Subaru Forester Rear Hub Wheel Bearing Assembly Removal & Replacement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ต.ค. 2024
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----I assume no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. I recommend safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond my control, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not myself.----
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I flip the rotor and screw in few thread with lug nuts and slide the brake rotor like slide hammer to get the wheel bearing out.
I'm about to give that a try. I have beat the bearing to hell and it won't loosen. Hopefully this does it.
one comment to keep some people from going off-track, who might otherwise: No Forester up through the 2018 model year (SJ generation) has an electronic parking brake, which you mention in connection with needing a scan tool. And if you do have a 2019+ Forester (SK generation), I'm sure the part # for the rear wheel bearings is a different one than you mention, because the circle diameter of the wheel lug nuts was enlarged for 2019+ models. So - for 1998-2018, don't worry about a scan tool; for 2019+, don't use the part number mentioned here.
I literally was going to crap myself because I have a 16 forester and am about to tackle hub rotor brakes repair on all 4 wheels. Thank you.
I have an 18 Forester in my bay right now with EPB.
@eric63377 so basically if someone is going to do this job by themselves, like I will be, make sure you look up what brake system your vehicle has before you just buy the scan tool. I've always gone by mr subarus steps. Finding him was a god send. I've saved so much money by doing it myself.
@@eric63377 really truly an SJ and not an SK? (look at 4th/5th digits of VIN) And not an Outback? Outbacks had EPBs starting much earlier (I think 2010).
My 18 doesn’t have one it depends on the model and trim
I'm old school - could you please include measurements in foot pounds - even though you like Nm Thanks...
In my rust prone part of the world, the rear hub assembly would literally just laugh at you, trying to get it out like that. Here, you have to be prepared to go to war to get those suckers unstuck.
I have the same car. I honestly wish either of my rear hubs were that easy. I had to take off the entire knuckle and put it in a 12 ton press with a two foot extension on the jack handle for the press and two map torches aimed at it. Needless to say , when it broke free it came out like a rocket.
Whole point of the video was bearing removal and assembly, wheres the removal? 1 sec its on the vehicle next it’s completely disassembled and the new bearing in hand. Did you press it off or did it just magically disassemble itself from the backing plate 😂 rest of the video is great but should probably not edit to the point its missing steps
It's so nice to see someone that doesn't have to deal with rust. Not so with my stuff in New England. Speed sensors just snap off here.
Yep gotta break out the air hammer to get the hub/wheel bearing off half the time
Glad it's not just me 🤣
@@02jeepwj I have to give them a good ten or so whacks with a slide hammer to get 'em off.
I preemptively buy shit that would break New England can kiss my ass😂
My wheel bearing parts list includes: new knuckle cause I can’t the bearing out, new speed sensor cause it breaking is a given, the hub itself, two of the bolts that aren’t needed to hold the hub to the knuckle. You’ll never get them out. The axle nut because you’re supposed too and I’ve flung it across the garage.
Sure it’s expensive but hernias and mental breakdowns are more expensive
Love the yard fix for this video. Really clear and straight forward. Thanks man!
67k this is hell for subaru so they need to fix this issue almost all subaru will not reach 100 miles before rear bearings huums.
You make this look easy. Actually doing an 04 Legacy rear bearing right now. Nice work!
The hub shocker he shows in a different video is worth the $100
parts failing seems to be seasonal!! or is it just me!?
@@jomangeee9180 don't say that! I don't want to be jynxed!
Always a no nonsense instruction from Mr. Subaru but the icing on the cake were the red on black SnapOn socks.
something here is not right!!!
those back bearings, are a mother to remove.
now way taping with a hammer will remove the bearing assembly.
not a chance. i have been doing this for over 15 years.
the subaru back bearing are the worst, by far of any car......
no way it went like that, do not care what anyone says
until you have removed a back bearing from a subaru
you will know exactly what i am talking about.
nice vide but i am not a believer..
Watched this video about six times. Noted the steps, and followed each as shown. The outcome was as I desired. Thanks for the video and especially for referencing the torque specs.
I'm dreading doing this to my 05 baja.... but i also dont want to pay a shop 700-800 for them to do it....
Thanks for the video!
The manual parking brake isn't just on the Base model. All Foresters up to the 2018 model had a manual parking brake. They switched to an electronic parking brake for the 2019 Forester. However, all Outbacks/Legacys 2010+ have an electronic parking brake.
If I have a 2018 forester with manual parking brake but has eyesite would I need the subaru select monitor described or no?
I prefer the manual parking brake.
I replaced all 4 of the wheel bearings, and axles on my "05" Outback wagon. It was surprisingly very easy, and I did it in my gravel driveway with conventional tools. It only took a Saturday afternoon. 👍
my '07 OB need to do it too. Are you using all OEM wheel hub bearings? I was thinking get TRQ from Amazon.
@@KLNYC I'd stay away from amazon personally.
A generous coating of anti seize on all metal mating surfaces.
Be careful with ABS sensors, currently a back order in UK for rear Subaru ABS sensors. I have been waiting for over a month for a replacement from Subaru. Subarus don't like Ebay alternatives despite what the sellers might say....lesson learned.
Sounds like a cheap knockoff. Lots of that on ebay.
So I have a 2018 forester touring with all the bells and whistles to include isight. Today Dec 30th 2022 at 77,000 miles I had both the rear hub bearings replaced at the dealership. I didn't do it myself because this vid and others said the rear electric brakes need to be put into service mode. I asked the tech at the dealership about this and he looked at me like I was crazy. He said the only thing in the hubs is the WSS (Wheel speed sensor). He even showed me the hubs and said he never heard of having to put the rear electric brakes in service mode. I literally showed hime this video and he said "Do you see any "Electric brakes back here? Your car has every feature Subaru offers." So at this point I would have felt really bad if I told him to put everything back together and I'll do the work my self. Not to mention I would have had to pay an hours worth of labor anyways. So I just let him do it. $450 in parts and $420 in labor. When I could have done it my self.
Thank you so much for commenting this!
I'm so glad to hear this. I'm about to change my rear bearing now and was stressing over that bit.
@@hannahprice781 Unless your car has a push button for the parking brake you are good to do this job your self.
As a GC8 owner, I'm kinda envious how easy the rear bearing replacement is now. I have entire sets of hub and bearing special tools...
Same here, that poor bearing installer set sitting in the corner of my garage, probably never to be used again lol
@@ma_auto Did you happen to get a copy of the rear wheel bearing supplemental guide? It recommends J-45697-9 instead of 927440000. They're about the same price, but J-45697-9 is much smaller AND works 100 times better (no more pushing the plastic alignment guide out of the bearing)
I have a 2015 Subaru Forester. Do I need the scan tool in order to service my brakes?
What year do they start having the rear electronic brakes? I have a forester 2011
What happen if you don’t set the computer in a service mode and finished the hub assembly?
I was wondering this too because I haven't seen this mentioned in the service procedure before.
I watched a few other vids too, none mentioned this. he also didn't reset it after being done
My forester has eyesight but manual handbrake. Do i need the tablet to do the wheel bearing?
Anyone able to take this apart to see what's going on with the bearings in there?
Would you be able to show us home mechanics how to change out a TPMS module on a Forester wheel? I tried to unseat my front right tire, and no matter what method I used, it wasn't gonna comply. Got tricks for this??
Great work. I have a 2014 Subaru Forester XT. I replaced both bearings with Moog. I got VSS P0500. I replaced both sensors with same lights on dash. I returned Moogs and got OEM's. With same lights and code. I disconnected batt terminals and touched together to discharged and left it over night. I plugged terminals to batt and was able to see VSS MPH on scanner with lights on dash and was able to drive it. I cleared VSS code and went back to limp mode and no VSS MPH reading. I now have a permanent code that I cannot clear with scanner that I have. I don't know if a better scanner can help me at this point. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
Man, I am not used to seeing a bearing hub come off that easily with such a dinky little hammer. Or the bolts come out with hand tools.
Replaced mine at 135000 miles. SW US coast car, so no salt.
Antisieze or hd wax protection on new mating surfaces!
I bought MOOG. HOPE IT LASTS
My 2013 Impreza got Moog bearings. They have lasted about 80k so far. The genuine ones can be found for about $150 now though.
Im guessing a better, tighter tolerance, seal in the bearing unit would help.
Salt and potholes do no favors.
Ok il give subaru that this looks alot easier than my SG!!! Wheel bearings on my SG are the ffin bane of my life 🤮🤮🤮 question for you mr subaru iv heard all the SG foresters equipped with the 15inch alloys from factory tend to chew through their wheel bearings more than other subaru models due to the extra weight of the car & wheel/tyre combination and subaru only using similar bearings to the Impreza, is this a thing or just the typical chinese whispers?
"so let's go get a little persuader" 🤣🤣 btw nice Mac ratchet right there!
Do you think it's worth fixing a 2012 Subaru Legacy with head gasket problems or should I get a new car? I have about 209,000 miles on my car.
New cars are so expensive right now I would fix it.
I’ve been looking for days for a video that replicated this same noise and issue! I have a 18 forester and you bet I’ll be taking care of that wheel bearing soon, many thanks for your video!
i think i need to do mine too. But I wanna be make sure is the rear WB.. How do you diagnose it? can I spin the wheel and use my other hand holding the shock tower and feel if there is any vibration?
I had new batteries in my techwrench and they sprung a leak. Ruined my wrench. Should have learned to remove them after the day. Or, shouldn't have swapped up from my old school clicker.
I've newly discovered Subaru service bulletin 05-70-19R (revision date 12/02/2020) which talks about new backing plates ( 26704FJ002/012 RH/LH ) being necessary to install along with new bearings. I didn't do that, but continue to think I got very good success at noise elimination. But did I create a car configuration that actually will have worse bearing durability than my car had when new? If I can get to 15 years old and 210,000 miles I'm not sure I'll mind it starting to howl again. But if I want to put in new backing plates too, I should do it pronto before anything rusts up again... Comments?
i guess my wife’s 2015 forester is different. i can NoT get the hub out. i’ve tried slide hammer , 2x4, a puller , 4 lb hammer. i even heated assembly
and will not budge a hair. 5 hours and it won’t move
i’m going to take entire right rear knuckle passably off a d bring to a machine shop.
Other videos say this is the TOUGHEST auto repair ,
Great video thanks.
I searched for a 2004 Forester rear wheel bearing replacement and got this
I just did the job. My bearing was really stuck in there. Some notes for you to consider if you are thinking about doing the job.
If the disc doesnt come off easy, borrow the screws that hold the radiator down, they fit into the disc to push the disc off the hub.
Turning the disc around and using it as a slide hammer was not enough to free the hub from the knuckle.
If its super stuck, take the parking brake shoes off, you will get better access the pound on it with a hammer.
Lastly, support the bottom if the hub with a jack or jackstand so the suspension doesnt absorb all the energy from the hammer blows.
Good luck!
Turning the disc brake around and using it as a slide hammer didnt work.
I think I might be hearing wheel bearing noise on my 2016 Crosstrek, but wonder if it could also be the prop-shaft bearing failing, no change in sound when I turn / place a load on one side or the other
Your Crosstrek has a prop?
Could be. Hate the propshaft support bearing is no longer "serviceable".
@@MrSubaru1387 thx for the reply!
I jumped off of the second story of my house with a sledge hammer Reign Of Fire style...and my Crosstrek rear bearings just started back at me...and then called me a bitch... they were rust welded to the knuckle.
I love how you skip past removing the inner two bolts that hold the assembly on which is exactly where I hit a dead end. Can't crack em loose with a ratchet and can't fit my cheater bar in there lol
Great video. I haven’t seen anyone else use a hammer on these. I was wondering if you still could. I need to invest in an impact and a torque wrench, my torque specifications were always “fuck it, it ain’t going nowhere”
@MrSubaru, im hearing noise, pretty sure its the wheel bearing. do the rears seem to go before the fronts??? bc im pretty sure its the rear driver side. Enjoy your vids, you remind me of ErictheCarGuy. he was the one i always watched and learned from when i had my old car. But since getting a Subaru, i found your channel, and been watching to learn.
Wow I spent 3 hours separating the bearing from the knuckle the other day! 🤣🤣🤣
For me it was 2 hours to get the bearing off. The celebration was cut short when we realized the assembly was still fused to the backing plate. Another hour wrestling with that. Only 65kmi. Completely unacceptable. Add that to all the other BS crap with our 17 Forester and it's our first and last subi. Don't even get me started about the cracked bellows in the exhaust that is part of a $2400 single assembly. Beer can/hose clamped the POS. Un F-ing believable for a 5 year old car.
@@mike_f Interesting comment . What other problems did you have? Didn’t understand your last comment about the “ beer can… “ Had a rear wheel bearing replaced on my 14 Forester. Don’t know why they have to fit in so tight, after all there are 4 bolts holding it already.
@@ericripley9739 air conditioner issues I had to pay for despite known condenser issues. The tailgate from hell the requires battery disconnect (not fuse pull) to reset. Semi annual passenger window failure (another different reset operation). Beer can refers to cutting a soda/beer can, wrapping the thin gauge aluminum around the bellows and using a hose clamp to hold it all together. Effectively seals off/briges the one bellow section that is cracked. The way the bellows is deformed only in one spot is an obvious production misalignment issue covered on other models but 2017 Forester owners get the shaft. They've also redesigned it to no longer use the bellows. All for the list of $2450 + labor. Probably get a custom exhaust shop to weld in a new bellows if my temp fix fails before we dump the car.
@@mike_f Can understand your frustration. Have had 2 Foresters ( 11 and 14) and now a 17 Outback. Have had a few problems but none like yours. In March had a battery problem which resulted in the tailgate not opening. ( even after getting boosted) .Checked on UTube and found how to quickly reset it. Good luck with your next car ..,( Toyota?)
Why do you use nm instead of lbf-ft?
Just had a rear bearing replaced on my 06XT. Got a shop to do it, and it didnt look like fun.
I have to do this to my XV crosstrek 2015, Any tips not in the video?
Maintenance Mode? What if I don't put it in maintenance mode? I'm not buying a $1000 OBD2 scanner.
I would love to have a publication that shows torque specs for various fasteners. I know how to do the mechanical procedures, it would be great to have something limited to torque specs.
Jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru
The dealer recommended this for my '09 Outback, but I thought that the price was on the high side. Explaining it here confirmed my suspicion.
I'm in the Upstate and need someone to find a front end noise on my 05 Forester. Do you still take work in? If so, how can i get in touch with you?
I have a 2018 Forester that is a base model without the existing roof rail system..... I know they make roof racks that fit into current mounting holes but is there a way to add this style of rails going front to rear like the one in the video? Is it the same mounting points?
Wish it was this easy 😢 living in the rust belt wheel bearings are not your friend. Air hammer usually does the trick but sometimes the torch has to come out 😈
I had one bolt that was stuck then rounded off end up cutting it drilling it then pounded it out. 2011 outback replaced axle also bearing were shot. 278k on it now.
I've seen 1a Auto use a torch, another use heat . This obviously looked like it gave you no trouble. What about in the event it doesn't come off so easy like that. Do you resort to torch ?
Would this replacement work for a 2010 Subaru Forester non turbo?
I think mine is going out on my 2011 Forester. Sounds like a growl though.
growling is bad... dogs or bearings!
@@ScottPlude that's next on my to do list...
Of course a snap on guy hits the fucking stud. They don't sell knowledge on that truck
I assume it's not intentional, but TH-cam's new description formatting seems to have made your disclaimer "-strike through-" which makes it hard to read. It also kind of makes it look like the disclaimer is no longer valid. I imagine that disclaimer was in your upload defaults that way, which probably means this is an issue on a lot of videos. Figured you might want to know!
Are those snap-on socks? 😊
Yup
MIne is an european 2017 Forester 2.0D, automatic transmision, manual parking brake and no-eyesight: Do I need the scan tool or not? BTW, Great videos. Thanks Bro.
Manual parking brake, then no.
Piece ‘o cake! We have a 2017 Forester XT Touring without Eyesight. Don’t have to worry about computer when doing this?
No Eyesight/manual parking brake, same process as shown here.
Yea my abs sensor is one with my spindle lol
There is also a updated Technical Service bulletin that states to install the updated rear backing plate with the updated wheel bearing to remedy the constant wheel bearing issue. It’s a little bit more work but definitely worth it to replace while your there anyway!
Could you elaborate on this please? Do you have the TSB number?. Have you done this procedure? Does he have the correct part number called out? Thanks for sharing.
Elaborate
The TSB# is 05-70-19R and in the bulletin it states “Unevenness of the backing plate surfaces may affect the concentricity (roundness) of the hub/bearing after torques during assembly and over time, cause the howling type sound to develop. Production changes for the backing plates for the backing plates have been implemented to optimize their mounting surface quality.” This bulletin is applied to 2014-18 forester, 12-19 Impreza, and 13-19 crosstrek”.
@@losdc5185 awesome, I've got what you've best describe as a howling noise. Slowly gaining courage to go at it on my xt. About time for sparks, probably hubs, now a backing plate and tires lol. Will look further into this.
@@losdc5185 ended up being the wheel bearing, took in for an alignment they test drove it is under warranty thank Jebus lol. Sadly here installed my tires did not balance them properly so they're still vibrating
Wonder if he is still making monthly payments on the snap on socks
Is the straw hat an osha requirement???
Thank you for the video. My 2015 forester is now out of extended warranty with 120k miles. My wife is driving most of the time now but we just took it on a little trip. I am starting to hear a bearing hum again and i believe it is the drivers side rear again. I have had 4 bearing failures on my forester so far with 2 of them being on the drivers side rear and now I am hearing that one again. Is there something that is causing the drivers side rear bearing to keep going out? The only bearing on my 2015 that is still original is the passenger side front.
At least these are easy to replace but why don’t they last longer? I never replaced a wheel bearing on my PT Cruiser with over 300K and my Mom went about 240K on hers before replacing the wheel bearings on her PT.
There is some debate online about which to buy and install for greatest longevity. I heard to try the TIMKEN ones. I just got them in today. I think they are about $96 each for the rear and are made in South Korea.
Improper torque?
@@SamSam-ih6nt all wheels lug nuts and bearing nuts torqued to spec.
Rockin' the Snap-on socks. Thanks Mr. S.
Always! Best socks in the world!
More comments, from having just successfully completed the whole job on both sides, today. (by success, I mean a good 15 mile test drive, up to high speed, observing everything quiet, tight, brakes and parking brake working well, no warning light squawks from the ABS/ESC). I'm in the PNW and my car is a '17 XT with 106,000 miles. We're not the rust belt, but probably wetter and rustier than the South. Mr. S's technique of whacking the lug studs with a hammer didn't work for me - I had broken several old studs and replaced them all just last year, so hammer-whacking just loosened up the studs from the hub. I had to hammer in a pry bar at the mating surface. Separating the backing plate from the bearing was also quite a challenge, despite being given little attention in the video. It's difficult to choose a good place for punch-hammering, and too easy to disrupt the parking brake assembly. But I seem to have gotten all my parking brake springs adjusters and levers back together correctly. Another idea I was slow to come up with, when reassembling the sandwich of suspension and backing plate to bearing, put the 4 bearing bolts into their holes as locating studs. The 2 parts don't want to align their holes otherwise. I commend MrSubaru1387 for careful noting of the sequence of doing things, and carefully mentioning torque specs.
So much easier than the bearings that have to be pressed in
Again Thanks for the video.
I love those rotating head ratchets
I'm tired and saw something I didn't really see right.
My 2018 Forester, 53k miles, had the rear right bearing go. No offroading, I do have a gravel trail down my property. Disappointing.... [Cleveland Ohio, yes road salt, yes city is ran by morons who don't care that potholes go unfilled]
always so great and detailed videos. thanks. what is needed (parts to be replaced) when replacing the rear back plate (dust cover) of the brakes on a 2009 impreza? my part list would be: dust shield itself, wheel bearing,....anything else? still not sure how the dust shield is screwed on the rear axle? thanks.
Nope, the 2 seconds between 5.58 and 6.00 not working... it's frozen to the spline which coming out and freely moving around but not separating from the bearing assembly. Starting using slide hammer but concerned something else would separate in the middle of the car rather than here. Hmmmm
Most just make a buzzing sound
Noob question here, i have a 2016 and cant get the rear hub off for the life of me, ive hit it with a hammer and cant get it loose, i dont have a slide hammer unfortunately
I'm in the same boat. I used my rotor as a slide hammer. Still didn't work. Really don't want to remove the knuckle
Working on LR hub removal, backing plate w/ e-brake assembly came off with hub. The hub is physically loose sliding in and out of the backing plate but the ebrake components are blocking its ability to come out.
2014 limited w/ manual brake and no isight etc.
Can’t figure out why my situation is completely different than any I’ve seen on TH-cam. 🤷🏻♂️
You skipped the only part I needed
I had a garage I thought I could trust do the right side rear on my 06 Outback. Turned out the guy did the whole assembly job including the hub nut with a air wrench and it only lasted 1000 miles by which time it was making concrete-mixer noises. I did the job myself and replaced every fastener as they had been wrung up way beyond spec.
Do I need an electronic scanning tool if my Forester has no Eyesight and a manual emergency brake? IOW, is an emergency brake the same thing as a "parking brake"? Thank you.
Howdy, The notes say that you didn't need the scan tool because it had a manual parking brake and no Eyesite. My Forrester has a manual parking brake but it DOES have eyesite. Do I still need the scan tool in order to do this procedure? What exactly happens when you change out the bearing that would impact the control unit? I'm assuming it has something to do with the speed sensor???? I don't have a scan tool so I'd rather not need to get one unless necessary.
Excellent video 👍 👍
I can do it the same exact way in a 18 Impreza sport hatchback right? I don’t have to disassemble the rear brakes do I?
Thanks
They socks!
You mentioned a snap on scanner to put the parking brake in service mode. Why does it need to go into service mode? Can't I just leave the parking brake off?
A true professional thanks, for latest installment... A +
Thank you, that's the most thorough explanation I've seen. I'm in the rust belt, so if I attempt this it might be a different kind or experience.
Glad to see a how to video
Just had mine removed. The mechanic lost 2,000 calories that day lol. The thing would not come out
If that took you 4+ hours, it was that simple for me as well 😀. I needed quite a bit of persuasion....
6:53 why skipped that part of how you take out and put new wheel bearing? Theres some parts who are holding it from taking out
it also can have a low jet like sound only gets louder as time goes on. I remember my 86 Ford cougar it was really loud.
not related to the video but what would cause a super stiff shifter and hard not much slop just hard to get into first and it’s pretty stiff 05 sti with about 140k miles
Is there any way to work around the electronic parking brake? Like, pull the negative terminal with the car in park and the brake not on?
That won't do anything. As long as you can wiggle the caliper off and on the rotor, you're good, but if you pry against it trying to retrack the piston and gain wiggle room, you can mess up the caliper.
@@MrSubaru1387 is it electronically disengaged? Could you directly supply it 12V to bypass?
Another excellent video. I have saved $2500 with two videos in last two weeks.