vince and marco are the only ones that i just hit the like button at the 1 second of the video , because im sure i will like the video and to not forget to do that. Awesome job and thanks
You’re truly one of the very best youtubers out there. The way you are able to deconstruct your process and lay it out clearly is just invaluable as a learning tool. Thanks a bunch! By the way, if I go by what we observed in our small group of friends (and so with very dodgy statistical validity), I would say you like to put the highlights from the same side your painting with. I’m left-handed and I like my light to come from that side. Obviously, we paint the whole mini and rotate the stuff around, but it’s the first reflex when we pick it up and look at it from the front. I think. Maybe. :)
Thank you Vince 👍 After I tried this, and with those or similar colours, flow-aid and slow-dri, I now paint faces a lot faster than before. And they look a bit better too. 👍
I would like to see this kind of guide for different skin tones - particularly dark. GWs tutorial for instance is basically just paint them rhinox hide, add a shade - which to be fair is how they do caucasian as well (just different paints). I just find it very lacking. A good solid theory of what colours are good for showing shadows, and blending darker skin tones would be awesome. Particularly as you make such clear videos!
Amazing work Vince. I am a decent painter with six 2000 point 40K armies under my belt and I have always found human faces to be my biggest weakness (at least the part of a mini that I'm least happy with). I've watched dozens of tutorials and they all see to have different ideas on how to achieve results along with some similar themes. This helps a lot thanks.
Excellent, happy to help as always. One key to remember is that they could all be right. ONe of the great truism's of miniature painting is that there are many roads that can lead to the same place, it's just about finding the right road for you. :)
Thanks for the video, Sir! Painting Tyranids hasn't given me an opportunity to develop this type of "face" skills, but I now see ways to improve my technique. Thanks!
Re: zenithal highlighting and the sun being directly overhead - the sun is only ever directly overhead if you are in the tropics. The furthest north that the sun is directly overhead is at the Tropic of Cancer on the Summer Solstice, the furthest south is at the Tropic of Capricorn on the Winter Solstice. So it makes perfect sense to zenithal highlight from an angle, unless you're painting something tropical. The sun's overhead position travels north to the Tropic of Cancer where it stops (sol sistere = Latin for sun stands still = solstice) and turns around (trope = Greek for turn around/change direction = tropic), it then travels south to the Tropic Of Capricorn. Rinse & Repeat.
I watched another of your videos yesterday, and you noted that faces should NOT be started with black because it's too hard to get the skin tones to work without a bunch of layers... your zenithal prime here... is it a black base with white/bone over top for the brightest highlights? i also agree, side/angled lighting is WAY more impressive than straight down... makes for some really cool looks as always, thanks Mr Veturella, for yet another excellent lesson!
Wow. Never have I seen such a discrepancy between video and "glory shots" at the end of it in such a reverse way. In the video it looks gorgeous. In the shots it looks like you subtracted 20 years of your experience. Great video and that in the end made me laugh real hard. Your channel is the best.
That video on blue sounds super interesting to me, looking forward to it when you manage to get around to it. Thanks once again for all the time and effort you put into these videos they have helped more than I can put into words.
Could you explain the difference between glazes & filters in a litter more detail. They sound like the same thing. Of course would love to see a Hobby Cheat on that. Great video as always!
I will have to do a HC on filters, but the easiest way to think about it is a filter is much thinner than even a glaze, it's just trying to lightly tint the color underneath, but still be that color. Glazes are a little more powerful and are meant to change the underlying color.
Vince, you are a treasure to the hobby community and your videos have been invaluable in my progression. I love this video. One thing I think I missed - at what point do you work in the Ice Yellow into the mix while blending up the highlights? Love your work. Thanks so much for your help.
Generally at the highest highlights. Where you want that total bright highlight reflecting. You never really (usually) go to pure ice yellow (mostly). ;)
Hey Bud i would love to take one of your Online Classes one day or at the very least commission you to take a look at some of the things im working on and get some ideas about to paint my 28mm Napoleonics. When you do get the website up and running? Can you please get Paypal set up. Thats its because its the only vendor i trust re password and credit card security etc. Theres alot of very talented young fellas with painting Tuts; sadly many of them opt for time lapse and trouble with that is; we cant see the strokes they use with their brushes and how they actually apply the paint. Thats where your tutorials have it all over them; your delivery is fantastic, is laymans enough so us mere mortals (paintwise) actually have a chance to follow your technical terms. I havent as yet watched your face painting tutotial; and i cant wait, as although i understand the basic principles of flesh and highlighting flesh? Sometimes i get it right sometimes i dont. Also could i ask a big favor please? Myself and a few other of my International Wargames Pals; i am situated in Australia and my Buddies are situated in the UK. A common problem we have is "Making the Braid or Lace" on Hussar Uniforms "pop" showing depth and highlight. 28mm is a scale that most of you Fantasy Fellas dont use; could you perhaps do a fantasy Figure that features something like "Braid and lace"please. I have been experimenting with dry brushing the lace, then applying a wash, its not bad but it not in your class and i would love to know how you would attack it. Ive said it before; love your work. Thankyou again Warmest regards; Stew
Thanks for another great video! Your videos on painting flesh/faces have been very helpful and greatly appreciated. Are you working on a video on how to paint tanned flesh?
Hi Vince! I would have 2 topics for you. Now that we have 2 tutorials for faces (with oils and with acrylics) - actually, I think you even have more, what is your personal go-to for this? Do you start with oils? Does it cut the time for you or is the time saved in the painting lost in the setup & tear down of the oil-related stuff? The other topic is more related to what you said about Warhammer faces. I am having a hard time seeing anything but "serious, focused" facial expressions in Warhammer, except for when I get to see "rage" on people who are either fighting or charging. Would you help me up' my image of it by directing my eyes onto 40K miniatures that have more varied expressions? Thanks for the video! I look forward to the shadows-related one, as I really find this fascinating. We already have quite a few pieces of info (from the colors episodes, and from a number of paint jobs you shared too) but I still like an in-depth discussion of such a great topic. I personally love going for dark purple for this, or then straight to desaturating the base color. I look forward to hearing what I'm missing in the vast world of colors! ;-)
I often like starting with oils and then doing the acrylics or additional oils (or both) over top. As to different faces, I will openly admit to not being an expert on the entire 40k range, but I think when you look at faces like the demons of Slaanesh, the necromunda characters, or the eldar of either flavor, they have some interesting detailed faces with decent expressions to explore.
In what situations would you include eyes into the equation? When they're more prominently sculpted or when the facial features are less ridged and recessed? (Assuming you're going for higher than tabletop quality).
Honestly, asoften as you can. I would paint the eyes anytime I am not going for a speed paint, doing it will force you to practice, I did end up painting the yes on this guy, but I will return to eyes in the future.
Oh, i ghetto the shit out of my face painting. I use contrast paints, and then go back over it with thin highlights. And then do purple/red shades in the recesses. I'm more going for speed, though.
Vince, your videos and replies have been instrumental in helping me push my technique. I'm still mostly using citadel, but I'm branching out. I've followed along the technique in this video with the standard reikland/bugmans/cadian/Kislev GW flesh paints, but I'm getting a very tanned looking face. If I wanted to go for very fair skin (practicing my way to sanguinis) along the lines of renaissance paintings of St. Michael, what paints would you recommend using?
So I have a few videos on fair skin tone, but pushing into something like Beige Red from vallejo and bringing it up with a bright ivory will give you the base for very fair skin (which has a lot of pink).
Stupid question of the day... how/what exactly are you using to hold the head for painting? Looks like cork and maybe a paperclip? Did you glue the head on? Thanks!
Yep, jut a pin drill up into the bottom of the neck, run a paper clip up, cut it and glue it in there. Then that is stuck into a cork from an old wine bottle.
Sorry to be three years late to the party. When you did the first part laying down the wet paint to sketch out the initial highlights ,what kind of consistency of paint were you working with? Do you consider this to be more like wet blending with thick paint or more like layering?
Bugman's Glow from GW, Beige Red from Vallejo, Ice Yellow from Scale 75 and Olive Flesh from Pro Acryl, but you don't need those exact paints, any colors in similar tones from any range will work fine.
Hello Vince! Watching this vid and revisiting the exploring color series. I was wondering which paints would you recommend for going the next step on blending. I remember you saying that Scale75 and Warcolours are great for that because of the gel medium, but I don't see you using them a lot on your videos. What's your stance now on those and again which would you recommend for high level blending? Thanks!
I still use them quite a bit, and for those purposes. If you were going to go farther, it would be more refinement of the details, more setting of the lighting and more light filters of various hues. So for example, some more glazes of maybe a Warcolours brown glaze for more tan, more light red filters in some places, adding a little subtle blue for facial stubble, those sorts of things.
So I've been asking myself for some time now: How the hel do you mix your paints on the wet palette without wasting tons of paint that your brush picks up and you cant get out without rinsing? Do i need to use a smaller brush for mixing?
Well, if you are using dropper bottles, you just put them on there, if you are using pots, you use the back of your brush. But ultimately my advice is this, don't worry about wasting paint. It seems like a thing, but really, it's just part of the hobby. Between what's on the palette, what's in your water brush, what's on your wipey napkin - there will always be some extra paint. It's fine, it's part of the hobby. In the end, you use such small amounts of paint. I have painted more than most and I paint about 40-60 hours a week, and I still have bottles of paint I have used consistently for 6 years.
how do you go about doing an open mouth. I’m working on a primaris Sargent and he has a helmet on his side so I went with the no helm option and man. The body has turned out to be one of, if not the best miniatures I’ve painted but I’ve taken the paint off it about 15 times because I keep messing the mouth up!!
So short answer on small miniatures, you take a desaturated purple (if you don't have that, mix some purple with brown), you shove it all in there all around. Then you mix in just a little red to that mix and you do the tongue. Then lastly you paint any teeth in a standard way.
Since this is something where you use retarder and do a lot of blending, would oils be well suited to faces? On one hand they're a detailed area where acrylics are usually nice, but the technique seems perfect for oils.
Yes, though when they are small like this, it can be hard to really use them for the small details. I like to get the initial blend with them on the face and then use acryllics to refine.
Suggestion for future video: Overbrushing, I know of only one single video tutorial that explains the "how to" somewhat decently. I don't know a single tutorial about the "When to". There are so many tutorials on drybrushing, but barely any on overbrushing. Is this something noone ver does, or why is this? Especially usefull would be tips how to blend after the overbrushing.
Don't know what movie you're quoting, but I can tell you that whatever Old Testament or Talmud based legend about the philtrum was likely copied from one of the many myths about the Greek god Harpocrates, the god of silence. He was given a rose by Eros to keep Eros' mother's indiscretions quiet. Hence whenever things are done in secrecy to this very day, they are often said to be done sub rosa, i.e. "under the rose". Harpocrates was often depicted holding his index finger up to his philtrum in several sculptures from the ancient world, both in Greece and Ptolemaic Egypt.
How long did the whole process took you? Because the last time I painted a face, it took me 4 hours (more or less), it was a female face, and I was unable to get the right expression. In the end, I had to clean it up and start again, but managed to somehow achieve what I was looking for.
I use these right here for small details - www.amazon.com/dp/B07T4KPYN2/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&aaxitk=GUbcDw8yTrK2fG-XJ0ORjQ&hsa_cr_id=8208511750901&pd_rd_plhdr=t&pd_rd_r=fd36b57d-8be4-450b-a459-e7252b882051&pd_rd_w=gpfD9&pd_rd_wg=JruRn&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_mcd_asin_0_title
@@VinceVenturella thanks Vince. I look forward to it. The eyes are hit and miss for me. When the sculpt has narrow eyes, I often have trouble making them look decent.
A very small amount of retarder, basically just a little bit that's in the brush. It's mixed very much by sight, but basically just a small amount will have a large effect. I know that's not exact but I hope it helps.
Interesting...do you also thin with water when you use retarder- or matt medium? It seems to already thin the paint. I find that the paint thins down fast after a while on the wet pallette
For any piece I always do the eyes. The best way to get better at eyes is just to force yourself to do it like 1000 times. Now if I am speed painting an army, I would likely skip it, but most of the time I will do it. That was 2 pots of bugmans plus a little flow improver in the bottle.
How would you vary when painting black faces? The problem I usually run into is that the brightest highlights looks way too extreme. My most recent attempt I aimed for more warm colours and avoided the highest highlights but it ends looking quite...almost underhighlighted, if you're not looking closely. i.ibb.co/ZJBZ4CT/IMG-1911.jpg
I would follow most of the same process, I am actually going to do some videos on other skin colors in the future, so you'll see it in action, but the key is you do still need to push the contrast.
@@VinceVenturella Ok, looking forward to it. I think my approach here was very conservative, it's hard to make it look bad but was never going to look great. I've had some luck in the past using dark greens as my shadow colour but haven't found a colour I like for the bright colour.
DO you mean specific or brand? In general, I use a wide selection of paints, but the specific paints aren't too necessary. The key is just working with any similar tones or even tones you like. :)
Great video. You produce this magic so casually. I'm jealous. Ever considered doing commission work? I would so pay you to paint just 10 heads for my Custodes. Not joking here btw.
The groove on the upper lip is called the philtrum
or if your a girl and doing make up they call it the Cupid's bow.
@@simplyminipainting The philtrum and the Cupid's bow is not the same, though.
Awesome, thank you. :)
I'm always impressed how a such tiny face can get so realistic! Amazing paint job 👏
Thank you very much!
vince and marco are the only ones that i just hit the like button at the 1 second of the video , because im sure i will like the video and to not forget to do that.
Awesome job and thanks
Thank you, that means a great deal. :)
You’re truly one of the very best youtubers out there. The way you are able to deconstruct your process and lay it out clearly is just invaluable as a learning tool. Thanks a bunch!
By the way, if I go by what we observed in our small group of friends (and so with very dodgy statistical validity), I would say you like to put the highlights from the same side your painting with. I’m left-handed and I like my light to come from that side. Obviously, we paint the whole mini and rotate the stuff around, but it’s the first reflex when we pick it up and look at it from the front. I think. Maybe. :)
That's exactly what I wanted to comment. The light is easier to paint when it comes from the same direction as our brush.
Yeah, I think that's exactly right, as I am right handed I think I just favor that side.
Thank you Vince 👍 After I tried this, and with those or similar colours, flow-aid and slow-dri, I now paint faces a lot faster than before. And they look a bit better too. 👍
Great to hear! Happy to help. :)
"The Prophecy" with Christopher Walken is the movie you were quoting vince. I'm a movie trivia nerd.
That is exactly right.
I would like to see this kind of guide for different skin tones - particularly dark. GWs tutorial for instance is basically just paint them rhinox hide, add a shade - which to be fair is how they do caucasian as well (just different paints). I just find it very lacking. A good solid theory of what colours are good for showing shadows, and blending darker skin tones would be awesome. Particularly as you make such clear videos!
Plz Vince dark skin
Thank you.
Yep, we will be doing some additional skin tones in the future.
@@VinceVenturella thank you
@@VinceVenturella YES :D
Your instruction videos are really the easiest to follow and to understand on youtube.
Thank you, very much appreciated.
Amazing work Vince. I am a decent painter with six 2000 point 40K armies under my belt and I have always found human faces to be my biggest weakness (at least the part of a mini that I'm least happy with). I've watched dozens of tutorials and they all see to have different ideas on how to achieve results along with some similar themes. This helps a lot thanks.
Excellent, happy to help as always. One key to remember is that they could all be right. ONe of the great truism's of miniature painting is that there are many roads that can lead to the same place, it's just about finding the right road for you. :)
Channeling a bit of Trent Denison there at 9:15. A+ mate!
Great video as always Vince. Thank you so much for your tireless and inspiring work.
Glad you enjoyed it :)
Thanks for the video, Sir! Painting Tyranids hasn't given me an opportunity to develop this type of "face" skills, but I now see ways to improve my technique. Thanks!
Glad to help
The tip to buy bit heads to practice is brilliant
Always happy to help. :)
Gabriel to the little girl in 'Prophecy'. Your videos have made me go back over minis to tighten and clean up and make them more characterful.
You are exactly correct.
Re: zenithal highlighting and the sun being directly overhead - the sun is only ever directly overhead if you are in the tropics. The furthest north that the sun is directly overhead is at the Tropic of Cancer on the Summer Solstice, the furthest south is at the Tropic of Capricorn on the Winter Solstice. So it makes perfect sense to zenithal highlight from an angle, unless you're painting something tropical. The sun's overhead position travels north to the Tropic of Cancer where it stops (sol sistere = Latin for sun stands still = solstice) and turns around (trope = Greek for turn around/change direction = tropic), it then travels south to the Tropic Of Capricorn. Rinse & Repeat.
That is an amazingly detailed and wonderful explanation. :)
Would love to see your shadow video, its been a topic that has alluded me for a long time.
Coming soon!
Another astounding video, thank you Vince!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I watched another of your videos yesterday, and you noted that faces should NOT be started with black because it's too hard to get the skin tones to work without a bunch of layers...
your zenithal prime here... is it a black base with white/bone over top for the brightest highlights?
i also agree, side/angled lighting is WAY more impressive than straight down... makes for some really cool looks
as always, thanks Mr Veturella, for yet another excellent lesson!
Dark grey and ivory over top.
Currently painting Primaris Ragnar Blackmane. Will definitelly use those tips for his face (though I kind of botched his eyes...)! Great video!
Happy to help as always. :)
Wow. Never have I seen such a discrepancy between video and "glory shots" at the end of it in such a reverse way. In the video it looks gorgeous. In the shots it looks like you subtracted 20 years of your experience.
Great video and that in the end made me laugh real hard. Your channel is the best.
Yeah, that picture really let me down, I should have just used clips from the video. :)
That video on blue sounds super interesting to me, looking forward to it when you manage to get around to it. Thanks once again for all the time and effort you put into these videos they have helped more than I can put into words.
Sure thing!
Could you explain the difference between glazes & filters in a litter more detail. They sound like the same thing. Of course would love to see a Hobby Cheat on that. Great video as always!
I will have to do a HC on filters, but the easiest way to think about it is a filter is much thinner than even a glaze, it's just trying to lightly tint the color underneath, but still be that color. Glazes are a little more powerful and are meant to change the underlying color.
Vince, you are a treasure to the hobby community and your videos have been invaluable in my progression. I love this video. One thing I think I missed - at what point do you work in the Ice Yellow into the mix while blending up the highlights?
Love your work. Thanks so much for your help.
Generally at the highest highlights. Where you want that total bright highlight reflecting. You never really (usually) go to pure ice yellow (mostly). ;)
Vince Venturella thank you, master V!
The divot in the top lip is called the philtrum. The movie quote comes from The Prophecy.
You nailed it on both accounts. :)
This is the best looking face on TH-cam. Better than Duncan's
Hey Bud i would love to take one of your Online Classes one day or at the very least commission you to take a look at some of the things im working on and get some ideas about to paint my 28mm Napoleonics. When you do get the website up and running? Can you please get Paypal set up. Thats its because its the only vendor i trust re password and credit card security etc.
Theres alot of very talented young fellas with painting Tuts; sadly many of them opt for time lapse and trouble with that is; we cant see the strokes they use with their brushes and how they actually apply the paint. Thats where your tutorials have it all over them; your delivery is fantastic, is laymans enough so us mere mortals (paintwise) actually have a chance to follow your technical terms. I havent as yet watched your face painting tutotial; and i cant wait, as although i understand the basic principles of flesh and highlighting flesh? Sometimes i get it right sometimes i dont.
Also could i ask a big favor please? Myself and a few other of my International Wargames Pals; i am situated in Australia and my Buddies are situated in the UK.
A common problem we have is "Making the Braid or Lace" on Hussar Uniforms "pop" showing depth and highlight. 28mm is a scale that most of you Fantasy Fellas dont use; could you perhaps do a fantasy Figure that features something like "Braid and lace"please. I have been experimenting with dry brushing the lace, then applying a wash, its not bad but it not in your class and i would love to know how you would attack it.
Ive said it before; love your work. Thankyou again
Warmest regards; Stew
Thank you for all of that, and I will see if I can find a figure that fits the bill for a future video. :)
Thanks for another great video! Your videos on painting flesh/faces have been very helpful and greatly appreciated. Are you working on a video on how to paint tanned flesh?
I am actually going to cover a lot of flesh tones going forward in some future videos.
@@VinceVenturella Sounds great, I look forward to watching these videos, thanks!
Hi Vince! I would have 2 topics for you.
Now that we have 2 tutorials for faces (with oils and with acrylics) - actually, I think you even have more, what is your personal go-to for this? Do you start with oils? Does it cut the time for you or is the time saved in the painting lost in the setup & tear down of the oil-related stuff?
The other topic is more related to what you said about Warhammer faces. I am having a hard time seeing anything but "serious, focused" facial expressions in Warhammer, except for when I get to see "rage" on people who are either fighting or charging. Would you help me up' my image of it by directing my eyes onto 40K miniatures that have more varied expressions?
Thanks for the video! I look forward to the shadows-related one, as I really find this fascinating. We already have quite a few pieces of info (from the colors episodes, and from a number of paint jobs you shared too) but I still like an in-depth discussion of such a great topic. I personally love going for dark purple for this, or then straight to desaturating the base color. I look forward to hearing what I'm missing in the vast world of colors! ;-)
I often like starting with oils and then doing the acrylics or additional oils (or both) over top. As to different faces, I will openly admit to not being an expert on the entire 40k range, but I think when you look at faces like the demons of Slaanesh, the necromunda characters, or the eldar of either flavor, they have some interesting detailed faces with decent expressions to explore.
10:30 Probably because it's easier to paint the right side for a right-handed person. At least it feels so for myself.
I think that's exactly right.
It is... I'm left-handed and my miniatures look better on their right side... :P
Very interesting video. The one i was waiting for...
Glad you liked it!
Great work, looks brilliant!
Glad you like it!
In what situations would you include eyes into the equation? When they're more prominently sculpted or when the facial features are less ridged and recessed? (Assuming you're going for higher than tabletop quality).
Honestly, asoften as you can. I would paint the eyes anytime I am not going for a speed paint, doing it will force you to practice, I did end up painting the yes on this guy, but I will return to eyes in the future.
Great to see something that seems so daunting broken down so well into doable steps.
Glad it was helpful!
Another great video, thanks Vince!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video Vince! Thank you for your work man.
Glad you liked it!
Vince please do this with a dark skin tone!
I see so many white space Marines rarely any other complexion!
Thank you Vince 🙏
Yes, please!
Seconded! (or fourthed, I guess). Dark complexions are difficult to do, but really our mini world could do with more variety!
@@alfyb4512
Could it though? I get the feeling you're just here to whine.
Oh, i ghetto the shit out of my face painting. I use contrast paints, and then go back over it with thin highlights. And then do purple/red shades in the recesses. I'm more going for speed, though.
That's perfectly fine, honestly, if you're going for speed and looking at the army, it will all work fine.
Vince, your videos and replies have been instrumental in helping me push my technique. I'm still mostly using citadel, but I'm branching out. I've followed along the technique in this video with the standard reikland/bugmans/cadian/Kislev GW flesh paints, but I'm getting a very tanned looking face. If I wanted to go for very fair skin (practicing my way to sanguinis) along the lines of renaissance paintings of St. Michael, what paints would you recommend using?
So I have a few videos on fair skin tone, but pushing into something like Beige Red from vallejo and bringing it up with a bright ivory will give you the base for very fair skin (which has a lot of pink).
@@VinceVenturella thanks!
The movie you referenced was the Prophecy with Christopher Walkin
You are exactly right. :)
as always awesome. You are one of the best things that happened to this hobby. Wish you the best of lucks teacher
Thank you very much!
Would be very interested in the video about shadow colours!
It will be coming, we are going to get into all shadows.
Awww I was hoping for eyes tricks. :(
Don't worry, we are going to do the eyes as their own video in the future.
Stupid question of the day... how/what exactly are you using to hold the head for painting? Looks like cork and maybe a paperclip? Did you glue the head on? Thanks!
Yep, jut a pin drill up into the bottom of the neck, run a paper clip up, cut it and glue it in there. Then that is stuck into a cork from an old wine bottle.
Sorry to be three years late to the party. When you did the first part laying down the wet paint to sketch out the initial highlights ,what kind of consistency of paint were you working with? Do you consider this to be more like wet blending with thick paint or more like layering?
More like wet blending, little thicker.
Hi Vince , great video , do you have a comprehensive list of the paints you used in this video please? Thanks
Bugman's Glow from GW, Beige Red from Vallejo, Ice Yellow from Scale 75 and Olive Flesh from Pro Acryl, but you don't need those exact paints, any colors in similar tones from any range will work fine.
Thank you for sharing
My pleasure
I think Vallejo Beige Red is Citadel Bestigor Flesh
Hello Vince!
Watching this vid and revisiting the exploring color series. I was wondering which paints would you recommend for going the next step on blending. I remember you saying that Scale75 and Warcolours are great for that because of the gel medium, but I don't see you using them a lot on your videos. What's your stance now on those and again which would you recommend for high level blending?
Thanks!
I still use them quite a bit, and for those purposes. If you were going to go farther, it would be more refinement of the details, more setting of the lighting and more light filters of various hues. So for example, some more glazes of maybe a Warcolours brown glaze for more tan, more light red filters in some places, adding a little subtle blue for facial stubble, those sorts of things.
Very helpful. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
So I've been asking myself for some time now: How the hel do you mix your paints on the wet palette without wasting tons of paint that your brush picks up and you cant get out without rinsing?
Do i need to use a smaller brush for mixing?
I'd actually really like to hear people's opinions on this too.
Well, if you are using dropper bottles, you just put them on there, if you are using pots, you use the back of your brush. But ultimately my advice is this, don't worry about wasting paint. It seems like a thing, but really, it's just part of the hobby. Between what's on the palette, what's in your water brush, what's on your wipey napkin - there will always be some extra paint. It's fine, it's part of the hobby. In the end, you use such small amounts of paint. I have painted more than most and I paint about 40-60 hours a week, and I still have bottles of paint I have used consistently for 6 years.
Any way to zoom in closer to the models? Sorry i watch it on my fablet . I dont have a tv at home to watch your amazing videos .
This is about as close as I can generally get, but I will see what I can do.
how do you go about doing an open mouth. I’m working on a primaris Sargent and he has a helmet on his side so I went with the no helm option and man. The body has turned out to be one of, if not the best miniatures I’ve painted but I’ve taken the paint off it about 15 times because I keep messing the mouth up!!
So short answer on small miniatures, you take a desaturated purple (if you don't have that, mix some purple with brown), you shove it all in there all around. Then you mix in just a little red to that mix and you do the tongue. Then lastly you paint any teeth in a standard way.
Thank you for the video!!!
Welcome!
Since this is something where you use retarder and do a lot of blending, would oils be well suited to faces? On one hand they're a detailed area where acrylics are usually nice, but the technique seems perfect for oils.
Yes, though when they are small like this, it can be hard to really use them for the small details. I like to get the initial blend with them on the face and then use acryllics to refine.
Suggestion for future video: Overbrushing, I know of only one single video tutorial that explains the "how to" somewhat decently. I don't know a single tutorial about the "When to". There are so many tutorials on drybrushing, but barely any on overbrushing. Is this something noone ver does, or why is this? Especially usefull would be tips how to blend after the overbrushing.
It's really just some heavy dry brushing, I know Dr. Faust does it a lot, but I can look into it.
Don't know what movie you're quoting, but I can tell you that whatever Old Testament or Talmud based legend about the philtrum was likely copied from one of the many myths about the Greek god Harpocrates, the god of silence. He was given a rose by Eros to keep Eros' mother's indiscretions quiet. Hence whenever things are done in secrecy to this very day, they are often said to be done sub rosa, i.e. "under the rose". Harpocrates was often depicted holding his index finger up to his philtrum in several sculptures from the ancient world, both in Greece and Ptolemaic Egypt.
Nice, great bit of history, someone else pointed out it was The Prophecy.
amazing !
A bit off topic question, but which product includes the head from the video?
I wish I could tell you. I have a giant bits box of space marine parts I've collected over the years, this is one of those extra heads. :)
Now my bald ranger Minsc is staring at me...
Well, now you have a good option hopefully.
Another great vid Vince. What is that holding the head?
Just a paper clip I drilled up into the bottom of the neck.
But vince what about stubble? Also any tips on giving marines hair texture when they usually come with a high top fade?
Check Hobby Cheating 242, “Facial Stubble”. Vince mentions you can use that same video for the pate.
Yep, exactly that video will take you through how.
Thanks
where is the vid with the beard shadow and head/hair stopples? :)
Right here - th-cam.com/video/wLl_aeRt0jk/w-d-xo.html
Hey Vince! Great video as always! When do you do your next live hobby cheating QA? Thank you! -Jakub
It will be next weekend, Saturday specifically. :)
How long did the whole process took you?
Because the last time I painted a face, it took me 4 hours (more or less), it was a female face, and I was unable to get the right expression. In the end, I had to clean it up and start again, but managed to somehow achieve what I was looking for.
All told, this was maybe 45-60 minutes of work, but I have painted a lot of faces and much of that comes with time.
@@VinceVenturella Thank you Vince, I'll keep on practicing those tricky faces.
Oh, you use magnifiers? Is there a video about them? U usually use them or just for particular stuff?
No video, I just basically use them for final details on tiny areas (like faces) and to finish off details on competition pieces.
@@VinceVenturella maybe you can do a video/review of the ones you use
What magnifiers do you use? Are they special glasses?
I use these right here for small details - www.amazon.com/dp/B07T4KPYN2/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&aaxitk=GUbcDw8yTrK2fG-XJ0ORjQ&hsa_cr_id=8208511750901&pd_rd_plhdr=t&pd_rd_r=fd36b57d-8be4-450b-a459-e7252b882051&pd_rd_w=gpfD9&pd_rd_wg=JruRn&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_mcd_asin_0_title
@@VinceVenturella thanks, these look great and the price point is good too!
geat vid. could you do other ethnicities in later videos?
mrchoochoohead yes! Seconded!
Yes please Vince this
Yep, I have several plans for other skin tones in the future as well as a full break down.
what if you do not own war paints at all ?
Any brand of paints will work, you can certainly use any other brand and get the same effect.
I have a dumb question, what about the eyes?
I do them afterwards, I am going to try to record a good video in the future on doing eyes on such a small figure. :)
@@VinceVenturella thanks Vince. I look forward to it. The eyes are hit and miss for me. When the sculpt has narrow eyes, I often have trouble making them look decent.
Hi Vince. What ratio of retarder to paint do you use ? Can you make an estimate ?
A very small amount of retarder, basically just a little bit that's in the brush. It's mixed very much by sight, but basically just a small amount will have a large effect. I know that's not exact but I hope it helps.
Interesting...do you also thin with water when you use retarder- or matt medium? It seems to already thin the paint. I find that the paint thins down fast after a while on the wet pallette
So knowing dermatology would help in face painting? Not trying to be funny. Would it help?
It very much would.
I assume that for a competition piece you would do the eyes? Or do you leave it like that? And how many Bugman's pots did you put in that bottle?
For any piece I always do the eyes. The best way to get better at eyes is just to force yourself to do it like 1000 times. Now if I am speed painting an army, I would likely skip it, but most of the time I will do it. That was 2 pots of bugmans plus a little flow improver in the bottle.
How would you vary when painting black faces? The problem I usually run into is that the brightest highlights looks way too extreme.
My most recent attempt I aimed for more warm colours and avoided the highest highlights but it ends looking quite...almost underhighlighted, if you're not looking closely.
i.ibb.co/ZJBZ4CT/IMG-1911.jpg
I would follow most of the same process, I am actually going to do some videos on other skin colors in the future, so you'll see it in action, but the key is you do still need to push the contrast.
@@VinceVenturella Ok, looking forward to it. I think my approach here was very conservative, it's hard to make it look bad but was never going to look great. I've had some luck in the past using dark greens as my shadow colour but haven't found a colour I like for the bright colour.
Paints using?
DO you mean specific or brand? In general, I use a wide selection of paints, but the specific paints aren't too necessary. The key is just working with any similar tones or even tones you like. :)
Great video. You produce this magic so casually. I'm jealous. Ever considered doing commission work? I would so pay you to paint just 10 heads for my Custodes. Not joking here btw.
No, unfortuantely, I have too much other stuff to work on to do commissions. :)
😊
👍👍
Thank you. :)
Love it, but what about darker skin? Too many white faces in this game,,,
Yes! More POC
I'll be revisiting lots of different flesh colors soon. :)