Updates: @15:20 it could be from factory according to some comments @ 16:58 The dealership won't give me any information and wanted me to have them do the work. At the time it was too new for any 3rd party service manuals to be available. I found a vague explanation online calling out 71-89 in lbs. in a criss cross pattern incrementally increasing the torque value by 10in lbs till you reach the desired torque spec; after bringing the bolts down by and till they are even. This is similar to what I came up with at the time.I recommend aiming for the low end or slightly above incase your torque wrench is off.
The sealer that you said may have been a patch with a high cost. Where you found the sealer (Silicone) is a good way to help the gasket seal problem spots. use small amount. before you reinstall gasket use brake clean on a clean rag and clean the oil from the head side of gasket and the cover side as well. any oil could cause a leak.
Thanks man. Wish I’d have watched more prior to pissing myself when gas started spraying… Also, the RTV looking sealant in the corners was there from the factory. Owned since new and never been into a shop for anything around here
I try to give all the information I know to help someone unfamiliar with the subject, or someone very knowledgeable with the subject but may not know something in particular and also for myself if I need to refrence it at a later date. I also like the feedback that I recieve to inform myself of something I may not of known. Thanks for stopping by and taking the time to post a positive comment.
What does it mean when I take off in my car and smoke comes out the muffler not a lot just little do you think oil wants to get into the spark plugs and need to change the valve cover
Thanks! Yes it’s simple to do, just have patience . I highly recommend getting the top cover because mine felt brittle and hard to remove. It’s always good to have all the parts needed and returnable than not have and have to wait. I recommend reading the comment section because one person explained some sealant is needed in the corner to prevent leaks; I don’t recall the details nor have I encountered leaks without it.
Usually when cars have that rubber rtv They usually belong there. Its commonly used on corners and drastic angles in association with the gasket for anti leak protection and its been used by all car manufacturers for instance “hondabond” which is a particular rtv from honda so good practice to remove all old rtv and re spot them with new rtv or else those corners will be the first to spring a leak!
Well it appeared to be on the pulley side as if the area was sealed to the side of the block and oozed up. In past experiences I’ve came according some cars that people have used RTV on everything just to not have to spend money and sell a car 😒. It was only on the side with the belts so I doubt it belonged to the valve cover as a spot sealant. I could be wrong though since I’m not a mechanic 🤫. Good observation though and nice to learn something new!
Yes my friend Again they usually are on those 90ish degree areas as extra support for years and years my friend all the way back to 50’s small block v8 engines for instance you would have to spot the sides that began a curvature on the oil pan near the main seal persay and this just a very common example off the top of my head but yes im 100% sure that’s factory rtv Either way you did a great job for not being a mechanic!
@ 16:58 The dealership won't give me any information and wanted me to have them do the work. At the time it was too new for any 3rd party service manuals to be available. I found a vague explanation online calling out 71-89 in lbs. in a criss cross pattern incrementally increasing the torque value by 10in lbs till you reach the desired torque spec; after bringing the bolts down by and till they are even. This is similar to what I came up with at the time.I recommend aiming for the low end or slightly above incase your torque wrench is off.
Per Hyundais service bulletin, never reuse 2 bolts that hold a high-pressure fuel pump. It said must use two new bolts... but I have seen many of these videos and not one person used new bolts or even mention it so not sure if it critical or not...
Not sure, I know certain bolts are designed to stretch when the engine heats up and cools down for the design. My only question is why with the bolts need to be replace when the female threads can’t. I personally would recommend and change whatever is required for peace of mind anyway, especially the HIGH pressure that’s described. At the end of the day my videos are basic information to show the labor extensiveness, where things go in case you forget, and not necessarily to do the repairs. People that are more informed on particular details I would hope to chime in as you did. Thanks, your comment helps build a better information platform.
Bro bro please help me mine is leaking looks like yours with oil on muffler but the oil is all over the back of engine was you're the same please help asap
my sonata needs the same thing , went to midas and they want to charge me $425 for replacing them , I'm not going to pay this amount for gaskets ,, my question is : do these gaskets fit on Sonata SE 2.4 or are they for hybrid ?
$425 with warranty to replace everything I did and time is pretty decent. If you’re not use to doing stuff like this and can afford to pay, I’d recommend getting it done because they have specialized tools and experience. If you’re going to do it yourself, I’d recommend getting the cover as well because it seemed delicate banging it out as it stuck. It’s better to have all needed parts and return them than need them and not have them.
@PROJECT ANUBIS they won't guarantee the problem will be 100% fixed , and if I'm used to this , I'm used to take a whole ATM apart and assembling it back to working one , And your recommendation about getting the cover and return it back if not using it is a great idea
I have '12 sonata turbo. Did u notice a cover crack or anything. Mine just started to leak and smoke especially when shutting off I get a squirt right behind oil pump assembly
It has only 80k on it and not turbo. But from the heat the plastic is semi brittle but not cracked. I recommend changing it. I never changed it because it took months to get the gaskets and I didn’t realize the cover being that brittle until I took it off. If I knew what I know know I woulda ordered that too.
Mine was at 80k but probably burned it off at 70-75k as a small leak. I’d do it right away because it seemed like the burning of oil and heat made it harder to remove. I’d consider buying a valve cover also to be sure it doesn’t break. The gasket was scarce during Covid and took over a month to locate one. Most business have to order and the chain companies won’t send them to each other so I had to drive to get it; my local dealership ordered one and it kept getting pushed out in time.
Yeah I'm experiencing that now with the dealerships. I'll try Ebay and see what they have. By the way, love the tunes in the background, lol Do you plan to clean off burned oil from the heat shield? If so will you use degreaser or brake cleaner.
Hi, how are you able to find the valve cover gasket. I’m from houston and I can’t find it anywhere, apparently it’s backed ordered. Could you send me the link on where you found yours.
I had ordered it through my local seller and it got pushed out multiple times for a few month total until I found it at a dealership in Visalia. They wouldn’t ship it so I had to go pick it up, for some reason dealerships avoid sharing parts especially ones short handed. I don’t understand why but both dealerships told me this which I thought was weird.
Hey, I'm not sure if you're still looking for these parts, but a Kia dealership in Henderson, NV has a good quantity in stock. I just placed an order for mine online at genuinekiapartsandaccessories.com You can also call them 702-792-3200
@@Gaspar818 I’m not a Hyundai expert but yes if it looks like this visually which it should. I’d recommend buying a valve cover / rocker cover as well seeing that these are plastic and fuse on. take LOTS of pictures and finesse things.
The video was helpful, I was able to change the gaskets, but the car won't start now, I've double checked everything is plugged back in; it cranks but doesn't start to
Narrow it down fuel or fire... make sure the coil packs are seated properly on the plugs, all spark plugs are plugged in to the right harness, no harness plugs forgotten and your fuel pump is squirting fuel. If you have to remove everything and reattach it one by one so you don’t miss anything in that area. Also check your fuses for those areas To make sure you didn’t blow one when working on the engine.
@@ProjectAnubisUSA thank you! Thanks for your time and effort. I went back and checked everything and determine it was the fuel line. It was twisted. It was not twisted too much to block fuel entirely, but enough to prevent a start. I disconnected the fuel pump and untwisted the rubber line then reattached it. And when I started the vehicle it struggled for about 2 second then turned on. Awesome brother! thanks for your feedback.
I replaced the gasket on my car as well. Seems to have stopped the oil leak. Only issue is now I'm noticing a gas smell coming from the front of the engine when my car is idling. Not seeing any fuel leaking under the car. Some gas sprayed out of the high pressure fuel pump when I disconnected it, but I'm pretty sure I reconnected everything correctly and I even cleaned around it where the gas sprayed. Has anyone else had this problem after they changed their valve cover gaskets?
Thanks for this and the really valuable heads up tips. Very helpful. Same car 69k miles. I have a pressure release puff sound after I turn off engine? And oil leaks from the underside of valve cover edge at mid point on the firewall side. Is that just valve cover leak? Anyone else experience that? No codes thrown for air leaks.
I have a slight puff of air sound also but unsure if that’s related to the valve cover or piston compression exhausting as the engine dies. It sounds like a kickstart motorcycle finding top dead center before really kicking it over. It could also be intake forcing air back as it slowly stops drawing air. I’m not too sure. Since I wasn’t concerned about it till you mentioned it. 🫣
TH-cam copyrighted the music in the background. I was just explaining where to locate a few of the seals, the areas that kept the cover from breaking loose, clean the old gasket areas that are baked on and to take pictures. Nothing in this video requires audio to be honest just the steps in which things need to come off and visuals why. Most of the time I repeat myself to make sure anyone skipping around gets certain parts that I believe are key or critical. Thanks for informing me though.
Yeah that’s an option but a rag works faster, plus it evaporates. Plus unsure if it’s a good idea to run it fuseless since it might pop a code and that’s another thing to deal with.
I could literally assemble the Chevy 350 in my 81 Camaro faster than it takes to remove that valve cover. These modern cars are not “backyard mechanic” friendly…
I'm sure this has been said already many times, but just in case... the RTV gasket sealer is factory and make SURE you put it back in all corners or it will leak. Second, most (not all) shops are honest contrary to popular belief and stay plenty busy enough without needing to do anything to "cause you to come back". This would make zero sense at all, if you came back for the same problem they lose money, not make money. Thirdly, your understanding of this procedure is not from first hand experience and it's very apparent.
Never said I was an expert… I was just passing along the information as I fixed my problem. Most of these videos I post are to document my fixes so I have a timeline of what I did, when I done it and how I did it. If it helps others then great, if someone else has additional information then even better…. Everyday I try and learn something new and hopefully help others along the way while fixing my own issues. 🍻
@@spizzle2323 Get the gasket kit and the top plastic valve cover as seen in the picture. Getting everything will give a piece of mind. Also, the stuff took forever to find and sold out everywhere / back-ordered for months at the time of this video hence why I recommend everything just in-case the cover breaks.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 91 | คู่เอก "คมอาวุธ vs อเล็กเซย์"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/V0RkEfYFsgM/mqdefault.jpg)
Updates:
@15:20 it could be from factory according to some comments
@ 16:58
The dealership won't give me any information and wanted me to have them do the work. At the time it was too new for any 3rd party service manuals to be available. I found a vague explanation online calling out 71-89 in lbs. in a criss cross pattern incrementally increasing the torque value by 10in lbs till you reach the desired torque spec; after bringing the bolts down by and till they are even. This is similar to what I came up with at the time.I recommend aiming for the low end or slightly above incase your torque wrench is off.
The sealer that you said may have been a patch with a high cost. Where you found the sealer (Silicone) is a good way to help the gasket seal problem spots. use small amount. before you reinstall gasket use brake clean on a clean rag and clean the oil from the head side of gasket and the cover side as well. any oil could cause a leak.
Great presentation you have a great skill explaining the details
I appreciate you taking the time to drop some positive feedback. Good luck on your fix.
Thanks man. Wish I’d have watched more prior to pissing myself when gas started spraying…
Also, the RTV looking sealant in the corners was there from the factory. Owned since new and never been into a shop for anything around here
Thanks for the video it will help me alot when I change mine
Great video coming from a use car tech I learned a lot watching this video
I try to give all the information I know to help someone unfamiliar with the subject, or someone very knowledgeable with the subject but may not know something in particular and also for myself if I need to refrence it at a later date. I also like the feedback that I recieve to inform myself of something I may not of known. Thanks for stopping by and taking the time to post a positive comment.
What does it mean when I take off in my car and smoke comes out the muffler not a lot just little do you think oil wants to get into the spark plugs and need to change the valve cover
Wht about this problem ^^
I had been told it was the oil pump gasket /seal. searching youtube, that is a pretty involved job. damned cheap engines....
Great video, looks real simple to do.
Thanks! Yes it’s simple to do, just have patience . I highly recommend getting the top cover because mine felt brittle and hard to remove. It’s always good to have all the parts needed and returnable than not have and have to wait. I recommend reading the comment section because one person explained some sealant is needed in the corner to prevent leaks; I don’t recall the details nor have I encountered leaks without it.
Thanks for the video, I'll be doing this job soon but jeeez that looks like a headache of a job, so many little things to remove 😂
Usually when cars have that rubber rtv They usually belong there. Its commonly used on corners and drastic angles in association with the gasket for anti leak protection and its been used by all car manufacturers for instance “hondabond” which is a particular rtv from honda so good practice to remove all old rtv and re spot them with new rtv or else those corners will be the first to spring a leak!
Well it appeared to be on the pulley side as if the area was sealed to the side of the block and oozed up. In past experiences I’ve came according some cars that people have used RTV on everything just to not have to spend money and sell a car 😒. It was only on the side with the belts so I doubt it belonged to the valve cover as a spot sealant. I could be wrong though since I’m not a mechanic 🤫. Good observation though and nice to learn something new!
Yes my friend Again they usually are on those 90ish degree areas as extra support for years and years my friend all the way back to 50’s small block v8 engines for instance you would have to spot the sides that began a curvature on the oil pan near the main seal persay and this just a very common example off the top of my head but yes im 100% sure that’s factory rtv Either way you did a great job for not being a mechanic!
That's factory bond
Brother
What is the torque in lbs when putting everything back together ?
@ 16:58
The dealership won't give me any information and wanted me to have them do the work. At the time it was too new for any 3rd party service manuals to be available. I found a vague explanation online calling out 71-89 in lbs. in a criss cross pattern incrementally increasing the torque value by 10in lbs till you reach the desired torque spec; after bringing the bolts down by and till they are even. This is similar to what I came up with at the time.I recommend aiming for the low end or slightly above incase your torque wrench is off.
Per Hyundais service bulletin, never reuse 2 bolts that hold a high-pressure fuel pump. It said must use two new bolts... but I have seen many of these videos and not one person used new bolts or even mention it so not sure if it critical or not...
Not sure, I know certain bolts are designed to stretch when the engine heats up and cools down for the design. My only question is why with the bolts need to be replace when the female threads can’t. I personally would recommend and change whatever is required for peace of mind anyway, especially the HIGH pressure that’s described. At the end of the day my videos are basic information to show the labor extensiveness, where things go in case you forget, and not necessarily to do the repairs. People that are more informed on particular details I would hope to chime in as you did.
Thanks, your comment helps build a better information platform.
static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10154683-9999.pdf
Ima try this this weekend on my sonota 2015 sport 2.4 ...
May the force be with you :)
Bro bro please help me mine is leaking looks like yours with oil on muffler but the oil is all over the back of engine was you're the same please help asap
my sonata needs the same thing , went to midas and they want to charge me $425 for replacing them , I'm not going to pay this amount for gaskets ,, my question is : do these gaskets fit on Sonata SE 2.4 or are they for hybrid ?
I have the gas car no turbo, se 2.4 with sport mode.
$425 with warranty to replace everything I did and time is pretty decent. If you’re not use to doing stuff like this and can afford to pay, I’d recommend getting it done because they have specialized tools and experience. If you’re going to do it yourself, I’d recommend getting the cover as well because it seemed delicate banging it out as it stuck. It’s better to have all needed parts and return them than need them and not have them.
@PROJECT ANUBIS they won't guarantee the problem will be 100% fixed , and if I'm used to this , I'm used to take a whole ATM apart and assembling it back to working one ,
And your recommendation about getting the cover and return it back if not using it is a great idea
What I mean by the ATM part is : I'm used to fix complicated machines and very careful for the details
I have '12 sonata turbo. Did u notice a cover crack or anything. Mine just started to leak and smoke especially when shutting off I get a squirt right behind oil pump assembly
It has only 80k on it and not turbo. But from the heat the plastic is semi brittle but not cracked. I recommend changing it. I never changed it because it took months to get the gaskets and I didn’t realize the cover being that brittle until I took it off. If I knew what I know know I woulda ordered that too.
What mileage do you do yours at? I'm at 66k and it's starting to leak
Mine was at 80k but probably burned it off at 70-75k as a small leak. I’d do it right away because it seemed like the burning of oil and heat made it harder to remove. I’d consider buying a valve cover also to be sure it doesn’t break. The gasket was scarce during Covid and took over a month to locate one. Most business have to order and the chain companies won’t send them to each other so I had to drive to get it; my local dealership ordered one and it kept getting pushed out in time.
Yeah I'm experiencing that now with the dealerships. I'll try Ebay and see what they have. By the way, love the tunes in the background, lol
Do you plan to clean off burned oil from the heat shield? If so will you use degreaser or brake cleaner.
Hi, how are you able to find the valve cover gasket. I’m from houston and I can’t find it anywhere, apparently it’s backed ordered. Could you send me the link on where you found yours.
I had ordered it through my local seller and it got pushed out multiple times for a few month total until I found it at a dealership in Visalia. They wouldn’t ship it so I had to go pick it up, for some reason dealerships avoid sharing parts especially ones short handed. I don’t understand why but both dealerships told me this which I thought was weird.
Hey, I'm not sure if you're still looking for these parts, but a Kia dealership in Henderson, NV has a good quantity in stock. I just placed an order for mine online at genuinekiapartsandaccessories.com
You can also call them 702-792-3200
@@ProjectAnubisUSA will This work for my Hyundai Sonata sport 2015??
@@Gaspar818 I’m not a Hyundai expert but yes if it looks like this visually which it should. I’d recommend buying a valve cover / rocker cover as well seeing that these are plastic and fuse on. take LOTS of pictures and finesse things.
Great job very detail, should be self explanatory (my comment ) lol thank you
Thank you for the positive feedback!
The video was helpful, I was able to change the gaskets, but the car won't start now, I've double checked everything is plugged back in; it cranks but doesn't start to
Narrow it down fuel or fire... make sure the coil packs are seated properly on the plugs, all spark plugs are plugged in to the right harness, no harness plugs forgotten and your fuel pump is squirting fuel. If you have to remove everything and reattach it one by one so you don’t miss anything in that area. Also check your fuses for those areas To make sure you didn’t blow one when working on the engine.
@@ProjectAnubisUSA thank you! Thanks for your time and effort.
I went back and checked everything and determine it was the fuel line.
It was twisted.
It was not twisted too much to block fuel entirely, but enough to prevent a start.
I disconnected the fuel pump and untwisted the rubber line then reattached it. And when I started the vehicle it struggled for about 2 second then turned on. Awesome brother! thanks for your feedback.
I replaced the gasket on my car as well. Seems to have stopped the oil leak. Only issue is now I'm noticing a gas smell coming from the front of the engine when my car is idling. Not seeing any fuel leaking under the car. Some gas sprayed out of the high pressure fuel pump when I disconnected it, but I'm pretty sure I reconnected everything correctly and I even cleaned around it where the gas sprayed. Has anyone else had this problem after they changed their valve cover gaskets?
The gasket material is from the factory. It's put in the corners of the valve cover. You should have put it back as well
Thanks, good to know. Hope it helps others.
Thanks for this and the really valuable heads up tips. Very helpful. Same car 69k miles. I have a pressure release puff sound after I turn off engine? And oil leaks from the underside of valve cover edge at mid point on the firewall side. Is that just valve cover leak? Anyone else experience that? No codes thrown for air leaks.
I have a slight puff of air sound also but unsure if that’s related to the valve cover or piston compression exhausting as the engine dies. It sounds like a kickstart motorcycle finding top dead center before really kicking it over. It could also be intake forcing air back as it slowly stops drawing air. I’m not too sure. Since I wasn’t concerned about it till you mentioned it. 🫣
Fuel pressure regulator.
From the 14:06 to the 15:09 mark you was muted out
TH-cam copyrighted the music in the background. I was just explaining where to locate a few of the seals, the areas that kept the cover from breaking loose, clean the old gasket areas that are baked on and to take pictures. Nothing in this video requires audio to be honest just the steps in which things need to come off and visuals why. Most of the time I repeat myself to make sure anyone skipping around gets certain parts that I believe are key or critical.
Thanks for informing me though.
If you would've pulled your fuel pump fuse and ran the engine until it cut off you wouldn't of had any fuel to spray out the pump
Yeah that’s an option but a rag works faster, plus it evaporates. Plus unsure if it’s a good idea to run it fuseless since it might pop a code and that’s another thing to deal with.
I could literally assemble the Chevy 350 in my 81 Camaro faster than it takes to remove that valve cover. These modern cars are not “backyard mechanic” friendly…
and that's why they all stay a Back Yard Mechanic
I'm sure this has been said already many times, but just in case... the RTV gasket sealer is factory and make SURE you put it back in all corners or it will leak. Second, most (not all) shops are honest contrary to popular belief and stay plenty busy enough without needing to do anything to "cause you to come back". This would make zero sense at all, if you came back for the same problem they lose money, not make money. Thirdly, your understanding of this procedure is not from first hand experience and it's very apparent.
Never said I was an expert… I was just passing along the information as I fixed my problem. Most of these videos I post are to document my fixes so I have a timeline of what I did, when I done it and how I did it. If it helps others then great, if someone else has additional information then even better….
Everyday I try and learn something new and hopefully help others along the way while fixing my own issues. 🍻
Man I need this done to my car,, im so sick of the burning oil smell!!!
Make sure you get the cover because this was a baked on part and felt sketchy banging on it.
@@ProjectAnubisUSA what all I need to get?
@@spizzle2323 Get the gasket kit and the top plastic valve cover as seen in the picture. Getting everything will give a piece of mind. Also, the stuff took forever to find and sold out everywhere / back-ordered for months at the time of this video hence why I recommend everything just in-case the cover breaks.