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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ส.ค. 2024
- This DIY video details the process of replacing the carbon brushes on a power window motor used in many Nissan and Infiniti vehicles, primarily the 350Z and G35.
Why pay $200.00+ for a new OEM window motor when you can rebuild your existing unit for a fraction of the price and a bit of your time. The replacement brushes I used can be purchased here:
store.eurtonelectric.com/brush...
Here's a few additional tips I've learned since I made this video:
1) Instead of wheel bearing grease (black grease seen in video) I recommend using Silicone Gear grease. This is what the factory originally used. The wheel bearing grease I used still works great. At the time I didn't have the Silicone Grease.
2) After sanding the copper commutator with 1000 grit sandpaper, I highly recommend coming back with some metal polish. I used Flitz and it worked great. This will help quiet the motor during operation.
3) Until the brushes fully break-in, you will notice the motor may be slightly louder than before. Don't worry, this is normal. Over time and use, the motor should/will quiet down. Extra attention to sanding/filing the brushes can dramatically help with this.
I hope you enjoy the video and good luck with your own DIY project! More videos to come!
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Brilliant, thanks! Just done a motor on my 350Z, saved me a packet and was pretty straight forward following your video. I couldn't get the right size brushes in the UK, had to go down to the nearest millemetre, but they seem to work fine, so far.
Great video! I was going to make one but I see yours is already top notch!
350Z DIY I have accomplished rebuilding motor, thank you for your video. You deserve more views. ++++++
Thanks alot for the diy dude, it helped me out alot haha. unfortunately I had a brain fart and chipped the new carbon brushes during the install but they still work. Il end up rebuilding them again eventually.
I tried the rest with no luck. I solved problem by raising window all the way up. then I tore all apart and removed window motor from regulator. then got in the car and and hit the window switch up. when it stopped I unplugged switch. I had someone hold the window all the up and reassemble. perfect working great.
Very good video , it is very helpful one .....many thanks for it.
super vidéo très bien détaillée
Excellent video! Thanks!!
Awesome video! Works great now, you seriously saved me a couple hundred bucks thanks!
Happy to hear it! These motors don't have any bearings, so rebuilding them should be possible for years!
nice video i tink the brush case comes out just by pulling it out
This might be true for some Nissan models or aftermarket replacement motors, but this is not the case for the OEM window motors installed on 350Zs and G35s. You must unsolder the power connections to the cage prior to removing it (as seen in the video). Failure to doing this could cause severe damage to the brush cage and motor assembly.
will the brushes work on the convertible top motors on a 2004 350z. Thanks for the video!
brushes work great, somehow I have the timing off for the automatic window. when I press the automatic button for up or down. whindows does full cycle and comes back to rest halfway open.
+jason palmere You will need to reset/retune the window motor after re-installing it. The procedure is simple and quick. Check the reset procedure found here: www.powerwin.com.au/mechanicscorner/Nissan%20Reset%20Procedure.pdf
I have used this procedure on my 2006 350Z base model and it works great. Depending on your make and model the procedure could be different. Also there is a typo in the doc. You LIFT UP to roll the window UP and push DOWN to roll the window DOWN. No idea why the person wrote up to go down.
I may have missed it but how did you measure what length to file brushes down to? Got to do mine shortly
Great video! I have the brushes on order and will be replacing my brushes this weekend. You said the motor originally had silicone gear grease. I have some pure silicone grease, and that stuff is really thick and sticky. I have looked up the Sil-Glyde and it isn't 100% silicone and is actually mostly petroleum based. I was just wondering which would be best. I know some greases are compatible with each other and didn't want to mix in the wrong type of grease with any that still might be inside the housing where the shaft goes. Thanks.
Hi Lemmy, you make some excellent points there. I must admit, I haven't used the Sil-Glyde on any of my window motors yet, but I did recently use it for my oscillating room fan and it worked great, however it is thick and must be used sparingly if used at all on one of these power window motors. The stuff that seems to be on the motor shaft from the factory is pretty light weight grease(yellowish in color). It honestly reminds me of the grease used in Radio Control Car Differentials. Very soft and not super sticky/thick, more like a gel. I've been looking for something closer to it and so far the Sil-Glyde seems to be a good fit, but after using it on my room fan which operates at low RPM, it could be a little too thick for this application. I believe if a very modest amount is used, it will work just fine, but I have yet to experiment with it. I may just make a run to the local hobby shop and buy some differential grease. Whatever you use, DON'T use Lithium grease! The Valvoline wheel bearing grease I currently have on my motors is working just fine, but I feel the motors could be quieter with something a little thicker. But keep in mind, thicker more viscous grease means slower operation of the motor and this could possibly prevent it from functioning. These motors operate at high RPM due to the gear ratio used to produce the torque required to move the heavy window up and down. I have a spare driver's side window motor and I think I'll go ahead and rebuild it using the Sil-Glyde to see what type of results I get with it. The best test of a healthy window motor for me is to check if the window quickly opens(cracks) when opening the door. If the window doesn't crack/move at all, that's not good!
Update on the grease: I think the 3M clear silicone paste would be an excellent fit for this job. I've been using this on all kinds of automotive applications to prevent squeaks. It works great, it's not very viscous and won't eat rubber/plastic! Here's a link: www.amazon.com/3M-08946-Clear-Silicone-Paste/dp/B005RNEH5O/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1511993562&sr=1-3&keywords=clear+silicone+grease
Great video! Any suggestions for getting the commutator arm back into the motor housing? Mine won't seat fully and leaves a 1/4 inch gap.
Double check to make sure you removed the excess solder off the power leads on the brush assembly. Sometimes the built up solder will prevent them from fitting through those tiny cut outs in the motor housing. While you're at it, make sure there isn't any blockage where the shaft goes, and double check that the shunts on your brushes aren't getting pinched/kinked anywhere in the housing. Try that and let me know :)
Thanks 350z, the brushes were getting pinched. Works great!
I did and when I put everything back so the motor is dead :(
Pls help me
AWSOME VIDEO!!! But my question is.. Is it 2 carbon per motor???
Hi Igor, yes you need two brushes per motor. the ones I linked under the description work great. The ones from Eurton appear to be high carbon brushes, these are the best match I could find to the OEM originals (both in size and material).
I've seen other window motors (Hyundai) where the springs and brushes freeze because of the grease getting on them, does this not happen on the 350z?
I'm mainly trying to figure out whether it would be a quick (possibly temporary) fix to just clean the brush and contact points.
No, this will not happen on the 350Z window motor so long as you... 1) Use the correct type of grease,. 2) Apply the grease sparingly and 3) Only apply the grease to the correct locations. The brush cage/holder is sealed pretty well against grease encroachment. Some people do have success with just a simple cleaning of the brushes, but more often than not their window motor issues come back after a few months of use. This issue is primarily due to the brushes themselves being worn down beyond use-able specs. The brush springs can no longer provide enough force to keep them in contact with the commutator. New brushes must be installed at some point.
@350Z DIY hi there, great video , too bad i saw your video too late, just after i ordered a new motor for my g35, window worked good , till it dropped half way few times and then wouldn't go up any more. i tried fixing it , so i took it a part and cleaned it but didn't change the brushes , still had ~ 5mm left , but sill wouldn't go up with a load and getting hot , even took the limit switch gears apart to see.. i was surprise also that you could just push in the commutator i had to kind of screw it in. do you think new brushes is the answer or it could be something else ? thanks.
If the brush retainer springs are not applying solid pressure/contact against the commutator, then it's a good bet that's the problem. New brushes should be around 10mm. It could also be possible that the brush shunts (copper wires) are weak, or have poor contact. Other possibilities include shorted windings on the armature or the microcontroller safety switch is fried. In your case, have you inspected the window regulator closely? If the braided steel cable is binding anywhere, that could overload the electric motor. These types of regulators often bind up on the spindle that the motor's gearbox slots into. Typically the braided cable will start having wires fray/break. Once this happens the loose wires will get tangled up in the spindle or the guide tubes. With the motor removed from the regulator, you should be able to move the window mounts by hand. Grab the window mounts and sliding them up and down their guides. There should be some resistance, but nothing extreme. I recommend checking the regulator and making sure all the pulleys are good (they are plastic and sometimes these break!) and there are no signs of fraying or broken wires on the braided cable. If the regulator checks out good, then the only other area of concern would be the window glass guide rails in the door. It never hurts to make sure these are clean and free of gunk (does require you to remove the window glass). If you've done both of these things, then the motor is almost certainly the problem and should be replaced if rebuilding with new brushes fails. Good Luck!
@@350zdiy7 thanks for the reply. i cleaned the regulator track and cables , i can roll the glass up and down with a ratchet, not by hand, cause they're not bolted. it looks like it winds without lifting till it hits the limit switch and then it's dead . feels like when the motor is not strong enough to lift , it activates the ant clip switch limiter ? i'll get some new brushes and experiment, what do you think about using the silicone grease that is used for the caliper pins ?? thanks again.for a great video.
@@dayslife It should be safe to use the 3M Silicone Paste (www.amazon.com/3M-08946-Clear-Silicone-Paste/dp/B005RNEH5O/ref=asc_df_B005RNEH5O/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312453079106&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14194330410578957106&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031936&hvtargid=pla-479376653204&psc=1)
Note: Do not use Molybdenum (Moly) caliper grease! This stuff is too thick/sticky for this application.
Also have you tried the window reset procedure yet? This procedure sets the end points for the window glass and also allows for the proper "cracking" of the window when you open the door. (Quick Guide: www.350z-uk.com/topic/105742-window-reset-procedure-clarifiedi-hope/). If you're still using the OEM motor assembly, there should be a small black rubber button on the side of it. This can be accessed with everything installed in the door by removing one of the black plastic discs on the inside of the door panel. This will only work if you can get the window to fully open/close using the control switch (cannot use the auto-open/close function, have to hold your finger on the switch).
could you do this with the door lock actuator?
Hi Jim, great question....Honestly, I'm not sure. I haven't had the need or chance to take one of these apart. After doing some research, it looks modern actuators use a small DC motor, similar to ones used in tiny toy cars(like those old Tamiya racers). If you can find appropriate sized brushes, I suppose it's possible. But it really all depends on the design of the motor and whether or not you can safely dismantle it. This would be an interesting project to test and play with.
Thank for the video, i took apart my motor and i have a different brush assembly. Is there a way to purchase the ones in the video?
Hi Yoda, the link for the Eurton Brushes is in the video description. Those are the exact same units I purchased and used in the video.
yeah i purchased those brushes, but the brush assembly is different and wont take those brushes. Do you by chance know where i can by the assembly and replace my old ones with the ones in the video?
We're can I get the carbons tho the outo parts out here don't have them
I purchased mine from Eurton Electric: store.eurtonelectric.com/brushlowvoltage33-h-3.aspx
Hi there, by any chance, can you tell me the size and type of carbon you used in this rebuild bro? my is a 05 G35 coupe and don't want to open the motor if I can find those brushes here in NZ. Great video by the way!!!
@118086096591697655725 These are the dimensions of the brushes I used, these are a near perfect match to the Factory Originals.(0.16" x 0.18" x 0.39")
El Cuajinais Note: I put a link in the description with the Brush details: store.eurtonelectric.com/brushlowvoltage33-h-3.aspx
@@350zdiy7 is that in inches?
@@maxpowers131 Yes, the measurements listed are in inches. A quick conversion to mm will read 4.0mm x 4.3mm x 10mm and a 41mm shunt length. Again this is using the Eurton P/N listed in the video description. Others have had success using model car motor brushes since they are easier to find and cheaper. My experience with model car brushes is that they are smaller with a different style shunt. This will cause fitment issues which may lead to other failure modes.
@@350zdiy7 and they need to be sanded down because I'm going to assume they come flat and need to be shaped to the rotor.
How do I know if the brushes are culprit? My motor is not rotating but is heating up, a lot.
Should I change the brushes?
Are you bench testing the motor with it removed from the regulator? If the motor is getting hot, it could be that the regulator is jammed. Pull the motor from the regulator to test.
@@350zdiy7 I'm not actually sure what bench testing means.I'll walk you through this.
1.one of the power windows wasn't responding at all.
2.I removed all the door paneling and took out the entire assembly including the sliding mechanism.
3.On removing the motor casing and taking out the coil, there was black deposit on commutator.
4.Cleaned the contact points with a fine sandpaper,and put the setup back together. There wasn't much carbon brush to push apart, there was very little to be pushed back, maybe a millimeter on each side.
5.The entire mechanism was working (sliding)smoothly when I ran it without load.
6.after I riveted it back on the door and fixed the window glass, it worked. But after 2 or 3 repetitions, it ceased to work.
7.I again took out the assembly and tried to run it without load, but again it wont move.
8.I opened everything again and the motor was too hot to touch and black deposit was back on commutator.
9.I cleaned and repeated everything, only for it to cease working when I put load on it again.
@@thefreak2788 Are the retaining springs for the brushes actually pushing/holding the brushes against the commutator? Or are the brushes floating there loosely? The brushes require solid contact. If you're getting lots of black carbon build up immediately after only a few uses, that tells me that you have poor contact and there's a lot of arcing occurring. How much material is left on the brushes from end to end? A good set should be around 10mm or 1cm. It's very possible that solid state electric component on the brush assembly has burned out, in which case I would bite the bullet and purchase a new aftermarket motor. That being said, if your brushes are clearly not making solid contact with the commutator (brush springs/tensioners at maximum), then it's worth a shot to replace them. A cheaper alternative to the brushes I recommended are actually RC car motor brushes. I've heard of folks having good success with these, although they are smaller vs. the OEM units. The Eurton P/N I listed in the description most closely matches the OEM brushes.
@@350zdiy7 yeah the brushes are worn and is just making a little contact. I assumed it was brush failure, and have already ordered them from aliexpress. But later I became skeptical and that's when I came across your video. Lucky me, you did reply to my comments. I am happy that I got a credible second opinion.
thanks a lot mate. this really means a lot.
:)
my 00 maxima driver side window got stuck half way up. I took the whole window motor apart and realized that the brushes that touch the electro magnet where extremely worn down. where can I buy just the brushes and is that the correct name for them. maybe I'm looking it up wrong. their similar to the brushes on an alternator if you ever rebuilt one.
Hi Ron, I used the low voltage DC brushes from Eurton Electric and they work great. See link: store.eurtonelectric.com/brushlowvoltage33-h-3.aspx
Since you have a 2000 Maxima, the motors/brushes could be slightly different, so make sure to measure the dimensions (or approximate dimensions) of the original brushes before purchasing.
Good Luck!
350Z DIY hey thanks a lot my boii. it's very much appreciated you just saved me some cash and earned a new subscriber. keep up the good work. I tried calling a place where they repair the power window mechanism and told them I didn't need it repaired and that I was just seeing if they could give me the number to a place where I could buy just the brushes and like you would expect they played dumb and said they didn't know of any. Anyways thanks again and God bless you.
350Z DIY oh Ya one more thing are they universal or do I need specific ones for my maxima. I'm not too sure and want to be sure before I purchase them. thanks again.
Hi Ron, The Eurton Electric brushes I ordered are, for the most part, universal. I believe the Maxima models from the early to mid 2000s use nearly identical window motors as the 350Z. Regarding the repair place playing dumb, I experienced the exact same thing. They didn't want to help me at all by sharing parts supplier information. They instead wanted me to buy the brushes from them, which were overpriced. The brushes they offered were also not the correct style/design. The dimensions were too small and the shunt style was wrong. They were clearly brushes designed for model RC car motors.
Those bastards. I get why they do.it. so they dont lose business. But they should think if im asking them about the brushes and where i can buy them. They should off the bat think, ok this guy obviously knows what hes talking about and try to help and maybe gain a future customer. But nope, they rather try to play people for fools & they sure ass hell arent going to draw new clients jist on reputation alone. It always makes me wonder how businesses that try to take advantage of their clients ever expect to last when they burn their bridges any chance they get.
Yaaa the scenes with the G35 aren't filmed by you. I would know because I made that video.
My brother helped me cut and edit this video together (He's the Adobe master, not me). If the picture and short scene with the G35 are content you filmed, please send me the link and I'll make sure you get credit for it in the description. I'll edit out the whole intro otherwise.
Please also note, this channel is not monetized. Any adds on this video were put there because of the copyrighted audio. I post videos here and there to help the Z community, this is not my full time gig nor do I wish to make it so.
350Z DIY eyy bro do you think other types of carbon brushes will work as long as they are the same size? what i mean by other types is for example like the ones that electric power impact drills use(makita,ect.)
Hi Alonso,
The short answer is yes. Other brands/types of carbon brushes should work just fine. For the most part, these brushes are all made of the same material. Just be careful about the size and the shunt style. There could be clearance issues if the shunt comes off parallel to the brush. That's why I recommend the ones I used since they come off perpendicular to the brush, the same as the originals.
cool man thanks! either way i just finished rebuilding the motors with the same brushes you used i ordered them and they work great! you did a great video thanks alot!
alonso ruiz That's Awesome! I'm glad my video was able to help!
350Z DIY WRONG!!! A/C TYPE BRUSHES WILL NOT WORK!! e.g. THOSE FOR ELECTRIC POWER HAND TOOLS,BRUSHES ARE DESIGNED SPECIFICALLY FOR THE PURPOSE INTENDED SOME HAVE MORE COPPER CONTENT SOME MORE CARBON VARYING THE RESISTANCE IN THEM DEPENDING ON THE APPLICATION , LEAVE THIS TYPE OF WORK TO THE EXPERTS!! I'VE SEEN MOTORS FRY DUE TO OWNERS ATTEMPTING REPAIRS AND NOT HAVING THE KNOWLEDGE TO DO THE JOB CORRECTLY. SAVING A FEW DOLLARS IS NOT WORTH FRYING YOUR MOTOR OR WORSE!!
***** Fred relax with the Capslock. Thanks for the info regarding AC and DC brushes. The brushes I've linked in the video description are specifically designed for low voltage DC motors (power window motors for example). Other people have used model car/plane motor brushes which are also DC and haven't experienced any issues.
Where did you get those brushes?
The link to purchase the ones I used is in the description.
BETTER OFF TO REUSE THE ORIGINAL SEALANT, IF YOU USE ANY TYPE OF SILICON SEALANT WHICH CURES
YOU WILL HAVE DIFFICULTY REMOVING IT IN THE EVENT THAT THE MOTOR NEEDS WORK IN THE FUTURE
Re-using the original sealant is possible, but more difficult. You will need to melt it back into the housing. The silicone sealant requires a little extra effort to remove after it cures, but I have already gone through this procedure and it's really not difficult. The silicone breaks off in nice clean chunks and doesn't leave that sticky/waxy residue on everything it touches.
God bless you man...i called the local nissan stealership and they quoted me $406 + tax for motor only. I was like motherfucker i'm not buying the whole door...
I have 04 Maxima and my motor is the same size and shape but i notice some minor differences. Looks like i don't have to mess with the sealant and soldering - there is a cap which comes off and there are two metal prongs inside. I hope the brushes are the same size...didn't put it apart yet.
Thank you!
Did the same size brushes work out for you Mickey? I have an 04 Maxima as well and need to rebuilt
How many of you almost backed out of the video because of the difficulty level? Lol
I made it too. Want to know how ? just go to inplix webpage.
Time or money. I've built transmissions to save thousands. But to do all this for 2 brushes you must be poor. That's a lot of bullshit to have a half rebuilt when a 150 dollar new window motor will last 10 to 15 yrs.
The video is 9 years old. At the time of posting, replacement OEM (not aftermarket garbage) motors were far more expensive than $150 (today around $250 each). But to your point, it's a hassle and if you can afford to purchase new, that's great.
I may have missed it but how did you measure what length to file brushes down to? Got to do mine shortly
Hey Hemi, there's no specific length you need to file the brushes down to. The idea behind filing the brushes is only to replicate the curvature of the commutator since the new brushes come completely plained/flat on all sides. The goal is to leave as much material on the brushes as possible, while creating as much surface contact between the brushes and commutator. Extra attention to this step will help ensure a quieter motor, but in time the brushes will break-in and wear into the commutator from normal use. The brushes I recommend using posted in the description of the video are 10mm in overall length. If you purchase brushes longer than this, then I would sand down to 10mm first before matching the curvature. Anything longer than 10mm could pose problems when re-installing the brush assembly into the motor housing. I hope this answers your question =D
Good Luck with the rebuild!