Best way to ensure proper torque is to do a hot re-torque. However, best method in my opinion is three prestretch sequences. After you torque all studs to 150 ft lbs, go back to #1, loosen it, and re-torque to 150. Repeat this for all studs in sequence and do it a total of three times. It’s a lot of work, but ensures perfect torque. I believe ARP and/or Fleece recommends this method.
Sorry for jumping in this thread so late, but in case you didn't know, there is a place off of 66th and I35 called Accurate Labs. They calibrate all sorts of specialty tools and equipment there, and I'm positive they can calibrate a torque wrench too. I think another company bought them, so they may have changed names, but it's in the old Firestone building across from where ToysRUs used to be (if you're familiar with that area). I just stumbled across your channel a week or two ago, so I was looking over some of your older content as I am about to take a deep dive into my 4th Gen. Doing good man, keep it up!
Question I blew head gaskets in my ram 6,7 9 months ago after it was put back together it had few small bubbles in the radiator super small I had go back with head bolts not studs because parts store sent wrong part now the bubbles have gotten big again . I am not seeing it puke water back in resvor but it is towing at 206 an 210 instead of 203 an 199 also burning more fuel an loss power. I am wondering if this could be oil cooler cracked because it is putting little oil in radiator if I could re torque head bolts or replace them with studs an fix the problem. Which way would you go
Oh boy, yeah I had that same torque wrench from craftsman and yup it went right in the trash. Bunch of junk. This is why you should always recheck torque, I used a calibrated dci, which is made by snap on , flex head with electric tone it's a nice setup you should invest in a better torque wrench for sure, excellent content. Like I said my 625s were lose as well when I checked them. Funny thing is people always say you don't need to re torque 625s well if you don't do it I guess you'll never know , that's why people should not miss lead others like that.
I have the same second GEN swap kit two weeks after I installed I noticed I was getting bubbling in my radiator to, and my head was fire ringed 2 years ago. I found out my head was cracked had to buy a new head installing it now .
How old is your Saint Bernard? Because I have one aswell and literally all the markings are identical even where that white spot is on his back is identical be funny to find if they were siblings 😂 we got ours from a lady down south and had a huge littler and have to feed half of them herself because the mom could keep up on her own
I am celebrating our 50th anniversary of graduating from USAF pilot training with my classmates this coming April. Throughout my flying career I have used similar cockpit diagrams for lots of planes from the USAF jet trainers to the B-777. I have really enjoyed your channel. I have an 04.5 3500 with 66,000 on it. I pull a 15,000# FW and am going to do the head studs, springs and pushrods in anticipation of adding compounds this summer. Thanks for your videos covering these topics! Beautiful truck by the way!!!
I did mine with the Craftsmen as well, then went and bought an Icon from Harber Fright and took mine to 160ft/lbs.. I didn't trust the Craftsman wrench.
Interesting video, I was working on my LQ9 LS 6.0 with ARP head studs I made sure to buy a cheep and and master crafts expensive electric torque wrench and as expected the cheep one was wayyyy off then the master craft was 100% spot on I made sure to re calibrate the torque wrench 👍🏽
@@PoliticalGangster 🤔 I must of been high on brake clean writing that, but yeah a digital Mastercraft torque wrench went up to 80 FPT and had Newton meters, so it was great to use
I only use dial type torque wrench because it always goes back to zero if it doesn’t I know it’s broken my cornwell dealer has a calibration gauge I check it if I don’t think it’s right
Yeah, if the torque wrench ain't working right, then there are issues coming!!! Not sure though if that was part of your coolant issue though, no coolant in the oil or oil in the coolant.
How hard was it to get the freeze plug out? I may purchase a compound kit from ATS and might attempt to install the coolant bypass when the exhaust manifold, down pipe and turbo are out of the way.
You should always set those torque wrenches to zero when you’re done. Reason is there’s a spring in there and if you hold tension on it all the time throws the calibration off.
Soo, the head was lifting and you was pushing coolant out the radiator? Did just retorquing the studs reseal the gasket and fix the issue or did you have to tear it down and put a new head gasket on it??
Doing great videos. Heard of you on everything’s live with yourself and beast. Lol. I’ve been having coolant issues myself. Did you replace the head gasket or just retorque the head? I have 425’s but shouldn’t be having this issue. Thanks!
Thanks for coming on over man i appreciate it. I found a T fitting i had and just zip tied up was my source of leaking off the built up pressure. That let the fluid rise up to my overfill line and then down my frame. Since i removed the T fitting i haven’t had any issues since then.
@@okc_garage right on. I seen that as well. Was curious to see if that was why you retorqued the studs. I’m blowing coolant in my 13 and it’s only coming out of the reservoir. My radiator doesn’t have a cap. Pretty frustrating. I’ve been thinking it could be the studs and if so, my gasket would be damaged so not good to just retorque. Just me thinking though. I haven’t had the chance to wrench on it yet though. I have seen where the cover over the temp sensor warps and needs to be resurfaced. Anyhow, thanks for the help
4th_Gen_ Mahem i retorqued then just to make sure and I’m glad i did. My old torque wrench was a POS. It’s not a bad idea to check the torques later on down the road.
Rob Carrick i am not. I’m just running the house down to the ground from the valve cover. Have yet to have a drop out of it. If it starts to drip i will run a catch can on the frame rail.
I love the paper plates my brother! I will use your way of keeping the order. Big ups to you on your methods and thoroughness. I don’t get the privilege to have someone that would give reassurance that would make it in a timely manor to count on that will be coming with a tool i dont have. I don’t see how you could be digging in so far into the rabbit hole without the right tools get the right tools and take care of them like I know you take care of everything you guys so there should be no reason why you don’t have the torque wrench that works, you got it bro went down. Bring a new tool out. Snap-on truck has a torque wrench calibration checker tool. I just got to the part where you just showed off your Janky craftsman meaning just overly used aged for sure for a lengthy time. I’m not bagging on you, but I’m just joking with you and give you a hard time because you’re like a surgeon in the operation room using a smooth butter, knife to make an incision on The left ventricle of a patient. If you pay any high dollar on any tools, the precision instruments are the ones you get. I don’t got no time to be using something. I can’t tell if it works or not.
Vary good vid. Couple questions about your truck. How do you like the banks monster intake horn? No methanol injection?? Do you work the truck or just play with it?
I understand that I guess. When it comes to things like head studs I'll only use my Snap-On wrenches. I have a couple less expensive ones I'll use on lug nuts etc but head bolts and the such are getting the big boy tools.
Sure everyone is far beyond this now but I alway like to drop my poiinions cause these videos are goin to continue to watched for. A long while! So yeah you should always continue to keep you wrench in ASTM spec because every job that requires a torque spec should be correct! As far as for doing so to a 100$ craftsman that’s iffy at best just due to cost of re-cal to just buying a new one! But you can purchase a wrench that is worth the cost of a yearly or 2 times a year Re-cal and wi to that you also get a bit of assurance cause in this industry people trust tools from certain names and that help people feel safe so all personal preference! I’m goin thru a similar situation right now in my built 5.9l so I feel you! But this time I trusted someone else and his tools rather than my own and he has the expensive brand and I’m redoing with my Husky’s try hat I just replace every year and never had a problem! That’s for that vid
Precision Instruments split beam torque wrench is what you need. Especially when you are doing really important torque sequences like head studs. Get rid of the Craftsman. They aren't even an American made brand anymore. My Craftsman (exactly like your) went out and I went to a split beam (dial type) and will never go back to a spring clicker wrench again.
Just go buy a new every year! I trust my husky’s first about 8 months but you really only calibrate a 250$ and up wrench if that I’d say 300$ and up! Just my thoughts! Never broke a husky but broke every craftsman I’ve bought! Also you should really always brace the drive head to keep it straight to get correct torque! I’ve been rebuilding engines for only 15 or so years but got taught by some good old boys! But good video and hope all worked out fir you!
They always move on a retorque and especially on a hot re torque which you should have done. Cold retorques just don’t get the job done. And if you don’t measure yeild of bolt stretch and set your torque wrench to that number. Then what’s the point. You have no idea what the torque really is. I yield every bolt in a fixture I made measure stretch and then set my torque wrench.then I know exactly what And where I am at for torque refaurding bolt stretch and yield strength.
Best way to ensure proper torque is to do a hot re-torque. However, best method in my opinion is three prestretch sequences. After you torque all studs to 150 ft lbs, go back to #1, loosen it, and re-torque to 150. Repeat this for all studs in sequence and do it a total of three times. It’s a lot of work, but ensures perfect torque. I believe ARP and/or Fleece recommends this method.
Sorry for jumping in this thread so late, but in case you didn't know, there is a place off of 66th and I35 called Accurate Labs. They calibrate all sorts of specialty tools and equipment there, and I'm positive they can calibrate a torque wrench too. I think another company bought them, so they may have changed names, but it's in the old Firestone building across from where ToysRUs used to be (if you're familiar with that area). I just stumbled across your channel a week or two ago, so I was looking over some of your older content as I am about to take a deep dive into my 4th Gen. Doing good man, keep it up!
I appreciate it. I will look into it. You need help with the truck let me know.
Yes it's good to have your wrenches checked Cornwell has one and there must be other places to have them recalibrated
Question I blew head gaskets in my ram 6,7 9 months ago after it was put back together it had few small bubbles in the radiator super small I had go back with head bolts not studs because parts store sent wrong part now the bubbles have gotten big again . I am not seeing it puke water back in resvor but it is towing at 206 an 210 instead of 203 an 199 also burning more fuel an loss power. I am wondering if this could be oil cooler cracked because it is putting little oil in radiator if I could re torque head bolts or replace them with studs an fix the problem. Which way would you go
Yeah I hear ya on calibration, for aviation we have stickers of when and where it was calibrated and when it needs to get done again.
Oh boy, yeah I had that same torque wrench from craftsman and yup it went right in the trash. Bunch of junk. This is why you should always recheck torque, I used a calibrated dci, which is made by snap on , flex head with electric tone it's a nice setup you should invest in a better torque wrench for sure, excellent content. Like I said my 625s were lose as well when I checked them. Funny thing is people always say you don't need to re torque 625s well if you don't do it I guess you'll never know , that's why people should not miss lead others like that.
I have the same second GEN swap kit two weeks after I installed I noticed I was getting bubbling in my radiator to, and my head was fire ringed 2 years ago. I found out my head was cracked had to buy a new head installing it now .
Donnie C has it went away?
OKC_6.7 The new head is going back on this week.
Donnie C damn. So you did blow a gasket? Mine is good now. Or at least for the time being.
When I had the head fire ringed a couple years ago he gave me a lifetime warranty so this is costing me nothing but the price of the new head.
I went with the Hamilton head.
Re calibrate mine once a year. I own Snapon digital torque wrenches and they re do them
Joseph Livorsi I just mailed both my snap on torque wrenches back to Snap -on today . $235 total for both to recalibrate for some piece of mind.
How old is your Saint Bernard? Because I have one aswell and literally all the markings are identical even where that white spot is on his back is identical be funny to find if they were siblings 😂 we got ours from a lady down south and had a huge littler and have to feed half of them herself because the mom could keep up on her own
What aircraft cockpit diagrams are on the wall behind your workbench?
E-6b Mercury
I am celebrating our 50th anniversary of graduating from USAF pilot training with my classmates this coming April. Throughout my flying career I have used similar cockpit diagrams for lots of planes from the USAF jet trainers to the B-777. I have really enjoyed your channel. I have an 04.5 3500 with 66,000 on it. I pull a 15,000# FW and am going to do the head studs, springs and pushrods in anticipation of adding compounds this summer. Thanks for your videos covering these topics! Beautiful truck by the way!!!
I did mine with the Craftsmen as well, then went and bought an Icon from Harber Fright and took mine to 160ft/lbs.. I didn't trust the Craftsman wrench.
Interesting video, I was working on my LQ9 LS 6.0 with ARP head studs I made sure to buy a cheep and and master crafts expensive electric torque wrench and as expected the cheep one was wayyyy off then the master craft was 100% spot on I made sure to re calibrate the torque wrench 👍🏽
mastercraft canadian tire brand?
@@PoliticalGangster 🤔 I must of been high on brake clean writing that, but yeah a digital Mastercraft torque wrench went up to 80 FPT and had Newton meters, so it was great to use
Exactly the video I wanted to see.. layout little tips and tricks appreciate it
That TDC mark on the harmonic balancer should align with the mark on the timing cover no?
I don’t think there is a mark on it. At least there wasn’t on my truck. I just put it close to 12 o’clock position as possible.
I only use dial type torque wrench because it always goes back to zero if it doesn’t I know it’s broken my cornwell dealer has a calibration gauge I check it if I don’t think it’s right
I have a buddy that owns a snap on truck. I’ll be checking calibration again very soon.
Yeah, if the torque wrench ain't working right, then there are issues coming!!! Not sure though if that was part of your coolant issue though, no coolant in the oil or oil in the coolant.
Did you add the coolant bypass when you had the tranny out or did you do it with it in place?
I did it with the trans in. But i had the down pipe and turbo and exhaust manifold off when i installed it.
How hard was it to get the freeze plug out? I may purchase a compound kit from ATS and might attempt to install the coolant bypass when the exhaust manifold, down pipe and turbo are out of the way.
Thanks for another fantastic video. Head studs to me are a little intimidating
How's the head studs holding so far and have you had to retorque again after this
So the fix was a retorque?
I retorqued the head studs, and there was a t fitting that needed to be removed and just a straight barb connecting the 2 tubes.
@@okc_garage that trotting is on the exhaust/hot side above the headers? Wow well done
Tubing*
Nice work on the videos bud!!
andy sapp thanks bro.
You should always set those torque wrenches to zero when you’re done. Reason is there’s a spring in there and if you hold tension on it all the time throws the calibration off.
My torque wrench says to store at 10 ftlbs right on handle. Tekton
@@fozzybear9114 Probably should’ve been more clear to set it at the lowest denominator mine just happens to say zero.
@@georgemcconnell1433 yup. My tektons used to say zero. But this new one says store at 10. Not sure why the change?
Soo, the head was lifting and you was pushing coolant out the radiator? Did just retorquing the studs reseal the gasket and fix the issue or did you have to tear it down and put a new head gasket on it??
i had a plastic fitting that was leaking out pressure that was the fix. im glad it was that and not my headgasket
Adjust them valves to .008 intake and .018 exhaust. Will boost faster and better throttle response
Hed Tight How many NM
150 Ft LBS.
Doing great videos. Heard of you on everything’s live with yourself and beast. Lol. I’ve been having coolant issues myself. Did you replace the head gasket or just retorque the head? I have 425’s but shouldn’t be having this issue. Thanks!
Thanks for coming on over man i appreciate it. I found a T fitting i had and just zip tied up was my source of leaking off the built up pressure. That let the fluid rise up to my overfill line and then down my frame. Since i removed the T fitting i haven’t had any issues since then.
@@okc_garage right on. I seen that as well. Was curious to see if that was why you retorqued the studs. I’m blowing coolant in my 13 and it’s only coming out of the reservoir. My radiator doesn’t have a cap. Pretty frustrating. I’ve been thinking it could be the studs and if so, my gasket would be damaged so not good to just retorque. Just me thinking though. I haven’t had the chance to wrench on it yet though. I have seen where the cover over the temp sensor warps and needs to be resurfaced. Anyhow, thanks for the help
4th_Gen_ Mahem i retorqued then just to make sure and I’m glad i did. My old torque wrench was a POS. It’s not a bad idea to check the torques later on down the road.
@@okc_garage I’ve been dreading doing it ever since swapping to studs. I think I’ve waited long enough though😊
You running a catch can? Where did you mount it?
Rob Carrick i am not. I’m just running the house down to the ground from the valve cover. Have yet to have a drop out of it. If it starts to drip i will run a catch can on the frame rail.
I love the paper plates my brother! I will use your way of keeping the order. Big ups to you on your methods and thoroughness. I don’t get the privilege to have someone that would give reassurance that would make it in a timely manor to count on that will be coming with a tool i dont have. I don’t see how you could be digging in so far into the rabbit hole without the right tools get the right tools and take care of them like I know you take care of everything you guys so there should be no reason why you don’t have the torque wrench that works, you got it bro went down. Bring a new tool out. Snap-on truck has a torque wrench calibration checker tool. I just got to the part where you just showed off your Janky craftsman meaning just overly used aged for sure for a lengthy time. I’m not bagging on you, but I’m just joking with you and give you a hard time because you’re like a surgeon in the operation room using a smooth butter, knife to make an incision on The left ventricle of a patient. If you pay any high dollar on any tools, the precision instruments are the ones you get. I don’t got no time to be using something. I can’t tell if it works or not.
You need to put a torque wrench on it that goes up to 250 foot pounds to get an accurate reading of 150 foot pounds.
Vary good vid. Couple questions about your truck. How do you like the banks monster intake horn? No methanol injection?? Do you work the truck or just play with it?
Love the banks monster Ram intake. I did it the same time of the second gen swap. She’s all play and my daily driver. Not much towing.
It's definitely a workout. It was definitely off if you are getting full turn.
I get mine checked annually at a min. Also, why the hell would you use a Craftsman or Harbor freight torque wrench?
I mean really.
It’s all i had at the moment. What brand would you recommend Dan?
I understand that I guess.
When it comes to things like head studs I'll only use my Snap-On wrenches. I have a couple less expensive ones I'll use on lug nuts etc but head bolts and the such are getting the big boy tools.
Sure everyone is far beyond this now but I alway like to drop my poiinions cause these videos are goin to continue to watched for. A long while! So yeah you should always continue to keep you wrench in ASTM spec because every job that requires a torque spec should be correct! As far as for doing so to a 100$ craftsman that’s iffy at best just due to cost of re-cal to just buying a new one! But you can purchase a wrench that is worth the cost of a yearly or 2 times a year Re-cal and wi to that you also get a bit of assurance cause in this industry people trust tools from certain names and that help people feel safe so all personal preference! I’m goin thru a similar situation right now in my built 5.9l so I feel you! But this time I trusted someone else and his tools rather than my own and he has the expensive brand and I’m redoing with my Husky’s try hat I just replace every year and never had a problem! That’s for that vid
Fyi. The dot on bridge goes towards exhaust side. That's what the manual says. But the dot is non functional.
Mike Farrell it must have been opposite from the factory then cause that’s the way they were when i opened the top of the motor for the first time.
@@okc_garage interesting
Mine were all toward the intake side as well.
When you lashed your valves the second time, though you only go 180 instead 360
Hot retorque and retorque at 200 or 2k miles for IFG.
Precision Instruments split beam torque wrench is what you need. Especially when you are doing really important torque sequences like head studs. Get rid of the Craftsman. They aren't even an American made brand anymore. My Craftsman (exactly like your) went out and I went to a split beam (dial type) and will never go back to a spring clicker wrench again.
Just go buy a new every year! I trust my husky’s first about 8 months but you really only calibrate a 250$ and up wrench if that I’d say 300$ and up! Just my thoughts! Never broke a husky but broke every craftsman I’ve bought! Also you should really always brace the drive head to keep it straight to get correct torque! I’ve been rebuilding engines for only 15 or so years but got taught by some good old boys! But good video and hope all worked out fir you!
Cdi makes decent tourque wrench
They always move on a retorque and especially on a hot re torque which you should have done. Cold retorques just don’t get the job done. And if you don’t measure yeild of bolt stretch and set your torque wrench to that number. Then what’s the point. You have no idea what the torque really is. I yield every bolt in a fixture I made measure stretch and then set my torque wrench.then I know exactly what And where I am at for torque refaurding bolt stretch and yield strength.
From what I’ve been told ARP 625s don’t stretch they break. I could be wrong. Lesson learned though. Will always do a hot retorque going forward.
3 clicks every nut
never supposed to max out a torque wrench.
8 inch pounds injector solenoids
All the money for parts that you have spent and use a cheap torque wrench come on man
IKR
Unbelievable so many high dollar parts. And use the cheapest tools. Ugh
Do my tools need to be snap on? I’m not sure what your getting at?
Not at all. Definitely a up to date tested torque wrench
I still love your work .