Hobby Cheating 243 - How to Paint Distressed Leather
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- In this Hobby Cheating Tutorial, I take you through my simple methods for painting high distressed leather. This is a really fun and relaxing technique that is really all about pushing paint around randomly and seeing what happens to get natural textures. It's great because you can't really mess it up! Hope you enjoy.
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"Think about your taxes" :) :) :) Good one, Vince, as always!
Always happy to help. :)
Many whelps! Left side!
WHO IS IN THE WHELPS! ;)
Really good video! A few pieces of advice as a leatherworker (and as someone who has worn this style of leggings):
1) While leather on a garment will weather uniformly, the base leathers may not be uniform in color. It doesn't have to be drastic, but when base coating the leathers, add in a bit of yellow on one hide, rust on another, even some darker brown tones. This is because, in the tanning process, chemical reactions create unique colorations (not to mention the color of the skin prior to tanning).
2) It would be hard to do on this model based on where the stitching is, but you will also get stretch marks in the leather parallel to the thigh. This happens from the leather being stretched when the figure sits or kneels. Speaking of kneeling, knees tend to be some of the first parts of leggings to get damaged. The trick is that the wear patterns are well below the kneecap on a standing model since kneeling causes the legging to ride up.
Just a could observations from first hand experience! ☺
Fantasitic tips, I love all of this. This guy couldn't do the new trick as much (as those are worn through on this model, which I suppose supports your point). ;)
@@VinceVenturella You're welcome! This was a great video and simulated worn leather better than any other video I've seen!
@@VinceVenturella I also used the wrong term: the stretch marks would be perpendicular to the thigh.
Wonderful tutorial, as always! Thank you very much!
Glad you liked it!
Thank your for this series. I have been working on improving my mini-addiction for a while now, and your Hobby Cheating videos are exactly what I'm looking for, often exactly too. I have them grouped and bookmarked into categories so that when I need to do black distressed leather I have to watch 37 videos on leather, I just open up your playlists and look for the techniques I need. The instructions are clear and the camera shows me what I actually want to see, the paint, no offence to your face but I'm not that interested.
Thanks again, and I'll be catching up on about 4 years worth of videos now to learn some more good tech.
Thank you, I am glad to help and always happy to answer questions. :)
On his top right part of his belly there is something that looks a bit rough. I often have these textures on my minis. Here, I don't know if it is a vein or this odd texture that shows up from time to time. Any idea on how I can avoid it? Thanks for all your work, your contribution to this hobby is unparalleled!
I assume you mean the area right under the armpit? I could be mistaken, but judging by the video it actually looks as if there might have been a seam line there after assembly which was filled with something (presumably an epoxy putty of some sort); so my guess would be the wrinkling and texture is actually from areas where the putty was applied since, when it comes to skin, you can easily get away with not carefully smoothing out putty work (and some might even argue that it looks more natural if you don't do so).
Yes, I think in this case it was a seam line that I had filled and forgot to properly file all the way down, the simplest answer for that (and what I should have done) is to get some 400-1000 grit sandpaper and make sure you smooth that stuff out.
Vince, I want to do coloured leather - specifically blue. To be the most successful would you suggest starting with a brown tone and then glazing with blue, or would a blue starting point with some warmer glazes be better?
I was wondering about this too!
So this is an interesting question and since I'm a leather worker I might be able to shed some light. Hides can be tanned via one of two methods; vegetable tannins and chemicals such as mercury. For the purposes of garments, you'd most likely use vegetable tanned leather (a.k.a. veg-tan), especially if you were intending to add any kind of tooling (stamping, carving, etc.). Veg-tan leather begins as a light beige/buff sort of color and because its so light when you dye it (especially with darker tones like blue) that dye really penetrates and you have to do some pretty serious damage to the leather to see any hint of the underlying original color. So if I were to approach this idea of dyed blue leather that's been worn I would minimize any use of brown tones (in all likelihood I'd avoid them entirely, but that's my preference); people are familiar enough with dyed leather that simply by replicating the weathering and damage it should still read to the eye as leather even though its blue. Depending on how dark a shade of blue you were thinking of, you could even experiment with adding a little purple in here and there; then its just a matter of shifting your color palette for this technique away from brown and replacing it with blue inks and washes.
I am going to default to Runesmythe's answer here, that kind of real world experience is beyond me and I think his advice is dead on.
TheRunesmythe thanks so much for the detailed response! Going to try it out on something this week.
Would this process work with wings. Like Warcry Chimera or a dragon to create a membrane style pattern?
Also, instead of leather, using watered down Createx inks and Warcolours transparents, to dye blue/red/green wings?
I am trying to incorporate the colors of Nurgle, Tzeentch and Khorne.
Sorry, long question. If so, any tips on for the brighter colors and this method?
Funny you should ask, the technique is quite similar, but I have a video specifically on it - th-cam.com/video/s8WjoL08fdk/w-d-xo.html
It's an earlier video, so please forgive the production quality, but the techniques should still help.
Another great hobby cheating Vince, this may get lost in the aether but ill ask anyway - would this technique be applicable for leather straps such as those on Mournfangs and Stonehorn / Thundertusks or is there a more appropriate technique for leather strapping someone can reccomend?
So with smaller leather straps, it's harder to do. Here is my normal technique, I give them a solid base color, I run a light glaze through the middle of the strap of a slightly darker color. I then edge the strap in a lighter color but with a stippling method. I will add this to the list of future videos.
Hi Vince! How would you approach small leather belts (approx 2 mm wide) that have no real texture and are molded flat and boring? I have a bunch of plastic miniatures with belts around their hips that need an interesting boost in appearance... Thanx-a-lot!
So I stipple the tops and bottoms of the belt, occasionally drawing the stipples into hashes to simulate wear and cracking. Then glaze in a dark color in the center of the belt. If you want to go all the way, I then glaze a brown over everything as here and I then restipple the edges (again, as here)
@@VinceVenturella Thank you! Will try again, perhaps I will need more patience... ;-)
I thought leather would only be distressed if worn by a slaneesh character. Distressed leather is new to me. In the UK we usually use the term 'cracked leather'.
I live in the UK, I'm aware of 'distressed' I would go as far as to say it's in common use. It's often used to describe deliberately aged clothing, distressed denim and leather is a term used alot by clothing retailers.
@@Goza80 never heard of it in my lifetime. I've heard of 'worn denim' or 'worn leather' or 'scuffed leather' but never 'distressed' ! I've heard of 'torn' or 'threadbare' / 'tattered' cloth'.
Just Google it, theres many retailers selling distressed leather such as sofas, jackets, shoes. It means 'aged' looking not necessarily cracked or torn
Well, happily this technique should work no matter your choice of adjective. ;)
any WoW players that giggled at 8:01 ?? hehe
50 DKP MINUS !
Always happy when the references land with folks. :)
@@VinceVenturella That one was a very well received landmine!
And STOP DOTs!
I am off...to rescue some Leather in Distress :D
Yeah, you have to watch out, it's very easily scared, poor leather.
One sure indicator that my Vince-training is progressing well: my brain is automatically attaching the unsaid “lemon-squeezy” when the easy-peasy comment comes around 😁
Excellent, it just rolls off my tongue at this point, glad to hear that is spreading.
Hahaha the "fun huh?" Had me in stitches (pun intended)
As long as you weren't distressed. ;)
Channeling my inner frustration to help with a stabbing motion. Who knew that this had more than one purpose? Great video as usual brother. I’m definitely try this on my wolfy Mc Wolferton army’s leather bits.
Sure, any sort of worn leather this is a great tactic and it's very stress releaving.
>Makes video about painting distressed leather
>Uses none of his Scale 75 leather paints
Yep, I'm impressed.
Yeah, my distressed leather recipe is shockingly lacking many things with leather in the title, but my skin recipes use them almost constantly. Ironic.
I've just gotten into the hobby. Started 2 weeks ago and I'm about to turn 45. One thing I think to myself when painting is that "It only needs to look realistic, and it does not need to look like real life." Sounds silly, but for me, that makes it much easier to get my head around.
Great motto!
Greetings, Mr. Venturella. I am a fan of your work. Why are craft paints coarse to the touch when compared to miniatures paints? No matter if I apply multiple, thin coats when using craft paints, the outcome seems kind of gritty. Why would that be? Thank you.
It's the pigment. Craft paints have a large pigment, they aren't ground as fine (the pigment quality and the refinement is what costs money and hence makes craft paints cheap. They are low quality pigments and not highly refined).
The key is miniature paints are made for the purpose. I know they can seem expensive, but there is a real difference in quality and they are worth having a good set.
I absolutely agree about the tide marks. Whenever I do either leather or wood grain effects, I invite tide marks. Go out of my way to intentionally get them. They make a great random visual road map Which I use to further build up the effects. Spot on man! You get an amen from me 👍
Yep, the chaos and the random markings are a feature, not a bug. :)
Vince, when I've run out of ideas and I need some inspiration I know where to go. Thanks for this vid' it has helped me move along with my current project.
Happy to help!
Vince you sounded a lot like Bob Ross today. So great. Happy painting and god bless.
Thank you, always the highest of compliments. :)
I've got a Mega gargant that I attempted to paint the cloth in grey but now I'm interested in trying this out for sure! What base colour would you put down before applying the contrast paint? Zenithal unfortunately isn't an option as I've painted the rest of the model and am happy with that.
Just stipple like this, but do it in both ivory and a dark brown/black, then put the transparent layer over. :)
I don't know if this was a good video or not ! I gave up ...you need a job on the radio ..you talk enough ...
Sorry if it was too long, I have tried recently to shorten the videos in new form and I have a video on leather coming soon, hope it works better for you.
Hi Vince was just wondering if you have a video about bronze nmm.
I have Copper, for Bronze, you would just subtract most of the orange and replace with a red earth color - th-cam.com/video/aLmu6wyO6Wo/w-d-xo.html
I get a really glossy effect after doing this. I'm diluting GW shades with Vallejo airbrush thinner. Does flow improver give a more Matt finish?
It’s the airbrush thinner that is doing it yes, lots of additives will add a shine, the key is to just give it a good ultra matte coat afterward.
@@VinceVenturella I certainly wasn't expecting a reply from the Sensei! Thank you very much for the insight, I've since received some AK Ultra Matt varnish and will be giving it a go this evening
Hi Vince, what's your thoughts on using Vallejo metal colour as a primer on miniatures covered in armour? It applies so thinly and doesn't fill in the detail I thought it could be a great option.
Yeah, I think you certainly could, but I generally like at least a thin primer layer through the airbrush, but it would probably work.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks, i'll try it out.
26:27 please tell me that was a transfer and not some insanity freehand. ^^'
How many times did you repeat the process to achieve the finished fig? Looks awesome :)
It's freehand, you can see me do the tattoo here - th-cam.com/video/w0K3ReBIzR0/w-d-xo.html
@@VinceVenturella You are an animal haha.
I tried to do the worn leather on the scraps of clothing on the kruel boy gut rippaz. In a dark red.. I wanted to get a kind of yellow/orange marks for the wear and tear. It didn't really come out very well but my painting is still in it's infancy. Going to try again on another soon.
Hey Vince, where did you get the two paint from proagill or what are brand name of then and really looks fantastic, great video
Pro Acryl, from Monument Hobbies, I have a review of them on the channel.
@@VinceVenturella thank you very much 😃
Thank you for the video!!!
No worries!
Not related to the video, but a while ago you mentioned that you prefer magnetized storage over foam. What solution do you use for travel? Most of the options I've found seem very bulky for their capacity compared to foam cases.
I use a magna rack for my display pieces. For transporting armies, I went to the store and bought a couple large tupperware tubs for a few dollars each. Then I grabbed a couple flat cookie sheets, again for a few dollars and just hot glued them down. Easy peasey and I can transport my whole army.
@@VinceVenturella Thank you so much. No issues with either for air travel?
@@dustinasche I try to avoid ever taking armies on planes. I travel with my mag rack all the time and no issue there.
Sound effects required? :)
Of course, always. ;)
It wasn't super clear, but did he base coat with white and the contrast brown over top?
Presumably he used his normal method; primed with black, zenithal highlights (grey and white) then applied a coat of the Aggaros Dunes over that to get the initial beige/buff tone.
Yep, standard zenithal highlighting, if you have some questions about that, I have several videos on the channel, you can find one sample video here - th-cam.com/video/J-dQU-dSNa8/w-d-xo.html
Anything you can’t do?
Water Skiing, no good at it. ;)
I have to say. I know that one of these videos hits the hobby sweet spot when 1) it hits a project I've been putting off because it's "too much work". 2) It's way easier than I expect it to be at the outset. 3) I figure out where you're taking it about half way through 4) You bring something in that I didn't expect that pushes it that much better.
In this case, I've got a robot with a bunch of leather boxes on its back, and I figured you were going to do multiple layers of stippling in contrast and glazes. What I didn't expect was the multiple inks/shades at the same time.
Thank you again for sharing your experience Vince.
Awesome, wonderful to hear and always happy to help. :)
Dang it! I just did a bunch of leather backpacks for my Star Wars Legion minis! Had I only wanted one more day.... 🤭
Always the way. :)
Ah man. Those filled gaps on its sides!!!!! This is one of the first big plastic models GW made if I'm not mistaken. I painted one back when it first came out and I struggled with the insane gaps. I see you did as well. It's nearly impossible to smooth out. 😥
Definitely excited for the new giants though. I hope they fixed the gaps problem.
Yeah, this kit was a technological marvel for its time, but good lord, the gaps.
very cool, i am going to try this on the Primaris chaplain. Can you advise any GW or vallejo equivalents for the ivory colour?
Well, Vallejo Ivory or Pale Sand is a pretty good place, but any kind of off-white will work.
Wow. Wondering if this would look impressive on my free folk army for a song of fire an Ice. That's alot of work though 👍
It would look great on those kinds of troops, and what I'll say is that it's a wonderfully simply process (especially across a unit of troops, because the first one is dry by the time you get to the last one).
These videos are great (always the first channel I check when I encoutner a new challenge in painting), and this technique in particular for me felt like magic. The transformation from stippled, brown mess to"'oh my god that's leather" in my head was crazy. Thanks Vince! :)
Awesome, thank you! :)
Thanks for the tutorial. I was just trying this with Transparent Brown, but I hadn't thought about adding all the other washes, Smoke, etc.
Glad it was helpful! :)
Excellent as always. Any chance of a video on rust? Its something I really struggle to get consistently right on my vehicles
So I have a few videos on rust, I would start here - th-cam.com/video/1mhVUKELXuo/w-d-xo.html
There are several more in the list on heavy rust, streaking, etc.
Hey Vince. I used to be very careful about using a single gradient through the shades and tints of every colour, trying to keep the tone consistent. I've realised recently this was the opposite of what I really wanted to do, which was to add tonal variety.
This video showcases this perfectly. Cheers!
Awesome, always happy to help. :)
James wappel would be proud. You've embraced your chaos as he would say.
Absolutely, that is the most fun about stuff like this, chaos is your friend. :)
Once again another great tutorial and the timing is great. I just started painting the Blood Tribe - Furianns form Raging Heroes...lots of leather! Again, thanks for the great tutorial and I look forward for the next one!!
Excellent, happy to help as always. :)
Another excellent video, I have learned so many new techniques in the last 2 years watching your tutorials, Many Thanks Vince
Great to hear! Always happy to help.
Can you doa guide on how to do those pink Sylvaneth in your channel header? I think Im in love :D
Thank you, there really wasn't much trickiess to it, but it was almost the same as the skin in this video, most of the colors were the same - th-cam.com/video/iUFnyLL7cSY/w-d-xo.html
I swear sometimes it's like your reading my mind... Just what i was thinking of last night 🙌🙌🙌
Always happy to help. :)
We should calm the leather down, it seems... Distressed!
Leather gets emotional really easily. ;)
I'm just painting a bust that's wearing a type of leather jacket! whats the chances :D Cheers Vince!
Those drones I hired are really paying off...I mean, huh, good luck! ;)
@@VinceVenturella Mmmmm I thought the constant buzzing was my tinnitus...now it all makes sense ;)
Excellent stuff as always dude:)
Thank you, very much appreciated as always. :)
I would like to see the flesh primer process which looks nice even before oil work (tabletop satisfied)
Well, I have several videos on it, but it was literally a single thin coat of flesh air paint over a zenithal prime. You can see the process here (albeit with blue, but it's the exact same thing, just replace blue with flesh) - th-cam.com/video/J-dQU-dSNa8/w-d-xo.html
@@VinceVenturella I'm curious how will react the oil wash on top of zenithal prime and color .I don't really like how acrylic wash working on tiny layers of airbrush paint .
Fantastic work,un saludo
Thank you, always happy to help.
Love the conversion with the hair.
Well thank you, I actually grew to hate it, but it was a good learning of what I don't like.
Phenomenal tutorial
Thank you, always happy to help.
Another great one Vince!
Glad you enjoyed it