Glad to see you put in new cotter pins. It just irritates me when I see people put $200.00 in new parts and then save 2¢ by reusing the old cotter pin.
I'm hoping some one can answer a question for me. I was replacing my bearing/hub assembly and noticed what looks like a rubber seal on the axle end. Do I need to pull the axle to replace that seal? Thanks.
Just take the sway bar loose and pull the axle out the front. You don't need to take off the brakes or the control arm. Fast and easy BUT, the sway bar links get torn up and need replaced sometimes. Just be careful with them. Or change them. They probably need replaced anyway. lol
Great video, very informative. Quick question. Just installed this on passenger side '99 Lariat and it appears (I'm hoping) that since it's still on blocks that extreme angle of axle (as shown at 12:45 in your vid) causes binding which is what I'm experiencing. Is this normal? Does this go away once blocks are removed and axle becomes in better alignment with hub? Thanks.
Dont use anything but a motorcraft cv axle for a lifted F-150. Cheap cvs will break the front axle tube and bind up. Dont ask me how i know this. The hard way.
Hi please could you help, my 9-5 salloon 40,000 miles 2005 uk,, has the dreaded key problems But not like normall so 3 saab forums say ? Main issue is it wont lock most of the time either key, i found 3 ways were i can reconect the keys to the car without tech2 but i can only seem to get the car to go into program mode but not save mode if you get me. Ie it resyncs them and the key will lock fine. The ignition is not sticking to my full knowledge because inside lighs go off and radio will turn off, i still get sound from the alarm if i get the chance to lock and set alarm. Door switches are working fine, cleaned lock ignition and keys inside good contacts,battery clipps. One thing i do think is strange is that the car can still lock even know one of the doors are not closed? But i thought they shouldent of ? Please any support or advice would be amazing as i am toatly stuck on this, this is my last chance i have. Thank you p.s love all your work keep em comeing.
No need to pull all that just the center axle nut and the ones holding the axle to the diff turn the wheel undo all bolts pull from diff then from hub reverse to install.
Pro tip: loosen the wheel nut before jacking the and removing the tire. A lot easier than trying to stop the wheel studs with a breaker bar
Glad to see you put in new cotter pins. It just irritates me when I see people put $200.00 in new parts and then save 2¢ by reusing the old cotter pin.
New cotter pins is a must!
If you loosen the front torsion bar bolts on both sides you can turn the bar upward and do not need to loosen the ball joint.
I put one in with only pulling sway bar linkage off, the brake caliper and upper control arm is unnessisary
Great video thanks 👍🏻👍🏻
No problem 👍 Thanks for watching!
I'm hoping some one can answer a question for me. I was replacing my bearing/hub assembly and noticed what looks like a rubber seal on the axle end. Do I need to pull the axle to replace that seal? Thanks.
Just take the sway bar loose and pull the axle out the front. You don't need to take off the brakes or the control arm. Fast and easy BUT, the sway bar links get torn up and need replaced sometimes. Just be careful with them. Or change them. They probably need replaced anyway. lol
The brake caliper really dont need to come off does it??
The repair manual says the axle nut is 35mm. U video says 36mm which is it? Or does it depend on if it's factory or not?
Sometimes they switch it mid year too. So some would be 35 and others 36. Thanks for watching!
Awesome 👍 thanks
Thanks for watching!
You could’ve put a screwdriver on the rotor the way you’re doing it you can mess up the threads
dumb question, is the right axle the same as the left or they are different?
That's not a dumb question, on some cars they are different. But on this one they are the same. Thanks for watching!
Great video, very informative. Quick question. Just installed this on passenger side '99 Lariat and it appears (I'm hoping) that since it's still on blocks that extreme angle of axle (as shown at 12:45 in your vid) causes binding which is what I'm experiencing. Is this normal? Does this go away once blocks are removed and axle becomes in better alignment with hub? Thanks.
Dont use anything but a motorcraft cv axle for a lifted F-150. Cheap cvs will break the front axle tube and bind up. Dont ask me how i know this. The hard way.
was wondering why you didn't leave the caliper on the bracket and just remove the 2 18mm bolts and leave it as 1 piece
That makes it really heavy and unwieldy. If it were to fall with all that weight it would damage the line. Thanks for watching!
Hi please could you help, my 9-5 salloon 40,000 miles 2005 uk,, has the dreaded key problems But not like normall so 3 saab forums say ? Main issue is it wont lock most of the time either key, i found 3 ways were i can reconect the keys to the car without tech2 but i can only seem to get the car to go into program mode but not save mode if you get me. Ie it resyncs them and the key will lock fine. The ignition is not sticking to my full knowledge because inside lighs go off and radio will turn off, i still get sound from the alarm if i get the chance to lock and set alarm. Door switches are working fine, cleaned lock ignition and keys inside good contacts,battery clipps. One thing i do think is strange is that the car can still lock even know one of the doors are not closed? But i thought they shouldent of ? Please any support or advice would be amazing as i am toatly stuck on this, this is my last chance i have. Thank you p.s love all your work keep em comeing.
No need to pull all that just the center axle nut and the ones holding the axle to the diff turn the wheel undo all bolts pull from diff then from hub reverse to install.
8:56
10:35