Can't believed this actually worked. I've been trying to diagnose my AC problem for over a year. I've completed a coolant flush, changed a rear blend door. Nothing worked. I was losing AC when my RPM went over 2000. Making these replacements finally fixed my problem. Took only a half hour to complete thanks to your video. And the cost was only $40! Very thankful to have found this video and thankful that my family won't be dying during this hot California summer.
Well-done. I deviated from what you did by removing the through plug from the bottom hole, cut the old line and pulled the line from the top. Then, using a bent out coat hanger to go in from the bottom hole up to the top, i taped my new hose to the end of the coat hanger to pull and fish up to the top. Then made the connection with the red vacuum line. The rest I copied what you did.
Great job. That's a proper rigging. Bunch of other people telling everyone to bypass reservoir completely then they're still blowing out defrost when they go up a hill
This information work well much better than the other videos on the repair I tucked my Vacuum canister on the right side underneath the - you can never tell work was done Thanks for your video
Wow 2013 vehicle and the check valve fails. Others fail after 10 years or more. I am truly curious to find out what really fails. I've heard line breakage, resevoir failure, check valve failure. Has anyone actually found out exactly what fails? One gentleman said you can access the original vacuum reservoir inside fender wall. So why does Ford charge a grand to pull the ac works? Geez I'd love to know exactly what fails.
The factory vacuum reservoir is hidden inside wheel well. Its a big pain in @$$ to access. You’ll have to remove the front wheel and almost disassemble the dash. No thank you!!
Stupid engineering, If stuck in defrost: EASY/ QUICK SOLUTION: ABANDON factory reservoir/ check valve, grab vacuum line under hood near OIL FILL, (where it changes from RED to BLACK) pull line loose from firewall (pull hard, it will pop loose from connection in engine compartment) under passenger foot well firewall into the cab and push new line thru to engine, grab (w/ wire hook) and connect by OIL FILL. Install new check and reservoir UNDER DASH on passenger side.
Can't believed this actually worked. I've been trying to diagnose my AC problem for over a year. I've completed a coolant flush, changed a rear blend door. Nothing worked. I was losing AC when my RPM went over 2000. Making these replacements finally fixed my problem. Took only a half hour to complete thanks to your video. And the cost was only $40! Very thankful to have found this video and thankful that my family won't be dying during this hot California summer.
Thanks for the video, my AC right is working again. Very helpful that you included what parts were needed to do the job.
Well-done. I deviated from what you did by removing the through plug from the bottom hole, cut the old line and pulled the line from the top. Then, using a bent out coat hanger to go in from the bottom hole up to the top, i taped my new hose to the end of the coat hanger to pull and fish up to the top. Then made the connection with the red vacuum line. The rest I copied what you did.
Great job. That's a proper rigging. Bunch of other people telling everyone to bypass reservoir completely then they're still blowing out defrost when they go up a hill
This information work well much better than the other videos on the repair I tucked my Vacuum canister on the right side underneath the - you can never tell work was done Thanks for your video
If (working, but changes w/ acceleration), then just a bad check valve, so just ADD a new check valve in line near the OIL FILL at firewall under hood
So just add a check valve right on the red manifold line?
So helpful bro, thanks a lot
What size tubing was used
VERY NICE..TNKS..
Not bad brou I like it
Where did you buy the vac canister d check valve? Any part numbers?
I'm still trying to find the cable he keeps referring to. All I have is plastic and rubber hoses.
Wow 2013 vehicle and the check valve fails. Others fail after 10 years or more. I am truly curious to find out what really fails. I've heard line breakage, resevoir failure, check valve failure. Has anyone actually found out exactly what fails? One gentleman said you can access the original vacuum reservoir inside fender wall. So why does Ford charge a grand to pull the ac works? Geez I'd love to know exactly what fails.
Where is the factory vacuum resevoir
The factory vacuum reservoir is hidden inside wheel well. Its a big pain in @$$ to access. You’ll have to remove the front wheel and almost disassemble the dash. No thank you!!
I recently replaced mines on my 2011 E350 which is located by the battery tray
Stupid engineering, If stuck in defrost: EASY/ QUICK SOLUTION: ABANDON factory reservoir/ check valve, grab vacuum line under hood near OIL FILL, (where it changes from RED to BLACK) pull line loose from firewall (pull hard, it will pop loose from connection in engine compartment) under passenger foot well firewall into the cab and push new line thru to engine, grab (w/ wire hook) and connect by OIL FILL. Install new check and reservoir UNDER DASH on passenger side.