For people who don't know you don't need to buy copper sulfate, you can make it by just running a current through a copper anode and cathode on the same container that you plan to electro plate until you reach a nice blue color around 30 mins works excellent!
I just found Brad and I’ve watched 5 or so videos. I have discovered that Brad is the “Walter White” of golf club refinishing. As Jessie says “Yo, Mr. White that’s dope!!”
Absolute beauty. I can't imagine the coating would be super tough, maybe worth a try if I find an old single iron at the thrift store. Thanks for the vid Brad!
Wow wow wowzers. Work of art. Can't wait to see you out on the course piping greens with this beauty. When are you putting on your ball striking clinic??
Save it in an old milk jug. It lasts indefinitely if you keep it clean. If the water evaporates completely, you'll just be left with chunks of crystals that you can re-desolve into water again.
This is the best instruction for copper plating i have seen. Do you need to add the brightener? If you want a bit more of a dull finish can you leave it out?
Great video! Could you hang more than one club at a time? Can you keep the shaft on, tape it and lean it against a wall? They’re graphite shafts no I’m assuming it won’t plate.
Absolutely. The lower requirements increase a bit to handle the additional clubs in the solution. I'd also recommend a larger container so you can keep the club far enough the from the anode. If it's too close, it can "burn", which isn't the end of the world. You just have to polish it a little after but you'll still get the same result. Same with keeping the club on the shaft. I'll make a video of the key considerations for keeping it on.
Hey Brad I came up with a different way to suspend the iron heads. Not sure if it's what you are looking for but it works great. I made it out of a chemistry flint starter.
Okay so i am absolutely in love with the limited edition mp20’s in copper, considering how impossible those clubs are to buy, I’m considering doing this to the next set i buy, either MP20’s or titleist MB’s.
Hi Brian. It patinas/tarnish like other pure copper items. I'm going to experiment with adding a coat of wax to see of that prevents or delays the tarnish. Tarnish remover or polosg brings it back to shiny, but the patina look is really cool. Check this out: www.reddit.com/r/golf/comments/ma8hdq/messing_around_with_natural_patinas_on_my_diy/?
Hi great video! How do you control the voltage for different solutions and what type of anodes would i use for gold plating and a gold stripping solution? Thanks
I want to do this to a set of maltby TS3 clubs but want to know if the copper plating will mess with the performance of the clubs? Does the plating get into the grooves of the irons and ruin the performance?
That is awesome I wanna learn this to make some extra money at the course I work at. Where do you get the supplies?? Thanks for all the great information
Thanks, man. Not yet but I really want to do something like this: fairwayjockey.com/products/titleist-vokey-sm8-brushed-copper-custom-wedge I love the contrast of the bright copper and the dark. Also, check out the parts that looked wiped away with the brushed effect. That looks so bad ass to me. I'm still researching how it's done but I will definitely try it and make a video.
I’m working on a Scotty Cameron TE I3 right now. I think the body is made of carbon steel, and has a black oxide finish. I want to remove the finish it has now so I can torch finish it, but I’m not sure how to remove the finish. Should I try bathing it in an acid.
You can just use the muriatic acid or Whinks rust removal. Check out my 'how to make a club black' video. Black oxide is just rust. You could even sand it off.
You use nickel anodes. Check out my video where I made a plating tank and solution. Also my electroless nickel video would be a good one to watch too. It's much easier.
You can save it in a jug for the next time. This is sold as root killer in the plumbing department to pour into your drains. But... Each product has its own disposal method. My area has a household hazardous waste disposal site to bring paints, cleaners, etc.
Greetings from Algeria.. I appreciate your work.. A question, please.. Is there an alternative to copper brightener here in my country? There is not.. I mean, can I get a product similar to its properties here in stores?❤
Yes. I've seen videos where people use Miralax, a glycol laxative you can add to the solution to get similar brightening results. th-cam.com/video/CpOKoEKtcCM/w-d-xo.html
You lose some weight during sanding and polishing which yoi gain back during plating. It would take a lot to change it, but theoretically, it would since it has mass.
Hi Brad, really great video! Can I ask, is this the same way that Mizuno would do their copper plating or is there other methods of copper plating metals?
Same method, they just do it on a larger scale. Their "layers of feel" are copper, nickel and chrome. We're just skipping the chrome because it's expensive and I don't fully understand the safety measures for at-home chrome plating for their chrome kits. The bright nickel looks so good.
That would work, but you could also just wait a few days for the copper to naturally patina on its own and it will darken up. It'll also have some really cool effects when the light hits it.
Brad is your plating techniques only good for show casing- or can one spruce up your clubs in this fashion for normal playing conditions? How long can the plating last?
I'd go a step further for play and do the "copy chrome" from caswell, which is a cobalt layer with brightener. Otherwise I can't imagine raw nickel taking a beating without having to replate again.
Can you tell me hw much Copper sulphate to you put in? Also, what is the voltage for the anodes? Thanks very much, didn't know this sort of thing could be done at home and I am inspired to do some plating myself now!
I'm not sure if you're in the States, but here you can buy Zep Root Kill which is copper sulphate. There's a link in the description. I used the whole container. I believe it was 4 volts and half an Amp or less. If it looks like it's too dark, it's too high but you can buff it to a shine.
How did you mix the nickle plating solution. That iron looked pretty nice nickle plated. Do you need the copper brightener for it to stick to the club.
Check out my nickel plating video to see how to make the nickel. The copper brighter just makes it shinier versus a darker copper color. The nickel is what helps the copper bond to the bare steel.
I have! Very cool. That might be a cool video. I made a rusted, raw wedge then sprayed it with vinegar, hydrogen peroxide, and salt to really make the rust effect.
@trentonabernathy8540 @ I used the whole container, but I don't recall what size it was. I'm sure you'd be ok to use it all since there works be more copper in the solution and less need to feed it with the copper anodes
@@BradMeehan thanks! I ended up using about half the container. I found some source that said 10-12 oz per gallon of solution, and I made 1.5 gallons. I’ll see how it turns out, fortunately I have quite a bit of anode material. Your videos have been a big help.
I wouldn't recommend it for playing. Maybe on the face, like the MacGregor Colokrom's or something decorative on the back, but it's not durable enough to handle a bunker shot or hard pan lie. It will wear off pretty quickly like sandpaper.
Another awesome video!! Just curious, what do you use for getting nick’s removed? Same as scratches? The polishing wheel? Sorry for all the questions. I’m just starting to really get into this.
Thanks, Dave.. You have to sand it for the scratch removal. I made a video showing a full club restoration from start to finish that I'll post next week. It's simple, but it does take time.
Yes, nickel first. You could use the "nickel strike", but you're risking missing a spot since it's hard to detect with the naked eye. A quick dip in the nickel has been successful for me before the copper.
@@BradMeehan got it! So follow your nickel plating video first and then dip in copper? Any specific time in the nickel? Also are you familiar with the p770s? Any unknown chrome I don’t know of? Also do you have any photos of what the club looks like with a little age on it?
www.finishing.com/111/72.shtml This says you can use store-bought laxative containing polyethylene glycol if you're unable to purchase proper copper brightener in your region.
@@BradMeehan thanks for the update! Can you stain nickel or chrome to look like this but have stronger bonds? Sorry I’m new to this and find it fascinating
I'm wanting to do this with an entire set of clubs. Do you know if you can do multiple at once? And do you know if you can use the same solution several times? Thanks!
Hi, Jordan. You can use the solution indefinitely as the copper anodes continue to replenish the solution. You will have to eventually add more distilled water and maybe more brightener over time. The anodes (the copper bars) will deplete as they are the donor metals to the process. What doesn't end up on the club ends up in the solution itself. You can do multiple but you'll need larger anodes. The rule of thumb is the anodes need to be twice the surface area of the item you're plating. I do one at a time so I can prep amd polish one while plating another.
After you're finished with the plating and take it out of the solution, do you dip it in anything like distilled water? Do you wipe it off with anything or just let it drip dry? Thanks....sorry for all the questions
I spray it down with distilled water for a good rinse, but nothing after that. It's bonded onto the club, so it won't wipe off so you can wipe it if you want. Keep the questions coming. That's why I made the channel!
@@BradMeehan thanks for the reply...ive got everything i need except the battery acid and copper brightener...ill have to order the brightener as i can't find it in any local store. Do you have any recommendations on finding it? Do you have to polish the pieces once done? I had a plating company do the plating and i guess they did an ok job but there's some burn marks on some of the pieces and what looks like finger prints..any comments on that, or how to avoid them? Ive got some extra pieces for a trial run and if i can get it all figured out, Im gonna redo the pieces i previously had plated...one other thing...i want to clear coat the pieces so they don't turn...i clearcoated the pieces from the plating company with a can of rustoleum aerosol clearcoat but they didn't turn out like i was expecting...should i have used everbrite? These are the metal banjo parts so brushing will be out of the question as there are a lot of small washers, nuts etc..thanks so much for your replies.
@@timhiggins5956 HI, Tim. I haven't found the brighter outside of Caswells site. I did see a TH-cam video of someone using a liquid laxative as a brightener, of all things. The fingerprint happens when you touch the plating without rinsing it. For some reason, I believe it still has a charge. It could also be that the fingerprint was there before the plating because it wasn't clean. You can buff after plating but I use only the loose cotton and barely touch it. I'd only hand polish the copper because it's so soft. I've seen videos of people using a sealant when they polish aluminum wheels. I'm not sure what it is, but I'd bet it would accomplish the same as the clear coat.
I ended up with 3 volts and about 1 Amp. I've reached out to a few plating companies to see what they use for thei4 power requirements but I've gotten no responses so far. It's a learning process for me, so I'm trying various settings to see what works best.
Brightner 1/8 cup corn syrip 1/8 cup murilax 1/4 cup water BLEND really well, I use an emlusion blender. Add as a per video here, works FANTASTIC! The above amount worked well in 1.5 gallons of copper bath.
@mikaelstahl2282 yes. Start with 220, then 400, then 600. Don't skip to the next grit until every scratch is gone, them do it some more. If you skip ahead too fast, you will still see the scratches in the final finish
The longer you go, the thicker the plating. 3 or 4 hours is generally where I pull them and check it. If they're not shiny, you can always polish after so you'll need a thicker layer to avoid polishing through the plating.
Good day i just wana find out my club looks good when i am done but when i wipe it the copper comes of doesn’t know why it doesn’t plate and i have tried a coin aswell
Is there remaining chrome? Also, did you use a nickel strike or nickel layer before the copper? All of these will affect the bond. Also, it has to be completely clean so try the water break test.
@@rickydaher You wouldn't have to remove the foam. The bronze won't bond to it (or chrome) at all. You'd have to remove the chrome by sanding or other means like a dilute acid bath or the chrome stripping solution. You'll know right away if you missed a spot and you'll have to buff off the layer you just did and do it again. This is super easy stuff. Typing it out makes it sound harder than it really is. Cleanliness is the key to success. Check out my chrome stripping video on how to check if it's clean or not.
@@rickydaher Looks like it. The only difference between my nickel tank and my copper tank is the anode i used (nickel vs. copper). Everything else is the same, so i'm sure their bronze kit is as well. The concept is exactly the same - take metal from a donor anode and bond it to your club. You may need to adjust the power output for the type of metal you're using. Meaning, I used less voltage/current for the copper than the nickel, but that was trial and error. There are calculators to get close. The kit should tell you what to use per square inch of surface area.
Please help me out here...been trying to plate some different pieces....first off they come out looking nowhere like yours...they're dull and have these "bumps" on them in several places...in places, the copper doesn't take... Getting aggravating...please help
Hi, Tim Can you verify you used the brightener? Also, the bumps are pitting and it's caused by either too much current, or the piece is too close to the anodes. If the copper isn't bonding, it's likely still dirty (do the water break test), still has chrome, or there isn't a nickel layer beneath it. Remember, the copper won't bond directly to the steel. You can lightly buff it when it's done, but make sure you have enough of a layer of plating.
@@BradMeehan hi Brad...yes, i used 10ml per gallon per another video..had to make 2 and a half gallons to completely submerge my part because of the size of my container...couldn't find anything closer...im thinking i may not have put enough brightener in it...i can understand the placement of the copper anodes..may have actually been to close..need to lengthen my alligator clip wires...im thinking the piece may have actually been chrome plated instead of nickel...what is the water break test and what should i do/use to get the copper,bumps and chrome off? Thanks.......oh....and what should the current and volts be set on? My particular recitifier doesn't show amps being used
@@timhiggins5956 Re: "My particular rectifier doesn't show amps being used" - Does this mean it doesn't have an ammeter or you are showing zero on the meter? I believe I was up to 4 v and 1 amp when I did the copper. For the bumps, you'll have to polish those down and do it again. Here is the water break test: th-cam.com/video/tf02DB612HE/w-d-xo.html
@@BradMeehan it has current and voltage...i was running the current starting out on 3 then went to 5....the voltage automatically changed when i changed the current setting
@@timhiggins5956 I believe the 5 amps is what is causing the pitting. That's pretty high. Try a junk part with no chrome, spotless clean, and lower power (maybe 1 amp) and see how it comes out. Even if it's not bright right out of the bath, it can be with a light hit on the loose cotton wheel or hand polishing. Just get the material on it and see if it's plating for now.
For people who don't know you don't need to buy copper sulfate, you can make it by just running a current through a copper anode and cathode on the same container that you plan to electro plate until you reach a nice blue color around 30 mins works excellent!
This man cannot be stopped! Impressive as always Brad
Thanks, Matt!
That looks amazing! Love the copper instead of the same ol same ol
Same!
Copper looks nice fresh out of the elcrto bath but tarnishes very quickly.
I like what you doing man. Enjoying your videos. I may need to start refurbishing clubs😁
It's super easy and I've linked to all of the equipment to use in the description. Let me know if you have questions.
I just found Brad and I’ve watched 5 or so videos.
I have discovered that Brad is the “Walter White” of golf club refinishing.
As Jessie says “Yo, Mr. White that’s dope!!”
Haha. You're not a cop, are you?
@@BradMeehan yes sir, I have been a Police Officer, now Detective, for 24 years. How’d you know??!?
@@chadnoswal9243 Entrapment!Thanks for your service, Chad Sounds like Retirement is right around the corner. Stay safe, my friend.
Absolute beauty. I can't imagine the coating would be super tough, maybe worth a try if I find an old single iron at the thrift store. Thanks for the vid Brad!
Yeah, the durability will be poor but for a wall hanger, they're pretty cool. You could also plate with nickel or cobalt for durability after.
seems this only works on chrome polished base material. The problem with copper is that you have to constantly polish it so that no verdigris occurs
Amazing!
Keep 'em coming dude! Learning right along with you.
Hope your projects are coming along!
This home plating is next-level. The Mizuno set is almost done and they look incredible.
@@BradMeehan I said learning not doing. Lol. I can't do jack, just keep buying more and more golf gear...
@@-RTB- that's hilarious! Haha. Well, you'll know how to restore them ...someday.
@@BradMeehan in the meantime living vicariously through these videos!
Great stuff they are phuckin cool!!! You should do just the golf shafts in a video. I bet they would sell like crazy. Keep ‘em coming bro
Wow wow wowzers. Work of art. Can't wait to see you out on the course piping greens with this beauty. When are you putting on your ball striking clinic??
Very cool mate! I’m through a few of your vids now love the mad scientist vibe. Cheers for your content.
*Mad scientist who barely graduated
Thank you for watching and please share with your friends!
Do you do this as a hobby!? Or do you do this for work?
Looks amazing man !! Appreciate you 💯🔥
Thanks Jedd. I enjoyed hanging with you yesterday and I'm excited to see your progress.
Hey legend… just found your page from @sasgolf TH-cam… been looking for videos like this to try for myself 👍👍
Thank you. Hit me up with any questions. It's really easy stuff. Please subscribe!
good job Brad
Thank you. This one was fun to make.
Brad, what do we do with the solution afterwards? How to dispose and how long does this solution last?
Save it in an old milk jug. It lasts indefinitely if you keep it clean. If the water evaporates completely, you'll just be left with chunks of crystals that you can re-desolve into water again.
That's really cool...Wish you was my uncle then I could pass you my full set to do 😂 ..
Lol. I'd be a lazy, beer drinking, stoner uncle who was always gone playing golf.
This is the best instruction for copper plating i have seen. Do you need to add the brightener? If you want a bit more of a dull finish can you leave it out?
I don't think you *have to add brightener. Even if you have a darker finish, you can polish up to a brighter shine if you prefer.
Great video! Could you hang more than one club at a time? Can you keep the shaft on, tape it and lean it against a wall? They’re graphite shafts no I’m assuming it won’t plate.
Absolutely.
The lower requirements increase a bit to handle the additional clubs in the solution. I'd also recommend a larger container so you can keep the club far enough the from the anode. If it's too close, it can "burn", which isn't the end of the world. You just have to polish it a little after but you'll still get the same result.
Same with keeping the club on the shaft. I'll make a video of the key considerations for keeping it on.
Hey Brad I came up with a different way to suspend the iron heads. Not sure if it's what you are looking for but it works great. I made it out of a chemistry flint starter.
Cool. Shoot me a pic and I can post it: Brad @ bradmeehan. Com
I'm also now hanging them by the hosel in the newer videos.
We're evolving! Lol
@@BradMeehan sent!
@Taylor Cook That's a great idea! That spring tension is just what is missing from our setup. Thanks for sending!
How Cow, I have that same set. Can I just have you plate them for me? Those look amazing.
This makes me want to scale this up to larger parts. For just looks alone.
Same process. You can even do the brush plating method if you don't have a large enough container.
Okay so i am absolutely in love with the limited edition mp20’s in copper, considering how impossible those clubs are to buy, I’m considering doing this to the next set i buy, either MP20’s or titleist MB’s.
They look bad ass.
That looks pretty amazing and shiny!! Will it tarnish like normal copper or will it stay super shiny??
Hi Brian. It patinas/tarnish like other pure copper items. I'm going to experiment with adding a coat of wax to see of that prevents or delays the tarnish. Tarnish remover or polosg brings it back to shiny, but the patina look is really cool. Check this out:
www.reddit.com/r/golf/comments/ma8hdq/messing_around_with_natural_patinas_on_my_diy/?
Hi great video! How do you control the voltage for different solutions and what type of anodes would i use for gold plating and a gold stripping solution? Thanks
I want to do this to a set of maltby TS3 clubs but want to know if the copper plating will mess with the performance of the clubs? Does the plating get into the grooves of the irons and ruin the performance?
Cool!
My grandpa played these and died on 17 at Griffith Park Wilson.
Getting Into platting.. can you do a video on your settings on your power supply for nickel and copper
Sure thing. I have so many video ideas that I know will help. It's just finding the time to do it. Thanks for watching.
@Brad Meehan thanks so much for the content ... also .. would I need to clear coat the copper club ?
Are the older pings copper coated? And if so then it would be possible to take a non copper coated ping zing 2 and copper coat it?
I would really like to find out the durability of these plated copper iron
@teapeg copper is really soft. A few trips to some hardpan or sand, and you'll see scuffs or worse. For me, it's for looks only and not regular play.
That is awesome I wanna learn this to make some extra money at the course I work at. Where do you get the supplies?? Thanks for all the great information
There's a link in the video descriptions to my Amazon store with all of the equipment: www.amazon.com/shop/bradmeehan
@@BradMeehan thank you so much
Any idea how to get a darker copper finish?
Hi Brad. Great stuff. You inspired me to start doing this myself. Quick question. Did you ever try to get an "aged" copper finish?
Thanks, man. Not yet but I really want to do something like this:
fairwayjockey.com/products/titleist-vokey-sm8-brushed-copper-custom-wedge
I love the contrast of the bright copper and the dark. Also, check out the parts that looked wiped away with the brushed effect. That looks so bad ass to me. I'm still researching how it's done but I will definitely try it and make a video.
I’m working on a Scotty Cameron TE I3 right now. I think the body is made of carbon steel, and has a black oxide finish. I want to remove the finish it has now so I can torch finish it, but I’m not sure how to remove the finish. Should I try bathing it in an acid.
You can just use the muriatic acid or Whinks rust removal. Check out my 'how to make a club black' video. Black oxide is just rust. You could even sand it off.
@@BradMeehan thank you!
How does this effect the club i wonder
What if you were to use 2 copper anodes and 1 zinc anode? Would it plate as brass?
Good question. Or you could use a brass anode?
For the nickel plating what material do i use for the anodes?
You use nickel anodes. Check out my video where I made a plating tank and solution. Also my electroless nickel video would be a good one to watch too. It's much easier.
I’m inspired, but how does one dispose of the materials safely
You can save it in a jug for the next time.
This is sold as root killer in the plumbing department to pour into your drains. But...
Each product has its own disposal method. My area has a household hazardous waste disposal site to bring paints, cleaners, etc.
Greetings from Algeria.. I appreciate your work.. A question, please.. Is there an alternative to copper brightener here in my country? There is not.. I mean, can I get a product similar to its properties here in stores?❤
Yes. I've seen videos where people use Miralax, a glycol laxative you can add to the solution to get similar brightening results. th-cam.com/video/CpOKoEKtcCM/w-d-xo.html
Theoretically could you swing weight a club head by plating?
You lose some weight during sanding and polishing which yoi gain back during plating. It would take a lot to change it, but theoretically, it would since it has mass.
Hi Brad, really great video! Can I ask, is this the same way that Mizuno would do their copper plating or is there other methods of copper plating metals?
Same method, they just do it on a larger scale. Their "layers of feel" are copper, nickel and chrome. We're just skipping the chrome because it's expensive and I don't fully understand the safety measures for at-home chrome plating for their chrome kits. The bright nickel looks so good.
Could this process be used to replate cast iron skillet for use?
Yes, same technique for any metal surface except aluminum or stainless, which requires a different preparation than steel.
when you add battery acid into the solutions sir?
Also if I wanted them a darker copper but, shiny would I just use less copper brightener?
That would work, but you could also just wait a few days for the copper to naturally patina on its own and it will darken up. It'll also have some really cool effects when the light hits it.
Hello.don't you have strip chrome off before you nickel plate?Thanks
Yessir. The acid dip removes it along with the rust. Only on steel clubs, not stainless. Those don't rust.
@@BradMeehan Thanks for fast response , your the Man!
Brad is your plating techniques only good for show casing- or can one spruce up your clubs in this fashion for normal playing conditions? How long can the plating last?
I'd go a step further for play and do the "copy chrome" from caswell, which is a cobalt layer with brightener. Otherwise I can't imagine raw nickel taking a beating without having to replate again.
Can you tell me hw much Copper sulphate to you put in? Also, what is the voltage for the anodes?
Thanks very much, didn't know this sort of thing could be done at home and I am inspired to do some plating myself now!
I'm not sure if you're in the States, but here you can buy Zep Root Kill which is copper sulphate. There's a link in the description. I used the whole container. I believe it was 4 volts and half an Amp or less. If it looks like it's too dark, it's too high but you can buff it to a shine.
How did you mix the nickle plating solution. That iron looked pretty nice nickle plated. Do you need the copper brightener for it to stick to the club.
Check out my nickel plating video to see how to make the nickel. The copper brighter just makes it shinier versus a darker copper color. The nickel is what helps the copper bond to the bare steel.
how long will that copper or nickle solution work for. Will it last you for ever?
Forever. You'll just have to replenish your anodes as they get eaten away during plating.
What brand of copper solution are you using? I've tried Krohn brand and gotten very rough, unusable results regardless of my settings.
It's root killer like in the video.
Super beau travail mais qu'est ce que l'azur ant ?
tueur de racine d'arbre. tree root killer.
Can you copper plate mine brand new iron heads if I send them to you?
Hey Brad, about how much battery acid did you add to this once it cooled?
I believe it's 1/3 cup.
great job, did you try reverse plating to have a rust effect? i have tried electrlosis too, result on copper even with brushed effect is nice
I have! Very cool. That might be a cool video.
I made a rusted, raw wedge then sprayed it with vinegar, hydrogen peroxide, and salt to really make the rust effect.
What rating is the powers supply please, Volts and Amps?
I ended up around 3 volts and maybe .5 amp:
th-cam.com/video/PS3yPdwVFds/w-d-xo.html
How much zeps did you add? I have a 2 pound bottle but it looks like you used a bit less
@trentonabernathy8540 @ I used the whole container, but I don't recall what size it was. I'm sure you'd be ok to use it all since there works be more copper in the solution and less need to feed it with the copper anodes
@@BradMeehan thanks! I ended up using about half the container. I found some source that said 10-12 oz per gallon of solution, and I made 1.5 gallons. I’ll see how it turns out, fortunately I have quite a bit of anode material. Your videos have been a big help.
Brad, did you ever find out the durability of the copper platting on the iron? Thanks!
I wouldn't recommend it for playing. Maybe on the face, like the MacGregor Colokrom's or something decorative on the back, but it's not durable enough to handle a bunker shot or hard pan lie. It will wear off pretty quickly like sandpaper.
But, you can also leave a layer of clear coat over it to extend the life.
Thank you for the feedback!
Another awesome video!! Just curious, what do you use for getting nick’s removed? Same as scratches? The polishing wheel? Sorry for all the questions. I’m just starting to really get into this.
Thanks, Dave..
You have to sand it for the scratch removal. I made a video showing a full club restoration from start to finish that I'll post next week. It's simple, but it does take time.
So I have a set of TM P770s. If I wanted to do this I would have to nickel plate them first and then copper plate?
Yes, nickel first. You could use the "nickel strike", but you're risking missing a spot since it's hard to detect with the naked eye. A quick dip in the nickel has been successful for me before the copper.
@@BradMeehan got it! So follow your nickel plating video first and then dip in copper? Any specific time in the nickel? Also are you familiar with the p770s? Any unknown chrome I don’t know of? Also do you have any photos of what the club looks like with a little age on it?
copper brightener part == what is the composition? Thank you
www.finishing.com/111/72.shtml
This says you can use store-bought laxative containing polyethylene glycol if you're unable to purchase proper copper brightener in your region.
What size of power supply did you use ??
Check out the equipment links in the description for adjustable power supply.
Did you ever end up doing a durability test for this?
It's decorative at best. It will scrape off the sole on hard pan like butter.
@@BradMeehan thanks for the update! Can you stain nickel or chrome to look like this but have stronger bonds? Sorry I’m new to this and find it fascinating
I'm wanting to do this with an entire set of clubs. Do you know if you can do multiple at once? And do you know if you can use the same solution several times? Thanks!
Hi, Jordan. You can use the solution indefinitely as the copper anodes continue to replenish the solution. You will have to eventually add more distilled water and maybe more brightener over time. The anodes (the copper bars) will deplete as they are the donor metals to the process. What doesn't end up on the club ends up in the solution itself.
You can do multiple but you'll need larger anodes. The rule of thumb is the anodes need to be twice the surface area of the item you're plating. I do one at a time so I can prep amd polish one while plating another.
Added an equipment list to the description
After you're finished with the plating and take it out of the solution, do you dip it in anything like distilled water? Do you wipe it off with anything or just let it drip dry? Thanks....sorry for all the questions
I spray it down with distilled water for a good rinse, but nothing after that. It's bonded onto the club, so it won't wipe off so you can wipe it if you want. Keep the questions coming. That's why I made the channel!
@@BradMeehan thanks for the reply...ive got everything i need except the battery acid and copper brightener...ill have to order the brightener as i can't find it in any local store. Do you have any recommendations on finding it? Do you have to polish the pieces once done? I had a plating company do the plating and i guess they did an ok job but there's some burn marks on some of the pieces and what looks like finger prints..any comments on that, or how to avoid them? Ive got some extra pieces for a trial run and if i can get it all figured out, Im gonna redo the pieces i previously had plated...one other thing...i want to clear coat the pieces so they don't turn...i clearcoated the pieces from the plating company with a can of rustoleum aerosol clearcoat but they didn't turn out like i was expecting...should i have used everbrite? These are the metal banjo parts so brushing will be out of the question as there are a lot of small washers, nuts etc..thanks so much for your replies.
@@timhiggins5956 HI, Tim. I haven't found the brighter outside of Caswells site. I did see a TH-cam video of someone using a liquid laxative as a brightener, of all things.
The fingerprint happens when you touch the plating without rinsing it. For some reason, I believe it still has a charge. It could also be that the fingerprint was there before the plating because it wasn't clean. You can buff after plating but I use only the loose cotton and barely touch it. I'd only hand polish the copper because it's so soft.
I've seen videos of people using a sealant when they polish aluminum wheels. I'm not sure what it is, but I'd bet it would accomplish the same as the clear coat.
I ended up with 3 volts and about 1 Amp. I've reached out to a few plating companies to see what they use for thei4 power requirements but I've gotten no responses so far. It's a learning process for me, so I'm trying various settings to see what works best.
Brightner
1/8 cup corn syrip
1/8 cup murilax
1/4 cup water
BLEND really well, I use an emlusion blender.
Add as a per video here, works FANTASTIC!
The above amount worked well in 1.5 gallons of copper bath.
How do i get rid of deeper scratchers? Build my own set through your videos with good result but deeper scratcher remain😢 help!
You really have to spend time sanding them away first. Plating will not hide any scratches like painting does.
@@BradMeehan rekomend any spec grit?
@mikaelstahl2282 yes. Start with 220, then 400, then 600. Don't skip to the next grit until every scratch is gone, them do it some more. If you skip ahead too fast, you will still see the scratches in the final finish
is the hook club wire copper as well??
It's copper coated. I've been using a piece of thin copper tubing lately that fits into the hosel. You can use anything that is conductive.
@@BradMeehan Thank you Sir...👍😊
How long do you leave them in, and also how long does 4 copper pipes last for usage?
The longer you go, the thicker the plating. 3 or 4 hours is generally where I pull them and check it. If they're not shiny, you can always polish after so you'll need a thicker layer to avoid polishing through the plating.
The copper anodes will last for a few months. I've yet to change mine, but I have changed my nickel anodes b8eciae i use them more.
How much of the root kill did you use? And what amount of battery acid?
I used the entire container of root kill and 2/3 cup of the acid.
@@BradMeehan thanks!
Good day i just wana find out my club looks good when i am done but when i wipe it the copper comes of doesn’t know why it doesn’t plate and i have tried a coin aswell
Is there remaining chrome? Also, did you use a nickel strike or nickel layer before the copper? All of these will affect the bond. Also, it has to be completely clean so try the water break test.
May I see == your work == copper plating steel = iron = must be very difficult ? Thank you
It is not difficult. You must keep your parts clean and you will be successful
Why didn't you say how many degrees of transform do we need volts?
Whats the cost of the set up?
The most expensive part is the power supply and it was about $70? amzn.to/3AizUzy The rest is homemade.
how can i bronze coat a set of Taylormade 21 P790s?!
Caswell plating sells a bronze plating kit, but the steps are the same.
@@BradMeehan would i just have to remove the foam inserts first, then sand them before doing the bronze soak?
@@rickydaher You wouldn't have to remove the foam. The bronze won't bond to it (or chrome) at all. You'd have to remove the chrome by sanding or other means like a dilute acid bath or the chrome stripping solution. You'll know right away if you missed a spot and you'll have to buff off the layer you just did and do it again. This is super easy stuff. Typing it out makes it sound harder than it really is. Cleanliness is the key to success.
Check out my chrome stripping video on how to check if it's clean or not.
@@BradMeehan can i use the copper tank build to soak them?
@@rickydaher Looks like it. The only difference between my nickel tank and my copper tank is the anode i used (nickel vs. copper). Everything else is the same, so i'm sure their bronze kit is as well. The concept is exactly the same - take metal from a donor anode and bond it to your club.
You may need to adjust the power output for the type of metal you're using. Meaning, I used less voltage/current for the copper than the nickel, but that was trial and error. There are calculators to get close. The kit should tell you what to use per square inch of surface area.
Как купить отбеливатель для меди???
Please help me out here...been trying to plate some different pieces....first off they come out looking nowhere like yours...they're dull and have these "bumps" on them in several places...in places, the copper doesn't take... Getting aggravating...please help
Hi, Tim
Can you verify you used the brightener? Also, the bumps are pitting and it's caused by either too much current, or the piece is too close to the anodes.
If the copper isn't bonding, it's likely still dirty (do the water break test), still has chrome, or there isn't a nickel layer beneath it. Remember, the copper won't bond directly to the steel.
You can lightly buff it when it's done, but make sure you have enough of a layer of plating.
@@BradMeehan hi Brad...yes, i used 10ml per gallon per another video..had to make 2 and a half gallons to completely submerge my part because of the size of my container...couldn't find anything closer...im thinking i may not have put enough brightener in it...i can understand the placement of the copper anodes..may have actually been to close..need to lengthen my alligator clip wires...im thinking the piece may have actually been chrome plated instead of nickel...what is the water break test and what should i do/use to get the copper,bumps and chrome off? Thanks.......oh....and what should the current and volts be set on? My particular recitifier doesn't show amps being used
@@timhiggins5956 Re: "My particular rectifier doesn't show amps being used" - Does this mean it doesn't have an ammeter or you are showing zero on the meter? I believe I was up to 4 v and 1 amp when I did the copper.
For the bumps, you'll have to polish those down and do it again.
Here is the water break test: th-cam.com/video/tf02DB612HE/w-d-xo.html
@@BradMeehan it has current and voltage...i was running the current starting out on 3 then went to 5....the voltage automatically changed when i changed the current setting
@@timhiggins5956 I believe the 5 amps is what is causing the pitting. That's pretty high.
Try a junk part with no chrome, spotless clean, and lower power (maybe 1 amp) and see how it comes out. Even if it's not bright right out of the bath, it can be with a light hit on the loose cotton wheel or hand polishing. Just get the material on it and see if it's plating for now.
Quel quantité d'acide de batterie vous ajoutez dans le bain ?
~ 80 ml
What in the Walter White.
Exactly.
could i send you some clubs and pay you to to this?
Negative. I'm too lazy. But thank you.
I found mirror paint on TH-cam == work with a brush == mirror surface == maybe it's =fake=
Probably fake. There is "mirror paint", but it's just paint. You're not really fixing the problem under it all.
How much if I send you some clubs 😂😂😂
I'm too lazy to do other people's clubs!
@@BradMeehan lmao I feel that
fuckin beaut
That's what I'm talking about.