You said it all quite nicely. I purchased a 20V DeWalt DCF894 (mid-torque) impact last November, intending to use it on my cars and around the home. I briefly looked at the DCF899 model (high-torque), but it weighs almost twice as much. It has more power, of course, but if you typically don't need it, why put up with the larger size and weight? The 894 has more features, and also has a 1/2" anvil. As a DIYer, I bought it to speed removal of lug nuts on my cars and other related tasks. It seems to do what I ask of it, so it was a good purchase for me.
Good review. When working under a vehicle, it is prudent to wear eye protection. Lots of eye injuries and foreign bodies in the eye happen without eye protection.
I'm glad you guys made this video. I have the big Milwaukee 1/2" high torque impact and I hardly ever use that heavy bastard. Its way too heavy and large. My two I use are the Milwaukee fuel 3/8" or my Ridgid 1/2" gen 4x impact's. Between those two I can break nearly every bolt loose. I should have waited for the Milwaukee midtorque, but they took too long to come out with it. Midtorque models are by far the most useful impacts. They have the best balance of size and power. Good video and I'm glad y'all made it to dispell many rumors of more is better.
I agree... 1/2" and 1/4" impacts and socket. I figure I can always use a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter if I ever need any light duty usage of my existing 3/8" sockets. I also agree on the weight. I have the big Milwaukee 1/2" bone crusher and it is GREAT for the times you need it. But 90% of the rest of the time I want something smaller and lighter just for buzzing bolts off and on to save my wrist. Which is why I'm looking at a compact 1/2" impact for every day use. A lot of new folks don't understand that with a air/cordless ratchet you're supposed to first break loose the bolt by using the handle of the tool and THEN use the motor/air to run it out.
I use my makita 1/4 impact driver for 90% of my cars bolts, I think I’ll be buying a 1/2 impact soon though cause it’s not ideal for any suspension work and only sometimes will remove a lugnut. The only negative that I’m not crazy about with my impact driver is I always have to use an adapter, it usually causes some play and if you use the full power of the tool it’s easy to break the adaptors, although I haven’t broke a makita ImpactX bit or adapter yet. I do want a 3/8 impact as well just cause then I won’t have to switch adapters but then my awesome little 1/4 won’t get much use =( if I was choosing over again I’d go with 3/8 first, that’s what I mostly use my impact driver for, and the next most common drive size would be 1/2 working on my car which is inevitable when doing anything that requires taking off the wheel, which is a lot of stuff, brakes and suspension mainly, the two things that get the most wear in a car.
M18 Fuel Mid Torque. Anything it can't do gets a big ratcheting breaker bar with a cheater. Which is a good thing to have anyway because some things you just can't get an impact on.
There are ratcheting breaker bars. They use stronger mechanicals and have maybe 12 ratcheting points instead of 48+. They work great. Pick one up sometime, I bet you'll love it!
RAM TRUCKS nah breaker bars are bars designed to break loose bolts, personally I think a ratcheting breaker bar is silly because the point of a breaker bar is a simple, low cost tool that is supposed to not only be stronger than a ratchet but also cheaper to replace if you do break it, add a ratcheting mechanism and you’re adding more cost and higher chance of failure, both of which are counterintuitive for the purpose of the tool. Besides who isn’t working with a cordless impact nowadays? Break it with your bar and zip it off with your impact which you’ll have right there anyways. Also I just use my $15 flex type 150lb torque wrench as a breaker bar usually, it’s the same price as a breaker bar and it has the added function of letting me know just how much torque I’m using so I don’t break it or the fastener, then I can get some penetrating oil and/or my torch if it’s going to exceed the bars limit. And my experience is if it’s going to exceed the bars limit chances are it’s going to sheer the bolt off anyways which I don’t want, I’d rather keep coaxing it with penetrating oil, acceptable torque and heat.
I'm thinking of getting the 1/2 inch, like these guys; but why wouldn't someone get the hex end impact driver instead of a 1/4 impact wrench for the smaller option? Won't the hex do the same thing as the 1/4, but be more versatile, and save me from buying a third tool? I'm new at this, so I'm not sure.
@@WorkshopAddict I'm thinking of getting a 1/2" CORDED impact wrench. I'm thinking it will mostly be used for lug nuts, suspension systems (one day), and mostly easy to access places -- so the cord won't be in the way. Then, maybe I'd get a 3/8" straight wrench (battery powered). I was doing my brakes, and dreaming of the straight wrench. I think I have my head spinning now! I'm pretty new at working on cars. I have a Highlander, and just did my brakes, and parking brake. I will need to do the 2WD axles one day soon. Also, thinking about doing the suspension. Would you still stick to your recommendations in the video? Thank you
@@Marc_B. What corded model has the guts to do large rusty suspension? Most we see are 200 ft lbs when corded. Air tools would make more sense. Shoot me a link to the corded model.
@@WorkshopAddict I'm looking at this: www.harborfreight.com/12-in-heavy-duty-extreme-torque-impact-wrench-64120.html It has 1050ft lbs of break-away torque.
Im replacing the lower and upper control arms, the pitman arm and idler arm on my 2003 Chevy Silverado. Would a mid torque impact gun be strong enough to tackle the job. Im out west so rust isn’t an issue. TIA!
@4rmDEC2FRE IMHO, suspension work is for a high torque. Maybe the new top of the mine Milwaukee Mid Torques might work for you, but depending the brand, go high torque.
question is, what is the practicality of a 1/4" impact wrench? What fastener is that stubborn that you'd have to use a 1/4? Why not just use the 3/8" for really unusual jobs on these fasters and just use basic hand tools for all-else maintenance wise?
I’m a little late to the party here but I figure I’ll weigh in. I’m a professional technician and I have a lot of those tools in your video. The short answer is you need all of them.. but with that I have to 100% agree if your just getting into it the mid torque is the way to go for general repairs. However I disagree with the setup.. for example a tire tech would be better off with the big boy (7152) due to way to many people over torquing lugs. And as for general work.. having the 1/2 inch is more beneficial to max out torque. Reason being is at least for me.. my mid torque 1/2 is rarely brought out..and I almost regret buying it. My mid torque go to is the 3/8 with the smaller battery. Can’t get the job done? Switch battery to the 5ah and it comes off. My reason for this is the 3/8 sockets are smaller and easier to fit into right spaces. Brakes and light suspension work I find best to use this because you have little room to fit the sockets let alone tools in there. Same with in the engine bay.. mounting brackets and a lot up top comes off with either the 3/8 impact or 3/8 ratchet. Small spaces? That’s when the 1/4 inch come into play. Anything small gets taken off with them.. faster, lighter and easier to fit in the area you need them. What I’m trying to say is at least I’m my reality I need every tool on that bench.. and each has its place. But for just buying in or starting out 3/8 is the sweet spot where 60% of car work can be accomplished. I’d recommend getting the 3/8 mid torque w5152 and the 3/8 cordless wrench and build from there. W7152 next then worry about 1/4 after. Side note: the settings on the 5152 save you from breaking smaller fasteners.. the hand tight is great for valve cover and tranny pan bolts and torque from there.. or the wrench tight 2nd setting for when you want to send them home but don’t want to break anything. I can’t remember off the top of my head but I think it’s 10 and 30 foot pounds respectively. Now sorry for the book.. but that’s my opinion as a flat rate tech.
WorkshopAddict I have been looking at 1/4 cordless impact wrenches and have it narrowed down to either the milwaukee 2452 or the ingersoll rand w1120. I like that the ingersoll has a little over double the torque but how do they compare in size? I already have a milwaukee m18 2754 and love it. It handles most automotive work with ease. Is the ingersoll w1120 any smaller than the milwaukee 2754 with a compact battery on it?
Yes, The IR is smaller. It is a very nice small unit, I just wish IR had more battery options. Some of these 12v IR batteries do not even have a fuel gauge.
The one thing everyone should take away is don't spend money on Snap-on Cordless they are not that good for the prices they charge. Now I won't knock the hand tools they are quality but don't go into debt over them either.
This was a great video. Ive seen others u made but this made me subscribe. Dont hate me but i love the mid range brushless ridgid and then i use the brushless ridgid impact DRILL for all other light work (Same batts) very versatile tool
Yes, without issue. The IR mid-torque is 450 ft lbs and the Milwaukee Mid-torque is 600 ft lbs. Even the Dewalt mid-torque rated at 330 ft lbs will do what your wanting to do with ease.
I'm looking to get a 3/8" driver, but they are so much more expensive than the 1/2" ones. I'm looking at a Makita 1/2" with a reducer, saves over $100 vs getting a 3/8" one imo, besides it's brushless so you can stop on a dime
good point's, but having a Milwaukee 1/2" drive monster impact, the 3/8" drive impact. and the 3/8" paddle wheel rachet. I'm amazed how often I'm forced to use a hand held 1/4" rachet,with 1/4" socket's, n still have a tough time getting some part's loose. especially on car's. and just over a year ago,with the 3/8" impact, forgot to use lower setting and broke a mounting bolt,on a brake caliper. LOL, ,, however, these cordless tool's,save a lot of time, when I can use them. the paddle wheel,and magnetic socket,make quick work of spark plug's. good point's.
How to choose the best cordless impact wrench? Easy, buy Milwaukee. Not only are they better in every way, they're also cheaper. Some of their newer ones have ONE-KEY tech which allows you to program them with whatever torque settings you want and save custom settings.
The old Ryobi mid-torque was underpowered. The current model holds up pretty well to a low-end pneumatic. TTI always keeps their Ryobi stuff a a couple years behind their Rigid line, and their Rigid stuff a couple of years behind their Milwaukee stuff (for example, TTI just released first-gen Ryobi brushless, and Milwaukee is now on to third gen).
Yeah I ordered a Ingersoll 7152 so I can put a 1/4 in adaptor on it to put a 7/16 socket to remove my license plate, it works great.
You said it all quite nicely. I purchased a 20V DeWalt DCF894 (mid-torque) impact last November, intending to use it on my cars and around the home. I briefly looked at the DCF899 model (high-torque), but it weighs almost twice as much. It has more power, of course, but if you typically don't need it, why put up with the larger size and weight? The 894 has more features, and also has a 1/2" anvil. As a DIYer, I bought it to speed removal of lug nuts on my cars and other related tasks. It seems to do what I ask of it, so it was a good purchase for me.
Great information from guys who have done it, and are doing it all day.
Thanks Mike!
Good review. When working under a vehicle, it is prudent to wear eye protection. Lots of eye injuries and foreign bodies in the eye happen without eye protection.
I think the ideal setup would be a 1/2 high torque impact wrench, 3/8 compact impact wrench and 1/4 ratchet
Thanks for the info, Chaps! I was confused what to get - now I know.
Great Review ! My Two RIDGID Tools are The Gen5X 1/4in 3 Speed Impact Driver and The Gen4X 1/2 Impact Wrench .
I'm glad you guys made this video. I have the big Milwaukee 1/2" high torque impact and I hardly ever use that heavy bastard. Its way too heavy and large. My two I use are the Milwaukee fuel 3/8" or my Ridgid 1/2" gen 4x impact's. Between those two I can break nearly every bolt loose. I should have waited for the Milwaukee midtorque, but they took too long to come out with it.
Midtorque models are by far the most useful impacts. They have the best balance of size and power. Good video and I'm glad y'all made it to dispell many rumors of more is better.
I agree... 1/2" and 1/4" impacts and socket. I figure I can always use a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter if I ever need any light duty usage of my existing 3/8" sockets. I also agree on the weight. I have the big Milwaukee 1/2" bone crusher and it is GREAT for the times you need it. But 90% of the rest of the time I want something smaller and lighter just for buzzing bolts off and on to save my wrist. Which is why I'm looking at a compact 1/2" impact for every day use. A lot of new folks don't understand that with a air/cordless ratchet you're supposed to first break loose the bolt by using the handle of the tool and THEN use the motor/air to run it out.
I work in oil and gas piping industry... All huge nuts and bolts. .. Big boy High Torque is what i need
I use my makita 1/4 impact driver for 90% of my cars bolts, I think I’ll be buying a 1/2 impact soon though cause it’s not ideal for any suspension work and only sometimes will remove a lugnut. The only negative that I’m not crazy about with my impact driver is I always have to use an adapter, it usually causes some play and if you use the full power of the tool it’s easy to break the adaptors, although I haven’t broke a makita ImpactX bit or adapter yet. I do want a 3/8 impact as well just cause then I won’t have to switch adapters but then my awesome little 1/4 won’t get much use =( if I was choosing over again I’d go with 3/8 first, that’s what I mostly use my impact driver for, and the next most common drive size would be 1/2 working on my car which is inevitable when doing anything that requires taking off the wheel, which is a lot of stuff, brakes and suspension mainly, the two things that get the most wear in a car.
Awesome review. Sooo right. I only see that huge high torque on big rusty trucks and tractors. Perfect video for any Greaser!
C'mon Brian. everyone knows that you need 800 pounds when you remove those 10MM battery hold down straps. LOL
If they are rusty we get out the 1" D handle impact. LOL.....
Can i use the mid torque in replacing my tire wheels for my ram 1500 truck?
Yes
What happened to the saying "it's better to have and not need rather than not have and need"
When you started paying more for stuff and noticed you never used it, because you might’ve needed
I want to install a lift kit to my tacoma. Is the mid torque impact wrench enough to complete the job.
hey what would work great for remove a harmonic balancer bolt
Even a Milwaukee Mid-Torque should be able to pull one off most engines. Max torque on one that I have ever seen was 210 ft lbs.
Those are the nicest impact guns on the market they look extremely well made.👍🏼
Do you think you guys can do a review on the drill and impact driver ?
M18 Fuel Mid Torque. Anything it can't do gets a big ratcheting breaker bar with a cheater. Which is a good thing to have anyway because some things you just can't get an impact on.
taiden
Breaker bars are just that...not ratcheting. .. Ur an idiot except for the part of Milwaukee. .. Theyre the best so i will let it slide
There are ratcheting breaker bars. They use stronger mechanicals and have maybe 12 ratcheting points instead of 48+. They work great. Pick one up sometime, I bet you'll love it!
RAM TRUCKS nah breaker bars are bars designed to break loose bolts, personally I think a ratcheting breaker bar is silly because the point of a breaker bar is a simple, low cost tool that is supposed to not only be stronger than a ratchet but also cheaper to replace if you do break it, add a ratcheting mechanism and you’re adding more cost and higher chance of failure, both of which are counterintuitive for the purpose of the tool. Besides who isn’t working with a cordless impact nowadays? Break it with your bar and zip it off with your impact which you’ll have right there anyways. Also I just use my $15 flex type 150lb torque wrench as a breaker bar usually, it’s the same price as a breaker bar and it has the added function of letting me know just how much torque I’m using so I don’t break it or the fastener, then I can get some penetrating oil and/or my torch if it’s going to exceed the bars limit. And my experience is if it’s going to exceed the bars limit chances are it’s going to sheer the bolt off anyways which I don’t want, I’d rather keep coaxing it with penetrating oil, acceptable torque and heat.
If you buy your self 50 swivels you can go anywhere on a car.
I'm thinking of getting the 1/2 inch, like these guys; but why wouldn't someone get the hex end impact driver instead of a 1/4 impact wrench for the smaller option? Won't the hex do the same thing as the 1/4, but be more versatile, and save me from buying a third tool? I'm new at this, so I'm not sure.
It would save you from buying another tool, but it will make your 1/4" impact longer because you will have to use an adapter to use a socket.
@@WorkshopAddict I'm thinking of getting a 1/2" CORDED impact wrench. I'm thinking it will mostly be used for lug nuts, suspension systems (one day), and mostly easy to access places -- so the cord won't be in the way. Then, maybe I'd get a 3/8" straight wrench (battery powered). I was doing my brakes, and dreaming of the straight wrench. I think I have my head spinning now! I'm pretty new at working on cars. I have a Highlander, and just did my brakes, and parking brake. I will need to do the 2WD axles one day soon. Also, thinking about doing the suspension. Would you still stick to your recommendations in the video? Thank you
@@Marc_B. What corded model has the guts to do large rusty suspension? Most we see are 200 ft lbs when corded. Air tools would make more sense. Shoot me a link to the corded model.
@@WorkshopAddict I'm looking at this: www.harborfreight.com/12-in-heavy-duty-extreme-torque-impact-wrench-64120.html
It has 1050ft lbs of break-away torque.
Im replacing the lower and upper control arms, the pitman arm and idler arm on my 2003 Chevy Silverado. Would a mid torque impact gun be strong enough to tackle the job. Im out west so rust isn’t an issue. TIA!
@4rmDEC2FRE IMHO, suspension work is for a high torque. Maybe the new top of the mine Milwaukee Mid Torques might work for you, but depending the brand, go high torque.
@ understood! Thank you very much for sharing your expertise!
question is, what is the practicality of a 1/4" impact wrench? What fastener is that stubborn that you'd have to use a 1/4? Why not just use the 3/8" for really unusual jobs on these fasters and just use basic hand tools for all-else maintenance wise?
For my brakes on my 06 4 runner and wheel work. Should I need mid torque 1/2 inch?
Yes
I’m a little late to the party here but I figure I’ll weigh in. I’m a professional technician and I have a lot of those tools in your video. The short answer is you need all of them.. but with that I have to 100% agree if your just getting into it the mid torque is the way to go for general repairs. However I disagree with the setup.. for example a tire tech would be better off with the big boy (7152) due to way to many people over torquing lugs. And as for general work.. having the 1/2 inch is more beneficial to max out torque. Reason being is at least for me.. my mid torque 1/2 is rarely brought out..and I almost regret buying it. My mid torque go to is the 3/8 with the smaller battery. Can’t get the job done? Switch battery to the 5ah and it comes off. My reason for this is the 3/8 sockets are smaller and easier to fit into right spaces. Brakes and light suspension work I find best to use this because you have little room to fit the sockets let alone tools in there. Same with in the engine bay.. mounting brackets and a lot up top comes off with either the 3/8 impact or 3/8 ratchet. Small spaces? That’s when the 1/4 inch come into play. Anything small gets taken off with them.. faster, lighter and easier to fit in the area you need them. What I’m trying to say is at least I’m my reality I need every tool on that bench.. and each has its place. But for just buying in or starting out 3/8 is the sweet spot where 60% of car work can be accomplished. I’d recommend getting the 3/8 mid torque w5152 and the 3/8 cordless wrench and build from there. W7152 next then worry about 1/4 after.
Side note: the settings on the 5152 save you from breaking smaller fasteners.. the hand tight is great for valve cover and tranny pan bolts and torque from there.. or the wrench tight 2nd setting for when you want to send them home but don’t want to break anything. I can’t remember off the top of my head but I think it’s 10 and 30 foot pounds respectively. Now sorry for the book.. but that’s my opinion as a flat rate tech.
Great review again
What do you think I should get? I’m trying to take out a seized lower shock bolt. I’ve used a torch and 5’ breaker with no luck
No Impact can do what a torch can do! Can you get a cutting wheel in there?
WorkshopAddict no, it’s a lower strut bolt. It’s in a pretty lousy spot behind the hub.
@@thomasdavidson7367 Then go big, the W7152.
Last time I had a flat fix the guy the insurance C0. sent out used one of these and it make short work of changing the tire !
Tell me application and specific nm range
Awesome video! Any news if IR will make a new version of the w7150?
Mark SkarAudio We assume they are going to mid-year. They have to to even be in that game now.
I'm looking to buy a impact wrench for emergency only (removing flat tires). Any recommendations?
WorkshopAddict I have been looking at 1/4 cordless impact wrenches and have it narrowed down to either the milwaukee 2452 or the ingersoll rand w1120. I like that the ingersoll has a little over double the torque but how do they compare in size? I already have a milwaukee m18 2754 and love it. It handles most automotive work with ease. Is the ingersoll w1120 any smaller than the milwaukee 2754 with a compact battery on it?
Yes, The IR is smaller. It is a very nice small unit, I just wish IR had more battery options. Some of these 12v IR batteries do not even have a fuel gauge.
Mid torque.. just got the 1/2 it’s the bomb
The one thing everyone should take away is don't spend money on Snap-on Cordless they are not that good for the prices they charge. Now I won't knock the hand tools they are quality but don't go into debt over them either.
Or which store sale htem
Where can i buy those tools
Amazon, Ohio Power Tool, they are all over the web. acme tools might have them in stores.
Wb for drive line
This was a great video. Ive seen others u made but this made me subscribe.
Dont hate me but i love the mid range brushless ridgid and then i use the brushless ridgid impact DRILL for all other light work (Same batts) very versatile tool
I don't really see the value of the big ones if you work in a shop with air.
Will a mid torque take off my lug nuts off my truck and take off my mower blades off my zero turn mower?
Yes, without issue. The IR mid-torque is 450 ft lbs and the Milwaukee Mid-torque is 600 ft lbs. Even the Dewalt mid-torque rated at 330 ft lbs will do what your wanting to do with ease.
I'm looking to get a 3/8" driver, but they are so much more expensive than the 1/2" ones. I'm looking at a Makita 1/2" with a reducer, saves over $100 vs getting a 3/8" one imo, besides it's brushless so you can stop on a dime
good point's, but having a Milwaukee 1/2" drive monster impact, the 3/8" drive impact. and the 3/8" paddle wheel rachet. I'm amazed how often I'm forced to use a hand held 1/4" rachet,with 1/4" socket's, n still have a tough time getting some part's loose. especially on car's. and just over a year ago,with the 3/8" impact, forgot to use lower setting and broke a mounting bolt,on a brake caliper. LOL, ,, however, these cordless tool's,save a lot of time, when I can use them. the paddle wheel,and magnetic socket,make quick work of spark plug's. good point's.
As soon as he said removing crank bolts on the high impact 😬 (thats the reason im here)
Power is like pussy it's better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it.....buy the big one
LOL.... so many things could be said about your statement. LOL
fuzzy wuzzy right get the big one
The big stuff I use an old 1950's REAL steel fence post. FREE.
buy them ALL (but dont let your wife know)
Eeeh, you forgot the newtonmeters
Tells you to buy the wrench that's right for you, then tells you to buy the mid torque lol.
Psh everyone knows you need 800lbs to remove those brake caliper caps
How to choose the best cordless impact wrench? Easy, buy Milwaukee. Not only are they better in every way, they're also cheaper. Some of their newer ones have ONE-KEY tech which allows you to program them with whatever torque settings you want and save custom settings.
adamaj I don't think it was a brand topic. They're comparing the sizes and weight issues along with torque busting needs
No such thing as too much torque.
I get 800lbs just from a flick of da wrist.
350 ft lbs is not enough
For some it is.
Lies blasphemy
The people complaining about torque are the same ones who buy Ryobi tools.
The old Ryobi mid-torque was underpowered. The current model holds up pretty well to a low-end pneumatic. TTI always keeps their Ryobi stuff a a couple years behind their Rigid line, and their Rigid stuff a couple of years behind their Milwaukee stuff (for example, TTI just released first-gen Ryobi brushless, and Milwaukee is now on to third gen).
I would like to buy an impact wrench for emergency ( mostly flat tires). Any recommendations?