Zinc makes The Dip safer. I think.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
- The Dip is a lead removal method that uses equal parts Vinegar and Hydrogen Peroxide. It is very effective but leaves behind nasty Lead Acetate. We can use Zinc metal to turn that lead acetate into lead metal again.
Check out this follow up video from The VSO Gun Channel. He knows a lot more about chemistry and gives an easier solution. th-cam.com/video/MaOBNJvRx0o/w-d-xo.html
This seems like the sort of video I will soon delete in shame.
Also: I bought a Creality Ender 3 S1. We can talk about it on the stream tomorrow night, but it will be a few weeks before I get a video put together. It's still in the box because I've been staring at lead all week.
No worries, interesting stuff. Need to see if you can cast a bullet from what you collect :). I’ve got a supressor on order so this will be in the back of my mind for future consideration. Maybe some stronger acids could move the process along faster?
I vote for leaving the video up, I don't see any problem with it. Also, I may be wrong, but I think the white precipitate may have been lead that fell out of solution because you're solution reached its saturation point. Keep up the good work Sir.
Don't delete the video please I may want to watch it again
FYI kinda related to this but more relevant to your annealing, "reese on the range" is a metallurgist on yt and he has a very good explanation of the science of annealing on his channel. Thought you may be able to consult him on other metallurgy questions too and it looks like he watches your channel as well. Just thought I'd let you know Sir.
Because of you I bought an Ender 5 Pro and the Lee APP. I got a couple 3D projects in mind. And I just can’t get over the speed of the Lee once you got it set up.
Quick question - what size tubes do you buy that fits the collator?
Hey Johnny, if you want to speed up the reaction you can use zinc powder instead of a large piece of zinc. The increased surface area of the powder will help a lot.
Ooh, good idea!
Nilered did that in the 2nd video, so I considered it. I was holding out hope that maybe we could grow some cool looking crystals, and we did a little bit. Like you say, I'm sure all that surface area would help a lot.
Maybe for something reusable you could get thin sheets, maybe foil, and coil it up to get surface area too.
@@JohnnysReloadingBench Try leaving it overnight in Coke once in a while
This was cool. I might duplicate from the perspective of a classically trained chemist.
Also, that copper solution at the end is either copper acetate or copper hydroxide. Maybe both. I’m guessing acetate because of the excess vinegar in the original peracetic acid mix. To test this take a small sample (maybe 100ml or so) and get some clear, strong liquor like everclear or 151 and dilute it. If precipitates you have copper acetate. If it doesn’t then you have the hydroxide.
This will determine how you go about cleaning up the copper
That would be really awesome. Correct it, refine it, explain it, expand it, refute it...I'd be happy to hear anything from someone that understands what's going on.
Easier: freeze distill metal acetates, the 90% of the acetates will form a crust on the surface and also suspend as particles, I just did this for copper acetate. Then filter for pure metal acetates.
@@notamouse5630 I hate freeze distillation, makes a mess. I’m a classical wet chemist- contain everything in a liquid system and kick species out chemically.
@@VSO_Gun_Channel Depends upon whether the container is glass, Also there is the option of freeze distillation, scraping the crust, crushing and centrifuging the slush, and taking the concentrate for round 2 of freeze distillation. All without glassware, which was my reason. I am a classic kitchen chemist reusing polymer ice cream cointainers. This freeze distillation makes both a crystalline product and a concentrate.
@@JohnnysReloadingBench Aluminum powder is relatively cheap (Alpha Chemical sells 2lb for $26) and IIRC is a stronger reducing agent than Zinc, plus the powder will react faster. Would recommend trying it.
As a chemist I love that experiment! That's why we do research so it can be tested for actual usecases! Nice job! (And don't worry it failed. This is what engineers do. They test what should work as a usecase and then often spend years ironing the kinks out)
That Hybrid.46 looks like it’s seen better days. I’ve had one for years and have never even once cleaned mine. In fact, the directions say do not clean! I should a few rounds of super high power .375 rounds through mine to blow out stuff.
I had no idea about any of this kind of thing. Seems if it weren't so hard to send suppressors everywhere you could have a reasonably priced cleaning service just so you didn't have to deal with that kind of crap.
My thoughts exactly...
If you have a suppressor with some build up in it just get some Boretech C4. Just plug the bore with a silicone plug and fill it up. It gave me excellent results. Now Boretech has a suppressor specific cleaning kit as well.
I'm glad all my moderators are strippable so i don't have to deal with this all i have to do is open it up, use something to clean like boretech eliminator and brush away.
Fellow student of TH-cam Chemistry University here, I think what happened is due to what's called the "Reactivity Series of Metals", basically some metals are more reactive, and others less so. You can use this to swap one metal for another in a solution, and since Iron (in the brush handle & bristles) is more reactive than Lead, it was not only dissolving due to the solution, but whatever lead had dissolved into the solution was immedately being replaced by iron from the handle. Zinc is more reactive than iron, so when you put the zinc coil in that nasty solution, both the iron and the lead were precipitating out which is why you got a different looking precpitate.
This is used in Gold refnining because Gold is the least reactive metal. A process called "inquartation" can be used whereby carat gold (i.e., gold that is not pure) is alloyed with sterling silver to make it easier to dissolve out the silver and base metals. The pure metallic gold is left behind, and then the solution that is full of silver, copper, etc can be refined using the reactivity series to remove just the silver by putting in pieces of copper.
Alright he summed up my comment way better than I wrote it haha. Any experience with iron sulfate to precipitate gold in solution? I think I accidentally screwed up with adding more hydrochloric acid and peroxide over and over and eventually got the gold in solution (over a week or 2, no heat). Can’t find any sodium metabisulfate locally but did locate copperas (iron sulfate).
I soak my suppressors in BoreTech Eliminator every one thousand or so rounds. It keeps them maintained and I don’t gain any weight. I soak for one hour, rinse with water then rinse withBallistol and water mix of 90 percent water and ten percent Ballistol. I have never had any issue whatsoever but.. my finish is long gone, it’s been cooked, painted over and re painted over five times.
In Texas, my town has hazmat collection days from time to time. I can drive up to a parking lot and the state will dispose of hazardous chemicals for me (residential quantities only). I have never tried to do lead acetate, but it might be worth a few calls to Tennessee officials.
Howdy Tex! I’m also in Texas (North Central). Can you tell me what town or towns do this. I have a few jars that need to go away. Thanks!
@@homersaypian3798 almost every large-ish municipality will have a residential hazardous waste disposal site. I would try looking for your town + residential hazardous waste disposal.
Sometimes it's a city-run location and sometime the local fire department will handle it.
@@homersaypian3798 you probably have to call your city or county. I don’t think residents of other towns can show up.
This is why I love your channel, never gong to know what I'm go get but it's always entertaining.
Ok, i'm confused. What the heck were you trying to accomplish in this video?? At first I thought you were just trying to clean your suppressor....
I'll be coming back to this video in a week. I'm a big fan of chemistry and I want to see what where this goes. 👍
Junkyard chemistry. This is good stuff.
Contact Nilered he can probably explain better. I think you electroplated your suppressor. Acidic solution and a few different metals. Hope your suppressor is ok
I am not a chemist but I did work at TBAC for some time. The suppressors they make are 100% titanium so I only recommend this with titanium suppressors only. CLR works really well at cleaning gunk out of suppressors. At TBAC they use the Zep brand CLR. It works really well getting the gunk out of them. If it is really bad you may need to repeat the process.
Johnny you have an Omega 300. remove the caps to get more crap out of it by scrapping. Also heat up some water to around 180F and add some limi-shine to it. Not much but around 1-2 TBL spoons. Then submerge the suppresor. WOrks like a charm. I use it on brakes as well.
You are introducing many more elements to the solution, not just lead. The brown color is happening because your solution is oxidizing the steel (aka iron) in the brush you used as a way to remove the suppressor. Oxidized iron is also known as rust...which is causing the brown color of your solution.
If your suppressor was a dedicated 22lr can, you would really just have lead buildup in the baffles, with a carbon and a little copper (if you shoot copper coated bullets). Since your suppressor is a centerfire can, there really isn't going to be much in the way of pure lead buildup...it's mostly carbon fouling...can't remove a lot of lead if it isn't there to being with.
I use "The Dip" on my 22lr suppressors...I don't even bother cleaning my centerfire suppressor...especially since I can't remove the baffles. To dispose of my lead acetate solution, I just leave the jar open and let the solution evaporate over time (outside, of course)....only the lead is left in the bottom. I'll try the zinc method next time.
IMO, cleaning a sealed centerfire suppressor is king of like trying to clean your car muffler. If the suppressor is still efficiently suppressing sound, then leave it alone. Running a carbon cleaner like that piston cleaner seems to be doing something, but if you can't get to the baffles to clean/scrap them, then what is the point?
something you forget that is a major contributor to fouling with 22LR and that is wax....22LR are lubricated with a fair amount of wax and boy oh boy does it build up
I'm not a gun guy at all. I don't know how common any of this is, but I think it's really cool that you've potentially made this process safer. Bioavailable lead being dumped into the environment is serious & if more people start doing this that's awesome. Also really fun chemistry.
Jrb thanks for doing this . Keep this video up it's a learning tool .
Don't know how I got here but I won't forget what I learned
Alright the blue color of the last dip is copper. Once the copper goes in solution it will cement out on iron (why it plated on the can). The iron replaced it the exact same way the zinc does the lead. So to get it out of solution you can literally throw any scrap iron in and it’ll drop out. I’d avoid stainless as it will add other stuff like chromium, vanadium, etc. which may be more toxic than the copper. Plain old low grade steel is your best bet. You can also use electrolysis (which would put you on the road to plating lead projectiles for instance..). I know sodium metabisulfate and iron sulfate are 2 used to drop gold and other precious metals, not sure if they’d do copper but might be worth looking into. Oh and diluting the solution with water will make the lead and silver oxide drop out of solution.
"You're a frickin hill-jack, trying to do something with chemistry..."! Love it! Chemistry for the common man! Definitely interesting and equally entertaining. Do it again
If you use a rod in the other jar and pour onto the rod, you can get a cleaner extraction (it’s still a crude extraction) but it’ll be better. This is called decanting.
I think that line might be the separation line of zinc acetate and lead acetate since they have different weights. Lead has more molecular weight so it would gravitate below the zinc acetate.
That could explain why the reaction slowed way down once that line went below the zinc - it's harder for the lead acetate to get close to zinc metal since it is surrounded by zinc acetate.
Suggesting a stir bar to keep the solution made of the acetates mixed or keep the zinc metal close to the bottom.
There is a bunch that i never knew...particularly the lead acetate hazard - Thanks! I've been looking at a couple of suppressors that state they are "maintenance free" but looking at what you got out of yours makes me second guess those claims.
theres no such thing really. All will need to be either cleaned or re-cored eventually
Good job , man
Dude, seriously impressed with your experiment. Would like to see more like that concerning firearms. Where would you dispose of the liquid in the container or who would you call to find out?
Thank you for the information 🔫👍🏻
Lead oxide is white, perhaps the H202 is forming it faster than the vinegar can dissolve it.. idk? would the oxidation be accelerated by including some kinds of salts?
Hi college chemistry student, some info may be off.
the blue solution looks to probably be cuprous acetate from the copper jackets of the bullets.
That line that was forming appears to be the separation between the lead and zinc acetate with lead metal floating in between (lighter than lead acetate and heavier than the zinc acetate)
The orange mist that formed was probably a mix of iron and copper dissolving off the wire holder and inside of the baffles.
As for the white precipitate I don’t think I know at all why could have caused it other than maybe some weird reaction between an oxide layer on the lead balls
Cool experiment! Would love to see it tried again, maybe try filtering the precipitates with a coffee filter at the end too?
Meanwhile I’m just over here throwing my cans in an ultrasonic
epsom salts work as well to precipitate out the lead into lead sulfate.
Just use CLR, no lead acetate produced. I soak my suppressor for 5 min, rinse with warm water and dry it out in the oven. easy peasy
This is so cool! Science is great.
I think it was a reaction with the brush…I guess it formed some type of oxide. It’s not just iron that can rust. Any type of oxide can be rust.
Never thought I'd hear johnny watching nilered
You are a renaissance man!
Awesome video. I’m pretty sure the green and some of the other sediment is copper from the jackets.
A way to prevent hot spots in your UT cleaner is to put the suppressor in the cleaner in a jar, and put the jar in the tank and fill the space around the jar with water.
A friend of mine who owns a suppressor was warned by the gun shop who he did the transfer through "DO NOT DO "THE DIP", two reasons, you just made a highly toxic chemical for one, second the disposal needs to be done right because of how ecologically terrible the stuff is.
Clean your suppressor often so you don't gotta even consider doing this yourself.
I think a large part of the solution change in color was due to the other elements that would be found along with lead I.e. Copper, powder and lead as well, compared to your first test with pure round ball lead. So the addition of these elements most likely negated some of the effectiveness of the solution.
Dang man, why are we over complicating this? Its a centerfire rifle, it doesn’t build up the lead that a 22lr can builds up. If you really want to clean it just spray some foaming Wipeout bore cleaner in there a few times or just plug the ends and put a brush free bore cleaner in there. There is carbon and maybe a little copper build up in there, very little lead.
Edit: I didnt mean for that to come across as critical.
It is 6 years old and with how much he shoots I would imagine it has a lot of build up. There is probably quite a bit of carbon and more lead than you think because of bullets with exposed lead in the back. But agreed he is going way too deep down the rabbit hole here. He could just send it in to get cleaned for little to no cost or use an easier method.
@@Nick-sx6jm Yeah, no I understand its an older suppressor that gets shot a lot with various calibers and powder loads, but still…the Wipeout method, or just any foaming bore cleaner works marvelous for upkeep.
I have 20k on a form 1 can. I've never cleaned it I've actually never even taken it apart. It still works fine all grade 5 titanium with a ss blast baffle that's eroded a little bit. Cleaning a rifle can is absolutely pointless, my rugged obsidian 45 has roughly 5k on it I've never touched it either and probably won't.
I don't know why some guys want to clean these things so bad? I'd rather not be in contact with what's inside them. If I ever have a problem with a factory built can I'll send it back they'll fix it. My form 1's I don't really care about because my blast baffle will be eroded before "not cleaning it" would cause a problem.
@@theLeadGin because some people will take the time to keep their shit nice? do you service your car?
@@James28R Servicing a car =/= to keeping it looking nice (cleaning). Last I checked cleaning a muffler on a car does not come up as a recommendation or requirement. Cleaning the interior of a car and washing the exterior is achievable through much more ecologically sound principles such as water and "elbow grease."
I don't breathe through my sound suppressor, nor do I drive my car from inside the muffler or engine block.
1. REGULAR MAINTENANCE is key to suppressors especially .22 rimfire!
2. Clean a take down suppressor (I don't like sealed units) as often as you clean the weapon (doesn't allow build up of lead or carbon).
3. Use brass brush for steel parts and nylon for aluminum.
4. Apply a light coat of CLP, white Lithium grease or petroleum jelly to internal parts (makes cleaning much easier).
5. Don't be a pig with your equipment, keep things maintained and enjoy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
So basically use Piston Clean and leave the Ranger Rick chemistry kit in the closet. Don't mess with anything that will kill you, got it. You're always looking out for us. Thanks, brother. All smart a$$ aside my brain turned to mush halfway through this, like that lead sponge that you made.
Look up Cody's lab and ask him, he is a backyard chemistry genius
I got a canned response from robo-cody.
@Shannon idk if the piston clean is similar to CLR but that’s what I have heard people using to clean there suppressors and muzzle brakes also barrels ?????? Idk maybe that might work for you
I watched the video twice, because the first time I didn't see where you did a cleaning with the suppressor in the solution with zinc at the same time. You only put zinc in the solution after the suppressor was taken out. What happens when you put the zinc in with the suppressor, or just lead balls if you don't have another suppresser to clean? Is the cleaning faster? Slower? No change? I clean my compensators with the peroxide/vinegar solution, but would like to see what happens with zinc added during the cleaning. Any chance you will make another video showing this?
Lead really should be phased out of bullets. It's not necessarily hysteria. In some soil types lead will slowly dissolve and end up into water, then it goes to animals, plants and/or drinking water. IE into us.
I have been using Piston Clean on my Can and gun parts for years. I posted that Chemical on your suppressor video. I don't know why you are trying do dissolve lead. You are not going to get lead in the Can.
Carbon is what builds up. I clean my can every time I use it. You won't have any problems taking it apart.
This may sound crazy, but try using a galvanized bucket, since galvanizing is hot plated zinc anyways?
Have you thought about getting an airlock like what craft brewers use? That way the hydrogen gas can still get out but even less chance of spillage.
That's an awesome idea. I'd like for it to evaporate over time, but it would probably be safer to have something spill-proof for long term. Definitely something I'll consider.
Isn't the point of those things just to create like a one way valve to prevent bacteria and whatnot from getting in?
Did you contact NileRed at all? I bet he'd be happy to consult for a fellow youtuber!
Why wouldn’t you just leave the lead acetate solution in a container to evaporate into a crystalline solid? You could then measure the amount precisely and react it with sulphuric acid to make lead sulphate which isn’t water soluble. You could safely dispose of that in the garbage or dilute it into some concrete and dispose of it as patio stone lol
So just out of curiosity… when you have created the lead acetate solution just leave it outside and let it evaporate. Once it has evaporated add sulfuric acid to it and then it will turn it in to lead sulfate? Which is obviously safer I’m assuming. Then you can dispose of it?
Regarding the suppressor solution I wouldn’t think you would get a lot of lead to accumulate on the zinc after the can is removed. Why? Bc your bullets are copper jacketed… the barrel is not exposed to lead unlike a 22 long rifle barrel or can.
If you ran no or partial copper jacketed bullets then I would assume you would get more lead from a suppressor dip as in that case the lead barring surface is in contact with the rifling instead of a copper jacket.
I use the dip to clean carbon off my muzzle breaks and the solution turns more dark blue and I assume that’s copper and carbon that has been dissolved.
I'll be honest, been into guns for a long time and been watching Nilered for a long time. Glad I came across this video. I'm friends with another guntuber VintageWarfare, do you mind if I share this in the discord?
Probably not the best thing to show.... now there’s going to be idiots that want to try this and pouring the waste down the drain on in their yard
Just my $0.02; First it's important to know your suppressor is made from several types of metal including stainless steel, titanium, iron and copper... and none of these are 100% pure.
Peracetic acid, without a Ph buffer, doesn't just leach and convert surface metals an carbon. It leaches these from the metal itself.
Peracetic acid can leach at least MoO, Mo, MOC, W, WO, VC and MnO
Any new updates or Revelations to the suppressor cleaning process?
First thing. KEEP this video. It is educational and the more info we have on the dip being "less hazardous" the better.
I cleaned my suppressors recently and have a batch of the dip sitting around. I have been researching for years how to make it less toxic.
It seems NaCl (aka salt) would work. I found a chemistry video of lead acetate reaction with NaCl with the chemistry formula, but no actual concrete video. Been told to boil water to make it a super saturated NaCl solution then dump into dip to make Lead Cloride (or is it Lead Clorate?). NileRed I am sub too and saw that zinc vid. Considered it too. I am also partially ready to join his patreon for a month to ask questions he might be able to answer regarding this at home chemistry.
Still looking for a place in my area that will dispose of lead acetate. Any time I call a hazmat place, I get the question of "what is lead acetate". Morons.
I've had great success with DUB Aluminum wheel cleaner. I have a Griffin Armament Sportsman that is all aluminum. It gained some weight and the DUB cleaner did a great job loosening and dissolving the crud. It didn't harm the finish or base metal either.
I have used "the dip" before with Rimfire cans. You can increase it's aggressiveness by using it in an ultrasonic cleaner. I don't use it in the ultrasonic tank. I put my baffles (Stainless only) in a spaghetti sauce jar. Add dip solution until the baffles are covered then place the jar in the ultrasonic tank. Add plain water to the tank and run as you normally would.
The dip solution can be neutralized with table salt when you are finished with it. Or save the solution and drop off at your local Hazmat days.
Don't know about Dub but be very careful with aluminum wheel cleaners in general. Several of them contain hydrofluoric acid which is super nasty stuff. It burns your skin like other acids except that it penetrates the skin surface and doesn't wash off with water.
Why would your suppressor have lead in it? Every bullet that passes through has a copper jacket, and doesn't touch the suppressor anyway. It's just carbon fouling.
Once again. You do not understand, the lead is from the priming compound. Maybe you have a matchlock and don't use primers. The priming compound lead is airborne and extremely dangerous to humans and can cause cancer too.
There will never be enough lead in a centerfire can to warrant cleaning its absolutely pointless.
Lead oxide and silver oxide are water insoluble and form a white precipitate. I believe the lead will be destroyed/ converted if you boil it, which is how you separate the 2 if you’re trying to rev over the silver for instance. No idea how tin and antimony react with h2o2 and/or acidic acid.
I clean my guns and suppressors with a product named “Shooter’s Lube -Stage 1 Military Grade” weapon cleaner. I spray removable baffles, wait a few minutes, then simply wipe down with a cloth. Baffles look like brand new when done. Same for their tube. For non-removable baffles, just pour an ounce into tube, put a finger over inlet & outlet, and shake it up to completely cover/soak the innards. Then drain after a few minutes (I reclaim the contents for future use), then stand it up on its end where it will “self dry” in an hour or two...
Drop in an iron bar if you want to pull the copper out of solution
Like someone else has said, since you're making lead salts by reacting the lead, copper, etc with the acetic acid I think your best bet is to let it dry out naturally and disposing of the remaining solids with your local special chemical disposal center. That being said, if they won't take it, I'd suggest you mix it with some epoxy.
how pure were your lead balls? I know some alloys are a few percentage zink, Antimony, and tin. Maybe the white was the tin/antimony oxidizing?
There was an article on the web about using the dip to clean stainless steel. While it does not appear to cause damage to the steel, it actually does cause oxidation. That's what that brownish colored stuff was. Rust. You rusted/oxidized parts of your can, dude.
Unless you go to town with cast lead or high pressure exposed-base FMJs, there shouldn't be much of any lead in your can. Use a solution to dissolve the carbon from time to time, and you'll be good.
You could have used sulfuric acid on the lead acetate turning it into lead sulfate and its not water soluble. I do this with lead waist and dump it into old batteries and get rid of it at the scrap yard.
Drain cleaner or something more concentrated? I saw somewhere else that this was a good way to go...it might be worth a shot.
@@JohnnysReloadingBench I use Rooto, professional drain opener for most stuff, its 93.2% sulfuric acid. But how much is needed would depend on volume of sulfuric acid to how much lead you have in solution. You can also use 98% lab grade but its not worth it. Here is an easy way to try it out. Take your solution with the lead in it and slowly add sulfuric acid. You should see a white precipitate, when you stop seeing the white precipitate falling out of solution the reaction is done, so no more acid is needed. Keep in mind this must be added SLOW as the reaction my be very exothermic. Use coffee filters to filter off the white precipitate (lead sulfate). You could then dump the solution down the drain. If you think the acid will eat pipes just neutralize it before dumping by adding sodium bicarbonate ( Baking Soda ) till it stops bubbling or tests around 7 for PH. One more thing, try it with a small amount before doing a big batch. Other contamination could mess with the outcome. Also use safety glasses and being done out doors/ventilated is best
Hang your parts with wire in your ultrasonic cleaner so they won't chaff on the bottom
Hey, you should look into Sharp Shoot R No Lead bore cleaner. I have some and if I drop a lead fishing weight into the solution it starts fizzing and has a whitish gray residue that starts coming off in clumps. Has a vinegar/acid smell. Would be curious your thoughts.
I thought build up in suppressors was primarily carbon and other byproducts of combustion. I'd be curious if there was a maintenance schedule of cleaning with only the Piston Kleen (e.g. quarterly or monthly) that would keep things relatively gunk-free.
That's the plan, as of right now. Piston Kleen and a fresh layer of anti-sieze on threads every few range trips. Hopefully it will make this dip stuff unnecessary.
@@JohnnysReloadingBench this was a test i did 10+ years ago, to make the baffels easier to clean the next time, if the baffles are removable, heat them up to 150f ish and drop them in a jar of DOT 5 Silicone Brake Fluid over night. then just wipe them off and put them back in. the heat allows it to better "soak up" into the metal pores...
primers are made of lead fulminate from what i understand so that is where youre getting lead from and why you always see those warnings on ammo boxes and stuff
There’s no real need to go to this method. Run the can hard (get the temp way up) that should self clean it. The dip is normally used on 22 cans that do get lead build up inside them. The only can I worry about cleaning, if you could call it that is my 22 can. My center fire cans I mag dump a few mags every so often an call it good. Most can benefit from having a build up inside, yes hard fact for the ocd crowd to under stand.
Intention to inform. You should read about electroyisis. And especialy read about the electrochemical Series of metalls.
Also you should study what the chemical components are that are been released from the gunpowder.
You sure have on the surpressor, lead, alu, copper, nitrate and some oils.
All oxitators like the acid and hydrogenperoxid will reduce and oxidize the low charge metalls like lead and iron.
Anyhow when you want to get more control and speed into your cleaning, use a battery charger and use your liquid as an electrolyte with some electron positive metalls like stainless or titanium.
But check the polarity so you dont desolve the surpressor!
When you want to get rid of the lead you are on a good way using oxidators like the peroxid because it is a Oxygen supplier. Any Oxide is made from a basemetall and "oxygen".
When you want to go nuts about the processing calculate the nesassary watt that is needed to disolve the lead but no other metal into the solution.
Or when you want an easier surpressor to clean use a titanium made. There the electron discrepancy from lead to titanium is much higher. Ergo you have a bigger window of watt to oparate with.
When you have almost identical electroncharges the electrolysis will becume much harder to to.
Check the elementtable in the link.
www.chemie.de/lexikon/Elektrochemische_Spannungsreihe.html
That will explain a lot more.
Have fun cleaning!
The white sediment could either be some poorly soluble lead salts like lead sulfate, perhaps from sulfates in your tap water, or from some other additives in the lead that would form insoluble salts. Maybe antimony?
Lol no shame buddy! But CLR and 2 foam ear plugs works pretty well.
Some of you guys look at lead like lung cancer 😂😂😂 Man up
I don't see why there would be any significant amount of lead in there, to begin with. A ton of carbon and copper, sure. But how would you get an accumulation of lead?
The white stuff is probably antimony acetate. It is moderately water-soluble and forms white crystals. Also, antimony is very common in lead alloys. As for the suppressor the brown stuff is probably hydrated iron oxide or rust. Not sure if it'll ruin the process tho as the visual can be more dramatic than the rusting damage actually is. I'd like to see you try again with the suppressor and this time reduce the volume of your solution by boiling so the lead would come out more easily (also get's rid of the leftover peroxide).
NileRed enjoyed here!! Great vid bossman! Also very very nice and interesting use of chemistry to do what clean a suppressor
Ok with my limited chemistry knowledge i will offer a few suggestions here:
1: your bucket idea is ok for a waste bucket, but not the reaction vessel. The zinc will 'eat up' all the solution alongside the lead, unless the reaction turning the lead acetate to zinc in that solution requires lead acetate to be formed first.
2: as a few others have noted, if you want to speed this up buy a bag of powdered zinc from the internet/a metal or chemistry supplier. wire's alright for surface area, but you want surface area here. basically goes (from most to least) powder, granules, pellets (shot), and then just chunks of it. i'd put wire around the shot level. if you could find zinc mesh that would work faster too, but may fill up with lead pretty quick as well. long story short the finer the better.
also, if you can, take the suppressor apart first. again, surface area. with it all put together the reaction is limited by how fast the reactants (peroxide and vinegar) are used up inside the suppressor tube. you've only got the small holes at the ends for "fresh" solution to get in. meanwhile if it's apart there will be more surfaces exposed constantly instead of it just being the outside of the can.
Cerakote C series coatings would make that suppressor look new. Its an air dry formula and can handle extreme heat. Just fyi.
Seriously interesting experiments Sir - and don't be discouraged if things go awry. That's what experimentation is all about. I laughed heartily at your term "Chinesium" ... that's a new element that I'll be quoting often!
I laughed at “Chinesium” too and think I’ll use that adjective for now on. Lol
Or just add table salt to the liquid and get solid, white, lead chloride out of it. It's a safer lead compound to deal with, same as the lead in Dutch Boy paint back in the day. Easier to ethically dispose of than lead acetate, just take to where lead paint is disposed of. After pouring the solution + precipitated lead chloride through good filter paper, in funnel, then take the filter paper + PbCl in it in a proper container to lead paint disposal site. The sodium acetate can go down a drain as it is environmentally benign, unlike Drano, etc. Reaction: Pb(OAc)2+2NaCl(aq)→PbCl2(s)↓+2NaOAc(aq)
How about an air lock from home brewing on the bucket?
......You said,"Chinese'ium." ... LOL! I learned a new one today. Great work I'm passing through on your channel today - 'smashed the Sub' scrib'z button. 🤗
Is there really so much lead in the supressor? In my experience, the majority of weight comes from powder residue..
I watch a lot of TH-cam and and I always enjoy logging in to see a post from “Johnny”. Keep up the good work and don’t leave TH-cam. We love watching this stuff even if it isn’t what we do in our free time. This was an interesting video for me because of my chem background in college recently.
I did the dip on some individual baffles of my first 9mm can that I had been running 22 through. I knew the hazards. While it was the most effective and efficient way to deal with lead build up, I decided not to do it again. Now I just scrape off lead by hand with a pick maybe once a year. Sealed cans I don't even mess with.
That brown rusty crap is just that: rust. The solution sped up the oxidation of the steel bristles
The white powder is the lead sugar , lead acetate. I’ve read probably the same stuff. the rest is Peracetic (sp?)acid. Don’t melt the sugar that’s the most deadly way . The zinc affected lead ehh I dunno. Also their should be some tin, antimony, silver, and arcinic (sp?) just what was their to start with. Paracetic acid also gets copper so the bronze brass dissolved.
You five gallon bucket idea will work but with a slight modification, you can’t add the zinc before or at the same time as the lead or the lead won’t (for the most part) dissolve and you will only form zinc acetate. You will need to add the lead/suppressor first. then, once you’ve dissolved all the lead you wanted to, you can add the zinc to make the solution “safer” ( I don’t actually know if zinc acetate is safer then lead acetate as both zinc and lead are Toxic metals, but I would assume it probably is, just like you said though don’t touch either with bare skin)
You passivate lead acetate by just adding table salt. Lead Acetate + Sodium Chloride = Lead Chloride + Sodium Acetate. This is a balanced double replacement (metathesis) reaction. Add enough salt that it won't all dissolve when the solution is heated to boiling. In this supersaturated brine, no lead acetate can still exist.
And then, to decompose the lead chloride, mix it with soda ash and heat it to melting. The soda ash neutralizes the HCL vapors (Hydrochloric acid) that will result.
Hey Johnny, I'd be interested to see crushed zinc tablets (the kind you get in the vitamin section) poured the into the solution. I need to clean my 22 can so I'll give it a try when I do.
Those probably won't work. You need relatively pure zinc metal in order for the replacement reaction to work, and those tablets don't use pure zinc, they use some type of zinc compound.
That is why I only buy supressors that can be disassembled. I will happy wear a thick pair of rubber gloves, mask, and goggles and go to town with some brushes and mild solvent. Lead acetate? None for me thank you.
salt+acid+oxidizer+metal=extreme potential for reaction with a large number of metals. Gota be careful with what your suppressor is made of. Inconel and titanium are likely fine, but when you start getting to aluminum and steel, caution needs to be taken.
Super interesting. I don’t have a suppressor… yet. But I’m moving to Kentucky next month (from CA), so I’ll need this video at some point. Ha!
Take your suppressor and soak it in prolong engine treatment. It's an anti friction metal treatment. It will also soak into the metal and allow for easy clean up with muscle fp10 for fire arms. Or weapon shield is the same type of product. The film from the product keeps carbon from clinging to metal surface. It's also a super lube for all metal . heat up your can with heat gun to about 150 200 degrees and soak it in the treatment sir. Leave it soak for a day or two to fully coat and penetration of all parts of your suppressor .
Call me crazy but it seems to be that lead would be the least or your worries. I would think carbon would be the majority of the build up In the suppressor. Right? The bullets are mostly copper and even if the backs were exposed lead it would still only be tiny flakes of lead in the suppressor.
Definitely do not keep zinc submerged in the bucket long term. You’ll waste your zinc by reacting it with the acid and the water until your left with nothing and you’ll also be producing hydrogen until all the zinc is gone. You don’t really need to remove the lead acetate out of solution until you’re completely done with it. It would probably be a better idea to get a safe storage container designed for chemicals to dedicate to the solution and then use it until all the acetic acid from the vinegar is converted to lead acetate after which you can remove the lead from solution by dropping the zinc in and converting the zinc to zinc acetate and the lead acetate to lead metal. Zinc powder or shavings would work faster as well due to a higher surface area. If you look up “electrochemical series” and locate lead and zinc, any metal below zinc should work as replacement. You’ll also see a voltage and that’s the voltage produced by the natural reaction or the voltage required to reverse it by applying a voltage to the solution.
Wow this is interesting. I sent my SpecWar back to silencerco a couple of years ago. It sucks waiting for it to come back but they did a great job and updated the locking ring thingy at no charge. Still your chemistry is awesome. Thanks for another great video.
Just saying, that probaly is iron acetate, same color and condition to this acetate production, the black stuff probaly is the iron returning to the metallic or iron oxide( II state probaly) forms.