Cool video, but bro always add acid to water. If you did that with a stronger acid, it would heat up and sputter violently, possibly giving you some serious burns.
@Wyla, I was 2.34 into the video, and stopped the video to make the same comment. I used to have to make up the metal workshop sulphuric acid pickle bath solution and even adding acid to the water it used to get hot and I'm talking about a 10 gallon or more sized bath ( Imperial gallons-- 20% larger than US gallons)
And with plating if you are thinking voltage, lower voltage actually plates better than high voltage. Between 1 and 5 apps and you're good, but you could even plate with a 1.5 volt aaa
A couple of points that i don't agree with. I mean not too disrespect!! You didn't cover the whole spanner, you used to much salt, For a better result you need a warm solution about 40 Celcius, And also the wires you hang your spanner on can be of any metal but the other side should be the metal you are plating with and last point is that if you want a nice result you could lower the voltages and nickel plateing on a slower rate. It wil become more smooth. And i would nickel plate on 3Volt for more than 4 hours. Also i would use clear cleaning vinnigar :) Hope these pointers help you and others. Thank you for the video. Greetings,, Kitty.
I’m trying to get ready to do my first pistol plating, and this seems to be the point of contention. Nobody seems to agree on amps, volts and time, or in the case of my power source, current. Side question, Can you sort of recharge your nickel solution or no?
Always add the acid to the water, not the other way around. Now 10% HCl is not that bad, but if you use higher concentrations acid you can get HCl gas in your lungs. If you use Sulfuric acid as in Auto batteries it can spatter acid out of the container, burning holes in everything, including yourself because of the heat forming in the mixing process.
Wow!!! Excellent video! I have been using chemicals to dye woods for years and make my own solutions. I used to have old hardware treated by a guy that was in L.A. and worked for all the designers but I never tried it myself. I have some screws I need to get back close to the nickel plate you have there but I have one problem the owner of this antique table had soaked the hardware in a solution of white vinegar so it’s all black. Can I use this process on the steel and some maybe brass also or do I need to separate them? Thanks again. Great stuff
Tip for you before you plate chrome needs stripping use caustic soda and stainless steel anoid and reverse the polarity so spanner is positive and stainless steel anode is negative this will dull the chrome ready for plating copper or nickel
Great video! Easy and inspirational! Going to try it this week. Is the second copper plating durable enough to use on a hammer? What about a golf club? Will it wear off or be removed if “hit” a lot or will it stay? As long as I seal and wax it. Just curious as to what to expect. Thanks.
Thanks for watching! Plating has many uses such as aesthetics, rust prevention, and friction reduction. However, I think it is vulnerable to shocks. A few shots may be okay for a golf club.
Thank you for the best electroplating tutorial in the world. Can I plate nickel directly onto steel? If I may ask, I want to nickel-plate Vespa exhaust to stop rust and I've heard that copper-plated steel makes a galvanic cell, where the steel is a sacrificial element.
Nice video I have a question if you was to nickel plate that copper object in your video is there a way to reverse the effect and unplate the nickel off the copper ???
Can I do nickel plating on iron? I'll clean the iron till it shines and do thicker plating but will it bear heat because it's near engine of my bike also tell me how long the plating going to last!? Thanks!
I've just been researching that myself... I had Nickel plated mufflers on my Harley, 30 years ago, so it can be done... but apparently Nickel won't take to Iron or Steel, so you have to plate with Copper first... As I understand it...
Very instructional, but for the sake of your solution not exploding due to exothermic reaction. ALWAYS add acid to water. Muriatic you might be OK, as it is diluted but if it was nitric/hrdrofluoric, or a stronger acid like that, you could be in trouble. Appreciate the video tho
Connect all of the pieces in both directions. Like a chain. Use small pieces of wire to tie them together and allow current to flow from piece to piece
I am trying to plate pot metal door handles with terrible results. It seems I will need to do a flash copper. Is method 1 using hydrochloric acid considered flash cooper? I dont want to get into the cyanide type if I can help it.
You can do it the same way, or you can use 1:1 vinegar :peroxide with a tbsp of salt and then hook up both pos and neg leads to brass. 2 to 5 volts 1 Amp. You will have a workable solution in a few hours
Bro, excellent video, thank you for sharing this and helping people out in a way that they can understand clearly. I don’t want to sounds like pecker so I apologize in advance if I do but there are a couple things you might want to consider, First, I’d double or triple layer the gloves, that way contaminated gloves can be removed and you won’t have the impossible fight of putting another pair on over damp/sweaty hands. Is also nice to be able to remove the contaminated pair and have a nice clean pair ready to rock. Next, you should always add the acid to water to prevent a run away exothermic reaction; granted you were using a toilet cleaner for the HCL (I assume) but straight muriatic acid or sodium hydroxide can be purchased over the counter so if someone was trying to emulate this process they could be in a world of hurt. “And the Darwin Award goes to” I lastly, when I’m plating like this I’ve noticed that 15v goes quite a bit faster without sacrificing quality and looks.
Dont add water in acid. Its always acid into water. I get that its diluted but its something that can be dangerous for people that find it more concentrated
You didn’t copper plate shit! First that spanner was chromed and under chromed finishes there are nickel and copper layers. All you did was disolve the cheap thin layer of chrome exposing the copper beneath. And for electroplating the positive goes to the piece.
While I do think this is fake (there is pretty much no copper ions in the water/hydrochloric acid solution), the negative (cathode) gets plated, not the positive (anode). I use electrolysis for rust removal, where the part to be cleaned is attached to the cathode. I thought for years that I was plating the scrap metal with the rust from the part I was cleaning. Turns out that is not the case. When electroplating, it's the negative that gets plated.
Cool video, but bro always add acid to water. If you did that with a stronger acid, it would heat up and sputter violently, possibly giving you some serious burns.
@Wyla, I was 2.34 into the video, and stopped the video to make the same comment. I used to have to make up the metal workshop sulphuric acid pickle bath solution and even adding acid to the water it used to get hot and I'm talking about a 10 gallon or more sized bath ( Imperial gallons-- 20% larger than US gallons)
Thanks for nice app God bless you.Mohammad Hussein from Iran 🇮🇷
Forget the volts! It's the amps that do the plating!
And with plating if you are thinking voltage, lower voltage actually plates better than high voltage. Between 1 and 5 apps and you're good, but you could even plate with a 1.5 volt aaa
A couple of points that i don't agree with. I mean not too disrespect!! You didn't cover the whole spanner, you used to much salt, For a better result you need a warm solution about 40 Celcius, And also the wires you hang your spanner on can be of any metal but the other side should be the metal you are plating with and last point is that if you want a nice result you could lower the voltages and nickel plateing on a slower rate. It wil become more smooth. And i would nickel plate on 3Volt for more than 4 hours. Also i would use clear cleaning vinnigar :)
Hope these pointers help you and others. Thank you for the video. Greetings,, Kitty.
I’m trying to get ready to do my first pistol plating, and this seems to be the point of contention.
Nobody seems to agree on amps, volts and time, or in the case of my power source, current.
Side question,
Can you sort of recharge your nickel solution or no?
yes you can with just the nickelplates and current. just let it do its thing over night. The solution wil darken in color.
@@Daddy53751
Always add the acid to the water, not the other way around. Now 10% HCl is not that bad, but if you use higher concentrations acid you can get HCl gas in your lungs. If you use Sulfuric acid as in Auto batteries it can spatter acid out of the container, burning holes in everything, including yourself because of the heat forming in the mixing process.
Here’s a pneumonic for you: If you do what you oughta, add the acid to the water.
Wow!!! Excellent video!
I have been using chemicals to dye woods for years and make my own solutions. I used to have old hardware treated by a guy that was in L.A. and worked for all the designers but I never tried it myself.
I have some screws I need to get back close to the nickel plate you have there but I have one problem the owner of this antique table had soaked the hardware in a solution of white vinegar so it’s all black. Can I use this process on the steel and some maybe brass also or do I need to separate them?
Thanks again. Great stuff
Tip for you before you plate chrome needs stripping use caustic soda and stainless steel anoid and reverse the polarity so spanner is positive and stainless steel anode is negative this will dull the chrome ready for plating copper or nickel
Best video with best steps and explanation..
I'll waiting for plating alumunium
Thanks for copper plate with hydrochloric acid idea.
This is a very, very, very good video. Thanks for sharing.
அருமை
What’s the best type of brass Pickling solution before you Nickel plate the brass?
I’ve read (Sodium Hydroxide) (Sulfuric Acid) & (HCI) ????
Thanks!
Great video! Easy and inspirational! Going to try it this week. Is the second copper plating durable enough to use on a hammer? What about a golf club? Will it wear off or be removed if “hit” a lot or will it stay? As long as I seal and wax it. Just curious as to what to expect. Thanks.
Thanks for watching! Plating has many uses such as aesthetics, rust prevention, and friction reduction. However, I think it is vulnerable to shocks. A few shots may be okay for a golf club.
Dang what did you use to polish ? Came out shinny af
Wow that was great I learned a lot
Thank you
Thanks for your video!
very useful .thanks
one like from pakistan. thanks for contributing knowledge.
Thank you for the best electroplating tutorial in the world. Can I plate nickel directly onto steel? If I may ask, I want to nickel-plate Vespa exhaust to stop rust and I've heard that copper-plated steel makes a galvanic cell, where the steel is a sacrificial element.
in the world XD
thank you for this video.
Nice video I have a question if you was to nickel plate that copper object in your video is there a way to reverse the effect and unplate the nickel off the copper ???
Nice video
Fast and to the point. Cheers 🍻
How much hot water
Can I do nickel plating on iron? I'll clean the iron till it shines and do thicker plating but will it bear heat because it's near engine of my bike also tell me how long the plating going to last!?
Thanks!
I've just been researching that myself... I had Nickel plated mufflers on my Harley, 30 years ago, so it can be done... but apparently Nickel won't take to Iron or Steel, so you have to plate with Copper first... As I understand it...
@@trollforge okay thanks.
@@trollforge I thight it was the reverse of that. Copper won't plate to steel. So you nickle plate first, then the copper will plate to the nickle
@@brerrabbit9668 could be, it's more than 30 years since I was in a plating facility...
Very instructional, but for the sake of your solution not exploding due to exothermic reaction. ALWAYS add acid to water. Muriatic you might be OK, as it is diluted but if it was nitric/hrdrofluoric, or a stronger acid like that, you could be in trouble. Appreciate the video tho
Can you list the brand of the degreaser that you used?
Also does normal brake cleaner work?
Great vidio, sir how to cuper plating (coper anodizing) aluminium.
Plating aluminum is very difficult. It's a professional job.
Connect all of the pieces in both directions. Like a chain. Use small pieces of wire to tie them together and allow current to flow from piece to piece
Great video. Does the metal weaken? Can I use this technique to copper plate the wheel lug nuts on my car?
Thanks for watching! It's okay, if you don't use hydrochloric acid. It's weak copper plating. Nickel is stronger.
Caso eu queria um niquel fosco? Qual seria o procedimento?
I am trying to plate pot metal door handles with terrible results. It seems I will need to do a flash copper. Is method 1 using hydrochloric acid considered flash cooper? I dont want to get into the cyanide type if I can help it.
Why you can't chrome plating like nickel?
great informative and helping video. do guide how to do either gold plating or golden imitation polish/colour?
Thanks for watching! Gold plating is good. Since the amount is high, I will challenge if I exceed 1000 registrants!
Do a golf club then use it to play. Let's see how it holds up to the punishment.
Super
I know if I keep trying I'm going to get this right.
Sir i am from india.. yellow chromate plating please Can you show me ..?
Sir procedure of brass plating ? Please mention here its link
You can do it the same way, or you can use 1:1 vinegar :peroxide with a tbsp of salt and then hook up both pos and neg leads to brass. 2 to 5 volts 1 Amp. You will have a workable solution in a few hours
Good !
What is compound
Does this work with 925 silver?
Bro, excellent video, thank you for sharing this and helping people out in a way that they can understand clearly.
I don’t want to sounds like pecker so I apologize in advance if I do but there are a couple things you might want to consider, First, I’d double or triple layer the gloves, that way contaminated gloves can be removed and you won’t have the impossible fight of putting another pair on over damp/sweaty hands. Is also nice to be able to remove the contaminated pair and have a nice clean pair ready to rock.
Next, you should always add the acid to water to prevent a run away exothermic reaction; granted you were using a toilet cleaner for the HCL (I assume) but straight muriatic acid or sodium hydroxide can be purchased over the counter so if someone was trying to emulate this process they could be in a world of hurt. “And the Darwin Award goes to”
I lastly, when I’m plating like this I’ve noticed that 15v goes quite a bit faster without sacrificing quality and looks.
That copper would wipe right off the steel spanner
nice
Your great sr venderful
Great
🖖 👍
Is it possible to use alternatives to hydrochloric acid, like zinc chloride or Ammonium Chloride? 🤔
I have no experience because I can only get hydrochloric acid.
I looked it up. It seems dangerous to use ammonium chloride because white smoke is generated during plating.
It becomes copper?
Na it got a deposit of copper on it that's very hard or it get a hard layer of copper
No, no, study lab procedures! Never add water to acid, only add acid to water! Lab rules are paid for in blood! Don’t pay again!
Sir polishing compound chemical
How to nickel plated on fasners in quantities
Dont add water in acid. Its always acid into water. I get that its diluted but its something that can be dangerous for people that find it more concentrated
Brother, what is the name of the compound used at 6:04?
Ok
H2 氫氣 生成
hi.like.or iran
Cardinal Sin - add chemical to water "always" - fail! - otherwise great presentation.
You didn’t copper plate shit! First that spanner was chromed and under chromed finishes there are nickel and copper layers. All you did was disolve the cheap thin layer of chrome exposing the copper beneath. And for electroplating the positive goes to the piece.
While I do think this is fake (there is pretty much no copper ions in the water/hydrochloric acid solution), the negative (cathode) gets plated, not the positive (anode).
I use electrolysis for rust removal, where the part to be cleaned is attached to the cathode. I thought for years that I was plating the scrap metal with the rust from the part I was cleaning. Turns out that is not the case. When electroplating, it's the negative that gets plated.
What ampere