If you ever come into a real survival situation, just sit down and start sharpening your knife. In less than 15 minutes someone will appear and tell you how to do it right in his opinion.
One other option for stropping a scandi grind without creating a convex edge is to use a hardwood strop. As a furniture-maker, this is what I do for my chisels between sharpening them with stones. All you have to do is cut a piece of hardwood so you have a very flat portion of end grain exposed and rub stropping compound into the open pores. You then have a flat, hard, durable surface charged with the fine stropping abrasive that will not convex your edge the way a leather strop will. It works incredibly well and saves me leaving the bench to sharpen on my stones. It also save wear on my nice stones and costs virtually nothing.
@Donny p. I was also a professional hand tool woodworker, reliant on ultra sharp planes and chiselsand I echo your advice. However, I would bet a fair amount of money that @Least 90% ofthe knife fetishists reading this thread Would not be able to plane a flat surface on the end grain of a piece of hardwood. That is why I recommend MDF -. It’s flat and it’s cheap.
@@MrNetnic I’m one of the dirty fetishists you speak of. Firstly, I hope you’re having a wonderful day being a worthy blade owner unlike us fetishists who get hard for sharpening blades we never use. Secondly, can you think of any way to obtain a small piece of mdf without having to purchase an entire board? I’m not a tool guy and always feel lost in the Home Depot unless I’m staring at a shiny knife edge attached to a tool I have no understanding of. Anyway, is there anything small that’s made of mdf i could purchase that I could strop my skandi grinds on. Because if I can’t achieve a hair shaving edge then I can’t get hard. And if I can’t get hard my wife gets angry. My marriage is on the line here. So, I’m begging you to once again impart your knowledge upon me and tell me how to acquire a small piece of mdf.
@@bradlarrison191 construction site scrap bins, also the hardware store will generally cut that plank down for you, if you ask nicely ofc. but is having some excess wood ever really a bad thing? your wife apparently thinks not haha
Scandi is delicate. I have no problem with the slightly convexed edge. Stays sharp longer. And I take the stone to the blade. It's so much more controllable to me.
Your tutelage is incredible. You explained it, clearly, and in a way that helped others, saved them money, and did you no financial food aside from bolstering your credibility. You did quite well. I've now subscribed.
They hold an edge somewhat longer. You don't need necessarily need a strop for any reason with any bevel. A strop is for honing, and polishing out the microserration as well as the steel itself, your edge will potentially last longer (if you didn't try to sharpen with a strop and make your edge atomically thin) and be prettier, not necessarily perform better. Convex is the best bevel for holding an edge, which means it is the best bevel period (but especially for bushcraft/survival)
@@SoftBreadSoftware The reason our knifes have flat bevels is to give good support while carving wood, Like the sole of a plane. Its also resonable good at general work but does not really good at standing up to abuse, traditionally axes/hatchets or perhaps sami chopping knives or sometimes a second "beater knife" were used for that, either with sligthly steeper angle "scandi" edges for carving use or convex grind for chopping use. Convex grind is better at cutting throug stuff, and as most mora knives are used on the workplace or home to cut, pry and poke around the manufacturers ship them with slightly to shallow angle grinds with the micro bevel to make them better cutters and to hold up to abuse better.
@@borjesvensson8661 Sharpened my mora to a true scandi, only to find out that it made the knife worthless by doing so. That steel with that true zero edge simply didn't hold up to *any* actual use. Light wood carving mangled the delicate edge. Wound up having to put the secondary bevel back on. Works fine now.
This makes a lot of sense. I just got my first scandi grind knife and the #1 reason was ease of sharpening. So I better make sure it STAYS easy to sharpen!
Aaaaand that is another reason the low end Mora's are great, you can sacrifice one or two to learning how to sharpen Scandi grinds correctly on a real Scandi grind with decent steel without ruining more expensive knives.
@Gray Au i dont think scandi sucks in general, in my opinion it is sometimes too demanding for the steel quality. For exmple, my Mora Companion came with scandi grind with a micro bevel (i dont like to call this sabre grind since the secondary bevel was only about quarter of milimeter wide). When i tried to sharpen it like a full scandi, i ended with an edge that was to thin and got bent during casual cutting task. Instead of reprofiling the whole blade or returning to the secondary bevel i went for the scandivex grind and cant comply about the edge retention now.
@@s7r49 Yeah..I've wasted countless hours trying to sharpen a "scandi" Mora, until I took a new one, put it under a microscope, and observed a distinct secondary / micro bevel. What is the point of them being sold as Scandi grinds, when they aren't scandi grinds? Literally the whole point is to have a very easy to sharpen profile that anyone can do, even out in the field.
@Ryan Boswood In my experience its all about practice. Practice and reasonable quality stones, which should be in ideal case pretty flat (no need to go crazy, but it helps for me). As far as I know, the scandi grinds are tricky in the way that while they allow you to set the sharpening angle on pretty easily, you need to take off quite a lot of material in comparison to a secondary bevel grind. This means that any minor mistake that you make gets amplified quite a lot. For example, if you tend to rock or tilt the blade on the end or beginning of each stroke, after a greater number of repetitions it might eventually round your bevel, making it slightly convex. After that, finding the correct angle to sharpen on again can be a bit difficult. If I were you, I wouldnt be really afraid of ruining cheap knives - I am not sure what you ment by "totally destroying", but unless you remove so much material that the knife isnt able to hold up, you most likely haven't done anything what somebody with some sharpening experience couldnt fix. The only reason why I would not recommed starting with expensive knives is the fact that you could damage them cosmetically, and while this is fine with cheap things, you most likely want your more valuable ones to be nice and shiny/satine/stonewash/whatever finish you like :P
Mors Kochanski used a strop, Ray Mears applies a micro bevel, and furthermore, traditional Scandinavian knives were very high convex grinds. A zero grind is actually very delicate on the cutting edge, and can chip out easily.
Yup, also; Cody Lundin uses sandpaper, no stones (for more than 30 years now). On cardboard or something like that. A little convex is not bad but good. And what Kyle gets from customers, seems to be cases of completely focusing on the apex when stropping. Then you get the overly rounding effect. When keeping the whole bevel on the leather or sandpaper, it will work fine. No stones needed.
The Mora Companion used to come with the sabre grind, not sure if it still does, but the last one I bought had the secondary micro bevel. I got rid of the micro bevel as soon as I got it home. I have found that the skandi is my favorite blade grind for its versatility and its simplicity.
Some might argue that a scadi-vex is better than a true scandi, and it was used originally, the flat scandi grind is a relatively new thing, that only came about with modern machinery in the factories of the last century or so.
You can strop with compound directly on a flat board. The leather of the strop compresses resulting in the rounding of the apex. For a bushcraft knife you might actually want this to strengthen the edge but when I am carving (mora 106) I use compound straight onto the board and it keeps a flatter bevel.
EXACTLY !!! If I really wanted to strop, I would use compound, or the slurry off an 8000 grit stone, on a piece of MDF. As far as I am concerned, the ultimate Scandi grind is the ultimate fragile edge. You are not taking your knife into the wilderness to make a fine furniture, Or to cut pieces of paper FFS. A knife that you take camping with you is a relatively crude tool That needs a combination of reasonable sharpness and reliable edge strength.
Thank you very much for this video, it's very very helpful. I had a hunch of this proven theory about using strops with compound that can round off the edge because the grind is not lying completely flat on the surface of the sharpening tool. does this also apply to slightly convexed scandi grinds? Is there a video for secondary V Edge sharpening?
I just purchased a scandi grind folder, this was superbly illustrated. And therefore super appreciated to extend the life of my knife through your knowledge. Greetings from New Zealand 🙏
Thank you, that explains why my blade edges seem to be dulling on 1/8 inch tanned leather cowhide with polishing compound, but I get a great polish using compound on thin suede like leather (from an old welding glove) stapled to a piece of wood. I'm applying to much pressure when stropping and the 1/8" leather has give to it where i'm rolling into the edge and eating it away as to where the thin leather has the hard wood backing to support my blade edge as i polish it. Eye opening O_O
Good information. I have sharpened many knives, but all of them have microbevels. Just got my first Scandi Grind, soon it feels odd not keeping the large bevel touching the stone while sharpening. I rarely strop, but I do routinely hone on ceramic rod. Would honing be a problem with Scandi grinds, since the contact is made only on the edge and not the entire bevel?
yeah I just had to save a mora from a belt sander today. picked up the classic number one for ten bucks to get it away from the guy with the belt sander the flea market. Unfortunately I wasn't able to save him from putting a secondary bevel on it so I'm debating on if I should reprofile it or not. what do you think?
Good tip. I recently bought a scandi grind knife for bushcraft and am looking forward to a easier method of sharpening. I would have stropped it the way you warned not to. You saved me some frustration.
Great vid! Helps me alot. May I ask what degree should a true scandi be? My tops bob scandi is at 11.8 degrees with a 20 degree micro bevel. My work tuff gear mt bushman’s scandi is at 8.9 degrees with a 20 degree micro bevel. Both are like this from the factory. Was thinking to make them both true scandi’s. Do you have any advise for me?
What if I want a convex grind, will stropping on a leather keep my convex edge? Or what if I have a micro-bevel on a flat or scandi grind, how do I resharpen that micro-bevel?
Stropping on leather will help to keep your convex, for sure. You would sharpen a micro bevel just as you would sharpen any knife, say a buck 110, with a small secondary bevel.
Good video. I skipped watching this video every time it popped up because I just assumed it was about people sharpening their scandi's as if they were regular knives and adding a secondary bevel. Now I'm glad I did watch it, I've been touching up my Mora on a straight razor strop and it has given it a slight convex. From now on I'll only use the plain leather side instead of the compound side.
Just got a Mora Robust. As I'd like to learn to sharpen properly before buying expensive knife. Really don't know what to buy to maintain. Stone ,strop etc. Could you recommend what to buy for a beginner here in Ireland ??
"Pure" Scandi grinds IMHO have one purpose WHITTLING. But even then as someone who whittles about an hour a day I find a scandiVex or full flatVex blend to be superior . Knife use through hundreds of hours will teach you much about grinds and which ones work best. Ruining a scandi is when a person puts it through a worksharp but basic microvexing an edge is natural. If done right it will save you steel and money.
So the sabre bevel is the micro edge you were removing from your Mora video right? You were sharpening and honing a scandi bevel back onto it and then you polished the entire grind to a mirror polish....it was exciting.
Okay. Scandi - use a flat stone. Now I know what I keep doing wrong. Please tell me how do sharpen AND MAINTAIN a sabre grind. Excellent and to the point video.
I really needed this video. I'm having this problem and couldn't work out what was happening. After watching your video I think that this is the case. Thanks
Funny, i stumbled across this video at 2 am and it just solved my recent knife predicament. I made a new strop out of some scrap veg. tan and i stropped my mora 511. I thought it would be shaving sharp but it couldn't even cut paper! I thought my angle was too steep and i goof'd up but this video just answered that question.
Scandi its really hard to maintain perfectly flat because the stone wears out and then getting it back perfectly sharp becomes almost impossible. I have a mora that gave me a lot of grief until i put it on the work sharp and convert it into convex. It worked best on 15 degrees angle and now the knife is really sharp and you can easily refine the edge on a strop.
Did it ever occur to you that a lot of people actually prefer a microbevel (a shallow convex ideally) for a general use knife (myself included)? For a woodworking only knife, a 0 degree scandi is perfect for sure, but it won't hold up well cutting much else. Try hitting a bone directly with a 0 degree bevel and see what happens. Also, there is no such thing as a true scandinavian grind (I see this misconception a lot). Most were either slightly convex or concave, historically. Being scandinavian I've used this type of knife all my life, and I've come to prefer the microbevel for the extra stability. EDIT: Basically I'm saying this is all about personal preference. There is no absolute right way of sharpening, or stropping, a knife.
Did it occur to you, maybe didn't make this video for you, no need for all the blah blah blah Then you go on to say, "for a woodworking knife, blah blah blah, well maybe he was talking to the woodworkers, hope you ego is ok by now. Oh and try using a saw on that there bone, why would you "try hitting a bone directly with a 0 degree bevel" anyway, unless you dislike safety and the knife.
@@joelbenoitthewanderingbiso4976 I think his comments was great.....what's a youtube video without opposing opinions......you dont make a youtube video and dont expect people to comment
I totally agree with Corpserated. I sharpen my Mora's on a sandpaper+sanding block backing. Then finish off with the strop. The sandpaper is on the softer backing of the sanding block. I DO want the scandivex grind. That's a good thing.
Can the edge still remain sharp that way? I have a 1075 steel knife whose edge rolls easily with light use and I was guided towards creating that micro convex edge with a thick strop to counteract the inherent weakness of the metal/edge. Any advice? Thank you for your video by the way!
so vege tan strop is what we need to strop with and keep the scandi angle I was wondering why it gets so much harder to sharpen over time I have a guided sharpening system so it's easier to just sharpen it that way but it doesn't sharpen a scandi angle
A very good reason why I do my stropping on a pine board (no leather) with compound directly on the wood. And when it begins to deform, it’s kindling! Obviously, it needs to be a perfectly clear board with straight grain.
Found this video just in time,I thought if I kept on top of things with the strop it would be better for the blade but I see now how that is not right,mine was starting to convex after only a few strops.
It becomes a scandivex. [2] And it may performs even better, hold an edge better, less chips. I like it. Although, I try not to raise the angle not to convex to much. Last time on stones, I've modifeid my Mora, reduced the angle, raised the bevel line and stroped. So it seems like a tommy pukko. Bites much deeper in wood and the convex edge reduces the chiping issue. I like it. Still make great feathers.
I just bought two Scandi knive models, same company. One was true Scandi edge the other had a micro bevel on its edge. I was surprised. I just honed the the micro bevel to very fine smooth edge to make it cut smoother. What else can I do? Disappointed!
Well apparently I put a saber grind on my mora still cuts well tho , maybe I will invest the time to make it a scandi again anyway thanks for the video
Kyle, what would you do if your “scandi” came with a small micro bevel, like the Terävä Jääkäripuukko 140 or the TOPS BOB ? Sharpen normally or like a Scandi and remove the micro bevel?
If you want to use it for woodcarving "slöjd" style you should regrind it to about a 22° to 26° straight single bevel depending on steel quality and wood hardness. A concave bevel from a big rotating waterstone (25-50cm ø) in the middle of the flat bevel is normal if using such grinding stones and small secondary bevels on the backside towards the blade is nothing to worry about. The true "scandi" grind is really a specialised carving grind that we used on all our belt knives as carving was a part of everyday life in the countryside here to solve small woodworking tasks. They come from the factory like that as it is a easier grind for the manufacturers and more durable to abuse. If you plan to use the knife as a hunting or general use knife i would perhaps keep it as is since it will cut sligthy easier through things and will be slightly more durable. Or add a second knife on the belt for such tasks. Not uncommon amongs people who care about their knifes here.
Sanding belts and leather strops will form slight convex bevels, even working on a wet stone by hand will tend to convex as the wrist flexes. A fixed angle jig would form a flat edge. Thick blades over 1/8th" tend not to perform well with a Scandinavian grind as the edge angle is too severe. My family bloodlines came from Sami of Inari and some old blades I have seen are all convex edged (both on 'leuku' and 'puukko' sized blades). I have heard from people who have researched this topic that mechanized mass production resulted in what we believe is the flat grind profile 'Scandi' we see today. Thanks for opening up this discussion :)
I sharpen all my Mora's on sandpaper and keep them sharp by stropping. The sanding blocks with spring clips have the somewhat soft backing. Perfect for sharpening a scandi grind knife to convex it slightly.. No stones needed. And the scandivex is best. A slight convex grind. Makes the edge tougher, but still very sharp.
Thanks so much for the clear explanation, but I have one question: what happena when you have to sharp a black scandi knive like Mora Black bushcraft? You should remove the black finish when you put bevel flat to sharp it. How can I preserve it? Thanks
They come with a micro bevel. Just sharpen that if you want to preserve the coating. Kind of defeats the benefit of a scandi so I sharpened mine flat, which removed the coating and then re- added the micro bevel (its very much a micro bevel, tiny). I like the look of the shiny metal along with the black. You’ll need to keep it oiled though once you do that.
Really enjoyed this and love the new episode format! I think this will be a great series. I'm not so focused on sharpening techniques and I know others aren't as well so this will offer a really nice service for those of us that need to learn more about how to sharpen and maintain our edges! Good job! P.S. how's the leg?👍👍👍
Ure right....... I get a bit carried away with my Bark River stropping compound. works find for my convex grinds but perhaps not advisable for scandis. Since I use a polishing stone anyway I guess the compound strop (12K) is pointless
For my user scandi's I actually want that small secondary convex edge. They even call it a scandivex. So I strop them before even taking them out in the field. A true scandi is way to weak for serious carving most of all some harder woods. The edge will roll on you. I tested a true factory scandi knife in Colombia and the first piece of hardwood I tried to cut the edge had a visible roll. So what you say is correct but who wants a true scandi knife for actual work in the field?
@@declanthiele No. Just a full scandi makes the edge to weak. To thin no matter the temper or steel. It all depends on the angle of the scandi of course. After some stropping these blades can withstand batoning even. So if it's just cutting fruits and vegetables (soft materials) keep that super thin edge. If you also want to do some woodwork give it a strop depending on the angle of the scandi.
Steve Brettell absolutely nothing. If it has the same edge angle as the scandi, in normal use it will maintain its edge for the same time duration, though due to less friction it will bite deeper with push cuts into wood, like a scandi-vex
i hear people using secondary grind/edge/bevel interchangeably with micro grind/edge/bevel, but here's how I like to make the distinction. On saber grinds, you can clearly see the "secondary" bevel, it's certainly nowhere near as long as the primary, but you can clearly see that edge. Whereas for scandi, I do sharpen (since it typically doesn't need reprofiling, on higher grit stones) them to scandi zero, but raise them ever so slightly for a micro edge on finer/finishing stone. These micro edges are visually not as prominent as the secondary edge on a saber grind. Of course another thing to point out is that the primary bevel on saber is a lot shallower than the angle of a scandi knife. Anyway, long story short, I like having micro bevels on scandi knives; I feel you get over 90% of the cutting performance (if not more) and a lot tougher edge. I also love sabers too though; one can never have too many knives (unless you ask my wife....)
I agree with you. I also microbevel my scans is because a true Scandinavian edge on my Finnish puukkos and I see the edge literally flexing while working on harder woods. I know that puukkos are meant to whittle softer woods though. But where I live we have harder woods as well. A week Scandi edge is not practical for me.
![Repairing the worst MORA BUSHCRAFT I have ever seen! - [WATERSTONE SHARPENING]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cuZHrq-zQ4Y/mqdefault.jpg)
![Repairing the worst MORA BUSHCRAFT I have ever seen! - [WATERSTONE SHARPENING]](/img/tr.png)
If you ever come into a real survival situation, just sit down and start sharpening your knife.
In less than 15 minutes someone will appear and tell you how to do it right in his opinion.
This also works for cooking animals.
Underrated comment
?
😂😂😂
🤣😂🤣🇧🇷
One other option for stropping a scandi grind without creating a convex edge is to use a hardwood strop. As a furniture-maker, this is what I do for my chisels between sharpening them with stones. All you have to do is cut a piece of hardwood so you have a very flat portion of end grain exposed and rub stropping compound into the open pores. You then have a flat, hard, durable surface charged with the fine stropping abrasive that will not convex your edge the way a leather strop will. It works incredibly well and saves me leaving the bench to sharpen on my stones. It also save wear on my nice stones and costs virtually nothing.
@Donny p. I was also a professional hand tool woodworker, reliant on ultra sharp planes and chiselsand I echo your advice. However, I would bet a fair amount of money that @Least 90% ofthe knife fetishists reading this thread Would not be able to plane a flat surface on the end grain of a piece of hardwood. That is why I recommend MDF -. It’s flat and it’s cheap.
@@MrNetnic I’m one of the dirty fetishists you speak of. Firstly, I hope you’re having a wonderful day being a worthy blade owner unlike us fetishists who get hard for sharpening blades we never use. Secondly, can you think of any way to obtain a small piece of mdf without having to purchase an entire board? I’m not a tool guy and always feel lost in the Home Depot unless I’m staring at a shiny knife edge attached to a tool I have no understanding of. Anyway, is there anything small that’s made of mdf i could purchase that I could strop my skandi grinds on. Because if I can’t achieve a hair shaving edge then I can’t get hard. And if I can’t get hard my wife gets angry. My marriage is on the line here. So, I’m begging you to once again impart your knowledge upon me and tell me how to acquire a small piece of mdf.
@@bradlarrison191 construction site scrap bins, also the hardware store will generally cut that plank down for you, if you ask nicely ofc. but is having some excess wood ever really a bad thing? your wife apparently thinks not haha
Scandi is delicate. I have no problem with the slightly convexed edge. Stays sharp longer. And I take the stone to the blade. It's so much more controllable to me.
Using the white board makes a great video. You explain things well with the illustrations.
Thanks so much! I appreciate that :-)
Your tutelage is incredible. You explained it, clearly, and in a way that helped others, saved them money, and did you no financial food aside from bolstering your credibility. You did quite well.
I've now subscribed.
I've heard that Scandivex is the absolute best edge you can have on a bushcraft knife so thats why they strop with compounds.
They hold an edge somewhat longer. You don't need necessarily need a strop for any reason with any bevel. A strop is for honing, and polishing out the microserration as well as the steel itself, your edge will potentially last longer (if you didn't try to sharpen with a strop and make your edge atomically thin) and be prettier, not necessarily perform better.
Convex is the best bevel for holding an edge, which means it is the best bevel period (but especially for bushcraft/survival)
@@SoftBreadSoftware The reason our knifes have flat bevels is to give good support while carving wood, Like the sole of a plane. Its also resonable good at general work but does not really good at standing up to abuse, traditionally axes/hatchets or perhaps sami chopping knives or sometimes a second "beater knife" were used for that, either with sligthly steeper angle "scandi" edges for carving use or convex grind for chopping use. Convex grind is better at cutting throug stuff, and as most mora knives are used on the workplace or home to cut, pry and poke around the manufacturers ship them with slightly to shallow angle grinds with the micro bevel to make them better cutters and to hold up to abuse better.
@@borjesvensson8661 Sharpened my mora to a true scandi, only to find out that it made the knife worthless by doing so. That steel with that true zero edge simply didn't hold up to *any* actual use. Light wood carving mangled the delicate edge.
Wound up having to put the secondary bevel back on. Works fine now.
This makes a lot of sense. I just got my first scandi grind knife and the #1 reason was ease of sharpening. So I better make sure it STAYS easy to sharpen!
Aaaaand that is another reason the low end Mora's are great, you can sacrifice one or two to learning how to sharpen Scandi grinds correctly on a real Scandi grind with decent steel without ruining more expensive knives.
absolutely!
@Gray Au i dont think scandi sucks in general, in my opinion it is sometimes too demanding for the steel quality. For exmple, my Mora Companion came with scandi grind with a micro bevel (i dont like to call this sabre grind since the secondary bevel was only about quarter of milimeter wide). When i tried to sharpen it like a full scandi, i ended with an edge that was to thin and got bent during casual cutting task. Instead of reprofiling the whole blade or returning to the secondary bevel i went for the scandivex grind and cant comply about the edge retention now.
@@s7r49 Yeah..I've wasted countless hours trying to sharpen a "scandi" Mora, until I took a new one, put it under a microscope, and observed a distinct secondary / micro bevel. What is the point of them being sold as Scandi grinds, when they aren't scandi grinds? Literally the whole point is to have a very easy to sharpen profile that anyone can do, even out in the field.
Amen to that
@Ryan Boswood In my experience its all about practice. Practice and reasonable quality stones, which should be in ideal case pretty flat (no need to go crazy, but it helps for me).
As far as I know, the scandi grinds are tricky in the way that while they allow you to set the sharpening angle on pretty easily, you need to take off quite a lot of material in comparison to a secondary bevel grind. This means that any minor mistake that you make gets amplified quite a lot. For example, if you tend to rock or tilt the blade on the end or beginning of each stroke, after a greater number of repetitions it might eventually round your bevel, making it slightly convex. After that, finding the correct angle to sharpen on again can be a bit difficult.
If I were you, I wouldnt be really afraid of ruining cheap knives - I am not sure what you ment by "totally destroying", but unless you remove so much material that the knife isnt able to hold up, you most likely haven't done anything what somebody with some sharpening experience couldnt fix. The only reason why I would not recommed starting with expensive knives is the fact that you could damage them cosmetically, and while this is fine with cheap things, you most likely want your more valuable ones to be nice and shiny/satine/stonewash/whatever finish you like :P
Mors Kochanski used a strop, Ray Mears applies a micro bevel, and furthermore, traditional Scandinavian knives were very high convex grinds. A zero grind is actually very delicate on the cutting edge, and can chip out easily.
Yup, also; Cody Lundin uses sandpaper, no stones (for more than 30 years now).
On cardboard or something like that.
A little convex is not bad but good.
And what Kyle gets from customers, seems to be cases of completely focusing on the apex when stropping.
Then you get the overly rounding effect.
When keeping the whole bevel on the leather or sandpaper, it will work fine.
No stones needed.
Very good explanation as to why scandis can get ruined. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the tip, I have been stropping my blades, but I'm going to try your advice out and see what difference it makes.
Thank you very much for the info! The over-convexing has always been an issue with my scandi grind knives.
Great simplified lesson for an amateur as myself. Thank you and Merry Christmas. 🎄
This is the best video I have seen so far explaining these two different grinds
The Mora Companion used to come with the sabre grind, not sure if it still does, but the last one I bought had the secondary micro bevel. I got rid of the micro bevel as soon as I got it home. I have found that the skandi is my favorite blade grind for its versatility and its simplicity.
Excellent video. I used to have this problem off and on till I figured out what you've explained very nicely with the diagrams.
Some might argue that a scadi-vex is better than a true scandi, and it was used originally, the flat scandi grind is a relatively new thing, that only came about with modern machinery in the factories of the last century or so.
good info on how to prevent damage on scandi grinds, but you also helped me with some insight on how to get a good convex grind as well! thank you!
You can strop with compound directly on a flat board. The leather of the strop compresses resulting in the rounding of the apex. For a bushcraft knife you might actually want this to strengthen the edge but when I am carving (mora 106) I use compound straight onto the board and it keeps a flatter bevel.
EXACTLY !!! If I really wanted to strop, I would use compound, or the slurry off an 8000 grit stone, on a piece of MDF. As far as I am concerned, the ultimate Scandi grind is the ultimate fragile edge. You are not taking your knife into the wilderness to make a fine furniture, Or to cut pieces of paper FFS. A knife that you take camping with you is a relatively crude tool That needs a combination of reasonable sharpness and reliable edge strength.
Thank you very much for this video, it's very very helpful. I had a hunch of this proven theory about using strops with compound that can round off the edge because the grind is not lying completely flat on the surface of the sharpening tool. does this also apply to slightly convexed scandi grinds? Is there a video for secondary V Edge sharpening?
What do you think about something like an MDF strop loaded with compound? Shouldn't convex the edge at all, but still polishes the bevel.
Thanks. Nice to know that strops are better WITHOUT compounds. Really makes things easier...
I just purchased a scandi grind folder, this was superbly illustrated. And therefore super appreciated to extend the life of my knife through your knowledge. Greetings from New Zealand 🙏
Thank you, that explains why my blade edges seem to be dulling on 1/8 inch tanned leather cowhide with polishing compound, but I get a great polish using compound on thin suede like leather (from an old welding glove) stapled to a piece of wood. I'm applying to much pressure when stropping and the 1/8" leather has give to it where i'm rolling into the edge and eating it away as to where the thin leather has the hard wood backing to support my blade edge as i polish it. Eye opening O_O
Glad you're progressing in your techniques my friend! Thanks for watching!
Good information. I have sharpened many knives, but all of them have microbevels. Just got my first Scandi Grind, soon it feels odd not keeping the large bevel touching the stone while sharpening. I rarely strop, but I do routinely hone on ceramic rod. Would honing be a problem with Scandi grinds, since the contact is made only on the edge and not the entire bevel?
yeah I just had to save a mora from a belt sander today. picked up the classic number one for ten bucks to get it away from the guy with the belt sander the flea market. Unfortunately I wasn't able to save him from putting a secondary bevel on it so I'm debating on if I should reprofile it or not. what do you think?
Good tip. I recently bought a scandi grind knife for bushcraft and am looking forward to a easier method of sharpening. I would have stropped it the way you warned not to. You saved me some frustration.
Thanks YJ!
Great vid! Helps me alot. May I ask what degree should a true scandi be? My tops bob scandi is at 11.8 degrees with a 20 degree micro bevel. My work tuff gear mt bushman’s scandi is at 8.9 degrees with a 20 degree micro bevel. Both are like this from the factory. Was thinking to make them both true scandi’s. Do you have any advise for me?
What if I want a convex grind, will stropping on a leather keep my convex edge? Or what if I have a micro-bevel on a flat or scandi grind, how do I resharpen that micro-bevel?
Stropping on leather will help to keep your convex, for sure. You would sharpen a micro bevel just as you would sharpen any knife, say a buck 110, with a small secondary bevel.
hi there! great explanation.what are the best grits to sharpen the knife? just for bushcraft and utilitarian purposes, not aesthetics
Never owned a Scandi knife and had no idea about this. thanks for the info bro!
my pleasure Kev!
Excellent illustration! I said out loud to myself: good guy... He definitely knows what he's talking about!!!
Do fixed angle sharpeners , for example the Edge pro, Hapstone, and wicked edge allow for zero Scandi sharpening?
I have a very good old leather belt. Will it be useful to use two strokes lying tight next to each other to make it a strop?
Good video. I skipped watching this video every time it popped up because I just assumed it was about people sharpening their scandi's as if they were regular knives and adding a secondary bevel. Now I'm glad I did watch it, I've been touching up my Mora on a straight razor strop and it has given it a slight convex. From now on I'll only use the plain leather side instead of the compound side.
Just got a Mora Robust. As I'd like to learn to sharpen properly before buying expensive knife. Really don't know what to buy to maintain. Stone ,strop etc. Could you recommend what to buy for a beginner here in Ireland ??
is their a way to sharpen Hollow grinds, without a belt sander?(concave grind)
"Pure" Scandi grinds IMHO have one
purpose WHITTLING.
But even then as someone who whittles about an hour a day I find a scandiVex or full flatVex blend to be superior .
Knife use through hundreds of hours will teach you much about grinds and which ones work best.
Ruining a scandi is when a person puts it through a worksharp but basic microvexing an edge is natural. If done right it will save you steel and money.
So the sabre bevel is the micro edge you were removing from your Mora video right? You were sharpening and honing a scandi bevel back onto it and then you polished the entire grind to a mirror polish....it was exciting.
I don't have a knife with a skandi grind yet. But how often would you need to sharpen it, because that's a lot of surface to sharpen?
Well good deal, I have been taking all of my blades to a true or mostly true scandi grind.
Seems easier to maintain the edge also.
Thanks for that. Good on you.
Thanks for the great vid. I notice a lot of people not lapping their stone either
Okay. Scandi - use a flat stone. Now I know what I keep doing wrong.
Please tell me how do sharpen AND MAINTAIN a sabre grind.
Excellent and to the point video.
I really needed this video. I'm having this problem and couldn't work out what was happening. After watching your video I think that this is the case.
Thanks
Awesome review! Extremely helpful!
Funny, i stumbled across this video at 2 am and it just solved my recent knife predicament. I made a new strop out of some scrap veg. tan and i stropped my mora 511. I thought it would be shaving sharp but it couldn't even cut paper! I thought my angle was too steep and i goof'd up but this video just answered that question.
good tip, thank you
Scandi its really hard to maintain perfectly flat because the stone wears out and then getting it back perfectly sharp becomes almost impossible. I have a mora that gave me a lot of grief until i put it on the work sharp and convert it into convex. It worked best on 15 degrees angle and now the knife is really sharp and you can easily refine the edge on a strop.
What about using a ceramic rod? will that mess up the edge?
Did it ever occur to you that a lot of people actually prefer a microbevel (a shallow convex ideally) for a general use knife (myself included)?
For a woodworking only knife, a 0 degree scandi is perfect for sure, but it won't hold up well cutting much else. Try hitting a bone directly with a 0 degree bevel and see what happens.
Also, there is no such thing as a true scandinavian grind (I see this misconception a lot). Most were either slightly convex or concave, historically. Being scandinavian I've used this type of knife all my life, and I've come to prefer the microbevel for the extra stability.
EDIT: Basically I'm saying this is all about personal preference. There is no absolute right way of sharpening, or stropping, a knife.
exactly if you touch anything hard like bone with the edge of a zero flat grind scandi it will roll or chip. Micro convex edge will resist this
Did it occur to you, maybe didn't make this video for you, no need for all the blah blah blah
Then you go on to say, "for a woodworking knife, blah blah blah, well maybe he was talking to the woodworkers, hope you ego is ok by now.
Oh and try using a saw on that there bone,
why would you "try hitting a bone directly with a 0 degree bevel" anyway, unless you dislike safety and the knife.
@@joelbenoitthewanderingbiso4976 I think his comments was great.....what's a youtube video without opposing opinions......you dont make a youtube video and dont expect people to comment
I totally agree with Corpserated.
I sharpen my Mora's on a sandpaper+sanding block backing. Then finish off with the strop.
The sandpaper is on the softer backing of the sanding block.
I DO want the scandivex grind. That's a good thing.
Short & concise. Excellent!
Can the edge still remain sharp that way? I have a 1075 steel knife whose edge rolls easily with light use and I was guided towards creating that micro convex edge with a thick strop to counteract the inherent weakness of the metal/edge. Any advice? Thank you for your video by the way!
Yes if you increase the bevel angle. 22° to 26° is common on woodcarving knifes.
so vege tan strop is what we need to strop with and keep the scandi angle
I was wondering why it gets so much harder to sharpen over time
I have a guided sharpening system so it's easier to just sharpen it that way but it doesn't sharpen a scandi angle
A very good reason why I do my stropping on a pine board (no leather) with compound directly on the wood. And when it begins to deform, it’s kindling! Obviously, it needs to be a perfectly clear board with straight grain.
Just got a Helle Skala Folder. Scandi secondary grind, but with a micro-bevel on the primary!
Great video, answered a question I’d had for a long time. I’d seen that but couldn’t work out why it was happening. I’ll stick with the stone.
Found this video just in time,I thought if I kept on top of things with the strop it would be better for the blade but I see now how that is not right,mine was starting to convex after only a few strops.
Yea it can happen quickly!
It becomes a scandivex. [2]
And it may performs even better, hold an edge better, less chips. I like it.
Although, I try not to raise the angle not to convex to much.
Last time on stones, I've modifeid my Mora, reduced the angle, raised the bevel line and stroped. So it seems like a tommy pukko. Bites much deeper in wood and the convex edge reduces the chiping issue. I like it. Still make great feathers.
How do I maintain a scandi grind with a micro bevel ?
I just bought two Scandi knive models, same company. One was true Scandi edge the other had a micro bevel on its edge. I was surprised. I just honed the the micro bevel to very fine smooth edge to make it cut smoother. What else can I do? Disappointed!
A lot of knives advertised with a scandi grind come with a secondary bevel though, even from Mora.
I just use the back of my belt. Works great. After batoning a 1075 Condor Bushlore, that's all I need to do to hone the edge.
Awesome for the tip getting my first scandi bushcraft knife .
Can you do it with a rod laid flat if you pull it in a across motion?
How can I fix it. I Turnt my Scandi into that weird shape. Is there a way to fix it?
So for sharpening the knife or better maintaining the sharpness in the "Field" you recommend a 10 000 er Stone?
Thx.
No, nowhere close to that in my opinion! For woods maintenance, try 2000!
Well apparently I put a saber grind on my mora still cuts well tho , maybe I will invest the time to make it a scandi again anyway thanks for the video
Thanks for pointing that out, and everyone thx for the good info in the comments!
good stuff Kyle,
Makes sense to me! Time to be more careful on the leather.
thanks for watching!
Kyle, what would you do if your “scandi” came with a small micro bevel, like the Terävä Jääkäripuukko 140 or the TOPS BOB ? Sharpen normally or like a Scandi and remove the micro bevel?
If you want to use it for woodcarving "slöjd" style you should regrind it to about a 22° to 26° straight single bevel depending on steel quality and wood hardness. A concave bevel from a big rotating waterstone (25-50cm ø) in the middle of the flat bevel is normal if using such grinding stones and small secondary bevels on the backside towards the blade is nothing to worry about.
The true "scandi" grind is really a specialised carving grind that we used on all our belt knives as carving was a part of everyday life in the countryside here to solve small woodworking tasks. They come from the factory like that as it is a easier grind for the manufacturers and more durable to abuse. If you plan to use the knife as a hunting or general use knife i would perhaps keep it as is since it will cut sligthy easier through things and will be slightly more durable. Or add a second knife on the belt for such tasks. Not uncommon amongs people who care about their knifes here.
Thank you! Great video!
These are very correct tips. Thank you from the other side of the ocean!
Great vid mate. Cheers
Sanding belts and leather strops will form slight convex bevels, even working on a wet stone by hand will tend to convex as the wrist flexes. A fixed angle jig would form a flat edge. Thick blades over 1/8th" tend not to perform well with a Scandinavian grind as the edge angle is too severe. My family bloodlines came from Sami of Inari and some old blades I have seen are all convex edged (both on 'leuku' and 'puukko' sized blades). I have heard from people who have researched this topic that mechanized mass production resulted in what we believe is the flat grind profile 'Scandi' we see today. Thanks for opening up this discussion :)
I sharpen all my Mora's on sandpaper and keep them sharp by stropping. The sanding blocks with spring clips have the somewhat soft backing. Perfect for sharpening a scandi grind knife to convex it slightly..
No stones needed. And the scandivex is best.
A slight convex grind.
Makes the edge tougher, but still very sharp.
So then so you avoid at all cost using the sharpening stone integrated into the sheaf of the Mora bushcraft survivor knife?
Thanks so much for the clear explanation, but I have one question: what happena when you have to sharp a black scandi knive like Mora Black bushcraft? You should remove the black finish when you put bevel flat to sharp it. How can I preserve it? Thanks
Hey, As long as you stay flat on the scandi bevel, you should affect the black coating!
Kyle Noseworthy - Weiderfan are you guys talking about the same thing? Will it or will it not remove finish?
They come with a micro bevel. Just sharpen that if you want to preserve the coating. Kind of defeats the benefit of a scandi so I sharpened mine flat, which removed the coating and then re- added the micro bevel (its very much a micro bevel, tiny). I like the look of the shiny metal along with the black. You’ll need to keep it oiled though once you do that.
Really enjoyed this and love the new episode format! I think this will be a great series. I'm not so focused on sharpening techniques and I know others aren't as well so this will offer a really nice service for those of us that need to learn more about how to sharpen and maintain our edges! Good job! P.S. how's the leg?👍👍👍
Thanks PG! I'll continue with some of this stuff for sure! leg is doing well! Coming along!
Really glad to hear it bud!
Thank you so much for the info, really helps.
thx for sharing, what music at the end?
Good for some of us to know and good for others to have the reminder. Thanks!
a lot of times a reminder is all that's needed!
How long does it take to correct a Scandi?
I have a modified scandi grind? Tops bob knife from battle box
what stones would u think good-best for this? online ordering is really the only way for me to get things or walmart.. =/..
Woodstock 1000/6000 found on amazon. The perfect stone for the money.
Ure right....... I get a bit carried away with my Bark River stropping compound. works find for my convex grinds but perhaps not advisable for scandis.
Since I use a polishing stone anyway I guess the compound strop (12K) is pointless
I prefer a zero convex. But my scandis are always on ceramic stones. Great vid man.
Amazing! I was waiting someone do this video long time ago! No one know how much my scandi knives are suffering! Loll!
Thanks bro!
haha glad you enjoyed it my friend!
For my user scandi's I actually want that small secondary convex edge. They even call it a scandivex. So I strop them before even taking them out in the field.
A true scandi is way to weak for serious carving most of all some harder woods. The edge will roll on you.
I tested a true factory scandi knife in Colombia and the first piece of hardwood I tried to cut the edge had a visible roll.
So what you say is correct but who wants a true scandi knife for actual work in the field?
Sounds like the temper is too soft on those blades
@@declanthiele No. Just a full scandi makes the edge to weak. To thin no matter the temper or steel. It all depends on the angle of the scandi of course. After some stropping these blades can withstand batoning even. So if it's just cutting fruits and vegetables (soft materials) keep that super thin edge. If you also want to do some woodwork give it a strop depending on the angle of the scandi.
After seeing this video a mora would be considered a saber grind, but there advertised as scandi ???
How hard is it 2 understand how to sharpen these great Mora knifes
Wats wrong with a sabre grind, of it is produced on a guided system, like a Lansky?
Steve Brettell absolutely nothing. If it has the same edge angle as the scandi, in normal use it will maintain its edge for the same time duration, though due to less friction it will bite deeper with push cuts into wood, like a scandi-vex
i hear people using secondary grind/edge/bevel interchangeably with micro grind/edge/bevel, but here's how I like to make the distinction. On saber grinds, you can clearly see the "secondary" bevel, it's certainly nowhere near as long as the primary, but you can clearly see that edge. Whereas for scandi, I do sharpen (since it typically doesn't need reprofiling, on higher grit stones) them to scandi zero, but raise them ever so slightly for a micro edge on finer/finishing stone. These micro edges are visually not as prominent as the secondary edge on a saber grind. Of course another thing to point out is that the primary bevel on saber is a lot shallower than the angle of a scandi knife. Anyway, long story short, I like having micro bevels on scandi knives; I feel you get over 90% of the cutting performance (if not more) and a lot tougher edge. I also love sabers too though; one can never have too many knives (unless you ask my wife....)
I agree with you. I also microbevel my scans is because a true Scandinavian edge on my Finnish puukkos and I see the edge literally flexing while working on harder woods. I know that puukkos are meant to whittle softer woods though. But where I live we have harder woods as well.
A week Scandi edge is not practical for me.
Makes sense to me. I see many posts saying a secondary bevel prevents rolling of the edge. What say you?
It doesn’t prevent rolling but it does make the edge significantly tougher
Try a Smith Custom they WON'T roll
Yes it does. They should really be about 22° to 26° but few are from factory.
Good video with diagram. I would show a short example of the blade sharpened on a whetstone or diamond plate though to avoid the problem altogether.
But which edge holds up better - scandi or micro-bevel?
Micro bevel
most clear video ever. Ty
By the way,at 1:42, when you said “steepened angle” I you drew an unsteepend angle. Was that intentional?
Man I need to see this video. I literally am the guy you've described ruining the blade. Thanks for this
That was very informative. Thank you for the video.