Thank you so much for this video, while i was racing one of my dust seals popped out and the clip and some other stuff in there came loose and started leaking the oil all over my front disc brake so i could only use the rear one. i can go fix my bike now!
Removing the inner tube from the outer (using the "slide hammer motion") is made easier if a heat gun is used to expand the outer tube area where the seal lives. In this video, the stanchion bushing popped free of the seal prior to the seal being completely driven out.
16:33 (pause and advance to the frame to about 16 33 .25 , where he flips it over fast. The seal has a noticeable bevel on one side, my logic was wrong when I did mine and got parts slightly mixed up*, my guess was that the bevel was there to make it easier to seat into the tube, that is wrong, the bevel faces the ground , not the handle bars. If you look into the tube, you can see that the inside of the tube is not beveled, hence the squared up side of the seal mates into the tube seat, not the beveled side. Fork seals are a huge, time killer, mystery, until you've done it once, and understand the many and varied nuances of how to get it done the easy way. I spent an entire day fiddling with my seals, next time I do it will probably take about a half hour each not counting the drain time. This is a good video and should help a lot of people doing this for the first time. By the way, when you go to get the tube off, it may take a heck of a lot more force to separate, than seen here, I wound up putting the wheel yoke in the vice and slamming very hard several times to pull it apart, and a bigger note; if you forget or didn't notice that you need to remove the snap ring/clip, it will NEVER come off. *(thumpstar pit bike, similar operation sans adjustable compression/rebound).
Definitely missing the smaller bush that is seated in the tube. the inner shaft will not pass this bush unless inserted first . I learned the hard way !
@@stuartking4938 haha, I learned this entire operation the hard way, took me a full day to get both seals properly replace. I watched every video on youtube trying to find one that was specific to my bike model. I could almost do it blindfolded now, after doing it wrong so many times. It's incredibly easy, 'once you know how'.
The service manual for the Honda CRF150r calls for Honda Suspension Fluid SS-8 10W. I'll add an Amazon link for SS-8 10-W to the description for you. Careful, not all Honda bikes forks take the same oil, for example my CRF250X forks take Pro-Honda HP Fork Oil 5W) (Motorcross track bike vs enduro bike.) I start with 14 ounces (in one cylinder), then, I start measuring the distance from the liquid level to the top of the fork. I add a couple of ounces, then, take a measurement. Measuring sounds intimidating, but use the cereal box trick. Cut a strip of cardboard from a cereal box about 8 inches long and 1/2 an inch wide. Measure the distance listed in your manual and mark the cardboard. Then, dip the carboard into the cylinder up to the mark you made. If the cardboard comes out dry, add a couple more ounces. Repeat until the cardboard comes out with fluid on the cardboard.
@@kevsnotebook2508 Thank you for this video! Excellent. I am going to try this. :). Question: You say you start with 14 oz oil in the fork, then measure with 8 inch length of cardboard, and stop when it picks up some fluid. In the owners manual for the 2007 CRF150R it states (specs section under Frame) the capacity is 12.07 US oz? Thank you in advance.
Could be a couple of things. Check the chrome cylinders. If they are scratched, that could cause the seals to become damaged and leak. Could also create a path for the fluid to leak. Also, the seals could be installed upside down. It happens. Take a look at the seal position in the video. Also, you might have damaged the seals when installing them. It happens. Finally, the outer "pipe" of the cylinder may also be damaged. Scratches there could be a problem. One more thing, was the washer cupped or flat? If not flat, that could affect the seal.
It's actually going to be a lot easier on a cr85! There are fewer extra parts. I thought I had a video showing a CR70 front suspension rebuild, but, I can't find it. Sorry. The CR85 front suspension is going to be similar to the forks on this CRF230F video th-cam.com/video/xwdovymFaZc/w-d-xo.html Don't worry about the bottom bolt removal. If you spray the problem bolt in the video with penetrating oil every day for a week, it should come out much easier. Also, you may not need to remove that problem bolt.
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Really appreciate ya taking the time to make this video! Ive bookmarked it and will be watching again before I do my forks this weekend!
Thank you so much for this video, while i was racing one of my dust seals popped out and the clip and some other stuff in there came loose and started leaking the oil all over my front disc brake so i could only use the rear one. i can go fix my bike now!
Thanks for the video, going to replace the seals on my crf 150rb sometime this month
Good job. good video work! I just bought a pair of CRF150R forks and installing them on my crf230f.
Removing the inner tube from the outer (using the "slide hammer motion") is made easier if a heat gun is used to expand the outer tube area where the seal lives. In this video, the stanchion bushing popped free of the seal prior to the seal being completely driven out.
thank for the explicit video really helps
Very helpful video
16:33 (pause and advance to the frame to
about 16 33 .25 , where he flips it over
fast.
The seal has a noticeable bevel on
one side, my logic was wrong when I did
mine and got parts slightly mixed up*,
my guess was that the bevel was there to
make it easier to seat into the tube,
that is wrong, the bevel faces the ground ,
not the handle bars. If you look into
the tube, you can see that the inside of the tube
is not beveled, hence the squared up side of the seal
mates into the tube seat, not the beveled side.
Fork seals are a huge, time killer, mystery, until
you've done it once, and understand the many
and varied nuances of how to get it done the
easy way.
I spent an entire day fiddling with my seals,
next time I do it will probably take about a half hour
each not counting the drain time.
This is a good video and should help a lot of
people doing this for the first time.
By the way,
when you go to get the tube off, it may take
a heck of a lot more force to separate, than
seen here, I wound up putting the wheel yoke
in the vice and slamming very hard several times
to pull it apart, and a bigger note;
if you forget or didn't notice that you need to
remove the snap ring/clip,
it will NEVER come off.
*(thumpstar pit bike, similar operation
sans adjustable compression/rebound).
What kind of oil do I put back in the forks once I’ve drained them?
Aren’t you missing a bushing when you reassemble??
Definitely missing the smaller bush that is seated in the tube. the inner shaft will not pass this bush unless inserted first . I learned the hard way !
@@stuartking4938 haha, I learned this entire operation
the hard way, took me a full day to get both seals
properly replace. I watched every video on youtube
trying to find one that was specific to my bike model.
I could almost do it blindfolded now, after doing it
wrong so many times. It's incredibly easy, 'once you know how'.
Thank for video
What is the amount of oil? What is the thickness of the oil?
The service manual for the Honda CRF150r calls for Honda Suspension Fluid SS-8 10W. I'll add an Amazon link for SS-8 10-W to the description for you. Careful, not all Honda bikes forks take the same oil, for example my CRF250X forks take Pro-Honda HP Fork Oil 5W) (Motorcross track bike vs enduro bike.)
I start with 14 ounces (in one cylinder), then, I start measuring the distance from the liquid level to the top of the fork. I add a couple of ounces, then, take a measurement. Measuring sounds intimidating, but use the cereal box trick. Cut a strip of cardboard from a cereal box about 8 inches long and 1/2 an inch wide. Measure the distance listed in your manual and mark the cardboard. Then, dip the carboard into the cylinder up to the mark you made. If the cardboard comes out dry, add a couple more ounces. Repeat until the cardboard comes out with fluid on the cardboard.
@@kevsnotebook2508 Thank you for this video! Excellent. I am going to try this. :). Question: You say you start with 14 oz oil in the fork, then measure with 8 inch length of cardboard, and stop when it picks up some fluid. In the owners manual for the 2007 CRF150R it states (specs section under Frame) the capacity is 12.07 US oz? Thank you in advance.
hold on, the only thing that is holding the shaft from coming off when you jump a bike is the oil and dust seal?
No. The damper assembly's threaded rod that attaches to the top cap (17mm socket used to remove) holds the fork together.
can i buy fork for crf150r?
Why do you back out the compression and rebound screws?
According to the manual that protects the needle from damage.
@@Linus.Lindroth thanks
I had the same question - thanks for asking!
Is this same for the 03-07 cr85rb
The components should be very similar.
I have changed fork seal and it is leaking a little again... Why??
Because you did it wrong
@@joejefferies6668 what was wrong???
@@paekeajiab4743 either the seals or the way you installed them.
Could be a couple of things. Check the chrome cylinders. If they are scratched, that could cause the seals to become damaged and leak. Could also create a path for the fluid to leak. Also, the seals could be installed upside down. It happens. Take a look at the seal position in the video. Also, you might have damaged the seals when installing them. It happens. Finally, the outer "pipe" of the cylinder may also be damaged. Scratches there could be a problem. One more thing, was the washer cupped or flat? If not flat, that could affect the seal.
Would this work for a cr85
It's actually going to be a lot easier on a cr85! There are fewer extra parts. I thought I had a video showing a CR70 front suspension rebuild, but, I can't find it. Sorry. The CR85 front suspension is going to be similar to the forks on this CRF230F video th-cam.com/video/xwdovymFaZc/w-d-xo.html Don't worry about the bottom bolt removal. If you spray the problem bolt in the video with penetrating oil every day for a week, it should come out much easier. Also, you may not need to remove that problem bolt.
It actually looks a lot like our CR85R from 2004. I think the forks are the same actually.
@@Linus.Lindroth thanks rebuilt mines few weeks ago
@@vzrxs5918 did you ever have to remove the bottom nut? In the video he does not but the manual says so.
Really appreciate this👍🏼
At 20:58 - Bless you! 😉