This Old PC Advice Aged like fine MILK! BEWARE!
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Something I learned early on, was that Windows Defender is really all you need in terms of virus/malware protection if you're not an idiot. Once I stopped using a 3rd party anti-virus, I noticed significantly better performance.
Yep I agree and maybe the occasional scan with antimalware like malwarebytes when you suspect something but I usually disable it or uninstall when I don't use it because i've seen it slightly slow down my PC as well for some odd reason
Amen!
This. I just ran Avast for years because that was the thing to do. Got fed up with the ever increasing amount of pop-ups and ads, went looking to find what the best replacements were, and yeah. Windows Defender was highly recommended. So I've been doing that for years now and it works great. Not the solution for grandma and grandpa who are far more likely to click random links and download random things, but for someone who knows what crap on the internet to avoid, it gets the job done.
True. I used to do a lot of Antivirus hopping in Win Vista/7 days. Haven't looked around for antivirus for almost a decade now except on googling how to COMPLETELY remove McAfee
Back around windows 7 defender had a reputation for being Swiss cheese but now and days it's a good anti-virus for most home PC's
I've been out of the PC game for close to 10 years and just started out again in early 2021. I really appreciate your channel and all the easily digestable information you are supplying. Thank you! My PC wouldn't look as well if it wasn't for this channel. Greetings from Austria!
PC tech 2020s is big and fast and rather boring.
Mostly everything just works...
@@joefish6091 You're right. Building a PC now is way more convenient than installing a game back in 1999.
Newer graphics cards keep getting less interesting and more normal and working out of the box, no tinkering required. kinda meh :/
@@U47VII welcome back! Check out Gamer's Nexus too, they have really helped me get caught up over the last few months.
He's the information supplier after all 😂
Excellent content. As an older enthusiast, (60) I've been in and out of computers as a hobby since i was a kid, depending on my where my finances were at any given point. Kids are expensive.😂 Its been ten years since I've dealt with new hardware, so this was a great quick refresh, as well as a reminder at how fast old computer knowledge can become obsolete. Thanks for this!
are you still defragging you ssd?🤣🤣🤣
@@SaraMorgan-ym6ue only on Wednesdays.
@@SaraMorgan-ym6ue I'm running my OS on a 5400 RPM drive. 🤣
@@zorkmid1083 you poor man I pity you🤣🤣
The thing is with defrag is that most operating systems will automatically defragment eligible drives for you. Windows actually doesn't allow you to defrag an SSD and instead you'll see an option to optimise or trim the drive instead.
that actually helped me... i hadn't owned a computer since my gateway back in the 90s, and got a new one, well... new as in it was new, but already old as hell. an i5 3470 cause it was cheap, and i've been actually learning what i wish i had in my teens. would've really made my experience a lot better back then if i hadn't been so tech illiterate. but i kinda freaked thinking it was set to defrag my ssd weekly, and only read 0% fragged on my hdd. so unchecked my ssd, but then i saw this and looked again, it obviously says optimized on it. so, preciate it.
Yes and i have found that the auto schedule is not so helpful with notebooks that spend most of their time asleep so i have worked on reportedly slow machines that had not run a TRIM cycle for hundreds of days. So please make sure defrag is running TRIM and about once a month is just fine or after every large file erasure.
@@Wahinies on pretty much all modern SSDs it's safe beneficial to run TRIM early and often. SSD being told to TRIM does 2 main things, flagging (ignore the data here this part is actually empty) which is done immediately, and the actual "emptying" work which is not (on modern SSDs). The actual writing-the-block-full-of-zeroes doesn't happen until the space is needed (specifically to prevent wearing the SSD out prematurely). Telling the SSD where it has "empty" space also prevents it from copying the unused data which is stored there, which REDUCES wear.
For a windows11 laptop setting the TRIM schedule to [daily] and ☑️[increased priority after consecutive missed] might be a good idea. If it's only on for a short time it probably won't actually run every day, but I'd rather it catch up after several days (~weeks) than after several weeks (~months).
Timestamps and advices:
1:00 - stock CPU coolers are OK if you're not planning to push your hi-end system to the maximum and beyond. Even more OK if you're living in a colder climate with a lower ambient temp in your room.
5:30 - DO NOT defragment your SSD. HDDs still require defragmentation (my personal note: nowadays windows by default launches defragmentation automatically every week so you still don't have to do it manually)
7:34 - there's no point arguing about the fan types (airflow or static pressure), most fans are hybrid now, so you should pay more attention to things like loudness, aesthetics, motor design, anti vibration pads etc
10:43 - PSU efficiency bell curve changed to be more smooth at higher loads which means the efficiency doesn't drop so quickly after the 50% load so you don't have to buy a 1600W PSU for a 800W system. But it's still recommended to have some head room, so buy a 800W PSU for a 600W system
16:00 - Do not use powered USB-hubs for things like 4K webcams, Elgato stuff and other devices which transfers a lot of data, because it all goes through a single USB-port which may not be able to handle this much data. And also device's own software may not work properly when using a hub. Using a hub for just power is OK
Bless you
Damn, that USB advice is great advice.
Thanks
Thanks.
Somtimes it is useful to trim a ssd
I love how this channel remembers to talk to new PC users. So many channels just cover the higher end stuff.
I've been working with computers longer than Jay - And I still like to hear this newer advice. Remember that things change and skills from the past need updating too!
Ray Jay Computers
I started watching this channel last year when I built my first computer and Jay was just as easy to understand then as he is now. It can never hurt to cover all the bases even if you think everyone will be in the know.
it has to be said, high end stuff is just very cool to look at, but if you're looking for real information you probably need a video about middle/lower hardware and stuff that is simple to understand.
That is why this channel is so precious to me.
Amen. I intermittently refer back to basics in my field (automotive technician.) Keeps me from getting stuck in the weeds.
I know right? One of that channel is LTT
I've built 3 computers over the years and typically do a new build every 7 to 10 years on average. Everytime I go for a new build I have to look things up again because everything is out dated...
I've built 11 systems as a hobby... but aside from some moderately basic Laptop upgrades I haven't really dabbled in any builds for 10-ish years. Thank you SO much for this video which has helped me catch-up on improvements and variations in the art! Very informative and helpful video! 😁 More, please?
Oh yeah - last 10 years have had massive changes.
I actually built my first system in 2013. Almost exactly 10 years ago haha.
The availability of good, cheap SSDs, Stock Coolers on lower/midrange CPUs not being automatic trash, and honestly even just Air Cooling options being amazing in general have really changed things.
I remember being told in 2013 that I needed to water cool if I wanted the best performance. Instead, I got addicted to Noctua CPU coolers and fans :)
What you think of using psu without plus stickers? like a thermaltake 550w or a smart 350w psu for a low end pc?
@@I_enjoy_some_things"massive" is a very relative term. Compared to previous decades, we haven't seen that much revolutionary stuff, rather it was about getting more out of a CPU like adding more cores, threads, etc.
A 2014 CPU is still comparable to a 2024 CPU. The improvements are obvious, but it's not really an "insane" improvement. Try comparing an 80386SL from 1990 with a nice Pentium 4 from 2000.
fun fact about SSDs and defrag, during the earlier SSD days you had to specifically tell windows NOT to defrag it, As sometimes windows would automatically defrag your drives. Today the OS knows you stuck an SSD in there and turns off that feature of automatic action.
It won't even let you optionally Defrag it.
The last winders update ate my dual boot. I have a winders drive and a linux drive.
IF I have to kick windows to the curb I will. I have done it before. Won't make the wife happy.
AS for games I can live without them.
@@warrenpuckett6134 gaming is good on Linux.
@@azugn5739 Let's be honest. Gaming on Linux has gotten to a decent state, but it's not as plug and play as Windows. You can get most games running on Linux, but some will just behave oddly, and some will take hours or days of tweaking to get working properly.
I'm super excited for the day when all games on Linux are just download and go, but we're not quite there yet.
Not sure were you found that info at. I do a lot of Tech support and I have see windows updates turn on defrag in the system event timer and then defrag SSD's to death. Just pull one out of a 1 year old system back in November were windows defragged a Nvme drive to the point were the reserve was completely gone and the drive hard started getting unrecoverable sectors in the main partition. OS Windows 10 sp20h2 drive Western Digital Black 500gb Nvme
Another benefit to custom coolers: noise level. That could be a reason to upgrade as well.
That's why I'm rocking a Noctua on my now-old Ryzen build... it might be more cooling capacity than I'll ever need, given how lightly I use this system, but it's even quieter than the already-quiet Wraith coolers I've used before.
I like the fans loud. When I hear the fans running when I'm watching TV, it reminds me to shut my system down.
@@jbucata the wraith is audible in idle for me on a 3900x tbh 😅 But yeah definetely a good point!
I had an old AMD FX-8350 with the stock cooler that sounded like a jet engine under load - lol - Ended up selling that system and building something with an i7 3770k and a Noctua cooler.
Running a custom loop now to run my fans basically at idle and no noise even with an OC'd 3090/5800x
This has absolutely stopped me making a couple of errors on my first ever build. I had a lot of uni mates who made computers back in the day and this covers a lot of what I retained from them. I've even swapped out the PSU in my shopping cart for one with a bit more headroom than it had. Thanks for the advice!
I love how the 5600's are dying while my old 5950x is still going nice and strong and it is apparently due to the cooler not keeping up with the 5600s heat generation to the level my 250 watt be quiet cooler is keeping my 5950x cool to
I've gotten a few people to switch to PC during my time in the Navy, helped a few build their first tower and i always reference them to your vids.
Thanks a lot and keep it up ^^
Just to expand on your comments on defragging a drive, Jay: Defrag on a hard drive was to move sectors that were written and rewritten to be together - i.e. make sure all the data that should be together, is, so that the head on the drive doesn't have to seek any more than it absolutely needs to in order to access your data.
On an SSD this is not needed, as there is no physical head to move and it doesn't actually matter what data is stored in what sector.
you cant run defrag on an SSD in windows anyway. it wont do it. Jay missed that one.
@@forestR1 Yes, it's called optimize drives, it runs trim on ssd. Atleast I think so. Just DON'T use defraggler or any other 3rd party defragmenting software.
@@forestR1 correct. windows has disabled disk defrag on SSDs since they build trim into a win7 update. even if you try to run windows defragger on an ssd it will "optimize" aka run trim on the drive, not defrag it
@@forestR1 yes you can still defrag an ssd on windows, regardless of warning popups or os-specific feature 'lockout' .. to say you can't is just a myth. Further, 3rd party apps dont care about M$ nanny 'features'
@@Tsiikki except some extemely narrow circumstances (which one mostly finds on servers and workstations, and can be limited to only defragging specific files). There can be a benefit in performance due to being able to send less commands to read the file.
I upgraded about a year ago.
The technician had good laugh because I wanted my CD/DVD drive installed.
"You won't need that because everything is online and you get just download it"
1 week later: "I was so glad you kept that driver. My internet kept interrupting the download and caused improper installation errors. I was able to use a physical copy to get it running".
So yeah, just because everything's online, doesn't mean it's reliable.
You could have probably used a flash drive
Haven't had a disc drive for 7 years.
Things you know when you have enough life experience to not rely on one technology only. Can’t wait to see those kids get around after the next Carrington event.
I got a USB connectable blu ray reader and digitalized my entire DVD/Blu Ray collection that way. I'm finally done with the plastic disc mediums, but I like to have it as a back-up, which is also why I don't use a cloud, but keep my data on external HDDs stored in drawers. But hey, I still use CDs in my car! Gotta make a new mix MP3 CD like every 3-4 years. I still need my disc drive, just not permanently installed into the PC case anymore.
Note - in areas where mains is 240V, many power supplies still do have a much more pronounced bell curve of efficiency.
Oh wow. I didn't know that. I have 220v. Isn't 240 more efficient than 110?
@@QueertyUCR , yes, it is more efficient to transmit power at higher voltages. I'm not exactly sure why power supplies at higher voltages drop off faster - I'd guess it was because they are designed to maximise commonality between 110V and 220/240V, so 110V supplies *might* actually be 240V supplies in disguise, which is why the efficiency dropoff doesn't show up at 110V. This is wild speculation though.
@@Infinite_Maelstrom The voltage doesn't really matter for conversion efficiency in this case, the difference is in the voltage frequency and transformer efficiency. Basically, the lower the AC frequency, the less efficient a transformer is which is where most of the losses are now. I think most 240v mains are 50hz while our 120hz mains are 60hz. The size required for a transformer to convert a given amt of power is directly proportional to the frequency with lower hz generating more waste heat for a given power as well. Modern 'switch-mode' power supplies achieve their remarkable efficiency by converting the low frequency mains to extremely high frequency AC, allowing for tiny transformers and way less waste heat.
It's not a huge difference between 50 to 60hz for switching PSUs because there's other losses that are the same for both low frequencies but, yeah, modern efficient conversion is achieved with high frequency AC which is something I never used to think in terms of. This also allows the greatly reduced size/weight of modern power supplies and was yet another product of semiconductors (specifically fast transistors).
@@Infinite_Maelstrom I guess it's just harder to step down to lower voltages.
Not true. As a power supply designer - I know this is absolutely false. You are taking in half the current but at double the voltage. In areas at 120V - you are taking half the voltage at double the current. In the end, you are delivering AND consuming the same amount of power.
Now if you are talking about power lines - yes, it is more efficient to transfer at a far higher voltage and lower current.
my first build was with a ryzen 7 2700x with a wraith cooler, I overclocked it like 4.2-4.4. the wraith cooler handled it like a champ. I loved it.
I'm still running this exact setup, works like a charm ;D
I'm OCing a 5700G with a single fan noctua air cooler to 4.2GHz and it's perfectly stable.
When you talked about stock coolers, you left out one important reason many people still like to upgrade, that is for silent PC builds for studio and lab use which use an oversized cooler and fan then run it at half capacity. Combined with a high efficiency PSU and SSDs, you can get close to total silence.
I agree with you (as someone who runs their NF-A12x25 case fans at 850rpm and their NF-A14 radiator fans at 550rpm). I know Jay is the type of guy who runs his fans at full speed all the time, so as I was watching this video, I was thinking to myself "let's see if Jay remembers to talk about the silence benefits of using an "over spec cooler."
I've got Dark Rock Pro 4 on my 2700x, bought it and Dark Base 900 in order to silence my pc, and the difference is night and day, although i wish i could silence my aorus 1070 Ti... for some explicable reason i refused to get a triple fan model back then as i was researching for like 2 weeks to build my pc after a friend told me about Ryzen and how good they are, i basically stopped following tech since it was just quad cores forever, except for a GPU upgrade every 3 years. For the next build in like a year or later imma make sure to get a silent gpu(great cooling, with not much if any extra OC by the vendor, also learn to idk what the right word it but to lower it's wattage a bit, usually these gpus are a bit too highly clocked).
@@kiloneie I think you mean either underclocking or lowering the power limit on your GPU... but if it's about noise, I don't know why you wouldn't just adjust your fan curve to not go above what you consider a "noisy" level... unless you're doing super gpu intense production or gaming at 4k, you probably won't hit those high temps anyway. If you do, the GPU will automatically downclock.
Or do both, that would be pretty foolproof. It's nice to not throttle the GPU when it might need some short bursts of power, though.
@@pkennethv Jay is the one that had 3 radiators in his build which ran passive when no workload (rendering, gaming, etc) was applied.
But still agree. A better cooler can either mean better cooling at the same noise level, or the same cooling at a quieter noise level (or somewhere in between)
That's why I tend to cram as many fans in useful spaces as my case allows. More (and bigger) fans means less noise, because they can run slower and move the same amount of air.
About GPU noise, it's all relative. So far I had no card that needed more than maybe 40-50% on the fan to stay cool under load, even with oc. And often enouogh it takes 50-60% for it to be really audible. So in idle I can't hear them among my background noise (like a clock or the fridge). And when gaming I got the game audio on speakers or headphones which drowns out any fan noise anyway. When in doubt, adjusting the fan curve solvs any overlap.
There will always be exceptions and specific use cases. A stock cooler usually isn't good enough for overclocking either. It's good for running things stock. If you have custom needs, you need custom parts.
6:59 Defragging on an SSD shouldn't be possible with current Windows versions of defrag (basically Windows 8 and newer). If you now run defrag on an SSD, it will instead run the TRIM command on the target SSD. Crucial has a very good explanation of what TRIM command is and how it works on their website that is worth a read.
*Thank* you!
Windows 10 runs SSD optimization every so often, I think.
Not to mention fragmentation simply isnt a problem with SSDs. The problem with fragmentation was how often the drive would have to seek and average seek time on an HDD is noticeably slow, but on most SSDs it's very close to 0.
This is true, perhaps he should have mentioned 3rd party defrag tools like defraggler etc, which may not trim data and instead move data around without caring if it's an SSD
That's a relief
Thank you it’s hard to believe it was actually almost 10 years ago I first learned how to build a pc, and this channel was a big part of that!
Ahhhh the good old old PC days, i used to be a real computer nerd 20+ years ago, building and upgrading desktops as well as learning everything i could about component hardware as well as program software, times and technology have certainty moved on heaps and bounds.
There is still great fun in building a new computer today, some things have just become confusing and over complicated, computer and PC component companies have kinda sapped the enjoyment out of PC building for a lot of people, who are either wanting to make their first new desktop etc, or haven't built one in a long time like myself.
JayzTwoCents is a great guy and TH-cam channel who always offers good, constructive and sound advice to his audience, no matter whether you are a computer pro, semi pro or newbie, he offers something for everyone.
I got very interesred in computer building again about 6 years ago and came across JayzTwoCents TH-cam channel which appeared in the recommendation feed, I've learnt so much from him since and watch his videos when he is discussing a PC topic that I'm interested in.
Keep up the good work JayzTwoCents 👍😉
For power supplies I always say it's the one item in your pc you absolutely shouldnt skimp out on
Cause it's really the ONLY part that could not only take out your pc but your entire house depending how bad the short is
100%, early in my PC building days, I fried two motherboards, GPUs, and even a monitor, because I was buying cheap no-name PSUs and trying to overclock. Never again!
Definitely never run with an inadequate or low quality power supply. Apart from anything else reliability will fall through the floor. A lot of things that look like software issues - especially OS crashing, - ultimately turn out to be down to power supply problems.
For SO many years I built to the lowest cost possible. BIOSTAR and lower end Gigabyte mobos, overclocked celerons (the upright ones, remember those?), cheapest PSUs. And it was just headache after headache. To the point where it reflected poorly on me with my family. Then I finally said scr&$ it, and got a new gaming 2nd Gen i7 on an Asus Mobo with Corsair RAM and an EVGA 650W PSU. Absolutely rock solid since day one, with many upgrades. Learned my lesson. That PC was retired gracefully and with all honors after 9 years of service.
Let me tell you of a horror story:
I used my laptop with a cord that had a short in it for over 2 years. I didn't realize it was a short, nor did my mother who is very familiar with electrical components (She might have known had I not had the respective part covered with tape because it was a bright ass light). Spent that whole time not being able to really charge my battery, but otherwise could still use the laptop.
@@Kio_Kurashi interesting?
Just a side note here. On Windows 10/11 if you go into the disk defragmenter and try to defrag a SSD it actually executes a trim instead.
was about to write that and then seen someone beat me to it
whats a trim
@@Ravenbones its when someone cuts your hair
@@Ravenbones "A trim command allows an operating system to inform a solid-state drive which blocks of data are no longer considered to be 'in use' and therefore can be erased internally"
When you delete something, it's still on an SSD until trim literally takes the garbage out
100% true. My fave os win 8.1 knows the difference. Will trim an ssd, Defrag spinning drives. And the Defrag makes recovery of data on a spinning drive so much easier.
For people who wonder what trim is, it's basically a cache clearing command that's deleting remnants of already deleted files and unused sectors that are temporary
Trimming also improves wear levelling and performance for the next write.
Also just to add to the PSU thing: headroom matters more for high end systems because high end GPUs have massive power draw spikes. RTX 3090 was notorious for throttling on PCs with PSUs that were supposedly enough, according to regular wisdom! I think I remember reading somewhere that the RTX 3090 can spike beyond double it's rated TDP quite regularly
From my understanding, ATX 3.0 certified PSUs are designed to handle those spikes (using capacitors and so on). So if it's not ATX 3.0, then you need to make sure you have a lot of headroom but if it is, you just need a little.
@@morlankey I don't trust manus. to 'follow spec' so closely. However, you're correct. Latest ATX standard demanded longer 'hold up time' under 'transient load' conditions.
TBQH, I'm incredibly surprised that noone's ever made a 'supercaps-on-plug' PCIe extension.
Something you missed that I think should be pointed out: On newer versions of Windows, disk defragmenting(and trimming and garbage collection for SSDs) is carried out automatically. So even if someone is running Windows off a mechanical drive, there is almost never a reason for them to defragment it themselves, it's most likely already been done recently in the background.
Unless they changed it to not automatically do it which I've gotten a pre owned like that once was annoying because they never did it so ssd swapped it lol
ive realized that. every time i come to defrag my mechanical drives its always already done
@Telleva Don't say that. My old 4Gb hdd had new life every time I defraget it on 98' with stock defrag
Yes, since Windows Vista this task is made automatically when the PC is idle.
Isn't defrag even disabled now it detects SSD? I swear it's not even available. Instead it gives an options like "optimize drive" which doesn't defrag but does some other sort of appropriate cleanup.
Small nit pick: Defragmenting isn’t about drive “health” per se for spinning drives, it’s about performance… reducing the need for random access of related sectors, minimizing track head movement. When the OS writes data it defaults to “first fit” allocation. When you defrag, you’re reallocating to “best fit”, trying to line up as many sectors that are related to each other as possible. The irony is that modern file systems ( ntfs included ) operates on the principle that sectors in the FS are allocated sparsely to give you consistent performance, so defragging theoretically shouldn’t have done much for performance anyway on modern windows systems.
But of course your main point is absolutely true: there is no point at all to defragging an SSD. All you’re doing is reducing the life of your SSD
I always described the old SSD writing method as the SHOTGUN Method. Basically instead of everything being in one spot like youd do when putting books on a shelf the computer basically loaded it up like a shotgun shell and blasted the SSD. Resulting in the data for a program being everywhere, aka a shotgun spread. Defraging at its simplest took these spread out bits of data and then regrouped them next to each other for ease of access.
Id say the "health" benefit for the drive was that instead of needing to spin and spin and spin, and for the read/write arm to continuely move up and down the platter, a defraged file meant less wear and tear on the mechanical parts and extending the drives life before hitting what I called "Drive Senility". You know that point where you click a program and your drive takes 5 minutes to realize it should of been doing somthing.
Trimming is the new 'defrag'. You know how deleting stuff doesn't actually remove it from the harddrive? Trimming resets 'deleted' bits to 0, and actually does help with performance.
The simpler explanation would be that a fragmented hard drive has the data that you accumulated over time in the same folder in different places which is why the drive head has to move far across.
Defragmentation puts the data right next to each other according to your file system meaning the data you put in your folder at different times is now right next to each other giving you faster read speeds.
At least that's how I always understood it.
PS.: HDD wear is mostly influenced by heat btw because of magnetic shingles it uses, so while some malfunctions may be due to mechanical movement most of failures I've heard about were due to heat being the primary cause.
SSDs of course put the data in cells which can all be accessed at the same speed at the same time, and the drive itself shuffles bits around to avoid defective or used cells to keep the drive at an even wear.
So they are never actually fragmented or rather fragmentation is their preferred state and will always be fragmented.
And the SSD does health checks by itself already.
Minimizing track head movement will increase drive's life span. So it is about Health as it is about performance.
I have been using WIndows XP 64-bit (which has no TRIM at all) installed on an SSD.
It was my main system for a long time, stable, fast af before I was forced to buy a new PC.
SSD is still at 99% Health. And yes, it did defragment. And it was fast, too...
I was aware of not wanting to defrag an SSD, but the updates on fans, power supplies, and USB hubs were very helpful. Thank you.
Damn so I can't say "sorry, I have to go home and defragment my hard drive" to people anymore
Steve from GN has shown the 80+ means nothing. Manufacturers can put in a model for testing for the 80+ then after being awarded a rating, the manufacturers can change the internals of the PSU and it can no longer reach a 80+ titanium for example but they get to keep the original rating
That's why everything should have testing done on market models; but just cause things should be that way doesn't mean the current system means nothing.
It's like saying every cars emission ratings mean nothing because they could be pulling a Volkswagen.
Any brand with a reputation to uphold risks losing the reputation if they are caught, and for things like PC hardware that get 3rd party tested all the time these things will eventually get caught. LMG Labs will be a great step forward in this regard.
If we are to follow the logical conclusion of your post that means we just shouldn't buy power supplies because by the same logic they also could not meet the wattage ratings they claim or blow out early from not reaching the 80+ rating so its also meaningless and there is no usable metric to decide what to buy.
The fact that you don't agree with the above is an indication you need to add more nuance to your posts because you focused only on the fact that its possible for manufacturers to lie therefore that is all you must care about.
Plantinum and titanium save you negligible money on your utility bills
@@nocare You've made some big assumptions from my post merely because I didn't mention some things. Not every one wants to write an essay for a TH-cam comment.
But to answer your poor assumptions, when choosing a PSU to buy, go with the wattage you need from a reputable brand with good independent reviews. Ignore the 80+ rating as with the poor standards implemented by the ratings body, it is an arbitrary number
@@rossharper1983 that's the thing. If the rating is flawed so it the wattage by the same arguments.
@@nocare Not, because the wattage isn't given by a 3rd party standards agency. The manufacturer says it's a 1000w, the manufacturer doesn't say it's 80+ gold, the testing body does.
The manufacturer can then change internal components for whatever reason that maybe inadvertently makes it no longer 80+ gold, but if they make less than 1000w and still sell it as 1000w they are breaking the law as knowingly false advertising. Because they don't have to resubmit the PSU for 80+ rating every time they change an internal part then they aren't doing anything illegal.
Regarding power supplies:
I still have to explain to a surprising amount of people that their PC is not going to pull all the power the PSU can provide all the time while it's on
No Steve, your PC does not pull 650W when all you're doing is viewing a word document on an i3 and integrated graphics, do i have to tell you that for the 800th time?
Similarly, I have had people ask me if using a battery with higher capacity than the original one in a car could cause harm.
Its the same as your electrical panel. You normally will never pull that may amps at once.
@@falcon-ng6sd
I was thinking hard about how do you even replace your car's battery, then realized you are talking about the small 12V one, not the 1200lbs integrated one.
When people aren’t familiar with a subject it takes a while to adjust to things you think are just common sense. Just saying.
@@Adizzle235 it's one thing when they don't get it at first but you can eventually explain it to them properly
It's another thing when they're so confident that YOU'RE wrong, and won't listen to anything you try to explain, and keep believing in whatever they think, it makes my blood simmer
This is a really nice form of video. This answers a lot of specific questions in advance that may come up for casuals like me. I appreciate this and hope for more
Wow, great information. It's been years since I checked into this kind of stuff (too much horrible work burning out my brain). Definitely following your channel to get my knowledge up to date.
In Windows 10, the "Optimize Drives" now runs TRIM on solid state drives instead of defragmentation.
Which is fine, but pretty much any SSD drive bought in the last... probably five years or so, already runs TRIM every so often anyway.
@@nickllama5296 SSDs don't TRIM themselves.
Drive does not care what data/filesystem/OS it's hosting, and would have no way of knowing what data is active and what is just leftovers in free space. It's the job of OS to tell it what to TRIM/DISCARD/UNMAP/etc.
@@nickllama5296 You have to tell the SSD to run TRIM
@@JusticeGamingChannel You don't tell the "SSD to run TRIM", you trim every single block that you don't need. Older SSDs may have tried to wipe the block in real-time but modern drive controllers just note this in their allocation table and deal with it at their convenience (especially QLC drives, there is no reason to rewrite the data from other layers just to wipe one if you have enough already-wiped blocks).
But you need to trim so that the drive controller knows what blocks are no longer needed, without this information it can only rewrite a block when the data is modified (which on a SSD means "written to a new cell somewhere else and remapped in the allocation table"), and worse, without trim it'll go rewriting unneeded data during the internal optimization process, burning through your write cycles.
Trim just works automatically in the background in Windows and macOS (and I believe on desktop focused Linux although I'd have to go looking to confirm exactly what they're doing).
@@thedave1771 For desktop Linux, it depends on the distribution; for example, Ubuntu 20.04 has a systemd timer to run `fstrim --fstab` (trims blocks on all registered filesystems) weekly by default.
I've built a few PC's over the years and it's VERY important to keep your advice and knowledge base up to date because things change REALLY fast... My old desktop PC was built in a case that now is around 20 years old, it was solid enough for that but now the USB's have changed, PSU sizes have changed, fan sizes have changed, GPU's are bigger, we have liquid cooling options now... that case won't cut it anymore (I really like the case but it's time for a new one). Got to move with the times sometimes.
Ehh, you can just get a USB and USB-C front panel for 5.25 inch bays to keep your PC up to date, they aren't that expansive (tough, the USB C ones are always more expansive), PSU's haven changed in terms if size. In fact you can just put a modern PSU in in a case for a Pentium 2 if you want. In fact the PSU fan will help with airflow in your case if they are top-mounted. bigger GPU's can be a factor if you go for high-end, but you can solve it with removing the drive cages.
The only thing with old cases that really limits building, is if they have no top-fan mounting. That one thing is really bad for old cases. Especially if the backfan are only 2 80mm spots instead of 1 120mm.
@@thundereagle4130 top fan mounting? You can drill one lol, but there is no space too.
Yeah I haven't built a system in over a decade, but follow as much info as I can so I at least still know what is current best advice. Nothing is worse then falling behind the times.
the PSUs are all a pretty standard size, and still use the same 4 screw-hole positions that have been in ATX cases since the late 90s. But as others said, you could always get a usb/usb-c front panel for one of the bays.
@@caitlinomalley80 It's the cooling that' the main problem, no fan mounts outside the existing ones and there's only 3 iirc, one front behind a solid panel, one rear and one side which all take smaller fans. I could keep it as a legacy system and run older titles that don't work on my new systems assuming I can find my old copy of Windows XP. Lol.
Gosh. Almost everything I did to maintain or build my PC is now wrong.
Some of your advice seemed tongue in cheek.
I am glad you explained this.
Things change.
Jay's explanation about the 80+ ratings on PSUs was awesome and I'm sure we all understood him. However, I just want to rectify one thing from his calculation of how many watts are needed to be pulled from the wall by an 80%-efficient 1000-W PSU to provide max output. It's actually 1250W, not 1200W. Just wanted to get that out there. 😁
Anyway, I've learned and am learning so much from this channel, and I'm very grateful. More power to JayzTwoCents! 👍
Jay I used your videos from 2019 and 2020 to learn from and begin my research on how to build my own computer and find the right parts. In July of 2020 I finally built said computer and going off your advice I am still reaping the rewards of the PC that I built. Just wanted to say thank you for those videos back then and all the content you are still producing! Keep it up my dude!
Ayyyy!! Same! I informed my decisions for parts around his videos and also built mine in July! I'll tell you tho, I was initially bummed that didn't have enough to get a 2060 instead of an rx590 but in hindsight I grabbed a decent mid-range card. Lmao.
@@dirg3music I picked up the XFX 5600XT, couldn't afford much else.
Personally I would still swap out a stock air cooler with a 120mm air cooler simply because those stock coolers can be loud AF sometimes.
This!
This is why I swapped out my stock Ryzen 3600X cooler for a nice Cooler Master air cooler. The temps are a little bit better, of course, but my main reason was the noise. It's so much quieter now.
@@lehelisbored what's ironic too, is that CM actually makes the stock coolers. They're decent enough but get a bit loud at times.
i got a custom cooler that came with my computer but i notice throttling after a few months... do i need to change the thermal paste? Pc runs kinda hot
@@Zipppyart imo it has nothing to do with which manufacturer made the stock coolers. The downdraft stock ones have smaller fans, so they have to spin faster to move the same amount of air a 120mm fan does while spinning slower, thus creating more noise. Could be wrong tho, but to me it's like comparing the acoustics of a 140mm to a 120mm fan while "moving the same amount of air"
Built a PC in 2012, took it out of the shed and it started up like a champ! Phenom 6 X-2 12 Gig RAM Cas L. 9 Solid champ, paired with a 660Ti
thanks for these advices.
I am now planning to update my 10 year old system and esp. the PSU-thing helps a lot to make an decision.
01:00 "Stock coolers are garbage"
05:29 "Defragment your drive"
07:33 "Fan Types Matter"
10:43 "Should I prioritize higher PSU wattage or higher efficiency?"
16:00 "Always use a powered USB hub"
awesome tldw, thank you
Thanks man, saved me 20 minutes
**Never use a powered USB hub**
THIS. Jay, please segment your videos in the timeline. Hate to say it but “linus does…”
As someone else has stated, 7:33 is "Fan types *don't* matter" and 16:00 " *Never* use a USB hub"
To add onto the USB hub topic, a good alternative is a USB add on card. Normally will net you at least 4 extra USB ports and you’ll have the added benefit of them having their own controller, as well as being connected straight to the pc
Excellent option. To take it even further, when selecting your USB add on card if you have sufficient money and available PCIE lanes, you actually can get one that has 4 controllers instead of one...one for each physical port. That way, each port gets a full 5gbps, 20gbps total for the card. This will of course require a 4x pcie slot or larger (and will be more expensive than a 1x card), but depending on the users needs, might be worth it. Beyond that, invest in quality cables and triple confirm their actual speed rating when purchasing (especially since without a hub in between, you'll probably be needing longer cables). It's surprising how many inexpensive USB-C cables out there are actually USB2.0 (480mbps) spec because, as Jay pointed out USB-C is actually just the physical connector and doesn't guarantee anything other than the fact that you can plug it in upside down if you want...
I thought this was a good idea but when I tried one from Amazon that reviews said worked with the VR headset I also had, my sensors were still having issues using this pci-e card. So it's a bit hit or miss whether they actually work properly sometimes. They'll usually work for small things but for heavy usage it could be random.
I think hubs are still useful for certain applications - my PC is a bit out of reach, so having a hub (i got one with built in SD/microSD reader) makes plugging in portable storage like flash drives and memory cards way easier since it can be on my desktop
Yup on this, i have a Saitek x-55 hooked up and my mainboard couldn't supply enough power to keep both components running under heavy input. Got a USB3.0 addin card and i have had no issues going on 7 years. The card does have a Molex power input to supplement off the PCI-e bus.
Funny story, I have an RGB cooler master keyboard I really like, but the LEDs wouldn't turn off when the computer is at sleep state. So I bought a x4 USB 3 expansion card, and changed the Windows power policy to not send power to the card at sleep.
My advice is to subscribe to this channel. You nailed it when you mentioned building a computer after 10 years. That old-school advice was new 10 years ago but now ...old. Excellent information. Thank you!
Still have a 580w bequiet powersupply from 2006 - my first prebuild pc. The supply got coil whine in around 2011-2012 everytime my pc was turned off which didnt bother me because of a Toggle switch power strip at my setup. It still worked and was used in my primary pc until the end of 2021 with a system i bought at the end of 2013. That PC was used between 6-14h daily so not that bad.
I’ve been around your channel on and off for close to 5 years, this is the type of content that keeps me coming back, no BS, just “here are the facts, and here’s why your stupid, don’t be stupid.” But it’s info people need to hear in order to push through all the marketing bs and keyboard warrior techies. Good stuff as always.
"You're."
Quick Note, in markets outside of the US, the 80+ standars and definitely still a thing. 80+ is the most common and the silver and gold are considered enthusiast. I have been a PC builder for 6 year now here in Colombia and I have seen just a couple of Titaniums
I'm not sure that holds up for the majority of countries though. Though considering you do live down in south America where things are a lot more expensive in many areas, it does make sense.
@@donovan6320 You are right. I think that holds for emergin markets like South America.
@@juselara02 yeah I wasn't going to call you guys Poor or anything and I feel like calling you guys "Emerging" has that connotation. I was just going to say everything was comparatively more expensive.
yes you're right, i have been a pc builder aprox 15 or More years, here in Colombia in all the years building pc, the first Gold PSU i saw was a Corsair HX, and in 2005 i saw a seasonic platinum, but, all of them was imported or bought in the usa, the local market was full of generic (codegen and Delux) PSU, the only "real wattage" PSUs was Thermaltake and the first 80+ PSUs in the market was Corsair...but expensive AF... Now in these years i have seen gold, platinum and some titanium, but, the same story... Expensive
Also very important: The 80 Plus rating is usually for 115 V. So if you live in a 230 V country, make sure that the 80 Plus rating is specifically for 230 V.
Also to the defrag thing.... if you are running NTFS as a file system, it is rather resistant to fragmentation. I stayed on FAT32 until I moved to Windows 7. I ran defrag monthly as part of my normal maintenance and was rather shocked when I ran into my drives that were virtually fragmentation-free. I dropped it from my network maintenance checklist after 4 or 5 months. And I was moving HUGE amounts of data around on my home network at the time.
I've run Linux, and switched to XFS filesystem and never worried about fragmentation again... and even the EXTn (where n = 2, 3, 4) filesystems are rather fragmentation resistant compared to the stupid disk sector algorithms used by Microsoft filesystems.
@@akulkis from Windows 7 onwards, disk fragmentation is virtually non-existent. Not everyone wants (or can) switch to Linux. Glad it worked for you.
@@harlech2 it's there, it just does it automatically in down time. From Windows 7 on, mechanical hard drives get defragged as part of Window routine automatic maintenance. SSD drives are NOT automatically defragged (and as Jay says, it's best not to)
Unless you changed Windows 7's (or later) defrag schedule then the reason your hard drives were fragmentation free is because Windows 7 and on automatically defrags hard drives (not SSD's obviously) on a schedule that runs during down time.
I think powered hubs are still a good idea, but you need to have some idea of the bandwidth vs power consumption of the device. The elgato streamdeck doesn't use a lot of data, but uses a ton of power. The elgato facecam uses a moderate amount of power, but uses an absolute firehose worth of data. The streamdeck can go on the powered hub, the camera needs to go to an actual port (which is usually also a hub attached to a single USB controller on your motherboard but...)
Yeah I use powered USB 3.0 hubs at work and at home.
If you connect one to your KVM (or monitor that has a KVM), you can easily swap all of your required devices between your work computer/home computer.
As much as Jay says modern mouse and keyboards require more bandwidth than those can provide, I call bullshit. My powered USB hub runs a 1080p webcam, a mechanical keyboard, a "gaming" house, a separate mechanical numpad, a blue yeti mic and an 8bitdo ultimate controller.
None of them have polling issues. None of them lose connection. None of them have any issues.
whats kvm @@GossamerSolid
This was _extremely_ helpful. I was an enthusiast many years ago but dropped out and so a lot of my knowledge is out of date. The last gaming PC I built was back in the mid 2000s, with HDD's and CRT's. Then I went to grad school and put gaming aside. For the past 10-15 years, I've been using laptops for work. I was thinking of building a gaming rig but then the pandemic hit and here we are. I've been finding that a lot of my knowledge is out of date but, worse, some stuff I think I know but I'm wrong. So this video was very helpful.
My work laptop has Thunderbolt 3, and I don't know what I would do without it. I get my whole desktop setup (mic, headphones, webcam, keyboard, mouse, external monitor and AC power) all on one hub (the Caldigit one everyone recommends) going through one cable to my laptop. When I have to leave, I just pull one plug and my stuff for travel is already packed. When I get home, I only have one cable to plug in. For me, Thunderbolt is mandatory for future laptops. You just need to make sure you have a high-quality hub and a proper cable and you'll be fine.
The other big thing I noticed is that the websites I used to trust for reviews have mostly gone way downhill. Most were bought out by big mainstream media corporations. The quality of the analysis and writing is way down, and most are very clearly just regurgitating manufacturers' PR talking points. It seems like the new center of gravity for PC build advice and reviews is on TH-cam. Thanks for the great advice!
so many using covid as the excuse not to do something
I agree about review websites seeming to be almost useless now and TH-cam being where the info is.
@@Google_Does_Evil_Now TH-cam reviews are sponsored
@@scallen3841 there’s trusted techtubers out there that wouldn’t lie to their viewers for money from a sponser you know
@@mas7rreaper126 We will never know will we
"Fan marketing isn't about static pressure vs airflow anymore. It's all about RGB"
We've truly regressed as a society
Second take: we've all agreed on what's good for the practical effects of fans and have moved on to -pointless- aesthetics.
What *doesn't* have RGB on it at this point? Front Panels, Graphics Cards, Fans, SSDs, RAM all have it. Do people think the fancy colours actually improve the performance or something?
@@maxtornogood No, but it gets them more fake Internet points on r/battlestations.
Personally, I don't plan on ever having a RGB anything, and would rather just have a plain metal box. My current case is from 2005 with a big fan occupying 4 of the 5.25" drive bays.
I'm so broke I just want one that works
@@user2C47 good luck. Most decent hardware is rgb these days. You could maybe turn it off in software but ive find usually there's at least one light i can't figure out how to turn off with any kind of software
The three things I most remember about CPU coolers are:
1: Bodging later generation coolers onto obsolete CPU types, sometimes by using thermal epoxy if the mounts couldn't be made to fit.
2: Having to replace the stock cooler on an E-machine not for performance reasons but because the undersized fan made a nasty "wasp in a jar" buzz that annoyed the heck out of me.
3: Reading about the Danamics LMX Superleggera
I found the exact same thing with usb hubs. They definitely can be problematic trying to support multiple high bandwidth or otherwise demanding device. I've even tried several different, quality USB hubs trying to find one where I don't get phantom usb connectivity issues. I've done the same thing and migrated as much as I can onto machine ports. (hard when my main pc is a laptop with only three ports!) USB2 seems more reliable so I have a usb2 hub with some stuff that only needs to be USB2 speeds, keeping the two usb3 ports on the laptop for dedicated stuff.
One thing I miss in laptops actually is PCI bus expandability.
One man’s stock cooler is another man’s treasure.
"The old days..." for me were when nobody had cooling for the CPU, and usually the only fan was in the back of the power supply. Fan, singular. There was no such thing as RGB lighting effects, because "B" hadn't been invented yet (really). And for floating point efficiency, you needed to install a separate math co-processor, something few people bothered with. If you were wealthy enough to afford a hard drive or two, defragging was a necessity, and your storage maxed out around 20MB... and those were the new, fancy hard drives. Many people just made due with floppies, and a single megabyte of RAM... or less.
*That's* the old days, to me...
like the ibm ps/2 :) with the red flip up switch
@@DeathRyder33 That switch, classic. I think the first computer I had access to was a 286 clone with an amber screen and something called EGA graphics. Fond memories of those days.
Ok, we get it, you're old.
@@SomeAngryGuy1997 I like to think of it as leveled up.
@@stevedixon921 Meant that to OP, but yeah. Must be great to witness all that progress first-hand, though.
I want to thank you for your content. It's honest and very in depth. I have been a console user/owner since Nintendo. I woke up one day and wanted to get into PC's and started watching videos to learn as much as I could. After watching your content along with other skilled techs I now own my own custom PC. I have since built my two son's their own PC and my three brothers. That's being said, I say thank you again your doing a good thing.
I bought just bought a new 3.0 USB hub but I still use a computer case with drive bays and outdated hardware. When using a hub it's important not to use too long of a cable from the hub to the PC, usually 6ft max before a performance drop, especially when using external drives.
I built my first computer in well over a decade just last year. Plenty of your videos smoothed the process immensely, so thank you, Jay. I'm glad I watched this and was personally satisfied to know a lot of that stuff and that my competency returned so quickly. Thanks again for your help.
Best advice that I could give (and it aged well) is: Buy a PC case with as much as possible dust protection, which is easy to remove and clean because it not only saves you time (and sometimes broken components) while cleaning, but also helps you to see your RGB backlight (if you're in that sort of thing) instead of an RGB dust cloud.
Obviously the temperatures and noise level will also be lower in the long run.
Counterpoint to this - for over a year I've been using an open air case (XTIA Xproto), and dust hasn't been as much of an issue as expected. Somehow I find more dust on the desk next to the computer than on the computer itself. And when it is time for a clean, it's easier to do without having to work around the frame and sides of a case.
Since all the parts are fully visible, RGB is there for the world to see, no case windows required.
Temperatures are fine because the heat isn't getting trapped in a box, so there's no need for case fans. You only need the fans for your individual components.
Noise is a tricky one - since there's no soundproofing from a case, care needs to be taken to select parts that run quieter. For my build, I aimed for a PSU and GPU that can switch their fans off under low loads, and I've used an oversized CPU cooler so that it can run slow and quiet. For a while, the noisiest part was a cheap 30mm motherboard fan, but I've since hacked on a 40mm Noctua.
I'd say the main consideration (aside from aesthetics) is damage protection. I don't move my computer around much, and I don't have any kids or pets, so the risk of accidental damage is lower for me. If that risk makes you uncomfortable, then definitely look at getting a sturdy case.
@@SheaStevenson you're also forgetting risk of fire... Risk of electric shock... etc.
I must be becoming a difficult case as I seem to disagree with everybody :) I would not pay attention to dust protection if you are a DIY builder. Why? Because dust filters weaken cooling a lot and for me, it is just so much easier to open a side panel (actually I usually keep it off all the time) and clean things up sometimes. You don't have to get every speckle of dust away. Just make sure coolers and fans are not stuck with dust. Everything else is cosmetic, but mostly still easy to clean. Keeping the room where your machine is clean, also keeps the machine cleaner. I use a microfiber cloth (carefully) in outside areas of PC case and where there are no electronics close by (to avoid static electricity damage). Then pressurized air with coolers and fans. Vacuum at a low setting in areas where I know it wont suck any jumpers off of the board.
@@TechTusiast 1) "weaken cooling a lot" varies from case to case also "a lot".
2) Thermaltake core v1 and v21 has a 240mm fan in front so it overcompensates all the cooling "weakening"
3) my advice was to people who are not professionals, and also rarely clean their cases (if ever), you surely can remember memes like "my PC shuts down for some reason" and the picture tells us that it wasn't cleaned for like 20 years.
4) your way is way more time and money consuming than just put a fkin' filter and wash it once or twice a year with some water with a shower
@@qbzerodp 1) With my previous PC case I could both lower my GPU temps multiple celsius degrees and lower noise simply by removing front filter (or ditch side panel).
2) I'm not a professional nor have run any tests, but my intuition suggests that an airflow of a large, slow spinning fan is likely affected more by obstacles like a dusty filter than if you have a number of smaller, faster spinning fans with more static pressure.
3) Ok. The unfortunate thing is, filters or no filters and laymen or professionals, you just have to open the case and clean it sometimes. Sure, with filters it might be less frequently, but still. I think it's the same thing with cars, you should pop the hood every now and then even if there are no warning light blinking.
4) Maybe, I don't know. Bottled air is not that expensive and you don't need that much of it. Everyone likely and hopefully has a vacuum cleaner and some rags.
As someone about to build my first PC, thank you
Thank you for explaining the USB hub thing. I have an old laptop from around 2007, with USB 1.0. I have a 3.0 USB hard drive setup that it keeps flaking out on after about 5 to 10 minutes of steady use for data transfer. It checks out just fine on my USB 3.0 port on my PC, chkdsk does great... It's not the drive, even though the laptop keeps reading I/O errors, does the scandisk thing, and then can't even "repair" the disk when it tries. I thought it might be a RAM problem (the laptop has 16 GB and uses 8 GB while trying to do the fix), and the PC has 32 GB. Anyway, I figured it was some sort of RAM bottlenecking problem, so I increased the pagefile on the laptop, and that appeared to help a little, I think, but not by much. Anyway, at the end of the day, I decided it had to be a USB connection issue, but I couldn't quite figure out what kind of issue beyond that. You just explained it though - it's a datatransfer bottleneck problem, both for when I'm trying to use the USB 3.0 drive on the USB 1.0 port, and when the laptop's trying to use that same setup to "scan and repair" after reading an I/0 error and assuming that the drive is bad.
I think what I'll try is replacing the USB 3.0 cord with the USB 1.0 cord, unless you think that's a bad idea (the drive is HDD, 7200 RPM, 4 TB, Seagate). Does that sound like a good plan or should I try something else instead? Should I just use a smaller USB 1.0 stick (maybe 32 GB) to do smaller-sized file transfers between the PC, the USB 3.0 drive, and the laptop? Also, the laptop and the PC both have Ethernet. Should I skip all this USB nonsense and just set up a home network that way? I've already learned that Bluetooth is way too slow, at least on the PC and I assume also on the laptop (which does have it). BTW, some genius fixed this old Dell Latitude laptop up with Windows 10 and sold it to me that way used, with high end specs on it, and I'm not sure how they did that, but anyway, I got modern specks for only a couple hundred bucks, and I hope that wasn't a bad buy. I did get a 3 year warranty on it, so hopefully, it's all good. Anyway, it's not an old Windows XP or something. It's got all the modern stuff. Anyway, what do you think is the best plan for transferring large amounts of data between the PC, the USB 3.0 HDD, and the "old" new laptop with USB 1.0 ports only (that's the only part of the setup that's ol, that I can find - it even has HDMI on it, and still has a DVD drive that works nicely too!).
One thing that really got me hooked on AM4 was the Wraith Spire cooler and the stock back plate and mounting hardware.
yeah shame Intel does not have anything cool like that with their cpu's their heat sinks the ones they give you are just a joke in comparison to what AMD give's you with theirs
Or as they call it UFO. Looks nice but doesn't do a lot in terms of cooling, Phenoms had similar cooling but without the cool looking fan. But hey, when I was putting a Mugen I had to change my PC case because of it's size. Still, the wraiths can keep the temps just a little below the safe point so it's fine I guess.
As always, great advice. Another consideration is to buy a PSU which can operate in silent mode (fan off) up to around 250W-300W for office tasks. My build is inaudible during office use even in closed very quiet room.
My PSU is currently pulling 420W (I have a game in the background) and fan is not even spinning. It was costly but damn I love that thing. Asus Thor 1200W (OEM is Seasonic)
I still have an old Corsair AX750 PSU from 2013. Apart from the brief spin up when I turn the machine on I don't think I ever heard it spinning.
The USB thing was a much appreciated explanation!
I have a first hand PSU performance example comparing a Cooler Master Silent Pro 1000w (9 years old) with a 2022 model Corsair RM1000x. My computer is connected to an APC 1000VA BX1000M that can output up to 600w at 120v. This was fine with the old PSU until I upgraded from a RTX3070 to a RTX3080ti(Now RTX3090). Pairing the larger GPU with my R9-5900x under full load would trip my APC running benchmarks. Most games didn't hit that level of load, but the issue contributed to my replacing the old PSU with a new Corsair PSU. Mostly I did it for reliability reasons, but a bonus was the overall load levels dropped to under 550w at the APC(around 570w playing Armored Core 6) That's still very close to the limits of my APC, but it's an improvement over the aged and less efficient PSU.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. Last build I made was 5+ years and many things have changed a lot, although I've been out of the scene for a while this type of videos help me to stay current.
Thanks Jay, I watched you when I first got into the PC space almost 10 years ago. I'm getting back into it and I'm glad to see you're still out here as a resource for people like me to refer to.
I've been watching so many of your videos and I really love how your one of the most honest youtubers explaining all this stuff. I built my first PC in 2021 just for online university work so I basically just took whatever needed parts my father-in-law gave me at the time. Now that I work from home though on some pretty dense programs I really need an upgrade so I'm doing my research to say the least. I do care about esthetics since I am a console gamer and have my PC set up together with that. Buuuut also a parent on a budget so all this advice has been amazing. Excited to get my PC to where it needs to be for what I do and make it look good too without wasting a ton of cash in the process.
Really good to hear about in depth info on hardware like this. Gr8 channel
Great video. I think a similar video about debunking computer myths would be fun. This reminded me of how everyone used to say that shutting down your computer was bad for it and that it's better to leave it on all the time. They claimed it damaged the CPU or hard drives. Yet, most of the PCs I repaired for people were ones that were left on all the time.
@@douganderson7002 I worked in IT for 7 years professionally repairing thousands of computers.... Not quite anecdotal experience.
@@douganderson7002 the reason why most of these computers died is because of failing fans causing overheating and dust buildup from running them constantly.
@@douganderson7002 and while you are entitled to your opinion, I find it worthless.
5:26 well stock coolers in the past also weren’t garbage. The stock cooler included with the core i7 930 (the lga 1366) weighs arround 500 grams and has a copper core. It is able to cool the cpu under prime95. It also manages to keep a xeon x5675 with an overclock to 3.5GHz slightly above 80*C. But then of course it is pretty loud.
Those CPUs had a TDP of 120+ watts. Throwing them on anything of 90 or 60 watts is simply what I did, and they are waaay more than enough. I had a i7 920, and I use the same cooler I used back then on much less powerful modern cpus... at much lower temps.
@@lfla0179 Oh but how do you mount them? Aren't the mountings for newer sockets of different size? I remember requesting a special mounting kit from Noctua in order to mount a NH-D15 on a 1366 socket.
@@RacingRalphEVO I had a mastercooler 212 EVO. It had the LGA 1366 mounts, the other Intel mount (750 something?) on the same legs and the AM3 clip ACCROSS the base, dismounting the legs.
It just happens that, that SINGLE model clip was compatible with the AM4 mount, so I have it running on my Ryzen 1600x, TEN AMAZING YEARS LATER.
Just got it cleaned, new paste, found the brackets and the clip, mounted it back, and smooth sailing. They sell 212 evos on my Country to this day, for lunch money, literally. 27 dollars.
Well, I admit, it wasn't clear I was not using the Intel stock cooler, but everything is true.
I even bought another 212 EVO to my kids PC, just in case.
@@RacingRalphEVO The right name is Master Cooler Hyper 212 EVO. Quite a mouthful.
I replace them because changing from a 4 pipe included cooler to a 6 pipe cooler was always quiet. Even with a 3800X.
The stock coolers work well enough even if you overclock within reason. If you don't mind the noise.
AS for GPUs putting a larger cooler from a higher watt GPU also can work. Did not say it is easy.
It only works well if the GPU you are cooling is shorter than the donor card. You can find a lot of those coolers off dead ones. The pipes work unless there is a hole in the pipe.
Making the OEM fans from the smaller fit the larger cooler requires a bit of work. Adding a case fan on the end running off the motherboard works real well.
Because it flows through the heat pipes. You will need more than a screw driver to make it work.
I just built an Optiplex for gaming with a Haswell i5, the stock Dell cooler is whisper quiet. With 100% core use it is only 50 odd degrees C. I'm going to stick a 4690K in which has higher clocks and see how it goes then with a 400mhz hike in base clock.
I was watching when you had the triple Titan SLI.
Jay, I've been subscribed to your channel for less than 2 months, and I really appreciate you doing these types of videos!!! YES to Everything you just mentioned about who the new peps are, and why they need this content, and what for! When we have new tech that makes older things obsolete we must talk about those things... I am personally building my first PC, slowly and methodically, over the next year with lots of specifics (like already got the Hyte Y60, all Lian Li ST120 Fans, 360mm Cooler, and sticking to the 13th Gen, just to name a few). Mostly taking my time for having the money, but also pushing these parts out I've learned Gold Series 13th Gen will have some kind of good bump up, as do those motherboards, and prices go down as the newest comes out. Also, I learn more important things and particulars like mentioned in this video. Win!-Win!... Jay, you're def help me the most on TH-cam!!!
I'm one of those people returning to the PC world after spending 20ish years in the console world. I can't believe how much I love this stuff. It feels like I'm home.
I have the Corsair LL120's all over my case (8 to be exact.) They are fantastic and remain so. They are 4 years old and not a single one has malfunctioned out become exceedingly loud. Best fans IMO b/c they have hydro bearings, RGB, isolator pads. All that a gamer needs.
All great advice! Appreciated the advice around impact of ambient temperature where you live when it comes to cooling! It's a factor often overlooked by folks living in places where air conditioning is the norm, and can be a huge deal depending on where in the world you are. When I've lived in places without aircon that get to 30C/85F ambient air temperature, going overkill with air cooling at stock speeds on a high end system has been important for system stability.
Like wise, I use my PC in winter, when it's -15C, to warm up my room, while it rums World Community Grid/BOINC on the side. 😅
40° C here today 😢
Wish i knew that back then. My room ran close to 85. It was tropical in there at all times of the year. Winter was nice. Summer not so good. 😂
I'm finally building a PC and I've wanted to for a few years now. Thank you for all the great videos! Hands down my favorite channel.
I would amend the USB hub bit to the following:
There are still things that are perfectly fine, operating through a standard powered hub: most keyboards and mice, usb gaming controller, printer, scanner, and even SD card readers will work fine...but more data-intensive devices should be plugged directly into the computer (as you mentioned, webcam, video capture card, audio devices for music recording etc. , or USB3/sata drives.
Glad you mentioned the updates to PSUs. I've seen the old advice given out so many times, and it's just wrong now. A bit of overhead is always good, especially if you're going to upgrade GPUs in the future within the same setup, but you really don't need that much now, given the efficiency of nearly all PSUs these days.
A bit about the USB Hubs: The advice you give here is good in general, but I have a couple of (probably niche) caveats:
1. Peripherals like HOTAS or button boxes sometimes don't work on USB3 ports, or work better with USB2. I have a USB2 hub through which I run my Warthog HOTAS and Cougar MFDs, and a lot of flight sim enthusiasts (especially those that have built DIY cockpits) have multiple USB hubs for all the peripherals/panels/buttons. So in these sorts of circumstances, Hubs are still viable.
2. I also run multiple PCs, and got fed up with changing keyboards, so I bought a USB3.1 hub, which acts like a KVM except only for the keyboard and mouse, and 2 other peripherals. I have my keyboard, mouse, Yubikey and a flash drive on which I store my Keypass database (2FA through the Yubikey), so that I can use everything I need on both PCs. This all works fine for me, including gaming
I thought those were worth mentioning :)
On the topic of USB hubs, I firmly believe that it is better to sacrifice a little bit of your PCIe lanes for a simple internal powered USB controller. If you have a newer AMD motherboard, you likely have 24 or even 128 lanes anyway. I got one for my Oculus Rift S weeks after purchasing the HMD simply because I was running into the opposite effect mentioned by JTC: the HMD and the software weren't working properly with the USB connected directly to the motherboard. The issue turned out to be a power delivery issue, and having a port with a dedicated connection directly to the system's power supply resolved my issues entirely. In fact, Oculus made a specific choice of hub in their support forum for the exact issue I and many, many others were facing.
Jay lies Dell still uses 80plus bronze rated psu's in there low end systems🤣
how to do that ?
How many people actually use PCI Express in their PCs? Besides the GPU of course. So far I've had to use it only once to get gigabit ethernet on my father's older PC.
I have many more uses for old PCI and 16-bit ISA but I guess we can't have nice things on motherboards. I can only dream of having a Soundblaster AWE 64 Gold in my main PC.
One of the BEST "OLDSCHOOL" JayzTwoCents videos in recent years, Brother; you, sir, organically create AWESOME content when you simply speak from the heart Jay!!! ...a true "return to form" =)
do you have a video on if someone is wanting to get into true custom pc buidling? like what kind of skills would you need/ tools? like if you wanted to cut designs into cases (easiest way to go about it), how to paint cases (best methods/ paints to use on cases) , want kind of vinyls you oculd use, etc. if that makes any sense?
i haven't built a pc in 17 years, just didn't bother and been buying prebuilt but about to build a new rig and most of this advice was helpful
I appreciate a video like this because I built my first system around 20 years ago and then I built another one maybe 10 years ago... with my most recent mod/ upgrade happening this last year. I have kind of delved back into PCs a bit and have been learning a bunch. most of what you covered in this video sounded familiar to me since I've obviously been around, but I think each point had a different spin on it, that I might not have predicted because as you said every tip has been a product of things just getting better! 😃
a spinner drive gets faster if you defragment the drive an ssd gets slower if anything from the same thing true fact defragmenting dose not make an ssd faster it makes them if anything slower🤣🤣🤣
i reverted back to a system 20 years old. LOL. Apple PowerBook G4 / 1.67 Ghz. I did some upgrades to it though.
- RAM: 2GB
- Hard Disk: Upgraded to a 512GB mSATA (NVMe would be better but the IDE controller is the bottleneck)
- Backlight: CCFL (Cold Cathode Fluorescent Light) does degrade over the years, so it's been replaced
- Backlight Inverter: It seemed to be working perfectly, but i replaced the output capacitors anyways with high quality Japanese branded (yea they're not cheap) ones.
repasted the GPU & CPU. This thing will probably run for another 20 years if not longer. It was one of the last computers still actually built in America.
Back in middle school so about 8 years ago I was very into computer and coding and after getting back into the swing of things I am very happy with how farm computer tech has progressed learning the new lingo and what products have become better and which ones have died in time has been very entertaining and we’ll deserved to see
One advice: The usual setting on a mainboard BIOS usually already involves
some sort of overclocking utility, or overdrive.
When reverting the BIOS to default, check the setting for manual
speeds, and set everything to the indicated speeds, for RAM, RAM timing,
CPU and graphics card.
Now you can troubleshoot without having unwanted overclocking effects.
The advice would be: After resetting BIOS, revert to manual settings.
Basically all you need to change in BIOS since B450 is XMP and Re-bar. And maybe if you really need it check fast-boot etc.
@@pffpffovich2398 And perhaps enable virtualization. But yeah, it's so much easier and nicer nowadays.
Great video,
I have no real advice other than research your parts thoroughly and do not rush, take your time and if you need to wait.
In 2013 I build my wonderful pc lga2011 x79, and I am also one of those people looking to upgrade, ill be looking at the lga4677-x platform in the new year.
Did not realise that there were that many people building and doing the same now.
Me neither. But it seems that many people buy in the decade strategy. Myself included. Build a PC that lasts for 10 years. Exchange and upgrade some faulty parts over the years. Go for the previous to next gen tech after 10 years and you're golden. One 1000$ investment for 10 years (electricity costs not included) is a pretty solid deal for most normal people it seems.
I haven't been into this stuff in so many years so finally getting back into it has been hard. I was looking around for static pressure fans, optical bay fan controllers, USB 3.0 PCIE cards, wifi cards...etc. Nobody uses that stuff anymore lol. It's crazy.
Based on my research, you may like the EK Vardar fans - basically a PWM version of the old Gentle Typhoons.
Fan control in general is pretty much all PWM now.
Getting good interface cards for PCIx that aren't video cards can get pretty difficult in today's market. I recently tried finding an affordable dumb SCSI/SAS controller that could keep up with a fast device that wasn't a set of RAID disks. The device itself is over $2000, yet I couldn't find any interface cards that were advertised to push data through at the full multi-gigabit speed of the raw PCIx and SAS busses.
It is so nice that optical bay fan controllers have gone off and died, motherboards are much better at managing this than users ever were, and are "okay" at manual controls (not all are great, admittedly, and the software is usually miserable, but you can do a lot of the configuration at the UEFI level).
It is annoying that actually useful interface cards are being harder to find, although in a lot of ways this makes sense. Finding SATA/SAS controllers is a good example, many are 1-2 ports with a multiplier, which is a big limit if your intention is to run multiple drives in a stripe for performance reasons. Admittedly if you spend a bit more you can find some that stripe at the hardware level, but I'm not a fan of any hardware RAID unless you have redundant hardware on hand and/or are willing to lose your data if the controller fails. Software RAID gives you a lot more options without being tied to any particular card, or motherboard.
It's been a few years since I've really got into building a PC and some of this info was extremely helpful. Thanks for the update! You're really helping a fellow boomer out.
awesome advice thanks
Some good advice in this one. Thanks Jay.
A good thing I figured out recently is a software called "Fan Control" as a modern SpeedFan replacement, working with basically any hardware. Look it up on the LTT forums, a really solid piece of software. Another thing I can recommend is SignalRGB, especially good for Asus, as a much better replacement for bad rgb software.
I can vouch for Fan Control. Feels lightweight but still pretty powerful in terms of combining temperature sensors to create all kinds of custom fan curves.
Haven't tried SignalRGB, but I can alternatively recommend OpenRGB, which works with pretty much any component including keyboards and mice. Felt great to finally do away with all the different manufacturer's software and have a single program that handles everything.
@@Dan4rescue OpenRGB is nice for sure if you have compatible hardware, but due to my incompatible hardware en general lack of a good UI I prefer Signal.
never missed anything with the temp/cooler curves appliable in BIOS o.o
@@mvhdsk1122 Until you want to have a fan curve based on gpu temp, which is arguably more important than cpu. Even then you could set both and have the curve according to the one with the higher temp. Even better than in the bios, besides its much easier in Windows than having to go all the way to the bios.
@@yourick1953 Yep, and having your case fans tied to GPU temperature instead of CPU tempurature will make your system much, much quieter since the fans won't be ramping up and down when you load a simple website or something. I started using Fan Control after building my new PC a couple months ago, and love just how quiet my system is while not gaming or doing anything GPU intensive.
Great work with this video. I'm a regular at Microcenter St. David's.
The point of defragging is to make the mechanical process of extracting data from the platters faster. There is no mechanical process and no platters in an ssd so it's a waste to defrag it.
As for the USB Hubs:
I'm using Iiyama ProLite 27'' monitor and it has a built-in externally powered (through the monitor's power supply) USB C hub and it just works. I have mouse and keyboard connected to it as well as external speakers and it leaves me with 1 cable going to the PC. It also handles the display using the built-in DP, but GPUs supporting USB C are very scarce, but it works with my laptop, that's also powered through the monitor leaving this one cable as the only one connected to it.
Never had any issues with it and I even managed to connect the Kinect (for x360) as well as Kinect 2 into it, which are both known for high USB requirements (sucks up all of the power of USB 3.0) and driver issues.
I have been using a laptop for years. I recently had to get a USB hub to connect some devices I got last year because I ran out of ports. My hub goes through my keyboard passthrough which goes through a passthrough on my cooling tray before going into my laptop because I had no other way to set it up. (I tried really hard) I found that my microphone and other devices work perfectly fine, but my webcam would disconnect very easily. If I tried swapping my mouse to the hub it would also disconnect very easily. Now I'm about to build a desktop PC and I made sure to have plenty of USB ports. Between the front IO on my case and the rear IO on my motherboard I have more than enough already, but I also want to read SD cards reasonably often, so I made sure to get an extra front IO panel for that which has two additional USB ports. I'm going to be so happy to finally get to ditch my hub.
From my experience, Windows 10 doesn't defragment on an SSD, it does something different (optimize). If it shows up as an SSD in the defragment area, Windows won't defragment it (you would have to use a third party program to force the process)
Trim
you cant defrag an ssd, thats not the same function.
@@bradhaines3142 Data access speeds on SSDs doesn't really change no matter what the layout of data is since it doesn't need to seek to a specific spot on a platter. SSDs are also good for random IO, so that's also a factor.
Optimizing probably does run TRIM manually and some other stuff.
Occasionally defragging a badly fragmented SSD can be a big win. Dont do it often to preserve SSD life, of course. Look at CrystalDiskMark how sequential I/O is 100 times faster than random I/O. This is why if you select 'Optimize' on an SSD Windows will also defrag the SSD once per month if Windows thinks it needs it (badly defragmented). This is not well documented.
@@JSTheAnonymousOne solid state drives get much slower as they fill up. Remember they can't write to an individual cell, only whole row. So as the drive runs out of empty rows, it needs to copy enough data into cache to create an empty row, add new data to it, then do an erase, only then can it write the old and new data to the empty row. NAND based memory just can't write to individual cells, so that's not changing soon.
An empty SSD can write to any available row, so it doesn't have to cache and erase first. A TRIM command moves data into contiguous rows, to create as many free ones available for write ops. Even a single cell sized write will occupy a whole row, unit there are no free ones available.
I bought a seagate m.2 ssd for my first build.
I could absolutely have fallen into the trap of defragmenting my ssd if it weren't for channels like yours.
Thanks Jay and crew!
2:48 I built my new PC for the first time since 2009 and when I googled changing the stock fan was surprised to find stock is fine these days.
old video I know but the advice/opinion offered here has given this old technician a new lease on life when it comes to upgrades, I can build old tech with my eyes closed, the new tech as in 4th Gen Intel and up, might as well be Greek to me, I do not speak or read Greek at all.
Now I am looking to up my PSU in the old Dell SFF I am using (6th Gen) and I have moved to SSD.
armed with the knowledge offered here I cannot go wrong, I would love a new current PC, but I'll keep real and cheaper until I really know what I am doing.
So thank you very much from this old technician
I've been working on/with PC's since the IBM PC XT (8088) days. And, yet, I still enjoy coming in to watch Jay's videos because you CAN teach old dogs new tricks. Like his other videos, all of this is solid advice...
Except the USB Hub...as I sit here rocking an IOGear 4X4 USB Hub/Switch (think old KVMs) hooked up to three systems (one PC, 2 laptops) flawlessly running a Logitech G613 keyboard, G602 mouse, and C920 webcam. :) YMMV.
He's not saying hubs are bad, he's saying "consider this when buying a hub or troubleshooting USB devices connected to the hub."
Yup. When troubleshooting always excluse as many variables as possible. So plugging in stuff directly.
And obviously have a known good alternative to swap things around. Sometimes stuff gets weird, like one of my old keyboards that wouldn't work on one specific motherboard, but fine on all my others. while other keyboards would work on that board. Turns out that specific keyboard pulls more than the ancient PS/2 port on that specific board provides.
If you have a lot of devices or like to use the same peripherals with your laptop as you do with your PC, you'll need a hub. It used to be you could buy whatever dorky little hub was recommended by BestBuy or Amazon and it would work fine. Now you'll find that most hubs are garbage and will make devices not work. I first ran into that with a Dell laptop in 2016 and it's only gotten worse. But not _all_ hubs are garbage and if you need one, you can find one that will work.
Yep, USB Hubs aren't unequivocally bad, just gotta' be aware that they can cause issues.
I've been using quality USB Hub for attaching game controllers (arcade sticks, PS4 controllers, Rocksmith adapter cables etc.) and a USB HDD and haven't encountered any noticeable issues compared to plugging them in directly.
With regards to USB hubs, my experience was the opposite of "you might have issues". Not only did it solve some cable management headaches, it also sorted out a "takes forever to charge" issue with my headset's base station/charger. I have an Elgato Facecam connected via it as well, no problems at all. Nothing I would realistically consider connecting to a hub would require even a fraction of USB 3's bandwidth limits. It goes without saying that this doesn't mean you can buy a $5 hub from a Chinese web store and expect to load it up with external drives and have no issues... But, be realistic about what you plug into it, and make sure it's a recognizable brand name and has external power, and odds are you'll be OK.
The old "who buys cheap buys twice"
Not saying people have to get the premium, but maybe avoid the bargain bin. Buy inexpensive, not cheap.
what (powered) usb hub example u recommend / using ? can be used for hooking keyboard/mouse, external hdd, connect to display (via hdmi) and charging phone right ?
@@leguminosa9 don't charge a phone on a PC USB. Use the brick out came with. Unless your phone is a $50 generic Amazon piece of plastic, PC USB ports aren't enough to charge it at full speed it even close.
@@smoothbraindetainer Ironic how you present outdated advice on a video about outdated advice. Manufacturers have put 2A-capable USB-ports into computers for ages now, and with USB-C and USB-PD the issue of "USB standard only allows 2.5 watts" became even less.
But I'd also recommend to use a powered(!) ISB hub for devices that need power but not data. But that's only because it frees up ports on the computer for devices that need data. 4-8 onboard ports isn't that many...
@@HenryLoenwind uhh 2A 5V for charging phones is pretty outdated. I think you need to refresh your phone database