Thank you very much for the video. My Focus was struggling at idle somewhere around 650 rpm. The throttle body had a good layer of dried up gunk around the edges. I let a throttle cleaner soaked rag stay in the body for about an hour and almost all of the residue came off. Now she idles at about 850 rpm real clean and steady. 💪🏻
Just followed this video to sort a rough idle on my 100,000 mile 02 plate MK1 Ford Focus which was vibrating a lot when idle. It worked a treat so thanks for this. I must say though that you need some good cranked screwdrivers and a Torx head bit to get in to those bolts as they are in tricky positions. I replaced the Ford Jubilee clips with 50-60mm screw driven ones whilst doing the job as they are easier for me to remove without the special tool. The old ones just break off with a good twist. Loads of black soot had built up in there. Cost of job, new cranked screw driver with removable heads £10. Jubilee clips £12 bag of ten. Throttle body cleaner probably £7ish. Satisfaction £priceless. If you can borrow some tools though you'd only have the throttle body cleaner to pay for. Thanks again.
I would like to say Thank you very much for your help, I have a ford fiesta 2003 zetec with this same idling issue, and thanks to you I was able to fix the car yesterday, so glad I found this video, thanks again for all your help. Superstar 👍
Cheers for the video. My 05 Ghia is a bit sluggish and starting to stall out at tick over. I will give the throttle body a clean with carb cleaner and see what happens.
@@dan_6915 I sold it with "340.000km" because of an accident in which my car was slammed from behind by a car in which another car bamped and I got a second impact. Even after all of the fixing the car was never the same, shaking on speeds greater than 110km/h.
Symptoms: Deceleration at a junction, into 3rd gear.... Engine cuts out - no steering - all dead. Nearly causing accident.. Restart the engine - all fine. No warning lights other than the Battery Light - so maybe it was not idling fast enough.. Anyway copied exactly what you said in the video, including using Wynnes Carb Cleaner inside and out because the intake was 'SO SO grubby and caked in black grime. Well 20 minutes later all re-set and put back together... Had to re-enter the RADIO Code so make sure you have this before you disconnect the battery.. Now it works immaculately and idling slightly faster. So I am a very very happy bunny. I could not believe how grubby the intake was. But I thoroughly recommend the process in the Video. I know there is a story that says DO NOT use the Carb Cleaner Fluid but there is no way I could have cleaned it without the using the Carb Cleaner. So using a tooth brush and the spray and now it looks like new. Thank you and your following for all the advice. It Works!
UPDATE: 2 problems on my ZX3. 1. Collapsed PCV line at idle. 2. Fuel rail pressure sensor diaphragm was leaking gas. This was flooding the car at idle. I replace the coil, plugs and wires too but that problem after the vaccuum line PCV stuff was replaced was the fuel rail pressure sensor for sure. Leaking gas into the intake manifold, flooding the car at idle when warm. But, its fixed as of now!!! No more rough idle.
Mine had the collapsed PCV vacuum line. It throws a a P0320 code but the problem isn't the crankcase sensor at all. The elbow of the rubber line collapses while running and crank case pressure builds and the car won't idle either when put into gear. Just replace that vacuum line which is 5/8". The line may look OK when cold or when the engine is off but when there is a vacuum, it'll collapse because the elbow area under the manifold will get soft.
Well that sorted my 58000 mile 1.6 grandad focus out.Serviced main dealer all its life,lived in a heated garage!But its never had a log run and as been to the shops on cold all the time.Same symptons,checked the idle speed control valve clean as whistle.So took of the airbox pipe from the throttle body looked clean! But no on closer inspection the edge of the flap had a build up of cack.Cleaned of with blue roll and brake cleaner.Bingo bobs your tuner.Cheers for the good video very helpful
I have a 03 focus w/Zetec 2.0 DOHC L4 Vin 3.automatic trans.the throttle body only controls the air intake.the (tps) throttle position sensor controls the fuel/it & other sensors relay 2 the computer/controlling how much fuel 2 deliver.tho I like ur video. I like seeing all the different models/motors.
Pipes connected to the pcv valve behind intake usually collapse if you squeeze them more so than lookin you'll feel there soft in places. bad earths can also cause the poor idle and cause the car to stall at times. The butterfly valve doesn't effect idle its the port to the side that's for the idle, there's also no need to remove the throttle body to clean it have some one hold the accelerator fully open or wedge a stick against the seat inside the car, use a soft tooth brush and carb cleaner to clean the valve, most times makes no difference its usually the pcv valve or poor earths
@@Northaxe bad earth's as In bad connections that are slightly corroded. Look for heavy electric cable bolted onto the engine and gearbox and go onto the chassy just remove them and clean them. There isn't many. Basicly any wires that u see that are easy to remove usually just one bolt remove and clean well even apply a bit of Copper grease, vaseline or normal grease just keeps a good connection. FYI negative or minus - sign or your car battery or any battery is earth
My recently bought Ford Focus has this problem but i never typed it onto the internet yet, and already TH-cam advices me this :D Like they don't need data mining anymore.. They just read your mind nowadays.
Having the same problem with mine. Drops to about 500 rpm and shudders slightly when the engine is warm, just after coming off the throttle ( ie, with clutch peddle down, stopping at a junction.) I'll be doing this job over the weekend and the idle control valve while I'm at it.
Devils Advocate I have the same problem...i have replaced the Idle control valve and the pcv hose behind the intake manifloid but nothing.....the rpms are low when am stopping in traffic ligths or push the clutch.....and sometimes it stalling......have you done anything? Thanks.
I've cleaned out the ICV with throttle body cleaner. It already looked in good condition and pretty clean. Not much change either for me. I just got my OBD2 bluetooth dongle thing and installed Torque . . . battery voltages stay 14v~ even with a full load on the alternator ie, full beams, heater fan, radio and interior light. Battery on its own is 12.2v dips to 8 volts while cranking (not a good sign but car starts first time every-time within 2 seconds). After doing a bit of research, the mk1 focus naturally have the lowest idle rpm giving great economy. It may just need a good battery?? I'm popping over to my garage some time next week to see if the idle can be increased to about 850-900 rpm. It'll cost a little more in fuel but at least the car will hopefully stop shuddering.
Only very slightly improved since I bought a new cadmium battery. Apparently it had the original battery from early 2004 so it was about time for a replacement. I've changed the air filter, oil filter and new oil. It still has a very low idle when the cars warmed up but it's not shuddering as much now. Only job that needs doing now is probably clean the whole throttle body when I've got some spare time.
its not only a common problem on this Ford engine? alll car engines has the same problem over time when carbon gets build up. And you should definitely not use carb cleaner, it will wipe off that coating right away! The coating is also made to seal the plate correctly. If you remove the coating the car will run lean at idle, and you will get weird idle issues! because it gets too much air inside with the idle air contol valve. You can clean these throttlebodys just by spraying contact cleaner inside or maf cleaner.
Disconnecting the the battery does not completely reset the ECU You have to connect a jumper wire from the negative cable to to the positive after isolating the negative terminal from the negative cable end. Let it sit for 10 min. This will drain the capaciters in the ECU. Then complete your relearn process.
Yep I had to do this on 2003 focus wagon, after 7 1/2 years of replacing o2 sensors ( upper, lower, and gas tank) finally found Scott Kilmer showing that ☝🏾☝🏾 now it’s the best it’s run in 7 plus years 200 k miles 👍🏾
It's not particularly dirty, in fact I don't think that level of dirt would cause a significant problem. The scenario is much worse with vehicles that use the EGR system. The problem you describe is also related to the IAC valve seen just above the oil dipstick attached to the engine with 2 screws at 01:20, which appears to be in poor condition.
I resolve that problem by upgrading my throttle body in a mod gave a little bit more horsepower and resolve the same problem for pretty much the same cost that it would have been to just by another throttle body
Hello, nice vid. I have a focus 1.6(FYDA engine) with a serious vacuum in the gastank . To a point where you need effort to unscrew the gascap. You can literally hear the air being sucked in like a vacuumcleaner. this car also starts dropping rpm after like 5 minutes. Any clue? Regards
hi our ford focus 2002 has started to shudder and feels like its losing power then a burst of power and off I go , do you think cleaning this part will help ?
Hi there, no I think the issue you have is something else, perhaps an issue with fuel injectors. I'm not an expert on these cars really so I'm afraid I can't give you a clear answer. I would recommend you take it to a professional mechanic.
I've tried this, and a new idle control valve and it hasn't solved the problem. No fault codes found in the ECU. I had the ECU upgrade reflash that should have been done at a ford dealer some years back and this has cured it cutting out completely BUT the idling problem still persists. I have visited many garages and all are at a loss. No air leaks. I had it fully service inc belt by a trusted mechanic. I can now drive the car, but only after the ford idle map was installed. My next line of investigation is the water temperature sensor (or cylinder head sensor, I think it's also known by) .Ps. There is no MAF sensor on the airbox on the version I have.
I had a similar problem on a Dodge avenger 2.0ltr petrol. Got steadly worse then went into a terrible engine shaking all overI bought one of throttle things specifically for it and then had a dealer reset the fault codes and job done.
Hi there, this car doesn't belong to me, so I haven't used it since I did the repair, but apparently it is fine now. It sounds to me like your issue might be the idle control valve, as this would regulate the engine speed when you turn on the AC
I have a Ford Mondeo mk2 1.8 zetech petrol and I have a problem with Revving up the engine. Even in neural the car won’t rev over 2700 if I mash the throttle but if I just press it gently than it revs higher. Could this be the problem? I also have to mention that I get a maf sensor malfunction code and also that the air is too hot. Help?
I have a lean code I can’t seem To solve I had the entire gas system change and filter still giving the lean code but I realize that when I take off a vacuum hose which is run to the electron by the power steer reservoir it don’t go a bad idle but lean code still comes up any ideas of hw to solve I hv a hatch back ztec 1.6
Check the breather hose just underneath the inlet manifold they perish turn the engine off and listen for a hiss around that area There about 27 pounds from Ford
I'm the only person in the United States with a dash clock in my MK1 focus, Did you think about buying a new throttle body sensor for the part it might save you trouble down the road.
No the sensor on the throttle body is the throttle position sensor or TPS. The MAF sensor or mass airflow sensor is on the air cleaner tube. (The big tube where one end connects to throttle body and other end connects to a big black box with an air filter inside of it)
Hi man, Looks very interesting. My 2004 Focus 1.6L has the same problem, and I want to clean the throttle body. I couldn't understand how did you disassembly the part to the left of the throttle body, because the video is edited. Could you please guide me how to do so? even better by a video/pics. I'll really appreciate it if yo do. Read more
Hi there. First remove the pipe which runs between the air cleaner and the throttle body, there is a spring clip on each end which holds it in place. You should be able to undo them with a pair of pliers, but it's a bit fiddly! Then remove the metal plate on top of the throttle body which holds the accelerator cable, then unclip the accelerator cable loop from the throttle body. Then there are four screws which secure the throttle body to the intake manifold. That is basically all there is to it! :)
Sorry, this is not my car and I don't have access to it anymore, so I can't take a picture. As far as I remember it just had a loop of wire which you can slide off the end of the lever on the throttle body. I did this job nearly a year ago so I don't remember exactly how it works now. I don't remember it being difficult though. Can I suggest perhaps that you get hold of a service manual for your car which would help you with this and other jobs
Hola mi amigo, disculpe mi Inglés, desconecte la válvula IAC, porque durante el encendido, hasta el número de revoluciones de 2000 y hasta 1200 rpm .... desconecte el IAC y no hay luz del motor del cheque, ¿por qué se enciende si se desconecta ? Y de esta manera, todo se normalizó, esta a 900 rpm. ¿El sistema EGR tiene nada que ver con eso?
Hi there, I am sorry but I don't fully understand your question. If you disconnect the IAC you will see the engine check light because the car thinks it is broken. If you get abnormal idle speed when the IAC is connected it is most probably faulty and needs to be replaced. It shouldn't have anything to do with the EGR.
Hello, yeah, sorry for not explaining well, when I disconnect the iac, it does not start check engine, there is no check engine (should it be true)? ... before disconnecting, the vehicle is oscillating between 1500-2000 rpm, when iac is switched off, it normalizes to 900 rpm. So ask whether egr or deffp are related to the engine load that compensates for the airflow. No dtc check code
Ok I understand. I'm sorry but I don't really know enough about these cars to give you a sure answer. On some cars the IAC isn't connected to the engine diagnostics, so maybe it won't show the engine check light when it is disconnected. As far as I know, it is only the IAC and the throttle that controls airflow to the engine, so when it is disconnected the engine will only be getting the air that is flowing around the throttle body. The amount of air that can flow through will always be the same so the engine speed will stay level. I think the problem could be a faulty MAF (airflow sensor) or a faulty IAC.
Another You Tuber has used electrical contact cleaner. He said that throttle body cleaner is designed for cleaning metal and the Focus has plastic..... Any thoughts from anybody on this?
NO!!!!! You have to make sure and only ever remove the throttle body between the months of September and December! It is VITAL to observe these restrictions or the car may idle too high. (and obviously, you know about the brakes between December and March and the Rev limiter after midnight but before 7 AM....9 AM on a Sunday )
Try Italian tune up and, premium fuel, full bottle of Redex or similar with only half a tank of fuel. Or spray a load of maf or Tbody cleaner into the air intake whilst someone revs it so it doesn't cut out. Yeah it's a cowboy method but sometimes works. I fucked my Honda crv when I cleaned the IACV and T body, I put it back on incorrectly and coolant ran in to the engine. So if your not a genius or firing on all cylinders on the day you want to do it properly , don't bother.
Tried that, no good mate. It still cuts out. SO.... Took my car to a mapper and he said it had never had the map update provided by ford many years ago. £100 later....this stopped it cutting out on me, BUT, the idle then went up to 3000rpm! I have changed nearly every sensor and the only one that stopped it going above 3000rpm was the idle control valve. Now it idles at 2000rpm slowly dropping to 1100rpm. It will pull the car along on it's own at 2000rpm without me using the throttle. I hate this car. Luckily someone ran into the back of it, and hopefully it'll be written off soon!!!!!
Fab thank you! Just cleaned mine and stopped it cutting out 😊 Combined with 2CarPros video below to remove throttle. Both have excellent points to complete the job and prevent issues. th-cam.com/video/20-Dyq3fmNA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=gD7lRqMmD6iX9Y9I
You shouldn't use that 'carb cleaner' on the throttle body. It's made for carburetors, which are an entirely different part. My advice for anyone trying to clean that throttle body is to just wipe it gently with a wet tissue, like the ones that are safe for skin.
![เปิด อาณาจักร หมื่นล้าน "สาระตั้ม" l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3XE0nPF4YkQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you very much for the video. My Focus was struggling at idle somewhere around 650 rpm. The throttle body had a good layer of dried up gunk around the edges. I let a throttle cleaner soaked rag stay in the body for about an hour and almost all of the residue came off. Now she idles at about 850 rpm real clean and steady. 💪🏻
Just followed this video to sort a rough idle on my 100,000 mile 02 plate MK1 Ford Focus which was vibrating a lot when idle. It worked a treat so thanks for this. I must say though that you need some good cranked screwdrivers and a Torx head bit to get in to those bolts as they are in tricky positions. I replaced the Ford Jubilee clips with 50-60mm screw driven ones whilst doing the job as they are easier for me to remove without the special tool. The old ones just break off with a good twist. Loads of black soot had built up in there. Cost of job, new cranked screw driver with removable heads £10. Jubilee clips £12 bag of ten. Throttle body cleaner probably £7ish. Satisfaction £priceless. If you can borrow some tools though you'd only have the throttle body cleaner to pay for. Thanks again.
I would like to say Thank you very much for your help, I have a ford fiesta 2003 zetec with this same idling issue, and thanks to you I was able to fix the car yesterday, so glad I found this video, thanks again for all your help. Superstar 👍
Thank you for the video love my Focus 2004 300.000 km + still going strong 🎉❤😊
Cheers for the video.
My 05 Ghia is a bit sluggish and starting to stall out at tick over.
I will give the throttle body a clean with carb cleaner and see what happens.
My focus 1.8 tddi 2001 has 700.000km++ and still running smoothly
Old ford diesel are tanks, and will run until the rust eats away the entire car body
@@dan_6915 I sold it with "340.000km" because of an accident in which my car was slammed from behind by a car in which another car bamped and I got a second impact. Even after all of the fixing the car was never the same, shaking on speeds greater than 110km/h.
Intelligent, well-made, informative piece of work here. Thank you!
Symptoms: Deceleration at a junction, into 3rd gear.... Engine cuts out - no steering - all dead. Nearly causing accident.. Restart the engine - all fine. No warning lights other than the Battery Light - so maybe it was not idling fast enough.. Anyway copied exactly what you said in the video, including using Wynnes Carb Cleaner inside and out because the intake was 'SO SO grubby and caked in black grime. Well 20 minutes later all re-set and put back together... Had to re-enter the RADIO Code so make sure you have this before you disconnect the battery.. Now it works immaculately and idling slightly faster. So I am a very very happy bunny. I could not believe how grubby the intake was. But I thoroughly recommend the process in the Video. I know there is a story that says DO NOT use the Carb Cleaner Fluid but there is no way I could have cleaned it without the using the Carb Cleaner. So using a tooth brush and the spray and now it looks like new. Thank you and your following for all the advice. It Works!
Still running okay?
UPDATE:
2 problems on my ZX3. 1. Collapsed PCV line at idle. 2. Fuel rail pressure sensor diaphragm was leaking gas. This was flooding the car at idle. I replace the coil, plugs and wires too but that problem after the vaccuum line PCV stuff was replaced was the fuel rail pressure sensor for sure. Leaking gas into the intake manifold, flooding the car at idle when warm. But, its fixed as of now!!! No more rough idle.
Guessing yours is a deisel
@@imnotfarting Nope, it's gasoline powered
Mine had the collapsed PCV vacuum line. It throws a a P0320 code but the problem isn't the crankcase sensor at all. The elbow of the rubber line collapses while running and crank case pressure builds and the car won't idle either when put into gear.
Just replace that vacuum line which is 5/8". The line may look OK when cold or when the engine is off but when there is a vacuum, it'll collapse because the elbow area under the manifold will get soft.
My 2002 2.0 did this too. New hose is made better and has heat shielding.
Well that sorted my 58000 mile 1.6 grandad focus out.Serviced main dealer all its life,lived in a heated garage!But its never had a log run and as been to the shops on cold all the time.Same symptons,checked the idle speed control valve clean as whistle.So took of the airbox pipe from the throttle body looked clean! But no on closer inspection the edge of the flap had a build up of cack.Cleaned of with blue roll and brake cleaner.Bingo bobs your tuner.Cheers for the good video very helpful
Of course. If I have clothes and towel. Give me a bit, I'm trying to figure out why I got oil in my air filter
Oh and not only is the car fixed, she has never run better. 👌
I have a 03 focus w/Zetec 2.0 DOHC L4 Vin 3.automatic trans.the throttle body only controls the air intake.the (tps) throttle position sensor controls the fuel/it & other sensors relay 2 the computer/controlling how much fuel 2 deliver.tho I like ur video. I like seeing all the different models/motors.
Pipes connected to the pcv valve behind intake usually collapse if you squeeze them more so than lookin you'll feel there soft in places. bad earths can also cause the poor idle and cause the car to stall at times. The butterfly valve doesn't effect idle its the port to the side that's for the idle, there's also no need to remove the throttle body to clean it have some one hold the accelerator fully open or wedge a stick against the seat inside the car, use a soft tooth brush and carb cleaner to clean the valve, most times makes no difference its usually the pcv valve or poor earths
What do you mean by “bad earths”?
@@Northaxe bad earth's as In bad connections that are slightly corroded. Look for heavy electric cable bolted onto the engine and gearbox and go onto the chassy just remove them and clean them. There isn't many. Basicly any wires that u see that are easy to remove usually just one bolt remove and clean well even apply a bit of Copper grease, vaseline or normal grease just keeps a good connection. FYI negative or minus - sign or your car battery or any battery is earth
My recently bought Ford Focus has this problem but i never typed it onto the internet yet, and already TH-cam advices me this :D Like they don't need data mining anymore.. They just read your mind nowadays.
Having the same problem with mine. Drops to about 500 rpm and shudders slightly when the engine is warm, just after coming off the throttle ( ie, with clutch peddle down, stopping at a junction.) I'll be doing this job over the weekend and the idle control valve while I'm at it.
Devils Advocate I have the same problem...i have replaced the Idle control valve and the pcv hose behind the intake manifloid but nothing.....the rpms are low when am stopping in traffic ligths or push the clutch.....and sometimes it stalling......have you done anything?
Thanks.
I've cleaned out the ICV with throttle body cleaner. It already looked in good condition and pretty clean.
Not much change either for me.
I just got my OBD2 bluetooth dongle thing and installed Torque . . . battery voltages stay 14v~ even with a full load on the alternator ie, full beams, heater fan, radio and interior light. Battery on its own is 12.2v dips to 8 volts while cranking (not a good sign but car starts first time every-time within 2 seconds).
After doing a bit of research, the mk1 focus naturally have the lowest idle rpm giving great economy.
It may just need a good battery??
I'm popping over to my garage some time next week to see if the idle can be increased to about 850-900 rpm. It'll cost a little more in fuel but at least the car will hopefully stop shuddering.
Devils Advocate Any update from the problem?
Only very slightly improved since I bought a new cadmium battery. Apparently it had the original battery from early 2004 so it was about time for a replacement. I've changed the air filter, oil filter and new oil.
It still has a very low idle when the cars warmed up but it's not shuddering as much now. Only job that needs doing now is probably clean the whole throttle body when I've got some spare time.
did you fixed the problem ?
its not only a common problem on this Ford engine? alll car engines has the same problem over time when carbon gets build up. And you should definitely not use carb cleaner, it will wipe off that coating right away! The coating is also made to seal the plate correctly. If you remove the coating the car will run lean at idle, and you will get weird idle issues! because it gets too much air inside with the idle air contol valve. You can clean these throttlebodys just by spraying contact cleaner inside or maf cleaner.
Should I use a microfiber towel with the air mass flow sensor cleaner or just spray it and that's it?
you can use a very soft towel with contact cleaner.
Thank you. Just posted a comment about this on here and subsequently found this comment 👍
Disconnecting the the battery does not completely reset the ECU
You have to connect a jumper wire from the negative cable to to the positive after isolating the negative terminal from the negative cable end. Let it sit for 10 min. This will drain the capaciters in the ECU. Then complete your relearn process.
Yep I had to do this on 2003 focus wagon, after 7 1/2 years of replacing o2 sensors ( upper, lower, and gas tank) finally found Scott Kilmer showing that ☝🏾☝🏾 now it’s the best it’s run in 7 plus years 200 k miles 👍🏾
@@skyzonenaudreybanakas5920
I've got 280,000
Thnx Loads for this add on note!
Thanks. I need to do this on mine.
Can anyone tell me is there a gasket or just that plastic thing he showed us in the video?
Great video. Probably pulls more because the butterfly moves more freely
It's not particularly dirty, in fact I don't think that level of dirt would cause a significant problem. The scenario is much worse with vehicles that use the EGR system.
The problem you describe is also related to the IAC valve seen just above the oil dipstick attached to the engine with 2 screws at 01:20, which appears to be in poor condition.
I resolve that problem by upgrading my throttle body in a mod gave a little bit more horsepower and resolve the same problem for pretty much the same cost that it would have been to just by another throttle body
Hello, nice vid. I have a focus 1.6(FYDA engine) with a serious vacuum in the gastank . To a point where you need effort to unscrew the gascap. You can literally hear the air being sucked in like a vacuumcleaner. this car also starts dropping rpm after like 5 minutes. Any clue? Regards
Um vídeo melhor que o outro. Amigão, tu sabe qual é a marca desse seu coxim superior do motor?
my focus starts good high idle at first thin it comes down and off you go
Hello! Mi ford is 1.4 16v 2000! I have a problem with low idle! But the thing is only in trafic, what do you tink?
Your probably imagining it, what you mean is when the car is warm probably. Check your idle control valve underneath
it may need replacing.
Where can I get
1. Throttle body and
2. throttle sensor
Fir ford focus 2005?
hi our ford focus 2002 has started to shudder and feels like its losing power then a burst of power and off I go , do you think cleaning this part will help ?
Hi there, no I think the issue you have is something else, perhaps an issue with fuel injectors. I'm not an expert on these cars really so I'm afraid I can't give you a clear answer. I would recommend you take it to a professional mechanic.
I've tried this, and a new idle control valve and it hasn't solved the problem. No fault codes found in the ECU. I had the ECU upgrade reflash that should have been done at a ford dealer some years back and this has cured it cutting out completely BUT the idling problem still persists. I have visited many garages and all are at a loss. No air leaks. I had it fully service inc belt by a trusted mechanic. I can now drive the car, but only after the ford idle map was installed. My next line of investigation is the water temperature sensor (or cylinder head sensor, I think it's also known by) .Ps. There is no MAF sensor on the airbox on the version I have.
Tps maybe
Coil pack
How did you remove the clamp there is no screws
I had a similar problem on a Dodge avenger 2.0ltr petrol. Got steadly worse then went into a terrible engine shaking all overI bought one of throttle things specifically for it and then had a dealer reset the fault codes and job done.
Is it the same problem if my rpm are going from 800 to 1300, back and forth when idle?
id start wit cleaning your battery terminals lol
Hello , where are it map sensor and air intake sensor help me pls , ı dont find
has the problem still gone away. what happen when you turn on the ac unit while driving???
Hi there, this car doesn't belong to me, so I haven't used it since I did the repair, but apparently it is fine now. It sounds to me like your issue might be the idle control valve, as this would regulate the engine speed when you turn on the AC
Rob G oke i will look into that. Thanks for your quick repley
I have a Ford Mondeo mk2 1.8 zetech petrol and I have a problem with Revving up the engine. Even in neural the car won’t rev over 2700 if I mash the throttle but if I just press it gently than it revs higher. Could this be the problem? I also have to mention that I get a maf sensor malfunction code and also that the air is too hot. Help?
The car also shutters when throttle is placed to the floor when driving as it hits the 2.500 mark and stops there. Feels like it’s stalling 🤷🏻♂️
Can i use break cleaner?
Yes or even wd40
This happens in renault old engines also. I had same issue back in 2010
Pull the IAC off and blast it clean with Gumout spray.
What tools did you require to complete this job ?
I have a lean code I can’t seem To solve I had the entire gas system change and filter still giving the lean code but I realize that when I take off a vacuum hose which is run to the electron by the power steer reservoir it don’t go a bad idle but lean code still comes up any ideas of hw to solve I hv a hatch back ztec 1.6
Check the breather hose just underneath the inlet manifold they perish turn the engine off and listen for a hiss around that area
There about 27 pounds from Ford
I'm the only person in the United States with a dash clock in my MK1 focus, Did you think about buying a new throttle body sensor for the part it might save you trouble down the road.
In this case it was just a quick fix for a friend's car. If it had been my own car I probably would have done
I have the 16V 2.0 Zetec DOHC
Its because the fuel pump or a fuel filter trust mee
WHAT IS THE SENSOR ATTACHED TO THE THROTTLE BHODY? IS IT A MAP SENSOR?
No the sensor on the throttle body is the throttle position sensor or TPS. The MAF sensor or mass airflow sensor is on the air cleaner tube. (The big tube where one end connects to throttle body and other end connects to a big black box with an air filter inside of it)
Maf sensor is the one on the bottom have to go under the car
İyi günler bilgisayar olmadan adaptasyon yapabiliyor muyuz nasıl yapılır
Muito bom parabéns
Wooooowwwww! You are great! I make It on my Focus! Thanks
Hi man,
Looks very interesting.
My 2004 Focus 1.6L has the same problem, and I want to clean the throttle body.
I couldn't understand how did you disassembly the part to the left of the throttle body, because the video is edited.
Could you please guide me how to do so? even better by a video/pics.
I'll really appreciate it if yo do.
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Hi there. First remove the pipe which runs between the air cleaner and the throttle body, there is a spring clip on each end which holds it in place. You should be able to undo them with a pair of pliers, but it's a bit fiddly! Then remove the metal plate on top of the throttle body which holds the accelerator cable, then unclip the accelerator cable loop from the throttle body. Then there are four screws which secure the throttle body to the intake manifold. That is basically all there is to it! :)
Actually I don't know how to unclip the acceleration cable loop from the throttle body.
Can you take a picture of it please?
Sorry, this is not my car and I don't have access to it anymore, so I can't take a picture. As far as I remember it just had a loop of wire which you can slide off the end of the lever on the throttle body. I did this job nearly a year ago so I don't remember exactly how it works now. I don't remember it being difficult though. Can I suggest perhaps that you get hold of a service manual for your car which would help you with this and other jobs
OK cool. thanks a lot!
I think i figured it out, your steering wheel is on wrong side of car. LOL thanks
Hola mi amigo, disculpe mi Inglés, desconecte la válvula IAC, porque durante el encendido, hasta el número de revoluciones de 2000 y hasta 1200 rpm .... desconecte el IAC y no hay luz del motor del cheque, ¿por qué se enciende si se desconecta ? Y de esta manera, todo se normalizó, esta a 900 rpm. ¿El sistema EGR tiene nada que ver con eso?
Hi there, I am sorry but I don't fully understand your question. If you disconnect the IAC you will see the engine check light because the car thinks it is broken. If you get abnormal idle speed when the IAC is connected it is most probably faulty and needs to be replaced. It shouldn't have anything to do with the EGR.
Hello, yeah, sorry for not explaining well, when I disconnect the iac, it does not start check engine, there is no check engine (should it be true)? ... before disconnecting, the vehicle is oscillating between 1500-2000 rpm, when iac is switched off, it normalizes to 900 rpm. So ask whether egr or deffp are related to the engine load that compensates for the airflow. No dtc check code
Ok I understand. I'm sorry but I don't really know enough about these cars to give you a sure answer. On some cars the IAC isn't connected to the engine diagnostics, so maybe it won't show the engine check light when it is disconnected.
As far as I know, it is only the IAC and the throttle that controls airflow to the engine, so when it is disconnected the engine will only be getting the air that is flowing around the throttle body. The amount of air that can flow through will always be the same so the engine speed will stay level. I think the problem could be a faulty MAF (airflow sensor) or a faulty IAC.
Carb cleaner is not the same as throttle body cleaner
Well done bro good job 👍
Another You Tuber has used electrical contact cleaner. He said that throttle body cleaner is designed for cleaning metal and the Focus has plastic..... Any thoughts from anybody on this?
But yes, mines doing the same thing. 2004 MK1 face-lift. 118k.
NO!!!!! You have to make sure and only ever remove the throttle body between the months of September and December! It is VITAL to observe these restrictions or the car may idle too high. (and obviously, you know about the brakes between December and March and the Rev limiter after midnight but before 7 AM....9 AM on a Sunday )
Try Italian tune up and, premium fuel, full bottle of Redex or similar with only half a tank of fuel. Or spray a load of maf or Tbody cleaner into the air intake whilst someone revs it so it doesn't cut out. Yeah it's a cowboy method but sometimes works.
I fucked my Honda crv when I cleaned the IACV and T body, I put it back on incorrectly and coolant ran in to the engine. So if your not a genius or firing on all cylinders on the day you want to do it properly , don't bother.
It's normal mine does too
i love your focus 1.6 lx fam did you know it's born in saarloius germany.
LDV-Washwood Heath Convoy-Maxus or Valencia Spain
Mine does this too
Rob! What are you doing with my car ?? 🤣
:-D
Tried that, no good mate. It still cuts out. SO....
Took my car to a mapper and he said it had never had the map update provided by ford many years ago. £100 later....this stopped it cutting out on me, BUT, the idle then went up to 3000rpm!
I have changed nearly every sensor and the only one that stopped it going above 3000rpm was the idle control valve. Now it idles at 2000rpm slowly dropping to 1100rpm. It will pull the car along on it's own at 2000rpm without me using the throttle. I hate this car. Luckily someone ran into the back of it, and hopefully it'll be written off soon!!!!!
Your not suppose to clean the throttle body with brake cleaner or carb cleaner.. read the sticker on the top of the throttle body it tells you!
If you watch the video I address this
Rob G sorry if I come across shirty mate.. only come across this myself and found the sticker fallen off sitting in the engine bay, good vid👍🏻
Sounds like a swirl flap problem. Listen how loud.
I have same focus 2002 even color :DDDD
Fab thank you! Just cleaned mine and stopped it cutting out 😊
Combined with 2CarPros video below to remove throttle. Both have excellent points to complete the job and prevent issues. th-cam.com/video/20-Dyq3fmNA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=gD7lRqMmD6iX9Y9I
You could of at least showed us how you took it off lol
Job was a gooden.
You shouldn't use that 'carb cleaner' on the throttle body. It's made for carburetors, which are an entirely different part.
My advice for anyone trying to clean that throttle body is to just wipe it gently with a wet tissue, like the ones that are safe for skin.
Havent shown the most important bit of diy
👎