My 2003 Ram 3500 crewcab dually has had its fair share of problems , but when I really need it its there. Like a faithful old horse. Love my old Cummins powered Ram.
Bought a 2001 with 57,000 miles. Replaced the steering with MOOG and RedHead steering gears out of Washington State. Both brands are real nice in this application.
I had my cummins drop the grid heater nut and trash the engine. The grid heater went out, a mechanic changed it but did not know to look for the loose nut in the intake. A few miles later the nut found its way to the #6 cylinder and trashed the engine. VERY Expensive lesson! IF the mechanic had known to look, he would have likely found that loose nut and saved me 20k.
Marion great video again , I did the same and did not elect to get my draglink tac welded. Which is fine except once those nuts are moved that’s when they tend to loosen up. I replaced my tie rod with a synergy systems tie rod and part of the process is realigning of coarse. So after those nuts were broke they loosened up on me. So I replaced draglink with a synergy systems piece. All the synergy systems stuff is serviceable and grease able. Have a Merry Christmas and thanks again.
Yes sir, I'm running the Airaid Jr. Kit in my 2018 2500 CTD. The kit replaces the paper element, and the tube, between the air cleaner box, and the turbo. I'm happy with it thus far, and it leaves the stock intake system in place. I got the dry filter option vs the oiled filter.
Hello Marion. I have a 2014 Ram 2500 Cummins Limited. I have been following you and using your recommendations to maintain my truck. I really appreciate your information and no-nonsense approach. Please keep the videos coming! Have you done, or plan to do, a transmission service on your truck in the near future?
Great info again Marion! I am into month 6 of owning my ‘17 Ram Cummins and now in the month 2 of a 9 month rv trip and. So I bring it into a dealer in FL to have the rear differential serviced and brake flush and they checked over the whole truck for me knowing I am on this trip. So they updated the PCM. Well that revealed codes showing injector problems. I never had MIL lamp go on about this! (Why that is, is a question I still have) And being new to diesel did not have reference point of how the engine should sound (yes, it does sound smoother now with 2 replaced injectors). Turns out it had metal shavings shorting out fuel injectors and they replaced 2 of them. This is a known issue on some 2017s where torquing the hold down bolts on the injectors produced a long shaving of metal that would ground the injector (Star case S1718000009). Anyway my point in relating my story is that perhaps having the dealer update PCM periodically is a good thing - it may reveal some codes that are lurking and not lighting up the MIL lamp. And by the way I have a code reader and it did not pick up any injector codes - I had checked just a few days earlier when I was investigating my failing alternator. So was the PCM update a fix for codes not lighting the MIL? And this was a certified used Ram I bought... a lot of questions, I have (Yoda voice)! Other than that enjoyed my ride and trip immensely.
Great advice, my dealer tack welded mine after I clearly said not too, they ended up buying and installing a Carli track bar for me. Have a Mary Christmas.
I recently found your channel and I want to thank you for the great informations you are providing. I own a 2017 2500 6.7l, I’m a maintenance freak when it comes for my truck, I’m not a mechanic but when I need to do some repairs or schedule maintenance on it, the shop where I go thinks I know a lot about what and how they should do it LOL. (That’s after watching your videos of course). I from the cold white north so if I want to keep my truck for a while might as well take good care of it. Again Thank you
Thanks for the overview. I'm not too keen on the tack welding solution either. I put loctite on the threads and hose clamps on either side of those nuts.
Good stuff, not keen on the tack welding either. That is the only recall that I have not addressed on my 2016. So far just checking it myself once in a while. Thanks Marion
Marion, thank you, only one suggestion, the camera on the intake heater nut was positioned so close that I had no idea where you were pointing in the engine bay.
You definitely can grind the tack weld, do an alignment and adjustment, then re-weld. I've had it done twice so far (dealership couldn't get it aligned so I had to go to an alignment shop),
I just replaced mine with an aftermarket drag link. FCA's drag link 'fix' is a bunch of horse shit. www.synergymfg.com/synergy-13-ram-truck-heavy-duty-drag-link.html
Great video! I have seen your other videos explaining the first few issues, and am glad you made a general heads up for those who may not watch all of them. Had that last intake dryer hose crumple in on itself on my 2013. Threw a maintenance air filter code (on a newer filter). Ended up cutting mine off. I am looking for an outer diameter measurement, so that I can replace it with some form of other tubing that will hold up. No luck on any of the manufacturing websites so far. Thanks again and hope you have a great new year!
Great video, just got myself a 2018 Cummins and will be sure to check all these areas, thank you for the professional and informative videos. Subscribed!
Hey Marion, another great video! I too was not comfortable with having RAM do the half ass drag link repair. Instead I purchased a SYNERGY 8701-01 HEAVY DUTY DRAG LINK 13-18 RAM 2500 / 3500 and installed it myself. The Synergy is designed with clamps on the adjusters similar to how the newer RAM drag links are designed. It cost me $300. Much to my surprise, RAM sent me a $300 check after I submitted a claim through www.mopar.com. Hard to say if they will do that for everyone, but it worked for me. Keep up the great video's!
Dennis Walker I also used the synergy systems draglink and tie rod. Great products heavy duty , and everything is serviceable and grease able. Great piece of mind when towing. 60,000 miles replaced all.
I have a ram 2014 Laramie mega cab. Your dead on with the problems I just replaced the y on radiator a month ago and went with the machined aluminum 75$ dodge motor company wanted 126$ for the plastic lol
Great video, just hit 100k on my ‘14 last week and all is good. I had the Y -pipe changed under warranty at 32k miles and has been fine ever since, (but I still keep checking). If it goes again I will likely go aftermarket aluminum. Keep the videos coming. I am really curious on the outcome if/when you test the intake tube. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.
The dealer welded mine and had to cut the weeds to do an alignment. Put the hose clamps on and used a paint marker to mark the nuts. Seems to work well and gives you the piece of mind.
I put hose clamps on when I first got the recall to avoid welding. I suppose Chrysler welds them because it's fast and cheap. I recently heard a rumor that in CA we may be refused DMV registration renewal for not having a safety recall performed. (I'll refrain from expressing my political opinion on that!)
Thanks Marion. My connector on the upper radiator hose just failed. Noticed pink spray all over the upper part of the engine compartment mostly on drivers side. Doing routine checks pre and post towing my fifth wheel about 300 miles. I've got a 2014 SLT and I was glad to catch this early before it completely failed. Dealer installed part 52014722-AD, which I assume is the fourth iteration of this connector. Hope they finally addressed it with a better quality part that can withstand the temp changes!
Enjoy your videos, I've got a 2017 Ram 3500 Dually and was curious if you knew how much fuel is "actually" left in the tank when the low fuel indicator dings then when the needle bottoms out on the fuel gauge red line? My fuel economy indicator on the dash will show approximately 20 miles of fuel left on the red line. Had a couple of close calls pulling my 17,600 pound 5th wheel. because at 1/4 fuel level I don't have a lot of distance left, needle drops quickly, Thanks, David
I ran my 07.5 6.7 down to when the light came on cause I was taking the tank down and installing a sump, I didn’t measure what was left in the tank but I would estimate between 3 and 4 gallons!
That 4 inch wheel well tubing is a POS, I had all kinds of trouble with my service engine light, turned out it was that damn hose collapsed, I bought a piece of cloths dryer vent hose and made a cuff on the hose with gorilla tape, using a large wire tie to put it all together. When you do this stretch that hose toward the door post and secure it with some multipurpose foam. The whole Idea is to get cool air to the intake, I’m lucky that the turbo did not suck that hose into the air box because it sucked it flat.
A double nut on each end of the steering linkage solves the problem. No welding needed. Banks has solved the problem of the grid heater bolt issue. Check out the Ram Monster intake video. 50 state legal and all EGR systems stay in tack, plus you gain engine performance.
I have a 2020 3500 limited and I checked my grid heater and it was loose and when I took off the intake ………. 2 turns more on the nut and I WOULD HAVE BEEN IN TROUBLE. I changed all to a monster ram intake, and I could not be more happy.
I bought my 2007.5 with 67000 miles and the DPF was clogged with ash. No way to burn that off. However, when you repair the truck so it will run that becomes a non issue. A 3 3/4 inch hole saw works wonders.
Marion Blair does it matter which wire you disconnect on the grid heater? Also, do you wait at all before starting or just start it. I live the same area as you and also have no need for the grid heater.
Don't wait, just start it. I disconnected right at the battery because it's easy to get to. You could disconnect on the grid heater side of the solenoid also. Best place is right at the battery. Follow the wire up from the solenoid under the intake baffle to the battery and remove it from the battery. Just keep the loose end away from the positive battery terminal. Doesn't matter if it touches the rest of the truck.
Hey Marion What batteries did you go with, AGM or flooded Not sure what to do, -50 Celsius here in Northern Canada and had a dead truck today. Current batteries are stock , 7.5 yrs old Thanks!
Thanks for efforts, What year is your truck? I have a 2006 5.9L, Because Ian out state at the moment, do you know if the grid heater bolt potential problem is an issue on the older trucks, Tia, bob
Does your truck has a secret switch on the top of center hole where bussines cards would go on the right side of the radio. I just found one in mine and I have no clue what is it for.
What if you use extra nuts on each side and just tighten those up against the existing nuts on each side with some loc tight? And maybe even put a lock washer in between them
The first issue with the drag link jamb nuts being welded. If your truck needs an alignment you need to find some who can actually do it. Not everyone will touch it. I even took mine to the dealer, and they couldn’t do it.
Hello and good afternoon. Question. I have a 2014 3500 tam Cummins. 80,000 miles. Good condition but radio shuts off on it's own every 10 mins or so. I'm looking help.
I've heard of this. If you haven't done it, disconnect both batteries for 30 minutes, it's fixed some. Also, if you can run the latest update thru, I'd try that in case something got corrupted with the current. Last thing would be to have the dealer re -flash the radio.
Hallo Marion, this is about tires for the 5000 pound, 25 foot dual axle travel trailer. The rig came with the cheapo TailerKing D rating tire. I'm shopping for a spare and am wondering if it's just fine to regularly tow with three D tires and one E ? I'm considering getting a better quality Carslile ST 225 /75 R15 with E rating, but one person says it's best to have all four being the same and the other person says it's fine but just don't go with a lower rating than what's supposed to be on. Also, was going to get galvanized rim but a guy says he's not such a believer in galvanized rims, regular painted or powder coated actually he prefers.
No problem mixing D's with E's. 5000 must be your empty weight. D's are good for 10,000. Most 5,000# max weight trailers have C's. The axles are usually rated less than the tires. It's normally stamped in the center of the axle shaft under the trailer if you want to check. The Maxxus is a very good tire.
@@MarionBlair Ok, thank you. My RV guy likes the Gladiator trailer tire. I'll check prices on the Maxxus D and E with a rim. No real need I guess in me getting E though because my camper came with the four D and is definitely less than 8000 pounds loaded. They want 130$s for the Carlisle E including a rim. This local tire store guy also thinks these tpms systems we thread onto the valve stem and bluetooth displays on the device we put on our dashboard actually cause my troubles than they alleviate. What's your thoughts on them? I like the Tymate 6 sensor tpms sold on Amazon for 160$s and from what I hear they are very helpful in saving us from a blowout. And supposedly we need metal valve stems for the sensors with flow through ability, save us having to remove the sensor, but so what, we have to remove the valve cap anyway. Hope you're surviving this Corona ordeal ok, stay healthy, thanks for your thorough efforts. God Bless
With the screw in TPMS make sure you put steel valve stems. (And balance the tires). Otherwise, the valve stem can start wobbling from the added weight and cause the stem to brake off or leak and dump the air. I've used them a lot on motorcycles. Nice to have however. What kind of problem did you have? Unless your current rims are rusted or damaged I'd save the money. I don't have any experience with Carlilse but they have been around for a while. I think Maxxis M8008's are a favorite among RVers. Find out what the GVWR is on your trailer. Usually have a sticker on the front driver's side or somewhere. Take your trailer to the local CAT scales and get at a minimum, your axle load. The key to not having any tire issues is checking the pressure in the morning before you leave and air them up to the maximum rated tire pressure that's stamped on the side of the tire. (TPMS makes this easy) If your trailer came with D's, they should be sufficient but if you'd rather go to E's, that'll give you more weight capacity if you are close to GVWR. (Axle rating is probably less than the D's however) D's are usually inflated to 65 and E's to 80. If you don't inflate the E's to 80, they are no better than the D's as far as load carrying capacity. Tire pressure is critical on these trailer tires.
@@MarionBlair I'm just shopping for one spare right now. So I'm wondering if one of my four cheapo Ds blows or I get a flat, and I put on my new spare that's an E, would it be smartest to fill it to the 80 psi? 🤔 having the other three at 65? perhaps causing some size imbalance? Good point or what ? Just thinking
2018 2500 6.7 Laramie- had the recall also on the front steering linkage and one on the tailgate latches and something else that I have forgotten what it was - already had to change out the radio for the entire electrical system screwing up - and its already doing it again at 40000 miles - windows not working properly - radio not working right - they were suppose to change it out again but refused to do so until it would mess up while they could see it doing so - only happens at sporadic times - it already had to have the brake master cylinder and something else in the same spot replaced because of mussy and hard brakes - and is starting to do it again - warranty is off now -- so they probably wont do it without me paying - big $$ -- sometimes the panic alarm goes off when ever it feels like it at any given time for no reason - service light is already on when in reverse when 4w drive is engaged - ever heard of that yet - Im wondering what it will be ? ! - Not very pleased with this foreign parted american piece of mess at this juncture - called dodge and Cummins on it for another problem it is having - revs high around 1100 RPMs at remote starting at or below freezing - Cummins tells me they are not able to tell me anything because of a very large lawsuit from ram that makes it where they are not allowed to work on or DISCUSS what may be wrong about the 6.7 engine of the truck - which seems very mobsterish to me - Fishy that is - ever heard of these problems before - yet ? ! - ram all but demanded me to buy an extended warranty after buying and even until this day - called - sent letters - at least 5 to date - very fishy stuff - very disappointed - any clues ?
@@MarionBlair - mine sometimes does it the whole time on remote start at freezing -- and sometimes - any old time - since I have gripped a lot to three different dealers - it has only happened back when it was below freezing - has anybody explained it yet - the dealers i talked to have no clue at all why - they just say its Ok -- and I notice that my milage will be less on those tanks of fuels - called Cummins co - will not discuss the issue at all - last dealer I went to told me to get rid of it - - offered no help in understanding - odd stuff -
My 2014 ram 3500 diesel tie rod completely disconnected. I almost wrecked. The truck skidded to a stop. I looked at the front of truck. Left wheel was pointing all the way to the left and the right wheel was pointing to the right. Towed truck to dealer it Was repaired and tack welded. There was a recall for that problem. I traded it for a 2016 3500 diesel. Then the steering started to feel sloppy after some years. I traded it for a 2021 limited 3500 diesel. There was a recall on the wheel lugs and ram instructed owners not to park the truck in your garage due to the truck can experience a engine fire while truck is parked without engine running. That problem was regulated to the 3500s with certain vin numbers. Mine was excluded. I still keep it parked outside. On my 2014 I asked the dealer are they getting their parts from china for the steering components. The service manager had a blank look on his face and said he didn’t have a answer to that. I love the ram diesel trucks. Hopefully, I can keep this truck for the next 20 years. By the way, your videos are excellent there is no music you get right to the point. Others are more like music videos I can’t hear what your suppose to because the music is so dam loud. Keep them coming
I am in the market for a new 3/4 ton. I like the options available on the Rams. However, dodge legacy of low quality freaks me out. Probably gunna go the Chevy,gmc or Ford route
Marion Blair I’m going to keep her going till I’m off the planet. Put in a triple disc, and all the upgrades to keep her running young. Garage Queen! Fluid Film for my Florida 2500. Keep up the good information vids, Dave.
There's a lot of controversy over the CP4 pump and it's inability to handle the low sulfur fuels but I'm assuming all that has been worked out???? Hopefully.
@@MarionBlair I worked in high throughput engine cells at Cummins in 2012-2013 before going to GE. I have a 15' Ram 2500 now. Its a shame that they have to choke these engines down for emissions instead of going that much further on a gallon of fuel. The low sulfur is also a shame because thats what made diesel prices go up. I just got my first check engine code at 63k miles P02E7 for intake air flow position sensor. Now i'm debating should I try to clean the throttle valve or spend 400+ on a new one. Or should I do emissions in tact tuning or delete. Love these engines but the carbon soot buildup in these engines due to the EGR is not healthy!
@@MarionBlair From what I keep hearing, CTT does some of the best tuning for emissions/deleted engines & transmission tuning. Good thing about them is if you delete you can get another tune from them for free I believe. Calibrated power only does emissions intact .
@@OhioPatriot308 thanks, I'm googling them now. I think if I delete, I may just pull all the crap out of the hood however bult emissions intact does make more sense, especially if you've got to reinstall it.
I would not zip tie that wire to the positive ...like you have it....if that wire wears through the insulation it will energize your heater...or possibly arc as it tries to provide current to heater. I would tie it to something else...JMHO
Yeah, that's pissing me off! I even replaced the seal with thicker auto door seal, and it still leaks! Didn't want to use silicone, but looking like that might be next.
K & N makes one but you have to buy the filter and I haven't found one that eliminates the square should at the bottom which I think is the culprit for the air flow issues. So still looking.
Thank God I had a Dodge-Cummins!! Really, I've owned three of them - a brand new 1993 (that got 23.7 mpg throughout the years of ownership) then a used 2002 and finally a 2004. ALL great trucks. Which is NOT what I hear about Ram-Cummins, which doesn't even sound right...
They all have problems I have a Denali and front end work is a pain in the ass and guess what I don’t want any more Gm they are all money pits you just pray they survive but I hear about every manufacturer not just ram there are horrible stories about all of them so just buy what you like and take what you hear with a grain of salt about any of the heavy duties
At 85 kms in way home i [juste purchased] expériences that wobble. Scary. After replacing steering stabilizer shock ( zero oil left in it) it steers well again. Up to 120 kms at least . How the last owner did not fix this i dont know. Got it cheap so have funds to go over and do proper repaira.
Yes, my intake was collapsed. I made one that was way better. When that thing collapses you get all kind of grief. A bad mechanic who does not know how to install the intake box correctly may destroy it also. When it collapses and that turbo kicks in it sucks it shut.
I wont own a diesl powered dodge, the steering has always been a problem I just fixed my steering on my 85 Ramcharger ,I have never had a Dodge with such nice steering.
Well I have had 2 1996 12v Cummins and both steering wise tight. One with 407k. My 2008 ram is nice and tight too. Fords have lose steering too, and the izuzumax well Iv drove plenty that weren't tight and tie rods snap.....
I don't know what to believe anymore...i have a 6.5 gmc. People starting talking. About this truck..so then I bought a Ford expedition with 3 valve in it.again people started talking about this engine. so I just bought a Ram with a Cummins in it ..& again.
Not if you go straight to start once you go to ignition on. Even if it does it won't do anything different. Just clear it when convenience. Disconnect at passenger's battery.
@@MarionBlair thanks! Just I side tip. I live in a northern state. I discovered that if you keep the block heater plugged in cold weather the grid heater doesn’t activate...just another way to limit it’s use. Keep the videos coming Marion!
@@MarionBlair Don't need holes, wrap wire around threads on one side, pull tight over nut on other side threads. Go back again tightening each side as you go
Who the HELL is engineering these trucks??? $58,000 up to $89,000 for these trucks??? All 3 manufacturers!! Its like buying a rifle and they forgot to check metallurgy on the receiver?? Three stooges are the engineer team??
My 2003 Ram 3500 crewcab dually has had its fair share of problems , but when I really need it its there. Like a faithful old horse. Love my old Cummins powered Ram.
Nice video. I was unaware of the grid heater stud issue. Thanks for shedding light on that. I'll be sure and check.
Well hell, I didn't know you could tell your phone to take a pic until now. HOLY COW!!!
Good stuff Marion, as usual. These are the kinds of things that nobody would "normally" think of or look for.
Gracias!
Your videos are excellent sir, thank you. You do a great job of clearly showing what you’re talking about on camera.
Thanks for that
Bought a 2001 with 57,000 miles. Replaced the steering with MOOG and RedHead steering gears out of Washington State. Both brands are real nice in this application.
I had my cummins drop the grid heater nut and trash the engine. The grid heater went out, a mechanic changed it but did not know to look for the loose nut in the intake. A few miles later the nut found its way to the #6 cylinder and trashed the engine. VERY Expensive lesson! IF the mechanic had known to look, he would have likely found that loose nut and saved me 20k.
Marion great video again , I did the same and did not elect to get my draglink tac welded. Which is fine except once those nuts are moved that’s when they tend to loosen up. I replaced my tie rod with a synergy systems tie rod and part of the process is realigning of coarse. So after those nuts were broke they loosened up on me. So I replaced draglink with a synergy systems piece. All the synergy systems stuff is serviceable and grease able. Have a Merry Christmas and thanks again.
Yes sir, I'm running the Airaid Jr. Kit in my 2018 2500 CTD. The kit replaces the paper element, and the tube, between the air cleaner box, and the turbo. I'm happy with it thus far, and it leaves the stock intake system in place. I got the dry filter option vs the oiled filter.
Hello Marion. I have a 2014 Ram 2500 Cummins Limited. I have been following you and using your recommendations to maintain my truck. I really appreciate your information and no-nonsense approach. Please keep the videos coming! Have you done, or plan to do, a transmission service on your truck in the near future?
Yeah I've been thinking about it
Great info again Marion! I am into month 6 of owning my ‘17 Ram Cummins and now in the month 2 of a 9 month rv trip and. So I bring it into a dealer in FL to have the rear differential serviced and brake flush and they checked over the whole truck for me knowing I am on this trip. So they updated the PCM. Well that revealed codes showing injector problems. I never had MIL lamp go on about this! (Why that is, is a question I still have) And being new to diesel did not have reference point of how the engine should sound (yes, it does sound smoother now with 2 replaced injectors). Turns out it had metal shavings shorting out fuel injectors and they replaced 2 of them. This is a known issue on some 2017s where torquing the hold down bolts on the injectors produced a long shaving of metal that would ground the injector (Star case S1718000009). Anyway my point in relating my story is that perhaps having the dealer update PCM periodically is a good thing - it may reveal some codes that are lurking and not lighting up the MIL lamp. And by the way I have a code reader and it did not pick up any injector codes - I had checked just a few days earlier when I was investigating my failing alternator. So was the PCM update a fix for codes not lighting the MIL? And this was a certified used Ram I bought... a lot of questions, I have (Yoda voice)! Other than that enjoyed my ride and trip immensely.
Hopefully your issues are over with that
Great advice, my dealer tack welded mine after I clearly said not too, they ended up buying and installing a Carli track bar for me. Have a Mary Christmas.
The only one that scares me is the grid heater and I think it's somewhat rare.
Nice video. I dig your chill approach to things that people get so worked up about. Great tips. Thx
I told them don't weld mine. They welded it anyway. I was mad. They said maybe they could "unweld" it. This is what we are dealing with. Geniuses.
Yep
My rad hose at the wye leaked in May. Replaced the Hose. Simple job.
I recently found your channel and I want to thank you for the great informations you are providing. I own a 2017 2500 6.7l, I’m a maintenance freak when it comes for my truck, I’m not a mechanic but when I need to do some repairs or schedule maintenance on it, the shop where I go thinks I know a lot about what and how they should do it LOL. (That’s after watching your videos of course). I from the cold white north so if I want to keep my truck for a while might as well take good care of it. Again Thank you
Thanks for the overview. I'm not too keen on the tack welding solution either. I put loctite on the threads and hose clamps on either side of those nuts.
Good stuff, not keen on the tack welding either. That is the only recall that I have not addressed on my 2016.
So far just checking it myself once in a while. Thanks Marion
Great job on your videos! Thanks so much.
Once again, you are an Akamai (smart) guy! Thank you! Jonathan, Hawaii
Marion, thank you, only one suggestion, the camera on the intake heater nut was positioned so close that I had no idea where you were pointing in the engine bay.
Thank you Sir, really appreciate your video!
You definitely can grind the tack weld, do an alignment and adjustment, then re-weld. I've had it done twice so far (dealership couldn't get it aligned so I had to go to an alignment shop),
Thanks, I suspected you could.
I just replaced mine with an aftermarket drag link. FCA's drag link 'fix' is a bunch of horse shit. www.synergymfg.com/synergy-13-ram-truck-heavy-duty-drag-link.html
Great video! I have seen your other videos explaining the first few issues, and am glad you made a general heads up for those who may not watch all of them. Had that last intake dryer hose crumple in on itself on my 2013. Threw a maintenance air filter code (on a newer filter). Ended up cutting mine off. I am looking for an outer diameter measurement, so that I can replace it with some form of other tubing that will hold up. No luck on any of the manufacturing websites so far. Thanks again and hope you have a great new year!
Great video, just got myself a 2018 Cummins and will be sure to check all these areas, thank you for the professional and informative videos. Subscribed!
Hey Marion, another great video! I too was not comfortable with having RAM do the half ass drag link repair. Instead I purchased a SYNERGY 8701-01 HEAVY DUTY DRAG LINK 13-18 RAM 2500 / 3500 and installed it myself. The Synergy is designed with clamps on the adjusters similar to how the newer RAM drag links are designed. It cost me $300. Much to my surprise, RAM sent me a $300 check after I submitted a claim through www.mopar.com. Hard to say if they will do that for everyone, but it worked for me. Keep up the great video's!
Thank you, I've heard of a few others that made the claim and got paid. Doesn't hurt to try.
Dennis Walker I also used the synergy systems draglink and tie rod. Great products heavy duty , and everything is serviceable and grease able. Great piece of mind when towing. 60,000 miles replaced all.
Good information on the grid heater
I have a ram 2014 Laramie mega cab. Your dead on with the problems I just replaced the y on radiator a month ago and went with the machined aluminum 75$ dodge motor company wanted 126$ for the plastic lol
Vern T that’s what my dealership sold mine to me for. I needed the part right then but I will be looking at the machined aluminum part soon.
Yeah I replaced it with the machined aluminum part much better
What brand did you buy? Just bought my truck would like to do this before it goes on it’s own
Thanks again Marion, Merry Christmas.
Thank you, Merry Christmas late and Happy New Year!
Great video, just hit 100k on my ‘14 last week and all is good. I had the Y -pipe changed under warranty at 32k miles and has been fine ever since, (but I still keep checking). If it goes again I will likely go aftermarket aluminum. Keep the videos coming. I am really curious on the outcome if/when you test the intake tube. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.
Thank you and to you also
I am loving learning about my 2017 Ram diesel. Thanks!
Thank you. Good stuff as always. Merry Christmas to you and yours sir!
I really want to thank you for your very informative videos.
Long stiff rod... lol That was funny! Thanks!
Put hose clamps on the steering linkage. It’ll keep the nuts from backing off.
I never thought of that excellent suggestion I'll be doing that
The dealer welded mine and had to cut the weeds to do an alignment. Put the hose clamps on and used a paint marker to mark the nuts. Seems to work well and gives you the piece of mind.
Bob Abooie I put stainless steel hose clamps up against the nut to keep them from coming loose. I can’t post a pic on this comment.
Yes, good solution.
I put hose clamps on when I first got the recall to avoid welding. I suppose Chrysler welds them because it's fast and cheap.
I recently heard a rumor that in CA we may be refused DMV registration renewal for not having a safety recall performed. (I'll refrain from expressing my political opinion on that!)
Thanks Marion. My connector on the upper radiator hose just failed. Noticed pink spray all over the upper part of the engine compartment mostly on drivers side. Doing routine checks pre and post towing my fifth wheel about 300 miles. I've got a 2014 SLT and I was glad to catch this early before it completely failed. Dealer installed part 52014722-AD, which I assume is the fourth iteration of this connector. Hope they finally addressed it with a better quality part that can withstand the temp changes!
Enjoy your videos, I've got a 2017 Ram 3500 Dually and was curious if you knew how much fuel is "actually" left in the tank when the low fuel indicator dings then when the needle bottoms out on the fuel gauge red line? My fuel economy indicator on the dash will show approximately 20 miles of fuel left on the red line. Had a couple of close calls pulling my 17,600 pound 5th wheel. because at 1/4 fuel level I don't have a lot of distance left, needle drops quickly, Thanks, David
I ran my 07.5 6.7 down to when the light came on cause I was taking the tank down and installing a sump, I didn’t measure what was left in the tank but I would estimate between 3 and 4 gallons!
That 4 inch wheel well tubing is a POS, I had all kinds of trouble with my service engine light, turned out it was that damn hose collapsed, I bought a piece of cloths dryer vent hose and made a cuff on the hose with gorilla tape, using a large wire tie to put it all together. When you do this stretch that hose toward the door post and secure it with some multipurpose foam. The whole Idea is to get cool air to the intake, I’m lucky that the turbo did not suck that hose into the air box because it sucked it flat.
A double nut on each end of the steering linkage solves the problem. No welding needed. Banks has solved the problem of the grid heater bolt issue. Check out the Ram Monster intake video. 50 state legal and all EGR systems stay in tack, plus you gain engine performance.
Good idea
I have a 2020 3500 limited and I checked my grid heater and it was loose and when I took off the intake ………. 2 turns more on the nut and I WOULD HAVE BEEN IN TROUBLE. I changed all to a monster ram intake, and I could not be more happy.
First day with my '17 cummins 2500. I really appreciate all your info - just subscribed!
Good video Mr. Blair thanks for the info.
Great video, as usual. I’m interested to see how the emissions equipment holds up on your truck as it ages. Any issues thus far?
No, no issues so far other than a few bogus codes and it's been a few years since that. We'll see how it goes and report what I find.
I bought my 2007.5 with 67000 miles and the DPF was clogged with ash. No way to burn that off. However, when you repair the truck so it will run that becomes a non issue. A 3 3/4 inch hole saw works wonders.
Thank you sir.... I have made a point of watching your videos and they are most helpful...... thank you again for all you do. Cheers !
Keep up the great informational videos, you are an awesome resource. You are a normal guy, thank you
Marion Blair does it matter which wire you disconnect on the grid heater? Also, do you wait at all before starting or just start it. I live the same area as you and also have no need for the grid heater.
Don't wait, just start it. I disconnected right at the battery because it's easy to get to. You could disconnect on the grid heater side of the solenoid also. Best place is right at the battery. Follow the wire up from the solenoid under the intake baffle to the battery and remove it from the battery. Just keep the loose end away from the positive battery terminal. Doesn't matter if it touches the rest of the truck.
Hey Marion
What batteries did you go with, AGM or flooded
Not sure what to do, -50 Celsius here in Northern Canada and had a dead truck today. Current batteries are stock , 7.5 yrs old
Thanks!
AGM, Sam’s had best price. Duracell.
@@MarionBlair ok thanks
No Sam's here in Alberta Canada
Costco Energizer are about 280 a pop.
Thanks for efforts,
What year is your truck?
I have a 2006 5.9L, Because Ian out state at the moment, do you know if the grid heater bolt potential problem is an issue on the older trucks,
Tia, bob
It's mainly the 6.7 L. Different type of grid heater. I never had an issue with a 5.9 l.
I just checked my hose clamps and sure enough the big one was broke. Thanks for the video
Glad it helped
Mr. Blair, have you changed out your shocks yet? I just reached 50K miles and thinking about tackling the job myself. Thank you and take care.
No I haven't. Mine only has about 50K but shock seem to be ok. I done it on other vehicles, should be too bad.
My duct that houses the foam and insert was cracked when I got my truck at 116k. 2018 model. I replaced it with the Airaid intake tube.
So it was sucking unfiltered air?
Marion Blair yes but the foam was up against the crack so that may have helped a little bit.
Does your truck has a secret switch on the top of center hole where bussines cards would go on the right side of the radio. I just found one in mine and I have no clue what is it for.
Victor Escobar no I just looked, I don’t see a switch just the hole
What if you use extra nuts on each side and just tighten those up against the existing nuts on each side with some loc tight? And maybe even put a lock washer in between them
Excellent idea. Ram should do that
Jam nuts should work! A Dremel, with a reinforced cut off wheel, to break the welds, if necessary!
Hi Marian have you got any recall for the tailgate latch? I received one on mine last month I have a 2014 Ram mega cab 2500 Laramie
None yet.
Thanks!! Keep up the great work sir.
The first issue with the drag link jamb nuts being welded. If your truck needs an alignment you need to find some who can actually do it. Not everyone will touch it. I even took mine to the dealer, and they couldn’t do it.
Great tips!, thank you
Good stuff. Definitely going to check out that heater wire deal and make sure mine's good. That's a terrible design lol.
On the drag link nuts. Red loctite
live from LOUISIANA STATE PENITENTIARY
Hello and good afternoon. Question. I have a 2014 3500 tam Cummins. 80,000 miles. Good condition but radio shuts off on it's own every 10 mins or so. I'm looking help.
I've heard of this. If you haven't done it, disconnect both batteries for 30 minutes, it's fixed some. Also, if you can run the latest update thru, I'd try that in case something got corrupted with the current. Last thing would be to have the dealer re -flash the radio.
@@MarionBlair alrighty sir. I appreciate the suggestions. Love your videos. 1st time Diesel owner. Loving my truck.
Hallo Marion, this is about tires for the 5000 pound, 25 foot dual axle travel trailer. The rig came with the cheapo TailerKing D rating tire. I'm shopping for a spare and am wondering if it's just fine to regularly tow with three D tires and one E ? I'm considering getting a better quality Carslile ST 225 /75 R15 with E rating, but one person says it's best to have all four being the same and the other person says it's fine but just don't go with a lower rating than what's supposed to be on. Also, was going to get galvanized rim but a guy says he's not such a believer in galvanized rims, regular painted or powder coated actually he prefers.
No problem mixing D's with E's. 5000 must be your empty weight. D's are good for 10,000. Most 5,000# max weight trailers have C's. The axles are usually rated less than the tires. It's normally stamped in the center of the axle shaft under the trailer if you want to check. The Maxxus is a very good tire.
@@MarionBlair Ok, thank you. My RV guy likes the Gladiator trailer tire. I'll check prices on the Maxxus D and E with a rim. No real need I guess in me getting E though because my camper came with the four D and is definitely less than 8000 pounds loaded. They want 130$s for the Carlisle E including a rim. This local tire store guy also thinks these tpms systems we thread onto the valve stem and bluetooth displays on the device we put on our dashboard actually cause my troubles than they alleviate. What's your thoughts on them? I like the Tymate 6 sensor tpms sold on Amazon for 160$s and from what I hear they are very helpful in saving us from a blowout. And supposedly we need metal valve stems for the sensors with flow through ability, save us having to remove the sensor, but so what, we have to remove the valve cap anyway. Hope you're surviving this Corona ordeal ok, stay healthy, thanks for your thorough efforts. God Bless
With the screw in TPMS make sure you put steel valve stems. (And balance the tires). Otherwise, the valve stem can start wobbling from the added weight and cause the stem to brake off or leak and dump the air. I've used them a lot on motorcycles. Nice to have however.
What kind of problem did you have? Unless your current rims are rusted or damaged I'd save the money. I don't have any experience with Carlilse but they have been around for a while. I think Maxxis M8008's are a favorite among RVers. Find out what the GVWR is on your trailer. Usually have a sticker on the front driver's side or somewhere. Take your trailer to the local CAT scales and get at a minimum, your axle load. The key to not having any tire issues is checking the pressure in the morning before you leave and air them up to the maximum rated tire pressure that's stamped on the side of the tire. (TPMS makes this easy) If your trailer came with D's, they should be sufficient but if you'd rather go to E's, that'll give you more weight capacity if you are close to GVWR. (Axle rating is probably less than the D's however) D's are usually inflated to 65 and E's to 80. If you don't inflate the E's to 80, they are no better than the D's as far as load carrying capacity. Tire pressure is critical on these trailer tires.
@@MarionBlair I'm just shopping for one spare right now. So I'm wondering if one of my four cheapo Ds blows or I get a flat, and I put on my new spare that's an E, would it be smartest to fill it to the 80 psi? 🤔 having the other three at 65? perhaps causing some size imbalance? Good point or what ? Just thinking
Great info!! Thank you
2018 2500 6.7 Laramie- had the recall also on the front steering linkage and one on the tailgate latches and something else that I have forgotten what it was - already had to change out the radio for the entire electrical system screwing up - and its already doing it again at 40000 miles - windows not working properly - radio not working right - they were suppose to change it out again but refused to do so until it would mess up while they could see it doing so - only happens at sporadic times - it already had to have the brake master cylinder and something else in the same spot replaced because of mussy and hard brakes - and is starting to do it again - warranty is off now -- so they probably wont do it without me paying - big $$ -- sometimes the panic alarm goes off when ever it feels like it at any given time for no reason - service light is already on when in reverse when 4w drive is engaged - ever heard of that yet - Im wondering what it will be ? ! - Not very pleased with this foreign parted american piece of mess at this juncture - called dodge and Cummins on it for another problem it is having - revs high around 1100 RPMs at remote starting at or below freezing - Cummins tells me they are not able to tell me anything because of a very large lawsuit from ram that makes it where they are not allowed to work on or DISCUSS what may be wrong about the 6.7 engine of the truck - which seems very mobsterish to me - Fishy that is - ever heard of these problems before - yet ? ! - ram all but demanded me to buy an extended warranty after buying and even until this day - called - sent letters - at least 5 to date - very fishy stuff - very disappointed - any clues ?
No, I've seen the high idle issue at cold temps.
@@MarionBlair - mine sometimes does it the whole time on remote start at freezing -- and sometimes - any old time - since I have gripped a lot to three different dealers - it has only happened back when it was below freezing - has anybody explained it yet - the dealers i talked to have no clue at all why - they just say its Ok -- and I notice that my milage will be less on those tanks of fuels - called Cummins co - will not discuss the issue at all - last dealer I went to told me to get rid of it - - offered no help in understanding - odd stuff -
My 2014 ram 3500 diesel tie rod completely disconnected. I almost wrecked. The truck skidded to a stop. I looked at the front of truck. Left wheel was pointing all the way to the left and the right wheel was pointing to the right. Towed truck to dealer it Was repaired and tack welded. There was a recall for that problem. I traded it for a 2016 3500 diesel. Then the steering started to feel sloppy after some years. I traded it for a 2021 limited 3500 diesel. There was a recall on the wheel lugs and ram instructed owners not to park the truck in your garage due to the truck can experience a engine fire while truck is parked without engine running. That problem was regulated to the 3500s with certain vin numbers. Mine was excluded. I still keep it parked outside. On my 2014 I asked the dealer are they getting their parts from china for the steering components. The service manager had a blank look on his face and said he didn’t have a answer to that. I love the ram diesel trucks. Hopefully, I can keep this truck for the next 20 years. By the way, your videos are excellent there is no music you get right to the point. Others are more like music videos I can’t hear what your suppose to because the music is so dam loud. Keep them coming
Thanks
How often should you clean the egr valve?
Never, not required anymore.
Thanks, good stuff to know!
I am in the market for a new 3/4 ton. I like the options available on the Rams. However, dodge legacy of low quality freaks me out. Probably gunna go the Chevy,gmc or Ford route
Chevy 4x4 Ford has had there issues and Chevy injector issues... Cummins is the best Diesel out there or I would go Gas with Ford or Chevy
Great video!
Thanks!
Good advice
So does this apply to my 2000? Thanks, Dave.
Dave Kana mostly you are a lucky person
Marion Blair I’m going to keep her going till I’m off the planet. Put in a triple disc, and all the upgrades to keep her running young. Garage Queen! Fluid Film for my Florida 2500. Keep up the good information vids, Dave.
@@davekana8388 Thanks, I'd trade my 2014 for my 1995 tomorrow if I could.
Marion Blair P7100!
Marion Blair get an old gen 2 and rebuild!
Glad I subscribed, good video !
Awesome, thank you!
Thank you Sir.👍
So nice of you
What do you think about them using the CP4 pump in the 2019+ trucks?
There's a lot of controversy over the CP4 pump and it's inability to handle the low sulfur fuels but I'm assuming all that has been worked out???? Hopefully.
@@MarionBlair I worked in high throughput engine cells at Cummins in 2012-2013 before going to GE. I have a 15' Ram 2500 now. Its a shame that they have to choke these engines down for emissions instead of going that much further on a gallon of fuel. The low sulfur is also a shame because thats what made diesel prices go up. I just got my first check engine code at 63k miles P02E7 for intake air flow position sensor. Now i'm debating should I try to clean the throttle valve or spend 400+ on a new one. Or should I do emissions in tact tuning or delete. Love these engines but the carbon soot buildup in these engines due to the EGR is not healthy!
@@OhioPatriot308 Mitch, I'm struggling with this also. So accurate what you say. My first cummins had no her and the oil never turned black.
@@MarionBlair From what I keep hearing, CTT does some of the best tuning for emissions/deleted engines & transmission tuning. Good thing about them is if you delete you can get another tune from them for free I believe. Calibrated power only does emissions intact .
@@OhioPatriot308 thanks, I'm googling them now. I think if I delete, I may just pull all the crap out of the hood however bult emissions intact does make more sense, especially if you've got to reinstall it.
I would not zip tie that wire to the positive ...like you have it....if that wire wears through the insulation it will energize your heater...or possibly arc as it tries to provide current to heater. I would tie it to something else...JMHO
Jiggle works well for us southern boys!!
Yes I love the jiggle
What about 3rd brake light leak?
Yea, I guess it could be added. I haven't had the issue but some have.
I clean and inspect all my lights once a year
Yeah, that's pissing me off! I even replaced the seal with thicker auto door seal, and it still leaks! Didn't want to use silicone, but looking like that might be next.
Never had a leak on my 14’ with 112k.
What brand is the replacement for the intake boot?
K & N makes one but you have to buy the filter and I haven't found one that eliminates the square should at the bottom which I think is the culprit for the air flow issues. So still looking.
Thank God I had a Dodge-Cummins!! Really, I've owned three of them - a brand new 1993 (that got 23.7 mpg throughout the years of ownership) then a used 2002 and finally a 2004. ALL great trucks. Which is NOT what I hear about Ram-Cummins, which doesn't even sound right...
Dude, they all had problems. Ever here of the KDP? Or the suspension death wobbles. Basically everything around the engine was and still is crap.
Cummins is NOT the issue/problem with Ram, the PROBLEM is FCA!!!
They all have problems I have a Denali and front end work is a pain in the ass and guess what I don’t want any more Gm they are all money pits you just pray they survive but I hear about every manufacturer not just ram there are horrible stories about all of them so just buy what you like and take what you hear with a grain of salt about any of the heavy duties
I have a friend with a new super duty/ powerstroke with the death wobble. When it starts, he's got to come to nearly a dead stop before it quits.
At 85 kms in way home i [juste purchased] expériences that wobble. Scary. After replacing steering stabilizer shock ( zero oil left in it) it steers well again. Up to 120 kms at least . How the last owner did not fix this i dont know. Got it cheap so have funds to go over and do proper repaira.
Yes, my intake was collapsed. I made one that was way better. When that thing collapses you get all kind of grief. A bad mechanic who does not know how to install the intake box correctly may destroy it also. When it collapses and that turbo kicks in it sucks it shut.
Yes, I need to watch for that as times goes on. Did you get a code?
I wont own a diesl powered dodge, the steering has always been a problem I just fixed my steering on my 85 Ramcharger ,I have never had a Dodge with such nice steering.
Well I have had 2 1996 12v Cummins and both steering wise tight. One with 407k. My 2008 ram is nice and tight too. Fords have lose steering too, and the izuzumax well Iv drove plenty that weren't tight and tie rods snap.....
Yes, none are perfect
The coolant y will crack and leak.
Why not safety wire it?
That’s exactly what I’m planning on doing I’ve got to figure out how to drill the holes for the safety wire
Airaid sells just the intake tube for these trucks
Steve Y thanks I’ll investiigate
Do you have a part #?
www.airaid.com/300-986-airaid-modular-intake-tube
I don't know what to believe anymore...i have a 6.5 gmc. People starting talking. About this truck..so then I bought a Ford expedition with 3 valve in it.again people started talking about this engine. so I just bought a Ram with a Cummins in it ..& again.
I understand how you feel. I guess nothing's perfect. The issues I mention are not that big a deal however. Just things to watch for.
@@MarionBlair 👍
👍
😂😂😂😂😂😂 great vid good info but who the fuck would want to buy a Ram in the first place, pure junk.
Ya now I am freaked out about my grid heater. No two ways about it, this is a serious potential disaster. If you disable, you will throw a code.
Not if you go straight to start once you go to ignition on. Even if it does it won't do anything different. Just clear it when convenience. Disconnect at passenger's battery.
@@MarionBlair thanks! Just I side tip. I live in a northern state. I discovered that if you keep the block heater plugged in cold weather the grid heater doesn’t activate...just another way to limit it’s use. Keep the videos coming Marion!
I really like this guy, but I hate my 2014 Ram 2500 6.7
I won’t let them weld my steering either
2:01 🤣
Safety wire one side to the other
yea, nice if there were holes for the safety wire.
@@MarionBlair Don't need holes, wrap wire around threads on one side, pull tight over nut on other side threads. Go back again tightening each side as you go
@@duconce Or just use red loctite and be done with it 😁
how bout safety wiring the nuts together for #1
Yes, an aircraft mechanic recommended that also. Better than welding, I'd say.
#1 problem With dodge / ram diesel trucks they can't build a transmission to save their life
Who the HELL is engineering these trucks??? $58,000 up to $89,000 for these trucks??? All 3 manufacturers!! Its like buying a rifle and they forgot to check metallurgy on the receiver?? Three stooges are the engineer team??
long stiff rod. hahaha.