UPDATE: THIS WATER HEATER CLEANING METHOD HAS BEEN UPDATED WITH IMPORTANT CHANGES. CLICK HERE TO SEE THE NEW TECHNIQUE: th-cam.com/video/TL7AtXJYNcc/w-d-xo.html
Beware. The caulk seal at the bottom between the water heater and the outside trim prevents water from getting into the inside wall cavity. In my case, my 2014 Rockwood ended up leaking my vinegar water underneath the trailer and also showed up inside on the floor. The abundance of water exiting the anode hole flooded over the caulk and also under the caulk. The caulk appears fine. Thank You for excellent the video
wow perfect timing. I just bought a used travel trailer and the 'instructions' that came with it were very vague. We turned the city water on and didn't know the anode was out. The former owner had only used it a couple of times and had it serviced yearly by the camper dealer so he didn't know anything useful. Now I have a better understanding of the what and why of it... Thanks.
Very well explained. I use my water heater quite often as I mobile dog groom. I frequently inspect and change my anode rod a few times a year. Am hearing a whistle sound so will do an inspection on the element and check valve next. I didn't know how to get vinagar into the tank, so I appreciate your TH-cam
Thanks very much for the tip. I'm going to have to borrow a dremel tool and give this a try. And you're absolutely right... good preventive maintenance saves a bundle.
I had the exact same thought! Even picked up a new container of it. When I got back and was getting ready to flush the water heater, I noticed the skull and crossbones on the container, and read all the warnings about avoiding skin contact etc, and decided that I'd risk a stuck anode rather than expose the water supply to that stuff. Good thought though.
This is a great comprehensive video!! The only thing I would suggest is, put a link to the original video, for reference. Thank you for your thoroughness.
I'm not sure, but I think it's the soaking that does the job. If the heater is pretty new, and therefore not much build-up, it might be fine. We always do the full treatment to be sure.
Sure thing. We bought ours at Canadian Tire in Abbotsford, BC. I remember because I was really surprised they carried them, and because we had to wait around for about 20 minutes for someone to open the locked case where they keep the sockets. lol Good luck finding one!
Use anti-seize on the threads or just use a little extra plumbers tape. I've never had a rod rust in place. That also is 2 years straight camping in all weather conditions while looking for a home.
There is a way to get vinegar into the tank without a winterizing kit, but it requires removing the overpressure relief valve. If you're able to unscrew it, you can use one of the long-neck flexible funnels (like the kind they use to add transmission fluid, available at auto parts stores) to add vinegar in through the opening the overpressure relief valve screws into. Hope that helps.
Unable to remove pressure relief valve; it is way tight and I’m concerned about forcing it. So my question: is my remaining alternative to run the vinegar/water mix into my gravity feed fresh holding tank then draw into the hot water tank? Thanks in advance for your advice.
In the future when you're gonna attempt to do plumbing repairs on rvs, especially on a hot water heaters try putting never seize on top of your telphon cover all the threads of adnoid rod. And do not use the pressure relief valve to depressurize the tank. This is a safety valve not a drain or depressurizing valve. Open a faucett to remove pressure or to vent tank to refill. Your safety valve will not weaken. Have a nice day. Big Daddy plumber of 31 years
I've had very good results removing the factory anode bung using a 6 point impact socket and an air or electric impact gun. Go slowly, reverse direction a few times if needed and don't over do it. It WILL come free.
Girard makes on-demand RV water heaters, but I believe they're propane-fired only, not electric. They're sold at Camping World, PPL, and other suppliers. Google "on demand rv water heater" for lots of info!
Thank you very much for the quick response regarding bleeding the air from the hot water system. I have another unrelated question and hope that maybe you've run across this challenge. I have a Suburban furnace that is ducted. It started turning off as it was heating the space before satisfying the t'stat setpoint. Through a process of trial and error, I determined that when I remove the front cover and allow the furnace to blow directly into the cabin instead of forcing it through the ducts, it ran continuously and eventually satisfied the t'stat and cycled off and on normally. I changed the high limit cutout switch thinking it had failed and saw no change. I believe with the door on, the temp is getting too high and the high limit is turning the unit off as it should. The only way to get the furnace to run again is by turning the t'stat to off then back on. Pretty annoying! I have searched for blogs, TH-cams, etc looking for someone with the same problem and/or fix with no luck. I have asked the service dept at Mike Thompsons and they seem to look at me with that Dear-In-The-Headlights look. I really don't want to leave the it with them because they are 2 hours away and all they will do is throw money at it. Any ideas?
We think you have a blockage in your ductwork. Maybe a mouse nest or a collapsed duct or some insulation in the way? If it works perfectly well when not blowing air through the ducts, then it's not the furnace itself, so that's our best guess. If you haven't already done so, we'd suggest posting your exact question on the iRV2 forums to see what other think. irv2.com/forums Hope this helps a little and please let us know how you make out.
If you can get that rod out, it could prevent having to replace the water heater sooner. If the rod is completely decayed, it will no longer protect the tank from corrosion. Try getting some Liquid Wrench penetrating oil at a hardware store, and apply it to the threads, then tap on it lightly with a hammer. Repeat several times to get the oil drawn into the threads. Then use a large, long-handled ratchet to try to move it. Careful no to force it. If it breaks, you'll need a new heater right now.
I found your video helpful. Thank you very much. It's great not having to "re-invent the wheel." While reading the comments below I saw the plumber's comment saying to NOT use the T&P valve to vent the tank. I had another plumber explain that these valves shouldn't be used this way because the valve seat could be corroded or debris could get stuck in the valve seat causing it not to properly seat again resulting in a leaky valve. I initially set out to look for a way to vent air and completely refill my Suburban WH after draining. I cant seem to get all the air out of the top of the WH tank which leaves a an air space which compresses as after the hot water faucet shuts off. This causes the pump to "slowly" shut of as it takes a few seconds for it to compress the air. I've bypassed the water heater and operated the faucet and confirmed that the pump works as designed and cycles off immediately. Any suggestions on how to bleed all the air out of the tank?
Hi William! Great question. First, plumbers are used to dealing with regular household systems, not RVs, so things are a bit different. A regular "sticks & bricks" homeowner does not need to flush out their hot water tank or re-set the air pocket at the top. Those tanks just leave whatever debris is in them in place, so we can certainly see why a plumber would recommend not opening the valve in that case. According to Suburban's instructions, the T&P valve must be opened to re-set the air pocket after draining and re-filling, but the reason this isn't a problem is because we've just completed a thorough flushing and cleaning of the tank, so there isn't any debris to get caught in the valve. We've never had any valve problem in over 11 years, but even if it were to leak, you could either flush it again by re-opening it, or replace it, which is not difficult or expensive. But like we said, in all these years, we've never had this happen. We'd suggest following the manufacturer's instructions and not worrying about it, especially because there's no other way to re-set the air pocket.
Thanks for the info! We'll soon be removing the magnesium anode we installed last year, and will report on what we find regarding its condition. I'm guessing that the zinc rod that was in there before didn't degrade properly because we're mostly in very low-mineral water areas. I sure would love to find a magnesium aftermarket rod with brass-in-brass threads, like the zinc one. Haven't seen one anywhere.
Good article, I find putting the original anode rod back in is difficult. I like the one you showed. I liked that you could drain your tank much easier if your going take store it longer then originally thought.
A full wrapping of the Anode with teflon tape will insulate the Anode from the water-heater therefore the Anode can not due it's job. Must maintain some conductivity between the anode with the water heater. Wrap only 2/3 of the threads;leave the front 1/3 bare.
Great video. Have had our Keystone Springdale 2004 for two years. First thing we replaced was the Anode Rod and of course, now that I want to flush the hot water tank, I can't get it off. My husband walked away in frustration. We are occasional users and I would let it go a bit more, however, every time I turn on the hot water it is yellow. Do you have a suggestion for me?
I liked your video it was very informative. about the anode getting rusted on the threads, I have found putting Teflon tape prior to install helps alot. And after I remove the anode rod after it finishes draining I use a thread chaser on the water heater and then dry the threads real good. I then leave the rod out, seal the opening with duck tape until I am ready to use again.
Thanks Martin. Great additional tips. Coincidentally, we just updated this video last week with an important change, and an internal before-and-after internal view on our borescope: th-cam.com/video/TL7AtXJYNcc/w-d-xo.html
If anode fitting breaks or is stuck due to corrosion, that does NOT mean a new water heater! I have removed broken and/or stuck fittings from all kinds of pressure vessels using the following method! First determine the O.D. "Outside Diameter" of the anode fitting then subtract 1/8 or 3/16 from that size, this will be the size of the drill bit you will need to bore out the inside of the fitting. Then Using a 1/8 - 1/4 inch bit, drill a pilot hole dead center "Find Center, Mark, Set Center with a Center Chisel and hammer" of the fitting using the low speed setting on the drill. Then using the bit that you subtracted 1/8 or 3/16 from the fitting O.D., drill out the fitting using the pilot hole as a guide, again using the low speed setting on the drill. Next, heat the fitting with a Pencil Torch until about it is about 250 - 300 f. Then using a Ease-Out bit that is 1/16 bigger than the hole you just drilled, tap with a hammer the Ease-Out into the hole, attach the Ease-Out to a long handle break over bar and apply a firm amount of pressure, then while one person holds pressure on the break over bar, tap firmly the swivel end of the break over bar with a hammer! The fitting will pop when it breaks loose! Because a significant amount of the fitting material has been removed by the drill bit and then heated, the fitting will expand and then contract, allowing the fitting to shrink smaller than its original size which will cause it to pull away from the tank threads and the heat helps to break the bond between the corrosion on the fitting and the water tank! I have saved multi-thousand dollar pressure vessels this way on diesel equipment including high temperature steam vessels! If in doubt, a plumber should be able to perform this procedure in less than a hour! This is the preferred tool for fitting removal once you have drilled out the anode fitting! It is similar to a Ease-out!, but for plumbing purposes! th-cam.com/video/n5lEcnZ1_m4/w-d-xo.html Show less
And if you do not have a Pencil Torch or are afraid of torches, then a tool rental store can lease you a inductive heating tool! No flames and is safer than a torch! th-cam.com/video/IAEMro1eL0A/w-d-xo.html
I would also make sure to rinse any metal surfaces that the vinegar may have come in contact with. It may be food, but it's still acid and can do a number on metal it stays in contact with.
When I drained and flushed out water heater, I had a ton of rocky and eggshell looking stuff come out, along with some pieces that looked like chunks of rust. The anode had never been replaced and it’s a 2019. We had popping noises coming from it, but other than that we didn’t have any issues with it. There was still a tiny bit left of the anode but it was mostly just a rusty stem. Should I be concerned about the water heater or is there anything else I should do. I don’t know how to fill it with vinegar because I don’t have the winterizing set up you do, but I flushed it really well and when I stick my finger it there, what I can feel feels smooth.
Use a nickel-based anti-seize UNDER the teflon tape on the anode rod plug before you put it back in. The torque on reinstall will sever some of the teflon tape covering, but the anti seize will provide a coating that will interrupt the corrosion cycle. The surrounding teflon tape will keep the anti-seize from "washing" out into the hot water supply. I also think y'all might have a parasitic electrical current reaching the anode rod receptacle. You COULD add a ground wire from that fitting or the metal chassis that it is attached to to a REAL ground rod that will shunt that current to ground and away from the metal to metal interface. But that is REALLY geeky, OCD, and a pain to drive a ground rod to wet soil every time you stop, but might work for storage.
With the brass fitted aluminum/zinc anode rod, I would bet it would keep your tank alive for as long as you have your RV. and you'd not have to replace it for a long time if ever.
Hello - Thank you for this video. I do not seem to be able to find pure white vinegar and from what I have read, distilled white vinegar is a different acidity. What should I use if I can't get the pure white version?
Whichever you can find is fine. Typically, the difference in acidity between them is about 1%... not enough to make a huge difference. CLEANING vinegar can be 10-20% strength, which could be too acidic and require more dilution (less vinegar, more water).
@RVgeeks: Is there a workaround for RVs w/o winterization kit? My Keystone doesn't have one and I would like to apply your cleaning procedure. Love your videos. Thanks for sharing!
Hi Christoph! The easiest workaround we can think of is to install an aftermarket winterizing kit. They should be readily available, not too expensive and reasonably easy to install. And they're so useful for water heater cleaning, fresh water tank sanitizing and of course, winterizing. 😉
So far that isn't happening. I've even sprayed some WD40 and taken a wire brush to it. I have placed a block under the sock extension to keep me from pushing down when I try with all my might to turn the socket. Should I try something other than WD-40? P.S. I know this video was about cleaning the hot water tank but I like so many people have a tank that only heats with propane. Shouldn't the burners be checked for debris? I used some canned air and blew out the burners and was shocked at how much debris came out. Mary Poppins and the chimney sweepers came to mine, so much debris! So don't the electric ones need to be cleaned out also?
+B Cobler We had the same problem with the anode being stuck. Try Liquid Wrench penetrating oil. Apply some, tap lightly with a hammer (the vibration helps draw it into the threads), repeat, repeat, repeat. Be patient and keep trying. That stuff is your best shot at not breaking the fitting by forcing too hard. As far as cleaning - if it ain't broke, leave well enough alone! 😉
Thank you, thank you. Purchased some Liquid Wrench, sprayed it on, walked away, came back two hours later and it came out. You guys are the best! Wish I had your little camera so I can see what it looks like inside because I didn't get much debris.
Hi Morgan! We had some concern about putting a chemical like that in contact with the water, so we haven’t tried it before. Luckily our new anode rods have been working fine, and decaying as they should, since they are OEM.
Suburban ships their tanks with plumbers tape installed on the anode rod from the factory, and we have been doing the same thing for 16 years that we’ve owned this rig with no problem. The steel threads apparently cut through the tape enough to make a good connection while still staying waterproof.
it's probably a stupid question but i'm changing my anode and the rod doesn't screw all the way to the end of the thread ….have i stuffed something up ?
Sorry we've been lucky enough that we've never had to change a heating element (and we have a Suburban heater). The service manual is probably available on Atwood's website, and surely has information about that, since it's a pretty standard task. Sorry we couldn't be of more help on this one.
Hmmm... it's certainly possible that the pressure in the water heater is too high, causing the lines to leak (although it could also be a loose connection or a crack/split in a line, too). If you suspect that's the problem, the first thing we'd suggest is re-establishing the proper air gap in the top of the tank. If the air gap has been reduced, then the pressure could get too high when the water heats. You can read it on page 6 of the PDF of the Suburban Water Heater manual here: olivertraveltrailers.com/wp-content/uploads/oliver-university/Component_Manuals/Water_Heater/Suburban_Gas_Water_Heater_Manual.pdf But here are the steps: 1. Turn off water heater. 2. Turn off the water supply to the RV (city water OR pump) 3. Open a faucet in the RV 4. Pull out on the handle of the Pressure Relief (P & T) Valve and allow water to flow from the valve until it stops. 5. Release handle on P & T Valve - it should snap closed. 6. Close the faucet in the RV and turn on the water supply; as the tank fills, the proper air pocket will develop. If that doesn't solve the problem, it's POSSIBLE that your thermostat is failing and allowing the water to get too hot and, therefore, creating too much pressure in the tank (although we would expect the Pressure Relief valve would weep, too). So you could try replacing the thermostat(s)... we have a video about that: th-cam.com/video/juxiuD3taSw/w-d-xo.html If NEITHER of the above solves the problem... it's possible you have a crack in a fitting or pipe that's causing the problem. That could also be something that only shows its face when the pressure builds when the water heats (or because the heat causes a fitting/pipe to expand... which expands the crack). Hope this helps... and let us know how you make out!
@@RVgeeks yeah, the pipe connections could be failing because it leaks by the shower faucet--water comes out from under the tub--and by the kitchen faucet and maybe on the line behind the toilet. They trailer is a '97 and temps range from 27 to 84 or 87 inside. I didn't know about the air pocket. Pressure relief valve stays dry. Thermostat has 2 unmarked black buttons. One guy told me one is for the thermostat and the other is the echo. I'll try you suggestions.
@Mt Ns - could be that the pressure when the water heats is exposing weaknesses in other fittings. Those two black buttons should both be thermostats. They call one the "ECO" (or something like that), but typically one is the propane thermostat... and the other the 110V thermostat (set slightly higher so that the bias is toward electric heating if you have both turned on... the propane thermostat kicks off first on heating... and back on last as water's being used up). Re-establishing the air gap COULD help drop the system pressure enough to reduce/eliminate the leaks... but we'd be concerned they're only gonna worsen over time, so you'll likely have to deal with them at some point soon (if they're PEX pipes, the fittings are fairly easy to replace... we thought PEX would be hard to work with, but it's amazingly easy... just be sure the cuts are straight since clean cuts make the difference on ensuring a good tight seal on the fitting)... and the crimping tool is real easy to use. th-cam.com/video/MjyU2eClPcA/w-d-xo.html
I had to giggle a little when you talk about being worried that some anti seize may come in contact with your water. Where do you suppose all that Heavy metal from the anode is going?
UPDATE: THIS WATER HEATER CLEANING METHOD HAS BEEN UPDATED WITH IMPORTANT CHANGES. CLICK HERE TO SEE THE NEW TECHNIQUE: th-cam.com/video/TL7AtXJYNcc/w-d-xo.html
Beware. The caulk seal at the bottom between the water heater and the outside trim prevents water from getting into the inside wall cavity. In my case, my 2014 Rockwood ended up leaking my vinegar water underneath the trailer and also showed up inside on the floor. The abundance of water exiting the anode hole flooded over the caulk and also under the caulk. The caulk appears fine. Thank You for excellent the video
wow perfect timing. I just bought a used travel trailer and the 'instructions' that came with it were very vague. We turned the city water on and didn't know the anode was out. The former owner had only used it a couple of times and had it serviced yearly by the camper dealer so he didn't know anything useful. Now I have a better understanding of the what and why of it... Thanks.
Very well explained. I use my water heater quite often as I mobile dog groom. I frequently inspect and change my anode rod a few times a year. Am hearing a whistle sound so will do an inspection on the element and check valve next. I didn't know how to get vinagar into the tank, so I appreciate your TH-cam
Thanks very much for the tip. I'm going to have to borrow a dremel tool and give this a try. And you're absolutely right... good preventive maintenance saves a bundle.
I had the exact same thought! Even picked up a new container of it. When I got back and was getting ready to flush the water heater, I noticed the skull and crossbones on the container, and read all the warnings about avoiding skin contact etc, and decided that I'd risk a stuck anode rather than expose the water supply to that stuff. Good thought though.
This is a great comprehensive video!! The only thing I would suggest is, put a link to the original video, for reference.
Thank you for your thoroughness.
If you use pipe thread seal tape you should have no worries about removing anode at next inspection.
I'm not sure, but I think it's the soaking that does the job. If the heater is pretty new, and therefore not much build-up, it might be fine. We always do the full treatment to be sure.
Sure thing. We bought ours at Canadian Tire in Abbotsford, BC. I remember because I was really surprised they carried them, and because we had to wait around for about 20 minutes for someone to open the locked case where they keep the sockets. lol Good luck finding one!
Use anti-seize on the threads or just use a little extra plumbers tape. I've never had a rod rust in place. That also is 2 years straight camping in all weather conditions while looking for a home.
There is a way to get vinegar into the tank without a winterizing kit, but it requires removing the overpressure relief valve. If you're able to unscrew it, you can use one of the long-neck flexible funnels (like the kind they use to add transmission fluid, available at auto parts stores) to add vinegar in through the opening the overpressure relief valve screws into. Hope that helps.
Unable to remove pressure relief valve; it is way tight and I’m concerned about forcing it. So my question: is my remaining alternative to run the vinegar/water mix into my gravity feed fresh holding tank then draw into the hot water tank? Thanks in advance for your advice.
In the future when you're gonna attempt to do plumbing repairs on rvs, especially on a hot water heaters try putting never seize on top of your telphon cover all the threads of adnoid rod. And do not use the pressure relief valve to depressurize the tank. This is a safety valve not a drain or depressurizing valve. Open a faucett to remove pressure or to vent tank to refill. Your safety valve will not weaken. Have a nice day. Big Daddy plumber of 31 years
I've had very good results removing the factory anode bung using a 6 point impact socket and an air or electric impact gun. Go slowly, reverse direction a few times if needed and don't over do it. It WILL come free.
Congratulations on your new RV, Ann! Glad we could be of help. :)
You can buy a "Tap" and use that to clean out the threads. Take it slow backing it out a bit if it meets resistance.
Girard makes on-demand RV water heaters, but I believe they're propane-fired only, not electric. They're sold at Camping World, PPL, and other suppliers. Google "on demand rv water heater" for lots of info!
Thank you very much for the quick response regarding bleeding the air from the hot water system.
I have another unrelated question and hope that maybe you've run across this challenge. I have a Suburban furnace that is ducted. It started turning off as it was heating the space before satisfying the t'stat setpoint. Through a process of trial and error, I determined that when I remove the front cover and allow the furnace to blow directly into the cabin instead of forcing it through the ducts, it ran continuously and eventually satisfied the t'stat and cycled off and on normally. I changed the high limit cutout switch thinking it had failed and saw no change. I believe with the door on, the temp is getting too high and the high limit is turning the unit off as it should. The only way to get the furnace to run again is by turning the t'stat to off then back on. Pretty annoying!
I have searched for blogs, TH-cams, etc looking for someone with the same problem and/or fix with no luck. I have asked the service dept at Mike Thompsons and they seem to look at me with that Dear-In-The-Headlights look. I really don't want to leave the it with them because they are 2 hours away and all they will do is throw money at it. Any ideas?
We think you have a blockage in your ductwork. Maybe a mouse nest or a collapsed duct or some insulation in the way? If it works perfectly well when not blowing air through the ducts, then it's not the furnace itself, so that's our best guess. If you haven't already done so, we'd suggest posting your exact question on the iRV2 forums to see what other think. irv2.com/forums Hope this helps a little and please let us know how you make out.
Use anti-seize to keep anode base from freezing to the tank.
If you can get that rod out, it could prevent having to replace the water heater sooner. If the rod is completely decayed, it will no longer protect the tank from corrosion. Try getting some Liquid Wrench penetrating oil at a hardware store, and apply it to the threads, then tap on it lightly with a hammer. Repeat several times to get the oil drawn into the threads. Then use a large, long-handled ratchet to try to move it. Careful no to force it. If it breaks, you'll need a new heater right now.
If it breaks, see my procedure for removing a broken or stuck anode!
I found your video helpful. Thank you very much. It's great not having to "re-invent the wheel." While reading the comments below I saw the plumber's comment saying to NOT use the T&P valve to vent the tank. I had another plumber explain that these valves shouldn't be used this way because the valve seat could be corroded or debris could get stuck in the valve seat causing it not to properly seat again resulting in a leaky valve. I initially set out to look for a way to vent air and completely refill my Suburban WH after draining. I cant seem to get all the air out of the top of the WH tank which leaves a an air space which compresses as after the hot water faucet shuts off. This causes the pump to "slowly" shut of as it takes a few seconds for it to compress the air. I've bypassed the water heater and operated the faucet and confirmed that the pump works as designed and cycles off immediately. Any suggestions on how to bleed all the air out of the tank?
Hi William! Great question. First, plumbers are used to dealing with regular household systems, not RVs, so things are a bit different. A regular "sticks & bricks" homeowner does not need to flush out their hot water tank or re-set the air pocket at the top. Those tanks just leave whatever debris is in them in place, so we can certainly see why a plumber would recommend not opening the valve in that case.
According to Suburban's instructions, the T&P valve must be opened to re-set the air pocket after draining and re-filling, but the reason this isn't a problem is because we've just completed a thorough flushing and cleaning of the tank, so there isn't any debris to get caught in the valve. We've never had any valve problem in over 11 years, but even if it were to leak, you could either flush it again by re-opening it, or replace it, which is not difficult or expensive. But like we said, in all these years, we've never had this happen. We'd suggest following the manufacturer's instructions and not worrying about it, especially because there's no other way to re-set the air pocket.
Thanks for the info! We'll soon be removing the magnesium anode we installed last year, and will report on what we find regarding its condition. I'm guessing that the zinc rod that was in there before didn't degrade properly because we're mostly in very low-mineral water areas. I sure would love to find a magnesium aftermarket rod with brass-in-brass threads, like the zinc one. Haven't seen one anywhere.
Good article, I find putting the original anode rod back in is difficult. I like the one you showed. I liked that you could drain your tank much easier if your going take store it longer then originally thought.
A full wrapping of the Anode with teflon tape will insulate the Anode from the water-heater therefore the Anode can not due it's job. Must maintain some conductivity between the anode with the water heater. Wrap only 2/3 of the threads;leave the front 1/3 bare.
Great video. Have had our Keystone Springdale 2004 for two years. First thing we replaced was the Anode Rod and of course, now that I want to flush the hot water tank, I can't get it off. My husband walked away in frustration. We are occasional users and I would let it go a bit more, however, every time I turn on the hot water it is yellow. Do you have a suggestion for me?
Yes, see my procedure for a stuck or broken anode!
I liked your video it was very informative. about the anode getting rusted on the threads, I have found putting Teflon tape prior to install helps alot. And after I remove the anode rod after it finishes draining I use a thread chaser on the water heater and then dry the threads real good. I then leave the rod out, seal the opening with duck tape until I am ready to use again.
Thanks Martin. Great additional tips. Coincidentally, we just updated this video last week with an important change, and an internal before-and-after internal view on our borescope: th-cam.com/video/TL7AtXJYNcc/w-d-xo.html
Question for you, if you do not have a winterizing fill kit on your RV where and how do you add the vinegar?
If anode fitting breaks or is stuck due to corrosion, that does NOT mean a new water heater! I have removed broken and/or stuck fittings from all kinds of pressure vessels using the following method! First determine the O.D. "Outside Diameter" of the anode fitting then subtract 1/8 or 3/16 from that size, this will be the size of the drill bit you will need to bore out the inside of the fitting. Then Using a 1/8 - 1/4 inch bit, drill a pilot hole dead center "Find Center, Mark, Set Center with a Center Chisel and hammer" of the fitting using the low speed setting on the drill. Then using the bit that you subtracted 1/8 or 3/16 from the fitting O.D., drill out the fitting using the pilot hole as a guide, again using the low speed setting on the drill. Next, heat the fitting with a Pencil Torch until about it is about 250 - 300 f. Then using a Ease-Out bit that is 1/16 bigger than the hole you just drilled, tap with a hammer the Ease-Out into the hole, attach the Ease-Out to a long handle break over bar and apply a firm amount of pressure, then while one person holds pressure on the break over bar, tap firmly the swivel end of the break over bar with a hammer! The fitting will pop when it breaks loose! Because a significant amount of the fitting material has been removed by the drill bit and then heated, the fitting will expand and then contract, allowing the fitting to shrink smaller than its original size which will cause it to pull away from the tank threads and the heat helps to break the bond between the corrosion on the fitting and the water tank! I have saved multi-thousand dollar pressure vessels this way on diesel equipment including high temperature steam vessels! If in doubt, a plumber should be able to perform this procedure in less than a hour!
This is the preferred tool for fitting removal once you have drilled out the anode fitting! It is similar to a Ease-out!, but for plumbing purposes!
th-cam.com/video/n5lEcnZ1_m4/w-d-xo.html
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And if you do not have a Pencil Torch or are afraid of torches, then a tool rental store can lease you a inductive heating tool! No flames and is safer than a torch!
th-cam.com/video/IAEMro1eL0A/w-d-xo.html
I would also make sure to rinse any metal surfaces that the vinegar may have come in contact with. It may be food, but it's still acid and can do a number on metal it stays in contact with.
When I drained and flushed out water heater, I had a ton of rocky and eggshell looking stuff come out, along with some pieces that looked like chunks of rust. The anode had never been replaced and it’s a 2019. We had popping noises coming from it, but other than that we didn’t have any issues with it. There was still a tiny bit left of the anode but it was mostly just a rusty stem. Should I be concerned about the water heater or is there anything else I should do. I don’t know how to fill it with vinegar because I don’t have the winterizing set up you do, but I flushed it really well and when I stick my finger it there, what I can feel feels smooth.
Use a nickel-based anti-seize UNDER the teflon tape on the anode rod plug before you put it back in. The torque on reinstall will sever some of the teflon tape covering, but the anti seize will provide a coating that will interrupt the corrosion cycle. The surrounding teflon tape will keep the anti-seize from "washing" out into the hot water supply.
I also think y'all might have a parasitic electrical current reaching the anode rod receptacle. You COULD add a ground wire from that fitting or the metal chassis that it is attached to to a REAL ground rod that will shunt that current to ground and away from the metal to metal interface. But that is REALLY geeky, OCD, and a pain to drive a ground rod to wet soil every time you stop, but might work for storage.
Just a note:
As long as the fittings are electrically conductive on the new anode rod...it will work just fine as a sacrificial anode.
With the brass fitted aluminum/zinc anode rod, I would bet it would keep your tank alive for as long as you have your RV. and you'd not have to replace it for a long time if ever.
I have the same problem and mine is a 2013 Viking. Completely frustrating. Have you had any luck since you posted?
Thank you yet again another great video about a very common situation
Hello - Thank you for this video. I do not seem to be able to find pure white vinegar and from what I have read, distilled white vinegar is a different acidity. What should I use if I can't get the pure white version?
Whichever you can find is fine. Typically, the difference in acidity between them is about 1%... not enough to make a huge difference. CLEANING vinegar can be 10-20% strength, which could be too acidic and require more dilution (less vinegar, more water).
@RVgeeks: Is there a workaround for RVs w/o winterization kit? My Keystone doesn't have one and I would like to apply your cleaning procedure. Love your videos. Thanks for sharing!
Hi Christoph! The easiest workaround we can think of is to install an aftermarket winterizing kit. They should be readily available, not too expensive and reasonably easy to install. And they're so useful for water heater cleaning, fresh water tank sanitizing and of course, winterizing. 😉
I want to know just how you got the anode rod out originally. Any tips you provide will be appreciated.
+B Cobler With a big socket wrench.
So far that isn't happening. I've even sprayed some WD40 and taken a wire brush to it. I have placed a block under the sock extension to keep me from pushing down when I try with all my might to turn the socket. Should I try something other than WD-40?
P.S. I know this video was about cleaning the hot water tank but I like so many people have a tank that only heats with propane. Shouldn't the burners be checked for debris? I used some canned air and blew out the burners and was shocked at how much debris came out. Mary Poppins and the chimney sweepers came to mine, so much debris! So don't the electric ones need to be cleaned out also?
+B Cobler We had the same problem with the anode being stuck. Try Liquid Wrench penetrating oil. Apply some, tap lightly with a hammer (the vibration helps draw it into the threads), repeat, repeat, repeat. Be patient and keep trying. That stuff is your best shot at not breaking the fitting by forcing too hard. As far as cleaning - if it ain't broke, leave well enough alone! 😉
Thanks I'll give it a try. I had never heard of Liquid Wrench.
Thank you, thank you. Purchased some Liquid Wrench, sprayed it on, walked away, came back two hours later and it came out. You guys are the best! Wish I had your little camera so I can see what it looks like inside because I didn't get much debris.
Hey Peter, have you 2 tried never seize before on your anode rod? I know you mentioned about that you have had problems getting the rod out before.
Hi Morgan! We had some concern about putting a chemical like that in contact with the water, so we haven’t tried it before. Luckily our new anode rods have been working fine, and decaying as they should, since they are OEM.
Doesn’t the Teflon tape isolate the anode, rendering the anode ineffective?
Great question! The metal threads cut through the tape enough to make contact with each other, so the anode can do its job.
Do you have a brand name for that flushing wand you used? Having trouble finding one similar.
thanks
This is the link from the video description. Should still work! Water Heater Tank Rinser: amzn.to/2DX1FDf
What size socket did you have to use?
Charlie Cash 1/16. The other one is a mystery
You could try to use a grounding cable for the after market rod. that will improve conductivity.
Conductivity is very important sacrificial zink rods need to be grounded to the tank to work properly. No tape.
I think you should revise your blog.
Suburban ships their tanks with plumbers tape installed on the anode rod from the factory, and we have been doing the same thing for 16 years that we’ve owned this rig with no problem. The steel threads apparently cut through the tape enough to make a good connection while still staying waterproof.
it's probably a stupid question but i'm changing my anode and the rod doesn't screw all the way to the end of the thread ….have i stuffed something up ?
but i've measured the inside of the tank and the rod is shorter than the length of the tank...
owlllover Don't worry if some of the threads are still visible. That's normal. If the rod is tight and doesn't leak, you're fine.
RVgeeks thank you !!! I was a bit worried and thanks for your speedy reply will go and fill the tank now lol
use rector seal or other thread sealant. Don't use teflon tape or it will be hard to get off.
thank u!! havent purchased yet, learning the ropes first . geeks u rock!!
Wow so much to do with the RV but after a while I should be used to it. Again thanx for the video.
how do you change a heater element on an Atwood model 93235?
Sorry we've been lucky enough that we've never had to change a heating element (and we have a Suburban heater). The service manual is probably available on Atwood's website, and surely has information about that, since it's a pretty standard task. Sorry we couldn't be of more help on this one.
Suburban also makes an OE anode in aluminum for their water heaters.
My water lines leak when I have the water heater on. Does that mean it's too hot and raising the pressure?
Hmmm... it's certainly possible that the pressure in the water heater is too high, causing the lines to leak (although it could also be a loose connection or a crack/split in a line, too). If you suspect that's the problem, the first thing we'd suggest is re-establishing the proper air gap in the top of the tank. If the air gap has been reduced, then the pressure could get too high when the water heats. You can read it on page 6 of the PDF of the Suburban Water Heater manual here: olivertraveltrailers.com/wp-content/uploads/oliver-university/Component_Manuals/Water_Heater/Suburban_Gas_Water_Heater_Manual.pdf
But here are the steps:
1. Turn off water heater.
2. Turn off the water supply to the RV (city water OR pump)
3. Open a faucet in the RV
4. Pull out on the handle of the Pressure Relief (P & T) Valve and allow water to flow from the valve until it stops.
5. Release handle on P & T Valve - it should snap closed.
6. Close the faucet in the RV and turn on the water supply; as the tank fills, the proper air pocket will develop.
If that doesn't solve the problem, it's POSSIBLE that your thermostat is failing and allowing the water to get too hot and, therefore, creating too much pressure in the tank (although we would expect the Pressure Relief valve would weep, too). So you could try replacing the thermostat(s)... we have a video about that: th-cam.com/video/juxiuD3taSw/w-d-xo.html
If NEITHER of the above solves the problem... it's possible you have a crack in a fitting or pipe that's causing the problem. That could also be something that only shows its face when the pressure builds when the water heats (or because the heat causes a fitting/pipe to expand... which expands the crack).
Hope this helps... and let us know how you make out!
@@RVgeeks yeah, the pipe connections could be failing because it leaks by the shower faucet--water comes out from under the tub--and by the kitchen faucet and maybe on the line behind the toilet. They trailer is a '97 and temps range from 27 to 84 or 87 inside. I didn't know about the air pocket. Pressure relief valve stays dry. Thermostat has 2 unmarked black buttons. One guy told me one is for the thermostat and the other is the echo. I'll try you suggestions.
@Mt Ns - could be that the pressure when the water heats is exposing weaknesses in other fittings. Those two black buttons should both be thermostats. They call one the "ECO" (or something like that), but typically one is the propane thermostat... and the other the 110V thermostat (set slightly higher so that the bias is toward electric heating if you have both turned on... the propane thermostat kicks off first on heating... and back on last as water's being used up). Re-establishing the air gap COULD help drop the system pressure enough to reduce/eliminate the leaks... but we'd be concerned they're only gonna worsen over time, so you'll likely have to deal with them at some point soon (if they're PEX pipes, the fittings are fairly easy to replace... we thought PEX would be hard to work with, but it's amazingly easy... just be sure the cuts are straight since clean cuts make the difference on ensuring a good tight seal on the fitting)... and the crimping tool is real easy to use. th-cam.com/video/MjyU2eClPcA/w-d-xo.html
this is so coooooool!! i want an rv now haha
this is an extremely good video
I love your videos! Thanks!
I had to giggle a little when you talk about being worried that some anti seize may come in contact with your water. Where do you suppose all that Heavy metal from the anode is going?
Very good point thank you
Put never seize on top of the tape. It should come out easier next time.
Good info
I thought you said a suburban heater doesn't take an anode rod 🤔
Hi Genevieve! Suburban heaters have steel tanks, so they use anode rods. Atwood heaters have aluminum tanks, so no anode rod is needed.
@@RVgeeks 🙃 thanks I got mixed up..
Anti-Seize on the steel threads
Leaking from all fittings after 14 months