Your directness is greatly appreciated instead of listening to other videos with irritating music & their stories before getting to the point. Is it safe to fill the water heater with a cup of Iron Out with the water and let it set overnight? We camp at a campsite that provides well water only.
Hi Gail. Thanks for the positive feedback. I'm really not sure about using Iron Out in the water heater overnight though. I don't know of anyone that has done that. So I can't help with that question.
This was one of the best ones I’ve seen. I have a new camper and my rod already looks bad enough that I want to change it. I will do the maintenance to start out and continue every year.
I'm glad to hear that the video was helpful. BTW, the life of the anode rod often depends a lot on the hardness of the water where you are camping. So some RVers have to check the anode rod more often than others. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@RVInspectionAndCare thanks for the quick reply! I was in the process of working on my own and didn’t have the right set to get in there. Also that pressure valve was a great note. I thought I bled all the lines out. Turns out so much more was in there
Hi, thank you for this video explaining all important details. I wonder what is the switch at bottom left part for (with a silver tape over it) we have that switch as well. We have gas+electric water heater but the electric does not work so i wonder if I need to switch it on there?
The switch on the external part of the water heater is another way to shut off the electric service to the heating element if you are working on the water heater. It is a failsafe way to be sure that the heating element doesn't get turned n by accident while there is no water in the tank. So if you plan on using electric to power your water heater, you must have that switch n the "ON" position. And if you have another switch inside the RV, it must be on as well. I hope that helps.
Hi Sherri. Yes, it really is not a difficult job to do. Almost anybody can change the anode rod and clean out their RV water heater. And once you have done it the first time, you'll know exactly how it goes from then on.
I live in my Jayco 32BHDS full time - parked in a mobile home park, never moves. It’s a 2013 and I’ve owned/lived in it 5 years and have never changed the anode rod (never knew I needed to). My question is: I run my water heater on electric only. I know I need to turn off the gas and the power switch to the water heater, but do I need to disconnect all power to the RV? Disconnect the battery too?
Hi John. I usually recommend that you turn off the power to the rig and flip the battery disconnect switch while replacing the anode rod, especially for the first time that you do it. It's a way to make sure that you don't make some kind of mistake that could be costly. Once you have the process down, it may not be as necessary. BTW, if you have an Atwood water heater, you don't need to do any of this as they do not use anode rods. This video is for only Suburban water heaters.
Make sure that it's the correct anode rod for your water heater first. Then use a wire brush to clean out the hole threads and make sure nothing prevents the anode rod threads from starting. Finally, just keep trying. It's not unusual that the threads do not line up perfectly on the first few tries. So just keep working at it until they do. I hope that helps.
Unfortunately, this video is only about replacing the anode rod in a Suburban water heater. I recommend that you try to identify the brand of water heater you have in your RV and then search for instructions on how to maintain it properly.
I hope you turned the electric element off before replacing the anode rod. If not, it's probably ruined. But the good news is that they are pretty inexpensive and easy to replace. In the meantime, you should be able to run the water heater on propane instead.
Hi Kenneth. Mine is the same way. I always use some plumbers tape around the threads of the anode rod and then tighten it in place snugly. Don't put too much torque on the rod head though. Just snug it it tight so that it can still be removed without too much difficulty. If there are no leaks when you refill the tank, you have most likely done everything right. I hope that helps.
Hi Luka. Many RVs have two buttons inside, usually around the control panel, that allows you to choose to run the water heater on either electric or propane. If you only want to run it on electric just make sure that the propane button is not activated.
You said turn back on the water before turning on the water heater. Do you turn it off from a valve inside under the sink? I have my freshwater tank full but I am not hooked up to a water source. Well the water from the freshwater tanks start flowing into the water heater if I open up the valve? Is that what you mean when you say to put water back in the hot water tank? I was just kind of confused
Hi Mike. The water for the RV needs to be turned off at the faucet to empty the water heater. And make sure that the water pump is off too so you aren't sending water from the fresh water tank into the water heater instead. Then when you replace the anode rod, you turn on the water at the faucet again and keep the pressure relief valve at the top of the water heater open until water starts coming out of it. Then you can close the pressure relief valve since the water heater is full of water at that point. Then you can turn on either the gas or electric side of the water heater to get hot water. I hope that helps.
I'm currently experiencing a small leak under the cabinet When the hot water heater is on, and I can't identify the source. I'm sure the anode is overdue for replacing. I'm hoping this maintenance process will clear up the leak issue. Any thoughts let me know please;)
Hi Kathy. I doubt that the anode rod is responsible for an interior water leak. If it wasn't tightened snug enough the water would leak outside of the water heater where the anode rod is inserted. Most likely your water leak inside is caused by something else. So take a good flashlight with you under the cabinet and try to pinpoint where the water originates from. It can be a challenge to find the cause of small leaks sometimes, so be patient and keep trying to locate it.
First rv video that covered this subject. FYI tried getting the rv inspector to look at an rv I was trying to buy. They are booked a month out. That rv sold. What do advise when rvs are selling fast?
Hi Otis. Yes, that is a common problem this year with all the Covid issues and RVs being bought like hotcakes. Unfortunately, there isn't much of a remedy for getting an RV inspector quickly right now. However, I am going to be releasing a new ebook in about a week that teaches everyone how to perform their own personal RV inspection on an RV they are thinking about buying. It doesn't replace having a certified RV inspector go through the RV thoroughly, but it may help somewhat with your buying decision while things are so unstable in the RV industry right now. Stay tuned, I'll be releasing the ebook very soon.
Question.... I've heard it both ways, but do you leave the drain plug OUT when the RV isn't in use for an extended time (few weeks or more) so that air can flow in and possibly prevent a sulfur smell OR do you leave the anode rod in except for during the winter? On that note, is there any way to keep insects out of the water tank but allow airflow in? Doesn't look like anyone makes a screen capped anode rod hole plug. Thanks!
I personally would not leave the anode rod hole open as insects can crawl in and make nests or die and so on. If you are using the RV, the water heater should be full of water and the anode rod in place. If you are storing the RV for a while, just drain the water heater entirely and replace the anode rod when it's empty.
That's a good question Bob. These anode rods are designed to attract all of the corrosion inside the tank that could instead be applied to the water heater liner. In most cases, it's not really about how small the anode rod gets, but how heavily pitted it is. In fact, in some cases, the rod will be very small in some areas and much larger in other areas. But clearly, heavy pitting will be obvious in those cases. It's one of those things that you will simply know an anode rod that needs to be replaced when you see it. Usually, if you do your annual maintenance on the water heater and you have been using the RV very much through the year, replacement will be necessary. Thanks for commenting and asking that question.
New sub here, too! I'm going to try tackling this project myself this coming weekend, so this video will probably get re-played a few hundred times before next Monday! Showing my ignorance, I have to ask about the plumbers tape, since I've never used it before - is there a certain size/brand I should get? How does it get wound around the anode rod's threads?
Glad to have you as new subs. I know that replacing the water heater anode rod seems intimidating the first time but just go slow and you will have it down cold for the next time. On the plumbers tape, usually it comes in 1/2 inch rolls. You can find it at any hardware store or home improvement center. You wind it around the threads manually just a couple of times or so. Don't put too much on there. The purpose is just to create a little added seal against water leakage on the threads. I hope that helps and I wish you well on your weekend project.
New Subscriber here - Glad we ran across your channel. Not many channels out there that go in depth about the care of an RV, but its something we find we spend a ton of time on. We just replaced our entire water heater because the previous owner did not change the anode rod which caused all sorts of issues inside the tank. Gland your channel putting light on these maintenance items that be a lifesaver. Keep up the good work. Looking forward to more content!
Hi Buck and Raelynn, thanks for the sub. I really appreciate it. I subbed you folks as well. It's true that there aren't a lot of RV how-to channels, at least not as much as RV travel channels anyway. But I enjoy sharing what I know and hopefully it will be helpful to my fellow RVers. I wish you both happy and safe travels and I'm looking forward to seeing your future content.
Very helpful, thank you!
You're welcome. Safe and happy RV travels to you!
Just bought a Flagg Staff camper and learning from these videos
Sounds great Nancy. I'm glad that you're enjoying my videos. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for this video. I feel confident about doing this maintenance myself now. Very informative!
Glad it was helpful. And I hope the replacement goes smoothly for you!
Awesome thankyou
You're very welcome Karen. I'm glad this video was helpful!
Your directness is greatly appreciated instead of listening to other videos with irritating music & their stories before getting to the point. Is it safe to fill the water heater with a cup of Iron Out with the water and let it set overnight? We camp at a campsite that provides well water only.
Hi Gail. Thanks for the positive feedback. I'm really not sure about using Iron Out in the water heater overnight though. I don't know of anyone that has done that. So I can't help with that question.
Thank you!
You're welcome. Thanks for watching and leaving a positive comment!
One of the best instructional videos I’ve seen anywhere, RV or anything else. Thank you.
Wow, thanks Heather. That kind of positive feedback is really appreciated! I'm glad the video was helpful for you.
Such a great step by step video. Thank you so much for posting. This made it so easy for me to do it myself.
I'm so glad to hear that the video was helpful Heather. Thanks for watching and leaving some positive feedback as well!
This was one of the best ones I’ve seen. I have a new camper and my rod already looks bad enough that I want to change it. I will do the maintenance to start out and continue every year.
I'm glad to hear that the video was helpful. BTW, the life of the anode rod often depends a lot on the hardness of the water where you are camping. So some RVers have to check the anode rod more often than others. Thanks for watching and commenting!
What size socket did you use?
I used a 1 1/16 socket with a breaker bar to loosen the anode rod easily. Thanks for watching!
@@RVInspectionAndCare thanks for the quick reply! I was in the process of working on my own and didn’t have the right set to get in there. Also that pressure valve was a great note. I thought I bled all the lines out. Turns out so much more was in there
Hi, thank you for this video explaining all important details. I wonder what is the switch at bottom left part for (with a silver tape over it) we have that switch as well. We have gas+electric water heater but the electric does not work so i wonder if I need to switch it on there?
The switch on the external part of the water heater is another way to shut off the electric service to the heating element if you are working on the water heater. It is a failsafe way to be sure that the heating element doesn't get turned n by accident while there is no water in the tank. So if you plan on using electric to power your water heater, you must have that switch n the "ON" position. And if you have another switch inside the RV, it must be on as well. I hope that helps.
@@RVInspectionAndCare Thank you so much for clarification. That makes sense and explains everything 😊
Thanks so much. Ordering rod today and it will be easy peezy for me to do this.
Hi Sherri. Yes, it really is not a difficult job to do. Almost anybody can change the anode rod and clean out their RV water heater. And once you have done it the first time, you'll know exactly how it goes from then on.
I live in my Jayco 32BHDS full time - parked in a mobile home park, never moves. It’s a 2013 and I’ve owned/lived in it 5 years and have never changed the anode rod (never knew I needed to). My question is: I run my water heater on electric only. I know I need to turn off the gas and the power switch to the water heater, but do I need to disconnect all power to the RV? Disconnect the battery too?
Hi John. I usually recommend that you turn off the power to the rig and flip the battery disconnect switch while replacing the anode rod, especially for the first time that you do it. It's a way to make sure that you don't make some kind of mistake that could be costly. Once you have the process down, it may not be as necessary. BTW, if you have an Atwood water heater, you don't need to do any of this as they do not use anode rods. This video is for only Suburban water heaters.
Perfect! Thank you!
You're welcome Larry. Thanks for watching and leaving a nice comment!
My new anode rod is not screwing in. Any thoughts on what Incan do?
Make sure that it's the correct anode rod for your water heater first. Then use a wire brush to clean out the hole threads and make sure nothing prevents the anode rod threads from starting. Finally, just keep trying. It's not unusual that the threads do not line up perfectly on the first few tries. So just keep working at it until they do. I hope that helps.
On my tank the gas tube is in front of the anode rod. How do I access the rod with tools to remove it? Thanks.
Unfortunately, this video is only about replacing the anode rod in a Suburban water heater. I recommend that you try to identify the brand of water heater you have in your RV and then search for instructions on how to maintain it properly.
Just replaced my rod per your instructions and it all worked out great. Thank you sir
Great to hear that! Next time it will be so much easier too. :-)
Excellent video big help I am new rv er
So glad it was helpful Soul. Enjoy your new RV adventures!
I just changed my anode rod and now the heater isn’t making the water warm. I’m not sure what to check next. Any suggestions?
I hope you turned the electric element off before replacing the anode rod. If not, it's probably ruined. But the good news is that they are pretty inexpensive and easy to replace. In the meantime, you should be able to run the water heater on propane instead.
Hi, Thank-you for this information. When I attempted to insert new anode, it seems tighten way before the end of the threads. NORMAL???
Hi Kenneth. Mine is the same way. I always use some plumbers tape around the threads of the anode rod and then tighten it in place snugly. Don't put too much torque on the rod head though. Just snug it it tight so that it can still be removed without too much difficulty. If there are no leaks when you refill the tank, you have most likely done everything right. I hope that helps.
Great information. I don't use gas and wonder if I don't have to turn that off at the water heater?
Hi Luka. Many RVs have two buttons inside, usually around the control panel, that allows you to choose to run the water heater on either electric or propane. If you only want to run it on electric just make sure that the propane button is not activated.
No teflon tape on threads? It can only help and never hurt
Good point Martin. Plumbers tape works great on the anode rod threads to provide a solid seal.
You said turn back on the water before turning on the water heater. Do you turn it off from a valve inside under the sink? I have my freshwater tank full but I am not hooked up to a water source. Well the water from the freshwater tanks start flowing into the water heater if I open up the valve? Is that what you mean when you say to put water back in the hot water tank? I was just kind of confused
Hi Mike. The water for the RV needs to be turned off at the faucet to empty the water heater. And make sure that the water pump is off too so you aren't sending water from the fresh water tank into the water heater instead. Then when you replace the anode rod, you turn on the water at the faucet again and keep the pressure relief valve at the top of the water heater open until water starts coming out of it. Then you can close the pressure relief valve since the water heater is full of water at that point. Then you can turn on either the gas or electric side of the water heater to get hot water. I hope that helps.
@@RVInspectionAndCare I see. Awesome, thank you for the response!
Anytime Mike :-)
I'm currently experiencing a small leak under the cabinet When the hot water heater is on, and I can't identify the source. I'm sure the anode is overdue for replacing. I'm hoping this maintenance process will clear up the leak issue. Any thoughts let me know please;)
Hi Kathy. I doubt that the anode rod is responsible for an interior water leak. If it wasn't tightened snug enough the water would leak outside of the water heater where the anode rod is inserted. Most likely your water leak inside is caused by something else. So take a good flashlight with you under the cabinet and try to pinpoint where the water originates from. It can be a challenge to find the cause of small leaks sometimes, so be patient and keep trying to locate it.
Great video. Very informative. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it Red Dawn. Thanks for watching!
First rv video that covered this subject. FYI tried getting the rv inspector to look at an rv I was trying to buy. They are booked a month out. That rv sold. What do advise when rvs are selling fast?
Hi Otis. Yes, that is a common problem this year with all the Covid issues and RVs being bought like hotcakes. Unfortunately, there isn't much of a remedy for getting an RV inspector quickly right now. However, I am going to be releasing a new ebook in about a week that teaches everyone how to perform their own personal RV inspection on an RV they are thinking about buying. It doesn't replace having a certified RV inspector go through the RV thoroughly, but it may help somewhat with your buying decision while things are so unstable in the RV industry right now. Stay tuned, I'll be releasing the ebook very soon.
Question.... I've heard it both ways, but do you leave the drain plug OUT when the RV isn't in use for an extended time (few weeks or more) so that air can flow in and possibly prevent a sulfur smell OR do you leave the anode rod in except for during the winter? On that note, is there any way to keep insects out of the water tank but allow airflow in? Doesn't look like anyone makes a screen capped anode rod hole plug. Thanks!
I personally would not leave the anode rod hole open as insects can crawl in and make nests or die and so on. If you are using the RV, the water heater should be full of water and the anode rod in place. If you are storing the RV for a while, just drain the water heater entirely and replace the anode rod when it's empty.
Great information, very well done video! # Roamingwithrover
Thanks Robbin. I just subscribed to your channel too. :-)
Thank you Great Video. Glad I found your video not I can add you to my Subscription for future Videos.
Thanks for the sub Jeffrey and I'm glad that the video was helpful.
How small can the anode get before it stops doing its job and needs to be replaced? Thanks (in advance :-) )
That's a good question Bob. These anode rods are designed to attract all of the corrosion inside the tank that could instead be applied to the water heater liner. In most cases, it's not really about how small the anode rod gets, but how heavily pitted it is. In fact, in some cases, the rod will be very small in some areas and much larger in other areas. But clearly, heavy pitting will be obvious in those cases. It's one of those things that you will simply know an anode rod that needs to be replaced when you see it. Usually, if you do your annual maintenance on the water heater and you have been using the RV very much through the year, replacement will be necessary. Thanks for commenting and asking that question.
New sub here, too! I'm going to try tackling this project myself this coming weekend, so this video will probably get re-played a few hundred times before next Monday! Showing my ignorance, I have to ask about the plumbers tape, since I've never used it before - is there a certain size/brand I should get? How does it get wound around the anode rod's threads?
Glad to have you as new subs. I know that replacing the water heater anode rod seems intimidating the first time but just go slow and you will have it down cold for the next time. On the plumbers tape, usually it comes in 1/2 inch rolls. You can find it at any hardware store or home improvement center. You wind it around the threads manually just a couple of times or so. Don't put too much on there. The purpose is just to create a little added seal against water leakage on the threads. I hope that helps and I wish you well on your weekend project.
New Subscriber here - Glad we ran across your channel. Not many channels out there that go in depth about the care of an RV, but its something we find we spend a ton of time on. We just replaced our entire water heater because the previous owner did not change the anode rod which caused all sorts of issues inside the tank. Gland your channel putting light on these maintenance items that be a lifesaver. Keep up the good work. Looking forward to more content!
Hi Buck and Raelynn, thanks for the sub. I really appreciate it. I subbed you folks as well. It's true that there aren't a lot of RV how-to channels, at least not as much as RV travel channels anyway. But I enjoy sharing what I know and hopefully it will be helpful to my fellow RVers. I wish you both happy and safe travels and I'm looking forward to seeing your future content.