The nylon (or teflon?) block in the upper pivot in an original part. Over the years it swells up a bit and just needs some polishing with sand paper to give it a loose sliding fit. (and no play) Replacing it with bearing brons is not a good idea because there is no access to lugricate it.
hey michel. I didn't expect that to be original. and yes plastic swells. I knew that. that's why I thought it wasn't original. but thanks for your information.👍🏻
You can only scrape a surface flat when you have a reference surface that is bigger then the surface you are going to attack. The first method with small reference is I think wrong because that flat part is able to rotate or twits without you knowing.
@@therealspixycat so you're saying my straight edge is too short? can you explain more about that? I thought it would be possible, I cover more than 75% of my RAM surface
@DoMetalStuff yes: straight edge must cover at least the full length and secondly the straight edge must cover both surfaces (left and right) so you need a large surface plate for this. You need a surface plate to get both sides in one plane. Just image that it is one solid piece: it has to be perfectly flat to rub eventually back and forth without binding and without any play. Wat ik bedoel dat je in feite een grote rechthoek perfect in een rechthoekige opening moet zien te krijgen en dat die rechthoek zonder dat hij vast loopt omdat vlakken niet perfect parallel lopen of dat er speling ontstaat. Dit is behoorlijk behoorlijk lees bijzonder lastig. Ik hoop dat je het een beetje snapt
I think you are right here, to have a bigger surface as a reference would be ideal, BUT: I dont think he is aiming for perfect precision, he is just trying to improve his tool. That can be done even with measurement methods wich are far from ideal. If you hinge the straight edge on your part and you know the first half is flat, then move your straight edge half the legth of it and hinge it again, you can get your part pretty flat, not perfect, build what i consider good enough (if it's better than before. cheers!
@etbuilds6006 well that isto be seen: for the same token you make it worse because you don't and didn't fully understand the concept possibly destroying the shaper. Oke you gained a lot of experience but it is sad to possibly destroy a nice little shaper. O do have the exact same Ai machine
@@therealspixycat My ram is first ground flat, I have found someone. where I can do this. and I will also grind the round disc flat, but that will take another 2 weeks.
One thing I noticed: I think the radius of your scraper blade is much to small. The cuts you are making are really tiny. I'm reaaly no expert in scraping, like you I learned by just doing it, afer watching TH-cam-University (Keith Rucker and Richard King ...). That said, for roughing in, I use a radius of 40-60mm and quite heavy force, so I really take of some chips, not only dust. for finishing 30mm radius seems to work good, using a more elastic scraper shaft, which seems to reduce chatter. Cheers Erich
@@DoMetalStuff I watched your videos on scraping, you have no idea what you are doing. My advice is to leave the shaper the way it is and practice on something else until you have some idea of what you are doing.
@@CastIronMachine Maybe you get the idea that I don't fully understand it. and that might well be the case. I'm practicing on a piece of cast iron. it is also a learning process for me. but I don't learn anything from your response. so please give some info.
@@DoMetalStuff I just did, you are not ready to scrape a machine, that is very useful information. You might get offended but it is the truth. Buy a proper scraper, it's not that expensive, buy a surface plate, buy a straight edge, practice on scrap cast iron, learn more. The information is available and you can learn it but don't hurry, this takes time and practice.
@@CastIronMachineI don't feel offended. but your first 2 responses don't help anyone anyway. I think it's a bit of a shame to buy a surface plate and a straight edge just for this project. those things are very expensive here in the Netherlands. is my flat ground piece of metal not good enough? but like I said, I'm still practicing and I'm not just starting with my shaper.
Hi, Rusty sent me, just subbed
Cheers
nice en welkom, hoop dat je je vermaakt met mijn videos
The nylon (or teflon?) block in the upper pivot in an original part. Over the years it swells up a bit and just needs some polishing with sand paper to give it a loose sliding fit. (and no play) Replacing it with bearing brons is not a good idea because there is no access to lugricate it.
Thats a good point, Rusty!
How come you watching a video about "primitive" work, I thought you despise filing and scraping!? :)
By the way, I love your attitude and your videos too, looking forward to tomorrow!
hey michel. I didn't expect that to be original. and yes plastic swells. I knew that. that's why I thought it wasn't original. but thanks for your information.👍🏻
he always checks on me. he helped me a lot with the shaper.
Me to
You can only scrape a surface flat when you have a reference surface that is bigger then the surface you are going to attack.
The first method with small reference is I think wrong because that flat part is able to rotate or twits without you knowing.
@@therealspixycat so you're saying my straight edge is too short? can you explain more about that? I thought it would be possible, I cover more than 75% of my RAM surface
@DoMetalStuff yes: straight edge must cover at least the full length and secondly the straight edge must cover both surfaces (left and right) so you need a large surface plate for this. You need a surface plate to get both sides in one plane. Just image that it is one solid piece: it has to be perfectly flat to rub eventually back and forth without binding and without any play.
Wat ik bedoel dat je in feite een grote rechthoek perfect in een rechthoekige opening moet zien te krijgen en dat die rechthoek zonder dat hij vast loopt omdat vlakken niet perfect parallel lopen of dat er speling ontstaat. Dit is behoorlijk behoorlijk lees bijzonder lastig. Ik hoop dat je het een beetje snapt
I think you are right here, to have a bigger surface as a reference would be ideal, BUT: I dont think he is aiming for perfect precision, he is just trying to improve his tool. That can be done even with measurement methods wich are far from ideal. If you hinge the straight edge on your part and you know the first half is flat, then move your straight edge half the legth of it and hinge it again, you can get your part pretty flat, not perfect, build what i consider good enough (if it's better than before. cheers!
@etbuilds6006 well that isto be seen: for the same token you make it worse because you don't and didn't fully understand the concept possibly destroying the shaper. Oke you gained a lot of experience but it is sad to possibly destroy a nice little shaper. O do have the exact same Ai machine
@@therealspixycat My ram is first ground flat, I have found someone. where I can do this. and I will also grind the round disc flat, but that will take another 2 weeks.
I don't have any advice to give, since I haven't done any scraping.
@@hilltopmachineworks2131 No problem Tom. There must be someone who can do that... I hope so
@@DoMetalStuff I will reach out to Kyle.
I am open to any information. be my guest
One thing I noticed: I think the radius of your scraper blade is much to small. The cuts you are making are really tiny. I'm reaaly no expert in scraping, like you I learned by just doing it, afer watching TH-cam-University (Keith Rucker and Richard King ...). That said, for roughing in, I use a radius of 40-60mm and quite heavy force, so I really take of some chips, not only dust. for finishing 30mm radius seems to work good, using a more elastic scraper shaft, which seems to reduce chatter. Cheers Erich
it's true the radius is quite small. the grinder at my work is not made for this job. but I can practice
That shaper is going to scrap, if you scrape it. Leave it alone, practice on something else and gather knowledge and tools to get the job done.
How do you think I'm going to take my shaper to the scrapyard? I disagree. so please explain more than
@@DoMetalStuff I watched your videos on scraping, you have no idea what you are doing. My advice is to leave the shaper the way it is and practice on something else until you have some idea of what you are doing.
@@CastIronMachine Maybe you get the idea that I don't fully understand it. and that might well be the case. I'm practicing on a piece of cast iron. it is also a learning process for me. but I don't learn anything from your response. so please give some info.
@@DoMetalStuff I just did, you are not ready to scrape a machine, that is very useful information. You might get offended but it is the truth. Buy a proper scraper, it's not that expensive, buy a surface plate, buy a straight edge, practice on scrap cast iron, learn more. The information is available and you can learn it but don't hurry, this takes time and practice.
@@CastIronMachineI don't feel offended. but your first 2 responses don't help anyone anyway. I think it's a bit of a shame to buy a surface plate and a straight edge just for this project. those things are very expensive here in the Netherlands. is my flat ground piece of metal not good enough? but like I said, I'm still practicing and I'm not just starting with my shaper.