@@blakechunko9193 True, but I still would have liked to see him there. Also, he's not in magic wood with the others, so he won't be in any of the other footage either, which is what I really would have liked to see.
About the five ten quality going down... personally I used five ten for most of my climbing years before Adidas officially took over and brought all the production to Europe (I am from North America). For me, and for all my north American friends who used to climb with five ten, the quality took a big hit after the takeover. The edges tend to rip (unglue) super easily now, all the prices have gone up crazily and the shoes seem to last a lot less time compared to before. Most people I know have now switched brands, and now use Scarpa (especially the drago), la sportiva, Unparalleled, etc. I used to climb with Hiangles for bouldering and indoor climbing, and with the Dragons for sport climbing. Now I own Futuras, Pythons (that I bought in Europe obviously... such a shame it is not available in NA) and Scarpas Instinct VSR.
Being from Europe, I've tried a pair of So Ill's (north american produced) and was frankly disgusted at the quality. The shoe came out of the box with glue marks all over it and are arguably the most uncomfortable shoes I've ever tried. I'm just glad the majority of great climbing shoes are still produced in Europe (where quality is more important than a cool looking shoe, yes that's a 'dig' at So Ill).
I am totally on the other side: I have here 2 pairs of Skwama, one pair of instinct vs(Scarpa), dragon (5.10), Aleon (5.10). those 2 five-ten models beat without a doubt in quality all others in my opinion. btw the Aleon may be the best shoe I used ever. this thing feels like a weapon!
Well Matt Groom climbs in MadRocks like a madman so... he's probably looking for advice here. :) In all seriousness, I'd love to hear a bit more about some lesser known brands in Unparallel, Butora, and SoIll as well as some nuanced comparisons of climbing rubber. There's so little actual information on climbing rubbers!
As a long time shoe purchaser and obsesser lol I can say I’ve tried butora, soill, and madrock. Butora rubber is similar to the old evolv rubber, it’s good at the beginning but does seem to sort of gloss over after a day outside. Across are great shoes but once the rubber became glossy it was quite disappointing. For soill the shoes themselves had sort of bad quality and stretched a good bit to the point of them being a little baggy. For the rubber, they worked well but I wore through it quickly. Madrock is my favorite of the group honestly! The rubber is sticky and soft and the heel is such a big cheater when you have to heel hook on small edges.
@@nathanweaver7322 I've heard the same on the SoILL build quality, although my hope is that some of those issues will be addressed in their new Pro Lineup. It's also curious to me that their rubber is regarded as wearing quickly, when it's in the same line (same rubber?) as the Unparallel rubber which is... supposedly essentially Stealth C4. And curious to hear on the Madrocks! If I can get over my prejudices I'll give them a second look. As for Butora - I love their fits, but yeah the rubber has let me down a little bit. Although it seems good enough for Black Diamond athletes to get on the podium so what do I know?
thesii213 definitely recommend madrock! Once I got over the idea of buying from bigger brands I came to realize they create some of my new favorite shoes!
So Ill shoes are crap and so is their customer service. The most unfriendly people I've ever dealt with. It's a shame they are clearly too involved in how the shoe looks then actually producing some quality products. On top of that, considering the two main climbers that promote their shoes are essentially movie stars says a lot about it (and having almost no professional climbers, be it, oldschool trad dads or comp climbers). I would look at Tenaya if you want to try something new.
@@flowthewolf1 I mean, they've got Meghan Martin and Toshi Takeuchi, but I hear you. I've seen their velcro straps tear in my gym. Still, the rubber is supposed to be the same as Unparallel, which I think Tomoa Narasaki used to win 1st in the bouldering world cup so... But yeah. I'm super interested in Tenaya, but have a widish foot and have had a tough time finding a shoe that works for me. They also seem to use the OG Vibram Grip and not Grip2, which is curious to me. Any thoughts?
Those Aleon´s may be the best shoe i ever owned! i wear them now for about 3-4 months and the feel near perfect in so many sitiuations! i am totaly on board with eric about the heel. highly recommend. i wear them in uk 9 while streetshoe size is 8,5 - 9.
Bought a pair of the Five Ten Gambit Lace shoes last May, and they have lasted me right up until 3 days ago. Those same shoes made it up several walls in Yosemite, multiple DWS' and other outdoor climbs, as well is 2-3x weekly gym sessions. Maybe not the most breathable shoe but got the job done just fine for me. Paid $40.00 in an Adidas super sale. Solid investment.
Could you do a review of the Scarpa Furia Air? Would love to know how they do cause they‘re super soft and light. And the only reviews of them are made by Scarpa
Most climbers use different ones. Indoor and outdoor are very different styles of climbing. Indoors have relatively big footholds compared to outdoors and are much more dynamic. Dynamic moves normally require a softer more flexible shoe whereas standing on tiny feet outdoors requires shoes that are stiffer as it works best for getting the weight through them. Also outdoors shoes always get dirty so it can be more practical to have multiple pairs.
Corey O'Brien many climbers do use different shoes indoors and outdoors, but this is mostly because folks will reserve a project shoe for outside and then use a beater shoe for much of the gym. From the perspective that most people buy maybe two pairs of shoes a year, this isn’t unreasonable as the majority will be trying out a new shoe in a different size almost every time as preferences and technologies change. However, for most terrain, I use one shoe, the Scarpa Chimera, and all of my pairs (7) bought this last year are the same size. Now, three pairs are for heavy mileage used for warmups, endurance, board training, and similar, two pairs are for serious projects, and two pairs are lightly broken in should a project pair be in need of a resole soon. Those project pairs see at least a couple problems every week inside because I want to know how each performs when I get back onto real rock with them. Too, while folks dismiss the gym, this is the training grounds for the vast majority of people, and why train with a subpar tool which informs your climbing incorrectly? As an aside, I have recently adopted the Veloces for my mileage pairs as the Chimeras wear atop the toe patch first which means resoling has to be done early to avoid puncturing the upper, and my price point means new Veloces are less expensive and longer lasting than resoled Chimeras with a new toe cap which will slightly warp the fit. As another aside, rock and hold types will matter, with more distinct and severe edges favoring stiffer shoes while smooth smears benefit from softer shoes and the advantage of downcamber in a shoe depends on how overhanging. However, I think the shoe which fits your foot absolutely best and which you are most familiar with will perform best.
Evolv x1 have the dodgiest sizing I've ever come across. The rule of thumb for evolv is usually stick to your street size but good luck squeezing into street size x1s; you'll need to size up like 1.5-2 sizes. Brutal for people ordering online. You have been warned.
My previous Evolv Shaman got super stinky, but they were also 3+ years old. With my new pair I got some of those little anti stink bags to put in them when not using them. Seems to help.
Used to be a huge 5.10 fan and one of those guys that doesn't like the Adidas takeover. Butora holds up well for my gym members and seems to climb well. My next pair Will be Butora or Mad Rock Drones.
As someone still wearing la sportiva cliff 5's from 12 years ago (only been bouldering for 9 months), I think anything is better. I just don't want to fall into the trap of thinking it's the shoes and not my technique that is an issue just yet.
In regards to the adidas/5.10 argument I weigh in on the side of quality loss. However, only in regards to the moccasym, as that's the only experience I have with 5.10 shoes. The new adidas moccs are inconsistently sized and the leather has been shown to tear near the elastic band. I compared sizes between an old pair and a new pair and the size difference is a little shy of half an inch, even in light of break ins on both. It's a shame as I love a good slipper and some stealth rubber.
On the fiveten-adidas takeover, I didn't use any of their newer models, but what really bothered me was that they discontinued the Blackwings. I understand it's an old design, but I feel like that shoe had a lot of love going for it, so it was sad to see it go. The hiangle, which I think was the natural replacement for the blackwing, is not really the same shoe, and I haven't looked at the Aleon.
I need a new pair of shoes for competitions but my budget is not too big, I consider anything above 170$ CAD too expensive. I need a pair of shoes that are pretty much all around for competitions, any suggestions?
Felix Walton cuz I’ve stuck with the hiangles for pretty much all the time I started climbing more intensly. I’m looking for a shoe that has similar rubber, but it was baggy on the sides and on the front, even though the length was perfect.
ive got the hiangle synthetic they are excellent, extremely comfortable and sensitive, super accurate toe. gym use. i wouldn't want to crack climb with them, and they have a tiny split in the toe after three months of use so not the most durable. i don't really care that adidas owns 5.10. i'll prob try the dragon vcs for a stiffer shoe
I just got the drones for an absolute steal (65 euros) went a full eu size up from my street size wich to me felt perfect. Just climbed one session in them though but am absolutely loving them. Definetly a huge upgrade from my previous shoes (decathlons own brand)
I've used Evolv Defy, MadRock Phoenix and La Sportiva Tarantulace. Among these three MadRock Phoenix offers the most perfect fit for me. The heel is snug but not constricting which I love.I just love the whole rubber heel of the MadRock Phoenix it feels like a second skin. The Evolv my first shoe was convenient but has a smell even after washing them. The La Sportiva I'm still new to them I only have them for a month and they are also good fitting still stiff though. I'm just used to the heel cup of the MadRock Phoenix. The Evolv and MadRock I got them from a friend at a friendly price, the rubber are a bit worn though. Now I'm saving money to buy bouldering shoes preferably aggressive ones and I'm doing research weighing the pros and cons of each brand. I'm looking for durable, breathable and flexible shoes, also I'm leaning towards laces. Any tips on finding a good bouldering shoe? The one that currently caught my eyes is the La Sportiva Testarossa.
Hey Matt, the part of the shoe you call the midsole is actually the outsole. The Oracles have a split outsole, but also possess a midsole. The Midsole goes in between the upper and the rubber. That's what gives a shoe it's stiffness/softness. Some midsoles are full length, but some are just under the toe box. The testarossas have a small 3D molded midsole beneath the toes. It's really important to know this because it can make or break your choice in shoes. Also, I have a more detailed review of the Oracles on my channel. Come check it out!
Bought a pair of Mad Rock Drone HV pretty recently, definitely enjoying them for overhangs and they're pretty comfortable in general. Seems like I overpaid though, mine cost me $129.00 and you've got them for $96.02 :(
Someone help me here I bought some muria vs from la sportiva I'm size 8 Street shoes and I got them in 6.5 as its meant to be "Snug" but I climbed in them for thee first time and they hurt like mad should I just return them or just keep wearing them till they don't hurt
Just keep wearing them and they'll stretch perfectly and will be a great all around shoe. I sized 1 size down and have used the Muria's for everything. Good luck.
Miura VS are aggressive shoes so they'll hurt like hell if they don't fit the shape of your foot. It's important to shop around until you find the shoe that fits snug with no air pockets or areas that chafe. For me, Katana lace molds to my feet perfectly.
I’ve had the older think was 2014/15 5.10 highangle was a brill shoe but hard to break in. Then got stolen 🤬 with all my gear. Had to re stock so got the 5.10 Adidas kirigami not a bad budget shoe and also good for longer routes and days. As I’ve upgraded now in the scarpa drago brilliant shoe but suffers in very hot sessions. Always carry the kirigami as a fall back.
I have large feets and all the climbing shoes that I use it feels bad in the tip even when it feels tight in the rest of my feet, I am from Brazil and here every shoe are so expensive that can't afford new ones every time that my last purchase isn't that good, can someone help me? I'm pretty sad cuz I didn't reach the precision that I need.
I reccomend the la sportiva genius. It has laces and is wide in the toe box, so it's pretty adjustable so you can dial it in. If you dont like no edge, maybe try the la sportiva testarossa. The have an edge but are pretty similar in most other ways.
Would be more interested what the 'scandinavian/british secrets' are to get that big on TH-cam!? I mean Erik is in terms of followers FAR apart from any pro climber who make nice outdoor bouldering videos as P-Rob. Not to mention Magnus Mitboe who has 10 times more followers than Chris Sharma has. I guess there must be a secret 🤷🏼♂️ Or are those climbers who enjoy P-Rob stylish outdoor bouldering videos like me are threatened with extinction?
i just use a disinfectant spray after climbing and don‘t put them inside my backpack. My shoes smell like new after 8 months. (i don‘t climb that much tho)
I’m a big time wearer of 5.10 (basically the only brand that fits me) and my pairs last 10-12 months climbing 3/4 times a week. So personally I think the ‘quality drop’ is nonsense.
JEdit23 I recently bought the Rogue 5.10s and blew out the toes in both of them in under six weeks, I loved the fit and feel and I really liked the stealth rubber but the lack of durability was a major issue. Needless to say my first experience with 5.10s was not a good one but other models might have better reviews than the Rogues.
It is an odd concept to screen gear opinions from people who are probably not qualified to understand their own gear. Yes it is content, yes it gets clicks, but the majority of people shown on here, well yes, ..... you wouldn't go find someone flapping about at the crag on average lines to get their views on gear they can not use to its capacity.
Interesting opinion. However, two of those climbers shown climb up to Font 8B...we would suggest that is near the capacity of the shoes. They use the shoes a lot and are heavily involved in the industry. Also, most people who buy climbing shoes are not pros, so is it not useful to hear the opinions of well informed amateur climbers? People who are nearer to most climbers?
How an expert uses a piece of gear is not much use to an average climber. Just because Chris Sharma thinks a particular shoe is great doesn't mean I'll think it's great for me. I think the average climber is perfectly capable of determining what type of gear is comfortable or easy to use and maintain.
i have seen this woman climb (the bouldering dabrat) and funny she is giving advice on shoes because she is very bad at using her feet. I do not think she should give advice on shoes because she does not seem to know very much about what is a good shoe. There is an other woman who is part of that channel who is better with her feet. Why did she not take the interview :D
Oh well different levels, different advice. Maybe someone on her level of skill would have more benefit hearing her thoughts instead of emil's one which climb much much harder!
@@XibaXela Somewhat disagree tbh. Just because beginners/intermediates won't get all the benefits out of some high end shoes, doesn't mean they should fall for the beginner shoe scam. Beginner shoes are useless and shouldn't even exist. Thick, non sticky rubber, stiff soles. Useless. They're overly stiff and supportive and just lead to beginners deveoping bad habits and sloppy footwork because there's no sensitivity and feedback that punishes them for poor footwork. Beginners should be wearing soft shoes to strengthen their toes and develop better technique because they feel the rock/plastic more. Beginners should wear any soft shoe. Maybe not $180-$200 pairs, but because a lot of soft shoes tend to be somewhat aggressive, beginners definitely shouldn't be put off. Basic unlined slippers like Evolv Addicts, 5.10 moccasyms are super soft and ideal for beginners, but they should also not be put off buying other soft more aggressive shoes like evolv x1s, scarpa SR, scarpa VS-R, la sportiva cobra, la sportiva pythons. Honestly, I wouldn't even say no to a beginner who's considering buying scarpa furias if they can afford to replace them after they blow through that 3/3.5mm rubber in a few months. After a beginner/intermediate develops good footwork technique and strong toes, then they can consider stiffer, aggressive shoes like miuras for example.
I always love how climbing daily values the TH-cam climbers just as much as the pros and has them featured
These days what’s the difference! They’re all so talented
These interviews are lovely! Awesome for including the Dabrats as well
This is clickbait: It didn't say what shoes my favourite TH-camr Hugo wears.
Hugo has the La Sportiva Katana Laces.
And the BD Momentums.
Clip of Tom climbing in his Instinct VS at 0:29 and then he's talking about his Evolv shoes in the interview
Got em 😅
I noticed the same lol
Very cool gear show!
Missing Magnus though.
everyone knows magnus climbs in dragos
@@blakechunko9193 True, but I still would have liked to see him there.
Also, he's not in magic wood with the others, so he won't be in any of the other footage either, which is what I really would have liked to see.
@@blakechunko9193 That's wrong, Magnus is climbing in chalk.
Most TH-cam videos are missing out on Magnus...
Epic Tv couldn't afford him....
About the five ten quality going down... personally I used five ten for most of my climbing years before Adidas officially took over and brought all the production to Europe (I am from North America). For me, and for all my north American friends who used to climb with five ten, the quality took a big hit after the takeover. The edges tend to rip (unglue) super easily now, all the prices have gone up crazily and the shoes seem to last a lot less time compared to before. Most people I know have now switched brands, and now use Scarpa (especially the drago), la sportiva, Unparalleled, etc.
I used to climb with Hiangles for bouldering and indoor climbing, and with the Dragons for sport climbing. Now I own Futuras, Pythons (that I bought in Europe obviously... such a shame it is not available in NA) and Scarpas Instinct VSR.
Have Adidas even made any shoes with them yet? I thought they were still selling 5.10 dead stock
Being from Europe, I've tried a pair of So Ill's (north american produced) and was frankly disgusted at the quality. The shoe came out of the box with glue marks all over it and are arguably the most uncomfortable shoes I've ever tried. I'm just glad the majority of great climbing shoes are still produced in Europe (where quality is more important than a cool looking shoe, yes that's a 'dig' at So Ill).
I am totally on the other side: I have here 2 pairs of Skwama, one pair of instinct vs(Scarpa), dragon (5.10), Aleon (5.10). those 2 five-ten models beat without a doubt in quality all others in my opinion. btw the Aleon may be the best shoe I used ever. this thing feels like a weapon!
So excited for the collabs coming soon! I love all their channels so seeing this huge collab is going to be awesome
I play a game where I try to identify what shoes they're wearing in the videos. So I IMMEDIATELY had to watch this!!
awesome, how good were your guesses?
So happy to see Annie in this!!
I really enjoyed that. Big Yay to all my favorite TH-camrs in one spot. So proud of the DabRats
Everyone watching this video: "When are they finally start talking about why my shoe is the best?"
Exactly why I was so mad that Eric didn't get to talk about his Skwamas
I love this collab good on you EpicTV can't wait to see what you did climbing
Cool to see everyone together! I want to go to magic woods one day!
I've really enjoyed all the content from this collaboration. Keep it up!!
Well Matt Groom climbs in MadRocks like a madman so... he's probably looking for advice here. :) In all seriousness, I'd love to hear a bit more about some lesser known brands in Unparallel, Butora, and SoIll as well as some nuanced comparisons of climbing rubber. There's so little actual information on climbing rubbers!
As a long time shoe purchaser and obsesser lol I can say I’ve tried butora, soill, and madrock. Butora rubber is similar to the old evolv rubber, it’s good at the beginning but does seem to sort of gloss over after a day outside. Across are great shoes but once the rubber became glossy it was quite disappointing. For soill the shoes themselves had sort of bad quality and stretched a good bit to the point of them being a little baggy. For the rubber, they worked well but I wore through it quickly. Madrock is my favorite of the group honestly! The rubber is sticky and soft and the heel is such a big cheater when you have to heel hook on small edges.
@@nathanweaver7322 I've heard the same on the SoILL build quality, although my hope is that some of those issues will be addressed in their new Pro Lineup. It's also curious to me that their rubber is regarded as wearing quickly, when it's in the same line (same rubber?) as the Unparallel rubber which is... supposedly essentially Stealth C4.
And curious to hear on the Madrocks! If I can get over my prejudices I'll give them a second look. As for Butora - I love their fits, but yeah the rubber has let me down a little bit. Although it seems good enough for Black Diamond athletes to get on the podium so what do I know?
thesii213 definitely recommend madrock! Once I got over the idea of buying from bigger brands I came to realize they create some of my new favorite shoes!
So Ill shoes are crap and so is their customer service. The most unfriendly people I've ever dealt with. It's a shame they are clearly too involved in how the shoe looks then actually producing some quality products. On top of that, considering the two main climbers that promote their shoes are essentially movie stars says a lot about it (and having almost no professional climbers, be it, oldschool trad dads or comp climbers). I would look at Tenaya if you want to try something new.
@@flowthewolf1 I mean, they've got Meghan Martin and Toshi Takeuchi, but I hear you. I've seen their velcro straps tear in my gym. Still, the rubber is supposed to be the same as Unparallel, which I think Tomoa Narasaki used to win 1st in the bouldering world cup so... But yeah. I'm super interested in Tenaya, but have a widish foot and have had a tough time finding a shoe that works for me. They also seem to use the OG Vibram Grip and not Grip2, which is curious to me. Any thoughts?
my Evolv Agro and Nexxos were 1.5 and 1 size above my street shoe respectively, and the Agro actually fit tighter of the two
Those Aleon´s may be the best shoe i ever owned! i wear them now for about 3-4 months and the feel near perfect in so many sitiuations! i am totaly on board with eric about the heel. highly recommend. i wear them in uk 9 while streetshoe size is 8,5 - 9.
Bought a pair of the Five Ten Gambit Lace shoes last May, and they have lasted me right up until 3 days ago.
Those same shoes made it up several walls in Yosemite, multiple DWS' and other outdoor climbs, as well is 2-3x weekly gym sessions.
Maybe not the most breathable shoe but got the job done just fine for me. Paid $40.00 in an Adidas super sale. Solid investment.
Could you do a review of the Scarpa Furia Air? Would love to know how they do cause they‘re super soft and light. And the only reviews of them are made by Scarpa
I’m curious, do most climbers use different climbing shoes for indoor and outdoor climbing or do they use the same shoes for both?
Most climbers use different ones. Indoor and outdoor are very different styles of climbing. Indoors have relatively big footholds compared to outdoors and are much more dynamic. Dynamic moves normally require a softer more flexible shoe whereas standing on tiny feet outdoors requires shoes that are stiffer as it works best for getting the weight through them. Also outdoors shoes always get dirty so it can be more practical to have multiple pairs.
Corey O'Brien many climbers do use different shoes indoors and outdoors, but this is mostly because folks will reserve a project shoe for outside and then use a beater shoe for much of the gym. From the perspective that most people buy maybe two pairs of shoes a year, this isn’t unreasonable as the majority will be trying out a new shoe in a different size almost every time as preferences and technologies change.
However, for most terrain, I use one shoe, the Scarpa Chimera, and all of my pairs (7) bought this last year are the same size. Now, three pairs are for heavy mileage used for warmups, endurance, board training, and similar, two pairs are for serious projects, and two pairs are lightly broken in should a project pair be in need of a resole soon. Those project pairs see at least a couple problems every week inside because I want to know how each performs when I get back onto real rock with them. Too, while folks dismiss the gym, this is the training grounds for the vast majority of people, and why train with a subpar tool which informs your climbing incorrectly?
As an aside, I have recently adopted the Veloces for my mileage pairs as the Chimeras wear atop the toe patch first which means resoling has to be done early to avoid puncturing the upper, and my price point means new Veloces are less expensive and longer lasting than resoled Chimeras with a new toe cap which will slightly warp the fit.
As another aside, rock and hold types will matter, with more distinct and severe edges favoring stiffer shoes while smooth smears benefit from softer shoes and the advantage of downcamber in a shoe depends on how overhanging. However, I think the shoe which fits your foot absolutely best and which you are most familiar with will perform best.
Evolv x1 have the dodgiest sizing I've ever come across. The rule of thumb for evolv is usually stick to your street size but good luck squeezing into street size x1s; you'll need to size up like 1.5-2 sizes. Brutal for people ordering online. You have been warned.
lmao i ordered my evolv zenists a full size down and it’s painful but i love it
My previous Evolv Shaman got super stinky, but they were also 3+ years old. With my new pair I got some of those little anti stink bags to put in them when not using them. Seems to help.
The Tenaya Oasi LVs have a very nice, small heel. Love them a lot
Looking forward to the climbing content! Hope we get to see everyone having a smash.
Used to be a huge 5.10 fan and one of those guys that doesn't like the Adidas takeover. Butora holds up well for my gym members and seems to climb well. My next pair Will be Butora or Mad Rock Drones.
As someone still wearing la sportiva cliff 5's from 12 years ago (only been bouldering for 9 months), I think anything is better. I just don't want to fall into the trap of thinking it's the shoes and not my technique that is an issue just yet.
"Quality has gone up", I had the rubber on a new pair of 5.10 spilit, not wear, split like a log. Never had that on any non-adidas shoe.
In regards to the adidas/5.10 argument I weigh in on the side of quality loss. However, only in regards to the moccasym, as that's the only experience I have with 5.10 shoes. The new adidas moccs are inconsistently sized and the leather has been shown to tear near the elastic band. I compared sizes between an old pair and a new pair and the size difference is a little shy of half an inch, even in light of break ins on both. It's a shame as I love a good slipper and some stealth rubber.
As for comfort, Tenaya reigns supreme. The heels are flat enough as well to not have too much air in them.
On the fiveten-adidas takeover, I didn't use any of their newer models, but what really bothered me was that they discontinued the Blackwings. I understand it's an old design, but I feel like that shoe had a lot of love going for it, so it was sad to see it go. The hiangle, which I think was the natural replacement for the blackwing, is not really the same shoe, and I haven't looked at the Aleon.
I need a new pair of shoes for competitions but my budget is not too big, I consider anything above 170$ CAD too expensive. I need a pair of shoes that are pretty much all around for competitions, any suggestions?
Joel Amyotte if you don’t even know what shoes work for your feet why are u competing
Felix Walton cuz I’ve stuck with the hiangles for pretty much all the time I started climbing more intensly. I’m looking for a shoe that has similar rubber, but it was baggy on the sides and on the front, even though the length was perfect.
ive got the hiangle synthetic they are excellent, extremely comfortable and sensitive, super accurate toe. gym use. i wouldn't want to crack climb with them, and they have a tiny split in the toe after three months of use so not the most durable. i don't really care that adidas owns 5.10. i'll prob try the dragon vcs for a stiffer shoe
I won't stray away from Scarpa until someone makes a more comfortable shoe.
Evolv shakras are sooo comfy. Have you tried them?
Tenaya Mundaka/Mastia is comfy AF.
I just got the drones for an absolute steal (65 euros) went a full eu size up from my street size wich to me felt perfect. Just climbed one session in them though but am absolutely loving them. Definetly a huge upgrade from my previous shoes (decathlons own brand)
The new pythons have the best heel, for people with small heels:)
I've used Evolv Defy, MadRock Phoenix and La Sportiva Tarantulace. Among these three MadRock Phoenix offers the most perfect fit for me. The heel is snug but not constricting which I love.I just love the whole rubber heel of the MadRock Phoenix it feels like a second skin. The Evolv my first shoe was convenient but has a smell even after washing them. The La Sportiva I'm still new to them I only have them for a month and they are also good fitting still stiff though. I'm just used to the heel cup of the MadRock Phoenix. The Evolv and MadRock I got them from a friend at a friendly price, the rubber are a bit worn though.
Now I'm saving money to buy bouldering shoes preferably aggressive ones and I'm doing research weighing the pros and cons of each brand. I'm looking for durable, breathable and flexible shoes, also I'm leaning towards laces. Any tips on finding a good bouldering shoe?
The one that currently caught my eyes is the La Sportiva Testarossa.
Breaking shoes in lying down on bed is more than normal practice, isn't it?
Hey Matt, the part of the shoe you call the midsole is actually the outsole. The Oracles have a split outsole, but also possess a midsole. The Midsole goes in between the upper and the rubber. That's what gives a shoe it's stiffness/softness. Some midsoles are full length, but some are just under the toe box. The testarossas have a small 3D molded midsole beneath the toes. It's really important to know this because it can make or break your choice in shoes. Also, I have a more detailed review of the Oracles on my channel. Come check it out!
Bought a pair of Mad Rock Drone HV pretty recently, definitely enjoying them for overhangs and they're pretty comfortable in general. Seems like I overpaid though, mine cost me $129.00 and you've got them for $96.02 :(
Someone help me here I bought some muria vs from la sportiva I'm size 8 Street shoes and I got them in 6.5 as its meant to be "Snug" but I climbed in them for thee first time and they hurt like mad should I just return them or just keep wearing them till they don't hurt
Just keep wearing them and they'll stretch perfectly and will be a great all around shoe. I sized 1 size down and have used the Muria's for everything. Good luck.
Miura VS are aggressive shoes so they'll hurt like hell if they don't fit the shape of your foot. It's important to shop around until you find the shoe that fits snug with no air pockets or areas that chafe. For me, Katana lace molds to my feet perfectly.
I needed this video!
Ok, this will be a popular video! Good idea.
I’ve had the older think was 2014/15 5.10 highangle was a brill shoe but hard to break in. Then got stolen 🤬 with all my gear.
Had to re stock so got the 5.10 Adidas kirigami not a bad budget shoe and also good for longer routes and days. As I’ve upgraded now in the scarpa drago brilliant shoe but suffers in very hot sessions. Always carry the kirigami as a fall back.
Since Adidas has moved the Production to China, the sizees have changed. The hiangle is now much smaler than bevor.
I have large feets and all the climbing shoes that I use it feels bad in the tip even when it feels tight in the rest of my feet, I am from Brazil and here every shoe are so expensive that can't afford new ones every time that my last purchase isn't that good, can someone help me? I'm pretty sad cuz I didn't reach the precision that I need.
I reccomend the la sportiva genius. It has laces and is wide in the toe box, so it's pretty adjustable so you can dial it in. If you dont like no edge, maybe try the la sportiva testarossa. The have an edge but are pretty similar in most other ways.
Dillon Drew thank you !! I will try to find this one, on the internet i could found for BRL520,95, its half of my salary but its ok 👊💪
@@pheliplacerda2991 If money's a issue and you are looking for a performance shoe, the butora arco is the best you can get for the price. Its 160 USD.
My favorite TH-camrs wear Pleaser platform shoes
Would be more interested what the 'scandinavian/british secrets' are to get that big on TH-cam!? I mean Erik is in terms of followers FAR apart from any pro climber who make nice outdoor bouldering videos as P-Rob. Not to mention Magnus Mitboe who has 10 times more followers than Chris Sharma has. I guess there must be a secret 🤷🏼♂️ Or are those climbers who enjoy P-Rob stylish outdoor bouldering videos like me are threatened with extinction?
5ten Team is in my opinion a weapon
i just use a disinfectant spray after climbing and don‘t put them inside my backpack. My shoes smell like new after 8 months. (i don‘t climb that much tho)
Slightly perturbed that the only person who was questioned about sponsorship was Annie...?
I forgot to ask anyone else 😅 my plan was to let everyone know who was sponsored so we were being transparent. But then totally forgot
You missed Magnus Midtbø
👑
Great video!
i feel like the smell is a lot evolv too cause my zenists have been the worst smelling shoes i’ve ever owned
Can't wait for all these vids to come out :D
Well, no Magnus = disappointment. Glad I read the description before watching the video.
Scarpa and evolv
I see eric and emil, i like
yeah nice move epictv!!.... maybe you Will have more attention and vieres /subs ...all the way up !!! super cool i likeit more now!!!
I don’t know any of these cats.
Is it just me or does Annie remind any body else of Nigel Thornberry... and
DEM BE BOULDERING SHOES!!
Where is ondra
First!
I’m a big time wearer of 5.10 (basically the only brand that fits me) and my pairs last 10-12 months climbing 3/4 times a week. So personally I think the ‘quality drop’ is nonsense.
JEdit23 I recently bought the Rogue 5.10s and blew out the toes in both of them in under six weeks, I loved the fit and feel and I really liked the stealth rubber but the lack of durability was a major issue. Needless to say my first experience with 5.10s was not a good one but other models might have better reviews than the Rogues.
Where is Magnus?
just missing Magnus. Otherwise nice video
Would like to see more from a female perspective please
It is an odd concept to screen gear opinions from people who are probably not qualified to understand their own gear. Yes it is content, yes it gets clicks, but the majority of people shown on here, well yes, ..... you wouldn't go find someone flapping about at the crag on average lines to get their views on gear they can not use to its capacity.
Interesting opinion. However, two of those climbers shown climb up to Font 8B...we would suggest that is near the capacity of the shoes. They use the shoes a lot and are heavily involved in the industry. Also, most people who buy climbing shoes are not pros, so is it not useful to hear the opinions of well informed amateur climbers? People who are nearer to most climbers?
How an expert uses a piece of gear is not much use to an average climber. Just because Chris Sharma thinks a particular shoe is great doesn't mean I'll think it's great for me. I think the average climber is perfectly capable of determining what type of gear is comfortable or easy to use and maintain.
i have seen this woman climb (the bouldering dabrat) and funny she is giving advice on shoes because she is very bad at using her feet. I do not think she should give advice on shoes because she does not seem to know very much about what is a good shoe. There is an other woman who is part of that channel who is better with her feet. Why did she not take the interview :D
Oh well different levels, different advice. Maybe someone on her level of skill would have more benefit hearing her thoughts instead of emil's one which climb much much harder!
V3/V4 climber isn't going to need the same shoe as a V9 climber. Pretty obvious if you think about it.
@@XibaXela Somewhat disagree tbh. Just because beginners/intermediates won't get all the benefits out of some high end shoes, doesn't mean they should fall for the beginner shoe scam. Beginner shoes are useless and shouldn't even exist. Thick, non sticky rubber, stiff soles. Useless. They're overly stiff and supportive and just lead to beginners deveoping bad habits and sloppy footwork because there's no sensitivity and feedback that punishes them for poor footwork. Beginners should be wearing soft shoes to strengthen their toes and develop better technique because they feel the rock/plastic more. Beginners should wear any soft shoe. Maybe not $180-$200 pairs, but because a lot of soft shoes tend to be somewhat aggressive, beginners definitely shouldn't be put off. Basic unlined slippers like Evolv Addicts, 5.10 moccasyms are super soft and ideal for beginners, but they should also not be put off buying other soft more aggressive shoes like evolv x1s, scarpa SR, scarpa VS-R, la sportiva cobra, la sportiva pythons. Honestly, I wouldn't even say no to a beginner who's considering buying scarpa furias if they can afford to replace them after they blow through that 3/3.5mm rubber in a few months. After a beginner/intermediate develops good footwork technique and strong toes, then they can consider stiffer, aggressive shoes like miuras for example.
@@maidenless2110 You need the same shoes but you can get away with cheaper ones :)