after long hours of searching for "why my kx125 stalls when shifting into gear" i came across your video. i read in some forums that these notches can be hanging up the clutch disks and prevent them from disengaging. I start the bike, let it warm up, pull the clutch, shift, and it shuts down with a bit of a buck. well my friend im glad i found you. I took the clutch assembly apart which looked rather new actually, to find that the basket was indeed the culprit from what you showed me about the notches. Well after about 4 hours of tear down, filing, cleaning, and assembly, i am happy to say the the clutch feels much better now and i can actually shift smoothly through all 5 gears even tho before i was lucky to make it into third. Thanks my friend great video and tutorial. i didnt see the need for drilling the holes however..lol i just didnt like the idea.
You would have to know bikes and how much it saves your clutch life if you ride aggressive or race. I've drilled holes in all my street strip race bikes turbo bikes. Kx and kdx and clutches last long and stay cooler by circulating more
hey just wanted to say this was a great video! My kx250 would have a slippy clutch when it was cold and i pulled it apart and sure enough it was grooved like yours was.I filed it down and reinstalled it and it runs perfect now with no clutch issues.save me some cash! Smightification
Mate , I salute you!! Just done this to my rm .its banging now.rips through the gears better than ever . I just done slightly bigger holes .thankyou very much .solved my sticking gears 1&2 . 🙌
It’s better to use a longer file and line it up onto the finger on the opposing side. This ensures you are maintaining alignment. Taking it slow ensures you don’t take too much off.
I have done a couple over the years, and the trick is to rub a stick of chalk on the file so Aluminium doesn't clog your file teeth. Use a finer metal file, and finish with a wet n dry paper around 400 grit to finish off.
Thank you very much for this. A grateful heart shares in abundance and has realized that which has been given returns x 3. Beyond that a true master will enjoy the benefit of 3x6x9.
My problem with my wr250f was the clutch wasn't completely disengaging when I pulled the lever and at slow speeds it would want to pull even with lever pulled. Just pulled my bike apart today. I was disappointed to see that it was not grooved that bad. Decided to file and sand the basket anyway. Put it all back together and it's good as new. As soon as I pull the clutch it drops to idle and doesn't pull continue to try and pull. Thanks so much for the video!
Will this help with a very hard to pull clutch lever on a 2008 Yamaha WR250F? Or do I need different springs? The clutch works fine with no sticking but just hard to pull.Thanks!!
All this is great, but I would not file any holes in your clutch basket. There's already a massive opening for oil..if the manufacturer thought holes would prolong the life, they would of. Also, this makes the basket less sturdy. Just make sure to oil each clutch/ring when installing
I’ve done everything from drilling to full blown aftermarket replacement...nothing beats the stock setup unless you pay some serious cash for a recluse or an ESD . If you want your clutch to last as long as possible buy a heavier duty disc and spring kit then constantly adjust it ...or just drop the cash on a hydraulic set up... either way stock seems to be the strongest and the cheapest ...full disclosure my style of riding if doesn’t require the clutch that often
excelente video soy de Buenos Aires, Argentina, tengo una rm125 del 93, y creo que esta puede ser mi solucion, al poner 1era, con el embrague apretado la moto se pone en movimiento, voy a sacar la canasta para repararla, aca hay pocos repuestos y muy caros..gracias
Without knowing much, and with all due respect, I think that if you file the problem becomes more acute because the disc will have more space and movement it will hit with more force and it will score deeper
Okay when I drop my bike in first gear it jumps and cuts off immediately... I’ve adjusted the clutch cable, but still same problem, do you think the clutch is gone or I should try this remedy. Thanks
nope many baskets are cast out of that "butter" aluminum. hey wait many aftermarket baskets are anodized. your right. so filing an aftermarket basket would take all that away but if it broke through the anodizing its done anyway so why not file it at that point.
Hey, thats an amazing video... Thanks for the info. I need some help with my Yamaha R1 clutch. I have a 99 R1 and the clutch does not work properly until the engine warms up. Even if I pull the clutch lever It does not engage however once the Bike is warmed up in idle, the clutch works perfectly fine. I got a new set of clutch plates but didn't help either. Im suspecting it has something to do with the basket or center hub. Any help to get that fixed would be gladly appreciated!! Thanks.
I'm not sure if that has separate cases for the motor oil and clutch, if it does, use automatic transmission fluid type F for the transmission and that will help, at least it should. If the engine and tranny share the oil, do an oil and filter change and use Shell Rotella T, it's a good oil for your situation, just be sure to get the correct weight.
The clutch on my dirt bike is very jumpy/jerky, it just kicks in all of a sudden. By doing what you've shown in your video fix my clutch problem? Thanks.
This could be the problem but I would check your clutch cable and lever and make sure they are greased very well and they are notchy, otherwise you could have a clutch cable adjustment that needs to be take care of, on older rm125s thats most likely the issue otherwise, this should fix your problem.
I have got pretty big grooves how far can you fall back before you affect the clutch any information would be appreciated thanks mate doing up a 1983 air cooled
I think its un necessary, and will weaken the basket more than you would want to, the couple of holes every other finger is enough, but what I will say, is maybe 3 small holes or use slightly larger drill bits than I did, it will keep more rigidity than just cutting slot, plus its faster. Those aftermarket clutch baskets are designed to have thicker sides in order to compensate for a hollow middle, on a stock basket its just overkill.
i need to do this because i am lacking funds right now, but just to be sure, r u sure not to file down both sides of the tabs and just the worst side? why? cause i would think doing both sides would be better to do but also at the same time are u saying not to because the gap would be to far apart inbetween when i measure with my scale ?
Ok, what you want to do is only file the side that it grooved because that is the side that the clutch plates push against when the bike is in gear and moving. Filing the other side will not do anything beneficial, just a waste of time. Now the second part is, you want to be sure to count the number of times you file each "tab" because if you file one down farther than the other, the clutch plates will dig in deep to the wider tabs causing the same problem again and wont distribute the pressure evenly. I forgot to count the number of times i filed so at the end i measured the width of each tab with the calipers and made sure they were all within a maximum of .5mm of each other. Do all this and youll be fine. Let me know if you need any other help.
I have filled all of them down nice and flat but It's still stalling when I kick it into first from neutral and I replaced gearbox oil but still no major results
They don't let the friction plates disengage smooth as they get caught in the clutch, meaning that when you pull the clutch in it can stick, or its notchy when you let it out and the clutch jumps.
Cody Sidlik Your right, I filed both sides of each tang smooth, and that lurching is gone, and saved over $200 bucks. On the crf450r the right side case will have to come off. I suspect the clutch will work better at 'pull in' (engagement) as well.
Clutch not fully disengaging (bike pulls forward when stationary and clutch pulled) or clutch slippage (slipping when accelerating and lever released). I'm having both issues at the same time on my SV650, going to take a look at the clutch but I suspect it's the grooves and old springs that are the problem (it has 42,000 miles on it)
spray that file with wd 40 and that bad boy won't load up on ya. and if it does it won't take as much effort to get the shavings out. it spritz it once for every groove and u will be golden
I have one...... I chose to use this because it has the same teeth pattern as the metal file one and had a nice radius on the edge for the curves in the fingers of the clutch basket.
after long hours of searching for "why my kx125 stalls when shifting into gear" i came across your video. i read in some forums that these notches can be hanging up the clutch disks and prevent them from disengaging. I start the bike, let it warm up, pull the clutch, shift, and it shuts down with a bit of a buck. well my friend im glad i found you. I took the clutch assembly apart which looked rather new actually, to find that the basket was indeed the culprit from what you showed me about the notches. Well after about 4 hours of tear down, filing, cleaning, and assembly, i am happy to say the the clutch feels much better now and i can actually shift smoothly through all 5 gears even tho before i was lucky to make it into third. Thanks my friend great video and tutorial. i didnt see the need for drilling the holes however..lol i just didnt like the idea.
You would have to know bikes and how much it saves your clutch life if you ride aggressive or race. I've drilled holes in all my street strip race bikes turbo bikes. Kx and kdx and clutches last long and stay cooler by circulating more
Love the detail, care and precision here. Great Video. Thanks for going into so much detail.
hey just wanted to say this was a great video! My kx250 would have a slippy clutch when it was cold and i pulled it apart and sure enough it was grooved like yours was.I filed it down and reinstalled it and it runs perfect now with no clutch issues.save me some cash! Smightification
Same here mate .works a beauty now 🙌
Mate , I salute you!! Just done this to my rm .its banging now.rips through the gears better than ever . I just done slightly bigger holes .thankyou very much .solved my sticking gears 1&2 . 🙌
It’s better to use a longer file and line it up onto the finger on the opposing side. This ensures you are maintaining alignment. Taking it slow ensures you don’t take too much off.
I have done a couple over the years, and the trick is to rub a stick of chalk on the file so Aluminium doesn't clog your file teeth. Use a finer metal file, and finish with a wet n dry paper around 400 grit to finish off.
That's what I did the other day on mine bar the chalk. Good call though it clogged like a motherfucker.
Over kill bro
Great job thanks. Now I can repair my bike.
Great explanation - you've inspired me to give it a go on my BSA Bantam. Cheers
Thank you very much for this. A grateful heart shares in abundance and has realized that which has been given returns x 3. Beyond that a true master will enjoy the benefit of 3x6x9.
Shut up nerd
My problem with my wr250f was the clutch wasn't completely disengaging when I pulled the lever and at slow speeds it would want to pull even with lever pulled. Just pulled my bike apart today. I was disappointed to see that it was not grooved that bad. Decided to file and sand the basket anyway. Put it all back together and it's good as new. As soon as I pull the clutch it drops to idle and doesn't pull continue to try and pull. Thanks so much for the video!
Just so others know I also drilled holes in the basket for added oil flow. Maybe that helped too...?
Curious to how the repairs held up for you?
Thanks for the video man. Very detailed!
Good, I'm glad It helped you out!
Will this help with a very hard to pull clutch lever on a 2008 Yamaha WR250F? Or do I need different springs? The clutch works fine with no sticking but just hard to pull.Thanks!!
when you file the groves down it wears faster. i have an 87 kx 250 and went to ebay and found a great deal on a basket and plates.
Kevin Stearns I have an 87 too but I’m try this anyways
Good explanation in this DIY. Gonna do this on my next clutch change. I like the advice on drilling the holes. Tks for making this video. :-)
ShannonFLHI No problem! just here to help!
All this is great, but I would not file any holes in your clutch basket. There's already a massive opening for oil..if the manufacturer thought holes would prolong the life, they would of. Also, this makes the basket less sturdy. Just make sure to oil each clutch/ring when installing
holes are beneficial on the inner hub however
I’ve done everything from drilling to full blown aftermarket replacement...nothing beats the stock setup unless you pay some serious cash for a recluse or an ESD . If you want your clutch to last as long as possible buy a heavier duty disc and spring kit then constantly adjust it ...or just drop the cash on a hydraulic set up... either way stock seems to be the strongest and the cheapest ...full disclosure my style of riding if doesn’t require the clutch that often
You already have a huge slot for oil to get in. Drilling those holes sound silly to me.
Great video!
excelente video soy de Buenos Aires, Argentina, tengo una rm125 del 93, y creo que esta puede ser mi solucion, al poner 1era, con el embrague apretado la moto se pone en movimiento, voy a sacar la canasta para repararla, aca hay pocos repuestos y muy caros..gracias
6:40 "They don't have to be all the same..." But,
6:54 "you want these to all be the same"
Texas Hank Palmer you’re not very smart... go back to school kid
Brandon Critteria obviously you didn’t watch the video dumbass
Without knowing much, and with all due respect, I think that if you file the problem becomes more acute because the disc will have more space and movement it will hit with more force and it will score deeper
Okay when I drop my bike in first gear it jumps and cuts off immediately... I’ve adjusted the clutch cable, but still same problem, do you think the clutch is gone or I should try this remedy. Thanks
Good video, but use a dremel lol. Much easier, just gotta be careful and not remove a ton of material.
Arent the baskets often surface hardened? I am just wondering if this will affect longevity
nope many baskets are cast out of that "butter" aluminum. hey wait many aftermarket baskets are anodized. your right. so filing an aftermarket basket would take all that away but if it broke through the anodizing its done anyway so why not file it at that point.
It will accelerate wear a bit because there will be a gap that can chatter more and gain momentum to deform the metal
Hey, thats an amazing video... Thanks for the info. I need some help with my Yamaha R1 clutch. I have a 99 R1 and the clutch does not work properly until the engine warms up. Even if I pull the clutch lever It does not engage however once the Bike is warmed up in idle, the clutch works perfectly fine. I got a new set of clutch plates but didn't help either. Im suspecting it has something to do with the basket or center hub. Any help to get that fixed would be gladly appreciated!! Thanks.
I'm not sure if that has separate cases for the motor oil and clutch, if it does, use automatic transmission fluid type F for the transmission and that will help, at least it should. If the engine and tranny share the oil, do an oil and filter change and use Shell Rotella T, it's a good oil for your situation, just be sure to get the correct weight.
The clutch on my dirt bike is very jumpy/jerky, it just kicks in all of a sudden. By doing what you've shown in your video fix my clutch problem? Thanks.
This could be the problem but I would check your clutch cable and lever and make sure they are greased very well and they are notchy, otherwise you could have a clutch cable adjustment that needs to be take care of, on older rm125s thats most likely the issue otherwise, this should fix your problem.
I just had to do this on my kx250f basket to buy some time
I have got pretty big grooves how far can you fall back before you affect the clutch any information would be appreciated thanks mate doing up a 1983 air cooled
David Steele check service Manual. Every bike is different
You are making the clearance between the basket and plate ears bigger, I'm not Shure about this
Great option you could just use a grinder but be careful how much you take off using it
thank
2:16 🙉
what do you think of cutting out a slot say between the two drill holes?
I think its un necessary, and will weaken the basket more than you would want to, the couple of holes every other finger is enough, but what I will say, is maybe 3 small holes or use slightly larger drill bits than I did, it will keep more rigidity than just cutting slot, plus its faster. Those aftermarket clutch baskets are designed to have thicker sides in order to compensate for a hollow middle, on a stock basket its just overkill.
what is the reason why the basket gone like that?
Clutch plates wear it down over time from engaging and disengaging
i know theres not an exact answer to this but how long will this make the clucth work again? 5 hours of ride time, 20, 50, 100?
If have movement between the basket and tge plate?
The basket need replace?
i need to do this because i am lacking funds right now, but just to be sure, r u sure not to file down both sides of the tabs and just the worst side? why? cause i would think doing both sides would be better to do but also at the same time are u saying not to because the gap would be to far apart inbetween when i measure with my scale ?
Ok, what you want to do is only file the side that it grooved because that is the side that the clutch plates push against when the bike is in gear and moving. Filing the other side will not do anything beneficial, just a waste of time. Now the second part is, you want to be sure to count the number of times you file each "tab" because if you file one down farther than the other, the clutch plates will dig in deep to the wider tabs causing the same problem again and wont distribute the pressure evenly. I forgot to count the number of times i filed so at the end i measured the width of each tab with the calipers and made sure they were all within a maximum of .5mm of each other. Do all this and youll be fine. Let me know if you need any other help.
I have done this and my clutch is still stuck it will not disengage and the plates and stuff are new what else could cause that to happen?
Mine to
the springs are probably dead
Try putting it in second and rocking it
I have filled all of them down nice and flat but It's still stalling when I kick it into first from neutral and I replaced gearbox oil but still no major results
Jarryd Maclachlan make sure the plates aren’t shiny
Try readjusting or replacing your clutch cable
what makes your bike want to walk while clutch engadged,no ajust .pulling rite off the grip
Do you need new clutch plates after you do this?
what problem do the 'grooves' cause?
They don't let the friction plates disengage smooth as they get caught in the clutch, meaning that when you pull the clutch in it can stick, or its notchy when you let it out and the clutch jumps.
Cody Sidlik Your right, I filed both sides of each tang smooth, and that lurching is gone, and saved over $200 bucks. On the crf450r the right side case will have to come off. I suspect the clutch will work better at 'pull in' (engagement) as well.
mine is wear out a lot at the top is there any way I can fix it.,,,
how do you know if you have a bad clutch?
Clutch not fully disengaging (bike pulls forward when stationary and clutch pulled) or clutch slippage (slipping when accelerating and lever released). I'm having both issues at the same time on my SV650, going to take a look at the clutch but I suspect it's the grooves and old springs that are the problem (it has 42,000 miles on it)
i pull in my clutch and it doesnt move forward
dang thats the most miles I've ever seen on an SV. Cool little bikes!!
*micrometer. Ebay - 5 bucks
spray that file with wd 40 and that bad boy won't load up on ya. and if it does it won't take as much effort to get the shavings out. it spritz it once for every groove and u will be golden
Wood rasp........ Use an actual file made for metal.
I have one...... I chose to use this because it has the same teeth pattern as the metal file one and had a nice radius on the edge for the curves in the fingers of the clutch basket.
sir what about the cover it is nessary file too theres a line？？？？ans pls
@@elmeralbiso8751 are you asking if you can file a pressure plate?
@@davesnyder6969 yap sir i want to try much better than stock
MA USI UNA LIMA DA FALEGNAME PER LEGNO !!!!!!!