I never thought about the fact that Phil has to hold the camera above his head in order for the video to be at eye level with Jay, until I saw his reflection in his sunglasses
I'm currently laughing my ass off at the fact that Phil has to hold that camera a solid foot over his head in order to film at Jay's full height and the best part, you can see it through Jay's sunglasses. S tier camera work, well done.
This video was excellent. My gf walked in on me as I was watching this and she said, "Are you watching this to feel good about your build?" I said, YES! LOL I've always been a mid-range guy with my computers. I think that the prices have become straight robbery in a few areas. Including the mobos. Still, I have a great build. And feel so much better about the way I built my "future proof" system. Again, great video. I hope more folks watch and learn!
yup, back in the day I overspent on processors /opteron 144 and phenom x550/ but the premium for few procent extra is insane, finding a good balance with focus on purpose is the seesaw balance act, maxing out the specs is throwing money out the window, the next gen spec komponent is around the corner, for same or cheaper price
yeah, i'm always a few generations behind because there is little reason to stay up to date. the human eye cannot tell the difference between 99% of these speeds. the only reason you know the difference is there is because some program is telling you it's different.
Me to , iam never paying those prices for boards etc , i go for the mid tier and paying less and can get more later with the saved money and my fps is still good as the high tiers :)
If you are spending 3k+ on a PC you aren't concerned with value. You just want something that looks cool and you have the money to afford it. If you don't have the money to afford it then you make poor life choices anyway if you spent that on a PC.
@@doccdisrepecc7307 I only say that because you can build a PC at half that if you want value. If you are going beyond 3k you are either going all high end components that aren't a good value for money it's just more power or more style. In a 3k+ build your CPU and graphics card alone costs as much as a whole person's computer.
Honestly I don't even mind the sticker price that much, considering inflation. But not discounting the old version is just evil. Patient gamers should be rewarded, not shunned and told to buy the new hotness or gtfo.
The prices are wild .. thankfully I've had my Gamepass Ultimate subscription for a while and it includes EA's titles on both PC and console .. allowing me to play F1 23 at no extra cost
This is one of the best videos I have seen on building a gaming PC. It demonstrates how easy it is to overspend on components that do not significantly enhance the gaming experience.
@@rockyou9967And most gamers still put the case under the desk, on the floor. Where all that expensive component lighting does is somewhat illuminate the gamers own lower regions. Which for most of us are best left in the dark.
Gamers only overspent because they want more clean builds. I made my first build few months ago and i was shocked by how expensive it is to get the look you prefer. On paper everything is on budget untill the price of fans hit me hard. 250$ for 6 fans is something i was not expecting at all😂 im going to save up more for these kunai beauties.
Walmart has that Logitech wireless $50 keyboard and mouse with the built-in padding at the bottom and contouring keys for natural formation of the hands when typing
Good catch! Yet another thought, if you've got the peripherals already, then why not use the extra $1300 towards top of the line parts? For ex, a 4090 and whatever team red and team blue chip you want? Spend wisely folks!
bro I subbed to you like 12 years ago, and I haven't upgraded since. you still make the most useful videos for me now that I'm looking again. you're absolutely right in how confusing it has become not being up to date on new parts!!! thank you Jay!
My biggest tip to save money is shop for a month, buy items needed on sale, and it will save you a ton in the long run. if your planning a build, it pays to give the time to plan thru the shopping and check site sales for needed items.
Right! Buy things that don't have volatile prices as far ahead of time as practical. I picked up a new case and 3rd Gen M2 NVME when their prices bottomed out a few months ago and will wait until black Friday, etc sales for the motherboard, processor, and ram (since I'm still not sure if I'm going DDR4 or DDR5 or Intel/AMD).
@@jeremyhaugen273 personal preference, but I'm running a and 7800x and ddr5 6000mt, and I can say I have not looked back since, even planning my next build to use a 7900 non-x variant so I can set up a 24 disk jbod and make it not heat my room up and still run some vm's on it (65 watt processor) and have it for a guest gaming system as a bonus
i would never recommend that given the amount of doa parts that are coming out these days unless you are willing to risk lighting that money on fire you should be buying everything at once so you can test everything while you can still rma parts.
@@nucphyschem1 Exactly this. If you let parts sit in boxes waiting for other parts to go on sale, you're taking a pretty big gamble if something ends up DOA, especially if an item was somehow damaged during delivery and wouldn't be covered by a manufacturer's warranty.
$239 for a 2TB 970 EVO what?! Dang Micro Center ripped you off on that one. The SN850X 2TB is $140 right now... T500 2TB is $148... both are waaaaaaaay better than the 970 EVO
I have both, and yes the SN850X is better, but in reality one won't notice the difference (so true about the pricing though, $239 is nuts). What I like about the SN850X is its enormous cache layer, so it can tolerate long duration mixed/sequential writes without dropping performance (I actually bought the 4TB which has a 600GB cache layer). The 970 EVO Plus though also has excellent sustained write behaviour; not quite as good, but there is some crossover depending on the workload. There is considerable performance variance and overlap between NVMe drives based on task duration, often making definitive A>B comparisons difficult. Another model with a similar performance profile is the Adata XPG SX8200 Pro. The 970 EVO Plus has though had a very strange pricing history. For a time way back it was excellent value; as I needed more drives I bounced back and forth between it and the Adata as pricing shifted, but then something happened, grud knows what; other brands came to the fore, Adata almost vanished from the supply scene (the 1TB is still available but for some reason rarely shows up in Amazon search results) and the Samsung range began to get a lot more expensive. So now, where I am in the UK, there's this weird pricing spread where the 2TB 970 EVO Plus is currently 165 UKP on Amazon (vs. the 96 UKP I paid for the last unit I bought in Jun/2023), yet there are far more sensible models such as the 2TB Lexar NM790 Gen4 for 120 UKP, or indeed the 2TB SN850X for 140 UKP. Lesser 2TB models stubbornly refuse to dip below 100 UKP; I wonder sometimes if it's a psych thing, manufacturers & sellers don't want to encourage the entire 2TB pricing norm to go below that level in case it sucks everything else down at the same time. 4TB models have been similarly turbulent. I bought my 4TB SN850X for 220 UKP in Nov/2023, but today it's 275 UKP. At 1TB there appears to be little real competition between the mainstream brands, pricing looks absurd, with such products being only a small amount cheaper than their 2TB counterparts. It's as if the well known brands have given up that tier to the Chinese weirdo name models such as Fikwot, Fanxiang, Ediloca and Netac, though of course such models tend to be DRAMless or not so great in other ways, even if they are somewhat cheaper. For a time it looked like NVMe products were really going to surge ahead in value, capacity, or both, but instead the former has degraded in the last year or so, the latter has ground to a halt (where are the 8TB models some companies like Sandisk were promising years ago?), and performance has become ridiculously nuanced depending on the exact workload & duration, with sustained writes inparticular making some models slow to below old spinning rust speeds once their tiny cache layers become exceeded, which can happen very quickly with the cheapest models (some have very small cache layers, aswell as being DRAMless). It's become so bad that, now, for a particular workload, actual performance can vary between different NVMe products by an order of magnitude, which is crazy. Marketing is pushing cached sequential numbers as if they matter, while realworld performance and OS issues are barely changing. Back when pricing was good (late 2022), I was amazed how well the WD SN570 performed for just a general purpose system build (i5 10400, Z490), power-on to Win10 desktop in about 3 seconds, so today the SN580 replacement would likewise be fine for most tasks, but the value isn't so rosey; the 500GB SN570 I bought in Oct/2022 for 46 is now 58 for the 500GB SN580. The value of the 2TB has improved, but only a little, 130 for the SN570 I bought in Oct/2022 (for the HTPC I'm using to type this, it holds all the transcoded mp4s from dumped DVDs), now 113 for the SN580 replacement. Many will immediately cite inflation, which is probably partly true, but I'm certain it's also because the industry itself doesn't want product tiers to drop below particular levels, and atm I suspect they're having no problem selling 4TB models for current prices, so why move on? I'm glad I bought the models I wanted when I did, because the NVMe landscape now appears decidedly meh by comparison. For a while it looked like Sabrent might rock the boat with its Rocket series, but that has faded away aswell.
It's the Samsung tax. A couple of years back there was a huge word of mouth/marketing push for Samsung SSDs. People were saying Samsung was the best you can buy. That's kinda stuck around in the mind of the average PC builder. Plus they have that name recognition that most people know. That's lead to them (in my region, at least) being the more expensive SSD brand, regardless of their quality.
i like that he does on location spots and include mistakes and bloopers right in the video, it's a good way to make your content relatable to your audience.
My biggest tips to new/newer builders are; 1. Stop basing builds on what you see from people like the big-time streamers on Twitch, Kick, etc. Half the time they don't even know what they have in their PC, and when they actually do, they have that F you kind of money to just throw at any parts they want. Work within your realistic budget and I promise you that your next build will be amazing, and do whatever you want it to. 2. Like Jay mentioned briefly, if you do a little bit of research and save enough money in a few spots, you can always upgrade one or more of the parts that make the biggest difference to you, which is more than likely either bumping up the CPU, the Ram, or the GPU. I'd rather save on some of the flash and get a bigger, better GPU with all that extra money saved personally.
Lol 110% true... A few years ago Dr. Disrespect built a "gaming" pc using an AMD threadripper... lol. He is a hilarious streamer but he was clueless when building that PC.
yeah I'm currently gathering parts for a build with a r5 1600 old and a 1070ti with a b450 and I don't care as long as I can play good games on it because my trash pc before this had a i3 1011u and integrated graphics so I feel anythings better. in addition I'm not a rich spoiled person so I understand that getting the top level is not for me
@@hiddenguy67 tbh you should be able to run most games at 1080p, but you'd have to play around with settings in said games to get a solid fps. Just depends on what you're wanting to play
omg the "Why the F*** is it $70" absolutely sent me! But honestly, thank you for this video. I've seemingly become the person friends go to for tech advice and when I suggest less 'premium' parts I can point them to this instead of spending time repeating myself all the time
One other thing to consider when building a PC is planning out an upgrade schedule. I set mine up so I could upgrade on a rotation. CPU, cooler, mobo, ram at one rotation. Next time I'll do the GPU and PSU (if I need to). Hard drives and peripherals (headset, mouse, keyboard, etc.) are on an as needed basis. I don't get a new case unless things don't fit anymore... (I'm looking at you GPUs). Dividing it up like this helps me split the cost more evenly and keeps it lower when the time comes for an upgrade. For my needs and doing it this way, I can go years w/o a full upgrade but still maintain a current enough system w/o any noticeable disadvantage in usability. And it keeps my wallet happy.
To some extent but the quality between the two motherboards is night and day. A lot of that stuff he bought isn’t very appealing. I wonder how much J would save over his Audi if he bought a much cheaper brand that has similar performance.
It's a real looker AIO that's for sure, but after I bought the Rog Thor Platinum II 1000W I realized that if I went the all RoG route I wanted to, my budget was going to drain pretty quick. I remembered another video Jay did saying don't spend on bling and you can probably put what you were going to spend on bling into another tier higher GPU and he was right. Instead of spending on that Ryuo AIO I put it towards my GPU and went from a 4070 ti Super to a 4080 Super. I went with that Dominator Ram though, 64GB 6000Mhz of some sick looking fast stable ram. But also cheaped out on the Mobo with a Prime 650-Plus. So yeah, scrimp a bit here and splurge a bit there.
@@jbrone1241 The problem is low end isn't even that low anymore. I remember I bought the Maximus Hero brand new when the i7 4790k came out and it was $200. And that was over spending for a motherboard because it had red lights and an aggressive looks. Now an average level motherboard is only a few dollars away from that. If you want an ARGB header your minimum is $200, and that's without any LEDs on the motherboard.
Ok guys, this is where you are really creating valuable content. We know we'll never buy Corsair. I'm sure they produce great products but I'm on a Thermalright budget. And that's ok for me. I'm using a $160 Asus Prime Z690 motherboard, all my cooling is Thermalright ARGB fans at $4 a fan and a Thermalright Peerless Assassin CPU cooler for around $35 and it's very happily cooling a 12700K. No moving parts and it will last as long as the machine. We're now at the point that all mainstream manufacturers are producing totally comparable products because they've realized that a major recall will kill their profitability. BTW Jay, thanks for the tip regarding OpenRGB and Fan Control. I ditched Armory Crate and I feel that my machine is maybe 10% faster just from getting rid of that bloatware. Keep up the good work guys.
I can not recommend 90% of the Corsair products. They are way to expensive and they have really bad performance. Der8auer showed some tests between Corsair and other fans. They (Corsair) have the most expensive products and getting beat by 7 - 8€ P12 Artic fans (loudness and performance). I do only like the Corsair power supplies (RMx Series).
You are The Best! Thank You! Whenever, someone tells me that they are interested in computers. I just send them your latest video and tell them to follow your channel. So, 3 more people inspired to build their own PC. I just learned this over two years and found an entire community of people who built their own PCs. From one kid at 12 who built his own computer with an i3...to a gamer who built a $3000 Beast! All inspiring to me, who has just learned everything!
this is a video about spending money in top tier pc builds, I'd love to see the same for mid range and budget pc builds and i think that video will help a lot of first time pc builders
This isn't a top tier build though...i7 and top 4070 vs i9 with 4090 and nearly a world apart. This is only a top mid-range build. I've almost the exact same build but i7 13th gen.
My biggest tip I ever have when talking to people about building a pc is to watch your videos! No bullshit, no brand loving, just plain honest information!
I was recently part shopping and I was able to get a comparable system configured for about $1,500. I feel better about the parts I picked because of your video. I usually buy top tier but with the economy, I gotta pass this build. Thank you so much.
Thx for the video Jay. Great job pointing this out to people. Ive had this argument SOOOOO many times with people ive built PC's for. A 4% uplift most certainly is NOT worth another $1,500 bucks. How much does Pride cost? How much is Satisfaction worth? In alot of cases there needs to be a compromise. When you open peoples eyes to costs that are involved, 90% of them, agree afterwards. I suggested you do this a long time ago and im thrilled you did it. Thank you.
This is an awesome idea for a video. For the people that started watching your videos years ago and gained a hobby, probably not so much. But for the newer people to pc this really slams home the point that i know you have made but in case you didnt know lol
Agreed, this is the kind of video that people want to see. You can save so much money on a 4% performance difference which doesn't even factor in overclocking the cheaper pc.
How to Save Money on a new rig: 1. Case and MB should be ATX. They offer best compromises between price, heat, and future upgradability. 2. RGB. Look it looks really cool and I like it, but its expensive and useless. If you are on a budget get rid of RGB on everything. You'll save a bundle. 3. Get lower powered CPU like a i5 and AIR cool it. Keep it stock and you'll save on expensive and useless AOI. 4. Limit the number of fans. You are not overclocking and not rocking a RTX4090. 2 is the minimum enough (add more depending on the case). 5. Don't spend more than $800 on a GPU. The difference between a 4700ti and a 4800ti isnt worth $400 if you are counting pennies. You arent going to play in 4K, so a 4070ti is enough. Use the cheaper brands Zotac, PNY, etc. 6. ...and because you are not going to play in 4K, don't get a 4K monitor. You can get a OLED 27" for roughly the same price or some of the cheaper 34" from MSI. The AW3423DWF can bet got on sale if you can spend a tiny bit more. 7. Case - Get a Budget case from a GOOD company. Don't be tempted by the fake premium Chinese Knockoffs. There are plenty at the $100 mark. Get it ATX size. 8. DON'T - SKIMP ON THE PSU. Get a good quality PSU from a good company. Corsair sells the CX750 for $70. 750W is minimum and I would get more up to 1000W for future upgradeability. Avoid Chinese knockoff like the plague as their poor quality can be dangerous.
I probably would have saved $15 on my build without the RGB. You can get a thermalright air cooler for $30, basically as good as a $110 Noctua Nh14. You can get a thermalright 360 AIO for $60. These aren't the best on the market, but they will perform nearly as well. What monitor you should get depends on what you are doing. I got a 4k monitor for work for $200. Obviously not a gaming monitor, but still. OLEDs are crazy expensive. I bought a phanteks case on sale for $35. It looks nice, but it's a bit of a pita, because it's so small. In what world is $100 a budget case? Any name brand PSU is good enough. Get a decent one, but don't waste money. 750W is not minimum. You don't need a 1000 Watt PSU for upgrades...
Yeah, I was close to building an SSD server when 4TB enterprise drives were like $200. I thought that was pretty good but figured I'd wait as they should go down even more. Big mistake that was. Now they're 1.75-2.0X the price. I'll have to wait for the next favorable supply/demand cycle.
It's wild to me, I'm seeing Kingston KC3000 2Tb for 220 Euro and the Renegade for 240 in stock at multiple stores. And that SSD is really fast and durable.
Don't buy Samsung Evo... They did a great job getting people to think they are name brand but it is like Nike, or McDonalds. They are providing often times their B or even C stock chips for their own products Heck some of there drives even use D tier chips. The same quality you can the cheapest drives... Samsung has also had major drive issue in the past including Write locking drives errors. No other SSD manufacture has had these kinds of write issues with their drives. Team Group literally only uses A or B tier chips from Samsung or micron and they are about half to sometimes a quarter of the price. FYI A tier means small chip defects of say less than something like 1 - 5 %, B is like 5-10% defects in dye, C is like up 10-20%, and lastly D tier uses like 20% - 40 or 60% of the chip is defective. FYI This is also why most Samsung drives have so many chips VS other Nvme drives of the same quality. Most people think it is because they are using say SLC VS QLC... Nope they just need more chips since their chips can upto 60% of it as no functional. Now I may have my percentages off, but D tier is know to have the most defects but still be anywhere from 40-60% functional in the Dye making business. This is also why some CPU, GPU's, Used the same exact Dyes but have less cores... The defective cores are segregated then it is sold as a cheaper cut down version.
I seriously appreciate this video. I'm still learning about PC building so it's amazing that you're doing direct comparisons. Really love this channel, I've learned a lot
I don't get that one either. I was just in a microcenter the other day and both the 980 pros and 990s were in the 170-180 range. The wd 850x 2tb were just under 150. He had to go out of his way to spend that much on a 970 evo.
I got my 2TB 970 Evo Plus for 115.90€ in October last year. Now the cheapest one is 193€ or 225.90€ in the store I bought mine from. SSD prices have went up a lot in the last 6 months, thankfully there was news about that so I bought all the SSDs I needed before there was big price increases
Going to be building my wife a PC soon, this was very helpful to me. Your channel is constantly pumping out some of the greatest PC content on youtube, and you all deserve the best. Thanks for this video.
I pretty much pull all the items from the "budget" side and will soon be building a new PC. My current pc is almost 9years old with the only upgrade I did was ram and gpu. Thank you Jay and team for this.
I think a cool video would be to revisit this, but min-max'ing the $3500 build to see how much performance you can get when you don't go for $600 motherboard, etc.
I just bought a new Ryzen 5 build a couple of hours ago. Going from 16GB DDR3 to 32GB DDR5 6000mhz. All up It cost me $1,300, with another $100 spent on shipping and insurance. Gonna love the new build!
I feel like the mobo industry is a response from a few years back where boards at the low end were so anemic VRM wise it was a problem, now we are seeing the pendulum swing in the opposite extreme lol. Overbuilt, extra features, size even...
And yet, despite that, they can't give us a 7-segment display for code readouts on a moderately priced motherboard. Gotta typically spend a minimum of $350 for a board that has it or wait for a sale and possibly get one around the $300 mark.
Its literally all coming from the fact that he chose absolutely awful ram (micron die) on the cheaper one when he should've gotten good 32gb which would've been cheaper and left almost no measurable performance difference
@@johnt.848 I just spent 2175,08€ for some fixes and maintenance in my car, I don't even want to know how much I will throw at it when I start with the serious performance modifications.
Jay thank you so much for showing this important information. People do tend to go overboard with parts. This video shows you can save yourself cash with similar performance. Keep these videos coming. Appreciate you helping people.
@@chrish1850 Yeah .. brand spankin new. I was dumb enough to install it and hook it all up before testing because with the "Tier A" Cultists status I thought I was safe .. lesson learned I guess.
@@Craplatte Ironically the Thor is a Seasonic :) Though you could buy an actual Seasonic for a ton less money than the Thor and also get Seasonic service which is, on last count, 3941 times better than Asus service.
the only upside you get for getting more expensive parts that don't need to be, is that you might end up save some in the future, but by the time you'll have to upgrade it, other better valued and performing components will be out and you will want to upgrade those regardless.
My Apple II+, 64Kb, ONE disk drive, parallel, dot matrix, green screen cost $3500 in 1982. A few months before the IIe came out cheaper. My dad called it "god damned $3000 typewriter."
@@AlphaPapaWW I miss being a rich kid like that. Actually, I never had a $3500 computer. But I did have two $2500 rigs at one point in 1994 (Amiga 4000 and Pentium). So maybe adjusted for inflation that might be close to that.
10:16 Yes, in fact I am building my computer right now and even with spending a bit on aesthetics, I was able to buy a 7800x3d and a 7900 gre and the total is looking to be 1300 to 1350 and I even accidentally overspent at many parts (All new parts btw)
Still enjoy the i fix it ads… go around the house, “i fix it!!!!” Clean the vacuum out, “i fix it!!!”, roll the water hose up “i fix it!!!” You can guess the rest haha
@@trumplander420 Used server memory? Nice find, but it's completely irrelevant for 99.99% of the people reading these comments. To start, DDR4 2133 MHz is relatively slow, and the fact that it's ECC memory further reduces its performance. Additionally, only a handful of consumer DDR4 motherboards and CPUs even support ECC.
As a swede, I have to be that guy that points out how American it is to have to bring your truck to make sure you have room for everything. Don't get me wrong - I have a Ram 1500 as an enthusiast vehicle, but my daily driver being a Saab 9-5 SC, being able to fit all that and have room left - I couldn't resist 😂
Whenever I build a computer. I ask myself several questions. 1. What is my use case? Examples; gaming, creative (video editing, audio, art), emulation (other operating systems via virtualization), retro gaming. Server use is a different category and require more durable (usually expensive) parts. 2. How often do I plan to upgrade? 3. What expansion options are needed? Internal an external devices 4. What is my initial storage requirement? That answer is usually based on question 1. 5. If there's plans for future upgrades, what is my initial budget? If no plans to upgrade, what is my overall budget? 6. How big of a power supply will I need for my build? Keep in mind that extra peripherals that doesn't have its own power has to factor into your power supply needs. *7. This is personal for me.. Do I need to upgrade to a higher capacity UPS for my new build? The UPS question is because I don't use surge protectors for any of my computers. I lost a server due to a really bad power surge caused by a major outage. It was connected to a surge protector with a $50,000 equipment guarantee at the time. I tried to file a claim with both pictures and receipts; only for it to be rejected. That was a painful and expensive experience. Going after them legally would have netted me a bigger loss due to the legal fees. I swore off connecting computers to a surge protector since. I've had power surges since that incident and I never lost any equipment when connected to a UPS.
I built a PC today, including monitor - for $987 tax included that will walk all over both of these. For the record not hating on this channel, I’ve learned so much for them. Just making this comment for newcomers thinking they need to drop multiple stacks to have a decent rig.
Being able to quantify the price to performance is the difference between throwing parts together randomly and building with intent. knowing the difference in price and performance between differ parts is key to knowing what you are paying for. also knowing the difference in price between the next step up in performance will also help as well.
This right here! Unless you have wads of cash burning a hole in your pocket, it's best to look at cost vs performance and aim to get as close to that sweet spot as you can afford. Also, factor in your projected workload and adjust where on that curve for each part will really give the best bang for the buck.
What sucks the most is that they were both so cheap only 5-6 months ago. It took such a short amount of time for them to both become so expensive again.
Out of all the years I've been building pc's for people this is probably the most informative video every new pc owner should watch. Edit: that 3600$ pc should have a 4090
biggest tip is to figure out what you want your PC to do. then see what you will need to buy for it to do what you need it to do, and then price within your budget. save on the power supply to get a better webcam to stream or skip the web cam and use your cell and get a stream deck, get or skip RGB etc. BONUS TIP- always check recent build vids to compare realistic price/performance expectations.
Perfect tip, PC is a tool, you need to know what you want to do with it. Too many people that want to buy a 2000$ PC to play 1080p Valorant or Fortnite... ffs
I am currently building a new PC. Already got the GPU and now I must decide which parts. This video helped me a lot to not spend too much on unnecessary parts. Thanks a lot 👌
I never thought about the fact that Phil has to hold the camera above his head in order for the video to be at eye level with Jay, until I saw his reflection in his sunglasses. I'm currently laughing my ass off at the fact that Phil has to hold that camera a solid foot over his head in order to film at Jay's full height and the best part, you can see it through Jay's sunglasses. S tier camera work, well done. Give Phil a raise, man has to hold the camera over his head like he's getting something off the top shelf to be at Jay's eye level.
@@josephoverstreet5584 is it still $99? No, but it is still significantly cheaper than that drive. It’s also not irrelevant in a conversation about the price of your PC hardware to point out how the price of certain hardware has been inflated to gross levels. I’m pretty sure the same drive Jay bought was sub $100 not that long ago.
Great video! I appreciate not only the wise advice on gauging value, but also the trade offs between component spec and performance potential. What’s crazy is you can take it a step further for a budget Microcenter build and end up with a comparable, or even better performing machine. Here’s my recent build: Powerspec B940 - on sale, $900 I9 13900k MSI z690A 32gb DDR5 6000 240L Liquid ML RGB cooler 2TB NVME Seasonic USA Focus V3 1000watt PSU Lian Li ATX case Gigabyte 4070 Ti Super Gaming - $829 on sale Grand total = $1729, ~$2150 without sale price
Fucking not even the most pricey dude, not even by fuckin half! >imagine honest to god paying $1200 for a board >it's not even a threadripper Actually I looked at these boards too they're shit. They're basically just not even that overbuilt, they don't got the fuckin SATA ports and the stupid fuckers are lacking PCIe expansion, it's all geared toward NVMe drives. Like 5+ NVMe. Idk I think PCIe lanes on NVMe is a waste of gosh damn space frankly I ain't fuckin doin it, nope solid hard nope Imma keep me SSDs and HDDs dude. I got 9tb of storage, only 1.5 of that is NVMe. I only need the like one boot drive on NVMe anyway and maybe an editing rig swap drive that's it. You can't even use the stupid things in an enclosure. I personally think NVMe will become a less popular standard over time, that it'll be so niche like mSATA and FireWire. I got multiple ways to use FireWire, I also have a mSATA drive I really like on me laptop. I have eSATA on this laptop. That's how I feel about NVME until they use something better than USB C or Thunderbird for enclosures, it's got basically SSD speed at that point only difference is, I can fit 6x1tb SSD drives on that, inlcuding me nice looking Delta Max ARGB SSD. They look fantastic I might add. OR, I get....one single NVMe drive to take away 4 SATA ports. This just reminds me of the stupid things in the past where you ended up disabling USB and SSD ports for stupid things a decade ago. In other words the 1200$ board has less optionality to me than a regular $300 board. You're basically paying for LCD screens.
The best advice i could give anyone looking to get into building a rig is to not buy into brand loyalty, find the games and resolution you want to play at and figure out what GPU/CPU combo works for your budget. Ignore the fanboys on every single team, use what you want and purchase what makes sense for your build.
The 4080-SUPER is easily only $220 more, but with 25% differences in performance. Should have used Gen4 nvme and faster ram but 32gigs. Gaming ram is better with tighter latency. But ya that motherboard is really unnecessary
Easy way to save money on a PC. Build it yourself. (it is not that hard) Companys charge money for putting your PC together so you can save that money too. All the parts are what you want so no need to replace anything.
Building me PC was one of the best things I ever did in life. That's including quitting smoking cigarettes. It wasn't just that wise--it was that enjoyable to me. I adore tinkering.
Love your videos and I have been watching since the 2080Ti SLI vid. Always putting out amazing content that hits more common topics and gives real world advice. Keep up the great work!
I bought a i7-12700K bundle from Microcenter 2 weeks ago came with a MSI generic board for $329 with 16gb ram. I'm no longer making these $2000 machines. Such a waste of money. I'm buying a 1-2 year old technology at a discount. I put in a 4060 video card and additional 16 gb of of DDR 4 and it fly's. I benchmark UFO across the board on userbench. Also top 10% in passmark. Just like golf, not buying that driver for $600, I'll wait a year or 2 and get for $200. Whatever you buy today will be discounted in a year. New pc build was a $1000.
Hi there, Old newbie here. Thank you for this video. It reminds me of this: Years ago (and perhaps again now) there was a battle regarding audio equipment, also about the needles and elements used in pick-ups. Differences could only be measured but could no longer be heard. Back then you could also make huge savings by not letting things drive you crazy. I am planning to build my first gaming pc and I just want a good experience playing games. I find Jay's videos very helpfull in my quest. I am looking for a similar video about monitors and sound.
Yes, I went overboard with my current build, which I finished January, 2023. I have just under $6,000.00 invested. And that does not include custom liquid cooling. I just used a Corsair AIO. However, I now have 128GB of G.Skill Trident Z5 6400MZ RGB RAM. I also used 3, 1TB Samsung 980Pro M.2 NVMe SSD drives. One for OS and programs, one for files and the third for a whole system backup. I'm using the Gigabyte AORUS Master Z690 motherboard, the Intel i9-13900k CPU and the Gigabyte AORUS RTX-3090 Xtreme graphics card. I top it off with the Acer Predator X38 monitor and replaced all case fans with the Corsair Magnetic levitation RGB fans. My case is a full tower E-ATX Segotep Phoenix T-1. When you add in an outboard DVD burner, Logitech THX certified speakers, printer, keyboard and mouse, I have built a monster here. I almost forgot about the power supply. It is the Seasonic Prime Ultra Platinum 1,300watt unit.
In a nutshell, there is no reason to spend more money on top products when an above average product will do extremely well while saving you a lot or money. It's time to take that into consideration when I decide to put a new PC in a few months. Love the channel, followed and subbed for future content.
The biggest thing I've learned over the years is to never skimp on the power supply. Always go for the Gold, Platinum, or Titanium-rated models and give yourself a wattage overhead of around 20% over what your hardware needs (for instance, these builds could probably run comfortably on a 800 to 850-watt PSU but running on a 1000-watt PSU will improve wall power efficiency under load and run cooler). Go ahead and spend a little more on the models with modular or semi-modular designs, too - you'll be glad you did when it comes to cable management.
I always thought that a 50% overhead was preferential so a 400w system would require 600w to 650w PSU and a 500w system would need a 750w PSU etc this reasoning allows for extra fans and drives etc as the case evolves without running into issues.
I'm glad you posted this; will help a lot of people. Personally and fortunately I managed to save 1470 USD by avoiding high-end over expensive Asus parts for my newest build even before this video. I was battling the Asus fan boy inside of me and went full gigabyte, and boy I'm glad I did that and saved a lot of money 💰.
My advice is to do what I did: buy your parts during a really good sale on New Egg. I saved close to $400 and was able to upgrade my SSD, GPU, and motherboard as well.
At 7:53 Samsung storage drive.... He's running a Gen 3 drive, The 980, a Gen 4 drive, you can get it for like $169 bucks on PC parts picker....2GB as well. Probably a much better drive than a gen 3....so save some money get a newer and faster drive at the same time!!
I remember being a kid trying to cost-cut anywhere possible, price shopping all the major websites, mail-in rebates, and sometimes it helped working at OfficeMax, we’d find out about sale and clearances items before anyone else.
for any first time builders build the system for what you need it to do and what features you need RGB is a hell of a drug but it is not necessary for a case where you cant see it also the more you spend the more cables you have to manage
I am shocked and blown away how the more expensive PC only out performed the less expensive PC by only a little bit. This video is a valuable demonstrating how to save money and what parts to spend the money on.
Bottom line is a relative medium build when compared to the highest spec of the same generation is only going to be at best 25% below the top spec but the top spec system could be another $2k or more in price, are you really going to notice the difference between 150 fps to 200 fps when gaming, Heavy workload though when using Photoshop, AI or whatever may be a different story but the medium spec PC will still get the job done just slower.
My best saving tip is to buy on sale, when newer models have arrived. Black Friday and similar. Sometimes "demo" products might be worth it. Second is to think about what the PC are to do, and for how long, what components and functions do you really need. Look up tests and reviews, does the price difference match the performance one (in % ) .
15:48 - Typically with more expensive motherboards (with similar I/O, etc), from what I’ve seen lately, the most useful spec is more power available to the CPU. So, overclocking is theoretically going to be more stable and potentially better for the CPU than the cheaper boards… IF you’re going to OC. You still won’t see a Cost::Performance match. But they’re made for enthusiasts who like to tinker. Same thing happens in any market; cars, Audio, Video, etc. Great video, though. Keep up the great work!
I never thought about the fact that Phil has to hold the camera above his head in order for the video to be at eye level with Jay, until I saw his reflection in his sunglasses
I was dying
I feel his pain, short dude problems 😂
@@gasracing5000 I understand your pain, tall guy with short friends.
He's got to have shoulders and back of steel by this point
...can we get him a boom handle with a shoulder support for his camera? I have seen those.
I'm currently laughing my ass off at the fact that Phil has to hold that camera a solid foot over his head in order to film at Jay's full height and the best part, you can see it through Jay's sunglasses. S tier camera work, well done.
same! hahahaha thats the first one i noticed.
Maybe Phil should have a gimbal or something.
@@stormgear896 Phil is the gimbal 🤪
LMAO ... I paused the video just to come down to the comments and say the same thing only to see so many others beat me to it Hahaha Love it
Jay is 8 feet tall
This video was excellent. My gf walked in on me as I was watching this and she said, "Are you watching this to feel good about your build?" I said, YES! LOL
I've always been a mid-range guy with my computers. I think that the prices have become straight robbery in a few areas. Including the mobos. Still, I have a great build. And feel so much better about the way I built my "future proof" system. Again, great video. I hope more folks watch and learn!
hi can i ask whats your build? i also wanna make a future build as much as possible cause i dont upgrade frequently
yup, back in the day I overspent on processors /opteron 144 and phenom x550/ but the premium for few procent extra is insane, finding a good balance with focus on purpose is the seesaw balance act, maxing out the specs is throwing money out the window, the next gen spec komponent is around the corner, for same or cheaper price
Whats the buiiiiild man dont do me like that
yeah, i'm always a few generations behind because there is little reason to stay up to date. the human eye cannot tell the difference between 99% of these speeds. the only reason you know the difference is there is because some program is telling you it's different.
Me to , iam never paying those prices for boards etc , i go for the mid tier and paying less and can get more later with the saved money and my fps is still good as the high tiers :)
This is exactly the kind of content that Tubers should be pushing. So many systems out there with terrible VALUE. Kudos Jay, wishing you the best.
Now I'm picturing Jay as a potato
This guy gardens….
If you are spending 3k+ on a PC you aren't concerned with value. You just want something that looks cool and you have the money to afford it. If you don't have the money to afford it then you make poor life choices anyway if you spent that on a PC.
@trsskater 3k isn't so outlandish that value isn't a factor. A 10k system, sure, but this is all off the shelf parts here.
@@doccdisrepecc7307 I only say that because you can build a PC at half that if you want value. If you are going beyond 3k you are either going all high end components that aren't a good value for money it's just more power or more style. In a 3k+ build your CPU and graphics card alone costs as much as a whole person's computer.
Thank you for leaving the F bomb in when talking about game prices. It is well deserved.
Honestly I don't even mind the sticker price that much, considering inflation. But not discounting the old version is just evil. Patient gamers should be rewarded, not shunned and told to buy the new hotness or gtfo.
Shh... don't tell Jay that games started having 180$ and 250$ price tags. His mind and heart would blue-screen.
Yesssss I was like shittttt $$😂😂
The prices are wild .. thankfully I've had my Gamepass Ultimate subscription for a while and it includes EA's titles on both PC and console .. allowing me to play F1 23 at no extra cost
I called my wife in the room and she was shocked too. I used to love JTC. Oh my virgin ears. (sarcasm)
This is one of the best videos I have seen on building a gaming PC. It demonstrates how easy it is to overspend on components that do not significantly enhance the gaming experience.
quite honestly i think most builders buy the more expensive parts for their appearance and not because they think it will perform better
@@rockyou9967 Thank you first person to think straight
@@rockyou9967And most gamers still put the case under the desk, on the floor. Where all that expensive component lighting does is somewhat illuminate the gamers own lower regions. Which for most of us are best left in the dark.
Gamers only overspent because they want more clean builds. I made my first build few months ago and i was shocked by how expensive it is to get the look you prefer. On paper everything is on budget untill the price of fans hit me hard. 250$ for 6 fans is something i was not expecting at all😂 im going to save up more for these kunai beauties.
Give Phil a raise, man has to hold the camera over his head like he's getting something off the top shelf to be at Jay's eye level.
is "give Phil a raise" an intentional joke or you just didn't notice??
Lol... Phil needs a "Raise" alright! 🤣
Or a stool
Haha😂
Nick gets a new job role, raise Phil
Another thought, that extra 1300 could be used for peripherals, good monitor, keyboard, mouse, and more!
Good thinking, right there
Walmart has that Logitech wireless $50 keyboard and mouse with the built-in padding at the bottom and contouring keys for natural formation of the hands when typing
Or a 4090 at that point
Good catch! Yet another thought, if you've got the peripherals already, then why not use the extra $1300 towards top of the line parts? For ex, a 4090 and whatever team red and team blue chip you want? Spend wisely folks!
could be used to get a better gpu too.
bro I subbed to you like 12 years ago, and I haven't upgraded since. you still make the most useful videos for me now that I'm looking again. you're absolutely right in how confusing it has become not being up to date on new parts!!! thank you Jay!
My biggest tip to save money is shop for a month, buy items needed on sale, and it will save you a ton in the long run. if your planning a build, it pays to give the time to plan thru the shopping and check site sales for needed items.
Facts, it's mostly about patients
Right! Buy things that don't have volatile prices as far ahead of time as practical. I picked up a new case and 3rd Gen M2 NVME when their prices bottomed out a few months ago and will wait until black Friday, etc sales for the motherboard, processor, and ram (since I'm still not sure if I'm going DDR4 or DDR5 or Intel/AMD).
@@jeremyhaugen273 personal preference, but I'm running a and 7800x and ddr5 6000mt, and I can say I have not looked back since, even planning my next build to use a 7900 non-x variant so I can set up a 24 disk jbod and make it not heat my room up and still run some vm's on it (65 watt processor) and have it for a guest gaming system as a bonus
i would never recommend that given the amount of doa parts that are coming out these days unless you are willing to risk lighting that money on fire you should be buying everything at once so you can test everything while you can still rma parts.
@@nucphyschem1 Exactly this. If you let parts sit in boxes waiting for other parts to go on sale, you're taking a pretty big gamble if something ends up DOA, especially if an item was somehow damaged during delivery and wouldn't be covered by a manufacturer's warranty.
$239 for a 2TB 970 EVO what?! Dang Micro Center ripped you off on that one. The SN850X 2TB is $140 right now... T500 2TB is $148... both are waaaaaaaay better than the 970 EVO
I have both, and yes the SN850X is better, but in reality one won't notice the difference (so true about the pricing though, $239 is nuts). What I like about the SN850X is its enormous cache layer, so it can tolerate long duration mixed/sequential writes without dropping performance (I actually bought the 4TB which has a 600GB cache layer). The 970 EVO Plus though also has excellent sustained write behaviour; not quite as good, but there is some crossover depending on the workload. There is considerable performance variance and overlap between NVMe drives based on task duration, often making definitive A>B comparisons difficult. Another model with a similar performance profile is the Adata XPG SX8200 Pro.
The 970 EVO Plus has though had a very strange pricing history. For a time way back it was excellent value; as I needed more drives I bounced back and forth between it and the Adata as pricing shifted, but then something happened, grud knows what; other brands came to the fore, Adata almost vanished from the supply scene (the 1TB is still available but for some reason rarely shows up in Amazon search results) and the Samsung range began to get a lot more expensive.
So now, where I am in the UK, there's this weird pricing spread where the 2TB 970 EVO Plus is currently 165 UKP on Amazon (vs. the 96 UKP I paid for the last unit I bought in Jun/2023), yet there are far more sensible models such as the 2TB Lexar NM790 Gen4 for 120 UKP, or indeed the 2TB SN850X for 140 UKP. Lesser 2TB models stubbornly refuse to dip below 100 UKP; I wonder sometimes if it's a psych thing, manufacturers & sellers don't want to encourage the entire 2TB pricing norm to go below that level in case it sucks everything else down at the same time.
4TB models have been similarly turbulent. I bought my 4TB SN850X for 220 UKP in Nov/2023, but today it's 275 UKP.
At 1TB there appears to be little real competition between the mainstream brands, pricing looks absurd, with such products being only a small amount cheaper than their 2TB counterparts. It's as if the well known brands have given up that tier to the Chinese weirdo name models such as Fikwot, Fanxiang, Ediloca and Netac, though of course such models tend to be DRAMless or not so great in other ways, even if they are somewhat cheaper.
For a time it looked like NVMe products were really going to surge ahead in value, capacity, or both, but instead the former has degraded in the last year or so, the latter has ground to a halt (where are the 8TB models some companies like Sandisk were promising years ago?), and performance has become ridiculously nuanced depending on the exact workload & duration, with sustained writes inparticular making some models slow to below old spinning rust speeds once their tiny cache layers become exceeded, which can happen very quickly with the cheapest models (some have very small cache layers, aswell as being DRAMless).
It's become so bad that, now, for a particular workload, actual performance can vary between different NVMe products by an order of magnitude, which is crazy. Marketing is pushing cached sequential numbers as if they matter, while realworld performance and OS issues are barely changing. Back when pricing was good (late 2022), I was amazed how well the WD SN570 performed for just a general purpose system build (i5 10400, Z490), power-on to Win10 desktop in about 3 seconds, so today the SN580 replacement would likewise be fine for most tasks, but the value isn't so rosey; the 500GB SN570 I bought in Oct/2022 for 46 is now 58 for the 500GB SN580. The value of the 2TB has improved, but only a little, 130 for the SN570 I bought in Oct/2022 (for the HTPC I'm using to type this, it holds all the transcoded mp4s from dumped DVDs), now 113 for the SN580 replacement.
Many will immediately cite inflation, which is probably partly true, but I'm certain it's also because the industry itself doesn't want product tiers to drop below particular levels, and atm I suspect they're having no problem selling 4TB models for current prices, so why move on?
I'm glad I bought the models I wanted when I did, because the NVMe landscape now appears decidedly meh by comparison. For a while it looked like Sabrent might rock the boat with its Rocket series, but that has faded away aswell.
It's the Samsung tax. A couple of years back there was a huge word of mouth/marketing push for Samsung SSDs. People were saying Samsung was the best you can buy. That's kinda stuck around in the mind of the average PC builder. Plus they have that name recognition that most people know. That's lead to them (in my region, at least) being the more expensive SSD brand, regardless of their quality.
Hell, even the 990 Pro 2TB is only $185-190 at AMZN/BBY; cheaper and better. Guess it's the convenience tax of physical retail coming into play.
He says its sponsored by them at the start so it really doesn't matter to him.
Seriously when every where else is averaging it at $150
i like that he does on location spots and include mistakes and bloopers right in the video, it's a good way to make your content relatable to your audience.
My biggest tips to new/newer builders are; 1. Stop basing builds on what you see from people like the big-time streamers on Twitch, Kick, etc. Half the time they don't even know what they have in their PC, and when they actually do, they have that F you kind of money to just throw at any parts they want. Work within your realistic budget and I promise you that your next build will be amazing, and do whatever you want it to.
2. Like Jay mentioned briefly, if you do a little bit of research and save enough money in a few spots, you can always upgrade one or more of the parts that make the biggest difference to you, which is more than likely either bumping up the CPU, the Ram, or the GPU. I'd rather save on some of the flash and get a bigger, better GPU with all that extra money saved personally.
Lol 110% true... A few years ago Dr. Disrespect built a "gaming" pc using an AMD threadripper... lol. He is a hilarious streamer but he was clueless when building that PC.
Exactly. In this comparison we could even get a 4090 and better RAM for the same price and practically get %50 more gaming performance at 4K.
yeah I'm currently gathering parts for a build with a r5 1600 old and a 1070ti with a b450 and I don't care as long as I can play good games on it because my trash pc before this had a i3 1011u and integrated graphics so I feel anythings better. in addition I'm not a rich spoiled person so I understand that getting the top level is not for me
can any of you give guidance of what this could run btw, I just wanna play pc games in general and maybe video editing casually.
thanks
@@hiddenguy67 tbh you should be able to run most games at 1080p, but you'd have to play around with settings in said games to get a solid fps. Just depends on what you're wanting to play
omg the "Why the F*** is it $70" absolutely sent me! But honestly, thank you for this video. I've seemingly become the person friends go to for tech advice and when I suggest less 'premium' parts I can point them to this instead of spending time repeating myself all the time
I love hearing Jay swear. He's such a calm and collect person so you know when he swears, it's hitting home
This was the day I met y’all at Mircocenter. It was a pleasure to meet y’all.
The ifixit special message is honestly such a hit for me, it’s just unskippable with how much it makes me smile every time.
Such a classic. The acting to the voice, everything is perfect
It never gets old. It's the only ad worth watching.
Ifixit is one of very few products I’ve ever bought because of an ad baked into someone’s TH-cam video.
Not big on this channel but that's one of the only ads I don't skip
One other thing to consider when building a PC is planning out an upgrade schedule. I set mine up so I could upgrade on a rotation. CPU, cooler, mobo, ram at one rotation. Next time I'll do the GPU and PSU (if I need to). Hard drives and peripherals (headset, mouse, keyboard, etc.) are on an as needed basis. I don't get a new case unless things don't fit anymore... (I'm looking at you GPUs). Dividing it up like this helps me split the cost more evenly and keeps it lower when the time comes for an upgrade.
For my needs and doing it this way, I can go years w/o a full upgrade but still maintain a current enough system w/o any noticeable disadvantage in usability. And it keeps my wallet happy.
Same here, have my same LianLi case from 15 years ago but changing it only due to moving all my family's builds into my home lab server rack.
That ROG tax is real.
To some extent but the quality between the two motherboards is night and day. A lot of that stuff he bought isn’t very appealing. I wonder how much J would save over his Audi if he bought a much cheaper brand that has similar performance.
Real Overpriced Garbage
Never mind the strix bonus tax on top
It's a real looker AIO that's for sure, but after I bought the Rog Thor Platinum II 1000W I realized that if I went the all RoG route I wanted to, my budget was going to drain pretty quick. I remembered another video Jay did saying don't spend on bling and you can probably put what you were going to spend on bling into another tier higher GPU and he was right. Instead of spending on that Ryuo AIO I put it towards my GPU and went from a 4070 ti Super to a 4080 Super. I went with that Dominator Ram though, 64GB 6000Mhz of some sick looking fast stable ram. But also cheaped out on the Mobo with a Prime 650-Plus. So yeah, scrimp a bit here and splurge a bit there.
@@jbrone1241 The problem is low end isn't even that low anymore. I remember I bought the Maximus Hero brand new when the i7 4790k came out and it was $200. And that was over spending for a motherboard because it had red lights and an aggressive looks. Now an average level motherboard is only a few dollars away from that. If you want an ARGB header your minimum is $200, and that's without any LEDs on the motherboard.
Ok guys, this is where you are really creating valuable content. We know we'll never buy Corsair. I'm sure they produce great products but I'm on a Thermalright budget. And that's ok for me. I'm using a $160 Asus Prime Z690 motherboard, all my cooling is Thermalright ARGB fans at $4 a fan and a Thermalright Peerless Assassin CPU cooler for around $35 and it's very happily cooling a 12700K. No moving parts and it will last as long as the machine. We're now at the point that all mainstream manufacturers are producing totally comparable products because they've realized that a major recall will kill their profitability. BTW Jay, thanks for the tip regarding OpenRGB and Fan Control. I ditched Armory Crate and I feel that my machine is maybe 10% faster just from getting rid of that bloatware. Keep up the good work guys.
I don't recommend getting cheap Asus, better get "premium" Gigabyte
@@vadnegru Don't get Asus overall.
@@vadnegru or even better, Asrock
No moving parts? What about the fans?
I can not recommend 90% of the Corsair products. They are way to expensive and they have really bad performance. Der8auer showed some tests between Corsair and other fans. They (Corsair) have the most expensive products and getting beat by 7 - 8€ P12 Artic fans (loudness and performance). I do only like the Corsair power supplies (RMx Series).
You are The Best! Thank You! Whenever, someone tells me that they are interested in computers. I just send them your latest video and tell them to follow your channel. So, 3 more people inspired to build their own PC. I just learned this over two years and found an entire community of people who built their own PCs. From one kid at 12 who built his own computer with an i3...to a gamer who built a $3000 Beast! All inspiring to me, who has just learned everything!
this is a video about spending money in top tier pc builds, I'd love to see the same for mid range and budget pc builds and i think that video will help a lot of first time pc builders
This isn't a top tier build though...i7 and top 4070 vs i9 with 4090 and nearly a world apart. This is only a top mid-range build. I've almost the exact same build but i7 13th gen.
Toasty Bros does those
tbh, its same concept but different prices. to take away from this, MOBO, RAM, PSU, COOLER are areas where its so easy to overspend
The cheap build is a midtier build...
The expensive one is just brainless zombie build
Yeah there's definitely places you can go cheaper, obviously like ssd and psu but even the cpu cooler you can very good performance for under $50
My biggest tip I ever have when talking to people about building a pc is to watch your videos! No bullshit, no brand loving, just plain honest information!
I was recently part shopping and I was able to get a comparable system configured for about $1,500. I feel better about the parts I picked because of your video. I usually buy top tier but with the economy, I gotta pass this build. Thank you so much.
Thx for the video Jay. Great job pointing this out to people. Ive had this argument SOOOOO many times with people ive built PC's for. A 4% uplift most certainly is NOT worth another $1,500 bucks. How much does Pride cost? How much is Satisfaction worth? In alot of cases there needs to be a compromise. When you open peoples eyes to costs that are involved, 90% of them, agree afterwards. I suggested you do this a long time ago and im thrilled you did it. Thank you.
This is an awesome idea for a video. For the people that started watching your videos years ago and gained a hobby, probably not so much. But for the newer people to pc this really slams home the point that i know you have made but in case you didnt know lol
Agreed, this is the kind of video that people want to see. You can save so much money on a 4% performance difference which doesn't even factor in overclocking the cheaper pc.
Me over here building a 7800x3d/4080 super build for less than the “budget” build 😂
PS: Being a little patient with Amazon/Best Buy deals saves a lot
The real magic of the whole video is that jay had about $6000 of computer parts in the open parking lot and didn't get robbed 😊
😂😂😂😂😂
It’s like he is in Oakland
Jay is a pretty big guy, at first I thought his head was just small.
Jay is a massive dude, they don’t rob the big boys
Sad that this is actually 'no joke' in US, how do you even live like that? Isn't it sad for you to be submerrsed in a such reality?
I love to see Phil in the reflections of Jay's glasses, holding the camera above his head so he can have the camera at eye level... 0:55
how tall i jayz?
@@cicada3312 iirc 6'1" aka around 185 centimeters
lol until you said something….
Thanks for the timestamp! I didn't want to have to rewatch just to miss it again.
Lmao Phil gettin cooked in the comments 😂
How to Save Money on a new rig:
1. Case and MB should be ATX. They offer best compromises between price, heat, and future upgradability.
2. RGB. Look it looks really cool and I like it, but its expensive and useless. If you are on a budget get rid of RGB on everything. You'll save a bundle.
3. Get lower powered CPU like a i5 and AIR cool it. Keep it stock and you'll save on expensive and useless AOI.
4. Limit the number of fans. You are not overclocking and not rocking a RTX4090. 2 is the minimum enough (add more depending on the case).
5. Don't spend more than $800 on a GPU. The difference between a 4700ti and a 4800ti isnt worth $400 if you are counting pennies. You arent going to play in 4K, so a 4070ti is enough. Use the cheaper brands Zotac, PNY, etc.
6. ...and because you are not going to play in 4K, don't get a 4K monitor. You can get a OLED 27" for roughly the same price or some of the cheaper 34" from MSI. The AW3423DWF can bet got on sale if you can spend a tiny bit more.
7. Case - Get a Budget case from a GOOD company. Don't be tempted by the fake premium Chinese Knockoffs. There are plenty at the $100 mark. Get it ATX size.
8. DON'T - SKIMP ON THE PSU. Get a good quality PSU from a good company. Corsair sells the CX750 for $70. 750W is minimum and I would get more up to 1000W for future upgradeability. Avoid Chinese knockoff like the plague as their poor quality can be dangerous.
I probably would have saved $15 on my build without the RGB.
You can get a thermalright air cooler for $30, basically as good as a $110 Noctua Nh14. You can get a thermalright 360 AIO for $60. These aren't the best on the market, but they will perform nearly as well.
What monitor you should get depends on what you are doing. I got a 4k monitor for work for $200. Obviously not a gaming monitor, but still. OLEDs are crazy expensive.
I bought a phanteks case on sale for $35. It looks nice, but it's a bit of a pita, because it's so small. In what world is $100 a budget case?
Any name brand PSU is good enough. Get a decent one, but don't waste money. 750W is not minimum. You don't need a 1000 Watt PSU for upgrades...
This is a video I’m so glad you made, been telling people for years to avoid ASUS for the “ROG tax” and now I have better evidence
Crazy how much NVMe prices have come up. The 2TB 990 Pro only cost me $130 7 months ago and the 970 is $239.
Yeah, I was close to building an SSD server when 4TB enterprise drives were like $200. I thought that was pretty good but figured I'd wait as they should go down even more. Big mistake that was. Now they're 1.75-2.0X the price.
I'll have to wait for the next favorable supply/demand cycle.
I bought a 2TB 990 pro, with heatsink for $170 from Amazon yesterday. So 970 for $60 more seems nuts
I think it could be an obsoleteness tax or maybe the 970 is more in demand due to the known 990 issues?
It's wild to me, I'm seeing Kingston KC3000 2Tb for 220 Euro and the Renegade for 240 in stock at multiple stores. And that SSD is really fast and durable.
Don't buy Samsung Evo... They did a great job getting people to think they are name brand but it is like Nike, or McDonalds. They are providing often times their B or even C stock chips for their own products Heck some of there drives even use D tier chips. The same quality you can the cheapest drives... Samsung has also had major drive issue in the past including Write locking drives errors. No other SSD manufacture has had these kinds of write issues with their drives. Team Group literally only uses A or B tier chips from Samsung or micron and they are about half to sometimes a quarter of the price.
FYI A tier means small chip defects of say less than something like 1 - 5 %, B is like 5-10% defects in dye, C is like up 10-20%, and lastly D tier uses like 20% - 40 or 60% of the chip is defective. FYI This is also why most Samsung drives have so many chips VS other Nvme drives of the same quality. Most people think it is because they are using say SLC VS QLC... Nope they just need more chips since their chips can upto 60% of it as no functional. Now I may have my percentages off, but D tier is know to have the most defects but still be anywhere from 40-60% functional in the Dye making business. This is also why some CPU, GPU's, Used the same exact Dyes but have less cores... The defective cores are segregated then it is sold as a cheaper cut down version.
I seriously appreciate this video. I'm still learning about PC building so it's amazing that you're doing direct comparisons. Really love this channel, I've learned a lot
$239 for 2TB 970 Evo? SSD prices are wild right now, considering I got mine like 5-6 months ago for $99 on sale.
Fortunately, that is partly Samsung's fault. You can get a good 2TB NVME for $100 (TeamGroup, gen 3) to $170 (Samsung 980 Pro, gen 4) no problem.
Yeah that price is absurd. The 970 Evo Plus 2tb is currently $120 at my microcenter
I don't get that one either. I was just in a microcenter the other day and both the 980 pros and 990s were in the 170-180 range. The wd 850x 2tb were just under 150. He had to go out of his way to spend that much on a 970 evo.
I got my 2TB 970 Evo Plus for 115.90€ in October last year. Now the cheapest one is 193€ or 225.90€ in the store I bought mine from. SSD prices have went up a lot in the last 6 months, thankfully there was news about that so I bought all the SSDs I needed before there was big price increases
I think he swapped the price of the 64 gb ram at $159 with the SSD
Going to be building my wife a PC soon, this was very helpful to me.
Your channel is constantly pumping out some of the greatest PC content on youtube, and you all deserve the best. Thanks for this video.
I would watch Joe Delgato’s videos, this guy is incompetent
@@negativaura uhhhhhhhhhh? See yourself out then? Jay is definitely not incompetent.
I pretty much pull all the items from the "budget" side and will soon be building a new PC. My current pc is almost 9years old with the only upgrade I did was ram and gpu. Thank you Jay and team for this.
$1300 difference? My whole ass PC cost me around $950 (god bless Micro Center for real lol), and it's got a 7800 XT in it.
Jenson: In NVIDIA, the more you spend, the less you get:D
Yeah my whole system was about $850. Rocking a RX6600. 60fps locked is all I need. I don’t play e sports games anyway
@Eric-yp5wp you see, that's great! And if you did play e sports games, you would get 144+ fps on them cause they are alot easier to run.
I think a cool video would be to revisit this, but min-max'ing the $3500 build to see how much performance you can get when you don't go for $600 motherboard, etc.
My fellow comrade on the red team!!!
I just bought a new Ryzen 5 build a couple of hours ago. Going from 16GB DDR3 to 32GB DDR5 6000mhz. All up It cost me $1,300, with another $100 spent on shipping and insurance. Gonna love the new build!
did you buy upgrades? Or is the whole system build new?
@@rockyou9967 all brand new, but I already had a graphics card so I didn't buy a new one.
@@reubenbruce2061 So you got a new tower, cpu, ram, mobo, cooling system, drives, psu and everything in between for 1300?
Pretty good deal then.
@@rockyou9967 yeah, had a hard drive from my last PC, got a SSD, and had a GPU, bought everything else new, from scorptec.
Excited to build my first PC! Any recommendations for a reliable Windows activation?
For sure! I've been using BNH-Software for a while now, no issues with activation at all.
@@Mo-Thoughx About to upgrade my PC, will definitely consider BNH-Software for the activation key.
I got mine from BNH-Software. Enjoy your new PC!
I purchased mine from BNH-Software. Best of luck with your new PC!
I purchased mine from Bnh software. Best of luck with your new PC!
I feel like the mobo industry is a response from a few years back where boards at the low end were so anemic VRM wise it was a problem, now we are seeing the pendulum swing in the opposite extreme lol. Overbuilt, extra features, size even...
And yet, despite that, they can't give us a 7-segment display for code readouts on a moderately priced motherboard. Gotta typically spend a minimum of $350 for a board that has it or wait for a sale and possibly get one around the $300 mark.
@@germanw2332 honestly, fk those readouts. Who really uses them? My current board has 4 LEDS for troubleshooting. You don't need more than that.
1% to 4% performance increase for only $1300, totally worth it!
Its literally all coming from the fact that he chose absolutely awful ram (micron die) on the cheaper one when he should've gotten good 32gb which would've been cheaper and left almost no measurable performance difference
Sounds like a typical performance upgrade for a car lol.
@@johnt.848 I just spent 2175,08€ for some fixes and maintenance in my car, I don't even want to know how much I will throw at it when I start with the serious performance modifications.
Jay thank you so much for showing this important information. People do tend to go overboard with parts. This video shows you can save yourself cash with similar performance. Keep these videos coming. Appreciate you helping people.
I'll never buy another Asus PSU. My 1000W Rog Strix was D.O.A. and what a massive hassle I'm going through for an RMA.
DOA's happen but it's the asus rma service that sucks
Sealed when you bought it? I got an ROG THOR 1200W last week. Works perfectly so far.
@@chrish1850 Yeah .. brand spankin new. I was dumb enough to install it and hook it all up before testing because with the "Tier A" Cultists status I thought I was safe .. lesson learned I guess.
Always had Seasonic and never had any problems. Anecdotal, I know, but it's the truth 🙂
@@Craplatte Ironically the Thor is a Seasonic :) Though you could buy an actual Seasonic for a ton less money than the Thor and also get Seasonic service which is, on last count, 3941 times better than Asus service.
Phil must have the most amazing arm strength fr. Shoutout to the camera man getting the shot, even when faced with a giant! XD
the only upside you get for getting more expensive parts that don't need to be, is that you might end up save some in the future, but by the time you'll have to upgrade it, other better valued and performing components will be out and you will want to upgrade those regardless.
Today at work I found a mouse on the inside of the computer. No bueno.
Which kind of mouse?
Extra protein 💪
Was it wireless?
@@Red_Hydrangeait was real
@@phoenics2465 so not a fake old school roller ball one?
My Apple II+, 64Kb, ONE disk drive, parallel, dot matrix, green screen cost $3500 in 1982. A few months before the IIe came out cheaper. My dad called it "god damned $3000 typewriter."
i miss my IIe
Wow.Who would have thought,that the Apple products would be overpriced junk even back then.
@@AlphaPapaWW I miss being a rich kid like that. Actually, I never had a $3500 computer. But I did have two $2500 rigs at one point in 1994 (Amiga 4000 and Pentium). So maybe adjusted for inflation that might be close to that.
@@SeeJayPlayGames i wasnt a rich kid. i was born the same year the IIe came out. i used it in the late 90s as a hand me down computer.
10:16 Yes, in fact I am building my computer right now and even with spending a bit on aesthetics, I was able to buy a 7800x3d and a 7900 gre and the total is looking to be 1300 to 1350 and I even accidentally overspent at many parts (All new parts btw)
Oh and the storage isn't even 1tb, it is 2tb with 7300MB/s so better than the one he uses on the cheap build
Still enjoy the i fix it ads… go around the house, “i fix it!!!!” Clean the vacuum out, “i fix it!!!”, roll the water hose up “i fix it!!!” You can guess the rest haha
Put a 4090 in the cheaper build and still come out ahead in price.
i agree with you Jay, Motherboards are the biggest cost per minimal performance upgrades out there today.
$339 for 32gb 6600 ram?! HOLY GOD. I picked up 64gb 6600mhz Corsair Vengeance for $240 last week on Amazon. That is outrageous!
32gb vengeance corsair ddr5 7000mhz here last week for 159 on amazon.
32gb ddr4 2133mhz ECC £25
@@trumplander420 Used server memory? Nice find, but it's completely irrelevant for 99.99% of the people reading these comments. To start, DDR4 2133 MHz is relatively slow, and the fact that it's ECC memory further reduces its performance. Additionally, only a handful of consumer DDR4 motherboards and CPUs even support ECC.
@@Shidera5721Huananzhi vibes here
@@vadnegru Chinese ECC boards are easy to find
As a swede, I have to be that guy that points out how American it is to have to bring your truck to make sure you have room for everything.
Don't get me wrong - I have a Ram 1500 as an enthusiast vehicle, but my daily driver being a Saab 9-5 SC, being able to fit all that and have room left - I couldn't resist 😂
thats what i was thinking too, i was thinking that it could probably fit in a city car like a Smart(a bit tight) or a Fiat 500
@@miawgogo okay, but now you have to buy a 30k dollar car in addition to the truck, then insure and tag it.
As someone who's gonna get a fresh build after 7 years, this gives some really nice insight. Thanks!
Whenever I build a computer. I ask myself several questions.
1. What is my use case? Examples; gaming, creative (video editing, audio, art), emulation (other operating systems via virtualization), retro gaming. Server use is a different category and require more durable (usually expensive) parts.
2. How often do I plan to upgrade?
3. What expansion options are needed? Internal an external devices
4. What is my initial storage requirement? That answer is usually based on question 1.
5. If there's plans for future upgrades, what is my initial budget? If no plans to upgrade, what is my overall budget?
6. How big of a power supply will I need for my build? Keep in mind that extra peripherals that doesn't have its own power has to factor into your power supply needs.
*7. This is personal for me.. Do I need to upgrade to a higher capacity UPS for my new build?
The UPS question is because I don't use surge protectors for any of my computers. I lost a server due to a really bad power surge caused by a major outage. It was connected to a surge protector with a $50,000 equipment guarantee at the time. I tried to file a claim with both pictures and receipts; only for it to be rejected. That was a painful and expensive experience. Going after them legally would have netted me a bigger loss due to the legal fees. I swore off connecting computers to a surge protector since. I've had power surges since that incident and I never lost any equipment when connected to a UPS.
Now make a $1300 pc.
find other site for plebs pcs
I built a PC today, including monitor - for $987 tax included that will walk all over both of these. For the record not hating on this channel, I’ve learned so much for them. Just making this comment for newcomers thinking they need to drop multiple stacks to have a decent rig.
Being able to quantify the price to performance is the difference between throwing parts together randomly and building with intent.
knowing the difference in price and performance between differ parts is key to knowing what you are paying for.
also knowing the difference in price between the next step up in performance will also help as well.
This right here! Unless you have wads of cash burning a hole in your pocket, it's best to look at cost vs performance and aim to get as close to that sweet spot as you can afford. Also, factor in your projected workload and adjust where on that curve for each part will really give the best bang for the buck.
RAM & SSD prices have gotten TERRIBLE. Should be a crime.
What sucks the most is that they were both so cheap only 5-6 months ago. It took such a short amount of time for them to both become so expensive again.
Don't take those prices for the whole market.
Those are not good prices compared to elsewhere.
Those SSDs were way overpriced.
Out of all the years I've been building pc's for people this is probably the most informative video every new pc owner should watch.
Edit: that 3600$ pc should have a 4090
When did the channel hit 4mil? also Congrats Jay and team!
biggest tip is to figure out what you want your PC to do. then see what you will need to buy for it to do what you need it to do, and then price within your budget. save on the power supply to get a better webcam to stream or skip the web cam and use your cell and get a stream deck, get or skip RGB etc.
BONUS TIP- always check recent build vids to compare realistic price/performance expectations.
Perfect tip, PC is a tool, you need to know what you want to do with it. Too many people that want to buy a 2000$ PC to play 1080p Valorant or Fortnite... ffs
I am currently building a new PC. Already got the GPU and now I must decide which parts. This video helped me a lot to not spend too much on unnecessary parts. Thanks a lot 👌
Foreshadowing: RGBLED, OLED displays on your components, and custom cables DO NOT make your CPU or GPU go faster.
The worlds first unskippable ad:
IFIXITTTTTT
You're right; it's the one ad on YT that I actually sit and watch. Still great after all this time.
@@JamieStuff Admiral Jay
actually, I never skip and sometimes i was even watching this ad few times lol
best ever ad
i skip it in a heartbeat, that ad is corny af
i always just skip it.
I never thought about the fact that Phil has to hold the camera above his head in order for the video to be at eye level with Jay, until I saw his reflection in his sunglasses. I'm currently laughing my ass off at the fact that Phil has to hold that camera a solid foot over his head in order to film at Jay's full height and the best part, you can see it through Jay's sunglasses. S tier camera work, well done. Give Phil a raise, man has to hold the camera over his head like he's getting something off the top shelf to be at Jay's eye level.
$239 on a 2TB gen 3 SSD is wild. I bought a 2TB gen 4 drive for $99 just 7 months ago.
Is it still available for that price? If not then it is irrelevant.
@@josephoverstreet5584 is it still $99? No, but it is still significantly cheaper than that drive. It’s also not irrelevant in a conversation about the price of your PC hardware to point out how the price of certain hardware has been inflated to gross levels. I’m pretty sure the same drive Jay bought was sub $100 not that long ago.
Great video! I appreciate not only the wise advice on gauging value, but also the trade offs between component spec and performance potential.
What’s crazy is you can take it a step further for a budget Microcenter build and end up with a comparable, or even better performing machine. Here’s my recent build:
Powerspec B940 - on sale, $900
I9 13900k
MSI z690A
32gb DDR5 6000
240L Liquid ML RGB cooler
2TB NVME
Seasonic USA Focus V3 1000watt PSU
Lian Li ATX case
Gigabyte 4070 Ti Super Gaming - $829 on sale
Grand total = $1729, ~$2150 without sale price
You're paying for the embellishments; RGB, LED screens, the branding, etc.
But when it comes to GPU ,zotac one had more RGB
15:11 GIGABOARD !! :D
Basically : Avoid ROG. 😂😂😂😂
No, avoid ASUS
Fucking not even the most pricey dude, not even by fuckin half!
>imagine honest to god paying $1200 for a board
>it's not even a threadripper
Actually I looked at these boards too they're shit. They're basically just not even that overbuilt, they don't got the fuckin SATA ports and the stupid fuckers are lacking PCIe expansion, it's all geared toward NVMe drives. Like 5+ NVMe. Idk I think PCIe lanes on NVMe is a waste of gosh damn space frankly I ain't fuckin doin it, nope solid hard nope Imma keep me SSDs and HDDs dude. I got 9tb of storage, only 1.5 of that is NVMe. I only need the like one boot drive on NVMe anyway and maybe an editing rig swap drive that's it. You can't even use the stupid things in an enclosure. I personally think NVMe will become a less popular standard over time, that it'll be so niche like mSATA and FireWire. I got multiple ways to use FireWire, I also have a mSATA drive I really like on me laptop. I have eSATA on this laptop. That's how I feel about NVME until they use something better than USB C or Thunderbird for enclosures, it's got basically SSD speed at that point only difference is, I can fit 6x1tb SSD drives on that, inlcuding me nice looking Delta Max ARGB SSD. They look fantastic I might add. OR, I get....one single NVMe drive to take away 4 SATA ports. This just reminds me of the stupid things in the past where you ended up disabling USB and SSD ports for stupid things a decade ago.
In other words the 1200$ board has less optionality to me than a regular $300 board. You're basically paying for LCD screens.
Yeah avoid Asus
The best advice i could give anyone looking to get into building a rig is to not buy into brand loyalty, find the games and resolution you want to play at and figure out what GPU/CPU combo works for your budget.
Ignore the fanboys on every single team, use what you want and purchase what makes sense for your build.
The 4080-SUPER is easily only $220 more, but with 25% differences in performance.
Should have used Gen4 nvme and faster ram but 32gigs.
Gaming ram is better with tighter latency.
But ya that motherboard is really unnecessary
Easy way to save money on a PC.
Build it yourself. (it is not that hard) Companys charge money for putting your PC together so you can save that money too.
All the parts are what you want so no need to replace anything.
Building me PC was one of the best things I ever did in life. That's including quitting smoking cigarettes. It wasn't just that wise--it was that enjoyable to me. I adore tinkering.
Love your videos and I have been watching since the 2080Ti SLI vid. Always putting out amazing content that hits more common topics and gives real world advice. Keep up the great work!
I bought a i7-12700K bundle from Microcenter 2 weeks ago came with a MSI generic board for $329 with 16gb ram. I'm no longer making these $2000 machines. Such a waste of money. I'm buying a 1-2 year old technology at a discount. I put in a 4060 video card and additional 16 gb of of DDR 4 and it fly's. I benchmark UFO across the board on userbench. Also top 10% in passmark. Just like golf, not buying that driver for $600, I'll wait a year or 2 and get for $200. Whatever you buy today will be discounted in a year. New pc build was a $1000.
dont ever buy a 4k monitor. that will save a lot of money.
nah, I buy 4k to watch contents and game at 1440p
i like these series since I am cheap and easily gullible with "gaming" marketing. Keep it up! I want a monthly parts vs parts version of this!
Hi there, Old newbie here. Thank you for this video. It reminds me of this: Years ago (and perhaps again now) there was a battle regarding audio equipment, also about the needles and elements used in pick-ups. Differences could only be measured but could no longer be heard.
Back then you could also make huge savings by not letting things drive you crazy.
I am planning to build my first gaming pc and I just want a good experience playing games.
I find Jay's videos very helpfull in my quest.
I am looking for a similar video about monitors and sound.
Stay Healthy Jay we need more videos like these, by the way thank you so much!
Yes, I went overboard with my current build, which I finished January, 2023. I have just under $6,000.00 invested. And that does not include custom liquid cooling. I just used a Corsair AIO. However, I now have 128GB of G.Skill Trident Z5 6400MZ RGB RAM. I also used 3, 1TB Samsung 980Pro M.2 NVMe SSD drives. One for OS and programs, one for files and the third for a whole system backup. I'm using the Gigabyte AORUS Master Z690 motherboard, the Intel i9-13900k CPU and the Gigabyte AORUS RTX-3090 Xtreme graphics card. I top it off with the Acer Predator X38 monitor and replaced all case fans with the Corsair Magnetic levitation RGB fans. My case is a full tower E-ATX Segotep Phoenix T-1. When you add in an outboard DVD burner, Logitech THX certified speakers, printer, keyboard and mouse, I have built a monster here. I almost forgot about the power supply. It is the Seasonic Prime Ultra Platinum 1,300watt unit.
In a nutshell, there is no reason to spend more money on top products when an above average product will do extremely well while saving you a lot or money.
It's time to take that into consideration when I decide to put a new PC in a few months.
Love the channel, followed and subbed for future content.
The biggest thing I've learned over the years is to never skimp on the power supply. Always go for the Gold, Platinum, or Titanium-rated models and give yourself a wattage overhead of around 20% over what your hardware needs (for instance, these builds could probably run comfortably on a 800 to 850-watt PSU but running on a 1000-watt PSU will improve wall power efficiency under load and run cooler). Go ahead and spend a little more on the models with modular or semi-modular designs, too - you'll be glad you did when it comes to cable management.
I always thought that a 50% overhead was preferential so a 400w system would require 600w to 650w PSU and a 500w system would need a 750w PSU etc this reasoning allows for extra fans and drives etc as the case evolves without running into issues.
I'm glad you posted this; will help a lot of people. Personally and fortunately I managed to save 1470 USD by avoiding high-end over expensive Asus parts for my newest build even before this video. I was battling the Asus fan boy inside of me and went full gigabyte, and boy I'm glad I did that and saved a lot of money 💰.
My advice is to do what I did: buy your parts during a really good sale on New Egg. I saved close to $400 and was able to upgrade my SSD, GPU, and motherboard as well.
Jay this and the used pc stuff you been doing lately is the best content you have made to date!
I still think going am4 is a good choice. Unless there's some drastic cpu paradigm shift in the horizon you can ride a 5800x3d untill am6 no problem
Job well done Jay and Phill. Would love to see more of these!
haha the ifixit ad is the only one i like form allll the tubes! and dont mind seeing it over and over!
At 7:53
Samsung storage drive....
He's running a Gen 3 drive,
The 980, a Gen 4 drive, you can get it for like $169 bucks on PC parts picker....2GB as well. Probably a much better drive than a gen 3....so save some money get a newer and faster drive at the same time!!
Love this and everything you said is exactly what I did for my build.
Your content and Paul's hardware are always my go to for pc info. Thank you for what you do sir!
I remember being a kid trying to cost-cut anywhere possible, price shopping all the major websites, mail-in rebates, and sometimes it helped working at OfficeMax, we’d find out about sale and clearances items before anyone else.
Best video I've seen in a while. I like the angle you tool, it makes the choice even easier.
for any first time builders build the system for what you need it to do and what features you need RGB is a hell of a drug but it is not necessary for a case where you cant see it also the more you spend the more cables you have to manage
I switched to an sff setup and boy rgb with the extra cables drives me nuts. I have gone rgb less, you cant see it anyway
I am shocked and blown away how the more expensive PC only out performed the less expensive PC by only a little bit. This video is a valuable demonstrating how to save money and what parts to spend the money on.
Bottom line is a relative medium build when compared to the highest spec of the same generation is only going to be at best 25% below the top spec but the top spec system could be another $2k or more in price, are you really going to notice the difference between 150 fps to 200 fps when gaming, Heavy workload though when using Photoshop, AI or whatever may be a different story but the medium spec PC will still get the job done just slower.
My best saving tip is to buy on sale, when newer models have arrived. Black Friday and similar. Sometimes "demo" products might be worth it. Second is to think about what the PC are to do, and for how long, what components and functions do you really need. Look up tests and reviews, does the price difference match the performance one (in % ) .
15:48 - Typically with more expensive motherboards (with similar I/O, etc), from what I’ve seen lately, the most useful spec is more power available to the CPU. So, overclocking is theoretically going to be more stable and potentially better for the CPU than the cheaper boards… IF you’re going to OC. You still won’t see a Cost::Performance match. But they’re made for enthusiasts who like to tinker. Same thing happens in any market; cars, Audio, Video, etc.
Great video, though. Keep up the great work!
Would swapping to a SATA SSD impact gaming performance at all? Doing that with a new rig to save on costs. Still using an M.2 Gen4 for boot drive.
first trip to microcenter ever and the staff there helped my friend save a lot.