Though I love Dave's stuff for the most part, he really does tend to let little things throw off his reviews rather than focussing on the big picture. Marten does disclaim all of his stuff with the "I'm a beginner" banner tho, so It makes his remark a bit more fair. I agree entirely when it comes to actually READING the standards rather than just looking how big the components are, or if they're a nice colour, or, Oh no, that current shunt isn't shiny! thumbs down! etc.
This is amazing... 3 parts on an inexpensive multi-meter. I guess I'm not the only one to look at things a bit close and over think things. But in the end you mention something that could save someone's life. The high voltage rating is misleading. A good thumbs up for sure..... and now I know what to get and what to expect. Wait a second.... part 4? No way.... LOL What would Ohms say I wonder....
Thanks for the feedback Tony. Once the input probe sleeves are in the plastic molding it certainly feels solid. It should make for a good bench electronics meter and some low energy household measurements. Cheers, Martin.
Hi. The BS is British Standard. They are fitted to mains plugs and are only rated for 250v! The fuse holders can be replaced with the bigger type quite easily as the mounting holes are already there.
I believe the flimsy banana connectors allow stress relief on the plug, so that the connections to the board would not break, if you were to compare to a banana plug directly soldered.
Well, regarding those banana jacks: They seem quite flimsy indeed but if you look at the casing itself they also get a lot of support - stability wise - from the back casing as well as from the front part. It's not like you can move those jacks as freely when mounted as when you only have the pcb in hand...
Good point, and as I said above those jacks are captured tightly between the case halves when its assembled, so its not like theyre going to be pulled loose or anything.
Someone is bound to have said this already, but this is the Chinese version you are reviewing, there is a European version that has a lot beefier input protection. The fuses in this meter are basically what we in the UK have in our plugs, hence the BS (British Standard like our version of DIN), in fact a lot of UK plugs will have better protection as fuses here are rated 1A, 5A and 13A, not seen a 10A one in plugs but it a fuse that doesn't get used in domestic appliances. Would be interesting to see if the actually conformed to BS or if it was just BS, ha ha.
WOW, this is a GREAT review. after seing it all i decided to order the UNIT-T 61E , for my needs in electronics its superb !!!. Thank you for this great detailed review !!!! i learned a lot from it.
It actually runs off 3V internally, so the low voltage performance is a very good LDO that they used. Wonder how it will perform with a higher voltage input and with using the other functions.
Note on the Agilent the multiple vias stitching the high current tracks when they go through board, so that they are at least equally the same area in copper in the vias.
Excellent review. In my opinion the best channel for multimeters reviews. Quick question. The specs you put above on capacitance the last one says 220mF. So if it reads up to 220mF does that mean that this multimeter can read up to 220,000uF capacitance? Thanks in advance Best Regards
Just pointing out, im no engineer but even though the jacks obviously arent the best type arent they captured tightly between the plastic posts in each half of the housing when its screwed together-? I do agree though they could be a bit better even at this price point, but I think Dave Jones and everyone else make way too much fuss over the split jacks in the low price ranges, theyre only flimsy when the meter is split in half and they are unsupported - when the case is tightened together theres standoffs in each case half that sandwich the jack sleeves tightly between the case halves.
Great video as ever Martyn, I have ordered a UNI-T61E based on the first parts of the review, just waiting for it to arrive. The comment about the probe input sleeves is valid but I think with the molded plastic casing supporting the sleeves, I wouldn't think it would be too heavily flexed at the soldered points. Not too concerned about comment about de-rating of meter to Cat III as I only intend to used for electronics and up to 240V. Great meter hopefully great daily workhorse!
Truly impressive that it was still running at 2.5-3 volts. I feel it's a shame you didn't try (or chose to not include in the final video edit) measuring some capacitors and resistors when running at such low voltages, to see if it's still accurate. Would be worth exploring just to see if it would be possible for example to use two of those 3.7-4.7 li-ion batteries (google UR14500 for example) or li-ion/li-poly pouches/flat batteries
@4:00 Between the two fuse attachment there is a conduct hole. This could be a problem for safety reasons. What if the fuse gets damaged and the glass broken? Than the distance between the fuse attachment is divided by two because of the conduct hole in the middle. This might get dangerous. If you ask me, that is not a safe design. @24:05 You can see the Agilent does make a far better job here. It is definitely not recommended to use the UNI-T UT61E for high voltages. That also explains why the UNI-T's CAT III specification is reduced to 300 V for the European market.
Mjlorton. I am about to start my adventure with electronics. Could you advise me on what multimeter to buy? I was about to buy the Fluke115 then I watched your review about it missing mA. I'm going to be working on electronics mainly, not the super voltage wires that power up homes and cities. Thank you very much
Very much like the review on this meter and it is on my short list to buy along with the BM257S or BM867. Wonder if you could test the Meter Logged Data upload to the PC functions please, as several purchases complain it does not work. Records fine but the upload fails :-(
I wanted to like this meter and its 22,000 count display, but no backlight and a glaring lack of credible input protection made me settle for the UT139C, it has a back light and better input protection but only 6,000 count display - but for some that wont really matter.
Hi, Is there any way to upgrade input protection on this multimeter? Maybe by upgrading some of components, or adding som extra? If there is a way please guide me to it. Thanks
The BSxxxx No. refers to a British Standard. i.e. one set by the British Standards Institute. Of course the manufacturer may just print that on the devices with no justification.
I got confused!? Is this multimeter safe? The comment on video says no MOVs (which is bad) but afterwards you pint out a bridge that it may be the protection?!
6kA. And 250V, as marked on the front of the meter. I see no problem so long as the user is intelligent enough not to go poking high energy circuits. Note that such high energy circuits don't exist in the household or even the workplace unless you're an electrician. If you're an electrician and are stupid enough to use a meter like this on a high energy circuit, well, Darwin.
Great video, I have a Robin om422 dmm that fluctuate on zero on dc volts anywhere from 0.2 to 4.5v, it still reads dc volts ok but you have to add or subtract the initial reading on the display, anyone any idea what may be wrong with it?
I understand you feel a little out of your element so you try to err on the side of caution but in doing that you end up erring. Your conclusion on the flimsy connectors was very wrong. It can well be a very good design because the two case parts hold it very firmly and the flexible metal avoids any shocks breaking it off at the board. Your CAT doubts are similarly unfounded. And you keep saying for the price, for the price, as if it has to be bad because it's lower price. Try being objective
Don't try to guess what Dave Jones might feel about it. He's very often irrationally biased and get carried away over trivial things. If it's chinese he will hate it, if it's fluke it doesn't matter how overpriced it is he will love it. Never mind what others might say. Trust reason. Only. Maybe think about what the standards actually mean and maybe test it.. rather than surrender to prejudice. If there is an explosive surge, wouldn't the leads out of the case be the real danger... question
Well they are not all the same...mine has 3 PTC's and 2 of the 3 span a slot that is cut in the board...clearly seen at 19:19 in this vid.... th-cam.com/video/hSviVwCFPXU/w-d-xo.html
Though I love Dave's stuff for the most part, he really does tend to let little things throw off his reviews rather than focussing on the big picture. Marten does disclaim all of his stuff with the "I'm a beginner" banner tho, so It makes his remark a bit more fair. I agree entirely when it comes to actually READING the standards rather than just looking how big the components are, or if they're a nice colour, or, Oh no, that current shunt isn't shiny! thumbs down! etc.
This is amazing... 3 parts on an inexpensive multi-meter. I guess I'm not the only one to look at things a bit close and over think things. But in the end you mention something that could save someone's life. The high voltage rating is misleading. A good thumbs up for sure..... and now I know what to get and what to expect. Wait a second.... part 4? No way.... LOL What would Ohms say I wonder....
Thanks for the feedback Tony. Once the input probe sleeves are in the plastic molding it certainly feels solid. It should make for a good bench electronics meter and some low energy household measurements. Cheers, Martin.
Hi. The BS is British Standard. They are fitted to mains plugs and are only rated for 250v!
The fuse holders can be replaced with the bigger type quite easily as the mounting holes are already there.
I believe the flimsy banana connectors allow stress relief on the plug, so that the connections to the board would not break, if you were to compare to a banana plug directly soldered.
Well, regarding those banana jacks: They seem quite flimsy indeed but if you look at the casing itself they also get a lot of support - stability wise - from the back casing as well as from the front part. It's not like you can move those jacks as freely when mounted as when you only have the pcb in hand...
Good point, and as I said above those jacks are captured tightly between the case halves when its assembled, so its not like theyre going to be pulled loose or anything.
Someone is bound to have said this already, but this is the Chinese version you are reviewing, there is a European version that has a lot beefier input protection. The fuses in this meter are basically what we in the UK have in our plugs, hence the BS (British Standard like our version of DIN), in fact a lot of UK plugs will have better protection as fuses here are rated 1A, 5A and 13A, not seen a 10A one in plugs but it a fuse that doesn't get used in domestic appliances. Would be interesting to see if the actually conformed to BS or if it was just BS, ha ha.
It is TRMS and all the accuracy details are in part 1. Cheers.
Yup, I improved the DC calibration in one of my T4D's...but it's not the most stable at keeping calibration.
WOW, this is a GREAT review.
after seing it all i decided to order the UNIT-T 61E , for my needs in electronics its superb !!!.
Thank you for this great detailed review !!!! i learned a lot from it.
My pleasure, thanks for the feedback.
It actually runs off 3V internally, so the low voltage performance is a very good LDO that they used. Wonder how it will perform with a higher voltage input and with using the other functions.
WOW! That low battery performance is TRULY IMPRESSIVE!
Note on the Agilent the multiple vias stitching the high current tracks when they go through board, so that they are at least equally the same area in copper in the vias.
Excellent review. In my opinion the best channel for multimeters reviews.
Quick question. The specs you put above on capacitance the last one says 220mF. So if it reads up to 220mF does that mean that this multimeter can read up to 220,000uF capacitance?
Thanks in advance
Best Regards
I work with elect. tubes, and I got UNI-T... and I've blown it during hi voltage measurements. I have to buy a good one like fluke 179 at least.
Just pointing out, im no engineer but even though the jacks obviously arent the best type arent they captured tightly between the plastic posts in each half of the housing when its screwed together-? I do agree though they could be a bit better even at this price point, but I think Dave Jones and everyone else make way too much fuss over the split jacks in the low price ranges, theyre only flimsy when the meter is split in half and they are unsupported - when the case is tightened together theres standoffs in each case half that sandwich the jack sleeves tightly between the case halves.
Great video as ever Martyn, I have ordered a UNI-T61E based on the first parts of the review, just waiting for it to arrive. The comment about the probe input sleeves is valid but I think with the molded plastic casing supporting the sleeves, I wouldn't think it would be too heavily flexed at the soldered points. Not too concerned about comment about de-rating of meter to Cat III as I only intend to used for electronics and up to 240V. Great meter hopefully great daily workhorse!
superb set of reviews, thank you. informative and entertainingly presented.
Truly impressive that it was still running at 2.5-3 volts.
I feel it's a shame you didn't try (or chose to not include in the final video edit) measuring some capacitors and resistors when running at such low voltages, to see if it's still accurate.
Would be worth exploring just to see if it would be possible for example to use two of those 3.7-4.7 li-ion batteries (google UR14500 for example) or li-ion/li-poly pouches/flat batteries
Hi, congrats for your amazing reviews. Btw, Is there any way to improve the flimsy jacks?
The connectors are separate from the main board which IS awesome for a less cost meter.
I know!!! I think it could be the perfect candidate for a super capacitor and solar power ;-)
AF63 family is rated 6kA rupture capacity at 264V.
Marker lines usually mean serious QC. Porps to agilent.
@4:00 Between the two fuse attachment there is a conduct hole. This could be a problem for safety reasons.
What if the fuse gets damaged and the glass broken? Than the distance between the fuse attachment is divided by two because of the conduct hole in the middle. This might get dangerous.
If you ask me, that is not a safe design.
@24:05 You can see the Agilent does make a far better job here.
It is definitely not recommended to use the UNI-T UT61E for high voltages.
That also explains why the UNI-T's CAT III specification is reduced to 300 V for the European market.
there is no "glass" anywhere on this meter...just saying
Mjlorton. I am about to start my adventure with electronics. Could you advise me on what multimeter to buy? I was about to buy the Fluke115 then I watched your review about it missing mA. I'm going to be working on electronics mainly, not the super voltage wires that power up homes and cities. Thank you very much
Very much like the review on this meter and it is on my short list to buy along with the BM257S or BM867. Wonder if you could test the Meter Logged Data upload to the PC functions please, as several purchases complain it does not work. Records fine but the upload fails :-(
Fantastic reviews
I wanted to like this meter and its 22,000 count display, but no backlight and a glaring lack of credible input protection made me settle for the UT139C, it has a back light and better input protection but only 6,000 count display - but for some that wont really matter.
They're easily available in Hong Kong, hence the use in this meter. Not a huge problem to get them elsewhere.
Hi,
Is there any way to upgrade input protection on this multimeter?
Maybe by upgrading some of components, or adding som extra?
If there is a way please guide me to it.
Thanks
If you're asking these questions, then don't do it. Buy a meter that meets your needs in terms of input protection.
@@Brian-uq6jm Yeah... but think how much you would learn in the process. Education has a price... maybe its a broken meter.
You are wrong, they are PTCs fitted in the spaces marked on the PCB as PTC1 and PTC2. The spark gaps are not fitted.
So it’s good?
I would rather it used three or four AA batteries than PP3. They're more economical. Going down to 2 V on a NiMH PP3 would wreck the battery though.
Will the blast protection keep the magic smoke from escaping?
I assume it is not a TRMS meter. What is the accuracy?
The BSxxxx No. refers to a British Standard. i.e. one set by the British Standards Institute. Of course the manufacturer may just print that on the devices with no justification.
So, do you think this meter suitable for working with audio amplifiers ? Cheers.
Aren't the metering electronics, IC, and LCD designed for 2.5v?
UNI-T UT61AD how to AC voltage range bottun not oooo What will do. please tell me
I got confused!?
Is this multimeter safe?
The comment on video says no MOVs (which is bad) but afterwards you pint out a bridge that it may be the protection?!
it's not safe I burned mine Lol.
Great value. Thanks
6kA. And 250V, as marked on the front of the meter. I see no problem so long as the user is intelligent enough not to go poking high energy circuits.
Note that such high energy circuits don't exist in the household or even the workplace unless you're an electrician. If you're an electrician and are stupid enough to use a meter like this on a high energy circuit, well, Darwin.
Great video, I have a Robin om422 dmm that fluctuate on zero on dc volts anywhere from 0.2 to 4.5v, it still reads dc volts ok but you have to add or subtract the initial reading on the display, anyone any idea what may be wrong with it?
Thank you for correcting me
Great video thanks
Thanks again!
Great video.!
The chip is actually designed to operate on 3V, and as you can see, it really can. It's a shame the case was designed for 9V batteries.
I think they are not PTC they are MOV but i may be wrong
👍👍
nice video i have to say and very usefull :)
I understand you feel a little out of your element so you try to err on the side of caution but in doing that you end up erring. Your conclusion on the flimsy connectors was very wrong. It can well be a very good design because the two case parts hold it very firmly and the flexible metal avoids any shocks breaking it off at the board. Your CAT doubts are similarly unfounded.
And you keep saying for the price, for the price, as if it has to be bad because it's lower price.
Try being objective
and why did they put PTCs in that thing when there are no MOVs? They are completely useless!
so is your comment...ironic isn't it?
Cheap jacks put me off - once they break - it's a toss.
Don't try to guess what Dave Jones might feel about it. He's very often irrationally biased and get carried away over trivial things. If it's chinese he will hate it, if it's fluke it doesn't matter how overpriced it is he will love it. Never mind what others might say. Trust reason. Only.
Maybe think about what the standards actually mean and maybe test it.. rather than surrender to prejudice. If there is an explosive surge, wouldn't the leads out of the case be the real danger... question
Well they are not all the same...mine has 3 PTC's and 2 of the 3 span a slot that is cut in the board...clearly seen at 19:19 in this vid.... th-cam.com/video/hSviVwCFPXU/w-d-xo.html
MOV ON MULTIMETER ! WTF ! men please read how work MOV
RULE NO1 DO NOT BUY MULTIMETERS THAT ARE NOT CERTIFICATED NO GS NO TUV NO DVE NO THANK YOU,
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