a prototype, no in production yet
Thanks if it ever gets made I would love to buy a few @@CasstromSweden
It makes more sense to sharpen knives in longer strokes instead of ruining the geometry with what is shown in this video. And yes I‘m using a DC3 or 4 even on 16cm blades.
Different people have different techniques and whatever works for you is great. 👍
What grit stone to use?
600 grit is quite an allround grade.
Butter butt oil works the best .
😂Not heard of that one.
1 When you have smaller stone like yours, you take stone to the knife not other way around
2 Entire point of scandi grind is not to have second bevel
Hi Boban! Thanks for commenting.
1. We find this way is effective, but of course, it is what works best for each individual that counts. There is nothing set in stone, excuse the pun! :)
2. It's not a second bevel, but a micro bevel that we recommend (if you are going to be using the knife to split wood).
Thanks for watching!
Good way to cut your thumb, not too bright. From St.Paul,M.
It can feel strange and unsafe in the beginning, but with this size pocket sharpener, it is effective and safe when you have practiced it and have the correct skills. If you feel uncomfortable doing it this way the sharpener can be brought to the knife instead. The sharpener can also be secured flat on piece of wood and holding the knife with two hands. The important thing is to follow the scandi grind and re-sharpen the entire bevel.
Micro beveling a scandi is NOT the way to sharpen a knife. You end up rounding the edge. Poor advice my friend.
Hi there! It all depends on the angle of the grind and what the knife will be used for. But this is the way we find works best for durability for most areas of use with a grind angle between 13-15 dps.