What Is The Best Sport Bike Motorcycle Engine / Motor Oil? - Solved - (Motul 300V 4T)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 มี.ค. 2018
- I've tried a lot of oils over the years for a lot of different applications. In all I've experimented with 8-10 oils in sport bikes before finding this one. You may have a different favorite but I know this one will not disappoint you. Be sure to watch the 8500 mile review with laboratory oil analysis results. • MOTUL 300V 4T 8500 MIL...
/ monacogp
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I've got two Toyota pickup trucks with over 300k, ran on amsoil..your info after some other research has convinced me to run this in my bike. Thanks for the vid.
Amsoil is great oil. This is better. Thank you for watching and commenting.
I put Amsoil Metric in my motorcycle and it ticked really loud when it got hot. I'm talking, the brand new oil lost viscosity any time the engine got really hot during an idle situation.
The Amosoil 10-40W Metric Synthetic oil worked great, but it obviously couldn't normal idle temperatures.
I switched to Motul 7100 oil and it was insane how much better it was. I felt a noticeable increase (about 4 horsepower) more top end performance, and the ticking completely went away, and the sound of the engine was very quiet, even when very hot.
I tried 300V Motul oil, 10-40W, and again noticed another improvement in horsepower (about 2 horsepower). But the 300V oil shifts very hard, when going from neutral into 1st gear. It's a great oil, with the most performance of any oil I've tried, and the engine is very quiet. But the shift into 1st gear is so stiff, that it slams into gear. This was not a problem with Motul 7100, so it's very confusing.
I run 300v in my dirtbike and it's the best I've ever come across. I had a bearing behind the clutch basket fail at around 100hrs (wasn't the oils fault) a bike mechanic looked at the engine and said it looked like the engine had more like 15hrs on it everything else was perfect thanks to the 300v
I've been using repsol 4t racing in my bikes for years, recently I tried motul 7100 and I did not like it at all! The bike shifted very hard on 7100 compared to the repsol! I will be trying the 300v based on your and other recommendations hopefully better than 7100 while staying cheaper than the repsol. Thanks for the video looking forward to more content.
The best part of the 300V for me was the smoothness of shifts. Everyone I know has made the same observation. Please keep us posted on your experience with the 300V. What bike do you have?
@@MonacoGP_On_TH-cam My experience with the 7100 was on an 06 Fireblade, the 300v ill be putting into the 03 Hayabusa which I just got, unfortunately the only thing I can compare it to is the old 5100 the the previous owner used to put in the Hayabusa, since trading him my CBR I have had the engine and transmission rebuilt on the Busa so I wont have any basis for direct comparison, but ill let you know what I think of it.
@@darthzoidberg7850And 5 years later the verdict is?
Would you think using 300v with Liqui Moly MoS2 Molybdenum additive could make the shifting even smoother? I currently have issues with clunky shifting and hot temp so that is my main priority to sort out, thanks!
Mobil 1 extended performance all the way for me. I have used it on motorcycles and cars all my adult life ever since i saw the wear results of about 100 different oils tested for wear after one year of using it. That is why there is a guaranteed protection for 15000 miles written on the bottles. I have never experienced any slippage issues or difficulty shifting with any of my inline four sport bikes and naked i have owned trough the years. Not only that but most times when i change the oil it still looks like the day i put it, the color that is. Truly amazing oil, and on my car after 10000 miles it is just few shades darker and not black like most oils these days. On the motorcycle after 5000 miles it is still like new.
Mobile 1 is a great oil. When I drove professionally for Porsche it was the oil I was required to use by the engineers even though at the time Porsche had significant factory marketing with Shell.
Mobile 1 does have minor issues with allowing blow by in boosted engines from my personal experience.
Double ester oils like 300v didn't exist 5 years ago.
I always go with manufactures recommendations so for me it’s GN4… great video
Thank you!
Do you think it would be good on my Cbr 250R (2017) ? (It's for the first oil change my bike is 125 km now.)
I think any bike will benefit from this oil. As I say in the video, just about any name brand will protect the engine though some seem to run hotter, but this oil really addresses the needs of a wet clutch and the integrated gear box of motorcycle engines.
Hi, I am from Singapore. You have done a great job and review.
How do you break in your bike for the first 600 miles? You mentioned that your bike got no oil burning even after 8k miles oil change. And what oil you used during break in? Do you drain the factory oil in the bike for mineral oil?
Mine is a 2014 but burn about 800 ml in 3000 miles.
Sorry my reply is so late. The factory oil is fine for the "break in" period. Break in is highly overrated. When I get a new bike I insist on being there for first start up. That's the most important part. Dealers will start the bike and let it sit at idle. That's completely wrong. You want to blip the throttle to make sure wear is even. In my past experience with German manufactured factory provided automobile racing engines, we would blip the throttle continuously for 20 minutes, change the oil and done. That's it. Sport bike engines are as close to a racing engine with equal if not better production tolerances. Ride the bike but don't cruise at one RPM. Doing so can cause uneven wear. Frankly I run the crap out of them and have never had a problem just keep the RPM well below redline until your first oil change.
@@MonacoGP_On_TH-cam
Thank you so much. Good days.
I used 300v before on aprilia caponord 1200 and the oil colour is like glowing green. My bike still on stock exhaust and have catalytic converter on it and maybe the absence of detergents makes it much more hotter especially on red light stop. Other than on heavy traffic, I just push the bike really hard and the engine seems like to be treating that way too. After 5 intervals with motul I'd like to try maxima extra4 in next oil change.
Your engine should run cooler on this oil than other 4T rated oils. I had heat issues with RedLine 4T and others. This oil, like Amsoil, gives me no issues with temperature. Also, this oil can be used whether or not you have a catalytic converter.
Its defo not the oil fault that yer bike is runnin hot pal
Thanks for the info.
Thinking of using the motul 300v on my dirt bike.
Any uodate from someone using this oil on dirty environments?
For a Motul product the 7100 is probably better in dirty environments. I stick with OEM air filters because the very minimal power gain from using a "race" filter isn't worth tge added dirt.
What's weird is that I am using 300V, and it's the hardest shifting oil I've ever encountered. When shifting between gears, it shifts like BALL BEARINGS. It shifts AMAZING. However, when you put the bike into 1st gear, it SLAMS into first gear, and the clutch doesn't seem to want to disengage at all? It seems to be so sticky that it doesn't allow the clutch to disengage, because of it's high surface tension? It's $108 a gallon right now at Cycle Gear. It's a very high quality oil, but I can't figure out why it makes the neutral-to-1st shift so hard? It should be noted, I did have residue of Motul 7100 oil in my bike, the oil I was using previously, and it may be the mixture of the two different types of oils that is causing the weird 1st gear slam?
Not sure, but if you read through the comments others have noticed the improved shifting
Great video great information, please turn down the music.
It is extremely annoying…. ! Lol
When I originally posted the music was far lower. The only thing I can figure is TH-cam is upping the volume on background music to try and catch copyright issues so they can demonitize videos. Thank you for watching and glad to help!
do u use an oil stabilizer like a Lucas along with this
No I don't. Not sure what that would accomplish. This is a 5th gen, double ester oil. That Lucas additive as been around for decades and was meant to go with dyno oil. Watch the 8500 mile review I just posted. There's a short scene mid video that demonstrates the lack of fling / oil lash. One of the big selling points of Lucas is it promotes cling for better protection. This oil has that built in. Don't forget to like / subscribe. th-cam.com/video/RJFgSR-nHms/w-d-xo.html
Would you run that in a victory? I usually use Amsoil or the Victory brand oil.
A Victory isn't as high revving so thermal breakdown is much less of an issue but a triple ester oil is going to protect better than standard synthetic
I using the motu 300v on my bike, I use the same throttle, same road, same timing, the low middle and top range speed are the same, with the other engine oil I use call yamalube, however the only different is the smoothness, as motu is more smooth and cooler than yamalube
I'm investigating this oil for my Kawasaki ZRX1200R. I see it on Amazon, but a slight difference. I noticed 7100 on one product, and nothing on your suggestion. Different prices. Clarify please.
The 7100 appears to be a better choice for smaller displacement air cooled engines but I'm sure it would be fine in your bike as well. I've never run the 7100. It is a single ester whereas the 300V is a double ester meaning it has more clinging agents. This is what lends to the very smooth shifting of the 300V. I'm pretty sure one of the comments on this vide has someone saying the 7100 didn't shift as well. Hope that helps. Thank you for watching and commenting!
I use Klotz 4 stroke Techniplate in my ZRX, really like it.
Would it be good in my new 2020 Honda CRF450R
Certainly won't hurt anything but the 300v is a double ester. This is achieved by not adding as much in the way of cleaning agents compared to single ester or other oils. For air cooled engines in dirty environments I'd be more inclined to go with a single ester like the 7100 for Motul or Liquid Molly.
Look through the other comments. Someone specifically addressed using 300v in their dirtbike. The manufacturers all push their private label oil. Gee I wonder why. Watch my video on running 300v for 8500 miles between changes. I talk about my decision being based on Honda having an 8000 interval for their synthetic blend. Anybody with 1/2 a brain knows these engines benefit from full synthetic.
How about the 7100 is it safe for daily use fir cbr 600rr '14?
Its 100% synth with ester too
I have no personal experiencce with the 7100. Every premium oil will protect the engine so I'm sure it's fine. The reason I prefer the 300V is the other aspects like smooth shifting, lack of breakdown over an extended period and no consumption.
@@MonacoGP_On_TH-cam
I see... worth to try though its gonna be heavy on my pocket$ 😂
Whats the average mills/kms to change it by your own experience using it bruh?..
That's the thing. I've always changed oil at 3K mile intervals. At that point oils like Amsoil looked dirty and started to break down a little as evidenced by slight increase in consumption. When I did the first change on this oil, the 300v, I noticed it look like new. I decided this go around to leave it in. My manufacturer, Honda, has an 8K mile service schedule on their OEM oil. So I figured what the heck lets see what happens as this is clearly better oill than the OEM. I ran the last almost 8K miles this season and haven't had to ad any oil and the oil still looks very close to new. As I've stated in an earlier comment to this video I plan on sending an oil sample out over the winter to see where I'm at. I know I'll change the oil in the spring no matter what but if I'm getting nearly 3x the duty cycle out of this oil than I was able to get out of the Amsoil which itself isn't exactly cheap, I'm way ahead to use the 300v. Don't forget to like/subscribe :-)
@@MonacoGP_On_TH-cam
Nice info on that oil bruh..
Yeah me too.. i usually tested the oil when the first time i stuffed it on the baby blade..
Aside of the manufactures advice.. i do little experiments to the oil on my bike, and im using the bike as daily ride work-home-hangouts-touring just like you did..
But this is tge first time i want to levelup abit for my baby blade blood circulations for the sake of its long lasting age, maintenance, speed and its durability 😂
As of know im using motul 5100 w 10/40 with ester for about almost 4 yrs now...
But its gets breaks easily for the time when its reach 3200-3800 kms usage, i guess its because i like speed cruising and roadracing whenever ive found folks tempt me into it 😂..
Yeah this 5100 type not do very good for 4T 600cc inline engines after ive realised its only a semi synth lubricant although with ester..
So now i decided to upgrade its oil.. between the 7100 10/40 or higher v300 10/40..
But with all youve said im satisfy more to try that v300 for daily use..
Coz good heaven i wanna see my baby blade live on and still runs fast and see it being ride by my grand childs when i die 😂🏁
But anyway thanks for the helpfull advise bruh..
God Bless and Drive Safe.. and Keep on racing (though even its not on the track)
Like and subscribed sir.. bruh.. sir..😆
I guess everyone have different experiences. Told Motul was the top of the line but not for me. 2015 Yamaha R6. Motul kept burning oil somehow. Price for performance, I didn’t like it at all. Tried Mobil 1 and the gears were very sticky and burned oil but less than Motul. Valvoline burned no oil after 2k miles and the shifts were smooth. The cheapest option was the best.
My buddy is a amsoil dealer he hates me bc I use the motul and we argue till the sun goes down about the oils ha I know I'm using the better product and it smells way better and looks cooler ha
May i know why dont you use 15w-50 instead?
Manufacturers specify oil for very specific reasons. Do some research into why manufacturers specify the viscosity they do.This is especially true in a wet clutch situation like a motorcycle. It's not like the old days where you ran higher viscosity dinosaur oil for racing.
USE WHAT THE MANUFACTURER RECCOMENDS> Keep it simple.
By the color and look it has to be Motul.
Royal Purple is by far the worst oil. I was reading about people who blew their engine using Royal Purple oil, although it may not be the fault of the oil, but I've not heard stories of other oils causing damage. I put Royal Purple in my Ford work van and it ticked really loud when cold. I changed the oil and stopped using the Royal Purple and it has never ticked since.
Royal Purple doesn't adhear well and flings off. Better for HP but at what cost?
How about 300V vs Bel Ray EXS ?
I don't have any direct experience with the Bel Ray. It is, however, ester based so it may be worth a look.
any good engine oil do not come cheap, cheap oil only use by poor peoples, however i am using now is yamalube rs4gp 100% synthetic, the stock is out of supply thinking of using 300v 10w40, i am happy about the yamalube rs4gp 100% synthetic, it give you good power, i wonder the 300v can beat this one?
Gaining power from less clingy oil generally comes at the sacrifice of protection. Royal Purple, for example, lauds HP increases over other oils. Problem is standardized tests show it doesn't protect bearing surfaces nearly as well. I have no experience with Yammalube.
300v the green candy
can we use 300v for daily ride?
Fat Rider Yes. Why wouldn't you be able to? That's what I use it for. I have 3K miles on this oil. I've bought another gallon but am holding of on the change because for the first time in my life, in any vehicle, it looks like new. I was impressed when I switched to it. I'm even more impressed now.
I used to think that 300v is a race spec oil formulated for racing engines and not quite suitable for standard daily ride normal engine but after watching your vid, am going to try it for my bike as well. thank you..ride safe
Fat Rider Most items, if they hold up to racing, are the best available for street. Tires and brakes are different because the race versions require temperature ranges not attainable on street. In the case of oil, however, if it protects a race engine that lives between 11 and 14K it will do an incredible job of protecting on the street. As I said in the video, lots of oils protect the engine very well on the street but this oil is next level because of how well it makes the gearbox and clutch work.
Thank you for watching and for your excellent question. Don't forget to like/sibscribe. :-)
I had this same question as I am about to try out 300v for the first time in my daily rider. Thanks for the video and the priceless info. And the color is pretty cool.
Motul recommends their 7100 line for daily use. It has detergents that 300V doesn't use. What 300V does have it, is double ester. Ester clings to metal and reduces that metal on metal contact. 7100 has ester, and detergent, which is actually better for non-racing use. It'll help keep components clean for long-term. Detergents are what help suspend metals in the oil and reduce friction that way. Motul's logic is that double ester is just better for the extreme racing conditions, and that is true. It squeezes out a bit more power out of your engine. But if you're not racing your bike exclusively, they'd recommend 7100.
Another part to consider is that 300V doesn't have several ratings the 7100 does. Because it's not meant to. But on top of that, the 300V will kill your catalytic converter. Why? Again, it's for a racing only application. If your bike is track only, you're going to remove your catalytic converter, and so it doesn't matter if your oil can kill it it because there's nothing for it to kill (everyone removes the cat because you squeeze out a bit of power by doing so, and you can get it tuned that way). You don't want to mess up your cat. One, it's expensive to fix. Two, it's illegal to mess up your cat, unless it's not going on the road. Three, cats are important.
Even if 300V seems to be no better or worse than 7100, 7100 is still better for the fact alone that it won't kill your catalytic converter and make for a really expensive fix.
Is motul 5000 any good
So are u sponsored or in ANYWAY affiliated with motul?
No. Just conveying my experience.
@@MonacoGP_On_TH-cam the only issue i have ever heard of with motul was overheating in normal situations,,traffic, long trips,etx..i feel its more of a racing centered oil where its changed more often,and heat comes in minutes not hrs
@@bamaboysmith2723Wherever you heard that it doesn't make sense. If a product can stand up to the tortures of a race environment which are street x 1000, it's a superior product. The temps on my bike are same or lower than any other oil I've used.
@@MonacoGP_On_TH-cam i will see if i can find it..i ment short periods of high heat is not as bad as long peroids of slighty less heat..the oil breaks down with extreme exposure time..its a great oil no question though..we all have our personal opinions you know..
@@bamaboysmith2723 Certainly many oils are excellent. For me, in my bike, this one has performed the best. Since you brought up concerns with how long it will last on the street you should watch this video.
th-cam.com/video/RJFgSR-nHms/w-d-xo.html
I'm a simple man, I use 300V for my Aprilias and Motul 7100 for my Guzzis. End of the story.
When do you change oil for 300v?
2000miles?
TLDR: MOTUL 300V 10w40
Diffrent oils for diffrent folks...All pretty much the same..😊😊😊
ROYAL PURPLE ✨✨👑💜💯
Motul 300v is best but should be changed between 3000-3500 miles
I've been watching mine on this particular change interval. As you know we tend to change our oil long before necessary. I believe the Honda spec, I have a CBR1000RR, is 8000 miles and that's for their OEM synthetic blend oil. I normally do changes religiously every 3K miles. I had noticed on previous changes with this oil that it looked brand new. This oil change interval I have left in for longer. I'm around 7K. I'm going to send a sample out for testing but I have not consumed a drop leading me to believe there is no viscosity change and there is very little in the way of color change. I'll make a post here once I get that oil analysis done at the end of the season which is fast approaching :-(
@@MonacoGP_On_TH-cam The Motul 300V is not engineered for long therm use....If it was clear when you changed it that is a bad sign...It does not have the additive package(detergents and dispersants) to keep the engine clean/this will ruin the engine fast.....Also, high esters content does not work well in long therm because they degrade in contact with water...Esters are used in oils as anti-wear additive and not more than 20%....So, 300V is a race oil intended for very short interval change(only few hours)...If you push it too long it will ruin your engine faster because it looses it's propertis fast.....Use instead Motul 7100, it's engineered for long therm use and will protect your engine better than 300V.
@@alienoverlords7957 th-cam.com/video/RJFgSR-nHms/w-d-xo.html
Test results say otherwise but thank you for watching and commenting.
@@MonacoGP_On_TH-cam I also have some test results comparing the lubricity of many oils side by side...This is a good starting point in the evaluation of the oil you are using: th-cam.com/video/_bmLrBhcQNI/w-d-xo.html
At the video description you will find a link to his blog where you will find google spreadsheet documents with the results from over 500 engine oils and the tests take into account diffrent temperatures, loads and hardness of the samples used.... Even if tests does not take into account all the variables within an engine(mainly RPM witch is the most important factor... because oils behave diffrently at various rpm(good article to read here: jurnaltribologi.mytribos.org/v4/JT-V4-10-20.pdf ) Anyway if the oil is clear is because it has no dispersans addives in the oil and that will give a ''good fake'' reading in the lab results because the sediments are not fully suspended in the oil...I propose you dig more in this direction because is concerning that Motul does not recomend 300v for extended drain interval...All the best to you!
marius ciur g
$67 a gallon via Motul 300v FYI
You can get it for $56 on Amazon w/free prime shipping.
MonacoGP that’s a fair price!
The picture says it all. Bell helmet and AmSoil. Both overrated, underperforming and expensive for their quality. AmSoil does not make one drop of oil, they are a blender. They buy their base stock and additive package, and whip up their own concoctions. I'll stick with a company that owns the refinery, and makes the add pack, doing their own research.
Did you watch the video because the winner wasn't Amsoil.
As far as Bell goes, calling them "over-rated" makes you sound like a 🤡.
What's with all the mystery..u know u can just skip to the end right??
Always a couple of 🤡's who've never had a video watched by more than their mom.
Some people tell me that bcos 300v is a racing oil hence it degrades faster than a high performance oil so you wld need to change oil at shorter intervals. So oil like motul 7100 wld be more suitable if the bike spends most of its life on the streets. Ive chkd the motul website for both 300v & 7100 & the lifespan for both is the same 12000km. My manual says 10000km or 1 year whichever comes 1st. So it appears that all this 3000km oil change & faster degradation for 300v or racing oils in general is just a myth??
Any oil in a racing application will degrade faster due to the extremes of the environment. It's logical that any oil designed for the extremes of racing will in fact last longer in a normal use environment. Consider that the duty cycle of oil, tires, brakes even engines in racing applications are measured in minutes instead of thousands of miles, months or years. What "people" have told you is wrong.I've been watching mine on this particular change interval. As you know we tend to change our oil long before necessary. I believe the Honda spec, I have a CBR1000RR, is 8000 miles and that's for their OEM synthetic blend oil. I normally do changes religiously every 3K miles. I had noticed on previous changes with this oil that it looked brand new. This oil change interval I have left in for longer. I'm around 7K. I'm going to send a sample out for testing but I have not consumed a drop leading me to believe there is no viscosity change and there is very little in the way of color change. I'll make a post here once I get that oil analysis done
@@MonacoGP_On_TH-cam Thks for the reply & debunking the myth. Looking forward to your update with interest.
What they may be thinking of is straight weight, non detergent dyno oils from 30 years ago. They were used in racing and had to be changed more frequently if used in daily drivers.
Use a blended oil and change it every 3000 miles. PERIOD
Source: trust me bro
I “clearly” did watch the video in it’s entirety as painful as it was.
Then you would have seen I discussed temperature. You're free to spend your time making videos for no return. Let's see how you do.
Yes yes. Its your opinion. That is a war you dont want to enter
WAR ? Seriously, he's simply giving you his opinion !!!