Climbing a 7c on the Orme and comparing the LaSportiva Solutions to Solution Comps
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ส.ค. 2024
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Greetings from the North Cascades of Washington!
Hey! Thanks for watching!
Swear by the comps, there amazing :)
Absolute weapons 💪
What shoes do you use for hard slab climbing?
Hard being relative of course, but currently the previous model of LaSportiva Katana Lace.
Yo man, another great video. I've got a pair of comps i really like them. I do find them slightly softer than id like for outside, im heavy ish for a climber 78kg's.
Most the routes im climbing at the moment are slightly overhanging on pretty small feet, do you think ill feel a noticeable difference between the OG solutions against the comps?(worth buying a pair difference)
Ive tried katanas but since they changed them, there over stiff and lack sensitivity on polished limestone i want something softer but not comp soft (if there's a thing) haha
You'll notice a difference between regular solutions and comps for sure, well worth trying I think!
Damn tyou downsize 3.5 sizes? 47 EU to 43.5? Im 44.5 or 45.5 depending on brans and im 43.5 in Muiras.
Love content
I am in the market for my first aggressive shoe, having bought the new katana lace and realised how great it is to have something that fits well and can edge up slate beautifully.
For boulder duty I have been considering the Skwama vs Solution Comp and even Otaki but struggling to understand the nuances. Any comparisons between solutions/solution comp & the skwamas would be appreciated. What would you pick the skwamas for around N. Wales ?
Personally I'd go for the Skwama.
It goes softer through the whole shoe in my experience making it a weapon for all round bouldering stuff. My Skwamas always come with me bouldering, my Solutions usually don't.
For me the Otaki is a bit stiff for a bouldering shoe, I reckon it's more of a general purpose shoe.
Just got these and I wear a 10.5 us. And been getting 43 in all my shoes which are tight enough at beginning but stretch and feel like sneakers after a ton of climbing.
Just got the comps in a 43 and they’re quite painfully tight so I’m glad I didn’t get a 42.5 to start.
What day you JB? I started climbing in spring and climbing outside as often as I can and been trying some 12’s in the gym which seems reachable if I had better technique.
But should I go down 2-3 shoe sizes to perfect technique? Does the smaller shoe help you when your technique falls short a bit?
And! Do you have any tips for me to jump my sport leading outside to a steady 5.9-5.10?
I top rope a lot of “soft” 10’s and get shut down sometimes and other times breeze rite up with a short fight.
How did you get comfortable with leading outside? Thank you for your time and videos! Really enjoy your content! Hope to climb with you someday when my girlfriend and I come over
Hiya! If you're new to more aggressive shoes then you might find the comps feel less comfortable to start with just by their nature, I'd definitely keep trying to climb in them and see how they go.
The idea behind tight rock shoes is increased feel and the ability to put more power through your toes.
If your shoes are painful though, your technique will suffer, so it is a balance.
My Comps are very tight, but my feet are used to them and I genuinely find them v comfortable!
Outdoor climbing is all about mileage up to a point, climb as many routes as you possibly can. This will improve your technique, route reading, general physical attributes etc, and confidence.
In terms of training specifically to improve your grade, it probably isn't necessary until you're into 7a and above - but we're all different!
Mileage, mileage, mileage!
@@JBMountainSkills wonderful! Thank you JB! I appreciate the feedback! I’m gonna start filming some outings and share with y’all! I’m gonna put the miles on! Thanks again!
how would you compare the skwama's with the sol. comps?
In reality they’re v similar.
I find the Skwamas soften up v slightly more making them better at smearing. The toe shape is different too, less point on the Skwamas.
You say you wouldn't recommend them for slabby stuff, what would you recommend for slabby stuff? (Yes I know go to a shop and try lots on, I'm nearly as big an advocate of that as you are)
Depends what kind of slabs…
Slate edgy slabs I like my Otakis or my Geshidos.
Smeary slabs, love a worn in pair of Skwamas, they soften up a lot, they become super sticky.
@@JBMountainSkills I'm surprised it's something with such an aggressive profile for the smeary stuff, I thought it would be something flatter
Are the Comps any better on slabs/smears compared with the regular Solutions or do you feel it’s just the heel where there is a difference?
I wear the regular Solutions indoors and find them terrible on volumes but great everywhere else. Outdoors I climb mostly trad so don’t wear anything as aggressive.
Would be interested in a comparison between the Solutions and your Skwamas…maybe a Sportiva shoe short video?
I'll probably do a video like that at some point!
In my opinion they're much the same at smearing. It's the heel thats very different, and the middle that is a touch more flexible, the front section feels identical Solution - Solution Comp.
I don't use my Solutions indoors, the Skwamas seem better suited.
No helmet? 😉
I did today ;)