Cummins 6.7L Turbo Actuator Replacement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2024
- Here are the links for buying the turbo actuators based on your year truck from Genos's Garage :
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Motorcity Mechanic
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(#442) (turbo) (actuator) (ram) (diesel)
I really like the way David goes step by step --- even dummy's can understand it
Thanks for the kind words!
You’re right , I had no issue understanding ...
Instablaster
Dave thanks so much for this tutorial!!!!! You're absolutely an organized top shelf mechanic. You instill confidence.
Just want to say I am a diesel mechanic and I’ve also been an instructor for Caterpillar and Volvo Trucks. This video and your knowledge is by far superior to any technical videos I’ve ever seen on TH-cam. Fantastic job! We’ll done! Thank you!
Wow…..I’m speechless and feel not worthy. Thank you for the kind words and coming from someone with your credentials….it means a lot.
Have you ever heard an actuator make noise on deceleration? Somewhat like a rattle?
@@MotorCityMechanic Be proud, sir. It makes me proud that you are so professional and explains it so well. I’ve been it diesel for almost 34 years now. Been a great ride! Thanks again
Donated to your channel! Thanks!
@@MotorCityMechanicYes this was a great video. You did very well.
Great info.....struggling to just replace the actuator or the entire turbo with actuator......disturbed that 2015 has recalls on the actuator and 206 has not. Thanks for a very simple video and explanation. Talked with City Diesel just before watching this video!
I have a 2014, i removed the shock and drilled a hole in the side of that shock mount and gave myself easy access to that bolt.
Just wanted so thanks an show my gratitude. Watched the video, ordered the complete actuator kit, and just got it installed. Great video!!!
Thanks Shaun! Glad you enjoyed and thanks for using Geno's. Make sure to subscribe
Thanks man. Great step by step instructions !
I got quoted almost $4000.00 to remove, replace, and calibrate the turbo actuator on my 2016. This will save me $3K
What issues or symptoms were you having? My codes are different, and my exhaust brake works intermittently. The codes I have are none of the 4 he mentioned in this video.
Thank you SO MUCH!! Your videos are literally saving me thousands of dollars. I can’t thank you enough. I bought a used 2014 3500 Ram and need to replace the actuator, nox sensor, clean the EGR, and you hit on all those repairs. I can’t believe it. I guess this is very common among these trucks. My local diesel mechanic wanted to charge me 8500 to replace the whole DEF system and replace the whole turbo. I’m so glad I waited and did my own research and finally came across your channel. I do have one question for you. I’m looking for an affordable OBD scanner that can do a forced REGEN and also clear the limp mode for the DEF, do you have any suggestions?
David, you are a great teacher as well a super mechanic. Your videos have helped me countless times! Thank you!!
Thank you Dave. You are helping so many people
My 2016 has just run into this same issue and hopefully not the added turbo failure. We will only know once we are in.
Dude, great video. My 2015 Ram 2500 6.7 just had the actuator crap out. About to install it tomorrow and going through any and all videos for tips and things to watch out for when I do it. Yours was by far the best one I have seen. You hit every technical question I had and really broke this down completely. Great job my man!
Awesome tutorial! Best automotive details and follow through from start to finish. Now I feel like I can tackle this. Thanks!
Thanks David! I really enjoy making videos like this
Fantastic video great instructions 👍🏽😎
Thanks Albert!
This video literally saved me thousands...........
Had a customer in the ship with a turbo estimate of $7000....it just needs the actuator. Have to wait a few weeks due to actuator being on backorder. A few weeks waiting is worth saving $5000-$6000.
I got quoted 3500$ from my local mechainic for a “failed turbo” I pulled the turbo, cleaned the vanes. (Which moved freely before I did) and got on the wait list for the city diesel actuator. It arrived, I bolted it on. And the truck runs beautifully ! Thanks for the great advice keep up the great videos
Thank you so much, very helpful!!!!
Always happy to help
Thank you for this video. It made my actuator replacement very simple.
Excellent video! Thank you very much. I really like how u showed us the difference on the other truck too.
Thanks for the information. I am having a engine brake problem with my 2016 dodge 6.7 Cummins. The engine light is on and I am not able to get full breaking. However if I remove the plug for the diagnostic port and then replace it I will get full breaking. The engine light is on but it still works. My turbo is still giving me lots of boost. I have at least an idea as to what may be wrong. Thanks.
Great video, very comprehensive. 👍
Many thanks for the feedback. Make sure to subscribe
My truck is throwing a p226c code would it be an actuator problem or lean more towards a turbo problem? I have good boost but exhaust brake doesn't hit as hard as it used to. It's a 2013 and the turbo was replaced at a around 105000 miles. The video was great made changing the actuator look pretty easy just don't know if that is my problem.
Great video Dave.
Great video. Very detailed and lots of great info.
Thanks Dave this video helped out a lot. I have a 2014 2500. Took the actuator off to see if my vanes where free or stuck. So they move freely. Gonna order the Genos Garage actuator and save $. The local dealership wanted to charge $4,600 just for the stock holset actuator and $1000 in labor for a total $5600. They where not happy when I showed up asking for my truck back lol. Told his tech I’ll be doing this job my self lol. In the presses I changed my bottom radiator y pipe to the XDP billet one since I was already down there.
Great info thanks!
Thanks Jamie, glad you enjoyed
DEAR SIR,
THANKS,
You are awesome 👏🏻 thank you!
You are welcome! Make sure to subscribe!
Excellent 👌
With group B trucks, it appears that the entire assembly is removed and can be discarded, as the kit comes with both halves and bolts onto the turbo with new bolts. Is that assumption correct?
Forgive if you already stated in this video but why don't you have to calibrate the actuator but the dealership says you do?
you had to program the actuator with a scanner???
Hey great videos David! Found a shop that doesn't just want to replace the entire turbo and did a proper diagnosis. They said actuator and since their supplier dried up they were okay to try the Genos one. Long story short they installed it and it worked great, exhaust brake is back and power, but with foot on brake and in gear (stopped), idle has a steady lope to it until I put in neutral, park, or accelerate. Shop is not sure why. This did not happen before. Any suggestions to check? Also now have P2048 so will check injector first. Hoping these are unrelated.
Mine is showing P003A, P2262 and P226C on a 2015 does this indicate an actuator or a bad turbo?
I have a 2011 4500 the EB works in the morning but as the truck heats up.it stops working? Could that be the actuator? Truck does have a permanent P0471 code; The tube and manifold for the sensor are clear.
I get the security bits but it’s not like there special or hard to get. You don’t even have to be security or anything. There more of an annoyance
I fully agree. I see no need for them other then to sell more tools you need.
My truck has thrown P226C you did not mention those codes so now what ?
You sir have the best ram / 6-7 videos. Thank you
It’s what people ask about the most! Glad I could add another to the inventory
Thanks Dave. When we talked a couple months ago you said you wanted to do this video. This helps immensely. For those of you who may be new to Daves videos...when he says he gets emails on repair questions he doesnt just read your emails. He answers them. There has never been a time that I have emailed Dave that I didnt get an answer. He is the real deal folks. He really loves what he does. Also..Genos Garage...if you own a MOPAR they are the place to go. Great prices and fast delivery!
I wish I could say I answer them all these days. I get about 100 emails/comments daily and a lot get missed due to family time and with getting the business going. I try to answer as many as I can but it’s become too many lately. Thanks for the kind words....much appreciated
I can attest to what dusm0518 has said. Dave helped me out through email when I upgraded to tow mirrors on my 16’ 2500. Needed the codes to put in to make the turn signals and stuff work and he came through. Before I emailed him I had taken the truck to a dealership to have them do it, they messed with the truck for 2 hrs and said they couldn’t get it to work and charged me $50.00. After getting the codes from Dave I went to a different dealer and gave them the codes and they had it done in about 20 minutes. Thanks again Dave!
@@MotorCityMechanic You can only do so much Dave. Stay strong bro, Jim
@@MotorCityMechanic z f f
By far, the best video on TH-cam regarding the 6.7 turbo actuator replacement.
Many thanks! That says a lot and I greatly appreciate it
For real though! It’s so thorough and he really hammers home the “do NOT get coolant on the circuit board!” Seriously though this is going to save me nearly $2000 just in parts. Now i can save on labor too! Such an easy replacement install! Greatly appreciate this video man!
@@duece3000gt24 he just saved me a ton. The OEM is on back order and is 1750. Just ordered mine and gonna put it on at my shop.
That actuator dropped the sickest beat
I never realized it until you and someone else mentioned it....played it back and that is one mean beat for sure lol
Great! No extra talk talk, just the facts, what you need to understand the procedure and options to get it done right.
Thanks John. The feedback is much appreciated
This is by far the best instructional content/ format not just on TH-cam, but that I have ever been witness to.
You are easy to listen to, the volume is perfect, there's no obnoxious intro, no unnecessary information, ALL of the pertinent information was included (down to the smallest yet still very relevant details). The use of visual aids as reference to how the turbo vanes and actuator operate was invaluable. Your reference for the purchase of aftermarket parts was very helpful. You are the metric against which all other channels should be measured. Thank you for being so awesome and keep up the great work.
Agree 110%. David you are the best!
💯
Agree with EVERYTHING said here. What an awesome video.
It just doesn’t get better than this! Very nice video, plain and simple instruction with very good explanation of the fine points. Great job, I am a fan!
AMAZING tutorial Sir! My 2016 is showing these codes and I need to do this. You're very detailed and I'm sure we all appreciate your dedication to helping us. Great job!
Great video David! Hopefully I don't need an actuator any time soon on mine. But if I do, I'll be going to good ole Geno's.
They are the best place to go to get it for sure. One of the best companies I have ever worked with.
Dave, amazing video. I just completed this repair with the actuator from Genos Garage on my 2014 Ram. Works flawlessly and was not too bad to install. I had 4 of those codes you showed and was terrified I was going to have to spend 3000 or more to get it and the turbo changed. Got some notes and advice for anyone following this: I think the hardest part about this is putting the fender liner back in, lol. 1. Do NOT open your actuator box yet! If you break that security sticker, you cannot return it. 2. Follow Daves instructions to the T. This works. 3. Give yourself at least a day to get that wheel off, liner out, then use PB blaster, or Aerokroil or some penetrating fluid. Spray those 4 screws and tap them with a small hammer or hold a short screw driver against them then tap that. I did that about 5 times or more throughout the day before. did it again on the day I changed it. You don't want to take a chance on stripping out the allen screw head. 4. Here is why you DID NOT open that new actuator box. Remove the actuator carefully, and WHILE It is still PLUGGED IN, you should be able to turn your truck to "ON" but do not start! I would think if the actuator is good, it will move its gear full range back and forth. I am not sure on that as I just unplugged it and put the other in (someone can chime in and correct if need be). If it moves, you may have to rethink replacement and ask for advice. If you unplug it, find it good, now you have a 1000.00 paper weight if that original actuator was good. You'll have to have that one calibrated to use again. Or just use the new one anyway and keep the good yet old one as a standby. 5. The instructions with your new actuator are very clear, very easy. If that turbo gear moves easily from line to line, you can replace the actuator. The position of that turbo gear doesn't matter when you mount it. I just left it up against one of the lines and put the new one on. (you'll understand when you see the turbo gear that Dave has you check for movement). 6. Hard to get a torque wrench in there for the 25 inch pounds, I just snugged the new screws in there firm. I did take that 5mm allen bit, wrapped a bit of metal duct tape around it to get some girth to it and used the 5/16 inch ratchet wrench I did have after I got it started. The other 3 are easy money. I am no kind of mechanic, trust me, but as far as changing components out, this is pretty slick. As an aside, I went ahead and changed out the lower Y-pipe connection while I had the tire and liner out. Its the same Y-pipe you can see when you open the hood of your truck and you are looking down on the radiator in front. Ram put in poly or nylon Y-pipes and the upper failed on me a couple of years ago. I bought two of the billet aluminum ones and changed the top one. Did the bottom one on this job. THAT was a pain the ass, but doable.
Actuator is easy with this component from Geno's. Dave here is amazing. Just follow his instruction and the one you get with the actuator. 4 or hours or so you will be on the road. I did not even have to clear codes, they just cleared, even one for a downstream Nox sensor. Have a ball gents. Sorry for the windy review.
So I hope I'm not being redundant, but you don't have to recalibrate the new 1?
@GG-bl2vm it self calibrates at each key cycle so nothing needs to be done other installing.
Have you seen problems with the actuators on truck with low miles, ie low mileage for a diesel? Say less than 75,000 miles
Mine went on my 2015 with 42k miles!
I’ve got a ‘14 with 85k and just popped the code for it last month.
@@ttengineer404 my 2014 went out at 57000. Talking to others and this seems like a problem.
Seems more on the 2013 and newer. My 2007 went 250,000 before the codes popped up
My 2015 2500 has 540K on the original actuator! Still has all emissions on it too!
If you don’t have a security torx, use a chisel and a hammer, and break the center nub off.
Solves 2 problems
I like that option! Lol. Have to try it one day and see how well I can do it
MotorCity Mechanic
Yep done it on a few of them before I bought a set. Easy on the E15 on electronics, even a screw driver breaks em off
Test 1 has a catchy rhythm. 😂
Once I played it back I was like....how the heck did I not notice that! Coming to a rap song near you!
I was thinking the same thing. It’s almost like that boots and pants commercial.
@@MotorCityMechanic check your instagram messages, I sent you a couple of messages. Please
Thank you David for this extremely informative video. Stay safe👍
Your welcome Daniel! Stay safe as well man!
This video saved me $5500. I had $180 dealer inspection (basically a code reader and car wash) tell me that my turbo needed replacing for $6500. I saw this video and bought this part from Genos garage for a 2015 ram 2500 with 180k. The part wasn't in stock but I recieved it in about 6wks or less. I spent 2 hours with the easy install and the check engine light shut off immediately, turbo works better than before. I actually got 29psi on my guage, I don't remember seeing it higher than 25 before. Throttle response is noticeably snappier, no problems after 1k miles, fantastic video and product, thanks Dave!
Awesome, glad it saved you that much. Today being what it is….everything seems to be weeks and months out due to avail. A reman engine in waiting on is 6-10 weeks! Still have another 4-5 to wait
How difficult was the install on the 2015. I just threw these codes today.
Man that was a great video!! The camera work and editing were flawless! I think I wanna buy a Dodge with a bad actuator just to go thru the procedures. Kidding
I’m sure there are some out there for sale lol. Thanks Bill for watching and for the comment. Saw your email and your donation...many thanks for that. Have to check out that email and get back to you
Pretty sure you helped me with an actuator issue in the past! This is a good option since my local dealer will no sell the actuator separate. Also, Love the how shop is looking man!! Keep it up!
Yeah looks like it’s time to buy your parts elsewhere. Much appreciated Kurt!
EXCELLENT!!! great info, man I wish I lived somewhat close, you would definitely be my go to guy!
Appreciate that vote of confidence Brian!
No doubt!
What kinda power tool you used to break those tire lugs?
That was a Milwaukee Tools mid torque impact. Awesome tool!
Hands down the best instructional video I have watched, and I have watched many. I have to perform this exact job on my ‘15 Ram 2500 this week. This video has assured me that I can handle this on my own and save some money. You have a new subscriber! Thank you!
Did this work for you? I have a 2017 that needs one.
@@fireball7671 yes it did. I replaced the actuator and so far haven’t had any issues.
@@SouthernGuy27 Thanks for the reply! Diesel shop wants to charge me 6,000 bucks for a turbo I think it's just the actuator. Unfortunately these are on backorder for a while.
@@fireball7671 I ordered mine from eBay. You can get a refurb for a fraction of the cost.
@@SouthernGuy27 was it the one you have to calibrate or the one like in the video that you don't have to calibrate?
Ah the Delphi version verse the CTS version.
The usually problem with the earlier Delphi version is the turbo ring / shaft slow to move or seized and the torque of the motor attempting to overcome it. Overtime it overheats and screws up the over voltage capacitors on the board.
Thanks for that added info David!
Was driving my 2012 to work today. in some point my turbo start making louder noise. Something like cold start on high idle with engine brake on. How do I know that is actuator only? I also don't have any check engine lights....
Just did my 2016 today! The information in this video was invaluable. Everything you absolutely need to know with No fluff. Excellent job sir!
You helped me fall in love with my truck again.
Awesome! They all break, knowing how to fix them yourself makes the difference in my opinion
Like a numb nut, I parked in my driveway, head in, with the nose considerably higher than the ass end. I had to break out a siphon pump to clear the coolant line because if the angle. Otherwise, easy peasy Japanesey and I have a new 10” long 1/4” ratchet wrench. I bet I don’t use it til this actuator takes a crap.
Thanks again.
Installed and got an active code that won’t clear. Install the old one and the code will clear. Sent back to city diesel they insist the problem is not on their end, vein moves freely and is not sticking and there are no shorts in the harness. Any ideas?
I got the code u010c two weeks ago .. the truck was fine until two days ago , when it started to lose power .. take off the actuator by myself , I did all the tests , the turbo seems good , wiring too .
, the actuator receive power but doe not spin , I went to autoparts but it's around 1k , online it's about $600 ..
I WILL ORDER IT , and I'll let you know the news...
Editing this .. I changed the actuator , but still have the code and boost lose power ,.. I test it to know if something was wrong with it , but not ..
Looking on TH-cam some stuff, I notice that actually the actuator was good but wasn't programed by the model of truck , so the PCM didn't recognize it .. I took out it again and I went to a shop that downloaded the information and programing the acuatuator , put back it again . and it works ..
Everybody has different experiences
These idiot engineers need to come to my house and do this job for me for free, can’t remove the bottom 5mm bolts, trucks a 2015 and those are all rusty, had plenty of strength to turn loose and just rounded them bolts out. Not sure why they can’t use normal headed bolts or custom make much deeper Allen head bolts. Like make that head a good 1/4” deep. We’ll time to put all my coolant back in, head to another shop to weld on my 5mm allen bits and hope for the best on cranking those off.
As always, thanks for the awsome info. Clear and concise.
Do you have a video on resetting the "low coolant" error message? I had a engine cooling clutch fan replaced and now the low coolant message won't go away. Thanks. BTW how do I email you?
There is no way to reset it other then adding the correct amount of coolant to the bottle. Typically if that doesn’t help then the sensor inside the bottle is bad and replacing the bottle may be needed
WHY are the majority of the videos on older trucks? when are you going to start getting some 4/4.5 gen stuff going?? 🤠
At the dealership they hired a couple guys that took over the diesels and I stayed with transmissions and everything else. So I didn’t have any “subject matters” to film at that point.
I know what I will be doing soon... just got the P003a code
Great video! Very knowledgeable and well thought out approach to your content.
Many thanks! I appreciate any and all feedback!
This is my first time watching one of your videos. This is the best instruction I have ever seen. Thank you for your help
Many thanks man. This was one of my favorite videos for sure
Fantastic video. Very professionally done. I have my truck in the shop right now for throwing U010C code along with MAF and EGR. I took the shop the service manual diagnostic procedure since they were apparently just winging it with troubleshooting it. Got them to check the smart power relay. Anyway, they finally said that the codes are being thrown because the actuator is too slow to make it’s sweep during its self-check upon startup. They are wanting to replace the entire turbo which is working just fine. BUT thanks to your video, I know that I can just replace the actuator. Thank you. Thank you!
Dave, this video educated me enough to make mince meat of my service advisor's BS.
Lisa
I always recommend people do their own research and not just take the word of someone who actually doesn’t work on cars (service writers). Glad you knew better and did your homework.
Great video Dave. Something to mention, Just recently, I received notification from FCA that they are now extending the warranty on the factory installed actuators to 15 years or 150,000 miles, I guess because of all the problems I was just getting ready to order the aftermarket one and install it myself, thanks to the precise video you did, but if they are going to cover cost and labor, then I'll let them handle it. Just figured I'd share in case you want to inform people of the change, as a lot of people are having issues with these, and this video is the best place to go.
what's FCA? i have a 2017 ram and i have these same codes....my ram only has 93,000 miles
...great video by the way
Man , you have no idea how much we appreciate your knowledge and your videos.
Thank u so much
Super useful for those like me that are not able to go to the dealer ship.
Then you don't need to replace the entire actuator.
Do you only replace the top part and if it doesn't need to be calibrated?
Depends on the year. There are 2 parts numbers based on year. One part is the electronics and the other is the gear section. No matter what year you will need the electronic section and it self calibrates
Perfect explanation, really helpful, only think I missed is what is the correct linkage position when you put the whole assembly back, is it to the right, left or doesn't matter?
Thanks in advance.
When using the replacement in the video….position doesn’t matter.
Hello MCM, I am the original owner of a 2018 with only 29,850 miles on it, and I'm getting the three codes U010C,P00AF, and P003A at such low miles is it possible that the actuator went out already or can it just be the connector? May be a dumb question but it's my first diesel vehicle I don't know much about this stuff.
Like all the details helps a lot a a diyer. Takes away the fear of the unknown and guessing
Glad you enjoyed and I appreciate the feedback!
Wish I would have known about this 2 years ago. It’s would have saved me a lot of money.
Great video! Just one Q, when reinstalling actuator where does the turbo lever need set? All the closed I assume? Thanks! Keep up the good videos!
Position doesn’t matter, it will self calibrate once the key is turned on. Thanks for asking and for watching
Where did you buy your actuator at? Thanks
Hey bud I have been watching your videos like crazy since I just bought a 2015 Cummins. I know I'm late to this party but I am getting code P226C - turbo slow to respond. I am thinking this is an actuator issue. I have cleaned the EGR temp sensor and the MAP sensor but no luck. I can not find info on that code specifically showing a failure point, it is always connected to another code that I am not seeing. Any advice you are willing to give is greatly appreciated.
Here is something you can check into with your local dealer to see if it applies. They only did this for the 2015 models and you might be in luck
static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2022/MC-10229092-9999.pdf
@@MotorCityMechanic thank you very much sir I will check this out.
Excellent video, David! By chance do you have a reliable source for OEM actuators? I wanted to get one from Geno's, but they are backordered for 6 weeks. I'm working on my sister in law's 2016 2500 - shes an equine vet and uses her truck for emergencies for clients up in the mountains, so she needs the problem fixed asap. I've found a couple places online but I'm leery of the ultra low prices...
Do you have an alternator video for 2015 3500 6.7 ?
Not at this time but I will keep it in mind as a future video.
I've been researching replacing the turbo actuator on my 15 cummins. This video sets the bar pretty high. Lighting sound and explanation all on point. One of few videos Ive watched from beginning to end. Thanks for putting the time in. Gotta wait for the actuator to arrive now.
I have used your videos to fix my door harness change my fluids and all filters oil and fuel and ccv filter flush my radiator and replace with proper fluid clean my egr can and valve change my axle fluid and trans filters ... and i looked down and i wasnt signed up to your channel shame on me ....i am now and i have saved thousands useing your channel thanks you have kept my truck running smooth
I am always glad to hear how these videos help both with time and money. Thanks for the feedback
How long does it usually take to change? Thank you
Feels like 1-2 hours tops
Thank you for all the informative videos you post. They are very helpfull. I was wondering if you ever came across a p0299 code. I installed an aftermarket dry filter s&b intake on my 2014 ram 2500. I cant seem to figure out what is causing it. My mechanic says everything checks out good. The code only happens when the rpm is under 1500. I did the battery disconnect like the instructions for the air intake said to do. When the cel comes on the truck seems to operate the same. Ive checked for broken wires. Bad connectors. Still cant seem to find anything. If you have any input i would appreciate it.
This video is as thorough as you are going to need. I had to do this actuator replacement 2 1/2 years ago. I was able to get a New Old Stock original 2007.5 style actuator. Then I had to find a way to calibrate. I purchased a Turbo Control system from Steed Dolan (his channel is here on You Tube) I did all the work without removing the fender liner. This would have been a whole lot easier and less risky than having to do the initial before install calibration and then an after install calibration with power being applied to the actuator for the whole time. There was some serious pucker factor in that sequence. I had tried to find anyone who could do the calibration. It turns out that Dodge had removed that routine from the dealer computers. They could only do full turbo replacement. A quote from a local mechanic was 2000 dollars to install an actuator that I provided. I did a whole lot of You Tube university study to get 100 percent ready to replace the actuator. The OEM Dodge is an assembly of the electronics and the gear housing to only the four bolts needed to be removed and replaced. The total cost for me was $1300 with the purchase of the actuator. I do have a stand alone turbo controller with which I could do a whole lot of control not available in the OEM system.
So this makes me wonder about my truck. In the morning when I first start truck it acts as if the engine break is kicking on and off. Im limited to 1500 RPM. Sometimes if I start it and shut it off and restart it will run fine. Other times I have to leave it running for awhile and then it runs completely fine and have 0 issues the rest of the day. I did have the code (U010c) which comes up turbo actuator. So should I replace it? I bought the truck used about a month ago and have been having problems after I started using the engine break. It is a 2014. Otherwise could low voltage from weak batteries cause it in the morning?
David has saved me thousands of dollars. His videos are very detailed and the instructions are so simple to understand. We own a ram 3500 with a 6.7 200,000 miles.
This is an awesome video! Thanks Dave! I would have never attempted this job without seeing this video. It was a success, The truck runs great now.
One tip I will share. The lower left bolt, that is blocked by the shock tower, is easier to remove by removing the shock and drilling a 1/2 inch hole through the shock tower revealing the head of the bolt for easy removal. The lower bolts on mine were badly rusted by the leaking coolant. It took some heat and revealing the head of the bolt to remove it.
So when I separated the two halfs of the actuator my circuit board area was full of oil . What would cause this? I ordered Geno's actuator but I don't dare bolt it on at this point. Help please
Fantastic info! I hope it doesn't come down to me needing to do this, since I had the trifecta of P00AF, P003A and U010C codes trigger last night. Went ahead and cleared them (for now). I'm hoping they'll stay away and that it was just some weird electrical hiccup. Once I cleared it, the truck built boost fine and exhaust brake was working properly again. I was experimenting with SOTF position 3 for a few days prior (never romped on it, just regular driving), so I'm hoping it was just something related to that. Ended up just putting it back to the standard position 1 afterwards and just intend to keep it there. I just want my truck as reliable as possible, so no need to turn it up to hoon. I really hope it doesn't come to this, but I really appreciate your thorough instructions and giving me the confidence that I could do this job myself, if needed. If it ends up being something more significant though like the turbo, I guess the truck will just have to sit for a while until I sell a kidney or something 🤣
What causes a turbo actuator failure? My truck had one fail at just 60,000 miles. Sad.
I was hoping one of the 4 codes was the ones I have. I have two codes: P226C and P2262. Exhaust brake stops working intermittently. I clear the codes with the minimax and it will work fine for a while and then do it again. Any advice?
Could you do a video on how the City Diesel Actuator recalibrates itself? There are other Sellers out there trying to call BS. They're claiming if it's not calibrated by the Calibration Procedure that it isn't fully functioning (make full arm swings).
Whats the site for the. Turbo actuator need to by asap
Genosgarage.com
No question is a stupid question! well maybe this one. I have a 2014 will the kit come pre-assembled. Shows two pieces but I am thinking it could and will be assembled together eventually anyway. Second ? there are repair service where you send it in, its rebuild and returned for like $400.. any comments on that or warnings thank you so much!!
I just replaced the actuator on my 2016 2500. Altogether it was a 3 hour job. I consider myself a moderate backyard mechanic and this was a relatively easy job as long as you prepare yourself and pay attention to the tools you will need as stated in this video. Great tip on the ratcheting box end wrench. The only unexpected obstacle was on my Ram, I had to remove the front grill to access the radiator drain plug. I can’t thank you enough for saving me thousands of dollars. Got quick and speedy delivery of the actuator from Geno’s Garage. 👍🏻
You are the best. 2015 Ram actuator went out at 48,000 miles. Luckily I purchased the Mopar extended warranty. Hundred dollar deductible to me, but real cost was over three thousand dollars. Now I know I have a do it myself option when it happens after warranty is up. Thanks, much appreciated. Good luck with your business.
I'm getting the U010C code, exhaust brake isn't working properly and boost seems low. Truck has 187000 miles should I replace the turbo as well as the actuator?
Is there an Ohm check that can be done or other procedure to rule out the CITY DIESEL Turbo actuator?By testing through connector pigtail? I prefer not to remove the actuator if it is working properly. no other codes associated with it are pending or active.
2014 Dodge RAM 6.7 CUMMINS Upgraded with CITY DIESEL Turbo actuator : CM-ACTKIT2013. The Actuator appears to be working but I am getting constant underboost code P0299 under very little to no loads.
I have ruled out:Sensors (2897332, 2897333, and 4984760) have been replaced by Genuine oem sensors from Cummins. The Turbo vanes spin freely without restriction and have not been able to pinpoint any leaks in the system. Air filter is new Genuine part number 53034051AB. New Crankcase filter 4936636 .I will be replacing the EGR Valve assembly next but needed to know how to check actuator without damaging it in the process.If it was oem, I would go through the steps of removal and calibration testing but this one self calibrates.I thank you in advance for your help in this matter.
Dave, thank you for your video. But What do I have to do when the showed code is U010C ? Thank you