I was just gifted a similar make and model. This is my first project task for the rebuild I can’t wait to read this when I’m all finished with the restore. Thank have k you so much for making this video I intend to do the same with other vehicles and give you all the glory for being the one to teach the future techs of America.
On mine, i ended up separating the steering wheel lock portion of it, and shit canned those parts. I made the mistake of previously repairing the ignition switch and preserving the steering wheel lock. The problem is that the steering wheel lock is a lot of mechanical stress on the aluminum t shape casting that turns the electrical part of the switch. Also, you dont have to pull the steering wheel. I dropped the 2 bolts so the column dropped down, then with a mirror and an angled pick, i pressed the release button that allowed the whole mechanism to come out. Furthermore, you dont need to remove the ignition tumbler out either. Just remove the panel that surrounds the switch and theres enough room to finnegle it out the instrument cluster hole. While its apart, replace the electrical side of the switch (3 screws) if the electrical section is faulty. If your problem was the key sticking in there due to the burrs not letting the steering wheel lock release, the steering wheel lock mechanism should be shit canned anyway. Inspect the vacuum shutoff switch for leaks, and if any oil is present in the vacuum section then u know the shut off actuator has a leaky diaphragm allowing oil from the inj pump into the vacuum system. Good luck yall and feel free to ask any questions you may have.
Today, I successfully completed installation of the steering wheel security lock. I followed Impalaman's excellent video. I want to add a few items that might be helpful. First, I have a 380se which is not diesel powered. When I removed the steering lock, I was surprised to find there were no vacuum ports on the lock. However, the one I purchased from Mercedes had the two ports as shown in Impalaman's video. So I removed the two vacuum nozzles since I figured the vacuum was for diesel powered MBZ not gasoline .. That was correct as I found out. Secondly, I had a very difficult time removing the 10mm screw to remove the steering wheel. Finally I applied a $20 HF heat gun and it easily cracked with a breaker bar. I held the steering wheel with a 2x4 placed through the lower opening on the wheel and the end resting on the bottom sill of the door. This gave a solid stop for the wrenching. I did not lock the wheel for fear of damaging it. I did not use my impact gun because the 10mm screw is brass and there have been many instances of stripping it. Thirdly, as I mentioned in a previous post, your key has to be in position#1 to remove the plug at rear of the steering lock... In addition, the key must be in Position #1 when removing the lock and installing the new one or you will not be able to fully press the little "button". Also position #1 to remove and install the black buzzer switch near the key hole.. NOTE: if your key won't turn, try pulling it towards you very slightly while turning it..
@@ImpalamansGarage Do you know how to open the 126 key cylinder so the tumbler can be accessed to re-key it (by replacing the wafers that are worn) and do so in a way that doesn't damage it . This would be very valuable info for 126ers who want to keep original key. Mercedes can make keys based on VIN but no longer make tumblers to match keys. The 116, 124 and 123 have removable covers but the 126 doesn't. Can you figure out how to get the cover off ? If anyone can, it would be you?😁 Thanks.
A couple of things to remember if you are replacing the steering lock. The ignition key must be in the #1 position to be able to remove the 7 wire connector plug at rear of the steering lock. Otherwise you cannot remove it or the lock itself. The steering lock has a pin that you must push to remove the steering lock. Again, the ignition key must be in the #1 position to be able to push the pin down far enough so you can remove the lock from the dash..
Thanks for great videos and the entertainment you provide along the way ! A+++ I changed the cylinder on my 83’ 300SD and after few turns , it locked and took me almost 40 min to turn key . I decided to never take key out to avoid such nightmare again . I will wait for an other video of your about finding out if the issues are in the steering column instead of the cylinder or keys are worned out . On another note any AC overhaul video coming soon ? I need to overhaul my AC completely. Thanks and have a pleasant Easter Sunday !!
Thanks for the instructive video.. I am about to do what you just did in your video. (Finally did it today, a year later! 😀). Yesterday, I had a stuck key and PANICKED!, fee4ling stranded. Fortunately, I had purchased a new tumbler years ago. I replaced the tumbler and everything was fine. This morning I had no trouble turning the key. Went to Home Depot and when I came out , key was stuck. PANIC! After wiggling, shaking and swearing, the key turned. So I am home and have ordered a steering lock. I have left the car with wheel turned right (not locked) and key in tumbler on #1. Questions: What would happen if I turn key to home and then turn to start and key won't move? ? If my key is stuck and won't turn, will this force me to replace the steering lock? Are any special tools required? The only good thing about this is being able to sit in the seat..haha.. Can this lock be disabled? No one is going to steal a 126 Mercedes because it costs to much to fix.. Thanks again. Your work is appreciated.. I remember when you were excited to have 200 subscribers..Now, over 6000 😀🤔
When you park and remove the key and then put slight pressure on the wheel in either direction so that the steering lock can be heard clicking into position, this clearly means the lock is engaged. Unfortunately it also means that the steering column and lock are in a little bit of a bind. The lock is sticking into the hole where it goes but it's being jammed up against one side or the other depending on which way you moved the wheel to get it to lock. UNLOCKING it from this state is the tricky bit. You have to wiggle the steering wheel left and right while turning on the key. It SHOULD free itself. This whole situation is exacerbated if the lock cylinder is worn out and the key is ALREADY having a hard time turning. It makes for a confusing situation. You don't know if the lock cylinder is bad or the steering lock is bad. Personally I think the steering lock on these cars was an after-thought add-on by Mercedes. Just my opinion. It would be far better served to be inside the column like other makes. You could in theory remove the steering lock from the car and cut off the end that sticks into the column. Then reinstall it and there would be no way for the wheel to be locked. I've not done this or even attempted it. Just a theory.
@@ImpalamansGarage Thanks for response. My vehicle is in my garage, parked and I left the ignition key in, pointed to #1 and left steering wheel turned so wheel not locked. First thing in Morn I will remove the new tumbler, wait for the new steering lock and start taking things off. Fortunately, several years ago, I bought the 10mm allen head screw(?) made for removing steering wheel..Your video made the process clear. I probably wouldn't make it a DIY without your video. The best part is I can sit on the comfy seat doing much of the work..😄😁 I'm hoping fresh parts will solve the issue. Thanks again. I'll let you know if I succeed..
I appreciate your detailed videos since I just picked up one of these cars recently. I do believe you can get new keys made from the dealer that match your VIN, but I'll have to find out since I only have one key and have been meaning to get at least one more made. Anyway, I think lubrication is probably part of the problem. You could try official MB "special grease", part # 001-989-42-51-10 for the protrusion into the steering column (it is also useful for other applications such as the sunroof, as I am told). For the cylinders, there is MB "lubricating grease" spray, part # A 002-989-06-51-09 which is meant for this application. I would recommend lubricating all of the cylinders in the car, even brand new ones since factories seem to skip this step these days in my experience.
I am late to the party but I just went to MB with my registration and ID and poof a new key was delivered to the dealership in about a week. Did that right after i bought my W126
Are we sure the black plastic housing of the ignition tumbler screws out? I believe I have somehow freed the ignition tumbler, but the black plastic housing is still holding up removal; so, Mr. Impalaman is clearly screwing out the housing. Is this on all W126? I'm struggling with a 1990 300 SE. Help!
In 1989 the method by which you remove the lock cylinder changed. Different tools are used. See part one of this video series at the 2 minute 53 second mark: th-cam.com/video/smjfMOeafmY/w-d-xo.html
There is nothing wrong with either of these steering lock devices - original or the replacement. They function flawlessly outside of the car with the key installed onto them. It's only when you install it on the car and tighten everything down that the problem arises. An extremely convincing argument will need to be developed otherwise.
One thing I do is just turn the steering wheel 45 degrees to the right when I park, keeps the lock from engaging so I dont have to find the sweet spot the next time I drive. But you gotta do it everytime
Hi, Enjoy your video that give me the confidence to go for something never try before. Just a quick question, since you've already successfully replaced the steering lock assembly, in your opinion can you still remove the steering lock assembly what if the key get stuck in the ignition? Thanks Al
I think if the key gets stuck in the cylinder and cannot be removed, you will probably need to drill out the cylinder lock, however I have not personally gone through this exercise.
Thanks for thr reply. I've done changing the entire steering lock assembly. The ignition switch is acting up intermittently turn on the glow plugs while driving. I figure it's a bad contact, engaging and disengaging and engaging prompt the glow plugs relay think it's at the starting position. I've ask around, no one seems to encounter this situation. Thanks for your very detailed video instruction. Have a happy holiday season. Cheerio Al
Awesome video.. I have to do the EXACT same thing... Identical problem on my `87 420 sel. I ordered the Febi Cylinder.. Having both cylinders out of the car, the original key was absolutely sticking really bad...the febi Was buttery smooth... However when I installed the new cylinder it was still sticking.. Having watched your video, Now I'm wondering if I should still purchase the other part, Steering lock.. Any suggestions of where I should go from here?. I was thinking about pulling the steering lock out of my parts car which is a 1991 560SEL not sure if it's gonna fit though. Keep making these videos ... Love them
After this video I am not convinced that all of these key rotation issues are related to cylinders or the steering lock device. Honestly I need to dig a little further and mess around with alignment of the steering column and/or the steering lock device.
I finally watched your whole video. the steering lock mechanical parts that are responsible for the actual movement of the lock bolt into the steering shaft have to do hard work - that sticking feeling - then if the bolt doesn't line perfectly with the hole in the column can't turn the key. Since you now have a spare I suggest you take one apart and examine the guts that move the bolt when you turn the key. By removing the guts the key will turn easily - no steering wheel lock- and you can keep your original key. DANGER!!! THE OTHER KEY INSERTED INTO YOUR DOOR LOCK CAN MESS UP THE PINS IN YOUR LOCK THEN THE DOOR LOCK WON'T WORK☹😖😢😢😢 It can be a bad accident. I do believe you can get a new exact key from a Mercedes dealer when I did @ $75 or a new tumbler with 1 exact match key $100 & something, they know your key by your vin # so you have to show ID & registration to prove ownership. I hope that might help.
I love your attitude about whatever you are doing. Not sure what your lock problem was/is but usually the guts of the lock mechanism that engage the bolt into the steering column wear out then you can't turn the key to unlock the column, start the car or turn the wheel. Your new lock should have worked smoothly. I took the guts out of mine, no locking column key turns nice. I got new OE lock cylinder from the dealer with a key that matches the door. At the time I think around $80 They make it by your vin number, you have to prove it;s yours. WARNING!! that other ignition key when accidentally inserted into the door will destroy the lock pins in the door BE CAREFULL!!!!!!
I hate to say this. But I would remove the darn lock plunger from that car all together. I hear people junked perfectly good cars because of that darn lock.
Par for the course I play on. 😅 I think it's an alignment issue. Going to loosen bolts and move things around. The assembly worked flawlessly after I installed it, but before I tightened the clamp and reinstalled the wheel.
I was just gifted a similar make and model. This is my first project task for the rebuild I can’t wait to read this when I’m all finished with the restore. Thank have k you so much for making this video I intend to do the same with other vehicles and give you all the glory for being the one to teach the future techs of America.
@angelvelasquez7086 Good luck on your new project ! Thanks for watching !
On mine, i ended up separating the steering wheel lock portion of it, and shit canned those parts. I made the mistake of previously repairing the ignition switch and preserving the steering wheel lock. The problem is that the steering wheel lock is a lot of mechanical stress on the aluminum t shape casting that turns the electrical part of the switch. Also, you dont have to pull the steering wheel. I dropped the 2 bolts so the column dropped down, then with a mirror and an angled pick, i pressed the release button that allowed the whole mechanism to come out. Furthermore, you dont need to remove the ignition tumbler out either. Just remove the panel that surrounds the switch and theres enough room to finnegle it out the instrument cluster hole.
While its apart, replace the electrical side of the switch (3 screws) if the electrical section is faulty. If your problem was the key sticking in there due to the burrs not letting the steering wheel lock release, the steering wheel lock mechanism should be shit canned anyway. Inspect the vacuum shutoff switch for leaks, and if any oil is present in the vacuum section then u know the shut off actuator has a leaky diaphragm allowing oil from the inj pump into the vacuum system. Good luck yall and feel free to ask any questions you may have.
Today, I successfully completed installation of the steering wheel security lock. I followed Impalaman's excellent video. I want to add a few items that might be helpful. First, I have a 380se which is not diesel powered. When I removed the steering lock, I was surprised to find there were no vacuum ports on the lock. However, the one I purchased from Mercedes had the two ports as shown in Impalaman's video. So I removed the two vacuum nozzles since I figured the vacuum was for diesel powered MBZ not gasoline .. That was correct as I found out.
Secondly, I had a very difficult time removing the 10mm screw to remove the steering wheel. Finally I applied a $20 HF heat gun and it easily cracked with a breaker bar. I held the steering wheel with a 2x4 placed through the lower opening on the wheel and the end resting on the bottom sill of the door. This gave a solid stop for the wrenching. I did not lock the wheel for fear of damaging it. I did not use my impact gun because the 10mm screw is brass and there have been many instances of stripping it.
Thirdly, as I mentioned in a previous post, your key has to be in position#1 to remove the plug at rear of the steering lock... In addition, the key must be in Position #1 when removing the lock and installing the new one or you will not be able to fully press the little "button". Also position #1 to remove and install the black buzzer switch near the key hole..
NOTE: if your key won't turn, try pulling it towards you very slightly while turning it..
Excellent tips! Thanks for sharing with the Classic Mercedes community!
@@ImpalamansGarage Do you know how to open the 126 key cylinder so the tumbler can be accessed to re-key it (by replacing the wafers that are worn) and do so in a way that doesn't damage it . This would be very valuable info for 126ers who want to keep original key. Mercedes can make keys based on VIN but no longer make tumblers to match keys. The 116, 124 and 123 have removable covers but the 126 doesn't. Can you figure out how to get the cover off ? If anyone can, it would be you?😁 Thanks.
Very dedicated work, what an attitude despite "no net result". Thank you very much.
Well done!!! God bless you. !! Thank you so much
A couple of things to remember if you are replacing the steering lock.
The ignition key must be in the #1 position to be able to remove the 7 wire connector plug at rear of the steering lock. Otherwise you cannot remove it or the lock itself.
The steering lock has a pin that you must push to remove the steering lock. Again, the ignition key must be in the #1 position to be able to push the pin down far enough so you can remove the lock from the dash..
Thanks for great videos and the entertainment you provide along the way ! A+++
I changed the cylinder on my 83’ 300SD and after few turns , it locked and took me almost 40 min to turn key . I decided to never take key out to avoid such nightmare again . I will wait for an other video of your about finding out if the issues are in the steering column instead of the cylinder or keys are worned out .
On another note any AC overhaul video coming soon ?
I need to overhaul my AC completely.
Thanks and have a pleasant Easter Sunday !!
Well..... I'd hate to overhaul my perfectly functioning air conditioner. 🤣🤣
@@ImpalamansGarage totally agreed with ya !!!
This is a great video thank you!
Thanks for the instructive video.. I am about to do what you just did in your video. (Finally did it today, a year later! 😀). Yesterday, I had a stuck key and PANICKED!, fee4ling stranded. Fortunately, I had purchased a new tumbler years ago. I replaced the tumbler and everything was fine.
This morning I had no trouble turning the key. Went to Home Depot and when I came out , key was stuck. PANIC! After wiggling, shaking and swearing, the key turned. So I am home and have ordered a steering lock. I have left the car with wheel turned right (not locked) and key in tumbler on #1.
Questions: What would happen if I turn key to home and then turn to start and key won't move? ?
If my key is stuck and won't turn, will this force me to replace the steering lock?
Are any special tools required? The only good thing about this is being able to sit in the seat..haha..
Can this lock be disabled? No one is going to steal a 126 Mercedes because it costs to much to fix..
Thanks again. Your work is appreciated.. I remember when you were excited to have 200 subscribers..Now, over 6000
😀🤔
When you park and remove the key and then put slight pressure on the wheel in either direction so that the steering lock can be heard clicking into position, this clearly means the lock is engaged. Unfortunately it also means that the steering column and lock are in a little bit of a bind. The lock is sticking into the hole where it goes but it's being jammed up against one side or the other depending on which way you moved the wheel to get it to lock. UNLOCKING it from this state is the tricky bit. You have to wiggle the steering wheel left and right while turning on the key. It SHOULD free itself. This whole situation is exacerbated if the lock cylinder is worn out and the key is ALREADY having a hard time turning. It makes for a confusing situation. You don't know if the lock cylinder is bad or the steering lock is bad. Personally I think the steering lock on these cars was an after-thought add-on by Mercedes. Just my opinion. It would be far better served to be inside the column like other makes. You could in theory remove the steering lock from the car and
cut off the end that sticks into the column. Then reinstall it and there would be no way for the wheel to be locked. I've not done this or even attempted it. Just a theory.
@@ImpalamansGarage Thanks for response. My vehicle is in my garage, parked and I left the ignition key in, pointed to #1 and left steering wheel turned so wheel not locked. First thing in Morn I will remove the new tumbler, wait for the new steering lock and start taking things off. Fortunately, several years ago, I bought the 10mm allen head screw(?) made for removing steering wheel..Your video made the process clear. I probably wouldn't make it a DIY without your video. The best part is I can sit on the comfy seat doing much of the work..😄😁 I'm hoping fresh parts will solve the issue. Thanks again. I'll let you know if I succeed..
I appreciate your detailed videos since I just picked up one of these cars recently. I do believe you can get new keys made from the dealer that match your VIN, but I'll have to find out since I only have one key and have been meaning to get at least one more made. Anyway, I think lubrication is probably part of the problem. You could try official MB "special grease", part # 001-989-42-51-10 for the protrusion into the steering column (it is also useful for other applications such as the sunroof, as I am told). For the cylinders, there is MB "lubricating grease" spray, part # A 002-989-06-51-09 which is meant for this application. I would recommend lubricating all of the cylinders in the car, even brand new ones since factories seem to skip this step these days in my experience.
I am late to the party but I just went to MB with my registration and ID and poof a new key was delivered to the dealership in about a week. Did that right after i bought my W126
Sounds good. I may check with my local dealer.
I had done the same thing a few years ago when I picked up my 84 300sd. dealer had it shipped from Illinois to Cali in about a week.
Are we sure the black plastic housing of the ignition tumbler screws out? I believe I have somehow freed the ignition tumbler, but the black plastic housing is still holding up removal; so, Mr. Impalaman is clearly screwing out the housing. Is this on all W126? I'm struggling with a 1990 300 SE. Help!
In 1989 the method by which you remove the lock cylinder changed. Different tools are used. See part one of this video series at the 2 minute 53 second mark: th-cam.com/video/smjfMOeafmY/w-d-xo.html
Watch Kent Burgsma’s video on steering locks on 126 Mercedes on Mercedesorce
It could be the unit itself!
No
There is nothing wrong with either of these steering lock devices - original or the replacement. They function flawlessly outside of the car with the key installed onto them. It's only when you install it on the car and tighten everything down that the problem arises. An extremely convincing argument will need to be developed otherwise.
One thing I do is just turn the steering wheel 45 degrees to the right when I park, keeps the lock from engaging so I dont have to find the sweet spot the next time I drive. But you gotta do it everytime
Yep. We are one the same page..... now. lol...
Hi,
Enjoy your video that give me the confidence to go for something never try before. Just a quick question, since you've already successfully replaced the steering lock assembly, in your opinion can you still remove the steering lock assembly what if the key get stuck in the ignition? Thanks
Al
I think if the key gets stuck in the cylinder and cannot be removed, you will probably need to drill out the cylinder lock, however I have not personally gone through this exercise.
Thanks for thr reply. I've done changing the entire steering lock assembly. The ignition switch is acting up intermittently turn on the glow plugs while driving. I figure it's a bad contact, engaging and disengaging and engaging prompt the glow plugs relay think it's at the starting position. I've ask around, no one seems to encounter this situation. Thanks for your very detailed video instruction. Have a happy holiday season. Cheerio
Al
I meant it was acting up, and sometimes even the ac fan didn't want to turn on unless I restart the engine. it's all normal now. Thanks again
Awesome video.. I have to do the EXACT same thing... Identical problem on my `87 420 sel. I ordered the Febi Cylinder.. Having both cylinders out of the car, the original key was absolutely sticking really bad...the febi Was buttery smooth... However when I installed the new cylinder it was still sticking.. Having watched your video, Now I'm wondering if I should still purchase the other part, Steering lock.. Any suggestions of where I should go from here?.
I was thinking about pulling the steering lock out of my parts car which is a 1991 560SEL not sure if it's gonna fit though.
Keep making these videos ... Love them
After this video I am not convinced that all of these key rotation issues are related to cylinders or the steering lock device. Honestly I need to dig a little further and mess around with alignment of the steering column and/or the steering lock device.
thanks so much for the video
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
When you gonna pull the steering column out and rebuild it?
🤣 I need help with that. When you coming over?
Amazing work. I enjoy your dedication and skill applied to maintaining your Mercedes.
Thanks for video..
Next jobb for me May MB 300se 1987..
Hope I can faind thes parts New! Live in Sweden..
I finally watched your whole video. the steering lock mechanical parts that are responsible for the actual movement of the lock bolt into the steering shaft have to do hard work - that sticking feeling - then if the bolt doesn't line perfectly with the hole in the column can't turn the key. Since you now have a spare I suggest you take one apart and examine the guts that move the bolt when you turn the key. By removing the guts the key will turn easily - no steering wheel lock- and you can keep your original key. DANGER!!! THE OTHER KEY INSERTED INTO YOUR DOOR LOCK CAN MESS UP THE PINS IN YOUR LOCK THEN THE DOOR LOCK WON'T WORK☹😖😢😢😢 It can be a bad accident.
I do believe you can get a new exact key from a Mercedes dealer when I did @ $75 or a new tumbler with 1 exact match key $100 & something, they know your key by your vin # so you have to show ID & registration to prove ownership. I hope that might help.
I love your attitude about whatever you are doing.
Not sure what your lock problem was/is but usually the guts of the lock mechanism that engage the bolt into the steering column wear out then you can't turn the key to unlock the column, start the car or turn the wheel. Your new lock should have worked smoothly. I took the guts out of mine, no locking column key turns nice.
I got new OE lock cylinder from the dealer with a key that matches the door. At the time I think around $80
They make it by your vin number, you have to prove it;s yours.
WARNING!! that other ignition key when accidentally inserted into the door will destroy the lock pins in the door BE CAREFULL!!!!!!
keys are available
I did purchase a replacement key from the dealer ultimately.
nice i just brought one about two weeks ago in 2024 1989 560sec i have a 1955 mercedes i get parts from that dealer as well @@ImpalamansGarage
Great video. How frustrating for you.
Thank you, Thing 🤣🤣
Ve are Germans. Ve have sense of humor. Ha Ha. Alvedersane baby.
I was wondering if someone would get the "Adams Family" joke. lol
@@ImpalamansGarage
If you said "Capital idea Tish" I'd have lost it.
I hate to say this. But I would remove the darn lock plunger from that car all together. I hear people junked perfectly good cars because of that darn lock.
😀 well I ditched the EGR and the ALDA! LMAO
I'm beginning to understand what is going on with this thing actually. Planning a VLOG discussion on it.
Well that sucks, you still have the same issue. 😠
Par for the course I play on. 😅 I think it's an alignment issue. Going to loosen bolts and move things around. The assembly worked flawlessly after I installed it, but before I tightened the clamp and reinstalled the wheel.