THANK YOU SO MUCH for this awesome video! I have a 2010 Odyssey that I needed to replace the fuel sensor cable, and I found real basic instructions to do that but not for how to remove the inside panels then put it all back together. I didn’t need the cable part of the video, so I skipped past that, but your very detailed video saved me hundreds of dollars that the dealer was going to charge me! Can’t thank you enough! Oh and by the way, your video was so easy to follow, this Mom was able to do this inside panel removal and replacement with no help from anyone! Wahoo!
This is exactly what I needed! Thank you for taking the time to record putting things back in place and not just stopping after the cable was repaired. Fantastic video!
Holy crap! Thank you. That is an amazing how to. Not looking forward to tackling that one on my van but your patience and perseverance are absolutely inspiring.
Gabe, you were a life saver. I had the laptop out in the driveway with me as I followed your steps to fix the roller motor. I really appreciate this video--saved lots of $$ for sure!
Excellent video. Excellent explanation step by step. Showing the same obstacles that I found. Greatly explained. Even the kid in the background would learn how to do it. Thanks
kudos to your video, my 2008 Odyssey had the cable snap/break, etc... I followed your video step by step and I got lucky that my cables were still intact. It was the roller that had gotten damaged and released the cables, then ended up going into the panel. This only difference I came upon my cables and yours is that in the spool the back cable actually goes to the front and the front cable goes to the back, with the front cable actually going in first. Other than that your video saved me lots of money. Thank you so much. working like a charm once again.. 09/08/2017
Thanks for the video, replaced my Honda van's cable this week. It turns out that my cable broke because the roll assembly lost one of the wheels. I only had to replace the rear cable, so I reused the end piece that attaches to the roller assembly. Thanks again for the awesome video.
Thanks for the video. While my problem was with the right side sliding door where the cable broke and prevented the door from opening because the other cable was jammed in the motor housing, it helped. Mine was a little more complicated since the door wouldn't open, I couldn't remove the door sill and thus was not able to fully remove the side panel, so I had to work over the top of the panel or behind it. Ultimately I was able to open the motor housing, and cut the cable there which allowed the door to open. I then removed the door sill and panel, removed the spool and all the cables, and reassembled everything. I then worked on the outside to remove the cables from the door. It is now manual, and I'm not sure if the spool is in good enough condition to get new cables. As far as some wondering if using the door manually causes problems, I'd like to say from 2 years of experience with the Left door operating manually (I had a local shop do it since I didn't have time to address it at the time) I never had a problem other than a message to check the left sliding door to appear in the MID and the "i" symbol being lit. Interestingly enough, after the battery was disconnected and the door switch in the off position, I no longer get any warning messages for either sliding door.
You are brave. I just closed the door while van was inclined front and it snapped the cable !! I was reverse parked in a loading dock to pick some stuff from a store and this happened
Excellent video. I actually did the video for the 2nd gen cable repair a few years ago. Although there are some differences between the Gen 2 and 3, the principles are still the same. Notable differences I saw were how the new tensioner adjustments, and the fact that Honda now uses uncoated cable.I think I would have been leery making that splice repair you made in fear it would slip out, and just run a brand new cable. But if it works and lasts, great. Also what I did at the rollers was double loop the cable into the ground lug hole so the clamp screw had more to bite onto and less likely for the cable to slip out. Also dipped the ends in epoxy for extra strength and less likely to slip out.I
Great tips! Honda still does use a coated cable, but it's thinner than the 2nd gen. I replaced it with uncoated, since it was easier to find at the right size. I did think about running a whole new cable instead of making that splice, but it was getting late in the day and I was tired and didn't want to open up the motor again :) That motor is so finnicky to keep together once you open it up. Thanks for your video! It was immensely helpful when we had our '02 Odyssey and the cable snapped. When we bought this one, both doors wouldn't close. It gave me leverage with the dealership since we negotiated the price knowing it costs almost $1k/door to fix, but also knowing I was just going to fix it myself :) The popularity of this issue is amazing. I really didn't think this would be a popular video, but it's become one of my most-watched videos.
Just got done with a 2009, would have posted a video, but therewould have been to many beeeps for my colorful language during the process. Your video definitely helped.
Awsome video. Thank you for your detailed explanation. Much needed. This should receive a Million views easily. It seems like a common problem. My passenger door has a problem not opening.
Wow man. Your very patient.I know you can just open and close the door by hand but I guess it’s nice to have it working power. But honestly after watching 25% of this video I’ think I’m gonna close it by hand. Too much work for something you really don’t need. Plus the fact there’s 100 of these vans in thw junkyard and 100 of them have something missing off the cable system so that means this is a common problem and you did it twice so no way can I do all this work and have it break again. Thanks for the video.
I don't blame you! It is pretty annoying to put together. It's a whole lot easier if you just buy the whole motor assembly, but it's not cheap. Even sites like Bernardi Parts or Conicelli that sell new OEM parts for about the cheapest you'll find anywhere are still ~$300: www.conicellihondaparts.com/auto-parts/2009/honda/odyssey-5-door/exl-res-trim/5-speed-automatic-engine/body-air-conditioning-cat/slide-door-motors-scat
I recognized every mastercraft tool you have because I have the same ones 😀. I had a cable slip out of the motor housing on an old 02 odyssey and now I have a broken cable on a 06 odyssey.
🙂 I love the Mastercraft hand tools for the lifetime warranty. I've had to get replacements a few times. It's awesome. I hope you get your cable fixed up! It's a bit frustrating, but it's doable.
Here I see yours is already open, I'm unable to open our close mine manually or with power mode. I don't know if whatever the switch by the steering wheel actually does is broken, but I've not seen much info on the switch itself anywhere😢
If you turn the main switch to off (beside the steering wheel) it should disengage the door motor so you can open it manually. If the door doesn't unlatch when you pull the handle, then it's either locked (so unlock it) or there's something wrong with the latch. If the door unlatches but you can't move it, that means the cable probably broke and it's jammed in something. In that case, you'll have to cut the cable however you can.
Excellent video, thank you! I was able to follow your instructions and get my whole cable replaced on the driver's side. It works in manual position, but now the motor won't run. I tried pulling fuses and resetting them several times. I also tried disconnecting the battery, and also one or two other "reset" ideas. Still, the driver's side motor doesn't engage. Any ideas?
Have you tried manually opening all the way and closing all the way? I know I needed to at least close it all the way before the motor would kick in again.
I found that the pulley that winds the cable is in pretty rough shape.. I bought new cables, but Honda doesn't sell a replacement pulley apart from the whole assembly, so I am thinking of just pulling the old cable out and using the door manually... but, will the car's computer know when the door is open/closed? ..will it drain the battery?
The computer will know when the door is open or closed, but you will have a light in the dash indicating that there's a problem with the door. It won't drain the battery. A problem with the rear door latch will drain the battery. But if your door closes fully, then you don't have that problem.
hey gabe's hack i got a used one and i put it on the the van and it work. i try it but my friend mom going scrap the van so i took the part fr-om the that van and put it on my and it work
My door is stuck open, I wouldn't be able to do any of this stuff. I can see the cable is slack and hanging out, so I'm assuming that's the problem (or part of it at least). I have no problem with the door being manual, can I just snip that cord and pull it out to get the door to close?
Yes, you can cut the cable back so you can't see it anymore and just leave it like that and use it manually. You will need to cut the cable at the back and the front of the door.
My electrician have cut the cable to make it a manual door. It worked for a week (on occasion it was stiff to open) - but week after it’s completely stuck closed, and seems locked somewhere inside. I can’t manually open it even playing with various settings on the label, and the manual locking lever. Would you know by any chance what could be the issue? It’s Honda Stepwagoon 2004. Thank you
How many feet of cable for the close/open function should I cut? Fixing it for a friend who had somebody just snip the cable previously so I have nothing to go off of. Thanks in advance!
Victor Villarini In the description of this video there's a link to written instructions, which has the measurements. It's about 66" for the piece toward the front, and 62" for the back piece. If you have both pieces of the snipped wire, you could measure what you have just to make sure.
@@DavidHernandez-ue4fz I don't remember David. I was stressed and kept stopping. Didn't do it in one day. Getting the cable to stay put so you can put the assembly back on was the biggest issue for me. I didn't do the door thing, just the cable.
The cabe on my 2004 Odyssey broke and the dealer said the cable is part of a whole motor assembly which cost 1300$ not include labor. Holy crap! I wrapped up the cables and dont use the door. When time permit, i will try to open the darn thing out and will try to replace it with a 3/32 cable from Home Depot.
The 99-2004 is a bit different. The is a video that can't find right now, but read this if you haven't already: www.odyclub.com/forums/24-1999-2004-odyssey/154039-diy-fix-sliding-door-cable-using-parts-under-10-a.html#/topics/154039
Mine broke while closing, so it was already open. If you can't open yours (even after turning off the main switch beside the steering wheel) then you'll have to cut the front cable to get it open.
@@hayyat9301 I used a rotary tool with a cutoff wheel, which you can see starting at 15:28 You can try regular wire cutters, but they didn't work for me, although the stock cable is thinner than what I replaced it with. You may be able to use bolt cutters too, if you have them.
Gabe, thanks for the video! Long story but I ended up cutting my wire cable about 6" above and to the right of the gas cap. I did this because the door was severely jammed and my wife was in a rush and had to leave and I didn't know what I was doing at the time... I was thinking to myself "wires are cheap and easy to replace, right?". Question: if the wire is still available on both ends and didn't slip back inside the guide holes... is it possible to clamp them together rather than trying to replace and feed the whole wire again? I am going to buy a new roller assembly and am hoping I can do this in the process. Also, I believe the motor is fine but I didn't hear it the last time I tested it... this may be because there is no cable tension at the moment? Any help/advice is appreciated... Thanks! ps. I was hoping there would be a repair kit online for this sort of thing but I guess there is not?
How far was your cut away from the roller? Closer the better. Your splice cannot be in a spot that gets pulled into the inside, since there simply isn't enough room for anything bigger than the cable itself. If it's at a spot that is always outside, then you should be fine to splice it.
Thanks Gabe I will have to check. Is it okay to have the spliced wire roll through the roller mechanism? and I guess to connect the broken wire I can use some kind of wire clamp?
You can try, but I doubt it. You would need a type of splice that would not add much to the diameter of the wire, and be small or flexible enough to go around the roller. If you had access to a welder, maybe you could weld the cable back together. But I'm not a welder, so I don't know if that would even work.
I wonder if any of these cables are the right one? I have been looking around: www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2386202.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XOdyssey+Side+Sliding+Door-Cable+.TRS1&_nkw=Odyssey+Side+Sliding+Door-Cable+&_sacat=0
Actually, now that I'm looking at the roller assembly, it doesn't look like the wire needs to go around it, but just needs to be strong enough to pull it one way or the other. So I may try to connect them back together with a crimp or something similar and then add then add some solder to reinforce.
Well, I'm back. This summer I replaced center roller on the drivers side and ended up needing to reroll the cable [2007 Odyssey]. All was well until yesterday and the door kept popping back open. It finally just stayed open and won't budge. I've tried everything. I didn't use new cable & wish I had. I took of the panel that covers the roller and there was a piece of plastic from the cable just kind of hanging there. Took it off. But I'm thinking there are places in the cable that have the same problem and won't slide through from the inside so the door will shut. Desperate to get the door shut. If the cable is the problem, I'm thinking about cutting it so I can manually shut the door? Suggestions Gabe?
If you can't move the door manually, then the cable is jammed somewhere, probably inside the motor unfortunately :( The popping back open is likely the rear latch inside the door. One of the microswitches inside tells the computer that the door is closed. So if that malfunctions, the computer doesn't know the door is closed and the motor keeps running and only stops when the motor can't turn. That puts strain on the cable. So it's possible that repeated strain snapped the cable and now you have two problems. You can either replace that latch or open it up and clean it. See the second and third posts in this thread: www.odyclub.com/threads/2005-ody-ls-sliding-door-latch.54192/ And here is a video showing the symptom of the popping back out and how to fix it: th-cam.com/video/wRAb25Rp4-c/w-d-xo.html
@@GabesHacks Thank you Gabe. So this latch is inside? I get at it by undoing everything the way I did to do the job the first time? Right now I really need to close the door. If I take off the panel covering the outside roller and cut the cable, will I be able to shut the door?
@@lovethe1wolves If the door won't move manually, then the cable is jammed. So yes, cutting the cable will let the door move. The latch I'm talking about is inside the door itself. After you cut the cable you might find that the door won't completely latch. If that happens, then that latch is definitely bad too.
The most time-consuming part will be feeding the new cable through and setting everything up in the motor again. Those springs in the motor are frustrating.
After removing the cover plate, bolt a temporary metal strip between the two screws just above the spindle to hole the springs in. They never need to come out.
Would this video apply to my 2005 Oddysey… my passenger power door is stuck open… can’t close it manually after checking all fuses and what not. Notice my cable is loose on one end (not disconnected) … wondering if the cable is jammed in the motor preventing it from closing even manually… would like to try to do it myself if I can
Yeah, if the cable is loose on one end, then it snapped. And likely the other side got jammed in the motor because there is no tension anymore. Sorry 😕
Hi.. so do I need to take it all apart or can I snip the cable to shut it.. honestly don’t care if it ever works again… just want to be able to close it! 😂
Excellent video very well done, I took out the motor assembly from the car to make it easier to work on. My question is how much cable did you wind in the spindle for the cable going to the front(closing the door)? and the one for the back(opening the door). I don't want to make a mistake and cut it too short. Thanks.
I mentioned it in my blog post: www.gabeshacks.com/2018/01/automatic-sliding-door-cable.html But I only did the driver's side door, which is about 66" for the cable going to the front of the van, and 62" for the back. It might be different on the passenger side. Cut them a few inches longer though, just to make sure you don't cut it too short. You don't have to cut them exactly right away. Wind the cables around the wheel as much as you can without the two cables running into each other on the wheel. Once they're attached inside and the motor closed up, put slack in the cable (like I did at 26:22) and then you can see how much cable you have outside. You only need enough outside for you to be able to put the end in the roller (remember you have to turn the roller sideways to put the cable in), and you can cut it to that length. Then when you take the slack off the cable at the motor, the cable gets tight. Although I did find that the first time I ran the motor, the cable tightened up around the wheel more, and made more slack outside. So you may even be able to shorten it some more after that first run.
Gabe's Hacks Thanks for the response, I followed the link and read your post, I will wind the cable evenly on the spindle, you think I should give more turns for the rear since the door will be in open position then making the connection on the outside? Because you mentioned that you ended up with some slack and you had to repack everything from the spindle on the motor side. Sorry for sounding so tidious, but as you know working on the motor is not easy. Therefore I would like to maximize on your expertise. Thanks
It doesn't matter if one is wound more than the other, you just need to wind the both until they run into each other. One starts at the front and winds toward the back, the other starts at the back and winds toward the front. There will be a point where you simply can't wind them anymore because they will start overlapping.
Gabe's Hacks Hi Gabe, thank you very much for all your help, after a couple of failed attempts and working alone, I finally got some help, I wound up the cable on the motor like you said, I had the person hold the cable from the outside of the car to remove any slack while I packed the motor. Then with the door in the middle position I crimped the ferrules to the pins I made(as I couldn't find the round lug connectors), one side was easy the second side required some strength trying to keep it as taught as possible, and voila it worked. Thanks again for posting the complete video of putting the panels back. I put back everything back except the little clip that loosely held the cable going to the rear of the car, hopeful it doesn't cause any issues later on. I ended up with one extra bolt (m4 size) for the life me I figure out where it went. Overall it was a success. Merci infiniment!
Awesome! The clip holding the cable is to prevent too much slack in the cable (when the cable goes straight, there is more slack, so that clip holds it in a curved position). But it will probably be ok without it. No big deal. The extra M4 screw might be for the front or back of the trim that goes over the rail, or maybe the brake light.
My cable broke and just like the others.. I could use it manually. I saw a different video and they also just snipped the cables. My problem is that, even if everything is perfectly ok manually, my car thinks the door is open and it just drains my battery. This happens when my main automatic door switches are ON or OFF. Any ideas? I was able to just mess around with the handles to maybe "close an opened micro switch".. but now the issue is back and I'm beeping perpetually. No dash lights btw.
That's definitely the rear latch. You can open up that latch and clean it up, or just replace it. The second post in this thread describes how to clean it up, with a few pictures: www.odyclub.com/threads/2005-ody-ls-sliding-door-latch.54192/
At 18:41 I describe how to loosen the cable to give you slack at the roller. Doing the opposite puts tension on the cable, which I described at 34:04. If there is not enough tension after that, then either the cable is too long, or you haven't wrapped it around the wheel enough times.
I can't say. I haven't done that side. But once you have wound the cables into the motor and have both ends outside, you can pull them as tight as you can and see the length they need to be. It needs to be tight, but still with enough slack that you can turn the roller assembly to slide the second cable in. Remember there are clips in the motor to add slack to the cable (at 26:22). Make sure that is done before you cut the cable. Then when you put those clips back, it'll pull the cable tight.
thank you very much. Yes, I did that but I still can not finish. I've been working on it for three days and a lot of lost cable. Also that side of the passenger is very narrow, not like the other side that has more space.
I did notice that the cable tightens in the motor quite a bit the first time it runs. So, before cutting the cable, I held both ends tight and ran them back and forth as far as I could each way. That gives a little more slack. Then I cut one end and put it in the roller. Then I cut the other end as short as I possibly can so it can just barely get it in the roller. Then after it runs for the first time, there's still ends up loosening a little, and that's fine.
hey gabes hack i had the 2207 honda odssey 2007 the left side door i put the wire in spool but when i done and try to open the door it only closing but not opening \
What happens when you try to open it? Does the motor run? Does it beep at you? Can you see any slack in the cable? The cable that goes from the door to the back of the van is the one that opens the door.
Gabe's Hack So I brought a new cable replace the one that coming from inside the van when done following your video I try to open the left side sliding door it does not want to open. But when I turn the automatic switch off and open it and then turn the on the automatic switch on it close but it stop half way. I do not know if I need to get a longer cable or have to adjust it a again
Pravindhan Jegathas When the door stops, try pressing the door close button again (the one by the steering wheel). Does it refuse to move, or does it close the rest of the way? If it closes, then it may have stopped because it sensed resistance.
Pravindhan Jegathas If you can open and close it all the way manually, then the cable length is OK. But make sure there are no kinks (sharp bends) in the cable. That would create resistance. You can check the parts of the cable that you can see on the outside first, before going through the work of opening up the inside again.
R Jayan The front is about 66" and the back is about 62". But that only applies to the drivers side. The passenger side might be different. You'll have to measure what comes off. More details are in the full written instructions here: www.odyclub.com/forums/#/topics/257625
One question, how long did the whole job take you to perform, from seat removal to putting them back in? Trying to get an idea of how long I need to do this- if I can do it in a day once I've got the parts.
The first time I did this, it probably took me 4-5 hours. Even when I recorded this video (which slowed me down a bit), I started in the early afternoon and it took me into the evening. So you can definitely get it done in a day, if you're sure you have all the parts you need.
Glad to help :) I mentioned this in my blog post about this (link the in the description) but it's a good idea to use something like JB Weld in the connector (the part starting at 29:06 in the video). The reason I have redone this job (twice) is because of that. Someone suggested the JB Weld in the obyclub.com forums, so this last time I did this job (a couple months ago), I did that. I took pictures of it. I've been meaning to add it to my blog post.
I just looked through my pictures again and it looks like I didn't take a picture of that. But I hope you understand what I mean. You really don't want that wire to slip out of that connector. If it does come out, the motor will end up pulling the cable into the van and get all tangled up and you'll have to do this all over again.
Gabe's Hacks Does the JBWeld go on the cable inside the copper lug to help hold the cable, or on the lug inside the door hanger? Was the problem that the cable slips out of the copper lug?
I can't say for sure. Looking at a diagram of the 4th gen motor (goo.gl/e2kGgw), it looks very similar, so the principles likely still apply. But the insides of the motor may not be exactly the same. Give it a try and make a video :)
Hello, we have a bit of an urgent request. We are on a trip and cannot get the drivers side power door to close. It was parked on a hill and we opened the door and heard a pop. Now it’s stuck open. We have tried all the buttons and manually shutting it. Any ideas or suggestions? We are desperate and totally fine if it is not a power door but we need it to close so we can drive the 500 mile home safely.
Does the handle unlatch the door from the fully open position and you just can't push it closed? If I'm right, you'll have to cut the cable at the back. You'll have to remove the tail light and remove the panel that covers the rail to get access to it (which I did at the beginning of this video). Then cut the cable by any means necessary. Once cut, you'll be able to close the door manually.
Wow thank you so much for your response. The latch does NOT open the door from the latch. We saw some places that say if we cut the cord then the door might have issues trying to close and drain the battery? Is that a concern? Is there a certain spot we should cut the cord?
What do you mean by the latch not opening the door? Is it still locked in the fully open position? If it is, you'll have to figure that out first since cutting the cable won't help that. If the door moves slightly, but you feel resistance from the cable, then go ahead with cutting the cable. Make sure you've turned off the power doors with the switch to the left of the steering wheel. The battery drain that is associated with the door happens from inside the rear latch. Cutting the cable won't cause that.
@@hannahwainer843 I've had this exact scenario happen, and I've just got around to peaking around the van to figure out what went wrong. Chances are, the motor has jammed up, and the cables are lose. Your door is unlikely to close without first correcting this, however, the temporary solution I ended up with (which is going strong for about 2 years) is to unbolt the lower guide rail, and just close the door through sheer force of will. Now, this has the downside of resulting in a door that cannot be opened (because if you open it, it will drop, what with lower supporting rail off, breaking the electrical harness), but can be forced shut. It's not ideal, but it IS a fairly quick fix to get you home. Once you're home, you can worry about actually getting it working again, as I am doing right now personally. Edit: Also of note, this is a symptom of the middle sliding door rollers (the ones that connect to the cables) having completely and utterly worn down to the point of not existing. If one door has had this issue, replace the rollers on the other door ASAP, otherwise this may happen to your other door as well.
Any idea how long the front and back cables should be? I would like to mark them so I know where the ferrules go. Are they the same length for left/right and front/back?
The lengths are on my site: www.gabeshacks.com/2018/01/automatic-sliding-door-cable.html#:~:text=For%20the%20driver%E2%80%99s%20side%2C%20the%20cable%20going%20toward%20the%20front%20of%20the%20van%20is%20about%2066%E2%80%9D.%20The%20cable%20going%20around%20the%20back%20is%20about%2062%E2%80%9D. Unfortunately I can't tell you about the other side since I hadn't done it. You can buy already-made ones here: carcableguy.com/carcableguy_model_purchase_green.html
I haven't taken apart the passenger side, but you should be able to tell by the way the motor housing directs the cables to come into the motor. One side comes in closer to the back, and one side comes in closer to the front. The one that comes in closer to the back will wind around the pulley toward the back.
So my passenger door will open and close manually. I have tried the resets numerous times and it works for a day or two and then it just stops. Is this a cable issue? I am thinking about replacing the fuse. What do you suggest?
If the door moves freely by hand and you can't see a hanging cable outside the van, then the cable is fine. If it works for a day or two every time you reset, then the fuse is fine. When it stops, does it give you a light on the dash? If so, you can read the code from it and see what it's complaining about. You don't need any special tools to do it. I posted instructions on how to do it on the OdyClub forums a while ago (skip the first couple paragraphs): www.odyclub.com/forums/52-2005-2010-odyssey/244129-new-door-problem-motor-toast-post1490346.html#post1490346
That is true, unfortunately. You have to remove the bolts that hold the motor in place and move it to a spot where you can reach through and work with it.
Correct- remove the two top bolts that hold the motor in place but leave the bottom bolt (which is hard to get to anyway). You can then swivel the motor to the right to get the hard-to-reach screws.
Did every thing you said i work on cars 2 But when the moment of truth came door open a little stop car beeping tried it again motor stopped took the cover off the motor cable all messed up What did I do wrong ??? any one ???
Oh no! I'm sorry. That happened to me once too. It's frustrating. Either the cable was too loose (it needed to be shorter) or one of the ends slipped out.
I thinks you should wind the cable with the wheel in first , before you extend to the outside rails than cut cable to side and avoid fiddle the motor wheel 😂😂😂
Well the timing belt is something that's needs to be regularly changed on any van. I learned to do it myself so it only costs me about $250 instead of $1000+. But it's not something everyone is willing or able to do.
@@GabesHacks This is one of the very best repair videos I've ever seen. I got the right spring seated so that long point isn't sticking out. It went into some little hole? Can't get the left one to do the same.
@@GabesHacks A question. I finally got the spool threaded [hope it's right] and seated. Wouldn't you know. I dropped the nut down into the well next to the motor. I've looked everywhere trying to find the size of that nut. Do you know what size that center nut is?
@@lovethe1wolves Oh man! That's awful. If I remember correctly, that needed a 10mm socket, so based on this chart (www.engineeringtoolbox.com/metric-bolt-head-wrench-size-d_1458.html ) that means it's probably M6 thread? That's an educated guess at least.
Sí hablo español, pero no muy bueno que puedo hablar todo en español. Pero usted puede cambiar los subtítulos para que se traduzcan automáticamente al español.
The only part you can buy from Honda is the entire motor assembly, which is expensive. If you don't mind paying for it, then it is the easiest way to do it.
@@GabesHacks I found the two cables on amazon including the pulley wheel and cable housing.... It was a cheap part and the cable is already the correct length and has the ferrules installed.
Maybe I'm misunderstanding you, but it sounds like you just said two opposite things. If I replace the whole unit, it will be using the same cable that originally broke.
Excellent video. I like your calm demeanor throughout a difficult job, and you showed the whole process all the way through.
Thanks for the kind words! Happy to help
THANK YOU SO MUCH for this awesome video! I have a 2010 Odyssey that I needed to replace the fuel sensor cable, and I found real basic instructions to do that but not for how to remove the inside panels then put it all back together. I didn’t need the cable part of the video, so I skipped past that, but your very detailed video saved me hundreds of dollars that the dealer was going to charge me! Can’t thank you enough! Oh and by the way, your video was so easy to follow, this Mom was able to do this inside panel removal and replacement with no help from anyone! Wahoo!
This is exactly what I needed! Thank you for taking the time to record putting things back in place and not just stopping after the cable was repaired. Fantastic video!
Holy crap! Thank you. That is an amazing how to. Not looking forward to tackling that one on my van but your patience and perseverance are absolutely inspiring.
Gabe, you were a life saver. I had the laptop out in the driveway with me as I followed your steps to fix the roller motor. I really appreciate this video--saved lots of $$ for sure!
Excellent video. Excellent explanation step by step. Showing the same obstacles that I found. Greatly explained. Even the kid in the background would learn how to do it.
Thanks
Glad I could help!
kudos to your video, my 2008 Odyssey had the cable snap/break, etc... I followed your video step by step and I got lucky that my cables were still intact. It was the roller that had gotten damaged and released the cables, then ended up going into the panel. This only difference I came upon my cables and yours is that in the spool the back cable actually goes to the front and the front cable goes to the back, with the front cable actually going in first. Other than that your video saved me lots of money. Thank you so much. working like a charm once again.. 09/08/2017
Glad I could help! Were you working on the passenger side door?
I liked your patience on top of your work. You gave me a good push to do it on my own. Thank you
I appreciate the kind words. This definitely takes some patience.
Excellent video, I have a 2010 Odyssey and I will try this next Saturday morning!!
Going to watch this about 30 more times 😃😃😃
I hope it works out for you! I can be time-consuming, but it's doable.
Thanks for the video, replaced my Honda van's cable this week. It turns out that my cable broke because the roll assembly lost one of the wheels. I only had to replace the rear cable, so I reused the end piece that attaches to the roller assembly. Thanks again for the awesome video.
Thanks for the video. While my problem was with the right side sliding door where the cable broke and prevented the door from opening because the other cable was jammed in the motor housing, it helped. Mine was a little more complicated since the door wouldn't open, I couldn't remove the door sill and thus was not able to fully remove the side panel, so I had to work over the top of the panel or behind it. Ultimately I was able to open the motor housing, and cut the cable there which allowed the door to open. I then removed the door sill and panel, removed the spool and all the cables, and reassembled everything. I then worked on the outside to remove the cables from the door. It is now manual, and I'm not sure if the spool is in good enough condition to get new cables.
As far as some wondering if using the door manually causes problems, I'd like to say from 2 years of experience with the Left door operating manually (I had a local shop do it since I didn't have time to address it at the time) I never had a problem other than a message to check the left sliding door to appear in the MID and the "i" symbol being lit. Interestingly enough, after the battery was disconnected and the door switch in the off position, I no longer get any warning messages for either sliding door.
That's good information about disconnecting the battery. I'll recommend that to anyone who would rather just use them manually.
Super helpful video. No matter what this job is time consuming.
RIGHT ON THE MONEY!!! GREAT VID!!! My cable wasnt broken so repair was 2 hours. Dealer wanted 1500.00
Glad I could help!
GREAT VIDEO>>>>Just what I needed after my door cables became unsync'd.
You are brave. I just closed the door while van was inclined front and it snapped the cable !! I was reverse parked in a loading dock to pick some stuff from a store and this happened
Yikes! I think that's one of those moments when you wish life had an undo button🙃
I have to tackle this job this week. Awesome job. Thank you so much.
Happy to help. I hope it goes well!
Excellent video. I actually did the video for the 2nd gen cable repair a few years ago. Although there are some differences between the Gen 2 and 3, the principles are still the same. Notable differences I saw were how the new tensioner adjustments, and the fact that Honda now uses uncoated cable.I think I would have been leery making that splice repair you made in fear it would slip out, and just run a brand new cable. But if it works and lasts, great.
Also what I did at the rollers was double loop the cable into the ground lug hole so the clamp screw had more to bite onto and less likely for the cable to slip out. Also dipped the ends in epoxy for extra strength and less likely to slip out.I
Great tips! Honda still does use a coated cable, but it's thinner than the 2nd gen. I replaced it with uncoated, since it was easier to find at the right size.
I did think about running a whole new cable instead of making that splice, but it was getting late in the day and I was tired and didn't want to open up the motor again :) That motor is so finnicky to keep together once you open it up.
Thanks for your video! It was immensely helpful when we had our '02 Odyssey and the cable snapped. When we bought this one, both doors wouldn't close. It gave me leverage with the dealership since we negotiated the price knowing it costs almost $1k/door to fix, but also knowing I was just going to fix it myself :)
The popularity of this issue is amazing. I really didn't think this would be a popular video, but it's become one of my most-watched videos.
Just got done with a 2009, would have posted a video, but therewould have been to many beeeps for my colorful language during the process. Your video definitely helped.
I don't doubt that at all 😄 it's a tough project.
Awsome video. Thank you for your detailed explanation. Much needed. This should receive a Million views easily. It seems like a common problem. My passenger door has a problem not opening.
Are you sure it's the cable? If it's not unlatching, it would be something else. If it is unlatching, but not opening, it might be the cable.
Okay. It's not opening at all , seems as though it doesn't have any electricity.
Try asking about it at odyclub.com The folks there are very helpful. (I'm there too)
Great , thanks.
@@GabesHacks Hi Gabe's this goes for the 2007… is the same right?
Out standing job. You rocked it. Helped me a lot.
Great video! Very informative! I greatly appreciate your time and efforts to educate us!
Wow man. Your very patient.I know you can just open and close the door by hand but I guess it’s nice to have it working power. But honestly after watching 25% of this video I’ think I’m gonna close it by hand. Too much work for something you really don’t need. Plus the fact there’s 100 of these vans in thw junkyard and 100 of them have something missing off the cable system so that means this is a common problem and you did it twice so no way can I do all this work and have it break again. Thanks for the video.
I don't blame you! It is pretty annoying to put together. It's a whole lot easier if you just buy the whole motor assembly, but it's not cheap. Even sites like Bernardi Parts or Conicelli that sell new OEM parts for about the cheapest you'll find anywhere are still ~$300: www.conicellihondaparts.com/auto-parts/2009/honda/odyssey-5-door/exl-res-trim/5-speed-automatic-engine/body-air-conditioning-cat/slide-door-motors-scat
I'm just doing this with my 5 kids around the van ... What a pain !
😅 I have 4 kids, so I know your pain!
Hahaha I’ve pain w a only one kid, I can’t imagine 4 or 5
Where is the wrench? Bo the switch is not a toy.
I recognized every mastercraft tool you have because I have the same ones 😀. I had a cable slip out of the motor housing on an old 02 odyssey and now I have a broken cable on a 06 odyssey.
🙂 I love the Mastercraft hand tools for the lifetime warranty. I've had to get replacements a few times. It's awesome.
I hope you get your cable fixed up! It's a bit frustrating, but it's doable.
Hello!! Thank you very much for your video, it helped me a lot. I send you my congratulations from Querétaro Mexico
Super Super helpful! Awesome video. Thanks
Glad it can help. It's a big job, but can save a lot of money.
Here I see yours is already open, I'm unable to open our close mine manually or with power mode. I don't know if whatever the switch by the steering wheel actually does is broken, but I've not seen much info on the switch itself anywhere😢
If you turn the main switch to off (beside the steering wheel) it should disengage the door motor so you can open it manually. If the door doesn't unlatch when you pull the handle, then it's either locked (so unlock it) or there's something wrong with the latch. If the door unlatches but you can't move it, that means the cable probably broke and it's jammed in something. In that case, you'll have to cut the cable however you can.
Excellent video, thank you! I was able to follow your instructions and get my whole cable replaced on the driver's side. It works in manual position, but now the motor won't run. I tried pulling fuses and resetting them several times. I also tried disconnecting the battery, and also one or two other "reset" ideas. Still, the driver's side motor doesn't engage. Any ideas?
Have you tried manually opening all the way and closing all the way? I know I needed to at least close it all the way before the motor would kick in again.
Thanks a lot for the detailed view :)
No problem!
I found that the pulley that winds the cable is in pretty rough shape.. I bought new cables, but Honda doesn't sell a replacement pulley apart from the whole assembly, so I am thinking of just pulling the old cable out and using the door manually... but, will the car's computer know when the door is open/closed? ..will it drain the battery?
The computer will know when the door is open or closed, but you will have a light in the dash indicating that there's a problem with the door.
It won't drain the battery. A problem with the rear door latch will drain the battery. But if your door closes fully, then you don't have that problem.
hmm.. not so sure.
hey gabe's hack i got a used one and i put it on the the van and it work. i try it but my friend mom going scrap the van so i took the part fr-om the that van and put it on my and it work
Pravindhan Jegathas Awesome!
My door is stuck open, I wouldn't be able to do any of this stuff. I can see the cable is slack and hanging out, so I'm assuming that's the problem (or part of it at least). I have no problem with the door being manual, can I just snip that cord and pull it out to get the door to close?
Yes, you can cut the cable back so you can't see it anymore and just leave it like that and use it manually. You will need to cut the cable at the back and the front of the door.
My electrician have cut the cable to make it a manual door. It worked for a week (on occasion it was stiff to open) - but week after it’s completely stuck closed, and seems locked somewhere inside. I can’t manually open it even playing with various settings on the label, and the manual locking lever. Would you know by any chance what could be the issue? It’s Honda Stepwagoon 2004. Thank you
How many feet of cable for the close/open function should I cut? Fixing it for a friend who had somebody just snip the cable previously so I have nothing to go off of. Thanks in advance!
Victor Villarini In the description of this video there's a link to written instructions, which has the measurements. It's about 66" for the piece toward the front, and 62" for the back piece. If you have both pieces of the snipped wire, you could measure what you have just to make sure.
do you need to worry about the side curtain air bags at all? the side rear panel is adjacent to two air bags and I am worried I'll set them off
I have a 2006 Honda Odyssey
No, no issue there. But if you are worried about it, disconnect the battery while you do it.
good video..thanks because its a very common problem
Got the job done and what a pain in the ars.
Absolutely it is... but thanks! 🙂
How many hours did you take ?
@@DavidHernandez-ue4fz I don't remember David. I was stressed and kept stopping. Didn't do it in one day. Getting the cable to stay put so you can put the assembly back on was the biggest issue for me. I didn't do the door thing, just the cable.
The cabe on my 2004 Odyssey broke and the dealer said the cable is part of a whole motor assembly which cost 1300$ not include labor. Holy crap! I wrapped up the cables and dont use the door. When time permit, i will try to open the darn thing out and will try to replace it with a 3/32 cable from Home Depot.
The 99-2004 is a bit different. The is a video that can't find right now, but read this if you haven't already: www.odyclub.com/forums/24-1999-2004-odyssey/154039-diy-fix-sliding-door-cable-using-parts-under-10-a.html#/topics/154039
@Papa Bear If you buy a door, it won't come with the cable assembly for opening/closing it.
How did you open the door after wire was broken. Mine isn’t opening. 2005 Odyssey. Thanks
Mine broke while closing, so it was already open.
If you can't open yours (even after turning off the main switch beside the steering wheel) then you'll have to cut the front cable to get it open.
@@GabesHacks Thanks. How do we do that do you have any description short video?
@@hayyat9301 I used a rotary tool with a cutoff wheel, which you can see starting at 15:28
You can try regular wire cutters, but they didn't work for me, although the stock cable is thinner than what I replaced it with. You may be able to use bolt cutters too, if you have them.
@@GabesHacks Thanks
Looks like as much fun as loading the weedwacker.
😄 That's a great way to put it! Very accurate, unfortunately 🙃
Hai fatto un bel lavoro complimenti
Grazie!
Gabe, thanks for the video! Long story but I ended up cutting my wire cable about 6" above and to the right of the gas cap. I did this because the door was severely jammed and my wife was in a rush and had to leave and I didn't know what I was doing at the time... I was thinking to myself "wires are cheap and easy to replace, right?". Question: if the wire is still available on both ends and didn't slip back inside the guide holes... is it possible to clamp them together rather than trying to replace and feed the whole wire again? I am going to buy a new roller assembly and am hoping I can do this in the process. Also, I believe the motor is fine but I didn't hear it the last time I tested it... this may be because there is no cable tension at the moment? Any help/advice is appreciated... Thanks! ps. I was hoping there would be a repair kit online for this sort of thing but I guess there is not?
How far was your cut away from the roller? Closer the better. Your splice cannot be in a spot that gets pulled into the inside, since there simply isn't enough room for anything bigger than the cable itself. If it's at a spot that is always outside, then you should be fine to splice it.
Thanks Gabe I will have to check. Is it okay to have the spliced wire roll through the roller mechanism? and I guess to connect the broken wire I can use some kind of wire clamp?
You can try, but I doubt it. You would need a type of splice that would not add much to the diameter of the wire, and be small or flexible enough to go around the roller. If you had access to a welder, maybe you could weld the cable back together. But I'm not a welder, so I don't know if that would even work.
I wonder if any of these cables are the right one? I have been looking around: www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2386202.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XOdyssey+Side+Sliding+Door-Cable+.TRS1&_nkw=Odyssey+Side+Sliding+Door-Cable+&_sacat=0
Actually, now that I'm looking at the roller assembly, it doesn't look like the wire needs to go around it, but just needs to be strong enough to pull it one way or the other. So I may try to connect them back together with a crimp or something similar and then add then add some solder to reinforce.
Well, I'm back. This summer I replaced center roller on the drivers side and ended up needing to reroll the cable [2007 Odyssey]. All was well until yesterday and the door kept popping back open. It finally just stayed open and won't budge. I've tried everything. I didn't use new cable & wish I had. I took of the panel that covers the roller and there was a piece of plastic from the cable just kind of hanging there. Took it off. But I'm thinking there are places in the cable that have the same problem and won't slide through from the inside so the door will shut. Desperate to get the door shut. If the cable is the problem, I'm thinking about cutting it so I can manually shut the door? Suggestions Gabe?
If you can't move the door manually, then the cable is jammed somewhere, probably inside the motor unfortunately :(
The popping back open is likely the rear latch inside the door. One of the microswitches inside tells the computer that the door is closed. So if that malfunctions, the computer doesn't know the door is closed and the motor keeps running and only stops when the motor can't turn. That puts strain on the cable. So it's possible that repeated strain snapped the cable and now you have two problems. You can either replace that latch or open it up and clean it. See the second and third posts in this thread: www.odyclub.com/threads/2005-ody-ls-sliding-door-latch.54192/
And here is a video showing the symptom of the popping back out and how to fix it: th-cam.com/video/wRAb25Rp4-c/w-d-xo.html
@@GabesHacks Thank you Gabe. So this latch is inside? I get at it by undoing everything the way I did to do the job the first time? Right now I really need to close the door. If I take off the panel covering the outside roller and cut the cable, will I be able to shut the door?
@@lovethe1wolves If the door won't move manually, then the cable is jammed. So yes, cutting the cable will let the door move.
The latch I'm talking about is inside the door itself. After you cut the cable you might find that the door won't completely latch. If that happens, then that latch is definitely bad too.
@@GabesHacks Thank you.
how long start to finish? thanks for the video good job!
It takes a while.... If you haven't opened up the back panel before, give yourself at least a good 5 hours.
Gabe's Hacks ok.... i have replaced the rollers before so takung it apart will be no problem.
The most time-consuming part will be feeding the new cable through and setting everything up in the motor again. Those springs in the motor are frustrating.
After removing the cover plate, bolt a temporary metal strip between the two screws just above the spindle to hole the springs in. They never need to come out.
Would this video apply to my 2005 Oddysey… my passenger power door is stuck open… can’t close it manually after checking all fuses and what not. Notice my cable is loose on one end (not disconnected) … wondering if the cable is jammed in the motor preventing it from closing even manually… would like to try to do it myself if I can
Yeah, if the cable is loose on one end, then it snapped. And likely the other side got jammed in the motor because there is no tension anymore. Sorry 😕
Hi.. so do I need to take it all apart or can I snip the cable to shut it.. honestly don’t care if it ever works again… just want to be able to close it! 😂
@@stephaniemulveny Yes, you can cut the cable to close it. The door light on the dash will come on, as long as you can live with that 🙂
Excellent video very well done, I took out the motor assembly from the car to make it easier to work on. My question is how much cable did you wind in the spindle for the cable going to the front(closing the door)? and the one for the back(opening the door). I don't want to make a mistake and cut it too short.
Thanks.
I mentioned it in my blog post: www.gabeshacks.com/2018/01/automatic-sliding-door-cable.html
But I only did the driver's side door, which is about 66" for the cable going to the front of the van, and 62" for the back. It might be different on the passenger side. Cut them a few inches longer though, just to make sure you don't cut it too short.
You don't have to cut them exactly right away. Wind the cables around the wheel as much as you can without the two cables running into each other on the wheel. Once they're attached inside and the motor closed up, put slack in the cable (like I did at 26:22) and then you can see how much cable you have outside. You only need enough outside for you to be able to put the end in the roller (remember you have to turn the roller sideways to put the cable in), and you can cut it to that length. Then when you take the slack off the cable at the motor, the cable gets tight.
Although I did find that the first time I ran the motor, the cable tightened up around the wheel more, and made more slack outside. So you may even be able to shorten it some more after that first run.
Gabe's Hacks Thanks for the response, I followed the link and read your post, I will wind the cable evenly on the spindle, you think I should give more turns for the rear since the door will be in open position then making the connection on the outside? Because you mentioned that you ended up with some slack and you had to repack everything from the spindle on the motor side. Sorry for sounding so tidious, but as you know working on the motor is not easy. Therefore I would like to maximize on your expertise. Thanks
It doesn't matter if one is wound more than the other, you just need to wind the both until they run into each other.
One starts at the front and winds toward the back, the other starts at the back and winds toward the front. There will be a point where you simply can't wind them anymore because they will start overlapping.
Gabe's Hacks Hi Gabe, thank you very much for all your help, after a couple of failed attempts and working alone, I finally got some help, I wound up the cable on the motor like you said, I had the person hold the cable from the outside of the car to remove any slack while I packed the motor. Then with the door in the middle position I crimped the ferrules to the pins I made(as I couldn't find the round lug connectors), one side was easy the second side required some strength trying to keep it as taught as possible, and voila it worked. Thanks again for posting the complete video of putting the panels back. I put back everything back except the little clip that loosely held the cable going to the rear of the car, hopeful it doesn't cause any issues later on. I ended up with one extra bolt (m4 size) for the life me I figure out where it went. Overall it was a success.
Merci infiniment!
Awesome! The clip holding the cable is to prevent too much slack in the cable (when the cable goes straight, there is more slack, so that clip holds it in a curved position). But it will probably be ok without it. No big deal.
The extra M4 screw might be for the front or back of the trim that goes over the rail, or maybe the brake light.
My cable broke and just like the others.. I could use it manually. I saw a different video and they also just snipped the cables. My problem is that, even if everything is perfectly ok manually, my car thinks the door is open and it just drains my battery. This happens when my main automatic door switches are ON or OFF. Any ideas? I was able to just mess around with the handles to maybe "close an opened micro switch".. but now the issue is back and I'm beeping perpetually. No dash lights btw.
That's definitely the rear latch. You can open up that latch and clean it up, or just replace it. The second post in this thread describes how to clean it up, with a few pictures: www.odyclub.com/threads/2005-ody-ls-sliding-door-latch.54192/
HELLO , QUESTION HOW DO YOU PUT THE TH TENSION ON THE CABLES
At 18:41 I describe how to loosen the cable to give you slack at the roller. Doing the opposite puts tension on the cable, which I described at 34:04. If there is not enough tension after that, then either the cable is too long, or you haven't wrapped it around the wheel enough times.
Great tutorial! Is it an option to remove the wire and make the door manuel?
Sure, as long as you can put up with the light on the dash always being on.
Yea that’s the thing, I just bought the cable kit mentionned in the comments. Hope it works🤞🏼
@@francoisruel4275did it work?
What is the length for the cables of the passenger door? it's the same? I'm with the problem for this.
I can't say. I haven't done that side. But once you have wound the cables into the motor and have both ends outside, you can pull them as tight as you can and see the length they need to be. It needs to be tight, but still with enough slack that you can turn the roller assembly to slide the second cable in.
Remember there are clips in the motor to add slack to the cable (at 26:22). Make sure that is done before you cut the cable. Then when you put those clips back, it'll pull the cable tight.
thank you very much. Yes, I did that but I still can not finish. I've been working on it for three days and a lot of lost cable. Also that side of the passenger is very narrow, not like the other side that has more space.
@@lgcarkeyNJ Why are you losing cable? Are you running the motor while the cable is still loose?
I did notice that the cable tightens in the motor quite a bit the first time it runs. So, before cutting the cable, I held both ends tight and ran them back and forth as far as I could each way. That gives a little more slack. Then I cut one end and put it in the roller. Then I cut the other end as short as I possibly can so it can just barely get it in the roller. Then after it runs for the first time, there's still ends up loosening a little, and that's fine.
Where do you get the cable crimping tool with the Crips
I'm pretty sure I used a combination wire stripper/crimper. Something like this: amzn.to/3J9p8A4
But even vise grips will work.
hey gabes hack i had the 2207 honda odssey 2007 the left side door i put the wire in spool but when i done and try to open the door it only closing but not opening \
What happens when you try to open it? Does the motor run? Does it beep at you? Can you see any slack in the cable? The cable that goes from the door to the back of the van is the one that opens the door.
Gabe's Hack
So I brought a new cable replace the one that coming from inside the van when done following your video I try to open the left side sliding door it does not want to open. But when I turn the automatic switch off and open it and then turn the on the automatic switch on it close but it stop half way. I do not know if I need to get a longer cable or have to adjust it a again
Pravindhan Jegathas When the door stops, try pressing the door close button again (the one by the steering wheel). Does it refuse to move, or does it close the rest of the way? If it closes, then it may have stopped because it sensed resistance.
Pravindhan Jegathas If you can open and close it all the way manually, then the cable length is OK. But make sure there are no kinks (sharp bends) in the cable. That would create resistance. You can check the parts of the cable that you can see on the outside first, before going through the work of opening up the inside again.
Ok I try it and then let you know
Hi, thanks for the video. What is the length of rear and front cables?
R Jayan The front is about 66" and the back is about 62". But that only applies to the drivers side. The passenger side might be different. You'll have to measure what comes off.
More details are in the full written instructions here: www.odyclub.com/forums/#/topics/257625
Thank you so much
One more doubt. Is it 66" inches or 6.6 feet?
R Jayan 66 inches. Cut it a few inches longer just in case. You can always cut it a bit more later, but it's a massive pain to extend it (if you can).
Thanks again
can you tell me what you used to connect the cables the first time
A ferrule from the ferrule and stop set: amzn.to/2gNrhXm
Hi i have honda stepwgon my bottom cable on lefthand side is jammed bottom cable is cut is there a way i can release the door
I assume it will slide one way but not the other? You'll have to cut the other cable to loosen it.
It wont close at all is it the middle rail cable i have to cut.it seems its from the bottom of the door
The bottom cable is the cable that is snapped by the way thank u for your time
It's like rewinding a weed eater from hell.
Haha! That's exactly what it's like.
One question, how long did the whole job take you to perform, from seat removal to putting them back in? Trying to get an idea of how long I need to do this- if I can do it in a day once I've got the parts.
The first time I did this, it probably took me 4-5 hours. Even when I recorded this video (which slowed me down a bit), I started in the early afternoon and it took me into the evening. So you can definitely get it done in a day, if you're sure you have all the parts you need.
Gabe's Hacks I know you complained about the quality of this video, but your customer service just makes up for it and then some. Thank you Sir!
Glad to help :)
I mentioned this in my blog post about this (link the in the description) but it's a good idea to use something like JB Weld in the connector (the part starting at 29:06 in the video). The reason I have redone this job (twice) is because of that.
Someone suggested the JB Weld in the obyclub.com forums, so this last time I did this job (a couple months ago), I did that. I took pictures of it. I've been meaning to add it to my blog post.
I just looked through my pictures again and it looks like I didn't take a picture of that. But I hope you understand what I mean.
You really don't want that wire to slip out of that connector. If it does come out, the motor will end up pulling the cable into the van and get all tangled up and you'll have to do this all over again.
Gabe's Hacks Does the JBWeld go on the cable inside the copper lug to help hold the cable, or on the lug inside the door hanger? Was the problem that the cable slips out of the copper lug?
Great video!
Thanks! I'm happy it's helped others. It's a tough job, but if money is tight, it's the best way.
The motor run and the it does beep and I have the pro blue with the wire coming from the back of the van
Was wondering why you started from the motor
That's the most complicated part, and if you start from the outside, you can't trim the cable from the inside if it ends up being too long.
We have a 4th Generation Odyssey and had the cable snap today. Do you know if there are many differences between the 3rd and 4th Generation?
I can't say for sure. Looking at a diagram of the 4th gen motor (goo.gl/e2kGgw), it looks very similar, so the principles likely still apply. But the insides of the motor may not be exactly the same.
Give it a try and make a video :)
Hello, we have a bit of an urgent request. We are on a trip and cannot get the drivers side power door to close. It was parked on a hill and we opened the door and heard a pop. Now it’s stuck open. We have tried all the buttons and manually shutting it. Any ideas or suggestions? We are desperate and totally fine if it is not a power door but we need it to close so we can drive the 500 mile home safely.
Does the handle unlatch the door from the fully open position and you just can't push it closed? If I'm right, you'll have to cut the cable at the back. You'll have to remove the tail light and remove the panel that covers the rail to get access to it (which I did at the beginning of this video). Then cut the cable by any means necessary. Once cut, you'll be able to close the door manually.
Wow thank you so much for your response. The latch does NOT open the door from the latch. We saw some places that say if we cut the cord then the door might have issues trying to close and drain the battery? Is that a concern? Is there a certain spot we should cut the cord?
What do you mean by the latch not opening the door? Is it still locked in the fully open position? If it is, you'll have to figure that out first since cutting the cable won't help that. If the door moves slightly, but you feel resistance from the cable, then go ahead with cutting the cable. Make sure you've turned off the power doors with the switch to the left of the steering wheel.
The battery drain that is associated with the door happens from inside the rear latch. Cutting the cable won't cause that.
@@hannahwainer843 I've had this exact scenario happen, and I've just got around to peaking around the van to figure out what went wrong.
Chances are, the motor has jammed up, and the cables are lose. Your door is unlikely to close without first correcting this, however, the temporary solution I ended up with (which is going strong for about 2 years) is to unbolt the lower guide rail, and just close the door through sheer force of will.
Now, this has the downside of resulting in a door that cannot be opened (because if you open it, it will drop, what with lower supporting rail off, breaking the electrical harness), but can be forced shut.
It's not ideal, but it IS a fairly quick fix to get you home. Once you're home, you can worry about actually getting it working again, as I am doing right now personally.
Edit: Also of note, this is a symptom of the middle sliding door rollers (the ones that connect to the cables) having completely and utterly worn down to the point of not existing. If one door has had this issue, replace the rollers on the other door ASAP, otherwise this may happen to your other door as well.
@@hannahwainer843
When you ajust the cable are have the door close or open
It doesn't matter. The tension on the cable will be the same whether it's open or closed.
Any idea how long the front and back cables should be? I would like to mark them so I know where the ferrules go. Are they the same length for left/right and front/back?
The lengths are on my site: www.gabeshacks.com/2018/01/automatic-sliding-door-cable.html#:~:text=For%20the%20driver%E2%80%99s%20side%2C%20the%20cable%20going%20toward%20the%20front%20of%20the%20van%20is%20about%2066%E2%80%9D.%20The%20cable%20going%20around%20the%20back%20is%20about%2062%E2%80%9D.
Unfortunately I can't tell you about the other side since I hadn't done it. You can buy already-made ones here: carcableguy.com/carcableguy_model_purchase_green.html
Anyone know cable winding direction on passenger side for 2008 model?
I haven't taken apart the passenger side, but you should be able to tell by the way the motor housing directs the cables to come into the motor. One side comes in closer to the back, and one side comes in closer to the front. The one that comes in closer to the back will wind around the pulley toward the back.
Very helpful, thanks
You're welcome!
Is their cam way I can call you
I did everything but still no open 😢
Do you still have a light on the dash?
good job ,thank you very much
Glad I could help!
So my passenger door will open and close manually. I have tried the resets numerous times and it works for a day or two and then it just stops. Is this a cable issue? I am thinking about replacing the fuse. What do you suggest?
If the door moves freely by hand and you can't see a hanging cable outside the van, then the cable is fine. If it works for a day or two every time you reset, then the fuse is fine.
When it stops, does it give you a light on the dash? If so, you can read the code from it and see what it's complaining about. You don't need any special tools to do it. I posted instructions on how to do it on the OdyClub forums a while ago (skip the first couple paragraphs): www.odyclub.com/forums/52-2005-2010-odyssey/244129-new-door-problem-motor-toast-post1490346.html#post1490346
@@GabesHacks When I reset the door, the alert disappears until the door stops working again. They go hand-in-hand.
Excelente información amigo gracias
De nada
Good job primo
Thank you!!
You're welcome! It's a tough job
unfortunately, the passenger side motor isn't open for removing motor cover (to then see if cables are jumbled up) like the driver's side one is. :(
That is true, unfortunately. You have to remove the bolts that hold the motor in place and move it to a spot where you can reach through and work with it.
Correct- remove the two top bolts that hold the motor in place but leave the bottom bolt (which is hard to get to anyway). You can then swivel the motor to the right to get the hard-to-reach screws.
Disculpe en donde compro los cables
Es más fácil comprar cable para los frenos de bicicleta. Pero no puede ser más grueso que 1.5mm. Algo como esto: amzn.to/2rGPxOK
Gabe's Hacks muchas gracias
Why didn't get the cables straight first
Muchas gracias por la informacion
De nada!
Buen video Ecua 🇪🇨
I change my 2011 honda stepwagon Cable but it wont close are open do you know why
If it does nothing at all when you press the button, then it just needs to be reset, which I had to do in the video at 35:14
nice video step by step *****
Did every thing you said i work on cars 2 But when the moment of truth came door open a little stop car beeping tried it again motor stopped took the cover off the motor cable all messed up What did I do wrong ??? any one ???
Oh no! I'm sorry. That happened to me once too. It's frustrating. Either the cable was too loose (it needed to be shorter) or one of the ends slipped out.
I thinks you should wind the cable with the wheel in first , before you extend to the outside rails than cut cable to side and avoid fiddle the motor wheel 😂😂😂
It's been a long time, but I think there was a reason I did it this way.... but I can't remember 🤷♂️
I learned just sell it cause the timing belt will go next
Well the timing belt is something that's needs to be regularly changed on any van. I learned to do it myself so it only costs me about $250 instead of $1000+. But it's not something everyone is willing or able to do.
I couldn't get the very 1st piece in the process out. Frustrating.
Yeah, it's definitely not a pleasant experience...
@@GabesHacks This is one of the very best repair videos I've ever seen. I got the right spring seated so that long point isn't sticking out. It went into some little hole? Can't get the left one to do the same.
@@lovethe1wolves Thanks! And yes, there is a little hole in there. Shine a light in there so you can see it and line it up right. It's tricky.
@@GabesHacks A question. I finally got the spool threaded [hope it's right] and seated. Wouldn't you know. I dropped the nut down into the well next to the motor. I've looked everywhere trying to find the size of that nut. Do you know what size that center nut is?
@@lovethe1wolves Oh man! That's awful. If I remember correctly, that needed a 10mm socket, so based on this chart (www.engineeringtoolbox.com/metric-bolt-head-wrench-size-d_1458.html ) that means it's probably M6 thread? That's an educated guess at least.
Thanks bro
No prob bro 👍
If you have rear air this takes a day and a half...
Yeah, on the passenger side it's a little trickier with the HVAC in the way, but it's doable.
@@GabesHacks price for this job?
@@DavidHernandez-ue4fz No shop is going to do this for you. They'll just replace the entire motor assembly.
@@GabesHacks I guess replacing the entire motor assembly won't take too many hours, right?
@@DavidHernandez-ue4fz It could probably be done in an hour, but maybe two.
Me gustaría que dijeras todo ese video en español
Sí hablo español, pero no muy bueno que puedo hablar todo en español. Pero usted puede cambiar los subtítulos para que se traduzcan automáticamente al español.
Gabe's Hacks gracias lo intentaré que puedo hacer para traducirlo gracias por la informacion
Una pregunta usted tiene algún videos como cambiar el cable que va de la otra puerta de el lado derecho
Lo hice, pero no en video. Mucho es lo mismo, pero hay algunas partes más que sacar.
Gabe's Hacks esta bien lo intentaré cambiar a ver si queda bien
😮😮❤
Yeah, it's a lot of work!
Why not just get the correct parts. I’m not cutting cables!
The only part you can buy from Honda is the entire motor assembly, which is expensive. If you don't mind paying for it, then it is the easiest way to do it.
@@GabesHacks I found the two cables on amazon including the pulley wheel and cable housing.... It was a cheap part and the cable is already the correct length and has the ferrules installed.
@@LitheInLitotesRock on! 👍
what a fucking nightmare.
I can't disagree. 🤷♂️
Ferrule
😄 I honestly never heard that word before I worked on this.
please help
Moisture car
Bro just replace that whole unit its going to do the same thing especially if you use the same cable.
Maybe I'm misunderstanding you, but it sounds like you just said two opposite things. If I replace the whole unit, it will be using the same cable that originally broke.
what a terrible Japanize design.