Nice job! It’s great to see such a young man restore the old machines. You are a credit to your parents and yourself. 👍. I worked for an IH dealer for 40 years. Been through many of the H’s and M’s. It was a trip down memory lane. Thanks for the fun.
Well done Andrew ! I am a retired Chevron Lube Oil Rep and am familiar with these products and Ocean State. Wish I would of found your channel earlier. Keep up the great work !!
AN amazing refurbishing project. This how I like to see rebuilds and refurbishing of older equipment. You should be very proud of your work... Thumbs Up!
Hats off to you and to Ocean State/Chevron for stepping up and helping you out. This is not a cheap endeavor. Glad that folks are noticing you and helping you out. Cheers!
The tractor is looking great Andrew! Love you explaining all of your steps. That’s a lot of editing! It’s getting close to firing off! 👌You do quality work!
Respects. Rien d'autre à dire. Reconstruction comme on aimerait en voir plus. Il est vrai que cela doit demander de sérieux investissements, tant financiers, que disponibilité. Sur TH-cam, on a plus l'habitude de voir des remises en marche hasardeuses et sans grandes précautions pour les matériels. Merci de ces partages. J'attends la suite avec impatience.
Andrew, you make very interesting videos because you explain the procedures as you remove/install the various parts without adding a lot of extra talking. Blessings to you.
You are as amazing as your videos! Great job explaining what you are doing and why. You are an inspiration to those of us who also have old project tractors sitting in the barn waiting to be worked on. I love that you were wearing a "green" shirt while working on your "red" tractor!
I have an 1968 Oliver 1750 that is unrestored but used on frequent basis. All the original rubber fuel lines and hydraulic hoses were painted during the factory assembly. Over the years I’ve replaced several of the rubber or rubber covered lines and was surprised to find the original painted rubber parts lasted 50 plus years but the new, unpainted parts show deterioration after just a few years.
Nice knurling for those loose bearing bores. Old school. Just on hint, on the valve cover gasket, run a small bead of windshield sealant on the cover so the gasket stays with the cover. I don't use anything on the other side of them but your grease trick is okay too. You run less chance of damaging it taking it off and on. I'm a little wary of grease on the wheel clamps, I've never seen that done. Just make sure they're tight, check them a often. Tractor looks great young man. Best regards from Indiana.
Windshield sealant is a nightmare to remove, silicone is sufficient. A thin layer of grease on axle may not be entirely necessary, I actually ended up moving the hubs in and not getting one of them tight enough, destroyed the hub and clamp at tractor pull.
@@thesmallenginekid I never have had a problem, you cannot glob it on, just a very thin bead. But we all have our preferred methods. To bad about your hub but nice to know you're working it. Thank you for your reply, I'm looking forward to your next video.
Thank goodness you had a head for the 450 propane tractor. Using the old m would be a disappointmenting when plowing but would help if ever using diesel which has many more btu's per gallon but lubricates the piston and valve stems. In the old days propane used Castolite valve seats that were much harder than regular valve seats. I HAVE NO IDEA what is used today.
You need to install alignment studs when joining those heavy castings. It will be perfect every time, and your gasket maker won't smear. Nice job , and good luck 👍
Hey Andrew 30 year diesel mechanic here and where you were peening the bearing journals try this on your next rebuild with steel case take a 12Volt battery charger put the ground on the case and with the positive lead clamp and a hacksaw blade and go around inside bearing surface and go all the way inside with the hacksaw blade and then you will have to drive it in work great and if your still worried about the bearing turning in the journal use loctite red bearing retainer just don't go to crazy with it!!!
I truly enjoy watching your videos. And you're no BS talking. You get straight to the point explaining what you're doing. Then why you're doing it and and watching your dad work with you? That's a real pleasure that brings back a lot of great memories for me. Working with my dad, my Grandpa when I was younger. Take care, young man, you've got a bright future, idiot.
Kudos to you, Andrew. Great job. The M is looking great, but there is something just wrong with you wearing a Deere t-shirt and working on an IH Farmall Tractor! Ya need a Farmall shirt!
Excellent video I learned a lot! I was wondering if you made your own puck to remove the liners or did you buy one? If you made it would you know the size of the larger diameter and the size of the smaller diameter that fits into the liner? It was really nice of Cheavron to donate the oil they make great products up here in Winnipeg Manitoba Canada it goes down to -40 Celsius at night and sometimes only-30 in the day and Cheaveron makes excellent Arctic grease! 😀🇨🇦
I used a piece of hardened 1/2 plate to make the puck. It does not fit inside liner just sits on top. If I had a lathe I would have made the counterbore.
Jason, my. Name is Ken, I live in AL and getting ready to refurbish a 1947 M and I will be needing to know where to I can get parts. I need a gas tank now. Any help or advice you can give would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Ken.
I’m a bit concerned about putting an LP head onto a gas engine. Propane has an octane rating of around 140 - gas is only 86-94., at best. So you might have an issue with pinging, or, worse yet, breaking pistons, blowing head gaskets, stretching head bolts, back firing while cranking, depending of course what the comp ration is with your combination.
Right, all good concerns and reasons not to change what the engineers designed. However, I understand the block, head bolts, pistons were identical for both heads in the 1940's. The higher compression did lead to dieseling with 89 octane gas. Buying the higher octane racing fuel was expensive but eliminated the dieseling.
This is a very large project for someone so young. Being so young has one distinct problem. That is to keep working on the project. You seem ok because of a previous tractor, but I would imagine loosing focus every once in a while with someone so young. All the physics involved here will fuel the rest of your life no matter what direction your life takes. You will have trouble finding a female attractive and focused as much as you after a project this large. I am talking about a future life mate. Your search for such should take a very long time. Just saying, it could be first or 105th, there is just no way to tell about something so important to your happiness without massive prayer.
Bearing races are harder than the face of a hammer so there is not much risk of damaging the race. The hammer face would deform before the race deforms or chips.
Nice job! It’s great to see such a young man restore the old machines. You are a credit to your parents and yourself. 👍. I worked for an IH dealer for 40 years. Been through many of the H’s and M’s. It was a trip down memory lane. Thanks for the fun.
Well done Andrew ! I am a retired Chevron Lube Oil Rep and am familiar with these products and Ocean State. Wish I would of found your channel earlier. Keep up the great work !!
AN amazing refurbishing project. This how I like to see rebuilds and refurbishing of older equipment. You should be very proud of your work... Thumbs Up!
Coming along nicely Andrew, great work. I also appreciate you describing the process of what you’re doing.
Hats off to you and to Ocean State/Chevron for stepping up and helping you out. This is not a cheap endeavor. Glad that folks are noticing you and helping you out. Cheers!
Great job! Lots of work and dedication. Pat yourself on the back!
Highly addictive to see how these artefacts were built with indefinite usage in mind. They are far more repairable/simple than modern stuff.
The tractor is looking great Andrew! Love you explaining all of your steps. That’s a lot of editing! It’s getting close to firing off! 👌You do quality work!
Love the John Deere tee shirt you did a fantastic job on a difficult project!
Great work. Hello from Croatia!🇭🇷
A very good job done.Best wishes from germany
You deserve some kind of reward for doing this at your age.
Very VERY Impressive Andrew! Thoroughly enjoyed watching your M resto! regards from AU
Respects. Rien d'autre à dire. Reconstruction comme on aimerait en voir plus. Il est vrai que cela doit demander de sérieux investissements, tant financiers, que disponibilité. Sur TH-cam, on a plus l'habitude de voir des remises en marche hasardeuses et sans grandes précautions pour les matériels. Merci de ces partages. J'attends la suite avec impatience.
You done every thing to specks.you are a good mechanic
Andrew, you make very interesting videos because you explain the procedures as you remove/install the various parts without adding a lot of extra talking. Blessings to you.
Me hace acordar de mi abuelo...
3l contaba que en su trabajo usaba un farmall me trae mucha nostalgia.
Gracias. Por hacerme recordar 👍
You are as amazing as your videos! Great job explaining what you are doing and why. You are an inspiration to those of us who also have old project tractors sitting in the barn waiting to be worked on.
I love that you were wearing a "green" shirt while working on your "red" tractor!
Looks good. Nice to see young people like you fixing old tractors. Keep smilin
Nicely done! That’s a lot of work.
I have an 1968 Oliver 1750 that is unrestored but used on frequent basis. All the original rubber fuel lines and hydraulic hoses were painted during the factory assembly. Over the years I’ve replaced several of the rubber or rubber covered lines and was surprised to find the original painted rubber parts lasted 50 plus years but the new, unpainted parts show deterioration after just a few years.
watching them working day and night they must be single
Beautiful job, Andrew!
I've been hanging out for that video man!
Can't wait for the last one. You're doing a great job
Nice knurling for those loose bearing bores. Old school. Just on hint, on the valve cover gasket, run a small bead of windshield sealant on the cover so the gasket stays with the cover. I don't use anything on the other side of them but your grease trick is okay too. You run less chance of damaging it taking it off and on. I'm a little wary of grease on the wheel clamps, I've never seen that done. Just make sure they're tight, check them a often. Tractor looks great young man.
Best regards from Indiana.
Windshield sealant is a nightmare to remove, silicone is sufficient. A thin layer of grease on axle may not be entirely necessary, I actually ended up moving the hubs in and not getting one of them tight enough, destroyed the hub and clamp at tractor pull.
@@thesmallenginekid I never have had a problem, you cannot glob it on, just a very thin bead. But we all have our preferred methods. To bad about your hub but nice to know you're working it. Thank you for your reply, I'm looking forward to your next video.
Good job young fella.
I went down the same road long long ago
New bearing and seals, good for another 50 years.
fantastic work ethic,great skills and content,vast knowledge,thanks for sharing
This young buck will carry on a lost art.
Thank goodness you had a head for the 450 propane tractor. Using the old m would be a disappointmenting when plowing but would help if ever using diesel which has many more btu's per gallon but lubricates the piston and valve stems. In the old days propane used Castolite valve seats that were much harder than regular valve seats. I HAVE NO IDEA what is used today.
You need to install alignment studs when joining those heavy castings. It will be perfect every time, and your gasket maker won't smear. Nice job , and good luck 👍
Thank you very much for the video. 👍🤗👍🇸🇯
That tractor is a good tractor it's worth fixing 🎉😂❤
Hello from Azerbaijan ✊🇦🇿👍👍👍
Just amazing.
Hey Andrew 30 year diesel mechanic here and where you were peening the bearing journals try this on your next rebuild with steel case take a 12Volt battery charger put the ground on the case and with the positive lead clamp and a hacksaw blade and go around inside bearing surface and go all the way inside with the hacksaw blade and then you will have to drive it in work great and if your still worried about the bearing turning in the journal use loctite red bearing retainer just don't go to crazy with it!!!
Fantastic , aqui BRASIL
Awesome job thank you for the video
I truly enjoy watching your videos. And you're no BS talking. You get straight to the point explaining what you're doing. Then why you're doing it and and watching your dad work with you? That's a real pleasure that brings back a lot of great memories for me. Working with my dad, my Grandpa when I was younger. Take care, young man, you've got a bright future, idiot.
why did you call him an idiot?
Love your informational, witty content.
You got soft hands brother
Excellent presentation depicting knowledge of all components.
Great job you did, on the Ford tractor you are very knowledge on fixing. Best of luck.
First time watching you you are s I young and si talented hope you win want to vote but don't know how great job
WOW FELICIDADES QUE PASION POR LOS TRACTORES WOW SALUDOS MI CONPA
bravo cool
Hey man, hope you keep up with the videos.. super cool !!
Belo trabalho parabéns Brasil 🇧🇷
Nice job🎉
Next time add some red lock tight to the housing and bearing to make sure it stays in place. Old coal mine macanic trick and it also makes a seal.
Kudos to you, Andrew. Great job. The M is looking great, but there is something just wrong with you wearing a Deere t-shirt and working on an IH Farmall Tractor! Ya need a Farmall shirt!
Thanks Andrew. Much respect.
Excellent.
Waiting for next episode hello from bharat India 🇮🇳
Fantastic
Hi from Turkey!
Sir. How did you get 40 years of experience at your age? Great video and You are a very skilled mechanic.
Excellent video I learned a lot!
I was wondering if you made your own puck to remove the liners or did you buy one?
If you made it would you know the size of the larger diameter and the size of the smaller diameter that fits into the liner?
It was really nice of Cheavron to donate the oil they make great products up here in Winnipeg Manitoba Canada it goes down to -40 Celsius at night and sometimes only-30 in the day and Cheaveron makes excellent Arctic grease!
😀🇨🇦
I used a piece of hardened 1/2 plate to make the puck. It does not fit inside liner just sits on top. If I had a lathe I would have made the counterbore.
Nice job
Hy...good work
😊😊😊😊😊😊😊
Dude, I'm absolutely baffled by your skills and knowledge you have at your age, you're younger than 20 at least I guess?
You have soft hands boy
💪💪💪👍👍👍 good
Jason, my. Name is Ken, I live in AL and getting ready to refurbish a 1947 M and I will be needing to know where to I can get parts. I need a gas tank now. Any help or advice you can give would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Ken.
Oiling the head bolts alters the torque on the nuts ??
It makes the torque more accurate.
Must have been difficult to take that apart as far as you did
How long it took to restore it please?
Bought in February, "Finished" in August. I have over 500 hours in it.
17:10 ...and will try to sell this beat to Snoop. :)
❤VIDEOS,,
😮
I’m a bit concerned about putting an LP head onto a gas engine. Propane has an octane rating of around 140 - gas is only 86-94., at best. So you might have an issue with pinging, or, worse yet, breaking pistons, blowing head gaskets, stretching head bolts, back firing while cranking, depending of course what the comp ration is with your combination.
Right, all good concerns and reasons not to change what the engineers designed. However, I understand the block, head bolts, pistons were identical for both heads in the 1940's. The higher compression did lead to dieseling with 89 octane gas. Buying the higher octane racing fuel was expensive but eliminated the dieseling.
It's nice to use the punch marks but you ought to take some red log tape. Put around and then put it in that a whole pulled it better.
😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊
9:05 9:07
Бензиновый трактор?
SEAL THE TOP TRANS PLATE BOLTS TO KEEP RAIN WATER OUT OF TRANS.
Sasa 9:26
We voted or you as much as we could. Great work, Bill That New Jersey farmer worked that poor machine to death, right?
🇦🇿
🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉😅😅😅😅😅😅
This is a very large project for someone so young. Being so young has one distinct problem. That is to keep working on the project. You seem ok because of a previous tractor, but I would imagine loosing focus every once in a while with someone so young. All the physics involved here will fuel the rest of your life no matter what direction your life takes. You will have trouble finding a female attractive and focused as much as you after a project this large. I am talking about a future life mate. Your search for such should take a very long time. Just saying, it could be first or 105th, there is just no way to tell about something so important to your happiness without massive prayer.
It's really bad to hit bearings with a hammer.
It can literally put you in a hospital.
Always use a block of wood to hammer on.
Bearing races are harder than the face of a hammer so there is not much risk of damaging the race. The hammer face would deform before the race deforms or chips.
@@thesmallenginekid That's not true. The hammer is hard enough to shatter the bearing and make it explode in your face.
You’re not supposed to work on a Farmall in a John Deere shirt