I watched every video I could find about this issue and this one is clearly the best. The method used and the clear instructions given made this job super easy. Thank You So Much!
i guess Im asking randomly but does anybody know of a method to get back into an instagram account? I was stupid lost the login password. I love any help you can give me!
@Dante Valentin i really appreciate your reply. I found the site on google and Im in the hacking process now. Seems to take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
Hey, I did this modification on my 2006 E-250 today. It worked PERFECTLY! I was quoted $1200 USD to do this repair. Instead, I spent $65 on parts and 45 minutes of my time to do it myself. This modification is a perfect example of thinking outside the box!
i just want to say thank you for your video. I'm a mechanic and look on here from time to time looking for good ideas to make my job easier. The way you took the bolts out to fit the line through makes this job look so clean and almost factory looking.
I stumbled upon a gem of a TH-cam video titled "Ford Econoline AC Heat Defrost Acceleration Fix". Let me tell you, it's nothing short of a miracle worker! From start to finish, this tutorial guides you through the repair process with unparalleled clarity and precision. The step-by-step instructions are incredibly easy to follow, making the repair job feel like a breeze. What truly sets this institution apart is its attention to detail. Every part, tool, and technique is explained thoroughly, leaving no room for guesswork. I couldn't believe how smoothly the repair process went! Thanks to this video, what could have been a nightmare turned out to be one of the most straightforward repair jobs I've ever done. I can't thank the creator of this TH-cam video enough. Their dedication to simplifying this complex task and empowering us TH-cam viewers is commendable. This video is a lifesaver if you're facing a vehicle repair challenge. Trust me, you won't be disappointed!
THANK YOU! Ford said $2400 to fix and I watched this video, followed the steps, and everything is blowing cold again! I appreciate you sharing. I have a 2011 Ford E-350 15 passenger.
This is by far the best and most comprehensive video for this issue. I sorted through sooo many ones with some good info, some bad, and some silly. This one was the one I used to know which parts to order and how to properly install them. The fix worked perfectly and saved us quite a bit of money. This guy appreciates it!
This is one of, if not the best instructional video I’ve found on TH-cam. I was able to “rescue” the A/C dashboard vents on my 2000 E150 in short order after watching your video about 6 times. Thank you so much for posting.
had to replace canister in 2013 Ford E350 van. This is still the best video out there on how to do it. Note: This van doesn't have the port door on the dash. If there's a glove box, remove it (4 screws), and cut the BLACK line, not too high, or it's difficult to work with. The tubing was very small and wouldn't fit the connector, so I put it in the new 12" tubing and sealed it with liquid electrical tape. Even before I did that, the vacuum was good. I kept the protection on the line that I brought from the engine and was able to tuck the canister behind the glove box and put back the doghouse. No need to remove the bolt (which I'v done with past installs). God bless.
This video has a lot of good information. I just completed this fix on 3 of my vans. I use a slightly different method that does not require drilling any holes, or removing the doghouse. You can pull the grommet and vacuum line out of the firewall from the passenger side. I then fished a wire coat hanger through the hole and up along the inside of the fender. I use a claw pick up tool to guide the hanger away from the fender. You can now separate the vacuum line under the hood, leaving the connector on the left side tubing, and pull the check valve and tubing out. Now slide the connector over the hanger on the inside of the van, and tape it to the hanger. Pull the hanger and the vacuum line through the firewall. You have now relocated the check valve to the passenger side of the firewall without drilling any holes. Use silicone to plug the hole and follow this video to complete the installation.
@@josephramos6328 Yes, I used the replacement accumulator, I just rerouted the tubing back through the firewall, with the check valve on the passenger side.
Had the exact same problem on my 2006 ford e150 cargo van it started like a year ago but it wasn’t as bad I mean I could live with it but this summer heat here in okc is awful and my van started having this problem more and more often it used to be only when accelerating hard to go into highway but this year it was doing it on regular roads and 3 seconds with out ac on a cargo van in this heat! It was like a oven and glad I found this video while searching what the problem was and I ordered the hose, valve, and reservoir and since I watched this vedeo about 10 times while waiting on parts to arrive, when they arrived I knew exactly what had to be done and manage to get it done in 10 minutes and only spent $40 bucks, thanks man I appreciate these kind of videos saved me tons of cash I really don’t have! I’ve watched other videos and they do the same but they leave everything hanging on the passenger feet and the way you did it seems professional to me I love it
You bypass surgery instruction are great. Thanks. One comment is I pulled the original vacuum line from the firewall and fed the replacement hose though that same hole, then sealed it, instead of opening the doghouse. I used a rigid hose and it came right up behind the battery. But without your video I wouldn't have figured this out. Again, thank you
"06 E350 fixed in 20 mins for about $45 with this method! I had been putting off the repair because I didn't want to remove the dash and suffered through last Summer with this problem. Thanks so much NJOA. This is the only video you need if anyone has this problem. All my parts came from O'Reilly, ordered last night, picked up this morning.
Just fixed my vacuum problem following your method. Test ran it up and down the highway and had constant AC air through the vents. Only thing I has trouble with was finding a place to mount the new tank. My van has a glove box so that there is not much room behind it. I had to pull out my creative side. Thanks for the instructions.
I did this fix today on my e250. Some of the symptoms going in: No A/C fan on during acceleration. Then A/C only goes with fan on high. Then no fan at all to the front vents. Started with the first symptom slowly moved to the next. Your fix works on all of them.
Just took my first long road trip in my 2007 E250 and experienced this problem in the hills on Kentucky. I'll by trying this repair soon -- thanks for the video!
Best video ever. I ordered the parts on Amazon. I think they were $53. My configuration under the dashboard was a little different than what was in the video. My truck is it 2019 F350 is pretty much the same. Very easy and simple repair, it took me a total of about 40 minutes from start to finish the AC works perfect now. Thank you so so much.!!!
I enjoyed your video. I have 2009 e350. Losing my ac when driving 2013. I took it to the ford dealership. They could not fix it. It has been this way until I seen your video. Great clear presentation. Thank you John
I have looked and looked, and this was PERFECT for me. We'll almost. Where my red and black vacuum lines meet by the oil fill cap, there was a T junction and a third vacuum line running elsewhere. I had to chase that and rerout the line and the T to be accessible inside the doghouse, but the rest was perfect! Glad I bought the Universal vacuum line connector kit, because I needed a couple of extra ends due to the added line I had to route. For the record, I have a 2005 E450 cut away with a shuttle bus body.
It is clearly the best video I agree ..many people have no natural talent to explain thigs.....and the BLAST you are describing here is exactly what I have in my rv..and I think nobody else mentioned it. ...not consistent blowing and that makes now such a sense. I appreciate your time putting in this video that helps so many people like me.
After a couple of years of the a/c in my 2006 E-350 van slowing fading to nothing, I called on Dr. Google and Dr. TH-cam. Thankfully, I found your video before another Florida summer. The video was comprehensive and very easy to follow. The link to Amazon for the parts was a great time saver and right on target. Forty bucks worth of parts, an easy hour following the installation steps, and I have cold air and hot defrost, as Nature intended. I can't thank you enough for your time and effort in making this solution available. Great job!
Excellent video bro. Right to the point. Clear and concise. Nothing extra or confusing. I can follow this easily.Good stuff! I saw a few other videos on this and so far this is the best. Theres also an emergency quick fix of opening access door on top of dash and disconnecting arm from front vent actuator and manually just pushing the rod in. When rod is pushed in the air comes out of the front vents. Thats just good to know in case of an emergency on a hot day when someone doesnt have that new part on hand yet. Thanks for the no bs video!
Victory over my a/c, thanks to this excellent video! I would, however, like to add the following information for anyone else about to undertake this job: 1) Don't hesitate to undertake this fix if your a/c is *always* stuck on defrost, not just when the van is accelerating, as it is in this video. 2) If you're paying close attention, you'll notice the fellow in this video never uses the vacuum hose connectors he bought. You don't need to either - I didn't; I did what he did instead. Worked great. 3) The clips that hold the doghouse down are a PITA. The ones on the bottom need to be rotated, not just pulled back. The doghouse in my van is carpeted, so I couldn't see the mechanism to know this without having to watch another TH-cam video about how to get the doghouse back. 4) The accumulator is not easy to mount, because the area it's going into doesn't let it sit flush in there. Instead of just placing it flush against the bracket and trying to thread the bolt through both it and the bracket at once, you'll have a much easier time if you thread it about 80% through the accumulator before you try to thread it through the bracket. Have fun!
This was a fantastic video and your two cents was greatly appreciated... I had it stuck on Vent because the hose to the accumulator had deteriorated can't even imagine doing the way Ford says to... thats crazy...
I just finished the fix. Thank you. The hardest part was taking the engine cover (dog house) off. I think that it had never been removed on my 14 year old van. It took an hour of prying and tapping to get it loose. I sprayed the seal area with silicone spray before reinstalling the cover.
Just purchased a 2006 E150 and air was only blowing out the floor and defrost. After watching this video I went ahead and ordered the parts from Amazon (about $40) and 30 minutes later all my controls are working as they should and there’s no change during acceleration. Great find, thank you.
Thank You so much for putting this together. You make it look easy and doable for someone who is new to such repairs. Thanks to you, I’m ready to give this a go with confidence. Thank you!
Thanks for sharing this information! It probably saved me $1000 and removed the fright of dismantling the dashboard. I got the parts as described from Amazon…$50. The instructions were simple and easy to follow. I should have fixed this over a year ago. We now have AC in the cabin!
Really appreciate this! It worked beautifully on my E350 van. The elegant mounting idea (bolting the vacuum reservoir into the bracket) couldn’t work as my van is configured a little differently. I used double sided tape to stick the vacuum reservoir/accumulator to the firewall (i.e. out of the way). The connectors that attach the skinny lines to the check valve can also be found as fuel line connectors.
As Curtis said above this is the most straight forward video that Ive seen on this issue and how to order the parts needed and then to fix the problem. Well done!!!!!!!!!!
I absolutely love this video! It is so simple! No dumb music, kids, pets, or unnecessary drilling.! Just straight to the point! Absolutely brilliant! Thank you!
Thanks for this video--I think I watched all of them before doing the bypass on my 2004 E350 (where something had failed entirely and left me with air blowing out of the defroster vents only). Yours definitely cherry picked the best parts of the various fixes and put it all into one clear and easy-to-follow video, which is what all of us E-Series owners really needed! The only thing I would add is that it is possible to do this repair without buying the vacuum line connectors (just reuse the pieces from the red line and black line where they connect under the hood, near the cowl) and only about 2 inches of rubber vacuum line. I pulled enough of the red line through the doghouse bolt hole that when I connected it to the check valve, the check valve could be located just a couple of inches to the right (when looking toward the front of the van) of the vacuum reservoir, which I bolted in the same location as you did. I cut the black line pretty much flush with the grommet where it comes through the firewall into the passenger compartment, so I'd have plenty of that line to work with. Then routed the black line up to the check valve, near the vacuum reservoir. There was plenty of slack to do this. Then I reused the vacuum connector from the other end of the black line (under the hood) to connect the black line directly to the check valve, without any other connectors or bits of rubber hose. After that, all I needed was about 2 inches of rubber hose to connect the vacuum reservoir to the check valve. Nice clean install and everything is tucked well up and away, with no chance of anything falling down into the passenger footwell.
Great repair video! I just bought a 2016 Ford E350 small shuttle bus, which is going to be my new travel vehicle and it has the same vacuum heating system and with the same issue. I can hear the blower motor working but no air comes out the vents. Thank you so much for this money and time saving fix. Funny but my old 1986 B250 Dodge travel van also has a vacuum heating system just like the ford. Well, get out there and, get lost and get found. 🚌
October 8th, 2024, i just followed your instructions step by step. FINALLY, it's all working again. Parts are now $70, but it's still a far cry from $1000. Thank you , Thank you..
Patrick, my name is William. I have a 2013 high top 250 I just watched your video and I did exactly what you did and it turned out perfect body I appreciate you. I moved from Baltimore, Maryland in 2020. Living in my Van and I ended up in Panama City, Florida as of President still living in my Van also renogy.
Perfect video. I have a 2003 BT Cruiser RV which has the E-350 cab. The video was easy to understand, made the repair very quick! Works great. My only difference, I ordered the vacuum connectors but did not need them. Was able to use what was on the vehicle. Thanks for the great video! I'm back on the road...cooling
I agree that this was the easiest video to follow. I ran another vacuum line through the fender to avoid having to clean out my van to open the doghouse. There was a plastic plug in just the right spot. I drilled it out and ran the line through my new grommet. I used about five feet of vacuum line and had to buy one connector. Everything is COOL and groovy!
Raymond thank you so much for helping me and everyone locate and solve the issue. In my particular case the check valve that you mentioned Is behind a piece of plastic. I took a small hacksaw blade and cut the plastic away and pulled the check valve through completely. I think the check valve was connected by a small hose to the vacuum canister. That little tiny piece of hose was completely dry rotted. I temporarily put a piece of electrical tape over that connection and the blendoors worked perfectly. Thank you Again.
I can't thank you enough. Ford clearly did this intentionally, and it is my pleasure that we get to screw them back and tell them to shove that repair bill where it belongs. I saw a video where they had to remove the dash, remove the coolant, evacuate the AC refrigerant/remove the evaporator core and blower, and finally ...remove the heater core. Ford...Really??? You rock Sir!
@@NewJerseyOutdoorAdventures I am reporting back that this fix worked perfectly for me. If you get the valve that Patrick specifies, it should work. I am replacing an aftermarket valve that did NOT work, that someone installed before I got ahold of this 2013 E-350. It seems that the Dorman replacement ( and whatever this valve is) will not work, judging by the reviews for that valve. I believe that it is because they need a higher vacuum to operate correctly? It could also be that my valve was faulty. In any event, whoever did this mod was clever. They routed the vacuum line through a plastic cover in the firewall, just below the glovebox. Patrick, I believe that your E-350 Over Lander conversion is the best that I have seen. I watched the video where you showcase all that you did, and it inspires me. I have a Thor E-350 High Top van and if I can save up enough money, I will do a similar conversion (it won't likely hold a candle to yours, but it should still be cool). Mine has the awesome Windsor 5.4L 2V motor in it, and I did a small mod to the exhaust - I did a "Cat Back" on it and the Magnaflow aftermarket design really seems to have given it power that was not there before. While I have never had it on a dyno, I would estimate that she gained at least 20 horsepower. Magnaflow fixed a restriction at the Y Pipe, that was present in the Ford OEM version. Heat is no issue for me since I built my own custom fan shroud, and stuck 2 big electric fans in place of the original, mechanical fan. I have towed around 5,000 lbs in brutal Texas heat at 110 F and she stays below 220 F at all times, mostly staying below 210 F. Even White Sands, NM could not cause her to overheat and that steep grade heading out of that place northward seems neverending. Not towing, she rarely breaks 200 F, even running the AC in 100 F plus heat. The OG mechanical fan would approach 210 F...not even towing. I can take a little extra power and get rid of the heat. My mod is not groundbreaking, but it is at least a start.
Great video! I have a 2010 E350 and the dashboard situation is a bit different from yours. I ended up routing the engine vacuum line through almost the same location, but instead of removing one of the bracket bolts, mine already had some carpet fastener plug holes drilled into the vertical wall of the engine housing. I just pushed out the most rearward carpet plug receiver and then punctured the insulation like you did to route in the red engine vacuum line. Made for a nice clean routing for the vacuum line through the carpet plug hole. After making all the line connections, I just mounted the new reservoir box up high on the far right side on the plastic triim panel below the glovebox using velcro sticky tape for easy removal in the future. To do this, I found it necessary to remove the "L" shaped mounting tang on the new box with a hacksaw so the box would mount flush to the inside passenger trim panel. Everything tucked up nicely and out of the way of passenger feet. Thanks for the video!
When looking for the vaccum lines coming down, I found two coming from a connector of some type. Key is not to cut the line to the actuator, which was clear/white in my case. It was black that needed the cut and the new accumulator goes to the up line. Worked out great and a very quick job - about 20 minutes. I opted to drill a small hole through the firewall (helps to do a pilot hole else the drill will waiver. Finished with a .213" drill bit as the final vacuum hole.
Thank you for the valuable information! Worked like a charm. Repair shop basically said they would have to take the dash out and that still wouldn’t have fixed the problem.
Fabulous video! I fixed my 2006 E150 Cargo work truck with 80,000 miles for $68.00. I thought I could do it all with the leftover parts under the hood, but in the end I did need the package of vacuum fittings in your video on the right with the products. Thank you!
Thanx for such a perfectly easy to follow video. I have a 2005 Gulfstream RV based on a E-450 chassis. Followed the directions and for less than $45 it was fixed within 25 minutes vs the $$$$$$ Ford wanted. (I did first put the ac valve in backwards which didn't work of course but figured that out quickly). Anyway, fantastic video and the first beer is on me!!!
Awesome. I spent $1200 some 8 years ago to have this problem fixed on my E350. Marginal improvement, but it gradually came back until it was unusable. I had no desire to spend that money to no avail again, so I tried this. For $50 plus a $30 vacuum gauge, my air is blowing cold again, no matter how much I accelerate. Thanks to you for your clarity of exposition, and to others who gave you material to work from. (And thank you for keeping the camera still!)
I bought the reservoir from Advance Auto and a check valve. I drilled a hole instead of using a screw hole, and used one of the old fittings as a grommet for the red engine hose. Also some black electrical tape to cover the hole where the hose came through from old reservoir. I just pulled the hose out, and it was long enough to reach the engine hose. I like that you bought a tank instead of the home-made route.
Test drive is forthcoming for the 2013 e-150 fix ... Slightly different than some & I have high hopes come Monday ... You & I just saved a grand & I assure you that the shop didn't wanna do it ! Thanks Heaps !
Terrific video, thanks for the solid assist. My '97 e-150 has comfortable passengers again! Will point out that I ordered 1/8" tube and what I got was too small for this application. Package doesn't say whether 1/8" ID or OD, but must be OD. The connections to/from the bypass valve are 1/8" ID. Local parts house has rolls of bulk tube and I took the male-end parts up there, so was able to confirm fitment before we cut a few feet off the roll. Lesson learned. Otherwise, very clear instructions in this video and a tremendous resource. Well done and Thanks!
Don't remember if I posted yet or not but many many, many, many THANKS! Watched your video about a month ago and did this repair just as you showed (clearest and most concise directions on youtube), that being said my drive from Scranton PA to Gatlinburg TN and back had ice cold AC blowing in the cab the entire trip!!! Plus I saved a ton of $$$$.
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!! This video saved us so much time and money. It was easy to follow; so easy that I probably could have done it, but my husband fixed it in about 20 minutes. We didn't have time to order thru Amazon and ended up going to 5 different parts stores for all of the parts, but each one had a piece of the puzzle to get to the final outcome. No more hot air blowing out the rear a/c and even the front works better! Just WOW! Cannot thank you enough! Ours was a 2008 E150.
Thanks! I did this exact fix on my 2007 E150 and it helped a lot! It didn't completely fix the issue though, so there must still be a very small leak somewhere, but it's a lot better. Before the fix, any slight hill or load on the engine would cause the vents to switch to defrost. Now after the fix, it stays on whatever vent option I select unless I'm driving up a big hill loading the engine constantly for a long time, then it eventually switches back to defrost, but it immediately returns to normal as soon as the load decreases.
I'm in this same boat. I did the repair two summers ago and now the issue is back and slightly worse than the first time I repaired. I'm reluctant to dig into right now with the heat we're currently experiencing in Arizona. I'm very confused as to how this issue is resurfacing so quickly. 166k views. Great video. Bad original design.
What a perfect solution. It worked beautifully. I replaced the fan motor and resistor while I was at it. An hour or so and $120 vs $1400 quote from the shop. Thank you!
Watch your video a couple times and I finally did this fix myself to a 2004 e450 motorhome. Your directions were very easy to follow. you really do have the best video on TH-cam for this. Thank you for taking the time to record it
Great video. I have a 94 E150 and the process is slightly different, as there is no bracket that you can unbolt to let the vacuum hose in to the cab. Rather, on the driver side there’s a hose that goes in to the cab already, so you can route the line through that hole, run it across to the passenger side using the extra hose you bought, and then continue the process as in the video. Thank you!
Thank you...Thank you so much. I had this problem and I was able to fix it today with your video. Very easy to follow and my mechanic could not figure out the issue. Your video is the only one I was able to find. Keep it up.
Best and most instructional video on TH-cam on this issue. Thank you for taking the time out of your day to post this. Will be doing this very soon on a couple of vans in my fleet.
😁 The gift that keeps on giving -- three year old post that exactly fixed my issue without the 6hr tear out. Thanks Patrick, GREAT vid. The only thing that wasn't crystal clear is *which* vacuum line to snip in the bypass at the far end of the passenger footwell. You mentioned the "black" tube but the video wasn't entirely clear was it way the hell up in the footwell and fuzzy ... (I did verify on another TH-cam vid that the black tube was the right one ...) Anyway, yours was by far the most elegant and effective solution. Thanks for posting!! -- Nat 🤩
I should add one more thing: the symptoms of my van were that the AC was blowing all the time out of the defrost vents - not as you describe only under load going up hill. Sounds like your situation my have been a system *failing* and mine definitely a system that failed completely. So your fix, fixed complete loss of vacuum to the reservoir which, thinking now, of course it would. Thanks again! Nat
@@NewJerseyOutdoorAdventures I can only imagine. The fix felt a little improbable going in -- I kept thinking what happens if it doesn't fix it, but it did completely. Loved that the new reservoir fits neatly under the passenger footwell cowling. Thanks again!
I watched several videos and thought this was the best, been without air due to cutting out during acceleration for years. knew about this fix but thought it would be too much trouble. This summer heat changed my mind. Took 20 minutes to do and test, works great. Thanks
Been a ford tech for 30 years, As long as you don't have a vacuum leak, you can add the new check valve at the connection under the hood. just block off the bottom nipple that would have went to the vacuum reservoir. 5 minute fix. great video though. thinking outside the box. 2 thumbs up!
From under the hood, when you disconnect the tube that goes to the reservoir (the black one which goes and disappears on the left side - in the video at 2:12 is being abandoned), that tube can be jiggled and pulled out to be used to connect to the new reservoir. The red one gets pulled via the dog house. Also the tube at the passenger side which goes to the reservoir can also be jiggled and pulled out. In this video it is being cut 5:08. When you jiggled and pull this tube out, the check valve gets removed from the vacuum reservoir and can be reused. No need to buy one or buy any extra tubing, just have to buy the reservoir. To summarize, disconnect the tube under the hood - red in color - pull it via the dog house and route it thru the hole of the bolt. Jiggle the the other tube under the hood and pull it out to use it to connect to the new reservoir. On the passenger side the black tube coming from the top of the dashboard going to the old reservoir via the body of the van via a plastic washer, pull that washer out and jiggle and pull it out, the end of that tube will have the check valve from the reservoir. Attach that tube with the check valve to the red tube from the dog hose. The other tube can be use to attach the check valve to the new reservoir. Hope this helps.
@@bborges79 Its the tube that goes to the left tire side and disappears. I just jiggled it to get it off the reservoir. The other tube to jiggle out is on the passenger side inside of the van, right at the floor going to the reservoir via a white washer thru the body of the van - attached to the body of the van. To figure out which tube this is, trace it from the top of the dashboard by removing that cover. The check valve is attached to this tube, it should come off easily once that washer is loose. Hope this helps. Good luck. I did this some time back - 10 months ago. Trying to remember. Take care.
Thank you Sir ! I just did my 2005 E350 super duty Cambria RV. Now it works great ! You saved me a lot of money, the dealer gave me a $1500 - $1800 estimated price to fix
Thanks for the video! I did everything how you did it but instead of going through that hole where the bolt was for the vacuum line, I drilled a new on by the reservoir and used the grommet from the original side in that location. A/C works like a charm now!
Great video ! Another video takes the vacuum line from under hood through the fender panel using a fish tape or coat hanger. Much easier than removing dog house and drilling.
thanks for such a clear view video with great steady camera angles and good lighting and a very understandable explanation of the steps you did! i will be trying this on my e250 soon!
Awesome instructional video! Thank you so much. Solved my AC problem of cold air only coming out of the defrost. Saved me a ton of money and done in less than an hour, and I’m not mechanically inclined! Like you said, the hardest part was reattaching the doghouse. Your solution worked perfectly. Only thing I did different was I did not cut the vacuum hose under the passenger footwell. Instead I tugged on that vacuum hose to disconnect it from the stock check valve/accumulator behind the firewall and then was able to use the existing connector to attach it to the new check valve. I have a 2010 RV - Ford E450 Heavy Duty Econoline.
2011 E250 has a glove compartment. So I taped the accumulator to the sheet metal on the right side just under where the vacuum line goes up through the dash. Thanks for the video!
Worked like a champ! Only one black hose under the rt. side dash on my E350 cargo van, so I took the chance, and struck gold! Why I waited so long to fix, I'll never know, but I was guessing it was a vacuum leak, not a faulty accumulator or check valve. No matter, summer's almost over, but it can still get hot, in SoCal, so, much thanks!
Hey Patrick, I saw your van parked outside the Hershey RV show. Each time I saw it (and before I made the connection to your TH-cam channel), I thought to myself - and said to my wife - that is just a serious piece of equipment!!
I just wanted to tell you thank you again. My vac line that runs under the cowl had disintegrated and I had to run all the way to the valve but that’s it. Thank you again so much and I am enjoying the fix.
Dude! That video is awesome. Worked like a charm. I can't tell you how many other videos I've watched that just ended up circling around it. Thanks....
Worked like a charm. Took about 20 min total to fix it. The shop wanted $2200. I did it for about $50 in parts. The only difference I saw was the red vacuum line in mine was just a normal black vacuum line for me. Otherwise, all was the same. 2006 Ford e250
Great video bud! Purchased exactly what you linked and followed exactly as you and everything was perfect. Only thing that wasnt needed was the fittings but hey, you never know when they'll be needed! Thanks again for the video!
I can't find the links you mentioned. This is exactly the fix I need to do and have so much anxiety about ordering the wrong stuff. Lol. I have almost no experience with fixing cars.
The accumulater fix works like a champ...and thanks so much!!! Just want to mention to make sure there's no twists or kinks in the tubing or else the air flow still won't work right, even if the AC no longer cuts out. AGAIN - THANKS SO MUCH FOR THE TIME AND EFFORT YOU TOOK TO POST YOUR VIDEO...(you're a People's Pro...!!!)...⚡👍🥴⚡
Great video. Exactly the issue I have been having for a couple of years and now ready to deal with the nuisance. Will bookmark so I can do the repair after getting parts.
Above the control on the dash is a football size panel. Pop that panel up and see the actuator. Remove the vacuum tube from the actuator and Tie the actuator for a temp fix. It's the actuator on the right. Then do this man's fix when you have time.
![ประสบการณ์ จ้าง Developer ที่ผมจะไม่มีวันลืม [ภาค2]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/pZbsSDRrmXA/mqdefault.jpg)
I watched every video I could find about this issue and this one is clearly the best.
The method used and the clear instructions given made this job super easy. Thank You So Much!
You are welcome
i guess Im asking randomly but does anybody know of a method to get back into an instagram account?
I was stupid lost the login password. I love any help you can give me!
@Cain Rudy Instablaster ;)
@Dante Valentin i really appreciate your reply. I found the site on google and Im in the hacking process now.
Seems to take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Dante Valentin it did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. I'm so happy!
Thank you so much you really help me out !
Hey, I did this modification on my 2006 E-250 today. It worked PERFECTLY! I was quoted $1200 USD to do this repair. Instead, I spent $65 on parts and 45 minutes of my time to do it myself. This modification is a perfect example of thinking outside the box!
i just want to say thank you for your video. I'm a mechanic and look on here from time to time looking for good ideas to make my job easier. The way you took the bolts out to fit the line through makes this job look so clean and almost factory looking.
Glad to help
I stumbled upon a gem of a TH-cam video titled "Ford Econoline AC Heat Defrost Acceleration Fix". Let me tell you, it's nothing short of a miracle worker!
From start to finish, this tutorial guides you through the repair process with unparalleled clarity and precision. The step-by-step instructions are incredibly easy to follow, making the repair job feel like a breeze.
What truly sets this institution apart is its attention to detail. Every part, tool, and technique is explained thoroughly, leaving no room for guesswork.
I couldn't believe how smoothly the repair process went! Thanks to this video, what could have been a nightmare turned out to be one of the most straightforward repair jobs I've ever done.
I can't thank the creator of this TH-cam video enough. Their dedication to simplifying this complex task and empowering us TH-cam viewers is commendable. This video is a lifesaver if you're facing a vehicle repair challenge. Trust me, you won't be disappointed!
THANK YOU!
Ford said $2400 to fix and I watched this video, followed the steps, and everything is blowing cold again!
I appreciate you sharing.
I have a 2011 Ford E-350 15 passenger.
Glad it helped!
This is by far the best and most comprehensive video for this issue. I sorted through sooo many ones with some good info, some bad, and some silly. This one was the one I used to know which parts to order and how to properly install them. The fix worked perfectly and saved us quite a bit of money. This guy appreciates it!
Glad it helped!
This is one of, if not the best instructional video I’ve found on TH-cam. I was able to “rescue” the A/C dashboard vents on my 2000 E150 in short order after watching your video about 6 times. Thank you so much for posting.
had to replace canister in 2013 Ford E350 van. This is still the best video out there on how to do it. Note: This van doesn't have the port door on the dash. If there's a glove box, remove it (4 screws), and cut the BLACK line, not too high, or it's difficult to work with. The tubing was very small and wouldn't fit the connector, so I put it in the new 12" tubing and sealed it with liquid electrical tape. Even before I did that, the vacuum was good. I kept the protection on the line that I brought from the engine and was able to tuck the canister behind the glove box and put back the doghouse. No need to remove the bolt (which I'v done with past installs). God bless.
This video has a lot of good information. I just completed this fix on 3 of my vans. I use a slightly different method that does not require drilling any holes, or removing the doghouse. You can pull the grommet and vacuum line out of the firewall from the passenger side. I then fished a wire coat hanger through the hole and up along the inside of the fender. I use a claw pick up tool to guide the hanger away from the fender. You can now separate the vacuum line under the hood, leaving the connector on the left side tubing, and pull the check valve and tubing out. Now slide the connector over the hanger on the inside of the van, and tape it to the hanger. Pull the hanger and the vacuum line through the firewall. You have now relocated the check valve to the passenger side of the firewall without drilling any holes. Use silicone to plug the hole and follow this video to complete the installation.
In your video did you find the need for the replacement accumulator?
@@josephramos6328 Yes, I used the replacement accumulator, I just rerouted the tubing back through the firewall, with the check valve on the passenger side.
Had the exact same problem on my 2006 ford e150 cargo van it started like a year ago but it wasn’t as bad I mean I could live with it but this summer heat here in okc is awful and my van started having this problem more and more often it used to be only when accelerating hard to go into highway but this year it was doing it on regular roads and 3 seconds with out ac on a cargo van in this heat! It was like a oven and glad I found this video while searching what the problem was and I ordered the hose, valve, and reservoir and since I watched this vedeo about 10 times while waiting on parts to arrive, when they arrived I knew exactly what had to be done and manage to get it done in 10 minutes and only spent $40 bucks, thanks man I appreciate these kind of videos saved me tons of cash I really don’t have! I’ve watched other videos and they do the same but they leave everything hanging on the passenger feet and the way you did it seems professional to me I love it
You bypass surgery instruction are great. Thanks. One comment is I pulled the original vacuum line from the firewall and fed the replacement hose though that same hole, then sealed it, instead of opening the doghouse. I used a rigid hose and it came right up behind the battery. But without your video I wouldn't have figured this out. Again, thank you
Oh wow, awesome idea
Clearest video I've seen on this fix. Thanks. 80 something oldtimer.
Glad it helped
The best of the best!!! This guy sounds like Ray Romano...I felt like Ray Romano was showing me a little auto repair!!!
Hello 👋
Ray Romano, yes! That is part of what this video enjoyable to watch. Clear, concise information.
"06 E350 fixed in 20 mins for about $45 with this method! I had been putting off the repair because I didn't want to remove the dash and suffered through last Summer with this problem. Thanks so much NJOA. This is the only video you need if anyone has this problem. All my parts came from O'Reilly, ordered last night, picked up this morning.
Thank you very much
Just fixed my vacuum problem following your method. Test ran it up and down the highway and had constant AC air through the vents.
Only thing I has trouble with was finding a place to mount the new tank. My van has a glove box so that there is not much room behind it. I had to pull out my creative side.
Thanks for the instructions.
Glad it was helpful Kent
I did this fix today on my e250. Some of the symptoms going in: No A/C fan on during acceleration. Then A/C only goes with fan on high. Then no fan at all to the front vents. Started with the first symptom slowly moved to the next. Your fix works on all of them.
Awesome glad to hear that
Just took my first long road trip in my 2007 E250 and experienced this problem in the hills on Kentucky. I'll by trying this repair soon -- thanks for the video!
Best video ever. I ordered the parts on Amazon. I think they were $53. My configuration under the dashboard was a little different than what was in the video. My truck is it 2019 F350 is pretty much the same. Very easy and simple repair, it took me a total of about 40 minutes from start to finish the AC works perfect now. Thank you so so much.!!!
Awesome
I enjoyed your video. I have 2009 e350. Losing my ac when driving 2013. I took it
to the ford dealership. They could
not fix it.
It has been this way until I seen your video.
Great clear presentation.
Thank you John
Glad it was helpful John
I have looked and looked, and this was PERFECT for me. We'll almost. Where my red and black vacuum lines meet by the oil fill cap, there was a T junction and a third vacuum line running elsewhere. I had to chase that and rerout the line and the T to be accessible inside the doghouse, but the rest was perfect! Glad I bought the Universal vacuum line connector kit, because I needed a couple of extra ends due to the added line I had to route. For the record, I have a 2005 E450 cut away with a shuttle bus body.
It is clearly the best video I agree ..many people have no natural talent to explain thigs.....and the BLAST you are describing here is exactly what I have in my rv..and I think nobody else mentioned it. ...not consistent blowing and that makes now such a sense. I appreciate your time putting in this video that helps so many people like me.
Glad it was helpful Michael
After a couple of years of the a/c in my 2006 E-350 van slowing fading to nothing, I called on Dr. Google and Dr. TH-cam. Thankfully, I found your video before another Florida summer. The video was comprehensive and very easy to follow. The link to Amazon for the parts was a great time saver and right on target. Forty bucks worth of parts, an easy hour following the installation steps, and I have cold air and hot defrost, as Nature intended. I can't thank you enough for your time and effort in making this solution available. Great job!
Awesome 👍🏽 have a great summer
Excellent video bro. Right to the point. Clear and concise. Nothing extra or confusing. I can follow this easily.Good stuff! I saw a few other videos on this and so far this is the best. Theres also an emergency quick fix of opening access door on top of dash and disconnecting arm from front vent actuator and manually just pushing the rod in. When rod is pushed in the air comes out of the front vents. Thats just good to know in case of an emergency on a hot day when someone doesnt have that new part on hand yet.
Thanks for the no bs video!
Victory over my a/c, thanks to this excellent video!
I would, however, like to add the following information for anyone else about to undertake this job:
1) Don't hesitate to undertake this fix if your a/c is *always* stuck on defrost, not just when the van is accelerating, as it is in this video.
2) If you're paying close attention, you'll notice the fellow in this video never uses the vacuum hose connectors he bought. You don't need to either - I didn't; I did what he did instead. Worked great.
3) The clips that hold the doghouse down are a PITA. The ones on the bottom need to be rotated, not just pulled back. The doghouse in my van is carpeted, so I couldn't see the mechanism to know this without having to watch another TH-cam video about how to get the doghouse back.
4) The accumulator is not easy to mount, because the area it's going into doesn't let it sit flush in there. Instead of just placing it flush against the bracket and trying to thread the bolt through both it and the bracket at once, you'll have a much easier time if you thread it about 80% through the accumulator before you try to thread it through the bracket.
Have fun!
Thank you for the additional information
This was a fantastic video and your two cents was greatly appreciated... I had it stuck on Vent because the hose to the accumulator had deteriorated can't even imagine doing the way Ford says to...
thats crazy...
I just finished the fix. Thank you. The hardest part was taking the engine cover (dog house) off. I think that it had never been removed on my 14 year old van. It took an hour of prying and tapping to get it loose. I sprayed the seal area with silicone spray before reinstalling the cover.
Just purchased a 2006 E150 and air was only blowing out the floor and defrost. After watching this video I went ahead and ordered the parts from Amazon (about $40) and 30 minutes later all my controls are working as they should and there’s no change during acceleration. Great find, thank you.
I am glad it was helpful
Thank You so much for putting this together. You make it look easy and doable for someone who is new to such repairs. Thanks to you, I’m ready to give this a go with confidence. Thank you!
Glad to help
Thanks for sharing this information! It probably saved me $1000 and removed the fright of dismantling the dashboard. I got the parts as described from Amazon…$50. The instructions were simple and easy to follow. I should have fixed this over a year ago. We now have AC in the cabin!
Glad it helped
Really appreciate this! It worked beautifully on my E350 van. The elegant mounting idea (bolting the vacuum reservoir into the bracket) couldn’t work as my van is configured a little differently. I used double sided tape to stick the vacuum reservoir/accumulator to the firewall (i.e. out of the way). The connectors that attach the skinny lines to the check valve can also be found as fuel line connectors.
Glad it was helpful. Thank you for the additional information
As Curtis said above this is the most straight forward video that Ive seen on this issue and how to order the parts needed and then to fix the problem. Well done!!!!!!!!!!
So awesome thank you 🙏🏼
I absolutely love this video! It is so simple! No dumb music, kids, pets, or unnecessary drilling.! Just straight to the point! Absolutely brilliant! Thank you!
Thanks for this video--I think I watched all of them before doing the bypass on my 2004 E350 (where something had failed entirely and left me with air blowing out of the defroster vents only). Yours definitely cherry picked the best parts of the various fixes and put it all into one clear and easy-to-follow video, which is what all of us E-Series owners really needed! The only thing I would add is that it is possible to do this repair without buying the vacuum line connectors (just reuse the pieces from the red line and black line where they connect under the hood, near the cowl) and only about 2 inches of rubber vacuum line.
I pulled enough of the red line through the doghouse bolt hole that when I connected it to the check valve, the check valve could be located just a couple of inches to the right (when looking toward the front of the van) of the vacuum reservoir, which I bolted in the same location as you did. I cut the black line pretty much flush with the grommet where it comes through the firewall into the passenger compartment, so I'd have plenty of that line to work with. Then routed the black line up to the check valve, near the vacuum reservoir. There was plenty of slack to do this. Then I reused the vacuum connector from the other end of the black line (under the hood) to connect the black line directly to the check valve, without any other connectors or bits of rubber hose. After that, all I needed was about 2 inches of rubber hose to connect the vacuum reservoir to the check valve. Nice clean install and everything is tucked well up and away, with no chance of anything falling down into the passenger footwell.
Thank you for the useful information
Great repair video! I just bought a 2016 Ford E350 small shuttle bus, which is going to be my new travel vehicle and it has the same vacuum heating system and with the same issue. I can hear the blower motor working but no air comes out the vents. Thank you so much for this money and time saving fix. Funny but my old 1986 B250 Dodge travel van also has a vacuum heating system just like the ford. Well, get out there and, get lost and get found. 🚌
Very cool!
October 8th, 2024, i just followed your instructions step by step. FINALLY, it's all working again.
Parts are now $70, but it's still a far cry from $1000.
Thank you , Thank you..
Where you get the parts from?
Patrick, my name is William. I have a 2013 high top 250 I just watched your video and I did exactly what you did and it turned out perfect body I appreciate you. I moved from Baltimore, Maryland in 2020. Living in my Van and I ended up in Panama City, Florida as of President still living in my Van also renogy.
So happy I could help. Stay safe.
Perfect video. I have a 2003 BT Cruiser RV which has the E-350 cab. The video was easy to understand, made the repair very quick! Works great. My only difference, I ordered the vacuum connectors but did not need them. Was able to use what was on the vehicle. Thanks for the great video! I'm back on the road...cooling
I followed your instructions and fixed mine in the same way. Incredibly concise and simply instructions to follow. Thank you.
Glad it helped!
I agree that this was the easiest video to follow. I ran another vacuum line through the fender to avoid having to clean out my van to open the doghouse. There was a plastic plug in just the right spot. I drilled it out and ran the line through my new grommet. I used about five feet of vacuum line and had to buy one connector. Everything is COOL and groovy!
Raymond thank you so much for helping me and everyone locate and solve the issue.
In my particular case the check valve that you mentioned Is behind a piece of plastic. I took a small hacksaw blade and cut the plastic away and pulled the check valve through completely. I think the check valve was connected by a small hose to the vacuum canister. That little tiny piece of hose was completely dry rotted. I temporarily put a piece of electrical tape over that connection and the blendoors worked perfectly. Thank you Again.
Ha Raymond
I can't thank you enough. Ford clearly did this intentionally, and it is my pleasure that we get to screw them back and tell them to shove that repair bill where it belongs. I saw a video where they had to remove the dash, remove the coolant, evacuate the AC refrigerant/remove the evaporator core and blower, and finally ...remove the heater core. Ford...Really??? You rock Sir!
Glad it was helpful
@@NewJerseyOutdoorAdventures I am reporting back that this fix worked perfectly for me. If you get the valve that Patrick specifies, it should work.
I am replacing an aftermarket valve that did NOT work, that someone installed before I got ahold of this 2013 E-350. It seems that the Dorman replacement ( and whatever this valve is) will not work, judging by the reviews for that valve. I believe that it is because they need a higher vacuum to operate correctly? It could also be that my valve was faulty.
In any event, whoever did this mod was clever. They routed the vacuum line through a plastic cover in the firewall, just below the glovebox.
Patrick, I believe that your E-350 Over Lander conversion is the best that I have seen. I watched the video where you showcase all that you did, and it inspires me. I have a Thor E-350 High Top van and if I can save up enough money, I will do a similar conversion (it won't likely hold a candle to yours, but it should still be cool).
Mine has the awesome Windsor 5.4L 2V motor in it, and I did a small mod to the exhaust - I did a "Cat Back" on it and the Magnaflow aftermarket design really seems to have given it power that was not there before. While I have never had it on a dyno, I would estimate that she gained at least 20 horsepower. Magnaflow fixed a restriction at the Y Pipe, that was present in the Ford OEM version.
Heat is no issue for me since I built my own custom fan shroud, and stuck 2 big electric fans in place of the original, mechanical fan. I have towed around 5,000 lbs in brutal Texas heat at 110 F and she stays below 220 F at all times, mostly staying below 210 F. Even White Sands, NM could not cause her to overheat and that steep grade heading out of that place northward seems neverending. Not towing, she rarely breaks 200 F, even running the AC in 100 F plus heat. The OG mechanical fan would approach 210 F...not even towing.
I can take a little extra power and get rid of the heat. My mod is not groundbreaking, but it is at least a start.
Great video! I have a 2010 E350 and the dashboard situation is a bit different from yours. I ended up routing the engine vacuum line through almost the same location, but instead of removing one of the bracket bolts, mine already had some carpet fastener plug holes drilled into the vertical wall of the engine housing. I just pushed out the most rearward carpet plug receiver and then punctured the insulation like you did to route in the red engine vacuum line. Made for a nice clean routing for the vacuum line through the carpet plug hole. After making all the line connections, I just mounted the new reservoir box up high on the far right side on the plastic triim panel below the glovebox using velcro sticky tape for easy removal in the future. To do this, I found it necessary to remove the "L" shaped mounting tang on the new box with a hacksaw so the box would mount flush to the inside passenger trim panel. Everything tucked up nicely and out of the way of passenger feet. Thanks for the video!
Excellent information. Viewers take note.
This was the best, easiest to follow video with a legitimate fix. Bravo, thank you.
Happy you found this
When looking for the vaccum lines coming down, I found two coming from a connector of some type. Key is not to cut the line to the actuator, which was clear/white in my case. It was black that needed the cut and the new accumulator goes to the up line. Worked out great and a very quick job - about 20 minutes. I opted to drill a small hole through the firewall (helps to do a pilot hole else the drill will waiver. Finished with a .213" drill bit as the final vacuum hole.
Thank you for the useful information
Thank you for the valuable information! Worked like a charm. Repair shop basically said they would have to take the dash out and that still wouldn’t have fixed the problem.
Glad it helped
Fabulous video! I fixed my 2006 E150 Cargo work truck with 80,000 miles for $68.00. I thought I could do it all with the leftover parts under the hood, but in the end I did need the package of vacuum fittings in your video on the right with the products. Thank you!
this is the best video for this repair….took me like 15 minutes to duplicate this in my driveway…thank you!
Glad it helped
I am on my 6th Ford E-Series.
This the BEST video EVER addressing this issue.
THANK YOU!!
I agree with you.
Great to hear!
I lost my vent power. Only floor and defroster works. I'm gonna give this a go and then update the results. Very intuitive video. E250
Glad you enjoyed it
This is the best video I've seen on fixing the E-Series A/C vent issue. The instructions were easy to follow and worked a treat !
Thanx for such a perfectly easy to follow video. I have a 2005 Gulfstream RV based on a E-450 chassis. Followed the directions and for less than $45 it was fixed within 25 minutes vs the $$$$$$ Ford wanted. (I did first put the ac valve in backwards which didn't work of course but figured that out quickly). Anyway, fantastic video and the first beer is on me!!!
Glad it helped Daniel
I too I'm about to attempt this on a 2005 e450 Coachman Concord I'm glad to know it worked thank you
Awesome. I spent $1200 some 8 years ago to have this problem fixed on my E350. Marginal improvement, but it gradually came back until it was unusable. I had no desire to spend that money to no avail again, so I tried this. For $50 plus a $30 vacuum gauge, my air is blowing cold again, no matter how much I accelerate. Thanks to you for your clarity of exposition, and to others who gave you material to work from. (And thank you for keeping the camera still!)
Glad it helped
I bought the reservoir from Advance Auto and a check valve. I drilled a hole instead of using a screw hole, and used one of the old fittings as a grommet for the red engine hose. Also some black electrical tape to cover the hole where the hose came through from old reservoir. I just pulled the hose out, and it was long enough to reach the engine hose. I like that you bought a tank instead of the home-made route.
Oh wow, nice
Test drive is forthcoming for the 2013 e-150 fix ... Slightly different than some & I have high hopes come Monday ... You & I just saved a grand & I assure you that the shop didn't wanna do it !
Thanks Heaps !
Terrific video, thanks for the solid assist. My '97 e-150 has comfortable passengers again! Will point out that I ordered 1/8" tube and what I got was too small for this application. Package doesn't say whether 1/8" ID or OD, but must be OD. The connections to/from the bypass valve are 1/8" ID. Local parts house has rolls of bulk tube and I took the male-end parts up there, so was able to confirm fitment before we cut a few feet off the roll. Lesson learned. Otherwise, very clear instructions in this video and a tremendous resource. Well done and Thanks!
Thank you for the feedback
Don't remember if I posted yet or not but many many, many, many THANKS! Watched your video about a month ago and did this repair just as you showed (clearest and most concise directions on youtube), that being said my drive from Scranton PA to Gatlinburg TN and back had ice cold AC blowing in the cab the entire trip!!! Plus I saved a ton of $$$$.
Thank you very much, glad it was helpful
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!! This video saved us so much time and money. It was easy to follow; so easy that I probably could have done it, but my husband fixed it in about 20 minutes. We didn't have time to order thru Amazon and ended up going to 5 different parts stores for all of the parts, but each one had a piece of the puzzle to get to the final outcome. No more hot air blowing out the rear a/c and even the front works better! Just WOW! Cannot thank you enough! Ours was a 2008 E150.
Thank you, glad it was helpful
Hi Patrick, foloowed your suggestion start to finish and it completely resolved the issue with my van. I appreciate your efforts!
Glad it helped
Thanks! I did this exact fix on my 2007 E150 and it helped a lot! It didn't completely fix the issue though, so there must still be a very small leak somewhere, but it's a lot better. Before the fix, any slight hill or load on the engine would cause the vents to switch to defrost. Now after the fix, it stays on whatever vent option I select unless I'm driving up a big hill loading the engine constantly for a long time, then it eventually switches back to defrost, but it immediately returns to normal as soon as the load decreases.
Glad it was helpful. Hopefully you find the other leak
I'm in this same boat. I did the repair two summers ago and now the issue is back and slightly worse than the first time I repaired. I'm reluctant to dig into right now with the heat we're currently experiencing in Arizona. I'm very confused as to how this issue is resurfacing so quickly. 166k views. Great video. Bad original design.
By far the best explanation of what I’ve been dealing with for Over 15 years In my 2000 e 450 in my motor home thank you for sharing
Glad it was helpful
What a perfect solution. It worked beautifully. I replaced the fan motor and resistor while I was at it. An hour or so and $120 vs $1400 quote from the shop. Thank you!
Glad I could help!
Watch your video a couple times and I finally did this fix myself to a 2004 e450 motorhome. Your directions were very easy to follow. you really do have the best video on TH-cam for this. Thank you for taking the time to record it
Thank you very much Doug
Great video. I have a 94 E150 and the process is slightly different, as there is no bracket that you can unbolt to let the vacuum hose in to the cab. Rather, on the driver side there’s a hose that goes in to the cab already, so you can route the line through that hole, run it across to the passenger side using the extra hose you bought, and then continue the process as in the video. Thank you!
Thank you...Thank you so much. I had this problem and I was able to fix it today with your video. Very easy to follow and my mechanic could not figure out the issue. Your video is the only one I was able to find. Keep it up.
Glad it was helpful
Absolute genius fix! Makes me wonder why Ford didn't put the vacuum reservoir under the dash like you did. Thank you so much I have my AC back!
Glad it helped
Best and most instructional video on TH-cam on this issue. Thank you for taking the time out of your day to post this. Will be doing this very soon on a couple of vans in my fleet.
Thank you very much, glad it was helpful
Out of the multiple videos I watched. You have the best solution they all worked
This retired telephone man had no trouble fixing my 2000 e-150. It was perfect! Thanks very much!!!
Just did this today. Thanks for the easy instructions. Worked like a charm. We moved to Texas so we don't want to be without working A/C!!
I am happy it helped
😁 The gift that keeps on giving -- three year old post that exactly fixed my issue without the 6hr tear out. Thanks Patrick, GREAT vid. The only thing that wasn't crystal clear is *which* vacuum line to snip in the bypass at the far end of the passenger footwell. You mentioned the "black" tube but the video wasn't entirely clear was it way the hell up in the footwell and fuzzy ... (I did verify on another TH-cam vid that the black tube was the right one ...) Anyway, yours was by far the most elegant and effective solution. Thanks for posting!! -- Nat 🤩
I should add one more thing: the symptoms of my van were that the AC was blowing all the time out of the defrost vents - not as you describe only under load going up hill. Sounds like your situation my have been a system *failing* and mine definitely a system that failed completely. So your fix, fixed complete loss of vacuum to the reservoir which, thinking now, of course it would. Thanks again! Nat
Glad it helped. It may vary year to year. This video gets a surge every year when the temperatures are the hottest
@@NewJerseyOutdoorAdventures I can only imagine. The fix felt a little improbable going in -- I kept thinking what happens if it doesn't fix it, but it did completely. Loved that the new reservoir fits neatly under the passenger footwell cowling. Thanks again!
@@natbrace220 happy to help
I watched several videos and thought this was the best, been without air due to cutting out during acceleration for years. knew about this fix but thought it would be too much trouble. This summer heat changed my mind. Took 20 minutes to do and test, works great. Thanks
Glad it helped!
Dude, THANK YOU FOR THIS!!!! I truly thank God for your video! Easiest repair I’ve ever done on my van.
So happy to help
Been a ford tech for 30 years, As long as you don't have a vacuum leak, you can add the new check valve at the connection under the hood. just block off the bottom nipple that would have went to the vacuum reservoir. 5 minute fix. great video though. thinking outside the box. 2 thumbs up!
Thanks for the feedback
From under the hood, when you disconnect the tube that goes to the reservoir (the black one which goes and disappears on the left side - in the video at 2:12 is being abandoned), that tube can be jiggled and pulled out to be used to connect to the new reservoir. The red one gets pulled via the dog house. Also the tube at the passenger side which goes to the reservoir can also be jiggled and pulled out. In this video it is being cut 5:08. When you jiggled and pull this tube out, the check valve gets removed from the vacuum reservoir and can be reused. No need to buy one or buy any extra tubing, just have to buy the reservoir. To summarize, disconnect the tube under the hood - red in color - pull it via the dog house and route it thru the hole of the bolt. Jiggle the the other tube under the hood and pull it out to use it to connect to the new reservoir. On the passenger side the black tube coming from the top of the dashboard going to the old reservoir via the body of the van via a plastic washer, pull that washer out and jiggle and pull it out, the end of that tube will have the check valve from the reservoir. Attach that tube with the check valve to the red tube from the dog hose. The other tube can be use to attach the check valve to the new reservoir. Hope this helps.
Thank you for the awesome information
Ernie, it sounds like you have a nice shortcut idea there.
BUT how do you identify the BLACK tubing to be pulled? And how hard you need to pull it?
@@bborges79 Its the tube that goes to the left tire side and disappears. I just jiggled it to get it off the reservoir. The other tube to jiggle out is on the passenger side inside of the van, right at the floor going to the reservoir via a white washer thru the body of the van - attached to the body of the van.
To figure out which tube this is, trace it from the top of the dashboard by removing that cover. The check valve is attached to this tube, it should come off easily once that washer is loose. Hope this helps. Good luck. I did this some time back - 10 months ago. Trying to remember. Take care.
Thank you Sir ! I just did my 2005 E350 super duty Cambria RV. Now it works great ! You saved me a lot of money, the dealer gave me a $1500 - $1800 estimated price to fix
Awesome news
Mucho thanks. I've got a 2014 E350 extended van and it is smokin' hot down here in Texas right now. Great fix for the future WHEN mine goes out.
Thank you 🙏🏼
Thanks for the video! I did everything how you did it but instead of going through that hole where the bolt was for the vacuum line, I drilled a new on by the reservoir and used the grommet from the original side in that location. A/C works like a charm now!
Glad it helped
Great video ! Another video takes the vacuum line from under hood through the fender panel using a fish tape or coat hanger. Much easier than removing dog house and drilling.
thanks for such a clear view video with great steady camera angles and good lighting and a very understandable explanation of the steps you did! i will be trying this on my e250 soon!
You showed and explained the whole bypass to a T. SO MUCH MORE EXPLAINED AND SHOWN THAN OTHER VIDS ❗❗Thanks a BUNCH❗❗❗
👍👍👍
Glad it helped!
Hands down, the best video on how to repair this very annoying problem, and CHEAP too!!!
This is the best fix I’ve seen on TH-cam, thanks!
Thank you very much
Awesome instructional video! Thank you so much. Solved my AC problem of cold air only coming out of the defrost. Saved me a ton of money and done in less than an hour, and I’m not mechanically inclined! Like you said, the hardest part was reattaching the doghouse. Your solution worked perfectly. Only thing I did different was I did not cut the vacuum hose under the passenger footwell. Instead I tugged on that vacuum hose to disconnect it from the stock check valve/accumulator behind the firewall and then was able to use the existing connector to attach it to the new check valve. I have a 2010 RV - Ford E450 Heavy Duty Econoline.
2011 E250 has a glove compartment. So I taped the accumulator to the sheet metal on the right side just under where the vacuum line goes up through the dash. Thanks for the video!
Great tip!
Worked like a champ! Only one black hose under the rt. side dash on my E350 cargo van, so I took the chance, and struck gold! Why I waited so long to fix, I'll never know, but I was guessing it was a vacuum leak, not a faulty accumulator or check valve. No matter, summer's almost over, but it can still get hot, in SoCal, so, much thanks!
Best fix I have seen for this problem. I just popped the cover off the dash and wire tied the unit in dash mode. Lol.
Thank you for watching
I wedged it with shims..🤣🇺🇸
He sound like Raymond, everybody loves raymond.
Ha ha
I was just thinking the same thing!!!!
@@NewJerseyOutdoorAdventures my brother and I sound like Hank Hill...by God🤣
Maybe it is 😂😂😂
BTW Great informed video 👍🏻👍🏻
That's hilarious, I was watching and was thinking "Man, he sounds just like Raymond!" Hahahaha
Hey Patrick, I saw your van parked outside the Hershey RV show. Each time I saw it (and before I made the connection to your TH-cam channel), I thought to myself - and said to my wife - that is just a serious piece of equipment!!
Oh wow, awesome. Thank you
I just wanted to tell you thank you again. My vac line that runs under the cowl had disintegrated and I had to run all the way to the valve but that’s it. Thank you again so much and I am enjoying the fix.
You are welcome Eric, I am happy it helped
Dude! That video is awesome. Worked like a charm. I can't tell you how many other videos I've watched that just ended up circling around it. Thanks....
Glad it was helpful
i dont even have an econoline but i am stuck here watching this amazing video lol. good work !!
Thank you very much
Just did this to my 99 e250 ford van and my Ac works perfect now!! Thank you so much!!!!
Glad it helped!
Worked like a charm. Took about 20 min total to fix it. The shop wanted $2200. I did it for about $50 in parts.
The only difference I saw was the red vacuum line in mine was just a normal black vacuum line for me. Otherwise, all was the same. 2006 Ford e250
Great
Best and most complete video of this repair. Thank you.
Glad it helped
Great video bud! Purchased exactly what you linked and followed exactly as you and everything was perfect. Only thing that wasnt needed was the fittings but hey, you never know when they'll be needed! Thanks again for the video!
Thank you for checking in. I am happy it helped
I can't find the links you mentioned. This is exactly the fix I need to do and have so much anxiety about ordering the wrong stuff. Lol. I have almost no experience with fixing cars.
Carl W I am not very mechanically inclined... but this was an easy fix for me!!! My problem was the air was stuck on defrost! Thank you so much!!!
Glad it helped
I followed step by step. Worked perfectly. Only difference on…the line I pulled down and connected through the doghouse was black not red (2006 E-150)
Like others have said...your video was by far the best for this issue. Thanks so much for making it!
Awesome Derek
The accumulater fix works like a champ...and thanks so much!!! Just want to mention to make sure there's no twists or kinks in the tubing or else the air flow still won't work right, even if the AC no longer cuts out. AGAIN - THANKS SO MUCH FOR THE TIME AND EFFORT YOU TOOK TO POST YOUR VIDEO...(you're a People's Pro...!!!)...⚡👍🥴⚡
Thank you. I am glad it was helpful.
Great video. Exactly the issue I have been having for a couple of years and now ready to deal with the nuisance. Will bookmark so I can do the repair after getting parts.
Thank you. Hope it works great
Above the control on the dash is a football size panel. Pop that panel up and see the actuator. Remove the vacuum tube from the actuator and Tie the actuator for a temp fix. It's the actuator on the right. Then do this man's fix when you have time.
Thank you for the Suggestion