This is what I want- already been through 4 handymen who say they arent interested in doing it, or charge excessive $$$ for labor. Beautiful simple design you have.
Great video. I am making my own man gate for our garden and I plan on facing the fence off like you did. I loved the explanation by your wife. Made me smile as my wife is fencing with me. Thanks again.
Good job! Suggestion: add an auto vertical adjustable wheel to the bottom of each half of the gate to stabilize the gate at all times! The size of vertical auto adjustable part should match the largest gap between the bottom of the gate and the ground. As a result, for example , when you open the right half of the gate the corresponding wheel will travel on the grass(ground) and will support the right half.
I would have left the spacer off the gate on the right and just added extra wood on either gate in the middle to just close up the space. 20/20 hindsight always makes us learn! Great video and I look forward to future videos!
Also as i've worked as a carpenter for close to 40 years and noticed you used a level when installing ykur gate hinges I always tilted my hinges out away from tge center as the first thing that wears out in a hinge is the barrell tends to get loose and the gate will drop to the center which could cause them to bind anyway it was a great video
We are fencing in my nephew's back yard and saving the gates for last. I've looked at several videos and gate builds, but I like your approach the best with our fence which is 1x6 and wire using 4x4 posts, so next weekend, we'll be doing our best to emulate your example. Very much appreciated!!!
LOL! 100 feet into the ground! Thanks for your videos,and the laughs! I like the way you present them and I get a lot of tips for doing things just a little bit easier! Also very entertaining!
I am building a wooden frame and wire fence around my home apple orchard and will include 2 gates . Your video editing and step-by-step instruction is very clear and I appreciate you including the things that didn't go completely to plan. Adding the trim to the gates gave them a nice finished appearance and I will incorporate that feature in my build. I am using 4" x 4" x 8' PT posts and sinking them 2' into the (rocky) ground. I live in Wisconsin and 2' isn't below the frost line, but I have had success with setting other posts 2' deep and not having frost heave issues . I back fill with just the soil and gravel that I excavated when augering the post holes.
Thanks for video. N hemisphere a little different to these parts. Short posts you acknowledge. Sometimes even longer posts have tendency to be pulled over with heavy gate. Consider a double-strand fence wire tie from top of gate posts to base of next fence post out. Commonly done here at intervals to stabilize sections of fence, and gate posts, when tensioning of fence wire is inevitable or gate is heavy/wide. When that is attended to the whole structure can last the life of the timbers used.
I use a circular saw and eyeball a scribe line. Get good chisels. More than one of each. So if one gets dull you have another sharp one. Half laps are great. A back saw or dovetail saw are also helpful in cleaning up joints if the grain does not favor chisels.
A 1/4” guywire connected to the outside top of the posts staked into the ground can be used as a less intrusive option than the counterbalancing 2x4”s. You can also sink a 4x4 horizontally as a threshold to connect the posts.
I sometimes wonder about the use of glue on a project like this. With exterior projects that are exposed to full sun there is so much wood movement that the glue joint won't last very long. Great video
If anything, the Titebond III will provide some waterproofing protection inside the lap joints so they will not rot out as quickly if it wasn't used. I built a gate like this last weekend and used the glue and screws, so we'll see what happens. Check back with me in a few years! :-) Cheers
For posts. Dig huge footing holes. Much bigger than the posts. Then put in layered construction aggregates around the posts. Finish the top layer with bigger rocks for final leveling. then tamp in a fine sand topdressing over the entire perimeter of the enclosure. For good grading and drainage. The grainy sand also discourages the animals digging to a degree.
@@BuildingWithBlake I'm considering building 4 - four-foot sections and having them slide and fold into each other. I have a bit of a slope to deal with, so this is going to be interesting.
I don't have a miter saw so I'm doing my 1st half lap joints w the DeWalt compact saw, 4 1/2" blade I think, and I have a chisel and sander... 2x4's for gate
Is there a standard name for the stakes / shims you used to straighten and strengthen the post? Did you just build them yourself? Do they always push the post on the opposite side that you put them into the ground?
Looks nice. Noble of you to admit the flaws and even wait to make it all public. Definitely worth extra effort on the posts and foundations. You might consider a 2+” metal post but definitely needs to be deeper, especially with the fertile soil you have. Concrete is relatively cheap, especially compared to all you’ve put into the rest of the gate. You could even make it a trench footing (combine with the next comment) for easier digging and greater stability. Even if the majority fence is lightweight construction, you could build a more substantial rigid section on either side of the first section to add stability.
Thanks for your note. I think a rigid section on either side is a must. These 4x4s are not meant to take that much lateral weight. I will look into metal for next time.
Metal is good, and nice in being able to put it in the ground without rotting. Even PT rots. Do realize that the post is only as strong as the foundation. IMO, definitely worth a little extra digging to bury relatively cheap concrete.
Thank you for sharing. I want to build this style of gate for my daughter using your plan. Where the gate to be the ground is not level. Therefore, one post is about 6 in higher than the other. How can I make this look nice with out building gates that are wracked?
@@BuildingWithBlake thanks. Yes, I experimented with tite bond on the PT and it didn't hold at all. I then gave up, didn't use the tite bond and just drilled carriage bolts into it. Strong as anything.
Keeping your other face mask where you are cutting will *probably have dust from what ever you are cutting sit inside of it. With that said, I appreciate your hard work. ✌️
You certainly deserve negative comments on this gate install (1) The posts are not deep enough, (2) the concrete should have only been in the hole and came above the ground surface. and the biggest mistake you made was showing this video.
Dude, why you have to be a douche bag. The man was clear to point out his mistakes and did not claim to be an expert but gave a lot of good ideas. You must be a very insecure person to build yourself up by trying to tear somebody else down. In reality it just makes you look petty.
This is what I want- already been through 4 handymen who say they arent interested in doing it, or charge excessive $$$ for labor. Beautiful simple design you have.
I wonder what you consider excessive??
Great video. I am making my own man gate for our garden and I plan on facing the fence off like you did. I loved the explanation by your wife. Made me smile as my wife is fencing with me. Thanks again.
It was very nice showing us the different ways to do the half laps.🎉
Good job! Suggestion: add an auto vertical adjustable wheel to the bottom of each half of the gate to stabilize the gate at all times! The size of vertical auto adjustable part should match the largest gap between the bottom of the gate and the ground. As a result, for example , when you open the right half of the gate the corresponding wheel will travel on the grass(ground) and will support the right half.
The wife summed it up! I like her style. She should build the next project?
Thank you for taking the time to show us. Beautiful gate!❤
I would have left the spacer off the gate on the right and just added extra wood on either gate in the middle to just close up the space. 20/20 hindsight always makes us learn! Great video and I look forward to future videos!
I put posts in 30 years ago using the dry
method as you did. They are still strong
after 30 years. Good job.
Also as i've worked as a carpenter for close to 40 years and noticed you used a level when installing ykur gate hinges I always tilted my hinges out away from tge center as the first thing that wears out in a hinge is the barrell tends to get loose and the gate will drop to the center which could cause them to bind anyway it was a great video
Your gates look great. I always set my two gate posts in cement. Of course make sure they're level as the cement dries.
We are fencing in my nephew's back yard and saving the gates for last. I've looked at several videos and gate builds, but I like your approach the best with our fence which is 1x6 and wire using 4x4 posts, so next weekend, we'll be doing our best to emulate your example. Very much appreciated!!!
LOL! 100 feet into the ground! Thanks for your videos,and the laughs! I like the way you present them and I get a lot of tips for doing things just a little bit easier! Also very entertaining!
Very nice and detailed work 😊
I am building a wooden frame and wire fence around my home apple orchard and will include 2 gates . Your video editing and step-by-step instruction is very clear and I appreciate you including the things that didn't go completely to plan. Adding the trim to the gates gave them a nice finished appearance and I will incorporate that feature in my build. I am using 4" x 4" x 8' PT posts and sinking them 2' into the (rocky) ground. I live in Wisconsin and 2' isn't below the frost line, but I have had success with setting other posts 2' deep and not having frost heave issues . I back fill with just the soil and gravel that I excavated when augering the post holes.
Awesome video! Teaches exactly what we need to do! Thanks for the confidence boost
Grerat Detail, Nice job, Thanks
Good work!
Your honesty is a good thing!
Great music selections.
I have been viewing a lot of gate building videos lately. Your’s is, without a doubt, one of the best. Great tips and well made. Thanks!
Your videos are awesome! Keep it up! Thanks for all you do!
We use a small piece of galvanized fence post hammered into the ground, instead of the PVC, but that works too.
Awesome video. Very easy to understand.
Awesome step by step instructions, great idea!
you must be joking would you pay this guy to install farm gates for you?
Thanks for video. N hemisphere a little different to these parts. Short posts you acknowledge. Sometimes even longer posts have tendency to be pulled over with heavy gate. Consider a double-strand fence wire tie from top of gate posts to base of next fence post out. Commonly done here at intervals to stabilize sections of fence, and gate posts, when tensioning of fence wire is inevitable or gate is heavy/wide. When that is attended to the whole structure can last the life of the timbers used.
Great idea with heating the pvc! I was wondering how you were gonna drive that into the ground without filling it with dirt.
I use a circular saw and eyeball a scribe line. Get good chisels. More than one of each. So if one gets dull you have another sharp one. Half laps are great. A back saw or dovetail saw are also helpful in cleaning up joints if the grain does not favor chisels.
Thanks for waiting to post so you could give us more info.
A 1/4” guywire connected to the outside top of the posts staked into the ground can be used as a less intrusive option than the counterbalancing 2x4”s. You can also sink a 4x4 horizontally as a threshold to connect the posts.
That is a fine gate
Luckily, my frost line is below 5 inches. I would use solar light post caps, adds ambience.
Nice video. Thanks for the insight.
Top-notch job!
@leotoAdonai you must be joking would you pay this guy to install farm gates for you?
nice gate!
I use half lap joints for all our gates & doors to stock pens. I made a simple jig for my router and I can knock out perfect joints in no tome.
If you’re on instagram hit me up at building_with_blake. I’d love to see that jig.
I sometimes wonder about the use of glue on a project like this. With exterior projects that are exposed to full sun there is so much wood movement that the glue joint won't last very long. Great video
If anything, the Titebond III will provide some waterproofing protection inside the lap joints so they will not rot out as quickly if it wasn't used. I built a gate like this last weekend and used the glue and screws, so we'll see what happens. Check back with me in a few years! :-) Cheers
@@webcompanion that's a good point about the glue acting as waterproofing, even if the joint fails.
For posts. Dig huge footing holes. Much bigger than the posts. Then put in layered construction aggregates around the posts. Finish the top layer with bigger rocks for final leveling. then tamp in a fine sand topdressing over the entire perimeter of the enclosure. For good grading and drainage. The grainy sand also discourages the animals digging to a degree.
Great video. Very useful. Thank you.
Awesome video, thanks!
The measurement discrepancy with "2x4s" can be solved by buying them from an Amish lumbermill where they're still cut 2 inches by 4 inches.
Nice job
@KyJack13 you must be joking would you pay this guy to install farm gates for you?
He’s not a pro and does not claim to be. For a DIY this is a solid job.
nice video
I need to build a 16-foot gate (easement). Checking this out.
That’s big!
@@BuildingWithBlake I'm considering building 4 - four-foot sections and having them slide and fold into each other. I have a bit of a slope to deal with, so this is going to be interesting.
That sounds cool! Let me know how it goes.
Then find another video and do nothing like this guy did.
Well done. Thanks! Can you please share the specific gate latch you used?
I just tagged a bunch of the materials
Well done
I don't have a miter saw so I'm doing my 1st half lap joints w the DeWalt compact saw, 4 1/2" blade I think, and I have a chisel and sander... 2x4's for gate
Let me know how it goes!
Is there a standard name for the stakes / shims you used to straighten and strengthen the post? Did you just build them yourself? Do they always push the post on the opposite side that you put them into the ground?
It's a scrap piece of wood cut into a wedge shape...
I’ve found wedges to move over time such that the problem reappears. Outside guywire for the win if your setup allows.
Looks nice. Noble of you to admit the flaws and even wait to make it all public.
Definitely worth extra effort on the posts and foundations. You might consider a 2+” metal post but definitely needs to be deeper, especially with the fertile soil you have. Concrete is relatively cheap, especially compared to all you’ve put into the rest of the gate. You could even make it a trench footing (combine with the next comment) for easier digging and greater stability.
Even if the majority fence is lightweight construction, you could build a more substantial rigid section on either side of the first section to add stability.
Thanks for your note. I think a rigid section on either side is a must. These 4x4s are not meant to take that much lateral weight. I will look into metal for next time.
Metal is good, and nice in being able to put it in the ground without rotting. Even PT rots.
Do realize that the post is only as strong as the foundation. IMO, definitely worth a little extra digging to bury relatively cheap concrete.
Thank you for sharing. I want to build this style of gate for my daughter using your plan. Where the gate to be the ground is not level. Therefore, one post is about 6 in higher than the other. How can I make this look nice with out building gates that are wracked?
Since it’s just 6 inches I would just dig out the ground around the higher post if you can. Let the doors swing away from the slope.
Was the PT wood dry? I haven’t had success yet with PT wood and titebond III
It was still wet but honestly the tire bond is window dressing. All the binding is done by the fasteners and the glue just kind of seals it.
@@BuildingWithBlake thanks. Yes, I experimented with tite bond on the PT and it didn't hold at all. I then gave up, didn't use the tite bond and just drilled carriage bolts into it. Strong as anything.
Before you fitted the diagonal bracing I did not see you check diagonally for square.
Doesn’t mean he didn’t. Troll.
Is it OK to use wet pressure treated or did you use KDAT?
I used wet pressure treated
Mistake on the posts was likely the fact you didn’t tamp soil down
Keeping your other face mask where you are cutting will *probably have dust from what ever you are cutting sit inside of it.
With that said, I appreciate your hard work. ✌️
Lucky wife 😇
Lol she's funny
Shame about the shallow fence posts, but u now know for next time. Great job otherwise.
Why ruin a nice video with that awful sounding ADDED NOISE?
Nice gate. Hate the music! These types of videos doesn’t need music.
Ok
For what is worth I found the music relaxing and the audio was a good mix and I could hear you fine which is what matters.
You certainly deserve negative comments on this gate install (1) The posts are not deep enough, (2) the concrete should have only been in the hole and came above the ground surface. and the biggest mistake you made was showing this video.
Weird for an expert to watch a “simple how to” video
Dude, why you have to be a douche bag. The man was clear to point out his mistakes and did not claim to be an expert but gave a lot of good ideas. You must be a very insecure person to build yourself up by trying to tear somebody else down. In reality it just makes you look petty.
D Bag
Good job man…is it perfect? Heck no, but most importantly it’s honest and helpful for weekend warrior diy folks on a budget. May Jesus bless you!
The mistake was putting dirt in the hole before the concrete. It’s ok to have a few inches of dirt around the top.