Always test the method on a small area that is not easily visible to see how it works for you. Go slow and be cautious. Let me and our viewers know what work best for you through more comments on this or other videos. Thanks and have fun, Tony
The techniques vary on how well they work. Greater care is needed on classic and vintage bikes then the one I was working on. Try very small areas that would not be easily seen first. Use of the aluminum foil with WD40 can remove clear coat and paint unless you use a very light hand. As you can see from this video, I needed to repaint some areas. The #0000 steel wool worked great on the handlebars and crank which were not painted. Good luck and let me know if you ever post your restorations on TH-cam. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed Yes I tried in on the chainstays first and found that it dulls the paint around the area a bit, so I think I'll try polishing it after the rust removal
@@hananas2 The dull finish probably indicates the need for a "clear coat" spay. I use Montana Varnish (from Amazon) since it does not yellow (don't go after the cheap stuff from Warlmart or your local store). It come in gloss, semi gloss and matte depending on the finish on the rest of the bike. See: www.amazon.com/s?k=montana+spray+varnish&crid=2OGHPSAUMEHS2&sprefix=montana+spray+v%2Caps%2C162&ref=nb_sb_ss_i_1_15 Make sure to use several very light coats until you get the appearance your looking for. Regards, Tony
hi do you know how to remove black stain (oil/grease) on bike frame? i removed the old paint by using paint remover, but theres black stain that still there. help me
I'm surprised that the paint thinner did not remove the grease (if it is truly grease). What you may be seeing is residual paint after it has reacted with the paint thinner. Paint thinner may not be good enough to remove all the paint and you may have to go with something stronger. Here are several videos to consider: th-cam.com/video/frx8ncTZOS8/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=GMBNTech and th-cam.com/video/7fo3vmFDSbI/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=63fixed and th-cam.com/video/LEGAb9Fu2Zk/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=SickBiker If what you're seeing is rust, try Evapo-rust and/or fine #000 steel wool.
Spaying the area with WD-40 and then using tin foil takes off superficial rust and acts like a rubbing compound to move the surrounding paint over the area. For deep rust, I use either #001 teel wool (sometimes even #002 grade). When using steel wool, it removes rust and paint down to the metal and requires touch up painting. On chrome, I use grade #000 to remove superficial oxidation. For some deeply rusted components I have used Evapo-rust as noted in one of the videos. Regards, Tony
Good vid I usually use wd-40 let it soak in a bit and scrub with my park tool blue brush then wipe, if that doesn't work I take everything off and soak in orange peelz de-greaser overnight
Good if you can remove the component from the bike and the bolt is not stuck in the frame. I like "Knocker Loose" with is a penetrating llubricant that also removes rust and corrosion. Thanks for the input. Regards, Tony
Uhm my seat post has gained some speedholes large enough for my big toe to fit through. They were hidden under the paint, but it gave it a poke with various tools and removed all the weakened metal and that's what i'm left with. Inside, there was a piece of partially rotten sponge, which must have taken on water and caused the corrosion, also there is no drainage. I don't think any more structurally critical parts of the frame have corrosion in them, so i still want to restore it. I don't think either of these techniques is applicable to that spot.
For your own safety (or anyone you sell or give it to), replace the seatpost. The seatpost does not really effect the restoration. Double check the seat tube again to make sure there is no rust or corrosion. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed My apologies i meant seat tube having speedholes, i brainfarted when i typed seatpost. The seatpost is actually fresh because the old one i chose to remove with violence since it was galled to the frame seat tube, so it doesn't even exist any longer. I'm not the first owner, this is a recovered abandoned bike. This is a step-through steel youth-MTB-citybike hybrid type of bicycle, so mtb frame, 26" double-wall wheels and 3x7 drivetrain, citybike amenities such as rack, fenders, bottle dynamo lighting, they were coming like that from the factory, of the type sold at department stores. There are two absolutely gargantuan super heavyweight ovalised tubes making up the main frame, one connects to the seat tube above the damage and one below the damage, so there is a LOT of structure around the damage so i don't think this portion of seat tube is structural in this bike. I talked to a bunch of people smarter than myself showed them the pictures and they agreed that it looks like it's not a structural hazard. Furthermore the metal is extremely thin where it rusted through to begin with. The bottom of the seat tube is narrow to accommodate a clamp-on front derailleur, and the top is much wider, so they must have expanded it with a die, and the rusted-through spots are right at the top of the neck where they must have stretched the metal the worst. My current plan is to find the right bit of steel pipe to create a replacement piece and bring it to someone at a hackerspace collective known for all types of metal work and for restoring bicycles who can weld or hardsolder it in, or perhaps they have a suitable piece at hand. Currently figuring out whom to talk to :D So the goal is to make it better than it ever used to be. Of course they might say "oh no no no just go in our cellar and pick yourself a frame in slightly better condition", i could go for that i suppose if they have something i like. But i don't really want to since well i adopted it from the street, it's mine now. Can't imagine ever selling it or giving it away actually. Wherever i move, it's coming with me. I've had it for over a decade already and it's gotten me through some terrible and not so terrible times.
@@SianaGearz Hard to determine the amount of damage to the frame without seeing the bike. I am still concerned about structural integrity at the very least would have a bicycle mechanic look at it. If it was me, I'd remove the working components and replace the frame. The issue here is your safety. Regards, Tony
Keep it clean, dry if you ride in wet weather and store in a place that is dry with low humidity. My 15 year old steel Independent Fabrication has no rust is looks like it was when new. Regards, Tony
Good suggestion but have you tried to make a paste of baking soda and lemon juice? The acidity of the lemon juice reacts with the baking soda leaving a thin watery liquid. What is your method?
@@tony10speed it might be terrible wrong, but I have a 1941 bicycle with ALOT of surface rust and blisters, but I wanted to save the original paint because of the beautifully crafted pinstripes and handpainted decorations and don't be shocked, but I actually used toilet cleaner, soaking a few minutes and then carefully cleaned and removed all rust blisters with a 600 grit wetpaper, followed by thoroughly warm soap water, followed with a polish of linseed oil, added a few drops of non-mineral terpentine. I did the wheels last night and it looks almost as new, naturally with the rust damage still being in the lacquer, but without rust. When it comes to chrome stuff, I usually just let it soak in citrit acid for a day and then polish it with Brasso (old English brand). Depending whether the surface can hold it without being uneven coloured ( yellowish), I sometimes put on a clear lacquer, to avoid future rust blossoming up. Besides that, I think Alfa and Omega to any restoration/ conservation is albow grease, patience and being nitpicking 😉 I have previously rinsed of rust from various things by soaking it in baking powder and citric acid with a few drops of regular washing fluid to break the surface, followed by a clean water rinse. I have never noticed anything like you mention, but granted, I don't think I have used it on Chrome and I always brush the items while rinsing under tapwater. I think I will test it on something Chrome plated now and see if I can get the same response. Thanks for asking.
@@tony10speed the reason, why I tried toilet cleaner, was because of af guy here on youtube, I saw him use something called CLR (Calcium,lime and rust). We don't have that in Sweden, so I look at the ingredients and it's basically regular toilet cleaner, so I thought why not. And worked really good. I have never been fond of steel wool, because it difficult to use with an even application of pressure, which sometimes results in unwanted scratches. It's easier to control wet sanding paper, and depending on the surface it goes between 600-3000 grit. 2000 grit is excellent for clean polishing and when you want the perfect scratch free shiny surface, use 3000 grit. It's what goldsmiths use for the perfect luster.
Spaying the area with WD-40 and then using tin foil takes off superficial rust and acts like a rubbing compound to move the surrounding paint over the area. For deep rust, I use either #001 teel wool (sometimes even #002 grade). When using steel wool, it removes rust and paint down to the metal and requires touch up painting. On chrome, I use grade #000 to remove superficial oxidation. For some deeply rusted components I have used Evapo-rust as noted in one of the videos. Regards, Tony
Question: my mtb front suspension forks (dart 3) are really rusty on the exposed part of the tube. I can’t afford a new quality shock so I’m thinking if I take the shock apart and soak that part and manage to take off most the rust, then rebuild shock... is this my best bet? Or can I buy just the part I need?? I’ve looked and I believe the parts I see available are just for the inner shock? Any tips or input appreciated
Soaking the fork (after disassembly) with something like Evapo-Rust may remove the painted surface. Then you have to rebuild the shock. If the suspension fork works well and rust on the outside is the only problem, consider using WD-40 and a ball of aluminum foil to remove some of the superficial rust. I've also used "0000" steel wool, but go lightly or you'll remove some paint. Then you can touch up with some Rust-oleum (closest color match you can find) if desired. If the fork needs to be serviced, see: th-cam.com/video/TOglU0Fnz7A/w-d-xo.html Regards, Tony
It actually aluminum foil and is more gentle on the paint work, acting much like a rubbing compound when used with WD-40 (which helps it slide across the frame). Use it gently or it will remove the paint. It may take off some of the clear coat in which case I use Montana clear coat spay (doesn't yellow and comes in gloss, semi gloss and matte). Steel wool will definitely remove any rust but also removes paint, even the #0000. I use the #0000 steel wool on non carbon wheels to remove corrosion and on bright work such as non painted handle bars and cranks. Thanks for asking. Regards, Tony
No. But rub softy with the ball of tin foil or you will remove some of the clear coat and paint. It's somewhat like using rubbing compound on the scratches of your car. Regards, Tony
You can use some cardboard to show the indentations of the sit bone, but I find that aluminum foil (what the old timers called tin foil) holds it shape the best, making it easier to measure. Regards, Tony
Yes, that will work. I usually just soak the component in a plastic contain with lid (prevent evaporation) for 48 hours. Will remove paint as well as rust. I have a freewheel soaking right now and hopefully will be able to disassemble the cogs for spare parts. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Coke Cola did little to remove rust on the frame. I think it worked well on the wheel because they had more corrosion then rust and any rust on the wheels were minimum. Thanks for the question. Tony
More expensive and gives mixed results despite what some video say. You also have to purchase a specific color. But I will break down and try some on my next bike restoration.
The techniques vary so try the least destructive first such as rubbing compound, the WD-40, then the Coca Cola, and finally the steel wool. As you can see in this video, I finally had to take down the paint and rust on the rear chain stays to the metal and repaint. If you remove the components, you can get better results with spray paint (an undercoat may be necessary before hand) and finally, after painting, finish with a "clear coat" but not just any one. Most of the clear sprays from Walmart or other stores will yellow with time. There are specific clear coats for smooth or matte finish and I'll get back to you with those specifics if you're interested. Regards, Tony
I have rust spots just like that on my bicycle where the paint rubbed away, are you saying you just put Rust-Oleum on it? What do you do after you apply Rust-Oleum? Will you please be specific, you must understand there are beginners watching your videos so you must be specific.
This is a budget restoration (not vintage or classic bike restoration where you want to strip down all the paint, spray with under coat and then spay paint). Here, we just try our best to match the color, paint on the Rust-Oleum (several thin coats) and let dry. When we've finished with the bike restoration and the paint has dried, we'll use some Simonize or car wax to shine up the bike. P.S. We try to be specific as possible in our videos but obviously don't touch on all issues. That's why we ask you to comment and try to reply as soon as possible. Regards, Tony
It's not just the steel. If you keep it clean, wipe it down when it gets wet and store it in a dry low humidity location indoors, it should continue to look like new. Regards, Tony
This was more of an experiment and demonstration to compare various techniques. So I started with the Mongoose without the worry of damaging a vintage bike. It later got donated to someone in need. Thanks and regards, Tony
I know the video is 4 years old but thank you buddy im trying to restore a vintage bmx, great video!
Let me know if you have questions and how you make out. Regards, Tony
Thanks for the video, Tony. It will certainly be of use in restoring a 1999 Lemond Zurich I just picked up.
Always test the method on a small area that is not easily visible to see how it works for you. Go slow and be cautious. Let me and our viewers know what work best for you through more comments on this or other videos. Thanks and have fun, Tony
Amazing video, thank you! I am about to start restoring a vintage bike and that was just what I needed 🙂
Let me know how you make out. Also visit our TH-cam home site at:
th-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thanks Tony! This is gonna help a lot with my classic bike restoration projects.
The techniques vary on how well they work. Greater care is needed on classic and vintage bikes then the one I was working on. Try very small areas that would not be easily seen first. Use of the aluminum foil with WD40 can remove clear coat and paint unless you use a very light hand. As you can see from this video, I needed to repaint some areas. The #0000 steel wool worked great on the handlebars and crank which were not painted. Good luck and let me know if you ever post your restorations on TH-cam. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed Yes I tried in on the chainstays first and found that it dulls the paint around the area a bit, so I think I'll try polishing it after the rust removal
@@hananas2 The dull finish probably indicates the need for a "clear coat" spay. I use Montana Varnish (from Amazon) since it does not yellow (don't go after the cheap stuff from Warlmart or your local store). It come in gloss, semi gloss and matte depending on the finish on the rest of the bike. See:
www.amazon.com/s?k=montana+spray+varnish&crid=2OGHPSAUMEHS2&sprefix=montana+spray+v%2Caps%2C162&ref=nb_sb_ss_i_1_15
Make sure to use several very light coats until you get the appearance your looking for.
Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed Thanks Tony!
Hope your grandson enjoyed the bike!
He did. Thanks and regards, Tony
Can it work on alloy bikes?
Yes, but use care. Alloy is a softer metal than steel.
Just what I was looking for, thanks very much
You're welcome. Visit our TH-cam home site at:
th-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
hi do you know how to remove black stain (oil/grease) on bike frame? i removed the old paint by using paint remover, but theres black stain that still there. help me
I'm surprised that the paint thinner did not remove the grease (if it is truly grease). What you may be seeing is residual paint after it has reacted with the paint thinner. Paint thinner may not be good enough to remove all the paint and you may have to go with something stronger. Here are several videos to consider:
th-cam.com/video/frx8ncTZOS8/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=GMBNTech
and
th-cam.com/video/7fo3vmFDSbI/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=63fixed
and
th-cam.com/video/LEGAb9Fu2Zk/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=SickBiker
If what you're seeing is rust, try Evapo-rust and/or fine #000 steel wool.
Awesome video. Seriously, amazing. Thank you!
Glad it was useful. Now on to restoring more bicycles left at the curb side. Regards, Tony
Hi Tony. Nice video. Why thin foil please.
Spaying the area with WD-40 and then using tin foil takes off superficial rust and acts like a rubbing compound to move the surrounding paint over the area. For deep rust, I use either #001 teel wool (sometimes even #002 grade). When using steel wool, it removes rust and paint down to the metal and requires touch up painting. On chrome, I use grade #000 to remove superficial oxidation. For some deeply rusted components I have used Evapo-rust as noted in one of the videos. Regards, Tony
Good vid I usually use wd-40 let it soak in a bit and scrub with my park tool blue brush then wipe, if that doesn't work I take everything off and soak in orange peelz de-greaser overnight
Good if you can remove the component from the bike and the bolt is not stuck in the frame. I like "Knocker Loose" with is a penetrating llubricant that also removes rust and corrosion. Thanks for the input. Regards, Tony
good tips sir. WD40 is my favourite. Use it all the time on all. Yes on all. Works great.
It does work with the aluminum foil. Rug gently and you can preserve the paint (at least in most cases). Regards, Tony
Uhm my seat post has gained some speedholes large enough for my big toe to fit through. They were hidden under the paint, but it gave it a poke with various tools and removed all the weakened metal and that's what i'm left with. Inside, there was a piece of partially rotten sponge, which must have taken on water and caused the corrosion, also there is no drainage. I don't think any more structurally critical parts of the frame have corrosion in them, so i still want to restore it.
I don't think either of these techniques is applicable to that spot.
For your own safety (or anyone you sell or give it to), replace the seatpost. The seatpost does not really effect the restoration. Double check the seat tube again to make sure there is no rust or corrosion. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed My apologies i meant seat tube having speedholes, i brainfarted when i typed seatpost. The seatpost is actually fresh because the old one i chose to remove with violence since it was galled to the frame seat tube, so it doesn't even exist any longer. I'm not the first owner, this is a recovered abandoned bike.
This is a step-through steel youth-MTB-citybike hybrid type of bicycle, so mtb frame, 26" double-wall wheels and 3x7 drivetrain, citybike amenities such as rack, fenders, bottle dynamo lighting, they were coming like that from the factory, of the type sold at department stores. There are two absolutely gargantuan super heavyweight ovalised tubes making up the main frame, one connects to the seat tube above the damage and one below the damage, so there is a LOT of structure around the damage so i don't think this portion of seat tube is structural in this bike. I talked to a bunch of people smarter than myself showed them the pictures and they agreed that it looks like it's not a structural hazard. Furthermore the metal is extremely thin where it rusted through to begin with. The bottom of the seat tube is narrow to accommodate a clamp-on front derailleur, and the top is much wider, so they must have expanded it with a die, and the rusted-through spots are right at the top of the neck where they must have stretched the metal the worst.
My current plan is to find the right bit of steel pipe to create a replacement piece and bring it to someone at a hackerspace collective known for all types of metal work and for restoring bicycles who can weld or hardsolder it in, or perhaps they have a suitable piece at hand. Currently figuring out whom to talk to :D So the goal is to make it better than it ever used to be.
Of course they might say "oh no no no just go in our cellar and pick yourself a frame in slightly better condition", i could go for that i suppose if they have something i like. But i don't really want to since well i adopted it from the street, it's mine now.
Can't imagine ever selling it or giving it away actually. Wherever i move, it's coming with me. I've had it for over a decade already and it's gotten me through some terrible and not so terrible times.
@@SianaGearz Hard to determine the amount of damage to the frame without seeing the bike. I am still concerned about structural integrity at the very least would have a bicycle mechanic look at it. If it was me, I'd remove the working components and replace the frame. The issue here is your safety.
Regards, Tony
How to prevent the bike from rusting?
Keep it clean, dry if you ride in wet weather and store in a place that is dry with low humidity. My 15 year old steel Independent Fabrication has no rust is looks like it was when new. Regards, Tony
Can I use a sander and wd40
You must use a very find sand paper. Isn't there a danger of removing surrounding paint with the sander?
It should have been baking soda with lemon juice and not water.
Good suggestion but have you tried to make a paste of baking soda and lemon juice? The acidity of the lemon juice reacts with the baking soda leaving a thin watery liquid. What is your method?
@@tony10speed it might be terrible wrong, but I have a 1941 bicycle with ALOT of surface rust and blisters, but I wanted to save the original paint because of the beautifully crafted pinstripes and handpainted decorations and don't be shocked, but I actually used toilet cleaner, soaking a few minutes and then carefully cleaned and removed all rust blisters with a 600 grit wetpaper, followed by thoroughly warm soap water, followed with a polish of linseed oil, added a few drops of non-mineral terpentine.
I did the wheels last night and it looks almost as new, naturally with the rust damage still being in the lacquer, but without rust. When it comes to chrome stuff, I usually just let it soak in citrit acid for a day and then polish it with Brasso (old English brand). Depending whether the surface can hold it without being uneven coloured ( yellowish), I sometimes put on a clear lacquer, to avoid future rust blossoming up. Besides that, I think Alfa and Omega to any restoration/ conservation is albow grease, patience and being nitpicking 😉
I have previously rinsed of rust from various things by soaking it in baking powder and citric acid with a few drops of regular washing fluid to break the surface, followed by a clean water rinse.
I have never noticed anything like you mention, but granted, I don't think I have used it on Chrome and I always brush the items while rinsing under tapwater. I think I will test it on something Chrome plated now and see if I can get the same response. Thanks for asking.
Thank you for all the tips and will give some your suggestions a try. Regards and safe cycling, Tony@@lise1255
@@tony10speed the reason, why I tried toilet cleaner, was because of af guy here on youtube, I saw him use something called CLR (Calcium,lime and rust). We don't have that in Sweden, so I look at the ingredients and it's basically regular toilet cleaner, so I thought why not. And worked really good. I have never been fond of steel wool, because it difficult to use with an even application of pressure, which sometimes results in unwanted scratches. It's easier to control wet sanding paper, and depending on the surface it goes between 600-3000 grit. 2000 grit is excellent for clean polishing and when you want the perfect scratch free shiny surface, use 3000 grit. It's what goldsmiths use for the perfect luster.
Have you ever thought about Evapo Rust for rust removal on component?@@lise1255
Hi Tony. Nice video. Why thin foil please?
Spaying the area with WD-40 and then using tin foil takes off superficial rust and acts like a rubbing compound to move the surrounding paint over the area. For deep rust, I use either #001 teel wool (sometimes even #002 grade). When using steel wool, it removes rust and paint down to the metal and requires touch up painting. On chrome, I use grade #000 to remove superficial oxidation. For some deeply rusted components I have used Evapo-rust as noted in one of the videos. Regards, Tony
Question: my mtb front suspension forks (dart 3) are really rusty on the exposed part of the tube. I can’t afford a new quality shock so I’m thinking if I take the shock apart and soak that part and manage to take off most the rust, then rebuild shock... is this my best bet? Or can I buy just the part I need?? I’ve looked and I believe the parts I see available are just for the inner shock? Any tips or input appreciated
Soaking the fork (after disassembly) with something like Evapo-Rust may remove the painted surface. Then you have to rebuild the shock. If the suspension fork works well and rust on the outside is the only problem, consider using WD-40 and a ball of aluminum foil to remove some of the superficial rust. I've also used "0000" steel wool, but go lightly or you'll remove some paint. Then you can touch up with some Rust-oleum (closest color match you can find) if desired. If the fork needs to be serviced, see: th-cam.com/video/TOglU0Fnz7A/w-d-xo.html
Regards, Tony
but why the tin foil? does steel wool work similarly?
It actually aluminum foil and is more gentle on the paint work, acting much like a rubbing compound when used with WD-40 (which helps it slide across the frame). Use it gently or it will remove the paint. It may take off some of the clear coat in which case I use Montana clear coat spay (doesn't yellow and comes in gloss, semi gloss and matte). Steel wool will definitely remove any rust but also removes paint, even the #0000. I use the #0000 steel wool on non carbon wheels to remove corrosion and on bright work such as non painted handle bars and cranks. Thanks for asking. Regards, Tony
what effect did the wd-40 have on the paint? Did it cause any discoloration?
No. But rub softy with the ball of tin foil or you will remove some of the clear coat and paint. It's somewhat like using rubbing compound on the scratches of your car. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed thank you!
Do i really need tinfoil or can i use somthing else like a rag?
You can use some cardboard to show the indentations of the sit bone, but I find that aluminum foil (what the old timers called tin foil) holds it shape the best, making it easier to measure. Regards, Tony
aluminum or steel wool is necesssary , this process of rusting is part electromagnetic thru electron "pores"
Thank you !
You're welcome. Visit our TH-cam home site at:
th-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Well worth the money, grwat product
Thank you. Also visit our TH-cam home site at:
th-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thanks for the tips.
Evaporust takes everything off. not acidic. soak runs turn each day. wet paper towels enclosed Saran wrap leave over night
Yes, that will work. I usually just soak the component in a plastic contain with lid (prevent evaporation) for 48 hours. Will remove paint as well as rust. I have a freewheel soaking right now and hopefully will be able to disassemble the cogs for spare parts. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Did Coke Cola work on your bike frame? It seemed to work on the bike wheels.
Coke Cola did little to remove rust on the frame. I think it worked well on the wheel because they had more corrosion then rust and any rust on the wheels were minimum. Thanks for the question. Tony
Why not try t-cut?
More expensive and gives mixed results despite what some video say. You also have to purchase a specific color. But I will break down and try some on my next bike restoration.
Thanks, just what I was looking for!
The techniques vary so try the least destructive first such as rubbing compound, the WD-40, then the Coca Cola, and finally the steel wool. As you can see in this video, I finally had to take down the paint and rust on the rear chain stays to the metal and repaint. If you remove the components, you can get better results with spray paint (an undercoat may be necessary before hand) and finally, after painting, finish with a "clear coat" but not just any one. Most of the clear sprays from Walmart or other stores will yellow with time. There are specific clear coats for smooth or matte finish and I'll get back to you with those specifics if you're interested. Regards, Tony
I have rust spots just like that on my bicycle where the paint rubbed away, are you saying you just put Rust-Oleum on it? What do you do after you apply Rust-Oleum? Will you please be specific, you must understand there are beginners watching your videos so you must be specific.
This is a budget restoration (not vintage or classic bike restoration where you want to strip down all the paint, spray with under coat and then spay paint). Here, we just try our best to match the color, paint on the Rust-Oleum (several thin coats) and let dry. When we've finished with the bike restoration and the paint has dried, we'll use some Simonize or car wax to shine up the bike. P.S. We try to be specific as possible in our videos but obviously don't touch on all issues. That's why we ask you to comment and try to reply as soon as possible.
Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed So the Rust-Oleum is both a paint and a rust inhibitor?
@@elon2159 Yes. That's why the term "Rust" in Rust-Oleum and "Oleum" which means a corrosive liquid to dissolve and inhibit.
hahaha I love the "this old bike" joke 😂
Me too. Regards, Toy
I have a bike frame its so rusted because its made of pure steel
It's not just the steel. If you keep it clean, wipe it down when it gets wet and store it in a dry low humidity location indoors, it should continue to look like new. Regards, Tony
All that for a Mongoose?? damn LOL just kiddin' all bikes are worth saving haha
This was more of an experiment and demonstration to compare various techniques. So I started with the Mongoose without the worry of damaging a vintage bike. It later got donated to someone in need. Thanks and regards, Tony