Thank you for the video. Very helpful. Like several others in this thread, I had issues getting mine to seat properly and was unable to get the nut to thread. My secret was after confirming I had the pins lined up, I applied equal pressure around the cylinder to make it finally lodge. You need to put a little extra pressure. After that it was easy to snug up the bolt. Thanks for a great video.
Great little video, clear and simple! Thank you for that! Getting the conductor plate changed out on my 2003 W210 E320 Wagon and i wasn't clear on the adapter removal..
FYI - If any of you have issues getting out the old 13 pin connector, I would assume you might be using the wrong socket to take it off. It’s a 7 mm and mistakenly I tried an eight and it kept turning and I thought it was off when it was really not. Once you take it up with a 7 mm it’s not more than a few turns the plug should just pop right out with not too much effort
Glad I ran across this. I have a 97 e320 with 250,000 miles on it and I recently changed the transmission fluid. I had noticed a little fluid but didn't think much about it but now I have a significant leak coming from the adapter. 10.99 for a Dorman.
Any automatic transmission oil had gone into the TCM module located, in an upright position, behind the carpet for the front firewall?. The transmission oil can damage the computer. Even oil had not gone into the computer you can spray electronic cleaner to clean both sides of the connector to/of the computer. Let it fully dry before reconnecting the adaptor for the TCM. Regards.
thank you for your video, it helped a lot! if someone were to change their house recently, I recommend that they buy the factory Mercedes right away! I tried meylet, metzker, jp group, and in the end the factory one was perfect, the rest was drained the same as the old one. (Hungarian stem) w210 e240
Thanks Matthew. I have the part number at 00:26 second of the video. Only source the genuine MB brand. It is around $15 at Fcpeuro.com or autohausaz.com. And, yes, it comes with all the gaskets you need pre attached.
Nice video, thanks. One question: Should you replace that pinkish-orange gasket on the connector that the wire attaches to? Unless that's just a minor seal to keep outside contaminants from getting in.
I have been trying for 2 days to reconnect my new one. I find the grooves it slides down, but the bolt just will not catch. Spins and spins. Any ideas?
Also, keep in mind there are many little pins that must not be damaged. The connector can only go one way, align the holes with the pins perfectly and then press and seat in all the way. Watch the video again in large screen.
One more thing that may help, insert the connector lightly until it stops and with a cellphone take a photo and make sure you see all the pins, then seat it with confidence.
Might want to add. Sometimes its not enough to just replace the connector. I did that and it was still leaking. In that case its the conductor plate on top of the valve body where this connector threads into. Not super expensive or difficult, but will have to drain the transmission and take the valve body out to replace the plate.
Salam Massod, is it possible to not have front differential on a 2006 S430 4matic (may be built in to the transmission)? I replaced the fluid on the rear differential but for the life of me can't find the front differential. Thanks
Hi Roam, yes, it is best to do it with an empty tray. But to avoid spillage, it is best just to raise the front of the vehicle. As you see in the video, no oil came out.
@@masood-tv Amazing. I have watched 20 videos on this and read numerous posts and this is the first time I've heard I could do this but raising the front of the vehicle! My C240 2004 got stuck in park on my driveway, it would not shift, which at first I thought was the broken shifter piece you see in videos when you are first researching. I did more research, however and determined my shifter didn't have that piece-and that I needed to check the TCM computer in the passenger foot well. I did this and lo and behold, there was a small puddle of transmission fluid under the carpet on the floor board and wet wiring harness. The TCM wiring connectors were wet with transmission oil, as was the wiring harness, but the printed circuit board was dry. How do people clean the wiring harness? I have not seen how to do this. Also, once this is fixed, don't I need to delete the transmission codes? As I understand it, don't I need to do that so it will shift out of park and into drive again? I did a deep dive into the OBD Merc readers and there are knock offs I want to avoid. What do you suggest on the wire cleaning and the codes? Thank you for helping others.
@@sl5311 If you can disconnect at two ends, pull out and clean with ultrasonic cleaner. Otherwise, dishwasher soap :) Some knock offs are every bit as good as the one from MB and thousands cheaper. If you plan to keep your Merc and work on it yourself, I highly recommend it.
Hey there! Glad I came across this today. Does the oil need to be drained to take care of this? I changed my fluid like 2 months ago and it's still leaking so now I want to do the connector. Would like to avoid emptying the oil if I can. Let me know if you can, thanks!
Hi Lawrence, my suggestion is to pair it up with a flush specially if you haven't flushed all of the fluid last time. Some oil (as much as one or two liters) will spill out if the pan is parallel to the ground. But if you lift just the front of the car high enough, you should be ok. Just be prepared to catch some of it and have the replacement adapter ready to plug in minimizing spills. Thank you.
My transmission started leaking oil from that connector. Is it possible that just changing the connector will fix the leak? Or do I have to change the entire plate?
My 2005 sprinter 2500 is throwing P0175 “input speed sensor 1 circuit” .. the transmission is in limp mode not shifting but engine has full power. Would this part be considered a speed sensor?
Hi Jacob, P0175 usually tells of a rich condition... If you have a scanner, scan all 4 wheel sensors and see if any of them is not keeping up with the rest....
@@masood-tv damage is to the valve body, the brass insert the 7mm bolt goes into is part of this very expensive part, and cant be replaced separtely...
Trying to unplug connector but orange tab doesn't want to move. Rather hard to reach. Its in a Jaguar XKR behind cat converter. Tried prying it with big screwdriver. Flexes but doesn't want to move. Was trying to see if its leaking. Decided to wait until i have a new one to try any more force. Sprayed a bit of penetrant on it. Any words of wisdom to share?
Hi Brian, don't be afraid to apply more leverage with a pry bar...just not to the point of breaking it. Be sure you are turning it left from the perspective of looking at the back of the orange connector.
@@masood-tv Well I got it to turn. I came at it from the rear. Worked a bit better that way. To get it to turn far enough did break it. The part that turns that is. Got it out rather easily. Getting the new one in was a bit tight. But figure that means it sealed. Lubed orings with atf. 7mm socket with extension on the bolt. Used pry bar to gently push on extension as I turned the bolt. Raised the front of vehicle as you said. I lost almost exactly half a quart . The part I got was a genuine MB. It had 2 orings on it. The connector that plugs into it also has an oring on it. I did not get that oring. Should it be replaced also? Not sure if the leak is fixed yet. I'm still waiting on my dipstick to verify the correct level of fluid.
@briankennedy5578 the main gaskets are the ones in the MB part. That should fix your leak for sure. The leak is caused by either after market parts or aging gaskets.
I replaced my conductor plate and the connector assembly about 18,000 mi ago and I'm having to replace the connector assembly again which I did but it was flooded the next day so now the oil has gotten all the way through the wiring harness to the computer but I have a 99 SL500 and it is mounted upside down luckily so the oil just puddled below instead of filling up the computer. What do you suggest I do I really don't want to use the original wiring harness I would prefer to replace the transmission wiring harness but not sure exactly what that involves. Please give me any suggestions that you might have with all of your experience.
Hi Bill, be sure to replace it with an MB connector which has two thicker gaskets, be sure that the 2 old gaskets are out, and that the new connector is properly seated. That should prevent oil leaks to the harness.
@@masood-tv The oil has already traveled through the harness to the computer but puddled below the computer because it is mounted "upside down" so hopefully my computer is still good. I put on the new connector CORRECTLY seated and the next day after replacing two sensors I drove it and it went back into limp mode. SO I removed the new connector and it was flooded again. That's when I followed the harness back to the computer and found the puddle of fluid. ARGHHHH
@@BoyishDriver as I mentioned because my computer is upside down it was saved and has no damage. After conferring with a couple Mercedes experts I was told replacing the wiring harness is unnecessary. The conductor plate was replaced along with the connector plug and everything has been working perfect ever since. I was really angry at my previous mechanic for installing an aftermarket conductor plate because that's the only reason I'm having to do this twice. Believe it or not replacing the conductor plate and connector plug should be replaced about every 30,000 Miles as a maintenance item as this is a known issue.
Hello I have a question I have a 2003 Mercedes Benz E320 does this control the shifting of the gears because my transmission only shift to first and second my master cylinder is bad I'm replacing that does the connector have anything to do with that
Hello I want to ask you about a problem in cls 2007 350 … i had a bad TCM not transferring signal … soo as diagnoses workshop changed .. and now after a month am back with the same problem … whem i start the car no transmission letters on dashboard …. Sometimes it take about 12 minutes then it shows letter i turn off and on again and the transmission work fine …. Could it be this connector ? Or what could it be
Would a faulty NAG1 transmission connector cause my car to lose all acceleration at random times while driving until I either let off the gas for a secound or I down shift a gear then press back on the gas then it drive all good again?
Yes. Even better if you raise the front wheels. Enough to do it comfortably. Don't raise the rear of the car, fluid may gush out if the car is leveled to the ground.
I think my daughters car has this issue and a shop was quoting me $750 to repair. I was expecting something a lot more complicated but I think it's easy enough for me to tackle.
Just changed the adapter plug on 05 C240. Still shifting hard and trans going into limp mod any suggestions. Car has 134k miles. Hasn't been driven in 3 years
I'm attempting this right now and your video was super helpful... only problem, I cannot pull out the old 13 pin connector plug it seems to be stuck??? I unscrewed the 7mm screw inside the connector and from what I can "feel" it seems the screw is out but the connector plug wont come out?? Any suggestions thanks???
Hi Jvakos, as long as the screw is undone, you will not hurt anything by forcing it out. Pry it out. Find leverage around it and pry it out decisively. Only old rubber gaskets are keeping it stuck inside.
another fyi, im doing this in my 2000 w210 and if you think its in and you see the connectors your only have way there it took me 20 minutes to figure out that it should seat in there and be tight without the bolt, just use pressure and push and it should click in 👍🏻
@@masood-tv oh you responded, so actually this made my case worse 😂 i put the new one in checked to see if it was in all the way and somehow a pin broke off and now my car will not shift out of second gear and its really tuff bc i need almost everyday, any advice? thanks
@@noahmcc1 you can do one of two things. Take out the plate and straighten the pin if not beyond repair, or replace the conductor plate. It costs around $190.
@Noah Mc measure exactly what comes out and replace by same amount. Have a large catch pan underneath as you remove Trans pan and then the plate. Good time to replace your filter and pan gasket too.
Hi Luke, any number of factors can cause slipping...start with checking the transmission fluid level and quality. If low and bad, replace fluid and filter.
@@masood-tv Will do. Do I have to jack up all 4 corners of the car to do a trans fluid change? Not sure I have the tools to do it myself right now. Looking for a home mechanic nearby who can assist
@@masood-tv update: did some research. Looks like its the TCC solenoid. Going to do full transmission service and replace conductor plate and TCC solenoid along with the plug adapter.
GREAT TUTORIAL! I CHANGED MINE AND THEN CLEARED THE CODE WITH MY CHEAPER SCANNER AND IT WAS STILL IN LIMP MODE. TOOK IT TO MERCEDES AND THEY CHECKED THE CONNECTOR AND CLEANED IT BETTER THEN I DID I GUESS AND THEY DELETED THE CODE WITH THEIR SCANNER AND THE CAR RAN GREAT FOR THE DAY BUT NOW ITS BACK IN LIMP MODE WITH THE SAME CODE. I CHECKED THE CONNECTOR TO SEE IF MAYBE IT WAS LEAKING AGAIN BUT IT WASNT. ANY INFO ON WHAT MY NEXT STEP SHOULD BE? I AM STUMPED!
Hi, I could tell you to replace the conductor plate, yet the problem may lie elsewhere. Since you paid the dealer and the problem returned, you may wish to ask them for a diagnosis. However, should you decide to replace the conductor plate, it is not too expensive and it can be a DIY job. Depending on the age of your transmission and how much longer you are willing to keep the car, even if it doesn't fix the issue, it will help your transmission work a lot better.
@@masood-tv Yah im hoping its not the conductor plate. It would be cooler if it was the tcm because I found a used one online with the same part number for under 200bux. I originally asked mercedes for a diagnostic because i did all the easy fixes myself with no luck and they didnt do one I guess because they couldnt tell me the exact issue. They charged me $310cdn for a 2 hour diagnostic though. I kind of feel like they should have bin able to pin point the problem in 2 hours. Its a 2002 mercedes c240 with 216k km"s on it and the car runs great otherwise. Its a pepsi blue type color with light grey almost white interior on 18 inch black low pro wheels. I love the car so i probably would do the conductor plate BuT ONLY if I know its gonna fix it. Am I crazy to think a shop is gonna give me an exact answer on why my car doesnt like the p0702 code or is it just a guessing game for some things. Its weird that after I got it back the first time that it ran perfect for the day and then the next morning on first start it went back to limp mode. Another weird thing is mercedes didnt even check my tranny fluid lol. Anyways thanx for your response and i will probly give an update soon.
@@clicksbyklauss , from your description, it sounds like you have a great looking car. Good luck to you. Yes, please come back and update us when it is fixed, so we can learn from your experience.
Hello, very good video, maybe you can help me, I have a C180 (W203) model 2006, 1.8L engine, everything went well until today, the shifts were made without problems, everything worked perfectly smoothly, but today I noticed that I was going at 50km/h and the revolutions was to high, when I note that the gearbox wasn't shifting, then I get parked and switched to neutral, and then went to parking position, but it couldn't, so I switched it back to Drive and the car made a rude shift, I tried to change manually (+ -) but It didn't do anything either, so I turned off the car, I wait a minute, I put it in the parking position and tried again, there everything worked perfectly but when I got home and tried to park in my spot, I tried to get reverse and the shift cannot be done, it only let me get neutral position, then once again I turned off the car, put it in the parking position and turned it on, everything worked fine there, what could it be? Thank you very much...
Hi Bravo, it is hard to tell without looking at the car. Do you have access to a good scanner? If not, you may want to have someone who does scan the transmission module for past and current faults first.
@Masood well, I'll take the car to the shop on Monday, this is my first Mercedes and I don't want go there with any possible reason of this behavior... Once with a Ford Explorer in a similar issue on dealer recommends to me a general maintenance of the transmission (complete disarm) when I asked for a second opinion, with just a connector clean was completely solved... I'll let you know when the car get scanned, thank you very much.
@@thebalkanboy2252 the whole problem was in the electronic card in the shifter, I made the repair by myself just with one heat gun, and resoldering with Flux, I'm really sorry don't record the process but I completely forgot this post :( but the good news is that I found one video explaining this process, I will look for it and share it as an answer here...
Hello brother, I have a 1996 Mercedes E280, the air conditioner works sometimes and sometimes it does not work, and if it works for a period of five minutes, then it crashes and when I close it and leave it for a period of five minutes it does work and after a period it breaks Can I find you a solution
Hi bro, it is hard to tell without running a diagnosis....it could be a bad sensor, it could be low on freon, it could be something else that is defective. ..
@@alextuomonen3830 you might be ok as long as the socket has gone to the very end. You should be able to see the little pins sticking out. If yes, just put in the plug and turn it to lock as i show in the video for a tight fit. Turn the engine on and shift the gear a few times to test. If it doesnt make a good electric connection, you will find out right away. In that case, it will need some precise surgery to remove the screw. Perhaps welding a small nut at the breakage point by an expert welder...
Howdy, Noah. As I show in video, please take a cellphone video or photo to ensure the pins are all aligned with the holes in the connector and that the old gaskets are all removed. Then you can press it in with confidence.
@@masood-tv It is 2.5nm for the weird screw in the adapter. I just replaced mine and the included instructions said this value. It does not look like a screw at all. You don't want to strip this or you will be replacing the conductor plate. All of the rest of the valve body and pan bolts the proper torque is 8nm. Not sure I know were to get a wrench that will torque this lightly. I think as long as the screw is snug that would be good enough.
@@scotttaylor8811 You are right, Scott. Not everyone has access to a torque wrench like that. I have always hand tightened them. It may help to do it with just a couple fingers of the weaker hand...
Hi Zim, did you use a 7mm socket? Put a cellphone to it and take some snapshots to see if it is unscrewed. It will not come out completely. Stays in the plug. Look at new one for comparison..
@@masood-tv yes I'm using 7mm socket it doesn't matter how much I turn the screw it still feels tight and not loosened I'm afraid if I attempt to pry it out with too much force i may break something my car is 2006 Chrysler 300c. It feels tight when I put my fingers in to feel the screw.
@Zim I don't want to advise that you remove it if you don't feel comfortable. If it is not oily, leave it alone, or have a professional do it. Ordinarily, it is easy to turn.
Hi Obaidullah, akhi. That is why I have said before to have only the front of the car raised to avoid spills. Yours may have been overfilled before. But some may spill out, and that is normal.
Thank you for the video. Very helpful. Like several others in this thread, I had issues getting mine to seat properly and was unable to get the nut to thread. My secret was after confirming I had the pins lined up, I applied equal pressure around the cylinder to make it finally lodge. You need to put a little extra pressure. After that it was easy to snug up the bolt. Thanks for a great video.
Thank you.
Great little video, clear and simple!
Thank you for that!
Getting the conductor plate changed out on my 2003 W210 E320 Wagon and i wasn't clear on the adapter removal..
You're welcome, Pete.
A
FYI - If any of you have issues getting out the old 13 pin connector, I would assume you might be using the wrong socket to take it off. It’s a 7 mm and mistakenly I tried an eight and it kept turning and I thought it was off when it was really not. Once you take it up with a 7 mm it’s not more than a few turns the plug should just pop right out with not too much effort
I use a 7mm and it still won't loosen just spins and spins now I'm afraid I may break it.
Glad I ran across this. I have a 97 e320 with 250,000 miles on it and I recently changed the transmission fluid. I had noticed a little fluid but didn't think much about it but now I have a significant leak coming from the adapter. 10.99 for a Dorman.
Hi M. Bobroff, glad to have you in the channel. Thx.
Hi Alexander, I combined the connector replacement with the transmission fluid change, so I did replace the pan gasket, filter, and oil.
What is leaking? I don't think you need to replace the conductor plate at only 29,000 miles.
Fuuuck Dorman, gone through 4 of these Dorman bushings
Any automatic transmission oil had gone into the TCM module located, in an upright position, behind the carpet for the front firewall?. The transmission oil can damage the computer. Even oil had not gone into the computer you can spray electronic cleaner to clean both sides of the connector to/of the computer. Let it fully dry before reconnecting the adaptor for the TCM. Regards.
thank you for your video, it helped a lot! if someone were to change their house recently, I recommend that they buy the factory Mercedes right away! I tried meylet, metzker, jp group, and in the end the factory one was perfect, the rest was drained the same as the old one. (Hungarian stem) w210 e240
@Bazsaboss thanks. Yes, absolutely. I, too, recommend only the MB brand for this part.
Does the part that is attatched to the harness require cleaning out with contact cleaner for example? Regards.
Hi Mike, you can do that for sure...
Hey, great video, do you have a link to where you purchased the adapter? And does it come with the two gaskets? Thanks!
Thanks Matthew. I have the part number at 00:26 second of the video. Only source the genuine MB brand. It is around $15 at Fcpeuro.com or autohausaz.com. And, yes, it comes with all the gaskets you need pre attached.
Nice video, thanks. One question: Should you replace that pinkish-orange gasket on the connector that the wire attaches to? Unless that's just a minor seal to keep outside contaminants from getting in.
Hi Dan, thx. Not really.
I have been trying for 2 days to reconnect my new one. I find the grooves it slides down, but the bolt just will not catch. Spins and spins. Any ideas?
Hi Michael, yes, it is not seated all the way. Play with the old one as the gaskets are more worn out. Also, I hope you purchased a genuine MB part.
Also, keep in mind there are many little pins that must not be damaged. The connector can only go one way, align the holes with the pins perfectly and then press and seat in all the way. Watch the video again in large screen.
One more thing that may help, insert the connector lightly until it stops and with a cellphone take a photo and make sure you see all the pins, then seat it with confidence.
Did u ever find out what to do I’m having the same problem
I'm having the same problem on w203 I bought the connector yesterday goin to try it out
What issues are you having?
Might want to add. Sometimes its not enough to just replace the connector. I did that and it was still leaking. In that case its the conductor plate on top of the valve body where this connector threads into. Not super expensive or difficult, but will have to drain the transmission and take the valve body out to replace the plate.
Salam Massod, is it possible to not have front differential on a 2006 S430 4matic (may be built in to the transmission)? I replaced the fluid on the rear differential but for the life of me can't find the front differential. Thanks
Shouldn't a ton of oil pour out of this?I did mine and lost a lot of transmission fluid,did you change it with the pan empty?
Hi Roam, yes, it is best to do it with an empty tray. But to avoid spillage, it is best just to raise the front of the vehicle.
As you see in the video, no oil came out.
@@masood-tv Amazing. I have watched 20 videos on this and read numerous posts and this is the first time I've heard I could do this but raising the front of the vehicle! My C240 2004 got stuck in park on my driveway, it would not shift, which at first I thought was the broken shifter piece you see in videos when you are first researching. I did more research, however and determined my shifter didn't have that piece-and that I needed to check the TCM computer in the passenger foot well. I did this and lo and behold, there was a small puddle of transmission fluid under the carpet on the floor board and wet wiring harness. The TCM wiring connectors were wet with transmission oil, as was the wiring harness, but the printed circuit board was dry. How do people clean the wiring harness? I have not seen how to do this. Also, once this is fixed, don't I need to delete the transmission codes? As I understand it, don't I need to do that so it will shift out of park and into drive again? I did a deep dive into the OBD Merc readers and there are knock offs I want to avoid. What do you suggest on the wire cleaning and the codes? Thank you for helping others.
@@sl5311 If you can disconnect at two ends, pull out and clean with ultrasonic cleaner. Otherwise, dishwasher soap :)
Some knock offs are every bit as good as the one from MB and thousands cheaper. If you plan to keep your Merc and work on it yourself, I highly recommend it.
Hey there! Glad I came across this today. Does the oil need to be drained to take care of this? I changed my fluid like 2 months ago and it's still leaking so now I want to do the connector. Would like to avoid emptying the oil if I can. Let me know if you can, thanks!
Hi Viron, yes, you can replace the connector any time.
@@masood-tv is that yes, you need to drain the oil, or yes you can do it anytime without draining the transmission? Cheers for the video btw 👍
Hi Lawrence, my suggestion is to pair it up with a flush specially if you haven't flushed all of the fluid last time. Some oil (as much as one or two liters) will spill out if the pan is parallel to the ground. But if you lift just the front of the car high enough, you should be ok. Just be prepared to catch some of it and have the replacement adapter ready to plug in minimizing spills. Thank you.
@@lawrencebroad6673 no fluid drain needed
@@drewinhou This dude is the hero this comment section needed.
My transmission started leaking oil from that connector. Is it possible that just changing the connector will fix the leak? Or do I have to change the entire plate?
Hi Rodrigo, you can change the connector first and see. It is a cheap part. Raise just the front of the car to avoid spills.
@@masood-tv great. Thank you.
@@masood-tv When you pull the old connector out, will all the oil come out of the gearbox?
No. Raise the car just on the front wheels.
My 2005 sprinter 2500 is throwing P0175 “input speed sensor 1 circuit” .. the transmission is in limp mode not shifting but engine has full power. Would this part be considered a speed sensor?
Hi Jacob, P0175 usually tells of a rich condition... If you have a scanner, scan all 4 wheel sensors and see if any of them is not keeping up with the rest....
I just did this and the threaded part snapped off & came out with the bolt
Hopefully the seals are tight enough & will hold it in place
No leaks yet👍
Sorry that happened to you, Dan. If the damage is to the connector, you may want to replace it.
@@masood-tv damage is to the valve body, the brass insert the 7mm bolt goes into is part of this very expensive part, and cant be replaced separtely...
@jovangrbic97 your damage is to the conductor plate not the valve body
Hello I have a fault code and it says rpm sensor in the transmission could this replace work or do I need to change the conductor plate?
@yigitje1613 Hi, no, this won't do it.
Trying to unplug connector but orange tab doesn't want to move. Rather hard to reach. Its in a Jaguar XKR behind cat converter. Tried prying it with big screwdriver. Flexes but doesn't want to move. Was trying to see if its leaking. Decided to wait until i have a new one to try any more force. Sprayed a bit of penetrant on it. Any words of wisdom to share?
Hi Brian, don't be afraid to apply more leverage with a pry bar...just not to the point of breaking it. Be sure you are turning it left from the perspective of looking at the back of the orange connector.
@@masood-tv Well I got it to turn. I came at it from the rear. Worked a bit better that way. To get it to turn far enough did break it. The part that turns that is. Got it out rather easily. Getting the new one in was a bit tight. But figure that means it sealed. Lubed orings with atf. 7mm socket with extension on the bolt. Used pry bar to gently push on extension as I turned the bolt. Raised the front of vehicle as you said. I lost almost exactly half a quart . The part I got was a genuine MB. It had 2 orings on it. The connector that plugs into it also has an oring on it. I did not get that oring. Should it be replaced also? Not sure if the leak is fixed yet. I'm still waiting on my dipstick to verify the correct level of fluid.
@briankennedy5578 the main gaskets are the ones in the MB part. That should fix your leak for sure. The leak is caused by either after market parts or aging gaskets.
Thank you awesome video so needed this
I am glad. Thanks for the feedback.
Mr. Masood, my 1998 e320 does not shift from 2 to 3 :( could this be the cause or I need to change the whole valve body connector?
Hard to tell without proper diagnosis, connector may not fix it....but conductor plate or valve body may. Good luck.
How much it cost in South Africa where can I buy it
@corneliuskotze-w5u I have no idea. Hopefully, someone from SA can chip in.
@masood-tv thank you. It game out with nut how can I fix it thanks
The nut is damage
@corneliuskotze-w5u please elaborate. I am not understanding the question exactly.
If I buy a new nut will it work or not
Hi can i change the plug without having to drain the gearbox oil
Thanks
Hi, sure. Just raise the front wheels to avoid any spillage.
I replaced my conductor plate and the connector assembly about 18,000 mi ago and I'm having to replace the connector assembly again which I did but it was flooded the next day so now the oil has gotten all the way through the wiring harness to the computer but I have a 99 SL500 and it is mounted upside down luckily so the oil just puddled below instead of filling up the computer. What do you suggest I do I really don't want to use the original wiring harness I would prefer to replace the transmission wiring harness but not sure exactly what that involves. Please give me any suggestions that you might have with all of your experience.
Hi Bill, be sure to replace it with an MB connector which has two thicker gaskets, be sure that the 2 old gaskets are out, and that the new connector is properly seated. That should prevent oil leaks to the harness.
@@masood-tv The oil has already traveled through the harness to the computer but puddled below the computer because it is mounted "upside down" so hopefully my computer is still good. I put on the new connector CORRECTLY seated and the next day after replacing two sensors I drove it and it went back into limp mode. SO I removed the new connector and it was flooded again. That's when I followed the harness back to the computer and found the puddle of fluid. ARGHHHH
@@billclark8241 any result for you on this issue?
@@BoyishDriver as I mentioned because my computer is upside down it was saved and has no damage. After conferring with a couple Mercedes experts I was told replacing the wiring harness is unnecessary. The conductor plate was replaced along with the connector plug and everything has been working perfect ever since. I was really angry at my previous mechanic for installing an aftermarket conductor plate because that's the only reason I'm having to do this twice. Believe it or not replacing the conductor plate and connector plug should be replaced about every 30,000 Miles as a maintenance item as this is a known issue.
Hello I have a question I have a 2003 Mercedes Benz E320 does this control the shifting of the gears because my transmission only shift to first and second my master cylinder is bad I'm replacing that does the connector have anything to do with that
The answer is no. However, that is the connection point from the computer to the transmission. So, there is a remote possibility.
I have a 2006 S500 with the 722.6. Would you know if I replace the transmission connector do I need to reprogram the car?
Hi Andrew, no you won't have to.
Thank you sir. I appreciate it.
Hello
I want to ask you about a problem in cls 2007 350 … i had a bad TCM not transferring signal … soo as diagnoses workshop changed .. and now after a month am back with the same problem … whem i start the car no transmission letters on dashboard …. Sometimes it take about 12 minutes then it shows letter i turn off and on again and the transmission work fine …. Could it be this connector ? Or what could it be
Hi Qais, it could. The TCM talks to the transmission via a cable connected to this. If the gaskets are breached due to age, oil can travel to the TCM.
Thank you for your fast reply ...
But does this apply to the 722.9 transmission? The 7G
@@qaisabdullah9507 I think the oil leak issue was resolved with the 722.9 transmission.
The problem is in the transmission shifter module !
Would a faulty NAG1 transmission connector cause my car to lose all acceleration at random times while driving until I either let off the gas for a secound or I down shift a gear then press back on the gas then it drive all good again?
Hi Guy, it absolutely can. It is what connects the Trans brain to the Trans body.
Yeah this happened to me it was because it was shorting the connector with oil or water getting into the plug
Would the rise from vehicle ramps be high enough to do this?
Yes. Even better if you raise the front wheels. Enough to do it comfortably. Don't raise the rear of the car, fluid may gush out if the car is leveled to the ground.
I think my daughters car has this issue and a shop was quoting me $750 to repair. I was expecting something a lot more complicated but I think it's easy enough for me to tackle.
Good luck. Let me know if you have any questions.
Great video. Thank you.
Thx.
Do you have to drain the fluid to change this connector?
Hi Brett. No, but have a quart of fluid ready in case some spills out.
What’s another name for this part I’m trying to look it up to but a new one
Hi Tylan, watch the video starting at 00:25 seconds. I provide the part number.
very educative. Thank you regards
Thank you.
Just changed the adapter plug on 05 C240. Still shifting hard and trans going into limp mod any suggestions. Car has 134k miles. Hasn't been driven in 3 years
Hi, the best option may be to get a diagnosis done. Otherwise, you could keep replacing parts to no avail, Cynthia.
Conductor plate is probably gone. Get diagnosed
I'm attempting this right now and your video was super helpful... only problem, I cannot pull out the old 13 pin connector plug it seems to be stuck??? I unscrewed the 7mm screw inside the connector and from what I can "feel" it seems the screw is out but the connector plug wont come out?? Any suggestions thanks???
Hi Jvakos, as long as the screw is undone, you will not hurt anything by forcing it out. Pry it out. Find leverage around it and pry it out decisively. Only old rubber gaskets are keeping it stuck inside.
@@masood-tv will give that a shot thanks Masood. I suspect maybe the screw isnt completely loose so will double check that.
Did u fix it? Get it to work
Great Great video and description!!!
Thanks very much.
what if your leak is in the connector part of the harness???
I am not sure if I understand the question exactly. Would you kindly elaborate please.
another fyi, im doing this in my 2000 w210 and if you think its in and you see the connectors your only have way there it took me 20 minutes to figure out that it should seat in there and be tight without the bolt, just use pressure and push and it should click in 👍🏻
Good point, Noah MC. Thanks.
@@masood-tv oh you responded, so actually this made my case worse 😂 i put the new one in checked to see if it was in all the way and somehow a pin broke off and now my car will not shift out of second gear and its really tuff bc i need almost everyday, any advice? thanks
@@noahmcc1 you can do one of two things. Take out the plate and straighten the pin if not beyond repair, or replace the conductor plate. It costs around $190.
@@masood-tv word would i have to do a whole transmission fluid change if i took off the plate?
@Noah Mc measure exactly what comes out and replace by same amount. Have a large catch pan underneath as you remove Trans pan and then the plate. Good time to replace your filter and pan gasket too.
Torque setting 7 mm screw is 2.5 Nm.
Thanks!
bought a 2004 e320 used. Car slips in 2nd gear under light acceleration only before it is at operating temperature. What could cause this?
Hi Luke, any number of factors can cause slipping...start with checking the transmission fluid level and quality. If low and bad, replace fluid and filter.
@@masood-tv Will do. Do I have to jack up all 4 corners of the car to do a trans fluid change? Not sure I have the tools to do it myself right now. Looking for a home mechanic nearby who can assist
@@lukerobertswr5189 no, just the front wheels.
@@masood-tv update: did some research. Looks like its the TCC solenoid. Going to do full transmission service and replace conductor plate and TCC solenoid along with the plug adapter.
@@lukerobertswr5189 thanks for the update. Was there something specific that led you to that conclusion?
GREAT TUTORIAL! I CHANGED MINE AND THEN CLEARED THE CODE WITH MY CHEAPER SCANNER AND IT WAS STILL IN LIMP MODE. TOOK IT TO MERCEDES AND THEY CHECKED THE CONNECTOR AND CLEANED IT BETTER THEN I DID I GUESS AND THEY DELETED THE CODE WITH THEIR SCANNER AND THE CAR RAN GREAT FOR THE DAY BUT NOW ITS BACK IN LIMP MODE WITH THE SAME CODE. I CHECKED THE CONNECTOR TO SEE IF MAYBE IT WAS LEAKING AGAIN BUT IT WASNT. ANY INFO ON WHAT MY NEXT STEP SHOULD BE? I AM STUMPED!
Hi, I could tell you to replace the conductor plate, yet the problem may lie elsewhere. Since you paid the dealer and the problem returned, you may wish to ask them for a diagnosis. However, should you decide to replace the conductor plate, it is not too expensive and it can be a DIY job. Depending on the age of your transmission and how much longer you are willing to keep the car, even if it doesn't fix the issue, it will help your transmission work a lot better.
@@masood-tv Yah im hoping its not the conductor plate. It would be cooler if it was the tcm because I found a used one online with the same part number for under 200bux. I originally asked mercedes for a diagnostic because i did all the easy fixes myself with no luck and they didnt do one I guess because they couldnt tell me the exact issue. They charged me $310cdn for a 2 hour diagnostic though. I kind of feel like they should have bin able to pin point the problem in 2 hours. Its a 2002 mercedes c240 with 216k km"s on it and the car runs great otherwise. Its a pepsi blue type color with light grey almost white interior on 18 inch black low pro wheels. I love the car so i probably would do the conductor plate BuT ONLY if I know its gonna fix it. Am I crazy to think a shop is gonna give me an exact answer on why my car doesnt like the p0702 code or is it just a guessing game for some things. Its weird that after I got it back the first time that it ran perfect for the day and then the next morning on first start it went back to limp mode. Another weird thing is mercedes didnt even check my tranny fluid lol. Anyways thanx for your response and i will probly give an update soon.
@@clicksbyklauss , from your description, it sounds like you have a great looking car. Good luck to you. Yes, please come back and update us when it is fixed, so we can learn from your experience.
My tab is stuck and I can’t slide it down any tips?
Hi Raxzu, if you are talking about the yellow tab, just force it down. Use leverage (pry bar) if you cannot by hand.
Where is this at on a 2009 Mercedes c300
Hi Cinnamon - if it is equipped with a 722.6 transmission, it should be in the same exact spot.
Should i drain the ATF before this?
Hi Noname, no, you don't have to.
1 of my 13 pins broke off..is there a way do fix this?
Hi, yes. You can buy a new or used valve body/cover...
@@masood-tv Or just the conductor plate.
Yes, exactly Scott - it is also called Valve Body Electrical Plate or Cover. Thanks.
Hello, very good video, maybe you can help me, I have a C180 (W203) model 2006, 1.8L engine, everything went well until today, the shifts were made without problems, everything worked perfectly smoothly, but today I noticed that I was going at 50km/h and the revolutions was to high, when I note that the gearbox wasn't shifting, then I get parked and switched to neutral, and then went to parking position, but it couldn't, so I switched it back to Drive and the car made a rude shift, I tried to change manually (+ -) but It didn't do anything either, so I turned off the car, I wait a minute, I put it in the parking position and tried again, there everything worked perfectly but when I got home and tried to park in my spot, I tried to get reverse and the shift cannot be done, it only let me get neutral position, then once again I turned off the car, put it in the parking position and turned it on, everything worked fine there, what could it be? Thank you very much...
Hi Bravo, it is hard to tell without looking at the car. Do you have access to a good scanner? If not, you may want to have someone who does scan the transmission module for past and current faults first.
@Masood well, I'll take the car to the shop on Monday, this is my first Mercedes and I don't want go there with any possible reason of this behavior... Once with a Ford Explorer in a similar issue on dealer recommends to me a general maintenance of the transmission (complete disarm) when I asked for a second opinion, with just a connector clean was completely solved... I'll let you know when the car get scanned, thank you very much.
@@bravomahecha5115 Yes, please keep us updated.
@@bravomahecha5115so what was the problem?
@@thebalkanboy2252 the whole problem was in the electronic card in the shifter, I made the repair by myself just with one heat gun, and resoldering with Flux, I'm really sorry don't record the process but I completely forgot this post :( but the good news is that I found one video explaining this process, I will look for it and share it as an answer here...
Thanks for the video
Thank you.
Need to drain transmission fluid?
Hello Murat, it is best to couple this job with a transmission fluid change, but you dont have to...
@@masood-tv my fluid is in Good condition.but done pil in plug.İ cleaned it with carb.cleaner.because of this i wanna change only plug.
@@muratkaynar802 sure, you are doing the right thing...
@@masood-tv thanks
@@muratkaynar802 you are very welcome.
Hello brother, I have a 1996 Mercedes E280, the air conditioner works sometimes and sometimes it does not work, and if it works for a period of five minutes, then it crashes and when I close it and leave it for a period of five minutes it does work and after a period it breaks Can I find you a solution
Hi bro, it is hard to tell without running a diagnosis....it could be a bad sensor, it could be low on freon, it could be something else that is defective. ..
How many miles? Maybe the electromagnetic ac clutch's air gap is finally too wide at certain hot temperatures and needs to be shimed or replaced?
Bolt snapped. What do?
Sorry to hear that, alex. Did it snap tightening a new adapter or while loosening the old one?
@@masood-tv it happened tightening the new on in. Bit unfortunate doing it in the snow in the cold haha
@@alextuomonen3830 you might be ok as long as the socket has gone to the very end. You should be able to see the little pins sticking out. If yes, just put in the plug and turn it to lock as i show in the video for a tight fit. Turn the engine on and shift the gear a few times to test. If it doesnt make a good electric connection, you will find out right away. In that case, it will need some precise surgery to remove the screw. Perhaps welding a small nut at the breakage point by an expert welder...
@@masood-tv yo boss im sitting here tightening it and its not going anywhere any tips?
Howdy, Noah. As I show in video, please take a cellphone video or photo to ensure the pins are all aligned with the holes in the connector and that the old gaskets are all removed. Then you can press it in with confidence.
I am getting error p2502
I think it's around 8nm for the torque requirement
Thank you.
@@masood-tv It is 2.5nm for the weird screw in the adapter. I just replaced mine and the included instructions said this value. It does not look like a screw at all. You don't want to strip this or you will be replacing the conductor plate. All of the rest of the valve body and pan bolts the proper torque is 8nm. Not sure I know were to get a wrench that will torque this lightly. I think as long as the screw is snug that would be good enough.
@@scotttaylor8811 You are right, Scott. Not everyone has access to a torque wrench like that. I have always hand tightened them. It may help to do it with just a couple fingers of the weaker hand...
2.5 NM
Hreat video
Thanks, Alexandraava.
What's the torque value?
2.5NM.
Quiero ver la Lucaneta contra la Gameroneta !!
Toxi Cuando Juegan Millos America??
Hi I've been trying to unscrew mine but the screw feels tight no matter how much I undo it, I also try to pry it out but it won't come out. Any ideas?
Hi Zim, did you use a 7mm socket? Put a cellphone to it and take some snapshots to see if it is unscrewed. It will not come out completely. Stays in the plug. Look at new one for comparison..
@@masood-tv yes I'm using 7mm socket it doesn't matter how much I turn the screw it still feels tight and not loosened I'm afraid if I attempt to pry it out with too much force i may break something my car is 2006 Chrysler 300c. It feels tight when I put my fingers in to feel the screw.
@Zim I don't want to advise that you remove it if you don't feel comfortable. If it is not oily, leave it alone, or have a professional do it. Ordinarily, it is easy to turn.
@@masood-tv I'll have to bring it to a mechanic then because it does leak oil
Mine had trans fluid come gushing out when i removed the housing. Is it normal?
Hi Obaidullah, akhi. That is why I have said before to have only the front of the car raised to avoid spills. Yours may have been overfilled before. But some may spill out, and that is normal.
@@masood-tv jazkalah. Ramzan Kareem!
Wa iyaak.