Enjoy watching your channel. I really like your diagnostic approach. It is easy to tell this is not your first rodeo and that you have excellent motor repair techniques. Compression, Spark/timing, Fuel, vacuum leaks. Then changing the lower end gear oil, checking for water in the oil to see if any additional repairs are needed i.e. seals etc. Checking the water pump and replacing if necessary is a given. I noticed you removed the prop. That also is always a proper maintenance as it always good to check if you have any fishing line wound around the shaft which can destroy your lower shaft seal. Look forward to watching your second video on this motor. It will deserve a nice paint job on the rest of the motor to match the nicely painted cowl and a properly repaired engine. Keep up the excellent videos as I really enjoy them. You are the man!!!!! John
I agree...he did everything in about the exact order I always did. The very first thing is a compression check, that way you know which direction to proceed..... :-)
You’ve come a long ways in your ability to repair Outboard motors I’ve been watching since day one I worked at an authorized Johnson dealer in trained at the OMC factory you are now a first rate mechanic well done you got it right
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina Question for Randy Miller or RMD Creations: Can the short and long drive shafts/shift linkage/exhaust tube be swapped? I have a long shaft power head but the lower unit is 100% rust on inside! I can only find short shaft lower units. Could I purchase a short shaft lower unit and just swap out the short shaft components? Luckily my long drive shaft pinon splines are rust free. Thanks for any help guys!
I run a 10x14 with my ‘84-35 on my S-16 Lund. It came with that pitch and I’m very happy with it. The boat goes like a scared rabbit with me and my buddy out on Lake Erie. Great video. Looking forward to part 2 and a boat run with this engine. Greetings from St. Catharines, Ontario.
Very cool vid... I worked on lots of this area and prior era motors when I was 13-18 years old.... And then when I was in my 30s..... I am 58 now. These were so easy to troubleshoot, and that is the first step I always did, a compression check. You did everything I did in about the same exact order to most all the old motors I tinkered with. I liked that 76-79 era of motors.... no break points, but before they started going super cheap on a lot of things.... I think that 35 was also of the same family / displacement - 20-25 and a 28 special if I remember right. The 9.9 / 15 was a favorite of mine as well.... good vid....
Great To See more videos coming from you. I just got an Astroglass 16 ft. fishing boat with a 50 HP mercury where the deck was rotten and needed replaced SOOO the rotten wood is out and I'm trying my hand at Fiber glassing in a new to me front deck. My biggest problem is the weather won't let me do it here in Nashville TN Sure wish I had a place like you have to work in. Thanks again for more videos and keep them coming.
Thank Michale, you make it look easy and fun! Got many outboards in my shed retire in 4 months! Looking forward to playing with outboards ! You kodi and this old are my favs!! Can’t wait for the newest adventure! My biz partner has a 69 islander like yours . Got it with a new offshore bracket . No motors , put a new 140 hp outboard and 9.9 kicker .Great offshore boat ,Pacific Ocean salmon rock fish slayer!
LOVE TH STUFF YOU SHARE !!! Maybe you can go into checking wires and electrical things with a meter or equipment for us newbies .... You have given me courage to tackle tougher stuff ... thanks
Great video!! I’ve learned so much from your videos. How to do things the right way! You should show the cleaning part in the video, I love watching that! 😂
I've noticed the better quality of your video, before you mentioned it, Thank you for doing what you do, but could you tell how to make a fresh water motor, into a salty... Anodes an all. Does "salt a way" work? Thanks again.
How did you get the copper tube back into the water pump, because it's hard to push it back into the grommet. I missed that when you just pushed the lower back in.
Thanks for a great video In the beginning you said that you changed some electrical parts what is the part number for the coils and electrical box and do you have the part number for the gas pump I have the same engine here in Sweden on my ryds 520ST
Thanks for the video. I am working on a 1978 25 hp that looks just like yours. The wiring is bad and just crumbles. Do you think I can get a new one and where?
That outboard comes in 3 versions 1st -Electric start 2nd - pull start 3rd - Electric and pull start so they have 2 different hoods and the motor with electric only doesn’t have a recoil on top so you can wrap a rope onto the flywheel and pull start if you had to ! Just an observation ! I’d pay $300 for that one , nice score ! It has at least $600 in parts alone if you parted it out !
Question: What gasket glue do you use when you put the cover on the thermostat housing I saw Dungar Marine shows him spraying something on the gasket both sides but he is using something british
Great Video. I own a Johnson 35 hr that I just purchased and I am trying to get it going. I took it out for the trial run and it started well, jumped up on plane and went 400 yards then almost died. After that it would only run at 1/3 power. I ordered a carb kit and redid the carb today but the kit had a different kind of needle in it with a hook spring on it but the old one had no spring or a place to put one. I decided to try the new needle with the spring clip and the motor started ran for 15 seconds then died and would not start. I am wondering if you have any thoughts about the needle choice I made. I replaced the fuel lines as well. One more question.... There was a gasket between the air box and the front of the carburetor to the air box. My Carb kit did not include one so I will end up making one but how the heck do you keep it in place and not have it fall out?
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina It is old. I was wondering if that might be the problem I ordered a pump tonight. I figure that if I replace the pump and I still have the problem I will have to go back into the dragons colon and see if I missed something in the carb. By the way I give you the credit for giving me the guts to attempt the surgery! Thank you for the great work.
Hi I have a 1981 starcraft with 3.8 omc and 800 sterndrive it was very hard to shift into gear i think I've traced it to the lower drive sift assist thing how hard is it supposed to move ?? And this is my 1st boat some tips would be great if you have time
You’ve really got me wanting to wear Hawaiian shirts, only problem is I work on the greasier machines like tractors and trucks, maybe later this summer when I’m working on outboards I’ll have to throw on the Hawaiian shirt!
Is merc a standard poodle? Nice looking dog! Gotta do my pump on 28 Johnson it’s original from 92 I bought it new runs good shoots out water, but it’s pretty old
Seriously, i would like to get in touch, i would like to get my 1959 seahorse 15hp running like a top again, it runs, but when it wants to, and i have a few questions.
Hi Michael, I am working on a 79 Johnson (exact same) motor. It is my first outboard to own and work on. Having discoveries of my own, and overcome each one with your help. Thanks. One thing I can't figure out is how to adjust shift linkage. My shift arm, when in straight up neutral position, is actually in reverse, and have to move forward for neutral and even more forward to shift in forward. It is too far clockwise for shift cable to properly shift into forward. My coupler which is the same as this motor, has only one bolt, the bottom one, and the top one is either snapped off or is welded onto upper shaft. So either the cam gear at the shift arm is jumped or the shaft is too long. What do I do?
makes me wonder if someone changed something or put it together wrong or made their own shaft. You could take it apart and shorten it to make the shift lever in the right position.
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina Yes, all possibilities. But cutting and welding the shaft shorter is probably best bet. Do I have to take the power head off, to get to the upper shift linkage and remove it? I saw how you can remove the one bolt and the shift arm and shaft come out, but what about the lever and the long shaft down the upper housing, how does that come out? Great videos by the way. Keep them coming. Subber and notifications are for sure set.
I've got a 1981 35hp i picked up for a case of beer!! Apparently it runs and dies and no one can figure it out. I've ran it in the test tank for an hour and it runs good.. the only thing I can see is that it had a 4 blade 16 pitch prop on it. Im going to get a 13 pitch prop and try it out.
I have an early 90’s Evinrude 9:9. I’ve heard you can put a carb from a 15 hp on it to make it a 15 hp. Have you ever done that carb swap? Any opinion on the modification? Thanks
?I need your help bud pls I got 6hp Evinrude think its from the early to mid 90s but when I'm going on the boat it will run perfectly for 5 mins then it will just shut off and will not start back up for about a hour or till completely cooled of pumps water like a champ also any info u can give would be awesome love your videos by the way
Ok sounds like plan yeah for got to say it has no spark after it shuts off to so I think u might just be right thanks a bunch I'll let you know in a week or so when I get the parts if that was it thanks again
Hey bud first thing is love the channel been subscribed for a year now I think I have a question I think u can help me I have a 6hp Evinrude that runs grate starts first pull and all but will on run for about 5 mins the just dies and will not start for about a hour or two and then keeps doing that all over the harder u run it the faster it will die thanks for any help u can give bud
@@cliff0dean yeah now that he just told me its probably my coils I remembered it has no spark after it shuts off also so I think he is right I think the coils are overheating and need replaced thanks for information though bud
The 1979 and 1980 35's had higher compression than all of the 31.5 cu in motors that came later. After an hour of run time, It will likely come up above 140. I have three, plus a couple later 35/30 motors that I depend on in the ocean. Very durable motors. The gear ratio of the lower unit is somewhat higher than later motors, 1.89 to 1 sticks in my head. pretty high. A 15" pitch will work with a light clean boat, but on my 700 lb work boat, I run an 11" pitch. 13 P was too much. You will soon notice that the lower unit is 2" longer than a normal "Long Shaft". It will likely be 22" from clamp to cav plate instead of 20" This complicates mounting a bit if you want to optimize the setup. It has the clamps and only two 5/16 bolt holes so raising the motor two inches can take some thought.. I added a couple inches to the top of the transom. You can just mount it and bee a couple inches deep with the cav plate, but it will cost a bit of speed and efficiency.. As someone who really depends on running these 40 year old motors successfully, I do have some advice. These motors have sitting, for the most part, for decades. It is important to wake them up gently. Whether you can see or feel it or not, there is typically some light corrosion throughout the motor. An hour or two of normal run time will, in effect, clean up any corrosion naturally. Think of it as breaking it in again. Done at all right, you should pick up some compression and reduce friction of all moving parts, for long term durability. This is a terrible time to get a lean run. Even a little lean reduces lubrication. I strongly recommend cleaning the carb thoroughly before running.. Any obstruction of the jets and passages will make it run lean and you won't even know until it bogs or starts to cut out Too late. Just like during initial break in, avoid any lean condition during the first hour or two of an outboard reawakening. Cleaning that carb is Is the best way to avoid. carb in that motor. On that motor the starter must be removed to pull the carb. A bit of a hassle, but still less than five minutes, not so bad......Cheers, JE
Lot's of excellent advice. I have a advantage being in Iowa is that most all motors I am working with have been fresh water only used. Thanks for watching and commenting
hey buddy how are you i like youre videos i have been watching for long time i have the same motor im wonder if you can give me the part number for the starter please thank you :)
Enjoy watching your channel. I really like your diagnostic approach. It is easy to tell this is not your first rodeo and that you have excellent motor repair techniques. Compression, Spark/timing, Fuel, vacuum leaks. Then changing the lower end gear oil, checking for water in the oil to see if any additional repairs are needed i.e. seals etc. Checking the water pump and replacing if necessary is a given. I noticed you removed the prop. That also is always a proper maintenance as it always good to check if you have any fishing line wound around the shaft which can destroy your lower shaft seal.
Look forward to watching your second video on this motor. It will deserve a nice paint job on the rest of the motor to match the nicely painted cowl and a properly repaired engine.
Keep up the excellent videos as I really enjoy them. You are the man!!!!!
John
Thank you for watching and the kind words. I will keep the videos coming.
I agree...he did everything in about the exact order I always did. The very first thing is a compression check, that way you know which direction to proceed..... :-)
You’ve come a long ways in your ability to repair Outboard motors I’ve been watching since day one I worked at an authorized Johnson dealer in trained at the OMC factory you are now a first rate mechanic well done you got it right
Thank you so much for the kind words. I'll keep tinkering. Thanks for watching
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina
Question for Randy Miller or RMD Creations: Can the short and long drive shafts/shift linkage/exhaust tube be swapped? I have a long shaft power head but the lower unit is 100% rust on inside! I can only find short shaft lower units. Could I purchase a short shaft lower unit and just swap out the short shaft components? Luckily my long drive shaft pinon splines are rust free. Thanks for any help guys!
Video quality and sound were spot on great job i enjoyed the video 👍👍
Awesome, thank you!
I run a 10x14 with my ‘84-35 on my S-16 Lund. It came with that pitch and I’m very happy with it. The boat goes like a scared rabbit with me and my buddy out on Lake Erie. Great video. Looking forward to part 2 and a boat run with this engine. Greetings from St. Catharines, Ontario.
Great to hear!
Very cool vid... I worked on lots of this area and prior era motors when I was 13-18 years old.... And then when I was in my 30s..... I am 58 now. These were so easy to troubleshoot, and that is the first step I always did, a compression check. You did everything I did in about the same exact order to most all the old motors I tinkered with. I liked that 76-79 era of motors.... no break points, but before they started going super cheap on a lot of things.... I think that 35 was also of the same family / displacement - 20-25 and a 28 special if I remember right. The 9.9 / 15 was a favorite of mine as well.... good vid....
I should have it running this weekend and release the second video. Thanks for watching.
Thank you, Rabbi (Hebrew for TEACHER). You are a teacher, for sure. Love your videos.
Wow, thank you!
Great To See more videos coming from you. I just got an Astroglass 16 ft. fishing boat with a 50 HP mercury where the deck was rotten and needed replaced SOOO the rotten wood is out and I'm trying my hand at Fiber glassing in a new to me front deck. My biggest problem is the weather won't let me do it here in Nashville TN Sure wish I had a place like you have to work in. Thanks again for more videos and keep them coming.
I will keep them coming. I have over 30 outboards to fix this summer and my big Starcraft. Thanks for watching and commenting
Thank Michale, you make it look easy and fun!
Got many outboards in my shed retire in 4 months! Looking forward to playing with outboards ! You kodi and this old are my favs!! Can’t wait for the newest adventure! My biz partner has a 69 islander like yours . Got it with a new offshore bracket . No motors , put a new 140 hp outboard and 9.9 kicker .Great offshore boat ,Pacific Ocean salmon rock fish slayer!
You can do it! Thanks for watching and commenting
LOVE TH STUFF YOU SHARE !!! Maybe you can go into checking wires and electrical things with a meter or equipment for us newbies .... You have given me courage to tackle tougher stuff ... thanks
I will do some more of that when I trouble shoot some coil issues when they come up. Thanks for watching
Enjoyed the video. Thanks for posting. Like the way you explain the way you work.
Thanks for watching!
Love your channel learned a lot over last 6 months
Great to hear!
Super clean video! I'm loving the new camara and wireless mic. Great video as always
Glad you like it!
New into outboards and you've taught me a ton thanks! Great videos
Glad you like them!
Great video!! I’ve learned so much from your videos. How to do things the right way! You should show the cleaning part in the video, I love watching that! 😂
I will on the next one. Thanks for watching
I've noticed the better quality of your video, before you mentioned it, Thank you for doing what you do, but could you tell how to make a fresh water motor, into a salty... Anodes an all. Does "salt a way" work? Thanks again.
Noted! I will look into that. Being in the mid west here I don't get much exposure to the salt issues.
Your videos motivate me, thank you.
You are so welcome!
what do you use to clean up around the powerhead? i have see you pressure washer part of the cleaning process.
How did you get the copper tube back into the water pump, because it's hard to push it back into the grommet. I missed that when you just pushed the lower back in.
you need to make sure you have some grease on the rubber and the copper tube.
Thanks for a great video In the beginning you said that you changed some electrical parts what is the part number for the coils and electrical box and do you have the part number for the gas pump I have the same engine here in Sweden on my ryds 520ST
You can find your parts on marineengine.com
“Whippy-Snippy” great video!
Thanks for watching. Can't wait to get a boat wet this spring.
Thanks for the video. I am working on a 1978 25 hp that looks just like yours. The wiring is bad and just crumbles. Do you think I can get a new one and where?
check marineengine.com , not sure if a wiring harness is still available.
eBay often has parts available / listed.....
nice looking mercury LOL and that johnson is nice to. keep up the great videos,
Thanks, will do!
That outboard comes in 3 versions 1st -Electric start 2nd - pull start 3rd - Electric and pull start so they have 2 different hoods and the motor with electric only doesn’t have a recoil on top so you can wrap a rope onto the flywheel and pull start if you had to ! Just an observation ! I’d pay $300 for that one , nice score ! It has at least $600 in parts alone if you parted it out !
Good information, thanks.
For 300 bucks looks like you have a good one Mike. Will be cool to see it on the water
I can't wait to see how it performs.
Question: What gasket glue do you use when you put the cover on the thermostat housing I saw Dungar Marine shows him spraying something on the gasket both sides but he is using something british
Indian head gasket shellac
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina is that readily available anywhere?
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina Do you ever run across any late 60’s 18hp to repair
Great Video. I own a Johnson 35 hr that I just purchased and I am trying to get it going. I took it out for the trial run and it started well, jumped up on plane and went 400 yards then almost died. After that it would only run at 1/3 power. I ordered a carb kit and redid the carb today but the kit had a different kind of needle in it with a hook spring on it but the old one had no spring or a place to put one. I decided to try the new needle with the spring clip and the motor started ran for 15 seconds then died and would not start. I am wondering if you have any thoughts about the needle choice I made. I replaced the fuel lines as well. One more question.... There was a gasket between the air box and the front of the carburetor to the air box. My Carb kit did not include one so I will end up making one but how the heck do you keep it in place and not have it fall out?
I should have mentioned it is a 1979
How old is the fuel pump? Sounds like it could be starving for fuel.
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina It is old. I was wondering if that might be the problem I ordered a pump tonight. I figure that if I replace the pump and I still have the problem I will have to go back into the dragons colon and see if I missed something in the carb. By the way I give you the credit for giving me the guts to attempt the surgery! Thank you for the great work.
Where does a 1972 evinrude pump the water out I can't find the weep hole on mine
on the older ones it just blubblers out of the upper exhaust.
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina ok I appreciate it!!
That 35 is going to push the Banna boat good
I really hope so. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Hi I have a 1981 starcraft with 3.8 omc and 800 sterndrive it was very hard to shift into gear i think I've traced it to the lower drive sift assist thing how hard is it supposed to move ?? And this is my 1st boat some tips would be great if you have time
I wish I had tips for you on this issue. I have not pulled apart a larger lower like this.
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina thank you
You’ve really got me wanting to wear Hawaiian shirts, only problem is I work on the greasier machines like tractors and trucks, maybe later this summer when I’m working on outboards I’ll have to throw on the Hawaiian shirt!
heck yeah, wear that shirt
Brings a whole new meaning to HANG TEN ! Lol
Is merc a standard poodle? Nice looking dog! Gotta do my pump on 28 Johnson it’s original from 92 I bought it new runs good shoots out water, but it’s pretty old
He is a standard poodle. We have the mom and dad of him. Pump is cheap insurance
Seriously, i would like to get in touch, i would like to get my 1959 seahorse 15hp running like a top again, it runs, but when it wants to, and i have a few questions.
My email is at the bottom of the description. Email me what's going on an I might be able to help.
Awesome outboard. Wish I had one. : )
The best!
You need to attend a video course dude !
Thanks for watching and commenting.
I have no spark on the top cylinder 1976 Johnson 15hp. Any help would be appreciated. I’ve changed coils plugs and set point but still nothing
I have had a similar issue, Check the wires to the coil to make sure they are grounding out on you.
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina okay I will, I need any help I can get!!
Hi Michael, I am working on a 79 Johnson (exact same) motor. It is my first outboard to own and work on. Having discoveries of my own, and overcome each one with your help. Thanks. One thing I can't figure out is how to adjust shift linkage. My shift arm, when in straight up neutral position, is actually in reverse, and have to move forward for neutral and even more forward to shift in forward. It is too far clockwise for shift cable to properly shift into forward. My coupler which is the same as this motor, has only one bolt, the bottom one, and the top one is either snapped off or is welded onto upper shaft. So either the cam gear at the shift arm is jumped or the shaft is too long. What do I do?
makes me wonder if someone changed something or put it together wrong or made their own shaft. You could take it apart and shorten it to make the shift lever in the right position.
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina Yes, all possibilities. But cutting and welding the shaft shorter is probably best bet. Do I have to take the power head off, to get to the upper shift linkage and remove it? I saw how you can remove the one bolt and the shift arm and shaft come out, but what about the lever and the long shaft down the upper housing, how does that come out? Great videos by the way. Keep them coming. Subber and notifications are for sure set.
I have a 50 Evinrude with no spark on cylinder 1top cylinder. I change the coils and the CD1 power pack and still nothing. Any suggestions please
I have had a similar issue, Check the wires to the coil to make sure they are grounding out on you.
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina I concur...exactly...corroded / bad grounds are a major source of this sort of trouble
can you make a set ignition video. followed by setting the carburettor.
I can when the opportunity presents itself.
Looks really good! I need to do some videos....
Yes you do, I want to see how those boats are coming along
I do have a 35hp on my boat, same size as your banana boat. I get 19 to 21 mph. I have a 4 blade prop pitch 11
Here is the banana. th-cam.com/video/5GDBEQzn2YQ/w-d-xo.html 5 part series on restoring it.
I've got a 1981 35hp i picked up for a case of beer!! Apparently it runs and dies and no one can figure it out. I've ran it in the test tank for an hour and it runs good.. the only thing I can see is that it had a 4 blade 16 pitch prop on it. Im going to get a 13 pitch prop and try it out.
Good luck and thanks for watching.
I have an early 90’s Evinrude 9:9. I’ve heard you can put a carb from a 15 hp on it to make it a 15 hp. Have you ever done that carb swap? Any opinion on the modification? Thanks
not sure about that year. I have done it on a late 70's Johnson.
Thank you. Your videos are informative and filled with common sense.
Yes just a carb change you heard right
Thanks very helpfull
Glad to hear!
?I need your help bud pls I got 6hp Evinrude think its from the early to mid 90s but when I'm going on the boat it will run perfectly for 5 mins then it will just shut off and will not start back up for about a hour or till completely cooled of pumps water like a champ also any info u can give would be awesome love your videos by the way
ohm out your coils
Ok sounds like plan yeah for got to say it has no spark after it shuts off to so I think u might just be right thanks a bunch I'll let you know in a week or so when I get the parts if that was it thanks again
Hey bud first thing is love the channel been subscribed for a year now I think I have a question I think u can help me I have a 6hp Evinrude that runs grate starts first pull and all but will on run for about 5 mins the just dies and will not start for about a hour or two and then keeps doing that all over the harder u run it the faster it will die thanks for any help u can give bud
Have you tried squeezing the bulb while its running?
Sounds like you may have bad coils.
@@cliff0dean yeah now that he just told me its probably my coils I remembered it has no spark after it shuts off also so I think he is right I think the coils are overheating and need replaced thanks for information though bud
The 1979 and 1980 35's had higher compression than all of the 31.5 cu in motors that came later. After an hour of run time, It will likely come up above 140. I have three, plus a couple later 35/30 motors that I depend on in the ocean. Very durable motors. The gear ratio of the lower unit is somewhat higher than later motors, 1.89 to 1 sticks in my head. pretty high. A 15" pitch will work with a light clean boat, but on my 700 lb work boat, I run an 11" pitch. 13 P was too much.
You will soon notice that the lower unit is 2" longer than a normal "Long Shaft". It will likely be 22" from clamp to cav plate instead of 20" This complicates mounting a bit if you want to optimize the setup. It has the clamps and only two 5/16 bolt holes so raising the motor two inches can take some thought.. I added a couple inches to the top of the transom. You can just mount it and bee a couple inches deep with the cav plate, but it will cost a bit of speed and efficiency..
As someone who really depends on running these 40 year old motors successfully, I do have some advice. These motors have sitting, for the most part, for decades. It is important to wake them up gently. Whether you can see or feel it or not, there is typically some light corrosion throughout the motor. An hour or two of normal run time will, in effect, clean up any corrosion naturally. Think of it as breaking it in again. Done at all right, you should pick up some compression and reduce friction of all moving parts, for long term durability. This is a terrible time to get a lean run. Even a little lean reduces lubrication. I strongly recommend cleaning the carb thoroughly before running.. Any obstruction of the jets and passages will make it run lean and you won't even know until it bogs or starts to cut out Too late. Just like during initial break in, avoid any lean condition during the first hour or two of an outboard reawakening. Cleaning that carb is Is the best way to avoid. carb in that motor. On that motor the starter must be removed to pull the carb. A bit of a hassle, but still less than five minutes, not so bad......Cheers, JE
Lot's of excellent advice. I have a advantage being in Iowa is that most all motors I am working with have been fresh water only used. Thanks for watching and commenting
do you fix outboards for other pepole
Sorry I do not. I buy them, fix them, the sell them. Some I keep. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Where do you buy your fuel line from? I’m looking for the best place to buy some marine line from for my several small motors. Thanks!
I just buy it from my local Napa.
hey buddy how are you i like youre videos i have been watching for long time i have the same motor im wonder if you can give me the part number for the starter please thank you :)
0586278 - Starter Motor. This is the one mine takes. Here is the link to amazon. amzn.to/2TAaWdj
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina thank you so much just ordered appreciated a lot
Should paint the rest
If it runs good I may treat it to some new paint. Thanks for watching.
If you go to my videos I have short videos of my Johnson 35hp running
?????
!!!!!
Can u read my other comment pls? realy need help