I have a Ford explorer and it seems you could make enough tutorials to retire from TH-cam. This seems like a job I may have to take up the street to the shop. Glad you had this video before I got myself into troubles. Thank you!
I helped my son do his 2003 Explorer and that's when he brought up the nickname he had heard calling it an Exploder. I have worked on my own cars for years and this was perhaps the scariest job I have ever done. We have a well equipped shop with every tool you can think of but we had to mish-mash parts from all kinds of stuff to press these bearings out and back in. We actually did break one of the knuckles and had to go to a Pull a Part to scrounge for another. We got it done and yes I hate to say it but I did invent some new curse words while doing it. I will never do it again! I hate to have other people work on my or my families cars but this is one that I will gladly pay to have done. It is worth whatever the cost. You make great videos because they are instructive and and not meant to entertain. Thank you
Great video for the bearing removal. An old industrial maintenance master welder once showed me a trick to remove an "outer" bearing race trapped inside a housing. He stick welded a bead around the inside midpoint diameter of the old bearing race. Once it cooled, the race practically fell out on its own. He said it's all about expansion/contraction. I've used his tactic many times over the years. Works every time.
Thank you for your help. I have a 2004 Mercury Mountaineer 4.6 2WD that is still going strong with 380k miles. Its the same as the Ford Explorer. I was needing to replace the rear wheel bearings and found your video very helpful. On the good side, there is a complete rear hub assembly now so there is no need to press in new bearings now unless you just absolutely desire to do that. Great job on your videos. I have been watching a lot of them now. Congrats on getting the new 2021 F150.
I did this job...both sides in the driveway with jacks, stands and a creeper. This video is very good and helps a lot. It's a pain in the a$$ job. I just got the assembled MOOG (might have been Timken) hub w/ bearings installed from Rockauto. It's worth the extra cost just not to deal with anybody these days. Ill-tempered and incompetent is the order of the day now. I so miss working with helpful, friendly, competent people but far as I can tell they no longer exist or are too hard to find. That parking brake is a real joke and requires a lot of drinking and profanity. I'm old and had cataracts when I did it. (Lord I'm glad I live in the South and don't deal with rust) My 2004 Explorer looks like new underneath. I started with PB Blaster about a week ahead and everything came apart easy. I had a shop do the whole job and replace the bearings about 8 years ago and it failed in no time. I figure they messed up bearing pressing. I replaced the leaking differential seals while at it...that was easier than I thought. I would highly recommend replacing those seals if you are that far into it. No more Fords for this old boy.
This is a great video! I did this job in my driveway on both sides at once, and also did the rear axle seals while it was apart. Let me tell you... this job will make you curse! There's a couple things I would add to your great tutorial. First, there is a $7 dust seal that is in there, that is often not even recognizable from rust and rot. It's easy to replace while everything is apart. I only even knew it was there by looking at the Ford parts diagram. This seal might help keep water out of the back side of the bearing when driving thru water, so it's probably worth replacing. Second, I was practically standing on a 10 ton shop press, and it wouldn't break the bearing out of the knuckle. I think they use loctite for bearing races upon assembly, and those suckers are in there! Just like you said, when it finally breaks loose it's violent! Even standing on the jack handle of the shop press, I couldn't get it to break free. So here's what I did different than you. I used a hammer and punch to beat out every part of the bearing except the outer race. I then cut thru the bulk of the outer race using a whiz wheel on a 45 degree angle. Be careful not to cut entirely thru and into the knuckle! You aren't trying to cut thru the entire thing here. Instead, you are trying to cut thru the bulk of the center thick section of the race in order to weaken it! Then when you put it in the shop press, the press is much more easily able to break the race and it pops out with a lot less drama. But still with a bang! If you can pay someone else to do the pressing part, by all means do! But I have heard of guys actually breaking the knuckle before the race would pop free. So cut thru the thicker part of the race (the middle) before sending it off for the press work. And be SURE to support the inner race when pressing in the new hub!
Man I am glad I found your video. The local dealer wanted $1500.00 to the job. I wasn't sure how to do it. I found your video, it took me 45mins to take both sides apart. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge.
Removing the tow link to access the ball joint was an excellent suggestion for those of us with a lift to get underneath and reach the back of the knuckle. A 5 minute procedure saved me an unk amount of time.
2002 Ford Explorer with 300k miles - still runs good - son has driven it for school. Just did the rear passenger side wheal assembly and it is indeed a PITA. My nephew works at a machine shop and pressed the old bearing out and the new one in for me. Its been a good car however. I bought it with about 120K miles so I have put over 180k miles on the car. Its generally easy to work on all things being equal.
Thanks for the great TH-cam videos on changing the wheel bearings on a Ford Explorer. I was able to change all 4 bearings on my daughter's 2004 Explorer. The fronts were pretty easy but the backs were somewhat more difficult. Spreading the rear bearing carriers to dislodge the upper control arm connection was difficult due to the some rust, it finally came out. My shop is fairly well equipped including a 20 ton press. Following your advice, I definitely would not try to press them out myself, not that the press wouldn't handle it, but you really need the right fixtures to hold the piece firm and square. I took them to a shop down from my shop and they got the old ones out and the new ones in with little trouble and very modest cost, $30. One thing I did differently was to leave the lower arms on rather than trying to spread the piece to remove them. The shop had no problem doing the press work with the arms still attached. Thanks again for the great how-to videos! Joe
Thank you for the great video on how to do this. I just got an 05 Explorer for some dump runs, Home Depot, etc. I was able to complete this job quickly thanks to you detailed video. I’m lazy and bought an entire assembly with the brake shoes, backing plate, bearing, etc all together. It made the job a whole lot easier!
After watching your expert instructions, I was able to change my rear bearing on my 2002 Ford Explorer in less than three hours total removal and installation. but the joke is that parking brake gave me more trouble than anything else. I purchased my bearings from Amazon and a machinist installed them. Thank you
Great video. My sons 06 exploder had the left rear bearing snap in half with no warning on him while driving about 45 mph. I haven’t taken any of my trucks or SUV’s to a shop but followed this guys suggestions and all is good now.
Very good demonstration. I'm a fabricator and regularly use a press. I actually have 3 in the shop. I'm not a very good mechanic though but with a little help there hasn't been anything I couldn't do. Currently working on my moms explorer. Gotta do the ball joints in my deisle after that and then ill figure out the wiring in a jeep cherokee so I can give it to my little sister when she gets her license
Brian, SUPER video !!..I have a 2005 Ford Escape with 318,000 miles and I'm waiting for my rear wheel bearings to go...I guess the Escape and Explorer are similar in the replacement of the hub bearings....my trucks been "growling" the last 2 months or so and thought it may be the driveshaft carrier bearing...I had my tires replaced today and they tech confirmed my diagnosis after the road test after the alignment....what I understand is that bearing can't be replaced "separately" and that the driveshaft requires R&R (per Ford) but I see you can find the carrier bearing/ support from some driveline companies online...I'm pretty meticulous about my maintenance but the only job I haven't tackled (let my friends AAMCO handle that ) is the "infamous" CD4E transmission rebuild but I did get 282,200 miles before the tranny went...the alternator R&R at 234,000 miles was a "bear"...I heard the Ford techs hate doing this job too !!...looking forward to watching more of your videos... Thanks !!
Just wanted to say, my wife called freaking out this Monday saying our explorer was locking up, as i was flying out of town. She took it to a shop and they wanted $3700 for the rear hub. She then took it to a different shop, ( the guy was a complete a$% hat ) wanted $1100. But we didnt have the cash, said hat replied, if you did have the f^$&ing cash then why the f@#$ did you have me look at it. (Found out he unplugged our dash cam while he had it for the week. Anyway, after watching this, omg, it helped soooooooooo much that i cant thank you all enough, my family can be safe again. Thank you and thank tires plus (for getting the hub out and in) (freaked me out) (oh, and took me about 8 hours, crap tools and a lot of running around).
When pressing the hub back in, I always try to not completely press it on. It's tricky but if you leave the hub a hair from touching the inner race, then when you go to torque it the torque will bring you to the desired pretension and never go over. Never had an issue doing it that way
Definitely one of the best "FordTechMakuloco" I use you tube to do everything. Sewer, main drain, automotive, garage shelves, painting, modeling, etc... "FordTechMakuloco" actually shows you how to actually do the work. No false video already loosened parts. This is an exceptional video easy to hear, easy to understand and complete information You need to make Smart decision(s). IF YOU WILL DO IT YOURSELF, and advice if you should even do it yourself.
Lacking the modified brake drum that was used to position the Knuckle asm on the press, I used a wooden block under the caliper surface on one side and another block under the lower control arm mounts. I wedged a flat tire iron between then the lower control arm mounts and the splash shield to keep the shield from deforming (worked for me).
Brian I actually took one of the old rear rotors and brought them to my work and the maintainence shop plasma cut out the top of the rotor like the way you showed on your video. I set up the knuckle on the cut out rotor, started to try to press out the bearing, and one third of the rotor broke off from the pressure and the bearing didn't even budge.
this helped me understand what my mechanic goes through and why they charge what they do, there's such a disconnect between most car owners and their mechanic, but videos like this helps bridge that gap, thanks!
I've done this once... getting ready to do it again (unfortunately)... I can attest it's a pain. But it can be done with the right tools. Instead of using a press, I used the hub grappler tool. I had a really significant pop when my hub came out....took quite a bit of torque to get it started. That and the snap ring were the most difficult parts...(of course my snap ring pliers were weak sauce last time. ha.) Nice video!
Mechanics sure love Fords, there is never a shortage of work if you work on Fords. It wont be long before the upper ball joint will go bad on the vehicle shown in this video.
Hey man, thanks for this how to video... I replace my front hub & bearing on 04 Exploder and it went very well, thanks to your front bearing repair video; that was well done and very informative. I would recommend it to anyone that has to make that repair. The replacement of the rear bearing are way more tricky than the front, it sucks that you need special tools, if not for that I would go for this repair. Thanks again.
I have a question. What causes suspensions to squeak? I've noticed that on some Fords. My '05 Grand Marquis suspension would sometimes make a squeaking sound when I go over some bumps at low speeds.
Sway bar bushings are one of those parts that get dry and brittle over time. Its not a big deal for a DIYer or mechanic to change out. When you say "go over bumps" are you referring to going slow over speed bumps or just some bumps in the road? My 04 Ford Explorer needs to have the sway bar bushings changed every 50-60,000 miles. I hear the squeak a lot when I go at a reasonable speed over speed bumps, when I am not turning over the bump. You probably won't hear it as much if you are turning because there is the weight of the vehicle on the sway bar when you are in a more of a turn. Hope this helps.
the heat generated by the arc welder will greatly expand the the race that was left on the stub and when you turn the stub upside down the race should just fall off, been doing this since the 60's
Great video and tips. Special thanks for pointing out the correct push point starting at 18:30 and continuing through19:28. Without this information, the hydraulic press could be mistakenly set up to push on the knuckle lip instead of the bearing. The knuckle "lip" looks like it could be the outer ring of the bearing (about an eighth of an inch) but it's not. Find a pusher that fits inside the lip as you show. The lip on the knuckle provides a bottom out point when pressing a new bearing in.
Wish I have taken "how to do" videos in my day back at the dealer. Could of showed you guys how to do 3.8 head gaskets front and rear in 5 hrs. Also mark 8 evap cores in about 4 hrs. A lot of "tricks to the trade".
I just did this job pressed it in myself with an old rotor I just beat the center of the rotor in with a sledgehammer broke pretty easily and then I ground down the edges with a grinder 2004 Avalanche rear rotor fit perfectly. Thank you for the video it helps a lot
Fantastic Work! Now I'm glad I never tackled a few bearing jobs (sold 1 car & a friend request) but great to watch. just like breaking an exhaust stud and don't have acetylene you take the part to an equipped shop and done ready for reassembly.
Good video, the only thing is the axle nut on the cv shaft outer is 35mm not 34, i used a 1 3/8 socket to take mine off, had to convince it on with a hammer, i went to the parts store to get a 34 and I was pretty disappointed when i got home and it was too small so i just used the standard socket to put it back together. unless some years had a different size axle nut, who knows, just added to make others aware that may tackle this project. any ways It was nice to see an overview before I did it so I didn't have to fumble through it, I knew exactly how to take it apart etc.
This made it an easy decision; for $150 more than it would cost to do it myself, I'll gladly take this one to the shop and let someone else deal with it! thanks man :)
Thanks so much for the video. There are a few amateur videos as well but none as detailed as this. Everything came off and went on as your video demonstrated. Thanks for the tips as well. Did this on a 04 Lincoln aviator.
Hey man, Thanks so much for that tip on removing the upper control arm from the knuckle last, it's gonna save me so much time doing the other side. I really wished I watched your vid before spending an entire day with my step dad at his shop trying to push this bearing out.
This guy is the definition of perfection, glad he's doing his own thing now, but after 6 years, who's going with a "loaded knuckle". Me! (Especially since it's a driveway job)
First, Thank you! this is the best, most detail video for a difficult job I have seen in the past year. On a scale of 1 thru 10 for vehicle repair, this is an eight. Great job. You details and your patience have paid off for me and many others.
I completed this repair yesterday using this procedure. The only problem I had was once I assembled everything, I had to disconnect the top ball joint to move the caliper back into place because I hung it on the opposite side. I know I should have looked for that when hooking everything up. In trying to reconnect the top ball joint after it was connected and torqued previously, it needed some serious convincing with a hammer to do the second time. The pin also needed to be hit a lot. I feel like the top ball joint is 1-2mm high because it gouged some of the threads on the pin. I reassembled it and torqued the hell out of it. Do you think this joint is going to go anywhere? I found that the ears that you have to pry apart get recompressed on reassembly and that was what probably made it difficult to reconnect the second time. Thanks for the video!
Great video! I am definitely not tackling this job myself now that I see everything that goes into it. I used your video to do the front myself tho and it helped a TON! Thank you so much.
Have you ever seen the rear axle nut that was torqued to 203 ft lbs laying loose in the hub cap? My wife was complaining of a noise on her 2002 explorer. About one year ago, we paid to have the differential replaced.
Fortunately they sell the whole knuckle in the aftermarket world (Moog and Dorman) now! Makes the job way easier! Little more cost for the customer, but definitely the way to go! Thanks for the video!
Great video. Very informative. Too bad you couldn’t show the install. Were the time constraints a work thing or a TH-cam thing? If the latter then maybe a ‘part 2’? Whats the blue lube you put on the bearing & hub when you were pressing it in? I’ve always used anti-sieze or brake caliper grease since they can handle high temps without liquifying.
Very nice video. done this job on my 02 several times even with timkin bearings. always looking for press plates and never thought to cut out an old rotor. Thanks for that idea. Always emphasize when pressing new bearing in to never load thru the bearing so rollers don't get damaged. Hold inner race when pressing spindle.
Thanks for a great video. My 02 Explorer has over 200k so I've decided to take this one on myself. So far so good. My snap ring tool was too small to reach the ear holes. What worked well for me was inserting a chisel into one of the ears and tapping it with a hammer. I was able to twist it and pop it right. out.
Is there any way to grease that bearing without replacing? I just had mine replaced but they forgot to pack grease in there when they replaced it so I'm getting a high pitched squeaking at times. I would normally just take it back to the shop that did it but it went out while I was on the road about 300 miles from home.
FordTechMakuloco That's what I thought. Is it possible to remove and reinstall the same bearing without damaging it or should I just plan on buying another new bearing? Thank you for your quick response.
FordTechMakuloco , any chance you know where I could find a set of adapters to use with a shop press?? Doesn't seem like anyone carries them!! Thanks, and great video!!
FordTechMakuloco No problem!! Picking up a new press this weekend for future projects as well... would rather spend the money now to have them for down the road than end up paying my dealer similar money to do it for me! Thanks
I've had this video pulled up in a tab for something like three years collecting all the stuff I needed to do it. I don't have your press, just a small 12 Ton so it got interesting. Removed everything but the outer race and then heated it up and used a mini sledge to break it the tiniest bit loose and then the 12T did the rest pretty easy. Was close to a 12 hour job with all the running around for stuff I forgot and finding a kit to borrow that had the 3 inch and 3.25 inch plates for the press. Almost sad to close the tab. :'( Thanks for the video! Suffice to say I've used a few others too. :D
Great demonstration, its quite a labor intensive job replacing the bearings. I watched another video that the Mechanic had an extremely tough time getting the bearing out. Also, the little recommendations that you provided, gave more insight into areas where caution is important, especially when pressing out the bearing. Nice tutorial! Thanks
Nice work. I remember doing a rear wheel bearing replacement on my dad's 02 ford explorer, that wheel bearing would not budge. I ended up getting the whole knuckle.
Nice video, with A lot of good tips especially using the deep Rotor Hat (probably off a F-150 ?) so you can use it to backup the knuckle to press the hub out . I think I measured that I would need a receiver with an approximate ID of about 7 3/8" to fit around the parking brake shoes an OD approximately 7 3/4" to drop into the circular recess of the backing plate .
holy shit! just did one today on a friends 04 explorer. you wouldve thought a gun went off. used a 20ton with air powered hydraulic switch so i could stand away remotely from it and not get hit by anything lol. went boom boom really quick. only other job that scared me that bad was pressing out a front lower ball joint on an 08 trailblazer. that did the same thing
Thank you very much. I have 2008 Explorer and there is a humming noise coming and gets clearer on 60mph. However, the noise goes away every time I turn the wheel slightly to the right. Yesterday I changed the right front bearing, but the noise is still there. Did I change the wrong side? Or the issue is from the rear bearing? Please please help
Normally when you turn to the right the drivers side bearing is loaded up. Change the drivers side it is probably failing anyway knowing these vehicles. Generally the rears have to be really bad to make noise on a slight turn like this.
My 2004 Explorer\Mountaineer has a 36mm axle nut as opposed to the 34mm mentioned in this video, so be sure to double check the size of yours if you order the socket.
Awesome video, it is the best one I've seen on youtube so far. I just don't get why people don't want to give it a try themselves if they have all he tools for it? I'm sure going to give it try myself I even went as far as getting a press, so I feel pretty confident in getting it done by me following step by step the way yo did it. thanks again for the video
A lot of people don't have a press. Of all my friends I'm the only one who does. Its worth a try if you have a press, but I would also recommend you have a torch as if the vehicle is from the rustbelt I have had to max out my 20 ton and then heat the knuckle with a rosebud to get it to move. Not everyone has a torch handy but if thats what it takes to get it out it becomes a necessity. If just the inner race and cage comes out but the rest is locked in, it can help to grab a welder and run a few full circle beads inside the race at the center. Not only does this give you some extra steel to press against, when the weld cools it contracts inward which can force the rust bond to break and reduce the force needed to bust it out. If I was in a pinch with no torch it might be worth a try to pack the inside of the bearing with dry ice for maybe 15 or 20 minutes and then start pressing while heating the knuckle with a propane torch. Could possibly see that working. I think he was giving the don't try this at home warning because most people don't have a torch, welder or shop press and this model in particular can get you in a bad place quick if you don't brace things up properly. Those with some equipment and some good shop sense will have no problem.
My sister has a 4.0 4x4 explorer and its either a 2003 or 2004 but either way, its getting a hard loud BANG BANG BANG almost randomly, it changes if I go up hills though, quieter or louder - it has a mind of its own. It seems to be coming from the transmission area and I was wondering if I should start looking at the rear or the U/CV joints or possible the xfer case? The car accelerates and shifts gears mostly normal but the banging does speed/slow with RPM
Any idea what size dies those were for pressing the bearings in and out? I have a press but no dies.. curious if the cheap 10pcs 20 dollar sets on amazon would have the one I need... Thanks!
Funny thing is about 5 years ago a coworker had their 08 explorer rear bearings done. I said back then no damn way I getting one,I bought a well maintained 2002.🙈 . You right that is a horror show,but I do work at a Ford dealership, 👍. Tganks for the show, blessings, amen from🇨🇦
The 2000 rear suspension is much different from the 02.Cant tell you which is worse but the alignment cam bolt assembly removal usually must be replaced on the older model because its seized and my solution is surgical sawzall action after all options are expended
And once again your videos are awesome!!!!!!!!! The first one I used that I commented on was the blend door which was great. And now this one. I had a press at work and step by step it went smooth. I can't thank you enough for the great videos. You have saved me a lot of money.
The knuckle on the 2008 Explorer is different, although it appears to use the same hub and bearing. The factory service manual tells me to remove and discard the nuts and bolts for the outboard toe link, upper arm, and lower arm. Are these torque to yield? How critical is it that they be replaced?
if the bearing and the race come apart is it unfixable? trying to get the new one in accidently knocked the bearing apart. im just sending it to a machine shop at this point but i didnt know if they could fix it or if i need a new one.
Hello Sir, I changed both front sides with motorcraft wheel hubs. However, there is still a noise and light vibration in the wheel. It is very clear in 60mph and goes away on slight right turn or any curve to the right. Could it be the tires? (1 month old) or Could it be the the control arm? (I hear a sound on bump) Could it be alignment problem? This car is driving me crazy. Please please help!
I noticed the table top of your press has been bent.. was this done on purpose for a specific job? If so why? What minimum size opening of the table top (press) do you recommend? When you say you don't recommend doing this job yourself why? ..what are the dangers of operating a press for this job? What can happen if you're not careful.
Thanks for this video. My 02 Explorer needs the left rear wheel bearing replaced. I'm considering removing the knuckle myself and taking it to a shop to have them do the pressing. My only concern is removing the axle nut since I don't have air tools. I will have to get the socket as well as a 1/2" breaker bar and rent a torque wrench. I've replaced two ball joints as well as sway bar links and brakes. I'm fairly confident I can do it. What kind of shops should I call for the press?
I've done a few of these and just use the aftermarket kits that come with the snap ring bearing and hub. Our shop doesn't have a press so have to send to machine shop. He does not like the ebrake parts on it. Do those get in the way at all?
I just did this job on a 2003 lincoln with no special tools. Hardest part is the snap ring install. Not understanding the hype? A freezer and toaster oven with some big sockets and light tapping is all I needed.
Looking at the looseness of the upper ball joint, do you think it should be replaced? I am at that decision point for mine. Thanks! Video was very helpful!
Very NICE! I bring it to a NAPA machine shop and they do a great job there. Even some shops use them. I think I paid $60 for both sides, worth it. The setup is very similar to an IRS 89-97 Tbird/Mark8(identical except for size once the spindle is off). I know there special Ford tools for the press cups for that vehicle. In the salt belt those DIY 20Ton presses won't touch that. It is also dangerous if you aren't experienced, not a DIY thing. There are some FWD hub tamer tools but I don't think they would do this job. I usually get a new hub, I guess it is ok though if it is intact.
I am lucky that i have access to a shop and all tools seen in this video. This looks like it took a few hours and will probably take me double that. But i simply cant afford to pay a mechanic 600 plus to do this for me. So thanks so much for the video and wish me luck!
Could I still do this , only having a rotor that’s cut out along with bearing press kit ? I don’t have anything like the metal block with the circle cut out .
I have a Ford explorer and it seems you could make enough tutorials to retire from TH-cam. This seems like a job I may have to take up the street to the shop. Glad you had this video before I got myself into troubles. Thank you!
J
I helped my son do his 2003 Explorer and that's when he brought up the nickname he had heard calling it an Exploder. I have worked on my own cars for years and this was perhaps the scariest job I have ever done. We have a well equipped shop with every tool you can think of but we had to mish-mash parts from all kinds of stuff to press these bearings out and back in. We actually did break one of the knuckles and had to go to a Pull a Part to scrounge for another. We got it done and yes I hate to say it but I did invent some new curse words while doing it. I will never do it again! I hate to have other people work on my or my families cars but this is one that I will gladly pay to have done. It is worth whatever the cost. You make great videos because they are instructive and and not meant to entertain. Thank you
God bless all of you that take the time to show the rest of us how its done i cant exsplane how much this helps thanks again
Exsplane??? Oh someone needs to bitch slap your ENGRISH teacher! The word, In English spelling is Explain! SMH!
Massey fresioun 165 REAR hub seal
Amen brother :-)
@@FuqArndNdFndOutBeach u couldn't sleep because something wasn't spelled the way that you wanted . Very Petty , a cry baby or you must be joking
true
Great video for the bearing removal. An old industrial maintenance master welder once showed me a trick to remove an "outer" bearing race trapped inside a housing. He stick welded a bead around the inside midpoint diameter of the old bearing race. Once it cooled, the race practically fell out on its own. He said it's all about expansion/contraction. I've used his tactic many times over the years. Works every time.
+Lawrence Henderson yes I have also heard of this but never was into welding until now
Thank you for your help. I have a 2004 Mercury Mountaineer 4.6 2WD that is still going strong with 380k miles. Its the same as the Ford Explorer. I was needing to replace the rear wheel bearings and found your video very helpful. On the good side, there is a complete rear hub assembly now so there is no need to press in new bearings now unless you just absolutely desire to do that. Great job on your videos. I have been watching a lot of them now. Congrats on getting the new 2021 F150.
H
Butter
Less Shwab does this for about $400 parts and labor per wheel, and loose there ass on labor
I did this job...both sides in the driveway with jacks, stands and a creeper. This video is very good and helps a lot. It's a pain in the a$$ job. I just got the assembled MOOG (might have been Timken) hub w/ bearings installed from Rockauto. It's worth the extra cost just not to deal with anybody these days. Ill-tempered and incompetent is the order of the day now. I so miss working with helpful, friendly, competent people but far as I can tell they no longer exist or are too hard to find. That parking brake is a real joke and requires a lot of drinking and profanity. I'm old and had cataracts when I did it. (Lord I'm glad I live in the South and don't deal with rust) My 2004 Explorer looks like new underneath. I started with PB Blaster about a week ahead and everything came apart easy. I had a shop do the whole job and replace the bearings about 8 years ago and it failed in no time. I figure they messed up bearing pressing. I replaced the leaking differential seals while at it...that was easier than I thought. I would highly recommend replacing those seals if you are that far into it. No more Fords for this old boy.
This is a great video! I did this job in my driveway on both sides at once, and also did the rear axle seals while it was apart. Let me tell you... this job will make you curse! There's a couple things I would add to your great tutorial. First, there is a $7 dust seal that is in there, that is often not even recognizable from rust and rot. It's easy to replace while everything is apart. I only even knew it was there by looking at the Ford parts diagram. This seal might help keep water out of the back side of the bearing when driving thru water, so it's probably worth replacing.
Second, I was practically standing on a 10 ton shop press, and it wouldn't break the bearing out of the knuckle. I think they use loctite for bearing races upon assembly, and those suckers are in there! Just like you said, when it finally breaks loose it's violent! Even standing on the jack handle of the shop press, I couldn't get it to break free. So here's what I did different than you. I used a hammer and punch to beat out every part of the bearing except the outer race. I then cut thru the bulk of the outer race using a whiz wheel on a 45 degree angle. Be careful not to cut entirely thru and into the knuckle! You aren't trying to cut thru the entire thing here. Instead, you are trying to cut thru the bulk of the center thick section of the race in order to weaken it! Then when you put it in the shop press, the press is much more easily able to break the race and it pops out with a lot less drama. But still with a bang! If you can pay someone else to do the pressing part, by all means do! But I have heard of guys actually breaking the knuckle before the race would pop free. So cut thru the thicker part of the race (the middle) before sending it off for the press work. And be SURE to support the inner race when pressing in the new hub!
Man I am glad I found your video. The local dealer wanted $1500.00 to the job. I wasn't sure how to do it. I found your video, it took me 45mins to take both sides apart. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge.
Removing the tow link to access the ball joint was an excellent suggestion for those of us with a lift to get underneath and reach the back of the knuckle. A 5 minute procedure saved me an unk amount of time.
2002 Ford Explorer with 300k miles - still runs good - son has driven it for school. Just did the rear passenger side wheal assembly and it is indeed a PITA. My nephew works at a machine shop and pressed the old bearing out and the new one in for me. Its been a good car however. I bought it with about 120K miles so I have put over 180k miles on the car. Its generally easy to work on all things being equal.
Thanks for the great TH-cam videos on changing the wheel bearings on a Ford Explorer. I was able to change all 4 bearings on my daughter's 2004 Explorer. The fronts were pretty easy but the backs were somewhat more difficult. Spreading the rear bearing carriers to dislodge the upper control arm connection was difficult due to the some rust, it finally came out. My shop is fairly well equipped including a 20 ton press. Following your advice, I definitely would not try to press them out myself, not that the press wouldn't handle it, but you really need the right fixtures to hold the piece firm and square. I took them to a shop down from my shop and they got the old ones out and the new ones in with little trouble and very modest cost, $30. One thing I did differently was to leave the lower arms on rather than trying to spread the piece to remove them. The shop had no problem doing the press work with the arms still attached.
Thanks again for the great how-to videos!
Joe
Thank you for the great video on how to do this. I just got an 05 Explorer for some dump runs, Home Depot, etc. I was able to complete this job quickly thanks to you detailed video.
I’m lazy and bought an entire assembly with the brake shoes, backing plate, bearing, etc all together. It made the job a whole lot easier!
Seems like your in a high quality mechanic school with his clarity in explaining in full detail.
After watching your expert instructions, I was able to change my rear bearing on my 2002 Ford Explorer in less than three hours total removal and installation. but the joke is that parking brake gave me more trouble than anything else. I purchased my bearings from Amazon and a machinist installed them. Thank you
Great video. My sons 06 exploder had the left rear bearing snap in half with no warning on him while driving about 45 mph. I haven’t taken any of my trucks or SUV’s to a shop but followed this guys suggestions and all is good now.
Thanks for posting! I like to do all repairs and maintenance myself, but I think I'm taking my 2005 XLT to the Ford dealer.
I watch all his video's. He's a very sharp guy.well trained. I am a mechanic myself.
Very good demonstration. I'm a fabricator and regularly use a press. I actually have 3 in the shop. I'm not a very good mechanic though but with a little help there hasn't been anything I couldn't do. Currently working on my moms explorer. Gotta do the ball joints in my deisle after that and then ill figure out the wiring in a jeep cherokee so I can give it to my little sister when she gets her license
Brian, SUPER video !!..I have a 2005 Ford Escape with 318,000 miles and I'm waiting for my rear wheel bearings to go...I guess the Escape and Explorer are similar in the replacement of the hub bearings....my trucks been "growling" the last 2 months or so and thought it may be the driveshaft carrier bearing...I had my tires replaced today and they tech confirmed my diagnosis after the road test after the alignment....what I understand is that bearing can't be replaced "separately" and that the driveshaft requires R&R (per Ford) but I see you can find the carrier bearing/ support from some driveline companies online...I'm pretty meticulous about my maintenance but the only job I haven't tackled (let my friends AAMCO handle that ) is the "infamous" CD4E transmission rebuild but I did get 282,200 miles before the tranny went...the alternator R&R at 234,000 miles was a "bear"...I heard the Ford techs hate doing this job too !!...looking forward to watching more of your videos... Thanks !!
Just wanted to say, my wife called freaking out this Monday saying our explorer was locking up, as i was flying out of town. She took it to a shop and they wanted $3700 for the rear hub. She then took it to a different shop, ( the guy was a complete a$% hat ) wanted $1100. But we didnt have the cash, said hat replied, if you did have the f^$&ing cash then why the f@#$ did you have me look at it. (Found out he unplugged our dash cam while he had it for the week. Anyway, after watching this, omg, it helped soooooooooo much that i cant thank you all enough, my family can be safe again. Thank you and thank tires plus (for getting the hub out and in) (freaked me out) (oh, and took me about 8 hours, crap tools and a lot of running around).
When pressing the hub back in, I always try to not completely press it on. It's tricky but if you leave the hub a hair from touching the inner race, then when you go to torque it the torque will bring you to the desired pretension and never go over. Never had an issue doing it that way
Definitely one of the best "FordTechMakuloco" I use you tube to do everything. Sewer, main drain, automotive, garage shelves, painting, modeling, etc... "FordTechMakuloco" actually shows you how to actually do the work. No false video already loosened parts. This is an exceptional video easy to hear, easy to understand and complete information You need to make Smart decision(s). IF YOU WILL DO IT YOURSELF, and advice if you should even do it yourself.
Lacking the modified brake drum that was used to position the Knuckle asm on the press, I used a wooden block under the caliper surface on one side and another block under the lower control arm mounts. I wedged a flat tire iron between then the lower control arm mounts and the splash shield to keep the shield from deforming (worked for me).
I followed this video word for word and it turned out awesome. My car is fixed and it took me very little time. Thanks
Brian I actually took one of the old rear rotors and brought them to my work and the maintainence shop plasma cut out the top of the rotor like the way you showed on your video. I set up the knuckle on the cut out rotor, started to try to press out the bearing, and one third of the rotor broke off from the pressure and the bearing didn't even budge.
this helped me understand what my mechanic goes through and why they charge what they do, there's such a disconnect between most car owners and their mechanic, but videos like this helps bridge that gap, thanks!
Thanks for the video.This was enough to remind me that I am not a mechanic and should not be attempting something like this myself.
I've done this once... getting ready to do it again (unfortunately)... I can attest it's a pain. But it can be done with the right tools. Instead of using a press, I used the hub grappler tool. I had a really significant pop when my hub came out....took quite a bit of torque to get it started. That and the snap ring were the most difficult parts...(of course my snap ring pliers were weak sauce last time. ha.)
Nice video!
Mechanics sure love Fords, there is never a shortage of work if you work on Fords. It wont be long before the upper ball joint will go bad on the vehicle shown in this video.
Hey man, thanks for this how to video... I replace my front hub & bearing on 04 Exploder and it went very well, thanks to your front bearing repair video; that was well done and very informative. I would recommend it to anyone that has to make that repair. The replacement of the rear bearing are way more tricky than the front, it sucks that you need special tools, if not for that I would go for this repair. Thanks again.
Probably one of the Best videos of a repair I have ever seen,I will continue to go to your videos for all my auto repairs,thank you
I have a question. What causes suspensions to squeak? I've noticed that on some Fords. My '05 Grand Marquis suspension would sometimes make a squeaking sound when I go over some bumps at low speeds.
Is it the front or the rear? You might want to check out the sway bar bushings.
Scott Belkin It's the front. It seems to do it when humidity is low.
Sway bar bushings are one of those parts that get dry and brittle over time. Its not a big deal for a DIYer or mechanic to change out.
When you say "go over bumps" are you referring to going slow over speed bumps or just some bumps in the road?
My 04 Ford Explorer needs to have the sway bar bushings changed every 50-60,000 miles. I hear the squeak a lot when I go at a reasonable speed over speed bumps, when I am not turning over the bump. You probably won't hear it as much if you are turning because there is the weight of the vehicle on the sway bar when you are in a more of a turn.
Hope this helps.
Found your channel the other day. Outstanding content.
you can use an arc welder to remove the race by just running a bead about half way around the race and it will expand and fall off.
I know that is what I heard but only half way around.
the heat generated by the arc welder will greatly expand the the race that was left on the stub and when you turn the stub upside down the race should just fall off, been doing this since the 60's
Great video and tips. Special thanks for pointing out the correct push point starting at 18:30 and continuing through19:28. Without this information, the hydraulic press could be mistakenly set up to push on the knuckle lip instead of the bearing. The knuckle "lip" looks like it could be the outer ring of the bearing (about an eighth of an inch) but it's not. Find a pusher that fits inside the lip as you show. The lip on the knuckle provides a bottom out point when pressing a new bearing in.
You have done a great job to help all people with FORD EXPLORERS
Call me crazy but that's why I like this guy he cleans everything up
Also it may also be a whine in the rear end. Been there done that also. I'm liking all the special tools in the back round.
Wish I have taken "how to do" videos in my day back at the dealer. Could of showed you guys how to do 3.8 head gaskets front and rear in 5 hrs. Also mark 8 evap cores in about 4 hrs. A lot of "tricks to the trade".
I just did this job pressed it in myself with an old rotor I just beat the center of the rotor in with a sledgehammer broke pretty easily and then I ground down the edges with a grinder 2004 Avalanche rear rotor fit perfectly. Thank you for the video it helps a lot
Could I buy a part that already has bearing installed and if so what is it called rear hub bearing assembly? I dont have a press.
Yes Moog sells the complete knuckles
@@FordTechMakuloco thanks
I paid a shop $150 and they used a torch and hammer and now it’s worse than before I arrived there.
How much? Independent suspension rwd with cv axles in rear.
Fantastic Work! Now I'm glad I never tackled a few bearing jobs (sold 1 car & a friend request) but great to watch. just like breaking an exhaust stud and don't have acetylene you take the part to an equipped shop and done ready for reassembly.
Very good vid...to the point and good communication with no BS. I NEEDED THIS. THANKS
Good video, the only thing is the axle nut on the cv shaft outer is 35mm not 34, i used a 1 3/8 socket to take mine off, had to convince it on with a hammer, i went to the parts store to get a 34 and I was pretty disappointed when i got home and it was too small so i just used the standard socket to put it back together. unless some years had a different size axle nut, who knows, just added to make others aware that may tackle this project. any ways It was nice to see an overview before I did it so I didn't have to fumble through it, I knew exactly how to take it apart etc.
@ikaikaboy88 it was a 35mm on this one but was able to get away with using a standard size instead
This made it an easy decision; for $150 more than it would cost to do it myself, I'll gladly take this one to the shop and let someone else deal with it! thanks man :)
spacemunky1979 They are a pain but many had asked for this video so here it is.
Thanks so much for the video. There are a few amateur videos as well but none as detailed as this. Everything came off and went on as your video demonstrated. Thanks for the tips as well. Did this on a 04 Lincoln aviator.
Hey man, Thanks so much for that tip on removing the upper control arm from the knuckle last, it's gonna save me so much time doing the other side. I really wished I watched your vid before spending an entire day with my step dad at his shop trying to push this bearing out.
This guy is the definition of perfection, glad he's doing his own thing now, but after 6 years, who's going with a "loaded knuckle". Me! (Especially since it's a driveway job)
q+
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Bro I'm blessed you gave us that truck on the E brake on pulling it from t he back, instead of removing the entire brake cable!!!
First, Thank you! this is the best, most detail video for a difficult job I have seen in the past year. On a scale of 1 thru 10 for vehicle repair, this is an eight. Great job. You details and your patience have paid off for me and many others.
Well done. Thanks for all the little tips like the torque specs and loctite use. Got my new hubs from amazon today and my weekend planned out.
I completed this repair yesterday using this procedure. The only problem I had was once I assembled everything, I had to disconnect the top ball joint to move the caliper back into place because I hung it on the opposite side. I know I should have looked for that when hooking everything up. In trying to reconnect the top ball joint after it was connected and torqued previously, it needed some serious convincing with a hammer to do the second time. The pin also needed to be hit a lot. I feel like the top ball joint is 1-2mm high because it gouged some of the threads on the pin. I reassembled it and torqued the hell out of it. Do you think this joint is going to go anywhere? I found that the ears that you have to pry apart get recompressed on reassembly and that was what probably made it difficult to reconnect the second time. Thanks for the video!
Scared to even ask with all that's involved whats a normal price for a mechanic to charge to do this? 😣 im sure it isn't very affordable
Great video! I am definitely not tackling this job myself now that I see everything that goes into it. I used your video to do the front myself tho and it helped a TON! Thank you so much.
Have you ever seen the rear axle nut that was torqued to 203 ft lbs laying loose in the hub cap? My wife was complaining of a noise on her 2002 explorer. About one year ago, we paid to have the differential replaced.
Fortunately they sell the whole knuckle in the aftermarket world (Moog and Dorman) now! Makes the job way easier! Little more cost for the customer, but definitely the way to go! Thanks for the video!
Great video. Very informative. Too bad you couldn’t show the install. Were the time constraints a work thing or a TH-cam thing? If the latter then maybe a ‘part 2’?
Whats the blue lube you put on the bearing & hub when you were pressing it in? I’ve always used anti-sieze or brake caliper grease since they can handle high temps without liquifying.
Very nice video. done this job on my 02 several times even with timkin bearings. always looking for press plates and never thought to cut out an old rotor. Thanks for that idea. Always emphasize when pressing new bearing in to never load thru the bearing so rollers don't get damaged. Hold inner race when pressing spindle.
Thanks for a great video. My 02 Explorer has over 200k so I've decided to take this one on myself. So far so good. My snap ring tool was too small to reach the ear holes. What worked well for me was inserting a chisel into one of the ears and tapping it with a hammer. I was able to twist it and pop it right. out.
John Staif Yep I have done the same with a flat blade screwdriver.
Is there any way to grease that bearing without replacing? I just had mine replaced but they forgot to pack grease in there when they replaced it so I'm getting a high pitched squeaking at times. I would normally just take it back to the shop that did it but it went out while I was on the road about 300 miles from home.
No this is a sealed bearing
FordTechMakuloco That's what I thought. Is it possible to remove and reinstall the same bearing without damaging it or should I just plan on buying another new bearing? Thank you for your quick response.
FordTechMakuloco , any chance you know where I could find a set of adapters to use with a shop press?? Doesn't seem like anyone carries them!! Thanks, and great video!!
You would spend more in adapters than if you just dropped the knuckles off at the dealer to be pressed.
FordTechMakuloco No problem!! Picking up a new press this weekend for future projects as well... would rather spend the money now to have them for down the road than end up paying my dealer similar money to do it for me! Thanks
Thank you very much! Impact and air hammer is a definite definite must as you said! Cut time in half
What year is this Explorer? My 2002 requires a 36MM socket to remove the axle nut.
Great video. I did this yesterday on my Explorer and breezed through this in no time. Thanks!
great video. Essential for us DIY guys. Gives that opportunity to decide before I even start to ask myself, "Do I want to attempt this?"
MrOnemanop Exactly
Axle nut is more like 35 or 36 on mine.
Which 35 or 36?
I've had this video pulled up in a tab for something like three years collecting all the stuff I needed to do it. I don't have your press, just a small 12 Ton so it got interesting. Removed everything but the outer race and then heated it up and used a mini sledge to break it the tiniest bit loose and then the 12T did the rest pretty easy. Was close to a 12 hour job with all the running around for stuff I forgot and finding a kit to borrow that had the 3 inch and 3.25 inch plates for the press. Almost sad to close the tab. :'( Thanks for the video! Suffice to say I've used a few others too. :D
Great demonstration, its quite a labor intensive job replacing the bearings. I watched another video that the Mechanic had an extremely tough time getting the bearing out.
Also, the little recommendations that you provided, gave more insight into areas where caution is important, especially when pressing out the bearing. Nice tutorial!
Thanks
how much do you normally charge for this job? I need my rear wheel bearing replaced on my 2005 explorer. thanks
Excellent video. Biggest thing I learned is that this is past my skillset!! Lol. Glad I watched before I tore into it.
Dude, you are an awesome mechanic!!! Thanks for sharing the great info in the videos you share with all us DIY’er’s!!! Much love!!!
What about Timken Bearings?
I replaced a rear whl brg on my 96 Mark Vlll and the factory bearing that was in it was a Timken Bearing.
Nice work. I remember doing a rear wheel bearing replacement on my dad's 02 ford explorer, that wheel bearing would not budge. I ended up getting the whole knuckle.
Nice video, with A lot of good tips especially using the deep Rotor Hat (probably off a F-150 ?) so you can use it to backup the knuckle to press the hub out . I think I measured that I would need a receiver with an approximate ID of about 7 3/8" to fit around the parking brake shoes an OD approximately 7 3/4" to drop into the circular recess of the backing plate .
holy shit! just did one today on a friends 04 explorer. you wouldve thought a gun went off. used a 20ton with air powered hydraulic switch so i could stand away remotely from it and not get hit by anything lol. went boom boom really quick. only other job that scared me that bad was pressing out a front lower ball joint on an 08 trailblazer. that did the same thing
Thank you very much. I have 2008 Explorer and there is a humming noise coming and gets clearer on 60mph. However, the noise goes away every time I turn the wheel slightly to the right. Yesterday I changed the right front bearing, but the noise is still there. Did I change the wrong side? Or the issue is from the rear bearing? Please please help
Normally when you turn to the right the drivers side bearing is loaded up. Change the drivers side it is probably failing anyway knowing these vehicles. Generally the rears have to be really bad to make noise on a slight turn like this.
Update:
Changed both front bearings. Still there is a noise and vibration in the steering wheel.
My 2004 Explorer\Mountaineer has a 36mm axle nut as opposed to the 34mm mentioned in this video, so be sure to double check the size of yours if you order the socket.
Absolutely one of the best helpful videos I've seen. Thank you.
Just did this job... your video helped a LOT ! Thank you
Awesome video, it is the best one I've seen on youtube so far. I just don't get why people don't want to give it a try themselves if they have all he tools for it? I'm sure going to give it try myself I even went as far as getting a press, so I feel pretty confident in getting it done by me following step by step the way yo did it.
thanks again for the video
A lot of people don't have a press. Of all my friends I'm the only one who does. Its worth a try if you have a press, but I would also recommend you have a torch as if the vehicle is from the rustbelt I have had to max out my 20 ton and then heat the knuckle with a rosebud to get it to move. Not everyone has a torch handy but if thats what it takes to get it out it becomes a necessity. If just the inner race and cage comes out but the rest is locked in, it can help to grab a welder and run a few full circle beads inside the race at the center. Not only does this give you some extra steel to press against, when the weld cools it contracts inward which can force the rust bond to break and reduce the force needed to bust it out.
If I was in a pinch with no torch it might be worth a try to pack the inside of the bearing with dry ice for maybe 15 or 20 minutes and then start pressing while heating the knuckle with a propane torch. Could possibly see that working. I think he was giving the don't try this at home warning because most people don't have a torch, welder or shop press and this model in particular can get you in a bad place quick if you don't brace things up properly. Those with some equipment and some good shop sense will have no problem.
harbor frieght has press for 175$ and bearing / seal install / removal kit 59$ . and if you need more then take r yo a shop jack
will be on sale there in a few weeks for even less!
Nick Warner best youtube comment I have ever read thank u. Also u said this model is known to be problematic if the bearing gets stuck
Great video. Do you have any videos showing replacement of rear wheel bearings on a f150? Thanks
My sister has a 4.0 4x4 explorer and its either a 2003 or 2004 but either way, its getting a hard loud BANG BANG BANG almost randomly, it changes if I go up hills though, quieter or louder - it has a mind of its own. It seems to be coming from the transmission area and I was wondering if I should start looking at the rear or the U/CV joints or possible the xfer case? The car accelerates and shifts gears mostly normal but the banging does speed/slow with RPM
Any idea what size dies those were for pressing the bearings in and out? I have a press but no dies.. curious if the cheap 10pcs 20 dollar sets on amazon would have the one I need... Thanks!
Literally the only reason I watched this whole video is to see you put it all back together 😏
Funny thing is about 5 years ago a coworker had their 08 explorer rear bearings done. I said back then no damn way I getting one,I bought a well maintained 2002.🙈 . You right that is a horror show,but I do work at a Ford dealership, 👍. Tganks for the show, blessings, amen from🇨🇦
The 2000 rear suspension is much different from the 02.Cant tell you which is worse but the alignment cam bolt assembly removal usually must be replaced on the older model because its seized and my solution is surgical sawzall action after all options are expended
And once again your videos are awesome!!!!!!!!! The first one I used that I commented on was the blend door which was great. And now this one. I had a press at work and step by step it went smooth. I can't thank you enough for the great videos. You have saved me a lot of money.
muskygod1 Nice!
can you do one on replacing the rear toe link on a 2005 ford explorer? i can only find videos for 2006 and later when ford used traverse toe links.
The knuckle on the 2008 Explorer is different, although it appears to use the same hub and bearing. The factory service manual tells me to remove and discard the nuts and bolts for the outboard toe link, upper arm, and lower arm. Are these torque to yield? How critical is it that they be replaced?
if the bearing and the race come apart is it unfixable? trying to get the new one in accidently knocked the bearing apart. im just sending it to a machine shop at this point but i didnt know if they could fix it or if i need a new one.
Hello Sir, I changed both front sides with motorcraft wheel hubs. However, there is still a noise and light vibration in the wheel. It is very clear in 60mph and goes away on slight right turn or any curve to the right. Could it be the tires? (1 month old) or
Could it be the the control arm?
(I hear a sound on bump)
Could it be alignment problem?
This car is driving me crazy. Please please help!
I noticed the table top of your press has been bent.. was this done on purpose for a specific job? If so why? What minimum size opening of the table top (press) do you recommend? When you say you don't recommend doing this job yourself why? ..what are the dangers of operating a press for this job? What can happen if you're not careful.
you mean the center was wider, I think it was custom made for these kinds of jobs over the years.
Thanks for this video. My 02 Explorer needs the left rear wheel bearing replaced. I'm considering removing the knuckle myself and taking it to a shop to have them do the pressing. My only concern is removing the axle nut since I don't have air tools. I will have to get the socket as well as a 1/2" breaker bar and rent a torque wrench. I've replaced two ball joints as well as sway bar links and brakes. I'm fairly confident I can do it. What kind of shops should I call for the press?
I've done a few of these and just use the aftermarket kits that come with the snap ring bearing and hub. Our shop doesn't have a press so have to send to machine shop. He does not like the ebrake parts on it. Do those get in the way at all?
UDraft4 Nope not with the special tool.
I just did this job on a 2003 lincoln with no special tools.
Hardest part is the snap ring install.
Not understanding the hype?
A freezer and toaster oven with some big sockets and light tapping is all I needed.
Looking at the looseness of the upper ball joint, do you think it should be replaced? I am at that decision point for mine.
Thanks!
Video was very helpful!
Very NICE! I bring it to a NAPA machine shop and they do a great job there. Even some shops use them. I think I paid $60 for both sides, worth it. The setup is very similar to an IRS 89-97 Tbird/Mark8(identical except for size once the spindle is off). I know there special Ford tools for the press cups for that vehicle. In the salt belt those DIY 20Ton presses won't touch that. It is also dangerous if you aren't experienced, not a DIY thing. There are some FWD hub tamer tools but I don't think they would do this job. I usually get a new hub, I guess it is ok though if it is intact.
hey buddy just a quick question was that upper ball also due to change? it seemed loose when you were cleaning out the boot.
I am lucky that i have access to a shop and all tools seen in this video. This looks like it took a few hours and will probably take me double that. But i simply cant afford to pay a mechanic 600 plus to do this for me. So thanks so much for the video and wish me luck!
Could I still do this , only having a rotor that’s cut out along with bearing press kit ? I don’t have anything like the metal block with the circle cut out .
I would just buy the Moog complete knuckle.